
Booki_ - . 



THE 



FRANCO-AMERICAN 
COOKERY BOOK 



HOW TO LIVE WELL AND WISELY EVERY DAY 
IN THE YEAR 

CONTAINING OVER 2,O0O RECIPES 



FELIX J. DELIEE 

CATERER OF THE NEW YORK CLUB : EX-Ch4p OF THE UNION AND MANHATTAN CLUBS 



,/>t;-^^ 



A NEW TREATISE, CONTAINING 365 DIFFERENT BILLS OF FARE, GIVING CONCISE IN- 
STRUCTIONS HOW TO PROPERLY PREPARE AND SERVE ALL KINDS OF 
DOMESTIC AND FOREIGN CULINARY PROVISIONS IN EVERY WAY FOR 
EACH SUCCEEDING SEASON, AND MOSTLY CONVENIENT FOR 
PRIVATE FAMILIES, CLUBS, RESTAURANTS, 
HOTELS, ETC., ETC, 




G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS 

NEW YORK : 27 & 29 WEST 23D STREET 
LONDON: 25 HENRIETTA STREET, COVENT GARDEN 

18S4 



/ 






^- 



y 



COPVRIGHT BY 

P. PUTNAM'S SONS 



Press of 

'G. P. Putnatns Sons 

New York 



PREFACE. 



In presenting this work to the public, we are convinced that we 
supply a real want long felt, not only by managers and stewards of 
large establishments, but also by ladies who have the comfort of their 
> omes at heart. 

The plan differs essentially from that of most of the accepted works 

v-r cookery, the book being composed of three hundred and sixty-five 

'Ills of fare, numbered from the ist day of January to the 31st of De- 

i-mber. A complete dinner is provided for every day in the year, with 

.ncise and explicit directions for preparing it. Each bill of fare dif- 

rs almost entirely from the other, and all are arranged with a strict 

egard for the products of the season and the supplies afforded by 

«i;>irkets in American cities. 

Thus the worry and irritation of composing a pleasantly varied 
__ily menu are avoided, and the time generally occupied in looking up 
particular recipes is saved. 

Each bill of fare is calculated for eight persons, and may be reduced 
or increased at will. Not one is eccentric or expensive. Economy is 
considered invariably, and the day after large joints are served, an 
advantageous arrangement of remnants is always presented. 

Proportions are given as exactly as possible, and with care. Every 
dish may be prepared by a cook of ordinary intelligence and even lim- 
ited experience. 

The Sunday dinners are rather more elaborate than the others, with 
a different ice for each. There are, besides, six fasting dinners for the 
Lenten season, and a fasting soup for every Friday in the year, a feature 
which must especially recommend the book to religious orders. 

Particular attention has been given to the preparation of soups, fish, 
and entrees, — branches of culinary art very generally neglected in Eng- 
lish cookery books. The recipes include about fifty salads, and every 
conceivable mode of cooking vegetables. Many of the dishes given 
have been invented by the author, and successfully served by him. 
All deleterious substances such as soda, saleratus, and different kinds 
of fermentative powders have been rigidly excluded, and aromatics 
have been used more to intensify the natural flavor of ingredients than 
to impart their own. 

The author has carefully attended to the orthography of foreign 
words and terms not capable of translation into English. 

Every recipe, with the number of the menu to which it belongs, is 
to be found in the index at end of volume. 



Franco-American Cookery Book. 



No. 1. 

Monday, January i. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Risot a la Piemontaise. 

Darne of salmon a la Hollandaise. 
Boiled potatoes. 

Fillet of beef k la Moscovienne. 
Cauliflower a 1' Espagnole. 

Boned turkey with jelly. 
Celery in glass. 

Plum-pudding with rum. 

Risot a la Piemontaise. — Chop an onion, put in a stewpan with 
two ounces of butter, and fry a little without browning ; add a pint of 
Italian rice, and fry a little longer, stirring all the time ; moisten with 
a quart of broth ; boil, and let simmer for twenty minutes ; then add 
again six ounces of butter in small bits, and four ounces of grated parme- 
san cheese ; mingle well ; cover the stewpan ; let rest about ten minutes, 
to give time for the rice to absorb the butter ; pour in a hollow dish , 
sprinkle a handful of grated parmesan cheese over ; cover, and send to 
table with two quarts of strong beef broth separately in a soup-tureen. 

Darne of Salmon a la Hollandaise. — Very good, and not dear. 
Oregon salmon is coming plentifully to market. Take a middle cut of 
salmon weighing about six pounds ; put in a stewpan, with salt, white- 
wine vinegar, a handful of pepper-corns, sliced carrots and onions — two of 
each, — a highly garnished bunch of parsley [No. 327], cold water enough 
to cover the whole, and a sheet of white pepper over ; cover the stew- 
pan ; let boil slowly, and simmer gently for an hour ; drain the fish care- 
fully with a large skimmer ; dish up on a folded napkin ; surround with 
fresh parsley leaves, and serve with a sauce-bowl of melted butter. 

Boiled Potatoes. — A proper way to boil potatoes is to peel a ring 
around ; place them in a stewpan with cold water enough to cover ; 

I 



2 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

put the lid on ; boil till nearly done ; drain the water off ; cover with 
a cloth, let rest five minutes, and serve in the folds of a large napkin. 

Fillet of Beef a la Moscovienne. — Remove most of the fat, 
all the sinews, and trim neatly a nice tenderloin of beef ; with a larding- 
needle insert in the surface alternate rows of small, square shreds of 
lard, raw ham, and truffles ; put large and thin slices of fat pork over, 
tie them on ; then place the fillet in a long, narrow copper pan, with a 
pint of rhine wine, a pint of beef broth, a sliced onion and carrot, and 
a bunch of parsley ; put on the fire, and cook briskly for three quarters of 
an hour ; drain the fillet, remove the layers of pork, put in a roasting-pan 
with the surface of the gravy ; sprinkle three or four times, and roast for 
fifteen minutes longer in a moderate oven ; strain, and free the gravy 
of its fat ; reduce with a pint of espagnole sauce ; add two tablespoonfuls 
of grated horseradish, a pinch of sugar, and two ounces of butter in small 
bits ; press through a fine strainer, and keep warm. Dish up the fillet, 
garnish with alternate groups of sliced mushrooms and medium-sized 
stuffed onions [No. 303], pour the sauce over the garnishing, and serve. 

Cauliflower a 1' Espagnole. — Boil two heads of cauliflower ; part 
them in large flowerets, stir carefully and warm them thoroughly in a 
large frying-pan with a glass of sweet oil ; salt and pepper ; put in a dish, 
and give the mass the form of a dome ; fry two tablespoonfuls of 
cnopped shallots in a small saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of oil, add 
a pint of well-reduced espagnole sauce, a tablespoonful of chopped 
parsley, and the juice of a lemon ; pour over the cauliflowers, and serve. 

Boned Turkey with Jelly. — See recipe in No. 362. 

Plum-Pudding with Rum. — Prepare and cook a plum-pudding as 
directed [No. 359], (using more or less ingredients according to the 
size desired) ; turn on a dish, mask over with powdered sugar, and send 
to table ; then have half a pint of Jamaica rum poured around, a 
lighted match applied to it, and burned until nearly exhausted ; then 
serve flaming on the plates with a spoon. 



COOKERY BOOK. 

No. 2. 

Tuesday, January 2. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Cabbage i la rentiere. 

Fried frost-fish ; 
Potato croustades k la Regente. 

Beef and pork with cabbage ; 
Nouilles a 1' AUemande. 



Venison chops with fine herbs ; 
Doucette salad. 

Gelee a la Macedoine. 

Cabbage Soup ^ la Rentiere. — Put into a soup-pot two pounds 
of beef, two pounds of salt-pork, six quarts of water, very little salt, and 
set on the fire ; scum, boil an hour ; add a savoy cabbage (cored and 
quartered), a carrot, a turnip, an onion with two cloves in it, four sau- 
sages, smoked, Strasburg style, and boil slowly two hours longer ; dry 
in the oven some thin slices of french bread ; put in a soup-tureen 
add some of the cabbage, pour the broth over, and serve. 

Fried Frost-Fish. — Cleanse, draw, scale, wash, and wipe, dry 
about three pounds of frost-fish ; dip in cold milk, roll in flour, and 
fry crisp and slightly brown, with plenty of clear hot lard ; drain well, 
salt, dish up on a folded napkin, garnish with fried parsley and quar- 
tered lemons, and serve. 

Croustades of Potatoes ^ la Regente. — Cook and prepare 
potatoes as for croquettes ; divide, and roll portions the size and shape 
of an egg on a floured table ; dip in beaten eggs, and roll in pulver- 
ized crackers ; smooth the surface, dip in beaten eggs, and roll in the 
crackers once more ; flatten slightly at one end, so that they will stand 
up ; fry in clear hot fat ; drain ; cut the upper end as you would a 
soft-boiled egg ; save the cover, remove most of the inside with a tea- 
spoon, and fill with a salpicon made with small squares of lobster, 
oysters, mushrooms, and a little white sauce ; close the aperture with 
the cover, and serve on a folded napkin. 

Beef and Pork, with Cabbage. — Remove the onion and cloves 
from the soup-pot ; dish up the rest of the cabbage, the vegetables, 
and sausages with a little of the broth ; put the beef and pork atop 
and serve. 

Nouilles a 1' AUemande. — Cook a pound of nouilles, as explained 
in No. 302 ; drain, and range in a hollow dish, with alternate layers of 
grated cheese, salt, pepper, and nutmeg, giving the mass a domical 
form ; fry two handfuls of fresh bread-crumbs in eight ounces of clari- 
fied butter ; pour the whole over the nouilles ; cover, and serve. 



4 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Venison Chops with Fine Herbs. — Have eight or more well- 
trimmed and seasoned venison chops ; melt in a large sautoir two 
ounces each of butter and sweet oil ; add the chops, and brown slightly 
on a very hot fire (about eight minutes) ; take up the chops ; drain off 
three fourths of the fat ; add four tablespoonfuls of chopped shallots, 
mushrooms, and parsley ; fry two minutes ; moisten with a pint of 
espagnole sauce and half a pint of white wine ; boil five minutes, skim, 
add the juice of a lemon ; dish up the chops in a circle, with a fried 
heart-shaped crust of bread between each one ; pour the sauce in the 
centre, and serve. 

Gelee ^ la Macedoine. — Melt an ounce and a half of gelatine in 
a quart of warm water, with twelve ounces of white sugar, and the juice 
of two lemons ; mingle in a saucepan with the whites of two eggs, well 
beaten ; heat on a slow fire, stirring occasionally ; as soon as it boils, 
throw in a few drops of cold water, skim off the white froth, and strain 
through a wet napkin or a jelly-bag ; cool a little and add a pint of sher- 
ry ; place a cylindrical copper jelly-form in a pail of broken ice, pour 
in a little jelly, and, when that has set, add a layer of preserved fruit — 
such as peaches, limes, apricots, gages, quinces, raisins, or other kinds, 
and cover with more jelly ; continue till the mould is full, taking care 
that each layer of jelly is well set, and alternating with different kinds 
of fruit ; when well set (it takes about two hours), immerse the mould 
in tepid water, turn immediately on a folded napkin, and serve. The 
preserved fruits should be well dried on a cloth before putting into 
the jelly, as their moisture would otherwise prevent it from congealing. 
Use fresh fruit when in season. 



No. 3. 

Wednesday, January 3. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Puree of potatoes i la faubonne. 

Baked turban of fillets of sole ; 
Potatoes i la Braban5onne. 

Chicken cutlets a la Villeroi ; 
Stewed celery ^ 1' Espagnole. 

Roast saddle of venison ; 
Lettuce salad. 



Me'ringues a la Chantilly. 

Pur6e of Potatoes ^ la Faubonne. — Peel some potatoes and 
put them into a stewpan, with water enough to cover ; add two ounces 



COOKERY BOOK. 5 

of butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg, half a pound of raw ham, and a bunch of 
parsley ; cook to a puree, remove the ham and parsley, pass through a 
fine sieve, dilute as desired with beef-broth, and mingle with the same 
quantity of julienne soup [No. 255]; boil a few minutes, skim off the 
froth, finish with a little sugar, two ounces of butter, and a liaison made 
with the yolks of four eggs ; stir, heat well without boiling, and serve. 

Baked Turban of Fillets of Sole. — Take the fillets of three 
good-sized soles (flounders), season with salt and pepper, and spread a 
little fish force-meat [No. 12] over; fold in two, and cook in a sautoir 
with a glass of white wine, a little broth, two ounces of butter, and a 
chopped onion ; put a layer of fish force-meat half an inch thick into a 
round baking-dish ; range the fillets in a circle on the force-meat ; fill 
the interstices with more force-meat ; reduce the gravy in the sautoir 
with a pint of espagnole sauce, half a pint of chopped mushrooms, and a 
tablespoonful of chopped parsley ; pour this sauce over the fish, strew 
a handful of pulverized crackers over, add a few bits of butter, and 
bake half an hour in a moderate oven ; squeeze the juice of a lemon 
over, and serve in the baking-dish. 

Potatoes a la Braban9onne. — Prepare some rather thick-mashed 
potatoes, add one tablespoonful each of chopped and bleached shallots and 
chopped parsley, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and four ounces of grated dutch 
cheese; mingle well; put into a. hollow dish in dome form; strew a 
little grated cheese and some bread-crumbs over ; add a few small bits 
of butter atop ; bake till slightly browned in a moderate oven, and 
serve. 

Cutlets of Chicken a la Villeroi.— Cut fine the meat of a large 
cooked chicken, also some mushrooms and four ounces of cooked, red 
beef-tongue ; melt in a saucepan four ounces of butter ; add a table- 
spoonful of chopped shallots, and, after frying a little, two ounces of 
sifted flour ; mingle well and fry a minute longer ; dilute with a quart 
of chicken-broth; stir, boil, and thicken with the yolks of four eggs; add 
the juice of a lemon and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley; stir vig- 
orously, and boil three minutes longer ; pour the half of this sauce into 
a dish till wanted for future use ; put the cut chicken, mushrooms, and 
tongue into the saucepan with the rest of the sauce ; stir and boil 
another minute, pour into a dish and cool, strew fine bread-crumbs on 
the table ; divide the preparation in eight or more parts of the size and 
shape of a thick mutton chop, roll them in the sauce (kept warm for 
the purpose) ; cool again ; besprinkle with crumbs ; immerse in beaten 
eggs, and roll in bread-crumbs again ; smooth nicely with a knife-blade, 
and fry slightly brown in plenty of hot lard ; drain on a cloth, dish up 



6 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

in a circle on a folded napkin with some fried parsley in the centre, and 
serve with a bowl of tomato sauce. 

Roast Saddle of Venison. — Procure a medium-sized saddle of 
venison ; trim, wash inside, and wipe dry ; pare and lard the large fillets 
(if desired), shorten and fold the flap over the small ones, truss firmly, 
and roast medium for about an hour and a quarter ; untie, dish up, add 
a ladleful of thick gravy and a glass of port wine to the drippings, 
skim the fat, strain over the saddle, and serve with currant jelly in a 
glass dish. 

Meringues a la Chantilly. — Prepare some meringue as ex- 
plained in No. 337 ; make two large paper funnels, with a three-quarter- 
inch hole at the point, and secured at top with a pin ; nearly fill these 
with the meringue, and close the large end by folding the paper ; then 
gently press the meringue out of the small end, in balls the size and 
shape of a large egg, about an inch apart, on thick sheets of white paper ; 
besprinkle with fine sugar ; place the paper on wet oak boards ; put in 
a slow oven, and cook about twenty minutes, till slightly browned ; 
remove the shells from the paper, press down the inside gently with the 
thumb, put in baking-pans, and place in a very slack oven to dry for 
two hours ; when ready to serve, fill the shells with cream beaten to a 
froth, sweetened and flavored with vanilla sugar ; put on a folded 
napkin, and serve. These shells can be kept in a dry place for a 
few days. 



No. 4. 

Thursday, January 4. — Bill of fare for eight persons 

Soup : Brunoise, with rice. 

Boiled cod, flemish sauce ; 
Potatoes a la HoUandaise. 



Sirloin steaks a la Napolitaine ; 
Baked macaroni. 



Roast chickens a 1' Allemande ; 
Beet and cabbage salad. 

Dariole cakes with almonds. 

Brunoise Soup with Rice. — Prepare three quarts of brunoise 
soup [No. 259], add a pint of rice cooked in broth, and serve. 

Boiled Cod, Flemish Sauce. — Boil a fresh cod in salted water 
acidulated with vinegar ; drain, dish up on a folded napkin, surround 
with fresh parsley leaves, and serve with the following sauce in a sauce- 
bowl. 



7 COOKERY BOOK. y 

Flemish Sauce. — Knead an ounce of butter with a half ounce of 
flour, dilute with half a pint of boiling water, stir to a boil ; put in two 
egg-yolks ; mingle well without boiling ; add pepper, grated nutmeg, 
four tablespoonfuls of prepared mustard, a little vinegar and chopped 
parsley ; then gradually incorporate half a pound of melted butter, and 
serve. 

Potatoes a la Hollandaise. — Peel and boil a dozen large mealy 
potatoes ; drain, and put them into a vegetable dish ; melt (but do not 
boil) four ounces of butter ; add salt, white pepper, grated nutmeg, and 
the juice of a lemon ; pour over the potatoes, and serve. 

Sirloin Steaks a la Napolitaine. — Beat slightly with a cleaver 
four or more large, tender sirloin steaks, and place them in a dish with 
salt, pepper, the juice of a lemon, and a glass of sweet oil for two hours, 
turning occasionally ; half an hour before serving, melt in a sautoir 
four ounces of butter, with another glass of sweet oil ; add the steaks, 
fry briskly on both sides until cooked to taste ; drain them on a plate, 
remove the fat from the sautoir, and put into it a pint of espagnole 
sauce, a glass of port wine, two tablespoonfuls of currant jelly, and a 
little broth ; boil five minutes, press through a napkin ; add a pint of 
sultana raisins previously soaked in boiling water, and leave it a few 
minutes longer ; dish up the steaks, pour the sauce over, and serve. 

Roast Chicken a 1' Allemande. — Procure two large, dry-picked 
tender chickens ; singe, draw, remove the lights, wash the inside, and 
wipe dry ; stuff with german stuffing [No. 344], tie both ends, truss 
nicely, cover the breast with bardes of fat pork, and roast to a nice 
color for about fifty minutes ; untruss, and dish up the chickens ; add 
a little broth to the drippings ; pour over ; garnish with a handful of 
water-cress, and serve. 

Beet and Cabbage Salad.— Cut in fine shreds the white leaves 
of a savoy cabbage ; peel and slice four cooked red beets ; put the 
whole in a basin with salt, pepper, and a glass of vinegar for an hour ; 
then drain, mingle well, transfer into a salad-bowl, add four tablespoon- 
fuls of sweet oil ; mingle again, and serve. An onion chopped fine 
greatly improves this salad. 

Dariole Cakes with Almonds. — Line eight or more slightly but- 
tered small dariole (timbale) moulds with a thin layer of short paste 
[No. 351], and put a small bit of butter in the bottom of each one ; 
break into a small saucepan two eggs, with four ounces of sugar, four 
ounces of flour, a teaspoonful of orange-flower water, and four ounces 
of blanched almonds pounded fine with an ounce of sugar and screened 
by rubbing through a wire sieve ; mingle well ; dilute with a pint of 



8 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

cold milk, and fill the moulds with this preparation ; place on a baking- 
sheet, and cook in a moderate oven for about half an hour ; take from 
the moulds, cool, and serve on a folded napkin. 



No. 5. 

Friday, January 5. — Bill of fare for eight persons :• 
Soup : A la Bagralion. 

Perch a la Venitienne ; 
Potatoes a la viliageoise. 

Leg of mutton a la Durand ; 
Stewed celery, with gravy. 

Chicken saute a la Hongroise ; 
Lettuce and beet salad. 

Apple fritters, hard sauce. 

Soup ^ la Bagration. — Prepare three quarts of fish-broth [No. 
327] ; add the liquor of two dozen of small, cooked oysters ; thicken with. 
a white roux made of three ounces each of butter and flour ; boil half 
an hour ; skim, press through a napkin into another saucepan, and fin- 
ish with a liaison of four yolks of eggs, the juice of a lemon, four ounces 
of butter, and half a pint of cream ; stir and mingle well without boiling, 
and keep warm. Prepare two dozen quenelles, made of fish force-meat 
[No. 12], and the meat from the claws and the tail of a lobster, sliced ; 
warm and put these in a tureen with the oysters, pour the soup over, 
and serve with a plate of small, round, thin slices of bread fried in 
butter. 

Perch a la Venitienne. — Cleanse and trim eight good-sized white 
perch ; wash, wipe dry, and put in a sautoir with salt, pepper, chopped 
parsley, four ounces of butter, half a pint of white wine, and a loosely 
tied bunch of parsley ; cover, boil, and simmer gently for half an hour ; 
drain the fish, remove the parsley, add a pint of white broth, thicken 
with an ounce of butter kneaded with an ounce of flour, and boil ; fin- 
ish with the yolks of three eggs, three ounces of butter, the juice of a 
lemon, and two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley ; mingle well with- 
out boiling ; dish up the fish, pour the sauce over, and serve. 

Potatoes a la Viliageoise. — Peel and chop fine some cold boiled 
potatoes ; put them in a saucepan with salt, four ounces of butter, and 
a pint of cream ; set on a slow fire ; stir till it boils, and then let sim- 
mer gently for ten minutes ; mingle well with a wooden spoon, and 
serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. g 

Leg of Mutton a la Durand. — Remove the bones to the knuckle 
from a large mature leg of mutton, lard the inside with well-seasoned 
shreds of fat pork, tie firmly in the original shape, and place in a brai- 
siere (oval copper stewpan) with four ounces of butter ; fry brown all 
round ; drain off the fat ; add a bunch of parsley, a carrot, and an onion 
sliced, a clove of garlic, a few pepper-corns, a quart of broth, two ladle- 
fuls of canned tomatoes, and two glasses of sherry wine ; boil, cover, 
and let simmer gently for three hours ; when done drain the mutton, 
skim off the fat, and strain the gravy through a fine sieve ; reduce with 
a pint of espagnole sauce, and keep warm. 

Prepare a garnishing a la Durand as follows : A cooked beef palate 
cut in squares, a veal sweetbread cut thin, a dozen large heads of 
mushrooms, a dozen stoned and bleached Spanish olives, and a few 
large slices of truffles ; mix and warm these with a glass of sherry ; pare 
and dish up the mutton, ornament the knuckle-bone with a fanciful 
paper cuff, surround with the garnishing, pour the sauce over, and 
serve. 

Chicken Saute a la Hongroise. — Take two fat, tender chickens ; 
divide as for fricassee ; season with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg ; 
range in a sautoir (flat saucepan) with four ounces of melted butter ; 
cover and fry slowly on both sides till slightly browned ; drain most of 
the fat off ; besprinkle with an ounce of flour ; mingle well, dilute with 
a gill of white wine and a pint of boiled milk ; cover, and boil slowly 
for fifteen minutes longer ; finish with chopped parsley, lemon juice, 
and two ounces of butter ; dish up the chicken, pour the sauce over, 
and serve. 

Apple Fritters, Hard Sauce. — Peel and core six large apples, 
cut transversely in thick slices ; put in an earthen basin with fine sugar 
and a glass of brandy, and steep for half an hour. Make a smooth, 
light batter, with half a pound of sifted flour, cold water, and the yolks 
of three eggs ; beat the whites to a froth and mingle carefully with the 
batter ; have ready plenty of hot lard in a large deep frying-pan ; dip 
the apples slice by slice in the batter, and fry crisp and slightly brown 
in the lard ; drain on a cloth, dish up on a folded napkin, besprinkle 
with fine sugar, and serve with the following sauce : 

Hard Sauce. — Mingle in a bowl and beat well two ounces of 
butter with four ounces of fine sugar, a glass of cognac brandy, and a 
pinch of ground cinnamon ; divide into saucers, and serve with the 
fritters. 



10 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 6. 

Saturday, January 6. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Leek a la Picarde. 

Eels a la Bordelaise ; 
Potatoes a la Lyonnaise. 

Pork chops, sauce Robert ; 
White beans a la maitre d' hotel. 

Roast turkey, giblet sauce ; 
Celery, sauce Mayonnaise. 

Charlotte Russe. 

Leek a la Picarde. — Cut the white part of six large leeks in 
shreds an inch long, put in a stevvpan with three ounces of butter, and 
fry long enough to evaporate the moisture ; add three quarts of beef- 
broth and six raw potatoes, sliced ; boil half an hour ; put some thin 
sippets of french bread in a soup-tureen, pour the soup over, and 
serve. 

Hels a la Bordelaise. — Skin and trim two very large eels, cut in 
four-inch lengths, split open, remove the spine, and cook in a stewpan 
with enough white wine and water (in equal parts) to cover the fish, 
salt, pepper, a sliced onion, a clove of garlic, and a bunch of parsley ; 
when done, drain the fish and place it between two tin sheets, with a 
light weight atop ; strain the gravy, thicken it with two ounces of flour 
and two of butter, and boil fifteen minutes ; skim, finish with two table- 
spoonfuls of chopped and bleached shallots, chopped parsley, two 
ounces of butter, and the juice of a lemon ; mingle well, pour some of 
this sauce in a dish ; arrange the fish in a circle, fill the centre with 
small glazed onions, pour the rest of the sauce over all, and serve. 

Potatoes a la Lyonnaise. — Peel and slice small cold boiled 
potatoes (the smaller are best, as they are not so liable to break) ; put 
into a large frying-pan four ounces of butter, with two white onions 
sliced fine ; fry till they are softened ; add the potatoes, salt, and pepper 
and fry a light brown, stirring occasionally ; drain off the butter, strew 
a handful of chopped parsley over the potatoes, mingle well, and serve. 

Pork Chops, Sauce Robert. — Cut and pare eight pork chops, 
flatten slightly, add salt and pepper, dip in melted butter, roll in fresh 
bread-crumbs, place on a gridiron, and broil slowly and thoroughly on 
a moderate fire ; dish up in a circle, pour a Robert sauce [No. 355] in 
the centre, ornament the edge of the dish with fanciful cuts of gherkins, 
and serve. 

White Beans a la Maitre d' Hotel. — Wash and soak over- 
night a quart of white beans ; drain, put in three quarts of cold rain- 



COOKERY BOOK. „ 

water, and set on a slow fire ; boil, skim, add salt, a bunch of parsley, a 
carrot, an onion with three cloves in it, and two ounces of butter ; cook 
gently for about an hour ; remove the parsley, onion, and carrot ; drain 
off the water ; put in four ounces of butter, chopped parsley, and a little 
more salt and pepper ; let the butter melt, mingle well by tossing the 
saucepan ; pour into a deep-dish, and serve. 

Roast Turkey, Glblet Sauce. — Select a large, tender, dry- 
picked turkey-hen ; singe, draw, and truss nicely, cover the breast with 
a barde of fat salt pork, and roast about an hour and a quarter ; untie, 
dish up, pour the drippings over, and serve with giblet sauce in a 
sauce-bowl. 

Giblet Sauce. — Boil until done, in a pint of broth, the heart and 
gizzard of the turkey ; boil also the liver in fat for five minutes ; drain, 
and slice the whole ; slightly thicken the broth with flour and butter ; 
boil ten minutes, skim, add the sliced giblet, season to taste, and send 
with the roasted turkey. 

Charlotte Russe. — Line a two-quart charlotte-mould with lady- 
fingers, and prepare a cream as follows : boil a pint of cream, put in a 
vanilla bean cut in pieces, take off the fire, cover and let infuse an 
hour ; break eight egg-yolks in a vessel with ten ounces of sugar, mingle 
well, dilute with the cream ; stir on the fire, until it thickens ; add an 
ounce and a half of gelatine, previously steeped in cold water, and well 
drained ; stir until well dissolved, and pass through a strainer ; stir 
again on ice until it begins to congeal ; mingle with about a quart of 
well-whipt cream [No. 77] ; fill the mould, cover with more lady-fingers 
or the parings, put on ice, let cool thoroughly, invert on a folded 
napkin, and serve. 



No. 7. 

Sunday, January 7. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Consomme a la Bourdaloue. 

Salmon steaks, tartar sauce ; 
Potatoes a la Navarraise. 

Loin of veal a la jardiniere ; 
Onions glaces a 1' Espagnole. 

Salmi of grouse au chasseur ; 
Chicory and beet salad. 

Biscuit glace a la vanille. 

Consomm6 ^ la Bourdaloue. — Prepare three quarts of chicken 

broth [No. 310]; make eight small timbales with half a pint of rice 



12 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

boiled in a pint of broth, adding the yolks of six eggs and a ladleful of 
allemande sauce reddened with a little orchanet butter ; then cook in 
a sautoir filled to half their height with boiling water ; cut in squares 
some breast-meat saved from a previously cooked chicken; put in a soup- 
tureen with a pint of warm, well-drained french peas, and pour the 
broth over ; turn the timbales into a deep dish, add a little broth, and 
serve one with each plate of soup. 

Salmon Steaks, Tartar Sauce. — Steep, for an hour or so, in a 
hollow dish, four middle-cut, good-sized salmon steaks, with a glass of 
sweet oil, salt, pepper, and the juice of a lemon ; about half an hour be- 
fore serving, broil them light brown over a charcoal fire ; dish up ; gar- 
nish with two quartered lemons, and serve with a bowl of tartar sauce 
[No. 83]. 

Potatoes a la Navarraise. — Peel some large potatoes and cut 
them in half-inch squares ; fry thoroughly to a yellow color in sweet oil ; 
drain on a cloth, sprinkle fine salt over, dish up on a folded napkin, and 
serve. 

Loin of Veal a la Jardiniere. — Select a fat loin of veal with kid- 
ney attached ; saw off the spine, remove the superfluous fat, fold the 
flap over the kidney, and truss firmly ; put in a fiat saucepan with sliced 
onions and carrots, a bunch of parsley with aromatics, a pint of white 
broth, a little salt, and small bits of butter on top ; cover with a thick 
buttered paper and set to boil ; then put in a moderately heated oven, and 
cook slowly for two hours, taking care to sprinkle occasionally with the 
gravy and glazing of a bright brown color ; drain the veal, add a little 
broth to the saucepan, boil a minute, skim the fat, strain, and reduce to a 
demi-glaze with a ladleful of espagnole sauce ; untruss and dish up the 
veal ; surround with a garnishing a la jardiniere, pour the reduced 
gravy over, and serve. 

Garnishing a la Jardiniere. — With a small vegetable-scoop or a 
small fourth-of-an-inch tin tube cut sufficient carrots and turnips, cook 
them with a little salted water, sugar, and butter ; reduce the liquid to a 
glaze, add some well-drained green peas and string-beans cut in short 
pieces, white pepper, grated nutmeg, two ladlefuls of espagnole sauce, 
two ounces of butter in small bits, and mix well. When convenient 
always improve this garnishing with groups of seasonable vegetables, 
such as flowerets of cauliflowers, brussels sprouts, mushrooms, small 
stuffed tomatoes, etc. 

Onions Glaces a 1' Espagnole.— [No. 338.] 

Salmi of Grouse au Chasseur. — Roast three grouse ; divide ; 
pare and dress them nicely on three large slices of toasted bread ; garnish 



COOKERY BOOK. 13 

with heart-shaped crusts of bread fried in butter, pour a chasseur sauce 
over, and serve. 

Chasseur Sauce. — Put in a saucepan two tablespoonfuls of chop- 
ped shallots, with two ounces of butter ; fry a little, add half a pint of 
tomato and a pint of espagnole sauce, and a few mushrooms sliced fine ; 
boil ten minutes, skim ; finish with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, 
the juice of a lemon, a pinch of red pepper, and two ounces of butter 
in small bits. 

Biscuit Glace a la Vanille (proportions for two quarts). — Make 
a pint and a half of thick syrup with about twenty ounces of loaf-sugar 
and a vanilla bean ; boil to the density of thirty-four degrees (pese- 
syrup) ; break sixteen egg-yolks in a basin ; beat a little ; dilute with 
the strained syrup ; stir vigorously with an egg-beater on a slow fire 
until the mixture thickens ; remove immediately, and stir again on ice, 
until cold, light, and frothy ; mix with a quart of well-whipt cream, pour 
in a large or in a number of small paper cases nicely made ; besprinkle 
with powdered sponge-cake, to give a biscuit appearance ; range in the 
freezing-box ; bury the box in salted ice, and let freeze two hours ; serve 
on a folded napkin. 



No. 8. 

Monday, January 8. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Garbure with cabbage. 

Stewed lobster au court-bouillon ; 
Boiled rice a la Creole. 

Boned calf's head, sauce ravigote; 

Broiled sweet potatoes. ' 

Venison steaks with olives ; 
Chicory salad. 

Peaches with rice. 
Garbure with Cabbage. — Cut a large savoy cabbage in quarters; 
remove the core and green leaves ; parboil five minutes in boiling 
water ; cool in cold water, and press the water out ; place thin layers of 
fat pork in a stewpan ; add the cabbage, a little pepper, a carrot, an 
onion with three cloves in it, a bunch of parsley, two leeks and a head of 
celery tied together, a half-pound piece of raw ham, and more slices of 
fat pork on top ; moisten with broth, and cook slowly for two hours. 
Meanwhile boil in another stewpan a half pound of sliced french 
bread with some beef-broth, and make a panada the consistency of 
thick batter ; drain the cabbage in a colander ; have a buttered earthen 



14 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

soup-dish at hand, and besprinkle it with grated gruyere cheese ; put 
in it a layer of cabbage, a little more cheese, then a layer of bread 
panada; besprinkle with cheese again ; add another layer of cabbage, 
and so on until the whole is used, finishing with cabbage and a thick 
layer of cheese atop ; place in a moderate oven, bake slowly for half an 
hour, and serve with three quarts of beef-broth in a separate soup- 
tureen. 

Stewed Lobster au Court-bouillon. — Boil in salted water, for 
twenty minutes, two good-sized lobsters ; crack and part each claw in 
three pieces ; split the tails, remove the intestines, and cut each lobster 
into six or eight pieces, letting the meat adhere to the shell ; save all 
the coral and creamy parts from the body ; melt four ounces of butter 
in a large saucepan, with two tablespoonfuls of chopped shallots ; fry 
a little, add the creamy and coral parts, a pint of veloute sauce, a 
bunch of parsley, salt, white and red pepper, the lobster, a gill of white 
wine, a little broth, a handful of parsley leaves, two ounces of butter ; 
cover, boil, and let simmer gently for half an hour ; remove the bunch of 
parsley, dish up the lobster in a pyramidal form with a skimmer ; reduce 
the sauce to the desired consistency ; add the juice of a lemon ; pour 
over the lobster, and serve. 

Rice a la Creole. — Boil a pint of rice in two quarts of water, with 
a little salt ; when nearly done, drain in a colander, cover with a thick 
cloth for ten minutes so that the rice may absorb the moisture ; turn 
up on a dish with a fork, and serve. 

Boned Calf's Head, Sauce Ravigote. — Select a good-sized 
and well-scalded white calf's head ; singe any remaining hairs ; remove 
the bare bones without injuring the skin ; remove also the centre of the 
ears with a small tin tube ; fill with well-seasoned, cooked, veal force- 
meat [No. 314], giving the head its original appearance ; cover it all 
over with thin slices of peeled lemon and bardes of fat pork ; roll in a 
large, strong, coarse cloth ; fasten both ends firmly ; put in a large 
stewpan with plenty of light broth and water, salt, pepper-corns, 
onions, carrots, parsley, and aromatics ; let boil slowly und steadily for 
about three hours ; remove the pan from the fire and let rest awhile ; a 
few moments before serving, drain the head, take off the cloth, put in a 
large dish, place the brain on one end, and the tongue split open on the 
other (these ought to have been cooked separately), and serve with a 
ravigote sauce [No. 256] in a sauce-bowl. 

Broiled Sweet Potatoes. — Boil, let cool, and peel some sweet 
potatoes ; slit them in twos, dip in melted butter, put in a double grid- 
iron, broil a light brown on both sides ; dish up, and serve with ver}- 
little melted butter over. 



COOKERY BOOK. 15 

Venison Steaks with Olives. — Procure four venison steaks 
weighing about twelve ounces each ; flatten, pare a little, season with 
salt and pepper, baste with oil, and broil rare over a brisk charcoal fire; 
stone and parboil three dozen olives, drain, and put them in a pint of 
madeira sauce [No. 270]; dish up the steaks, pour the sauce and olives 
over, and serve. 

Chicory Salad. — [No. 359.] 

Peaches with Rice. — Cook the rice, prepare, dress, and serve as 
explained for pears with rice [No. 272], using canned peaches instead 
of pears. 



No. 9. 

Tuesday, January 9. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Bisque of partridge i la Dauphine. 

Stewed black bass k rAmericaine ; 
Baked potatoes. 

Rabbits in paper a 1' Italienne ; 
Stewed beets. 



Roast fillet of veal ; 
Lettuce salad i la Sotteville. 

Gelee a 1' anisette. 

Bisque of Partridge ^ la Dauphine. — Roast two partridges 
and take all the meat from the bones ; roast, shell, and boil two dozen 
of large chestnuts in a quart of broth ; boil half a pound of white bread 
in another quart of broth ; chop fine the partridge meat, and pound it 
in a mortar ; add the chestnuts and pound again, then add the bread 
and pound a few minutes longer ; rub through a fine sieve, and add 
more broth if required ; put back in the stewpan with two glasses 
of port wine ; stir and heat well without boiling ; season to taste ; 
add two ounces of butter, mingle well, and serve with square-shaped 
crolitons, fried in butter. The bones of the partridges should be boiled 
in the broth to flavor and strengthen it. 

Stewed Black Bass a 1' Americaine. — Place three or four 
good-sized bass in a large buttered sautoir, with salt, white and red 
pepper, two chopped onions, half a pint of catawba wine, half a pint of 
canned tomatoes, a pint of espagnole sauce, and a bunch of parsley ; 
cover and cook gently for about forty minutes ; drain the fish, remove 
the parsley, and reduce the sauce to the desired consistency ; finish with 
chopped parsley, two ounces of butter, and the juice of a lemon ; pour 
over the fish, and serve. 



i6 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Baked Potatoes. — Select a dozen large, mealy potatoes ; wash 
well, and bake in a moderate oven until well done ; roll up in a napkin, 
and serve very hot with small pats of the best table butter. 

Rabbits in Paper a 1' Italienne. — Skin, paunch, and bone two 
rabbits ; quarter, and flatten slightly with the cleaver ; season with salt 
and pepper, and fry in a sautoir, with four ounces of melted butter, for 
about five minutes, just long enough to stiffen the meat ; press between 
two tin sheets, placing about five pounds weight on top, and let cool ; 
add two tablespoonfuls of chopped shallots and a pint of chopped 
mushrooms to the butter in the sautoir, and fry a little ; dilute with 
a quart of espagnole sauce, and boil ten minutes longer ; finish with the 
juice of a lemon and chopped parsley ; pare the pieces of rabbit, 
roll them in the sauce, and let cool a little ; meanwhile cut in heart- 
shape, as many large thick sheets of note-paper as there are pieces of 
rabbit, oil and spread them on the table, put a thin slice of fat pork on 
each side of the paper with the pieces of rabbit on the right side ; fold 
the paper over, and with the thumb and forefinger of the right hand 
twist the paper over in very close, tight folds ; repeat this operation for 
every piece of rabbit ; fifteen minutes before serving, place the whole in 
a large fiat baking-pan and brown slightly in a moderate oven (about 
fifteen minutes) ; dish up in a circle, and serve with a bowl of italian 
sauce. 

Stewed Beets. — Boil some red beets, peel, quarter, and put them 
in a saucepan, with salt, pepper, four ounces of butter, a little broth, 
and a few drops of vinegar ; let the butter melt, and mingle well by 
tossing the saucepan ; serve in a covered vegetable-dish. 

Roast Fillet of Veal. — Procure a thick, round fat piece of leg of 
veal, weighing about eight pounds ; truss firmly, and roast for about an 
hour and a half in a well-tinned copper pan, with salt, small bits of 
butter atop, a pint of water around, and a buttered paper over, tak- 
ing care to baste often with the liquid ; drain, untruss, and dish up 
the veal ; add a little broth and a ladleful of espagnole sauce to the 
drippings ; skim the fat, reduce to a demi-glaze sauce, strain over the 
veal, and serve. 

Lettuce Salad ^ la Sotteville. — [No. 358]. 

Gelee ^ 1' Anisette. — Clarify three pints of sweet jelly as directed 
[No. 2] ; cool partially, add a gill of anisette cordial, mingle care- 
fully with a silver spoon, unless it turns dim ; pour in a cylindrical 
jelly-mould ; let set thoroughly on ice, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. i; 

No. 10. 

Wednesday January lo. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Puree of turnips h. Y Espagnole. 

Boiled haddock, white sauce ; 
Boiled potatoes, with melted butter. 

Mutton chops, with small onions ; 
Baked spaghetti. 

Roast capon ; 
Lettuce salad. 

Baba au rhum. 

Puree of Turnips ^ 1' Espagnole. — Pare, wash, and quarter 
some white turnips ; put them in a stewpan with three quarts of veal 
broth, four ounces of butter, a pint of well-washed rice, salt, white 
pepper, and a little sugar ; stir till it boils, then let simmer gently for 
an hour ; rub through a fine sieve, put back in the stewpan, and heat 
well without boiling, stirring continually ; finish with four ounces of 
butter in small bits, pour into a soup-tureen, and serve with small 
square crusts of bread, fried in butter, placed either in the soup or 
separately on a plate. 

Boiled Haddock. — Cleanse and wash well a large fresh haddock ; 
put on the grate in a fish-kettle, with salt, half a pint of vinegar, a bunch 
of parsley, cold water enough to cover, and a sheet of white paper atop ; 
boil, set on one side, and let cook slowly for half an hour ; when ready 
to serve, drain the fish, and slide it on a folded napkin ; surround with 
parsley, and serve with a white sauce. 

White Sauce. — Knead in a saucepan two ounces of butter with 
an ounce of flour ; add salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; dilute with a pint of 
boiling water ; stir with a wire-whip, and boil a minute ; press through 
a napkin, add four ounces of butter and the juice of a lemon, and serve 
in a sauce-bowl. 

Boiled Potatoes, with Melted Butter. — Boil a number of me- 
dium-sized potatoes in their jackets; drain, peel, put in a vegetable-dish; 
add salt, white pepper, and four ounces of melted (not boiled) butter ; 
cover, and serve. 

Mutton Chops Braised, with Small Onions. — Cut, pare, and 
flatten slightly eight or more large mutton chops ; with a larding-needle 
insert across the lean part small square cuts of raw ham and fat pork in 
equal proportion ; put the chops in a stewpan with their parings, a sliced 
carrot, a head of celery, an onion with three cloves in it, and a bunch of 
parsley ; moisten with two quarts of white broth, boil, cover, and cook 
slowly for about two hours ; when done, drain the chops, place them 



i8 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

between two tin sheets, put a light weight on, and let cool ; meanwhile 
strain and free the gravy of its fat, and reduce to the consistency of a 
demi-glaze with a ladleful of espagnole sauce ; pare the chops neatly, 
range them in a sautoir, pour the reduced gravy over, and let simmer a 
few minutes ; dish up the chops in a circle, with heart-shaped crusts of 
bread between them ; fill the centre with small white onions cooked in 
broth ; pour the gravy over the chops, and serve. 

Baked Spaghetti.— [No. 358.] 

Roast Capon. — Trust an honest dealer for the choice of a fat, 
plump, and tender capon, weighing about ten pounds ; singe, draw 
carefully, remove the lights, wash inside, and wipe dry ; truss nicely, 
salt inside, cover the breast with a barde of fat pork ; put on the spit or 
in a roasting-oven, and roast an hour ; salt a little ; untie and dish up 
the capon ; add a little broth to the drippings, skim the fat, strain over 
the capon, and serve. 

Lettuce Salad. — [No. 274.] 

Baba au Rhum. — Make a light dough as explained for gateau 
savarin [No. 330] ; prepare a baba-mould (that is, a rather wide cylin- 
drical copper form, holding about two quarts), butter it with cold butter, 
strew a few picked and soaked malaga raisins in the bottom, scattering 
a few through the dough likewise ; pour the preparation into the mould, 
let rise, cook, and then immerse in a warm rum syrup, and serve as 
directed for savarin cake. 



No. 11. 

Thursday, January 11. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : A la bourgeoise. 

Broiled herrings, cream sauce ; 
Boiled and browned potatoes. 

Pork and beans ; 
Stewed carrots au veloute'. 



Ribs of beef a la Matignon ; 
Vegetable salad. 

Puddingha (Grecian Pudding). 

Soup ^ la Bourgeoise. — Prepare a french pot-au-feu [No 287] ; 
cut and dry thin slices of french bread, put them in a soup-tureen, add 
sliced carrots and turnips from the soup-pot, also the leeks cut in short 
pieces ; pour three quarts of beef broth over, cover for five minutes to 
give time to the bread to get well soaked, and serve. 

Broiled Herrings, Cream Sauce. — Scale, draw, remove the 



COOKERY BOOK. 19 

fins, wash, and wipe dry a dozen fresh herrings ; make small incisions 
on both sides ; leave for one hour in a dish with salt, pepper, lemon- 
juice, and a glass of oil, turning occasionally in the seasoning ; place in 
a double gridiron ; broil quickly and well ; dish up and serve with a 
cream sauce. 

Cream Sauce. — Put in a saucepan two ounces of butter well 
kneaded with an ounce of flour ; add salt, white pepper, and a pint of 
cream ; stir continually while heating ; boil, remove from the fire, and 
add a teaspoonful of chopped and bleached parsley and a few drops of 
vinegar ; mingle well, and serve in a large sauce-bowl. 

Potatoes Boiled and Browned in Butter. — Boil some small 
potatoes, cool, peel, and fry them whole in clarified butter until lightly 
browned ; drain, put in a vegetable-dish, besprinkle with chopped 
parsley, and serve. 

To Clarify Butter. — Put the desired quantity of butter into a 
saucepan, heat and boil slowly ; remove to one side, skim, and strain 
through a fine cloth ; then the butter is ready for use. 

Pork and Beans. — (We give this recipe for the benefit of foreign 
residents who are not used to american cookery) : Wash well and soak 
overnight, in cold water, a quart of white beans ; put into a stewpan 
with a gallon of cold water, boil, add salt, pepper, a carrot, an onion 
with three cloves in it, a bunch of parsley and a four-pound piece of 
streaky salt pork, previously soaked for two hours in tepid water ; boil the 
whole slowly for about two hours ; drain the pork and remove the onion, 
carrot, and parsley ; strain off the superfluous liquid from the beans 
and pour them into a large hollow earthen baking-dish v,'ith two table- 
spoonfuls of molasses over ; then with a sharp knife make transverse 
incisions on the fatty side of the pork, place on the beans in the centre 
of the dish, and bake one hour in a moderate oven, sprinkling the meat 
occasionally with the gravy from the beans ; serve in the baking-dish. 

Stewed Carrots au Veloute. — Peel and slice fine about eight 
good-sized carrots ; put them in a stewpan with a pint of veal broth, a 
pint of water, two ounces of butter, salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg ; 
boil an hour ; thicken with an ounce of butter kneaded with half an 
ounce of flour ; mix well and boil ; finish with three ounces of butter, a 
teaspoonful of sugar, and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley ; mix by 
tossing the saucepan till the butter is melted ; serve in a covered 
vegetable-dish. 

Ribs of Beef a la Matignon. — Procure a thick two-rib piece of 
fat beef, saw off the spine, cut the ribs short, and truss firmly ; slice 
fine some carrot and onion, put in a saucepan with four ounces of 



20 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

butter, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, and sprays of parsley ; stir on the 
fire until the moisture is evaporated, drain the butter off, moisten with 
a glass of sherry, salt a little, and reduce to a glaze ; place the beef on 
a double-sheet of thick buttered paper, pour the preparation over, in- 
wrap the whole, put on the spit or on a wire grate in a deep roasting- 
pan, and roast one hour and a half ; unwrap, pare, and dish up the 
beef ; make a rich, slightly thickened gravy with the drippings and the 
vegetables ; skim well, strain, pour a little over the beef, and serve the 
rest in a sauce-bowl. 

Vegetable Salad. — [No. 91.] 

Puddingha. — Cut a dozen large slices of stale bread about three 
quarters of an inch thick and across the loaf ; pare off the crust ; put 
the bread in a fiat tin pan with sufficient cold milk to cover ; soak for 
two hours, drain on a wire gridiron for fifteen minutes, and fry light- 
brown in a sautoir, with plenty of clarified butter (the bread ought to be 
soft inside) ; drain on a cloth and place in a flat tin pan ; then make a 
thick syrup with a pound of honey and a pound of white sugar, flavored 
with a stick of cinnamon bark ; pour this over the bread and keep 
warm ; when ready to serve, place the bread in a flat dish and pour the 
syrup over. 



No. 12. 

Friday, January 12. — Bill of fare for eight persons: 

Soup : Puree of onions 4 la Dieppoise. 

Croquettes of oysters ; 
Potatoes sautees. 



Chicken saute a la Demidoff ; 
Stewed celery a 1' Italienne. 

Roast leg of mutton au chasseur ; 
White-bean salad. 

Pain de pommes au kirsch. 

Puree of Onions a la Dieppoise. — Peel and slice a dozen large 
white onions ; parboil five minutes ; cool and drain well ; melt in a 
stewpan four ounces of butter ; add the onions, salt, white pepper, 
and nutmeg ; boil and let simmer gently for an hour ; besprinkle 
with three ounces of flour, mingle well, dilute with two quarts of fish 
broth [No. 323] and a quart of boiled cream ; set on the fire, stir 
continually, and boil ten minutes ; press through a fine sieve, return 
the residue to the stewpan, heat well without boiling, and finish with 
a teaspoonful of sugar and two ounces of butter ; pour into a soup- 
tureen, add a pint of fish quenelles, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 21 

Fish Force-Meat for Quenelles, etc. (proportion for a pound 
of fish) : Make a bread panada as follows : Soak half a pound of 
stale white bread in cold water for ten minutes, press the water out, put 
into a saucepan with four ounces of butter, set on the fire, stir con- 
tinually with a wooden spoon until it no longer sticks to the sauce- 
pan ; add the yolks of six eggs, mix well, and cook two minutes 
longer ; put in a plate, cover with oiled paper, and let cool ; chop 
fine a pound of either bass or pike, raw ; pound this to a pulp and 
rub it through a fine wire sieve with a wooden presser ; then put 
the fish and the panada in a mortar, pound and mix well, add twelve 
ounces of butter previously kept on ice, pound again and mix thoroughly ; 
season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; then stir into the mixture eight 
eggs and eight egg-yolks singly, with half a pint of bechamel sauce ; 
transfer to a basin and keep on ice till wanted ; then with a teaspoon 
put small quantities on a floured table ; with the palm of the hand roll 
them the shape of a Spanish olive and drop them into boiling salted 
water to simmer five minutes ; then drain on a hair sieve. 

Croquettes of Oysters. — Put in a stewpan two quarts of oysters 
with a little broth, pepper, ground mace, and two ounces of butter ; 
boil two minutes, drain on a sieve ; let cool a little and save the 
liquor ; then slice (not chop) the oysters ; make a white roux with 
two ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of chopped shallots, and an 
ounce of flour ; dilute with half a pint of the oyster liquor, stir, and 
boil five minutes ; add four egg-yolks, a little red pepper, the sliced 
oysters, and chopped parsley ; stir constantly and boil three minutes 
longer ; squeeze in the juice of a lemon and turn into a basin to 
cool ; spread pulverized crackers on the table, divide the preparation 
into pieces the size of an egg, roll in the crackers, and with the blade 
of a long knife give them a rectangular shape, making them an inch 
thick ; dip in beaten eggs, roll in the crackers again, and fry light 
brown in plenty of clear hot lard ; dish up on a folded napkin ; 
garnish with fried parsley and quartered lemons and serve. 

Potatoes Sautees. — [No. 25.] 

Chicken Saute a la Demidofif. — Singe, draw, and cut up two 
tender chickens ; put them in a sautoir with two ounces of butter, 
and two of sweet oil, salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; fry brown on both 
sides ; drain off the fat, put in two glasses of sherry wine, two ladle- 
fuls of broth, a pint of espagnole sauce, and a bunch of parsley ; 
cover, and let simmer gently for half an hour ; meanwhile wash well 
and boil in a saucepan a pint and a half of rice with a quart of 
white broth for twenty minutes, add two ounces of butter and four 



22 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

ounces of lean cooked ham cut in small squares ; fill a large, round, 
well-buttered, plain border-mould with this rice, press gently, and keep 
warm ; at serving time turn into a round dish and put the chickens 
in the centre in pyramidal shape ; add lemon-juice and a pat of butter 
to the sauce, pour over the chicken, and serve. 

Stewed Celery d 1' Italienne. — Remove the green stalks, pare, 
and wash well a dozen heads of celery ; parboil, cool, drain, and cook in 
a sautoir, with salt, pepper, a pint of broth, and a layer of fat pork ; 
cover, and simmer gently for an hour ; drain well on a cloth, and serve 
with an Italian sauce. 

Roast Leg of Mutton au Chasseur. — Select and roast a leg of 
mutton as directed [No. 346] ; and serve with a highly-seasoned 
chasseur sauce [No. 7], in a sauce-bowl. 

White-Bean Salad.— [No. 102.] 

Pain de Pommes au Kirsch. — Prepare as directed [No. 331] ; 
but substitute a kirschwasser sauce [No. 353] for the cream a la 
chantilly. 



No. 13. 

Saturday, January 13. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Brunoise with puree of lentils. 

White-fish, sauce diplomate ; 
Hashed potatoes a la mailre d' hotel. 

Stewed rabbit a la poulette ; 
Baked cauliflowers a la Bechamel. 



Porter-house steaks, sauce Colbert ; 
Doucette and chicory salad. 

French custard with lemon. 

Brunoise with Puree of Lentils. — Mingle two quarts of brunoise 
[No. 259] soup with a quart of puree of lentils [No. 345] ; boil five 
minutes, skim and serve. 

Boiled White-fish. — Boil a large white-fish, with a bunch of pars- 
ley and a quartered onion, in salted water highly acidulated with white- 
wine vinegar ; when done, drain the fish, dish it up on a folded napkin, 
garnish with parsley, and serve with the following sauce : 

Diplomate Sauce. — Put in a saucepan a pint of bechamel sauce, 
with two ounces of butter reddened with coral of lobster or with an 
infusion of orchanet ; beat well with a wire-whip till the mixture gets 
frothy ; add two tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovies, two ounces 
more of butter in small bits, and a pinch of cayenne pepper ; beat again, 
and serve in a sauce-bowl. 



COOKERY BOOK. 23 

Hashed Potatoes a la Maitre d' Hotel. — Peel and chop fine 
a number of cold, boiled potatoes ; put into a saucepan v/ith salt, pepper, 
a little nutmeg, an ounce of butter, and about a pint of water ; stir, boil 
slowly for about five minutes, and finish with four ounces of butter in 
small bits and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley ; mix well with a 
wooden spoon, and serve. 

Stewed Rabbit a la Poulette. — Skin, paunch, wash well, and 
cut up two rabbits ; soak in warm water for an hour, and set on the fire, 
with sufficient fresh water to cover ; add salt, white pepper, and nutmeg ; 
while boiling, skim well ; boil five minutes and strain in a large colander, 
saving the broth ; cool, wash, and trim the rabbits ; then melt in a 
saucepan four ounces of butter ; add the rabbits and fry on a brisk fire 
for five minutes, without allowing to brown ; besprinkle with an ounce 
and a half of sifted flour ; mix well with a wooden spoon, and move 
aside ; dilute gradually and carefully with two glasses of white wine 
and the strained broth from the rabbits ; stir till it boils ; add a bunch 
of parsley and an onion with two cloves in it ; cover and let simmer 
gently for about forty minutes ; remove the onion and parsley ; skim off 
the fat, and finish with a liaison of four yolks of eggs, two ounces of 
butter in small bits, the juice of a lemon, and a tablespoonful of chopped 
parsley ; mingle well by gently tossing the saucepan ; boil no more ; 
serve in a pyramidal form with heart-shaped crotitons around the base. 

Baked Cauliflower a la Bechamel,— Cook two heads of cauli- 
flowers in salted water, with a little butter ; drain well on a cloth ; then 
prepare in a saucepan a very stiff bechamel sauce ; add salt, white 
pepper, grated nutmeg, and the yolks of four eggs ; stir constantly and 
vigorously, and boil three minutes ; besprinkle a buttered vegetable 
baking-dish with white bread-crumbs, place the cauliflowers in the 
centre, give the mass a dome form, and pour the prepared sauce over, 
securing a thick coating of sauce by lifting it over the cauliflowers two 
or three times with a knife-blade ; add more bread-crumbs, put a few 
small bits of butter atop, and bake for half an hour in a moderate oven, 
till slightly browned. 

Porter-house Steaks, Colbert Sauce. — Pare, season, and broil 
rare two large porter-house steaks and serve with a colbert sauce [No. 
272] over. 

Doucette and Chicory Salad. 

French Custard with Lemon. — Prepare a dish of custard as 
explained for custard au cafe vierge [No. 306], substituting an infusion 
of lemon-peel for the coffee infusion. 



24 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 14. 

Sunday, January 14. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Consomme aux profiteroles. 

Red snapper a la Beaufort' 
Potatoes soufflees. 

Boiled chickens a la Venitienne; 
Oyster-plant a 1' Espagnole. 

Roast fillet of beef a I'Anglaise ; 
Celery, remoulade sauce. 

Parfait au cafe. 

Consomme aux Profiteroles. — Cut open and remove the inside 
of four french rolls ; fill them with game force-meat ; baste them over 
with beef extract, and bake slightly in a buttered sautoir, for ten min- 
utes, in a moderate oven ; place them in a soup-tureen, pour three quarts 
of consomme [No. 133] over, and serve immediately — otherwise the 
bread will soak to a puree. 

Red Snapper a la Beaufort. — Choose a fresh, good-sized red 
snapper (one of the best fish from the Gulf of Mexico, and very common 
in this market at this time of the year) ; cleanse and wash well, being 
careful to remove the blood-vessel from along the spine ; place on the 
grate in a fish-kettle (a grate is a term for a big-holed, perforated sheet 
placed on the bottom of a fish-kettle), with a garnishing of vegetables 
and aromatics, salt, a pint of white wine, a pint of white broth, and a pint 
of water ; put a buttered paper over ; boil, remove to one side, and let 
simmer gently for an hour ; drain the fish, remove the skin from the upper 
side, mask with some meat-extract, and besprinkle with chopped coral 
of lobster ; slide the fish on a dish, and garnish with groups of colloped 
lobster, heads of mushrooms, and small oysters ; strain the gravy, 
thicken it with two ounces of flour kneaded in butter ; finish with the 
yolks of four eggs, the juice of a lemon, a pinch of red pepper, and four 
ounces of butter ; press through a napkin ; add reddened butter enough 
to give a pink tint, pour over the garnishing, and serve. 

Potatoes Soufflees. — [No. 323.] 

Boiled Chickens a la Venitienne. — Singe, draw, and truss nicely 
two tender chickens ; boil with a garnishing of vegetables, a bunch of 
parsley, salt, aromatics, and enough light broth to cover ; when done, 
drain and keep warm ; strain and free the broth of its grease, thicken it 
with two ounces of flour cooked in two ounces of butter ; add a liaison 
of three yolks of eggs ; press through a napkin, and finish with a little 
tarragon vinegar and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley ; dish up the 
chickens, surround with a border of raviolis [No, 324], pour the sauce 
over, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 25 

Stewed Oyster-Plant a 1' Espagnole.— Cook some oyster-plant 
in salted water, whitened with a little flour, and acidulated with a glass 
of vinegar ; when done, drain on a cloth and cut in three- inch lengths ; 
put into a saucepan with half a pint of espagnole sauce, pepper, and 
nutmeg ; let simmer a few minutes add two ounces of butter in small 
bits, and some chopped parsley ; mingle well by tossing the saucepan, 
and serve. 

Roast Fillet of Beef a I'Anglaise. — Remove the fat and the 
sinews from a thick fillet of beef ; pare and lard as explained [No 275], 
and place in an earthen dish, with sliced carrots and onions, a sprig of 
thyme, two bay-leaves, salt, a pinch of pepper, lemon juice, and a glass 
of sweet oil ; steep the fillet for about three hours, turning occasionally, 
so that it may absorb the flavor of the vegetables and aromatics ; an 
hour before dinner roast the fillet in the ordinary way, drain, pare, and 
place in a large dish, garnishing with small, scooped-round potatoes 
fried in butter ; glaze, and serve with a well-reduced madeira sauce. 

Celery, Remoulade Sauce. — [No. 85]. 

Parfait au Cafe (ingredients for two quarts). — Infuse twelve ounces 
of freshly roasted coffee (not ground) in a pint of syrup at 34 degrees 
(pese syrop) ; add eight egg yolks ; set on the fire and stir till mixture 
thickens ; strain immediately into a basin, and stir on ice while cooling ; 
add a quart of raw cream beaten to a froth, and put into a domical 
mould ; cover hermetically, and place in a pail of salted ice for two 
hours ; then immerse in tepid water, turn on a napkin, and serve. 



No 15. 

Monday, January 15. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Mutton-broth French style. 

Stewed eel a la mariniere ; 
Baked mashed potatoes. 

Mutton chops with puree of beans ; 
Stewed parsnips. 

Roast larded grouse, game sauce ; 
Water-cress salad. 

Suedoise of apples. 

Mutton-Broth, French Style. — Take a mature and not too fat 

fore-quarter of mutton ; pare, and save the chops for an entree ; bone 
the shoulder, roll, and tie it with strings, and pare the breast ; put the 
whole (excepting the chops) — that is, the shoulder, breast, neck, bones, 
and parings — in a soup-pot with two pounds of soup-beef, tv/o gallons 



26 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

of water, salt, pepper-corns, a bunch of parsley, two carrots, two turnips, 
an onion with four cloves in it, two leeks and a head of celery ; set on 
the fire, skim well, and boil slowly ; two hours after, remove the breast 
and shoulder and keep them for further use ; then let boil for two hours 
longer ; free the broth of its grease, strain througli a wet napkin, and 
color with a little caramel ; cut thin sippets of french bread, put in a 
soup-tureen with a pint of cooked barley, pour the boiling broth over, 
and serve. 

Stewed Eel a la Mariniere. — Skin, cleanse, pare, and cut in 
four-inch lengths two large eels (the small ones have no taste); put in a 
stewpan with salt, pepper, three bruised cloves of garlic, a bunch of 
parsley, an onion with three cloves in it, and white wine and water in 
equal parts sufficient to cover the fish ; cover the stewpan, set on the 
fire, boil slowly, and let simmer for twenty minutes ; drain the fish into 
another saucepan, strain and thicken the gravy with two ounces of flour 
browned in two ounces of butter ; set on the fire, stir, and let boil for 
fifteen minutes ; skim ; finish with two tablespoonfuls of essence of an- 
chovies, two ounces of butter in small bits, the juice of a lemon, and a 
tablespoonful of chopped parsley ; mingle well without boiling ; add 
two dozen of small glazed onions and a pint of cooked scallops ; dish 
up the fish in a pyramidal form ; pour the sauce and garnishing over ; 
surround the base with eight large fried oysters, and serve. 

Baked Mashed Potatoes. — Boil in salted water some peeled 
irish potatoes ; drain ; put in a pan with four ounces of butter, salt, 
and white pepper ; pound thoroughly with a potato-masher ; add a gill 
of boiled milk ; press through a colander ; mingle well ; put up in dome 
form in a hollow baking-dish ; spread beaten eggs on the surface with a 
paste-brush ; bake a light brown for twenty minutes in a moderate oven, 
and serve. 

Mutton Chops with Puree of Beans. — Pare, season, oil, and 
broil rare eight or more chops (these saved from the soup); pour some 
puree of beans in an entree-dish, dish up in a circle, and alternate each 
chop with a heart-shaped slice of bread fried in butter ; pour more 
puree in the centre, and serve. 

Puree of Beans. — Cook a quart of white beans [No. 47] ; press 
through a sieve or a colander ; add four ounces of butter, salt, pepper, 
and a little of the broth from the beans ; mingle well, and serve as 
directed above. 

Stewed Parsnips. — Boil some parsnips in salted water with a 
little butter ; drain on a cloth ; cut up in pieces ; put in a saucepan 
with two ladlefuls of white sauce, salt, and pepper ; boil slowly for five 



COOKERY BOOK. 



27 



■minutes ; finish with four ounces of butter in small bits ; mingle well, 
and serve. 

Roast Larded Grouse, Game Sauce. — Pick, singe, draw, and 
dress three grouse ; stiffen the breast before a brisk fire and lard it ; 
roast them rather rare ; dish them on dry toast, and serve with a game 
sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Game Sauce. — Put the drippings and some game bones and 
parings in a saucepan with a pint of espagnole sauce, a pint of broth, 
two glasses of port wine, two shallots, a bay-leaf and a sprig of thyme ; 
boil slowly for half an hour, skim the fat, strain, and reduce to the de- 
sired consistency. 

Water-cress Salad. — [No. 2,2,-^ 

Suedoise of Apples. — Take eight firm cooking apples ; pare, 
coi'^, cut in halves, trim a little, and rub them with lemon juice to retain 
the whiteness ; cook them in syrup, drain on a hair sieve ; then proceed 
and serve as directed [No. 194] for peaches. 



No. 16. 

Tuesday, January 16. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Beef a I'Anglaise. 

Baked oysters in shells ; 
Stewed potatoes. 

Rump of beef a la Portugaise ; 
Fried cauliflowers a la Lucquoise. 

Broiled rabbits, sauce ravigote ; 
Egg and lettuce salad. 

Gelee aux raisins de Malaga. 

Beef Soup ^ I'Anglaise. — Cut a pound of lean beef in small 
squares, put in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, fry five minutes on 
a quick fire, wet with a quart of broth, cover, and boil slowly for an 
hour ; skim off the fat, and placing a wet napkin upon another stew- 
pan, with a colander over that, pour the beef and broth into the colan- 
der ; strain the broth through the napkin, wash the meat carefully to 
remove every bit of scum adhering to it, and return to the stewpan with 
the broth ; then cut in squares two carrots, one turnip, one onion, and 
a head of celery ; put into a stewpan with three ounces of butter, fry 
till the moisture is evaporated, drain off the butter, and add these 
vegetables to the beef, with a bunch of parsley and two leeks tied to- 
gether, and more beef broth ; boil slowly an hour longer, skim well, re- 
move the parsley, and serve, with more broth if necessary. 



28 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Baked Oysters in the Shells. — Boil two quarts of oysters with 
their liquor, a little white broth, and a piece of butter ; drain the oys- 
ters on a cloth, and strain the liquor through a fine sieve ; thicken suf- 
ficient liquor with an ounce of flour kneaded with an ounce of butter ; 
stir, and boil five minutes ; finish with the yolks of four eggs, a little salt, 
white and red pepper, and grated nutmeg ; boil a few minutes longer, 
stirring all the while ; take from the fire, add the oysters and the juice 
of a lemon, and mingle well with the sauce. Have ready eight or more 
large, deep, well-shaped oyster-shells, slightly buttered, fill these with 
the prepared oysters, sprinkle pulverized crackers over, put a bit of 
butter on top of each one, range in a baking-pan, and brown slightly in 
a pretty hot oven (about ten minutes) ; dish up on a folded napkin, and 
serve with quartered lemons on a separate plate. 

Stewed Potatoes.— [No. 8i.] 

Rump of Beef a la Portugaise. — Prepare and cook a piece of 
beef as directed [No. 345] ; drain and pare the beef ; strain the gravy, 
free it of fat, and reduce with espagnole sauce ; return it and the beef 
to the stewpan, and keep warm. Meanwhile, prepare the following 
garnishing : 

Stuffed artichoke bottoms. — Drain and wipe dry eight or more 
artichoke bottoms (which may be procured in small tin pans from any 
well-supplied grocery store) ; put into a saucepan two ounces of fat 
pork scraped or chopped fine, two ounces of sweet oil, and two table- 
spoonfuls of chopped shallots ; fry a little, add a pint of chopped mush- 
rooms, one ladleful of tomato and one of espagnole sauce, salt, pepper, 
and nutmeg ; stir and reduce till it becomes very stiff ; add a table- 
spoonful of chopped parsley and -the juice of a lemon ; turn into a 
basin, and, when cooled, fill the artichoke bottoms with it ; sprinkle 
fine bread-crumbs mingled with grated parmesan cheese over, and then 
a few drops of oil ; put them on a baking-sheet in a hot oven and bake 
about ten minutes, till slightly browned. Dish up the beef, surrounded 
with the artichokes, alternated with glazed Portuguese onions ; pour 
some of the sauce over the beef, and serve with the rest in a sauce- 
bowl. 

Fried Cauliflowers ^ la Lucquoise. — [No. 304.] 

Broiled Rabbit, Sauce Ravigote. — Skin two or more young 
rabbits ; draw, pare, wash well, and wipe dry ; split them open, crack 
the bones, and flatten slightly with a cleaver ; add salt and pepper, dip 
in melted butter, sprinkle a few fresh bread-crumbs all over, and broil 
slowly in a double gridiron over charcoal embers ; when done, serve 
with a ravigote sauce [No. 256], either in the same dish or in a sauce- 
bowl. 



COOKERY BOOK. 29 

Egg and Lettuce Salad. — Season the lettuce with a plain dress- 
ing and quartered hard-boiled eggs. 

Geiee aux Raisins de Malaga. — Pick and seed half a pound of 
prime malaga raisins ; clarify three pints of sherry-wine jelly, as directed 
[No. 2] ; imbed a jelly-mould in ice, pour a fourth of an inch of jelly 
into it, let congeal ; add symmetrically a layer of raisins, cover with 
jelly half an inch thick ; let congeal again, and so on, until the mould 
is filled ; let set thoroughly, and serve. 



No. 17. 

Wednesday, January 17. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Puree of carrots. 

Soft clams fried in crumbs ; 
Lyonnaise potatoes. 

Beef tongue i la Flamande ; 
Fried parsnips. 

Tenderloins of pork, sauce piquante ; 
Onion and white-bean salad. 

Gateau feuillete. 

Puree of Carrots. — Slice fine the outer part of a dozen large car- 
rots ; put into a saucepan with four ounces of butter, a pint of water, 
salt, white pepper, and a little sugar ; cover, and let simmer very gently 
for an hour ; add a pound of white of bread soaked in cold water and 
well pressed, then two quarts of white broth, and boil slowly for an 
hour longer ; rub the puree through a fine sieve, add more broth if 
necessary, heat well without boiling ; finish with two ounces of butter ; 
mingle well, pour into a soup-tureen, and serve with small croutons 
fried in butter. 

Soft Clams Fried in Crumbs. — Open, pare, and remove the hard 
muscle from three dozen soft clams ; wipe dry, salt, and pepper them ; roll 
in flour, dip in beaten eggs, and then roll in pulverized crackers ; brown 
slightly in a large frying-pan with plenty of hot lard ; dish up on a folded 
napkin ; garnish with fried parsley and quartered lemons, and serve. 

Lyonnaise Potatoes. — [No. 6.] 

Beef Tongue a la Flamande. — Soak a fresh beef tongue for two 
hours in warm water ; wash well, and parboil for fifteen minutes ; scrape 
off the horny skin, wash again, and pare well ; with a larding-needle 
insert across the tongue long, well-seasoned squares of fat salt pork ; 
put into a saucepan with slices of pork, a sliced carrot, an onion with 
three cloves in it, a bunch of parsley, and a head of celery ; wet with a 



30 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

quart of broth and two ladlefuls of canned tomatoes ; cover, boil, and 
let simmer gently three hours ; drain the tongue and transfer it to an- 
other saucepan ; free the gravy of its fat and strain it through a fine 
sieve, reduce it to the consistency of an ordinary sauce with a pint of 
thick brown gravy ; skim, press through a napkin over the tongue, and 
keep warm. 

Garniture a la Flamande. — With a large vegetable-scoop cut 
out a quantity of the outer part of some carrots and turnips ; cook sep- 
arately in a small saucepan with water, salt, pepper, butter, and a little 
sugar ; reduce to a glaze ; cook also a savoy-cabbage in fat broth, 
and warm some peas and string-beans, either preserved or fresh ; split 
the tongue lengthwise, and placing some of the cabbage in a large oval 
dish, put the tongue thereon ; surround with alternate groups of carrots, 
peas, turnips, beans, and cabbage ; pour the sauce over all, and serve. 

Fried Parsnips. — [No. 321.] 

Tenderloins of Pork, Sauce Piquante. — Remove the fat and 
sinews from eight or more pork tenderloins (minion fillets), split length- 
wise, and pare ; salt, pepper, and steep for an hour in a dish, with the 
juice of a lemon and a glass of oil ; sprinkle a few fresh bread-crumbs 
over and broil slowly till well done on a slow charcoal fire ; pour into a 
dish some piquante sauce [No. 351] ; dish up the tenderloins, ornament 
the edge of the dish with fanciful cuts of gherkins, and serve with more 
sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Onion and White-Bean Salad. — [No. 102] with the addition of 
a little chopped onion. 

Gateau Feuillete. — Prepare a feuilletage paste [No. 278] ; flatten 
it to the thickness of half an inch ; cut in the centre of it a round chan- 
nelled piece, using for the purpose a plate or pasteboard about ten 
inches in diameter, turn over and place it on a baking-sheet, egg the 
surface, and with the point of a knife make a few incisions crosswise ; 
bake forty minutes in a moderately heated oven ; when done, sprinkle 
powdered sugar over, and glaze by exposing the cake to a very hot fire 
long enough to melt the sugar, but without coloring or burning it. 



COOKERY BOOK. 31 

No. 18. 

Thursday, January 18. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Agnolotti a la Piemontaise. 

Salted cod with cream ; 
Mashed potatoes. 

Leg of mutton with rissoles ; 
Boiled Turnips. 

Fillets of venison, sauce poivrade ; 
Vegetable salad. 

Pear tarts a la Franfaise. 

Agnolotti ^ la Piemontaise. — Chop an onion, put in a sauce- 
pan with two ounces of butter, fry a little ; add four tablespoonfuls of 
thick gravy, half a pound of chopped braised beef, salt, white and a 
pinch of red pepper, and a handful of grated parmesan cheese ; mingle 
well, turn into a plate, and let cool ; make a pound of nouille paste 
[No, 302], divide in two parts, roll them as thin as possible (about the 
sixteenth of an inch) on a floured table ; with a teaspoon spread the 
above preparation in straight rows, two inches apart, on one of the flats ; 
wet the paste between the rows, then lay the second flat over the gar- 
nished one ; press down the upper paste gently between the rows to join 
to the under one ; then, with a pastry-wheel, part all the agnolottis in 
squares, range them on tin sheets, cover with a napkin, and, a little 
while before serving, cook them in slightly salted simmering water for 
ten minutes ; drain, range by alternate layers in a deep soup-dish with 
grated parmesan cheese, pour a little of frying-hot clarified butter over, 
and serve with two quarts of strong consomme [No. 133] in a soup-tureen. 

Salted Cod with Cream. — Cut up four pounds of thick dry cod ; 
soak for twenty-four hours in cold water, taking care to change this 
three or four times ; cook in very hot water for about twenty minutes, 
without allowing the water to boil, as that would make the meat stringy ; 
drain, remove all the bones and the skin, and cut up fine ; melt in a 
saucepan two ounces of butter, with an ounce and a half of flour ; dilute 
with a quart of cream, add white pepper and nutmeg, and stir till it 
boils ; add the cod and a little salt, if necessary ; let simmer slowly for 
ten minutes ; finish with finely chopped parsley and four ounces of 
butter in small bits ; mingle well by tossing the saucepan, and serve. 

Mashed Potatoes. — Cook and mash some potatoes [No. 15] ; add 
a little more milk, and serve plain. 

Leg of Mutton with Rissoles. — Choose a mature leg of mutton ; 
take out the hip-bone, season, and tie firmly with strings ; put into a 
braisiere (oval stewpan), with two ounces of butter, and fry ten minutes, 



32 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

till the meat is slightly browned all around ; drain off the butter, wet 
with a pint of broth, half a pint of white wine, and a pint of canned 
tomatoes ; add a sliced carrot, an onion with three cloves in it, a bunch 
of parsley, a head of celery, a few pepper-corns, and two bruised cloves 
of garlic ; cover and let simmer slowly three hours ; when done, drain 
the mutton, remove the grease, strain and reduce the gravy with some 
espagnole sauce ; dish up the mutton, surround with a garniture of 
rissoles [No. 286], pour some of the sauce over the mutton, and serve 
with the rest in a sauce-bowl. 

Boiled Turnips. — [No. 278.] 

Fillets of Venison, Sauce Poivrade. — Have eight or more small 
steaks of venison, and flatten them slightly with a cleaver ; pare nicely, 
and lard with small oblong shreds of salt fat pork ; put into an earthen- 
dish, with salt, pepper, an onion, and a carrot sliced very fine, two bay- 
leaves, two sprigs of thyme, a glass of oil, and two glasses of vinegar, 
and let steep in this marinade for six hours, turning occasionally, that 
the fillets may become well impregnated with the seasoning ; twenty 
minutes before serving, drain them on a cloth ; melt four ounces of lard 
iw. a large sautoir, add the fillets, fry briskly on both sides ; drain, dish 
up in a circle, the larded side uppermost, alternately with heart-shaped 
slices of bread fried in butter ; make a poivrade sauce [No. 314], with 
the vegetables, spices, etc., from the earthen-dish ; pour it in the centre, 
and serve. 

Vegetable Salad.— [No. 91.] 

Pear Tarts a la Frangaise. — Make a pound of tart-paste [No. 
181] ; butter eight or more round ring-like tin moulds, about four inches 
in diameter, and line with a thin layer of paste ; fill partially with some 
thick apple-sauce, and cook in a moderate oven for twenty minutes ; 
add canned pears, either whole, split, or sliced ; baste with a paste-brush 
dipped in beaten white of eggs ; sprinkle powdered sugar over, and bake 
again till of a light-brown color. When fresh pears are used, they should 
be previously stewed in a light syrup. 



COOKERY BOOK. 33 



No. 19. 

Friday, January 19. — Bill of fare for eight persons: 
Soup : Fillets of perch a I'Anglaise. 

Striped bass a la Victoria ; 
Potatoes a la Duchesse. 



Rabbits sautes with fine herbs ; 
Omelette a la Macedoine. 

Roast loin of beef, Madeira sauce ; 
Lettuce salad, sauce Mayonnaise. 

Chartreuse of apples. 

Fillets of Perch a I'Anglaise (English water souchet).— Take 

the fillets of four large, very fresh, and well-cleaned perch ; remove 
the skin, pare neatly, and put in a very clean and well-tinned stewpan, 
with a handful of picked parsley-leaves ; put in the larder and keep till 
wanted. Meanwhile prepare three quarts of fish broth [No. 327] with 
the trimmings of the perch and the head of a cod or some other fish ; a 
few moments before serving, strain the boiling fish broth over the pre- 
pared fillets of perch, add two handfuls of parsley-roots cut in fine 
shreds and cooked separately ; boil the whole three minutes, skim, 
pour into a soup-tureen, and serve with small buttered slices of fresh 
brown bread on separate plates. 

Striped Bass a la Victoria. — Select a very fresh striped bass, 
weighing about six pounds ; when well cleaned and wiped dry, fill the 
inside with a fish force-meat [No. 12], sew up the aperture, and place 
the fish on the grate in a fish-kettle ; add salt, pepper, a sliced onion, a 
loosely tied bunch of parsley, and put a few small bits of butter on the 
fish ; moisten with a pint of white wine and a pint of light white 
broth ; put a buttered paper over, cover the kettle, boil slowly, and let 
simmer gently at the side of the fire, or in a moderate oven for an 
hour ; drain the fish, strain the gravy, and make with it a joinville sauce 
[No. 283] ; slide the fish into a large oval dish, surround with small 
cutlets of lobster a la Victoria [No. 317] ; pour enough of the sauce on 
the fish to mask it, sprinkle a handful of chopped coral of lobster over, 
and serve with the rest of the sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Potatoes a la Duchesse.— [No. 258.] 

Rabbits Sautes with Fine Herbs. — Skin, paunch, wash well, 
and wipe dry two rabbits ; cut in pieces and put into a sautoir with four 
ounces of butter ; fry briskly for five minutes ; add chopped shallots, 
parsley, and mushrooms, and fry five minutes longer ; besprinkle with 
an ounce of flour, mingle well, and moisten with two glasses of white 
wine and a pint of white broth ; add salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and 



34 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

a bunch of parsley ; boil half an hour, remove the parsley, and finish 
with the juice of a lemon and two ounces of butter in small bits ; 
mingle well by tossing the sautoir, dish up, garnish with heart- 
shaped slices of bread fried in butter, and serve. 

Omelette a la Macedoine. — Prepare a garnishing a laMacedoine 
[No. 352], composed of carrots, turnips, peas, string-beans, cauliflowers, 
etc. ; season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a little sugar, and heat well 
with two ounces of butter, and very little white sauce ; make an 
ordinary plain ten-egg omelet, spread it in the frying-pan, place the 
Macedoine inside, roll the omelet carefully over it, turn into an oval dish, 
and serve. 

Roast Loin of Beef, Madeira Sauce. — Prepare and roast a 
loin of beef as directed [No. 308], and serve with a rich and not too 
thick madeira sauce [No. 270] in a sauce-bowl. 

Lettuce Salad, Sauce Mayonnaise. — [No. 254.] 

Chartreuse of Apples. — Peel two dozen large cooking apples, 
and witli a small tin tube cut out the desired quantity of pieces ; cook 
these separately as follows : One third in a syrup infused with saffron, 
another in a syrup tinctured with cochineal, and the other in a 
plain syrup acidulated with lemon juice ; drain them all ; prepare 
also small sticks of angelica the size and shape of the apples ; 
wet a large, plain charlotte-mould, cover the inside with white paper, 
line it with rows of apples of the different colors, and with the angelica, 
one row placed upon the other, so as to make an elegant design ; fill the 
inside with a very thick apple marmalade made from the residue 
of the apples, turn into a dish, and let stand awhile ; take off the mould, 
remove the paper, and serve cold. 



No. 20. 

Saturday, January 20. — Bill of fare for eight persons ; 
Soup : Puree a la Colbert. 

Boiled salmon, soy sauce ; 
Quenelles of potatoes. 

Noix of beef a la bourgeoise ; 
Croquettes de nouilles. 

Broiled red-head ducks ; 
Celery and beet salad. 

Scotch marmalade fritters. 

Puree a la Colbert. — Take off the green leaves and parboil six 
stalks of chicory, for five minutes ; drain, cool, press the water out, 



COOKERY BOOK. 



35 



chop fine, and put in a stewpan with four ounces of butter ; fry a little, 
cover, and cook half an hour ; besprinkle with two ounces of sifted 
flour, mingle well, dilute with three quarts of light veal or chicken 
broth, add a little salt, white pepper, and nutmeg ; stir, boil five min- 
utes, rub through a very fine sieve, stir, and boil again ; finish with a 
liaison of three yolks of eggs, a pint of cream, and two ounces of but- 
ter in small bits ; mingle well on the fire without boiling, add eight eggs 
poached soft in salted and acidulated water, and serve. 

Boiled Salmon, Soy Sauce. — Cook a six-pound piece of salmon 
in a quart of water and white wine in equal parts, with two ounces 
of butter, salt, pepper, a bunch of parsley, an onion with two cloves in 
it, and two cloves of garlic ; put a sheet of buttered paper over ; cover, 
heat slowly, and let simmer gently at the side of the fire for forty-five 
minutes ; drain, slide on a folded napkin laid on a dish, surround ^vith 
green parsley-leaves, and serve with a soy sauce. 

Soy Sauce. — Make a white sauce with a pint of liquid from the 
fish, thicken with the yolks of four eggs, press through a napkin, add 
the juice of a lemon, three tablespoonfuls of soy sauce, and four ounces 
of butter in small bits ; mingle well, and serve in a sauce-bowl. Soy 
sauce is an old Indian product made with purple-wrinkled morels, 
galangal roots, and spices, and is very appropriate for boiled fish. 

Quenelles of Potatoes. — [No. 306.] 

Noix of Beef a la Bourgeoise. — Procure an eight-pound piece 
of noix of beef, with all the fat on one side ; with a large larding-needle 
insert across the lean part a dozen good-sized oblong shreds of fat 
pork ; put into a stewpan with four ounces of lard, and fry very briskly 
for ten minutes, turning two or three times ; drain off the lard, wet with 
a quart of broth, a pint of tomato sauce, and two wineglassfuls of 
brandy ; add a bunch of parsley, cover, and boil slowly for an hour ; 
then add four carrots cut in quarters and trimmed, and a dozen middle- 
sized onions previously browned in butter ; let simmer gently two 
hours longer ; drain the beef, dish up, and garnish with the carrots and 
onions ; remove the parsley, free the gravy of its fat, reduce to the 
desired consistency, pour over the meat and vegetables, and serve. 
This is a cheap, very substantial, healthy, and easily made dish. 

Croquettes of Nouilles. — Prepare and divide some nouille-paste 
[No. 302], and cook it ; drain, put in a large saucepan, with two ladle- 
fuls of allemande sauce, salt, pepper, nutmeg, three handfuls of grated 
parmesan cheese, and four egg-yolks ; mingle well, stir, and boil three 
minutes ; turn into a large, flat, buttered dish-pan, and when this is 
cold, turn it over on a table sprinkled with cracker-dust ; cut in rect- 



36 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

angles about an inch thick, two and a half wide, and four long; dip in 
beaten eggs, roll in pulverized crackers, and fry till lightly colored ; 
drain on a cloth, and serve on a folded napkin. This is a very suitable 
dish to accompany beef braised in winter-time, when green vegetables 
are scarce. 

Broiled Red-head Ducks. — Procure two fresh and fat red-head 
ducks ; pick, singe, draw, and slit by the back ; crack the main bones, 
flatten with the cleaver : pare a little, season with salt and pepper, 
baste with oil, broil rather rare over a bright charcoal fire, and dish up 
on dry toast ; melt two ounces of maitre d' hotel sauce [No. 276] with 
a little gravy, pour over the ducks, and serve with currant jelly in a 
glass dish. 

Celery and Beet Salad. — Add sliced boiled beets to a plain- 
dressed celery salad. 

Scotch Marmalade Fritters. — Spread a fourth of an inch thick 
of orange marmalade on two-inch round cuts of wafer-bread ; lay simi- 
lar cuts over, press gently with the hand and smooth the edges ; dip in 
a flour batter (first adding to the batter some whites of eggs beaten to a 
froth), and fry till slightly browned ; range on a flat baking-pan, 
sprinkle powdered sugar over, and glaze of a bright color in a very hot 
oven. 

No. 21. 

Sunday, January 21. — Bill of fare for eight persons: 

Consomme a la Cussy. 

Boiled halibut, fleurette sauce ; 
Sliced potatoes with cream. 

Stewed chicken a la Pondichery ; 
Lima beans a 1' Espagnole. 

Fillets of mutton, currant-jelly sauce J 
Plain celery in glass. 

Charlotte plombieres. 

Consomme ^ la Cussy. — Prepare three quarts of game broth 
[No. 329] ; make eight small timbales with ten egg-yolks, two eggs, a 
pint of puree of game, and a little cream ; cook these in a sautoir with 
boiling water to half their height ; cut in fine shreds two handfuls each 
of cooked game-meat and mushrooms, and boil in broth two dozen 
shelled chestnuts ; pour the broth in a soup-tureen ; add the chestnuts, 
mushrooms, and game-meat, and serve with the timbales turned into a 
hollow dish, in which there is a little broth. 

Boiled Halibut. — Boil a four-pound piece of halibut in salted water 



COOKERY BOOK. 37 

acidulated with a glass of previously boiled white-wine vinegar (raw 
vinegar always gives a dark tint to fish) ; remove to one side, and let 
simmer gently for forty minutes ; drain well, slide on a folded napkin, 
garnish with parsley, and serve. 

Fleurette Sauce (fleurette is the first skimming of milk, is very 
sweet, and boils easily). — Knead in a saucepan three ounces of butter 
with an ounce of flour, a little salt, and pepper ; dilute with a pint and 
a half of fleurette, stir on the fire, boil a minute, and serve. 

Sliced Potatoes with Cream. — Peel and slice small cold boiled 
potatoes ; put in a saucepan with salt, pepper, and a pint of cream, and 
boil five minutes ; add four ounces of butter in small bits ; toss the 
saucepan gently till the butter is melted, and serve. 

Chickens a la Pondichery. — Cut up two fat and very fleshy 
chickens ; put in a stewpan two ounces of butter with four ounces of 
salt pork cut in squares ; fry briskly five minutes ; add the chicken and 
a chopped onion, and fry five minutes longer ; besprinkle with a table- 
spoonful of flour, and two of curry powder ; mingle well, add two glasses 
of white wine, a quart of water, a bunch of parsley, salt, two tablespoon- 
fuls of sour-apple sauce, and the scraped rind of two mandarin oranges ; 
boil, and let simmer for about forty minutes ; skim the fat, remove the 
parsley, press the juice of the oranges in, and serve in a large border of 
plain boiled rice. 

Lima Beans a la 1' Espagnole. — Wash and steep a quart of dry 
lima beans overnight in cold water ; boil in fresh water, with salt, a 
small piece of butter, a bunch of parsley, a quartered carrot, and an 
onion with three cloves in it, and cook slowly until done ; drain off the 
liquid ; remove the carrot, onion, and parsley ; add salt, pepper, chopped 
parsley, four ounces of butter in small bits, and two ladlefuls of espagnole 
sauce ; let the butter melt, toss slightly not to break the beans, and serve. 

Roast Fillets of Mutton, Currant-jelly Sauce. — Take two 
fillets of mutton ; pare off the spine and the superfluous fat from the 
surface and from the minion fillets ; fold the flap over, truss, and roast 
for about fifty minutes ; untruss and dish up the mutton, pour a little 
gravy around, and serve with a currant-jelly sauce [No. 275] in a sauce- 
bowl. 

Charlotte Plombieres. — Wet and put a round paper on the bottom 
of a plain charlotte-mould, and line the sides with lady-fingers ; mix 
with a quart of vanilla ice-cream, a pint of cream a la Chantilly, a wine- 
glassful of kirschwasser, and a pint of candied fruits soaked in syrup ; 
pour into the prepared mould, cover hermetically, and put into a freezer 
or a pail of salted ice ; at serving time, turn upon a folded napkin, re- 



38 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

move the paper, ornament the top with a variety of preserved fruits, 
and serve. 

Lady Fingers. — Break fourteen eggs, put the whites in a copper 
basin and the yolks in an earthen vessel with a pound of powdered 
sugar, and work these with a wooden spatula until very smooth ; beat 
the whites to a hard froth, and mix carefully with the yolks ; add twelve 
ounces of sifted flour, and mix carefully again, but not more than strictly 
necessary ; have ready a large cloth or paper funnel, with a three-fourths- 
of-an-inch aperture at the small end ; fill partially with the preparation, 
close the upper aperture, and press the paste gently out and about an 
inch apart on six-inch-wide slips of white paper ; besprinkle with pow- 
dered sugar ; put the lingers on baking-sheets, and bake until firm and 
of a slight brown color in a moderate oven ; take them off, and let them 
cool perpendicularly on the papers to prevent their getting moist while 
cooling. 



No. 22. 

Monday, January 22. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Onion soup a la Plessy. 

Fried perch au beurre noir ; 
Potatoes sautees. 



Calf's ear stuffed, tomato sauce } 
Stewed oyster-plant. 

Pate chaud of rabbits ; 
Vegetable salad. 



Apricot with rice. 

Onion Soup i, la Plessy. — Peel carefully and parboil four dozen 
of very small onions ; put in a stewpan with four ounces of butter and 
a little powdered sugar ; fry a light brown ; drain the butter, besprinkle 
with an ounce and a half of sifted flour ; mingle well, moisten with a 
quart of cold water and two quarts of veal or chicken broth ; add salt 
and pepper ; put on the fire, stir occasionally, and let boil slowly until 
the onions are well done ; prepare in a soup-tureen some thin sippets 
of dry french bread, besprinkle with two handfuls of grated gruyere 
cheese, pour the boiling soup and the onions over ; cover, let rest five 
minutes to allow the bread to soak well, and serve with more grated 
cheese on a plate. 

Fried Perch au Beurre Noir. — Cut small incisions on both sides 
of eight medium-sized, well-scaled, cleaned, and washed perch ; immerse 
in cold milk, roll in flour, and fry well to a light brown for about ten 



COOKERY BOOK. 39 

minutes ; drain on a cloth ; range on a dish ; besprinkle with salt and 
pepper ; add a few drops of vinegar on top, and put some fried parsley 
on both ends ; meanwhile put six ounces of butter in a frying-pan ; 
cook slowly to a dark color, remove the scum, and pour the clear part 
frying-hot over the fish (brown butter always leaves a sediment in 
the pan). 

Potatoes Sautees. — [No. 301.] 

Calf's Ear Stuffed, Tomato Sauce. — Parboil eight well- 
scalded and soaked white calves' ears ; cook in a stewpan with a 
white stock, made with a glass of vinegar and an ounce of flour 
mixed, and water enough to cover the ears ; add salt, an onion 
with four cloves, a handful of pepper-corns, and a half-pound of 
chopped beef suet ; boil, cover, and cook slowly until the ears are 
well done (it takes about an hour) ; drain, pare, remove the centre 
with a small round tin tube ; let cool, fill the inside nicely with cooked 
force-meat [No. 314] ; roll in bread-crumbs, immerse in beaten eggs, 
roll in bread-crumbs again, and fry slowly in a deep frying-pan with 
plenty of hot lard ; drain, and dish up on a folded napkin ; surround 
with fried parsley and quartered lemons, and serve with a sauce-bowl 
of tomato sauce. 

Stewed Oyster-Plant. — [No. 309.] 

Pate Chaud of Rabbits. — Make a pie-paste with two pounds of 
sifted flour, a pound of mellow butter, the yolks of three eggs, a little 
salt, and cold water ; knead the whole carefully with both hands till it 
is a pretty hard, smooth paste ; put in a damp napkin in a cool place, 
and let rest for an hour ; meanwhile prepare a well-buttered french 
pie-mould, on a buttered baking-sheet ; take most of the paste, flatten 
to an inch thick on a floured table, fold, and then spread it in the 
mould by pressing against the sides with the fingers of both hands to 
the thickness of about half an inch, and raising the paste about an inch 
above the edge ; line the paste inside of the mould with a buttered 
paper, fill with dry flour, cover with another round piece of paper, wet 
the inside edge of the paste above the mould, put a thin flat of paste 
above the flour, attaching it to the wetted edge by pressing gently with 
the thumbs and forefingers of both hands ; trim evenly and neatly, and 
ivith a pastry-pinch, pinch the edge inside and outside ; egg the surface, 
make a hole in the centre of the cover, ornament with leaf-like or other 
fanciful thin cuts of paste, egg again, and cook slowly to a light brown 
for an hour in a moderate oven ; lift the cover by cutting inside the 
edge, remove the flour and paper, egg the inside of the paste and of 
the cover, take off the mould, and put in the oven long enough to 



40 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

evaporate all the moisture ; at serving-time place on a folded napkin ; 
fill with stewed rabbits aux fines herbes [No. 19] ; put the cover on, 
and serve. 

Vegetable Salad, — Prepare and serve as Macedoine salad 
[No. 91]. 

Apricot with Rice. — Open a quart can of apricots ; drain them 
on a hair-sieve ; reduce the syrup with more sugar and two glasses of 
maraschino liqueur ; then cook the rice, and proceed as directed 
[No. 272] for pears. 



Xo. 23. 

Tuesday, January 23. — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup : Puree of turnips with cream. 

Baked pike, sauce marinade ; 
Stuffed potatoes. 

Chartreuse of partridges ; 
French peas. 

Roast rump of veal ; 
Lettuce salad. 



Gelee aux mirabelles. 

Puree of Turnips with Cream. — Peel and wash some hard 
white turnips ; slice fine and put into a stewpan with a pint of rice, two 
quarts of light white broth, two ounces of butter, a little white pepper, 
nutmeg, and sugar ; stir, boil, and cook slowly for two hours on the side 
of the fire or in a moderate oven ; press through a fine sieve, and return 
the residue to the stewpan ; dilute with boiled cream ; heat without 
boiling on a brisk fire, stirring continually ; finish with four ounces of 
butter in small bits ; pour into a soup-tureen ; add small square crofi- 
tons fried in butter, and serve immediately. 

Baked Pike, Sauce Marinade. — Select a large, very fresh, and 
fleshy pike ; scale, trim, wash, and wipe dry ; put into an earthen dish, 
with salt, pepper, a lemon (peeled and sliced), a glass of oil, a sliced 
onion, and sprays of parsley ; let the fish steep in this marinade for two 
hours or so ; then drain and place in a baking-dish with its marinade ; 
add half a pint of broth and a glass of white wine, and put a few bits of 
butter atop ; bake slowly in the oven for about forty minutes, taking 
care to sprinkle the fish very often with its gravy ; when done, drain the 
fish and transfer it to the serving-dish ; strain the gravy and reduce it 
with a pint of veloute sauce [No. 274] ; finish with a tablespoonful of 
essence of anchovies, four ounces of butter in small bits, a handful of 
small, well-drained capers, and mingle well ; pour this sauce over the 
fish, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 4r 

Stuffed Potatoes.— [No. 339.] 

Chartreuse of Partridges. — Cook three partridges with cabbage, 
etc., as explained [No. 291] ; with a small third-of-an-inch tube cut out 
the desired quantity of carrots and turnips in pieces an inch and a half 
long ; cook these separately, and rather firm, in salted water, with a 
little butter and sugar ; cool, and drain on a cloth ; butter a plain, large 
timbale mould of adequate size, line it with buttered paper, ornament 
the bottom with cuts of carrots, turnips, sausages, cabbage sprouts, etc. ; 
line the sides with rows of carrots and turnips, placed one on the other, 
and cut in the manner given above ; fill the inside ' with well-drained 
cabbage and the cut-up partridges, finishing with a layer of cabbage ; 
keep warm for fifteen minutes, then turn the mould into a round dish ; 
let stand awhile, drain off the liquid, lift up the mould carefully, pour 
two ladlefuls of well-buttered and reduced espagnole sauce around, 
and serve. 

French Peas. — [No. 318.] 

Roast Rump of Veal. — Procure a thick and fat rump of white 
veal, with the tail attached ; season with salt and pepper ; place in a 
copper pan (sheet-iron pans blacken and give a bad taste and appear- 
ance to white meats), with half a pint of water, small bits of butter on 
top, and a thick buttered paper over ; put in a moderate oven and roast 
an hour and a half, being careful to baste often with the gravy ; drain 
and dish up the veal ; add a little broth to the pan ; strain, skim the 
fat, reduce to a clear demi-glaze sauce, pour over the meat, and serve. 

Lettuce Salad. — [No. 98.] 

Gelee aux Mirabelles. — Prepare three pints of limpid sherry- 
wine jelly as directed [No. 2] ; open a quart-can or a bottle of small 
french, preserved mirabelle plums ; drain on a sieve and then on a cloth, 
so as to put them dry in the jelly ; imbed a jelly-mould in ice, pour 
some jelly into it, let congeal ; range a circle of plums, cover over with 
more jelly, let congeal again, and so on until the mould is filled ; let 
set thoroughly, and serve on a folded napkin. 

When fresh plums are used they ought to be slightly boiled in syrup 
and well drained on a hair-sieve. 



42 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 24. 

Wednesday, January 24. — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup : Tapioca a la Montglas. 

Turban of lobster a la Mazarin ; 
Omelet of potatoes. 

Turkey-wings with puree of chestnuts ; 
Macaroni a I' Italienne. 



Leg of venison a la Richmond ; 
Coldslaw salad ; 

Talmouse cakes. 

Tapioca a la Montglas. — Mingle two quarts of tapioca soup 
[No. 282], with a quart of tomato puree [No. 276] ; pour in soup- 
tureen with a garnishing of macaroni cut in inch-lengths, and a breast 
of chicken and some red beef-tongue cut in fine shreds ; serve with 
grated parmesan cheese separately on a plate. 

Turban of Lobster a la Mazarin. — Cut in large, thick slices, 
the meat from the tails and claws o"f two large, cooked lobsters ; 
butter a large, plain border-mould ; sprinkle all the inside with coral 
of lobster chopped fine ; line with a thin coating of fish force-meat, 
and add the sliced lobster ; with some other fish and white-wine 
make a normande sauce [No. 313] ; add six more egg-yolks to suffi- 
cient of the sauce to fill the mould ; then place it in a large sautoir 
with boiling water to half its height ; cover and steam slowly until 
well set ; drain and turn this border into a round dish ; pour into 
the hollow a garnishing made with heads of mushrooms, two dozen 
of cooked oysters, and a pint of fish quenelles [No. 12] ; pour more 
normande sauce over and serve. 

Omelet of Potatoes. — [No. 316.] 

Turkey-wings with Puree of Chestnuts. — Remove the two 
main bones from eight or more wings, stuff them with a pound of 
highly seasoned force-meat made with lean and fat pork in equal 
parts, and place them on a buttered sautoir with a bunch of parsley, 
salt, pepper, a quart of broth, and some bardes of lard over ; cover 
and cook gently for an hour ; drain and press slightly between two 
tin sheets with a light weight on top ; strain and free the gravy of 
its fat, reduce to the consistency of a demi-glaze with a gill of 
espagnole sauce ; pare the wings, put them in a sautoir with the sauce," 
cover and keep warm ; at serving-time, spread some puree of chest- 
nuts in an entree-dish, dress the wings in a circle, alternating with 
heart-shaped fried crusts of white bread ; fill the centre with more 
puree, pour the reduced sauce over all, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 43 

Puree of Chestnuts. — Put a quart of shelled chestnuts into 
a stewpan with a quart of good white broth, white pepper, nutmeg, 
a teaspoonful of sugar, and a piece of butter ; cover and cook slowly 
for an hour ; press through a fine sieve with a wooden presser ; re- 
turn the residue in a saucepan, dilute to the desired consistency with 
more broth if necessary, finish with two ounces of butter, mingle well 
and iise. 

Macaroni a 1' Italienne. — [No. 364.] 

Roast Leg of Venison a la Richmond. — Pare, remove the 
sinews, and lard the surface of a small leg of venison ; put it on the 
spit and roast for about an hour (the time depends on size of leg, 
but let it always be rather underdone) ; peel and parboil two dozen 
of small sweet potatoes ; drain and cook with clarified butter in a 
moderate oven ; dish up the venison, strain the gravy and pour it 
over ; ornament the knuckle with a white-paper ruffle, arrange the 
sweet potatoes round the venison, and serve with currant jelly in a 
glass dish. 

Coldslaw Salad. — [No. 89.] 

Talmouse Cakes. — Make half a pound of pate a choux [No. 
47], and dilute with a little frangipane [No. 347] ; with a rolling-pin 
spread some feuilletage paste on a floured table to the thickness of 
the sixth of an inch, and with a round paste-cutter cut pieces four 
inches wide ; spread the pate a choux over these cut pieces and fold 
the feuilletage paste over on three sides, to give the form of a tricorn ; 
place on a baking-sheet, egg the surface, bake in a brisk oven, dish 
up on a folded napkin, and serve hot. 



No. 25. 

Thursday, January 25. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Puree of peas with rice. 

Black bass a 1' etuvee ; 
Mashed potatoes sautees. 

Noix of veal a la Nivernaise ; 
Spinach with eggs. 

Fillets of mutton a la minute ; 
Doucette and beet salad. 



Tourte aux prunes. 

Pur^e of Peas with Rice. — Prepare two quarts of pea soup 
[No. 269]; mix with a quart of beef-broth, and a pint of boiled rice; 
boil the whole a few minutes longer, skim well, pour into a soup-tureen, 
and serve. 



44 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Black Bass a 1' Etuvee. — Scale, draw, pare, and wash two 
large black bass ; cut crosswise in eight or more pieces ; put into a 
saucepan three ounces of butter, with an ounce and a half of flour ; set 
on a slow fire ; stir with a wooden spoon until the flour is browned ; 
add two dozen of small raw, white onions ; fry a little longer, dilute 
with a pint of claret and a quart of light, white broth ; add salt, pepper, 
nutmeg, a bunch of parsley, and two bruised cloves of garlic ; boil ten 
minutes ; put the fish in this sauce, cover, and boil fifteen minutes 
longer ; remove the parsley, and dish up the fish and onions with a 
skimmer ; reduce the sauce to the desired consistency ; finish with two 
pats of butter and the juice of a lemon ; pour over the fish, sprinkle 
chopped parsley over, surround with heart-shaped croutons fried in 
butter, and serve. 

Mashed Potatoes Sautees. — Prepare some thick, mashed pota- 
toes without milk ; melt four ounces of butter in a large flat frying-pan, 
add the potatoes, and set on a brisk fire ; stir with a wooden spoon till 
very hot, press down gently in the shape of a large omelet ; fry till the 
outside is slightly browned ; turn into an oval dish, and serve. 

Noix of Veal, Braised a la Nivernaise. — Select a fat noix 
of white veal, and with a larding-needle insert across it large oblong 
shreds of well-seasoned salt pork ; put into a stewpan with butter, salt, 
pepper, a bunch of parsley, an onion with three cloves in it, some bardes 
of fat pork, two glasses of white wine, a pint of white broth, and six 
large carrots ; put a buttered paper over ; cover the stewpan, boil, 
and let simmer gently for two hours ; transfer the veal to another stew- 
pan, and keep it warm; drain and cut the carrots nicely in small 
pieces ; free the gravy of its grease, strain, reduce to the desired con- 
sistency with a pint of espagnole sauce, add the carrots, and boil a little 
more ; dish up the veal, surround with the carrots ; pour the sauce 
over, and serve. 

Spinach with Eggs. — [No. 159.] 

Fillets of Mutton a la Minute. — Remove most of the fat and 
all the sinews from four tenderloins (fillets) of mutton ; cut each one in 
two ; flatten slightly, pare nicely, and season with salt and pepper ; 
melt four ounces of butter in a- large sautoir, put the tenderloins in, and 
fry five minutes on a brisk fire, till slightly browned on both sides ; 
drain on a plate, and drip off most of the fat ; sprinkle in the sautoir a 
tablespoonful of sifted flour ; mingle well, dilute with a glass of sherry 
wine and a pint of broth, and boil a minute ; dish up the mutton in a 
circle, and alternate with fried croutons of the same shape as the fillets; 
skim and strain the sauce, pour it over, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 45 

Doucette and Beet Salad.— [No. 51] 

Tourte aux Prunes. — Prepare a feuilletage paste as directed 
[No. 273]; cut and roll down two round thin flats about ten inches 
wide and a sixth of an inch thick ; place one on a baking-sheet, pinch 
up a little ledge about an inch and a half from the edge, fill the centre 
with pitless, stewed french plums ; wet the edge, and cover the whole 
with the other flat of paste ; wet the edge again, and place an inch-wide 
rim of the same paste upon it ; press gently and make both ends adhere 
as neatly as possible ; trim around ; egg all the surface ; trace slight 
incisions on the centre, and bake half an hour in a moderate oven ; be- 
sprinkle with powdered sugar, and glaze of a nice color. Serve cold. 



No. 26. 

Friday, January 26. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Fish-broth a la bateliere. 

Hot halibut pie ; 
Stewed potatoes. 

Fried calf's feet, tomato sauce ; 
Celery a la Villeroi. 

Entrecotes of beef h la Bearnaise ; 
Red cabbage salad a la Russe. 

Fondue with cheese. 

Fish-Broth ^ la Bateliere. — Thicken three quarts of fish-broth 
[No. 327] with three ounces of flour cooked in three ounces of butter ; 
stir and boil ; remove toward the side of the range ; add a bunch of 
parsley, two glasses of sherry wine, white and red pepper, grated nut- 
meg, three blades of mace, and the liquor from two dozen cooked 
oysters and from a pint of scallops ; boil an hour, skim well, press 
through a napkin into another stewpan, and keep warm ; prepare and 
put into a soup-tureen the following garnishing : the cooked oysters and 
scallops, the meat of a small lobster (well pared and sliced fine), and » 
about two dozen of small fish-quenelles ; pour the boiling soup over, 
add two handfuls of small fried crotitons, and serve immediately. 

Hot Halibut Pie. — Sprinkle in a large, hollow, well-buttered 
china baking-dish two tablespoonfuls of chopped shallots and parsley* 
and on that place a layer of very fresh minced halibut (stale fish should 
never be used in this preparation) ; add salt, pepper, nutmeg, small bits 
of butter, more chopped shallots and parsley, and some sliced yolks of 
hard-boiled eggs ; then add another layer of fish, seasoning, butter, 
eggs, etc., and two bay-leaves ; moisten with two glasses of white wine 
and two ladlefuls of white sauce or thickened fish -broth ; wet the edge, 



46 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

and cover the whole with a thin layer of feuilletage paste [No. 278] ; 
make a small hole in the centre, wet and put a small paste-ring over it ; 
egg the surface ; with the point of a knife draw a few lines on the paste 
and make small incisions at the edge ; bake slowly in a moderate oven 
for an hour and a half ; add a little more thickened broth through the 
aperture, and serve in the baking-dish. 

Stewed Potatoes.— [No. 81.] 

Fried Calf's Feet, Tomato Sauce. — Cook a set (four) of calf's 
feet [No. 312] ; remove the bones, press the feet between two tin sheets 
with a light weight on top and let them cool ; then pare, cut in large 
shreds, and steep for an hour in an earthen basin, with salt, pepper, a 
sprig of thyme, two bay-leaves, a sliced onion, some parsley-leaves, a 
glass of oil, and the juice of a lemon ; stir occasionally to insure thor- 
ough impregnation with the seasoning ; drain, dip in a flour batter, and 
fry in very hot lard ; drain on a cloth, besprinkle with salt, dish up on 
a folded napkin, surround v/ith fried parsley, and serve with a sauce- 
bowl of tomato sauce. 

Celery a la Villeroi.— [No. 342.] 

Entrecotes of Beef a I'a Bearnaise. — Select two pretty 
thick entrecotes of beef (an entrecote is cut nearly the whole length 
between two ribs) ; remove the superfluous fat and the large 
muscle from the large end ; flatten slightly with a cleaver ; add salt and 
pepper and baste with a little sweet oil ; fifteen minutes before serving, 
broil them rare over a charcoal fire till slightly browned ; place on a 
large dish, garnish with two heaps of small, round, fried potatoes ; pour 
a bearnaise sauce [No. 258] over the steaks, and serve. 

Red Cabbage Salad a la Russe. — [No. 347.] 

Fondue with Cheese. — Break into and beat in a saucepan eight 
eggs ; add six ounces of freshly grated gruyere cheese, three ounces of 
the best table butter, white pepper, and very little salt ; set on a slow 
fire, and stir continually with a wooden spoon till the mixture becomes 
sufficiently thick and very smooth ; pour into a hollow dish, surround 
with triangular pieces of bread fried in butter ; cover, and serve 
immediately. 



COOKERY BOOK. 47 

No. 27. 

Saturday, January 27. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Brunoise with Italian paste. 

Broiled herrings, a la maltre d' hotel ; 
Potatoes fried in quarters. 

Beef glazed, tomato sauce ; 
Lazagnes a la Milanaise. 

Salmi of wild ducks ; 
Celery, sauce Mayonnaise. 

Gateau d' amandes. 

Brunoise with Italian Paste. — Cook half a pint of italian paste 
in a quart of beef-broth for twenty minutes ; mingle with two quarts 
of brunoise soup [No. 259] ; boil a few minutes longer ; skim well, 
and serve. 

Broiled Herrings i la Maitre d' Hotel. — Cut off the fins ; 
scale, draw, wash well, wipe dry, and make small incisions in both sides 
of eight or. more fresh herrings; baste with sweet oil; broil slightly 
brown, and serve with a mellow maltre d' hotel sauce [No. 276] over, 
and quartered lemons around. 

Fried Potatoes in Quarters. — Peel and wash some middle- 
sized potatoes ; cut in quarters, wash again, and drain on a cloth ; 
fry in hot lard, drain, put into a sautoir with two ounces of melted 
butter, a little salt and chopped parsley ; mingle well by tossing the 
sautoir ; put into a dish, and serve. 

Beef Glazed, Tomato Sauce. — Cook partly in a soup-pot a 
nice piece of beef from the rump, weighing about eight pounds ; put 
into an oval braisiere (copper braising-pan), with a quart of liquid 
from the surface of the soup-pot and some melted extract of beef 
spread over the meat ; finish by cooking for an hour or so in a moder- 
ated oven, sprinkling the surface once in a while with the gravy ; strain, 
skim the fat, and reduce the gravy to the consistency of a demi-glaze ; 
dish up the beef, pour the reduced gravy around, and serve with a sauce- 
bowl of tomato sauce [No. 197]. 

Lazagnes a la Milanaise. — Boil twelve ounces of lazagnes in 
slightly salted water, with a little butter, for twenty minutes ; drain 
without cooling ; turn in a sautoir (flat saucepan), with a little salt, 
white pepper, and a pinch of red, grated nutmeg, three ounces of red 
beef-tongue, half a pint of mushrooms, and two white piedmontese 
truffles (if any), the whole cut in fine shreds, three ounces of butter in 
small bits, six ounces of grated parmesan cheese, and half a pint of 
bechamel sauce ; mingle well by tossing in the sautoir, without break- 



48 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

ing the lazagnes ; turn into a deep dish, pour two ladlefuls of mixed 
tomato and demi-glaze sauce from the beef over them ; besprinkle with 
more grated cheese, and serve. This is an essentially proper dish to 
serve with the beef. 

Salmi of Wild Ducks. — Roast three or more wild ducks (accord- 
ing to size) ; cut in pieces, pare nicely, and keep warm in a saucepan ; 
bruise and put all the parings and bones in a saucepan, with two glasses 
of sherry wine, a quart of espagnole sauce, a pint of broth, a sprig of 
thyme, a bay-leaf, two cloves, a few pepper-corns, sprays of parsley, and 
sliced shallots ; boil briskly for twenty minutes ; strain the sauce 
through a colander, then press it through a napkin, and reduce to the 
desired thickness ; dish up the ducks on a large thick slice of fried 
bread ; squeeze the juice of a lemon in, and add two pats of butter to 
the sauce ; mingle well without boiling, pour over the ducks, and serve. 

Celery, Sauce Mayonnaise. — [No. 322. J 

Gateau d'Amandes d la Parisienne. — Put a round thin layer 
of feuilletage paste on a baking-sheet ; with the thumbs and forefingers 
pinch up a small ledge about half an inch high and an inch and a half 
inside of the edge of the paste ; pour a sufficient quantity of almond- 
cream inside of this ledge ; wet the edge, put a similar layer of the 
same paste over, press gently with the thumbs to cause the edges to 
adhere ; trim round, egg the surface, trace a few slight incisions over, 
and bake in a hot oven for thirty minutes ; besprinkle with powdered 
sugar, glaze a bright color, cool, and serve. 

Almond-Cream. — Pound fine half a pound of fresh blanched 
almonds, including four bitter ones, with two ounces of sugar ; screen 
by rubbing through a wire sieve ; mingle with the same quantity of 
frangipane-cream [No. 347], add a wineglassful of cognac brandy and 
a tablespoonful of orange-flower water, and mingle well with a table- 
spoon. 



No. 28. 

Sunday, January 28. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Consomme a la Sevigne. 

Pike k la Cavour ; 
Potatoes a la duchesse. 



Fillet of beef a la Conflans ; 
French peas. 

English hare i la Finnoise ; 
Salade russe. 

Pyramid of almond ice-cream. 



COOKERY BOOK. 49 

Consomme a la Sevigne. — Chop up and pound fine the breast 
of a large roasted chicken ; dilute with a pint of thickened chicken 
broth (veloute) twelve egg-yolks and two eggs ; add white pepper, nut- 
meg, and a pinch of sugar ; mingle well, and press through a fine 
sieve ; have ready about ten small v/ell-buttered timbale-moulds ; fill 
them with the above preparation ; cook in a sautoir with boiling water 
to half their height ; let cool in the moulds, pass the blade of a 
knife round the inside, turn out upon a wet napkin, and cut each one 
transversely in three pieces ; pour two quarts of chicken-broth [No. 
310] into a soup-tureen, add some small peas and cut string-beans, and 
serve v,'ith the sliced timbales separately in a hollow dish in which there 
is a little chicken-broth. 

Pike ^ la Cavour. — Select a large, very fresh pike ; cleanse, 
pare, wash well, make small incisions on both sides, and place on the 
grate in a well-buttered fish-boiler, with a bunch of parsley, salt, 
pepper, half a pint of white wine, and a pint of light white broth ; 
cover with a buttered paper ; boil, and then add some carrots, celery, 
onion, and parsley-roots cut in round, thin, penny-like slices ; boil 
slowly till done ; meanwhile cook in salted water, and drain about half 
a pound of nouille-paste rolled thin and cut in short shreds ; drain, and 
slide the fish on a dish ; surround with the carrots, nouilles, etc. ; 
strain the gravy, reduce it with a pint of veloute sauce, thicken with 
four egg-yolks, finish with the juice of a lemon and four ounces of butter 
in small bits ; mingle well ; pour over the fish ; place a heap of grated 
horseradish on each end, and serve. 

Potatoes a la Duchesse. — [No. 258.] 

Fillet of Beef a la Conflans. — Pare off most of the fat and sinews 
from a tenderloin of beef ; cover with bardes of fat pork, and 
cook fifty minutes in a bake-pan with sliced vegetables, aromatics, 
pork trimmings, and a pint of white wine and broth in equal parts ; this 
done, take off the lard, baste the surface with melted beef-extract, and 
glaze of a bright color for ten minutes longer ; drain the beef ; add a 
little broth to the pan, strain, skim the fat, and reduce the gravy with a 
pint of espagnole sauce ; dish up the beef ; add some red beef- 
tongue, mushrooms, and truffles cut julienne-like to the sauce, pour it 
round the fillet, and serve. 

English Hare a la Finnoise.— Procure an english hare, skin, 
paunch, crack the main bones, truss nicely, flatten slightly, and stiffen 
the surface on a brisk fire for a minute ; baste all over with the blood, 
cool, lard the surface of the fillets and legs with small oblong pieces of 
salt pork, and put in a deep oval earthen dish ; then prepare the 



50 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

following marinade : Melt in a saucepan two ounces of butter, 
add sliced carrot and onion, a sprig of thyme, two bay-leaves, pepper- 
corns, and a few sprays of parsley ; fry long enough to evaporate the 
moisture ; dilute with half a pint of water and half a pint of vinegar ; 
pour this boiling hot over the hare and let steep six hours, turning 
occasionally to well impregnate the hare with the seasoning ; drain, roast 
on a spit, put the marinade in the dripping-pan, and baste the 
hare with it while roasting ; when done (it takes about fifty minutes), 
take the hare on a dish, strain, and free the drippings of grease, reduce 
to the consistency of a light demi-glaze, mingle with half a pint of sour 
cream, and serve in a sauce-bowl, along with the hare. 

Salade Russe. — [No. 268.] 

Pyramid of Almond Ice-Cream. — Prepare a vanilla cream with 
a quart of milk, twenty ounces of sugar, sixteen egg-yolks, half a 
vanilla bean, and a quart of cream ; pound very fine six ounces of fresh 
blanched almonds ; moisten with a glass of cream, mingle with the 
vanilla preparation, and put on the fire ; stir continually with a wooden 
spoon, and as soon as the mixture thickens strain immediately through 
a fine hair-seive ; freeze in the ordinary way ; mould in a pyramid- 
form ; cover hermetically, and put in a pail of salted ice for two hours ; 
when ready to serve, immerse in tepid water, wipe the mould, turn upon 
a folded napkin, and serve. 



No. 29. 

Monday, January 29. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Tapioca with puree Crecy. 

Fillets of flounder, tartar sauce ; 
Potatoes a la Lyonnaise. 

Boiled turkey a la Toulouse ; 
Semolina croquettes. 

Boar's head with jelly ; 
Vegetable salad. 

Peaches a la Windsor, 

Tapioca with Puree Crecy. — Prepare two quarts of tapioca 
soup [No. 282], with a quart of puree a la Crecy [No. 254] ; boil to- 
gether for five minutes, skim, and serve. 

Fillets of Flounder, Tartar Sauce. — Take the fillets of 
two large flounders ; pare off the skin, trim a little, besprinkle with 
flour, dip in beaten eggs, roll in fresh crumbs, and fry light brown in 
plenty of very hot fat ; drain on a cloth, salt a little, range on a folded 



COOKERY BOOK. 51 

napkin ; put a handful of fried parsley atop, and serve with a tartar 
sauce [No. 83] in a sauce-bowl. 

Boiled Turkey a la Toulouse. — Select a plump, fat, and dry- 
picked turkey-hen, dress and cook as directed [No. 265] for chickens ; 
make an allemande sauce [No. 265] with the broth, and put into it a 
garnishing a la Toulouse [No. 343] ; drain and dish up the turkey ; 
pour the sauce over it, and the garnishing round, and serve. 

Semolina Croquettes. — [No. 215.] 

Boar's Head with Jelly. — Prepare a brine with water, salt, bay- 
leaves, thyme, whole spices, sage, and four sliced onions ; have a boar's 
head (if not, take the head of a black acorn-fed pig) ; singe off the re- 
maining hairs, clean the inside of the ears and nostrils with a red-hot 
poker ; make an incision from end to end in the under side ; remove 
the bare bones without injuring the skin ; spread on the table ; take up 
all the lean and part of the fat, and put the skin in the prepared brine ; 
add two pounds more of boar's meat (or pig's) to what has been taken 
from the head ; cut in large shreds, put the whole in a marinade [No. 
28], and let steep (skin and meat separately) for twenty-four hours, 
taking care to turn them once in a while ; drain the skin and spread it 
on a cloth, and drain the meat on a dish ; prepare a raw force-meat 
with the meat of two rabbits (save the fillets), a pound of lean and two 
pounds of fat pork, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a glass of sherry wine ; 
put a layer of force-meat on the inside of the skin, then a layer of 
shreds of fat and lean pork, fillets of rabbit and some cooked ham, 
then more force-meat, and so on until the whole has been used, finish- 
ing with force-meat ; cover with a layer of bardes of lard, bring the 
sides together, sew the opening, roll tightly and as nearly as possible in 
the original shape in the cloth ; tie both ends firmly, tie it also across 
with two or three strings, put into a braisiere with a garnishing of 
vegetables and aromatics and a set of pig's feet ; season highly, wet with 
enough boiling light broth to cover, add half a pint of sherry wine ; 
cook slowly for four hours, drain, and let cool enough to be easily handled ; 
remove the cloth carefully, rinse it in tepid water, press the water out, 
spread the cloth on the table, roll the head in it again and tie firmly, 
taking care to have the ears in the right position ; put the head and the 
fat from the broth in an oval, hollow basin, with a flat dish and a weight 
on top, and leave it thus overnight in a cool place ; strain and free the 
broth of every particle of fat, and clarify as explained [No. 362] for jelly; 
remove the cloth and strings from the head, pare the large end, baste all 
over with well seasoned hardly-melted lard, besprinkle with coarse and 
slightly browned rasped bread-crusts, place in an oval dish, garnish the 



52 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

base with jelly chopped fine, range neatly some triangles of jelly on the 
edge of the dish, and serve. 

Vegetable Salad. — Prepare and serve as macedoine salad 
[No. 91]. 

Peaches a la Windsor. — Cut eight or more flat, round pieces of 
sponge-cake, the size of a peach, and an inch and a half thick, also a 
higher one for the centre of the dish ; hollow them a little in the centre, 
and turn a large half-peach on each piece ; put a little peach-marma- 
lade in the place of the pit ; put another half-peach over to give the 
appearance of whole fruit ; baste with a little egg-white, besprinkle 
with powdered sugar, and glaze of a nice color in a very hot oven ; 
range on a dish with the high piece of cake in the centre ; pour the 
peach syrup reduced with more sugar and two glasses of maraschino 
liqueur round, and serve hot. 



No. 30. 

Tuesday, January 30. — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup : Puree of pumpkin. 

Broiled Wilmington shad ; 
Mashed potatoes. 

Leg of mutton a la Bretonne ; 
Fried parsnips. 

Fillets of widgeon with anchovies ; 
Beet and doucette salad. 



Gelee au marasquin. 

Puree of Pumpkin. — Peel, remove the seeds, and cut up four 
pounds of pumpkin ; put into a stewpan with three ounces of butter, 
three ounces of sugar, a little salt, Avhite pepper, nutmeg, and a pint of 
water ; cover, and boil slowly for two hours ; press through a colander, 
return the residue to the stewpan, and dilute with sufficient boiling milk 
(raw milk is liable to curdle) ; boil a few minutes, and finish with two 
ounces of butter; put four ounces of sliced french bread in a soup- 
tureen, pour the soup over ; cover, and serve immediately. 

Broiled Wilmington Shad (North Carolina ; although small, 
they come very fresh and pretty fat). — Scale and draw carefully two roe 
shads ; cut off the fins, wipe with a wet towel, make small incisions in 
both sides, split open by cutting along the back from head to tail ; re- 
move the spine, wipe again ; put into a large dish with salt, pepper, 
sweet oil, and lemon-juice ; let steep an hour, and broil wide open in a 
folding gridiron : when done fold in the natural shape, dish up, put cold 
maitre d' hotel sauce [No. 276] inside, and serve with quartered lemons 
on a plate. 



COOKERY BOOK. 53 

Mashed Potatoes.— [No. 18.] 

Leg of Mutton a la Bretonne. — Select a large leg of fat, mature 
mutton ; remove the hip and thigh bones ; season inside with salt, 
pepper, chopped parsley and shallot, and two bruised cloves of garlic 
(garlic, used as a seasoning in cooked meats, loses all its acridity and 
disagreeable odor, acts as a digester, and gives an appetizing flavor) ; 
tie up firmly, put into abraisiere with two ounces of butter, and fry on a 
brisk fire till slightly browned all around ; drain off the butter, wet with 
a quart of broth and a pint of tomato sauce ; add a bunch of parsley 
and an onion with three cloves in it ; cover, and boil slowly for four 
hours ; drain the meat, strain and free the gravy of its fat, reduce with, 
a pint of espagnole sauce, press through a napkin into a small saucepan, 
and keep warm. 

Garnishing a la Bretonne. — Cook a quart of kidney-beans [No. 
6] ; fry a chopped onion in a saucepan with two ounces of butter ; add 
the beans, moisten with a little broth and some sauce from the mutton ; 
add a pinch of black pepper, two ounces of butter, and some chopped 
parsley ; mingle well and pour into a hollow dish ; place the mutton in 
an oval dish, ornament the handle with a fanciful cut-paper cuff, and 
serve along with the beans. In France a leg of mutton cooked in this 
style is called "a gigot de sept heures," or "a gigot a la cuillere," which 
implies that it was cooked seven hours, and may be carved with a spoon. 
Instead of a paper cuff a silver or plated handle will be found more 
convenient to grasp the handle-bone with while carving. 

Fried Parsnips.— [No. 321.] 

Fillets of Vv/idgeon with Anchovies. — Roast briskly and rare 
four widgeons ; take up the fillets very neatly with a sharp knife, turn 
them over on small slices of toasted bread, and place in a buttered dish 
besprinkled with parmesan cheese ; place two anchovy fillets on each 
fillet of duck ; besprinkle with a little more grated cheese, chopped 
parsley, fresh bread-crumbs, and a few drops of sweet oil ; bake in a 
very brisk oven for about two minutes, squeeze the juice of two lemons 
over, and serve. This dish needs no second recommendation. 

Beet and Doucette Salad. — [No. 51.] 

Gelee au Marasquin. — Clarify three pints of jelly, with twelve 
ounces of sugar and an ounce and a half of isinglass, as directed [No. 
2] ; cool partially, add a gill of maraschino liqueur ; pour in a jelly- 
mould, cool thoroughly, and serve. 



54 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 31. 

Wednesday, January 31. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Chicken-broth a la chevaliere. 

Fillets of cod a 1' Espagnole ; 
Potatoes a la Hollandaise. 



Beef braised a la Parisienne ; 
Stewed celery. 

Marinade of chicken ; 
Game salad. 

Genoese cake. 

Chicken-Broth d la Chevaliere. — Prepare three quarts of 
chicken-broth [No. 310] ; grate the crust from four small french 
rolls, cut each one in two pieces, soak in cold cream for an hour ; drain 
on a wire grate for fifteen minutes ; dip in beaten eggs, fry till slightly 
browned in clarified butter ; drain on a cloth, and put on a plate ; pour 
the broth into a soup-tureen, add the leaves of two lettuce-stalks 
shredded fine and parboiled in boiling water for two minutes, and serve 
with a piece of fried roll on each plate. 

Fillets of Codfish a T Espagnole. — Take the fillets from the 
tail end of a very large cod ; bestrew a buttered baking-dish with 
chopped onion, parsley, and mushrooms ; place the fillets in the dish, 
one resting slightly upon the other ; add salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; strew 
more chopped parsley, onion, and mushrooms over, with a handful of 
bread-crumbs ; moisten with a glass of white wine, put small bits of 
butter on top, and cook for twenty minutes in a moderate oven ; cover 
the fish sufficiently with well-reduced espagnole sauce ; put more bread- 
crumbs and butter on top, bake ten minutes longer, press the juice of a 
lemon over, and serve in the baking-dish. 

Potatoes a la Hollandaise. — [No. 4.] 

Beef Braised ^ la Parisienne. — Tie nicely a piece of rump 
beef weighing about eight pounds, and put it into a braisiere with a 
pound of beef-suet (cut up), sliced carrots and onions, a bunch of 
parsley, and a little salt ; add a pint of broth, cover, put on a slow fire, 
and simmer until the liquid is reduced to a brown glaze ; dilute with a 
quart of light broth ; put the lid on the braisiere, let boil slowly, and 
then cook gently for about two hours longer ; drain and pare the meat ; 
strain and free the gravy of its grease, and reduce to the desired con- 
sistency with a pint of espagnole sauce ; place on a large oval dish ; 
garnish with alternate groups of very small potato croquettes, artichoke- 
bottoms, filled with small scooped carrots and turnips, and a few flow- 
erets of cauliflowers ; pour some of the sauce over the meat, and serve 
the rest in a sauce-bowl. 



COOKERY BOOK, 55 

Stewed Celery.— [No. 276.] 

Marinade of Chicken. — Take two cold chickens previously 
cooked in the chicken-broth ; cut them up, pare neatly, and place in a 
hollow dish, with salt, pepper, a sliced onion, chopped parsley, two 
glasses of oil, and the juice of two lemons ; mingle well, and let steep 
for an hour ; fifteen minutes before serving, drain, dip the pieces in a 
flour batter, and drop them one by one in plenty of frying-hot fat ; give 
them a nice color, drain, sprinkle a little salt over ; dish up on a folded 
napkin, surround with fried parsley, and serve with a bowl of tomato- 
sauce. 

Game Salad. — Divide two cold roasted partridges or grouse ; 
remove the skin and most of the bones ; pare neatly, put into a bowl, 
season with salt and pepper, oil and vinegar, and keep in a cool place 
for an hour ; put some sliced lettuce or celery in a salad-bowl, range 
the game upon the salad, mask with some mayonnaise dressing ; sur- 
round with quartered hard-boiled eggs alternately with quartered hearts 
of lettuce, and serve. 

Genoese Cake. — Break into a conical kitchen-basin eight eggs ; 
add a pound of powdered sugar, and beat vigorously with a wooden 
spoon or an egg-beater until the mixture is frothy ; add a little salt, a 
pound of sifted flour, a pound of powdered and sifted almonds, a pound 
of partly-melted fresh butter, and then a wineglassful of brandy ; mingle 
carefully, and bake in buttered and floured moulds, or in a deep, square, 
buttered, and floured baking-sheet ; serve cold, either plain or covered 
with icing sugar. 



No. 32. 

Thursday, February i. — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup : Turnip a la Freneuse. 

Fillets of salmon a la Orly ; 
Potatoes a la Mantaise. 

Loin of veal with cream ; 
String-beans. 

Hare stuffed a la fermi^re ; 
Coldslaw salad. 



Apple cake. 

Turnip a la Freneuse. — Peel a dozen long, sound white turnips ; 
cut small round or oval pieces out of them with a small vegetable 
scoop ; cook these in a small saucepan, with salt, white broth, a little 
sugar and butter, until the liquid is reduced to a glaze ; keep warm 
melt in a stewpan three ounces of butter, with a sliced onion, two leeks 



56 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

and a few slices of ham ; fry till slightly browned ; besprinkle with 
three ounces of flour ; mingle well ; dilute with three quarts of white 
broth, add the remainder of the turnips and a little pepper ; boil slowly 
for an hour and a half, remove the ham, rub through a fine sieve ; return 
to the stewpan with a pint of broth, boil, finish with three egg-yolks, a 
glass of cream, and two pats of butter ; mingle well, boil no longer, add 
the prepared turnips, pour in the soup-tureen with small thin dried 
sippets of french bread, and serve. 

Fillets of Salmon a la Orly. — Make eight or more fillets out 
of a tail-piece of salmon weighing about four pounds, remove the skin, 
flatten slightly, pare, put on a plate with salt, pepper, and lemon-juice 
for an hour ; dip in beaten eggs, roll in fresh crumbs, smooth with the 
blade of a knife ; give each one the form of a ring by joining both ends 
together and passing a skewer through ; fry of a nice color in plenty 
of hot fat ; drain on a cloth ; remove the skewers ; besprinkle with a 
little salt ; dish up on a folded napkin, surround with fried parsley and 
quartered lemons, and serve with a sauce-bowl of tomato-sauce. 

Potatoes a la Mantaise. — [No. 296.] 

Loin of Veal with Cream. — Take a loin of fresh, fat, white, 
fleshy veal, with the kidneys on ; remove the bones and the superfluous 
fat, pare and tie nicely ; place in a sautoir with four ounces of butter, a 
little salt, and a glass of water, put in a moderate oven, besprinkle very 
often with its gravy, and cook slowly for about two hours, till slightly 
browned ; drain, remove the strings, trim neatly, and cut the whole loin 
across in a dozen or more large thin slices, reconstruct the whole in a 
large oval dish, alternating each slice with a tablespoonful of thick 
bechamel sauce [No. 270] ; mask the whole with more thick sauce 
mixed with the beaten whites of three eggs, to give it more lightness 
and consistency ; besprinkle with a handful of fresh crumbs mingled 
with grated parmesan cheese ; drop an ounce of melted butter over, 
glaze briskly and slightly brown with a red-hot salamander, or in a very 
hot oven ; garnish with small potato croquettes, and serve with a bowl 
of demi-glaze sauce made with the trimmings and gravy of the veal. 

Hare Stuffed a la Fermiere.— Skin, paunch, truss, flatten 
slightly, stiffen the surface, and lard two leverets (young hares) ; make 
a stuffing by chopping fine the hearts, livers, and lights, with an onion 
and two ounces of fat pork ; cook in a frying-pan, stirring all the while 
with a wooden spoon, put into a basin with the same quantity of fresh 
bread-crumbs, some salt, pepper, chopped parsley, a raw egg, and a 
small piece of butter ; mingle well, put in the hares, sew up the aper- 
tures, and roast on the spit ; when done (it takes about fifty minutes), 



COOKERY BOOK. 57 

take from the spit and dish up ; put in a small saucepan two table- 
spoonfuls of chopped onion, the same quantity of ham cut fine, fry a 
little ; add a glass of white wine and a pint of good broth, boil a few 
mirmtes, thicken with an ounce of butter kneaded with an ounce of 
flour ; stir well, boil a moment, finish with chopped parsley and two 
tablespoonfuls of capers ; pour over the hares, and serve. 

Coldslaw Salad.— [No. 89.] 

Apple Cake. — Place a thin layer of short paste on a round baking- 
sheet ; pinch up the edge with the fingers so as to raise a little ledge ; 
besprinkle with fine sugar ; peel and cut in two, some large cooking- 
apples, remove the cores, slice thin, and range in circles on the paste, 
one slice overlapping the other ; besprinkle with ground cinnamon and 
fine sugar, and bake forty minutes in a moderate oven ; when cooled, 
divide in eight or more pieces, dish up in the original form ; dredge 
more powdered sugar over, and serve. 



No. 33. 

Friday, February 2. — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup ; Julienne au maigre. 

Crimpled halibut, caper sauce ; 
Mashed potatoes a la bourgeoise. 

Shoulders of mutton a la Croissy ; 
Baked macaroni. 



Roast stulTed capon ; 
Water-cress salad. 



Potato fritters. 

Julienne au Maigre. — Make a vegetable broth by putting into a 
stewpan three ounces of butter, with sliced onions, turnips, leeks, celery 
roots, and a teaspoonful of sugar ; stir and fry until the moisture is 
evaporated and the vegetables are slightly browned ; dilute with four 
quarts of cold water ; add a pint of white beans (previously soaked), a 
bunch of parsley, a quartered carrot, and salt and pepper ; boil slowly 
till the beans are done, and then strain the broth through a fine sieve, 
and remove the carrots and parsley (press the remaining vegetables 
through a sieve, put the residue into a saucepan, and keep warm to gar- 
nish an entree) ; cut in fine shreds some carrots, onions, turnips, leeks, 
and celery ; put into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, fry slightly 
brown, dilute with three quarts of vegetable broth ; boil an hour ; skim 
well, and season highly ; a few moments before serving add a few leaves 
of lettuce, chervil, and sorrel, shredded fine ; boil two minutes, pour into 
soup-tareen, and serve. 



58 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Crimpled Halibut, Caper Sauce. — Have about four pounds of 
strips of halibut, well soaked in cold water ; boil in salted water acidu- 
lated with vinegar ; drain, dish up ; pour a well-buttered caper sauce 
over, and serve. 

Mashed Potatoes a la Bourgeoise.— [No. 332.] 

Shoulders of Mutton i. la Croissy. — Remove the blade and 
round bone from two shoulders of mutton ; season inside, roll and tie 
nicely, and cook for three hours, as directed for leg of mutton [No. 30]; 
strain, and reduce the gravy with half a pint of brown sauce ; pare, and 
remove the strings of the mutton ; mix part of the sauce with the puree 
of vegetables kept from the soup ; pour into a dish ; put the mutton on 
the puree, add a little more sauce, and serve with the rest in a sauce- 
bowl. 

Baked Macaroni. — [No. 75.] 

Roast Stuffed Capon. — Procure a capon as directed [No. 10] ; 
singe, draw carefully, trim, wash inside, and wipe dry ; make a stuffing 
as follows : Soak four ounces of white of bread in cold water, press the 
water out, put into a basin ; add four ounces of fine sausage-meat, two 
eggs, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, the same quantity of chopped 
and parboiled onion, two ounces of mellow butter, salt, pepper, and nut- 
meg ; mix well with a wooden spoon ; fill the capon, truss neatly, tie 
both ends to keep the stuffing inside, and roast on the spit or in the 
oven for about an hour and a half ; dish up, remove the strings, dilute 
the drippings with a little broth ; free them from fat, strain, pour over 
the capon, and serve. 

Water-cress Salad. — Water-cress requires no other seasoning 
than salt and vinegar ; the best way to season it is, by immersing at the 
last moment in salted water acidulated with vinegar. 

Potato Fritters. — Roast in the oven about a dozen large mealy 
potatoes ; break open ; take up the pulp, and pass it quickly through a 
wire sieve with a wooden presser ; put the residue into a saucepan with 
two ounces of butter, two ounces of fine sugar, the yolks of six eggs, and 
the rind of a lemon chopped fine ; mingle well, set on the fire, stir con- 
stantly with a wooden spoon until boiling hot ; then spread the potato 
an inch thick in a flat, buttered tin-pan, cover with a buttered paper, 
and let cool ; turn upon a floured table ; cut in rectangles, or divide 
with a round paste-cutter ; dip in a light flour batter, and drop one by 
one in frying-hot lard ; drain on a cloth, pare, roll in powdered sugar ; 
dish up on a folded napkin, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK, 59 

No. 34. 

Saturday, February 3. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Consomme 4 la Piemontaise. 



Baked smelts a la Duxelles ; 
Potatoes a la maitre d' hotel. 



Boiled capon-pullet a la Genoise ; 
Croutes aux champignons. 

Croquettes of beef a 1' Italienne ; 
Salade Suedolse. 



Apricots a la Colbert. 

Consomm6 a la Piemontaise. — Put into a soup-pot of 
adequate size four pounds of soup-beef, a knuckle of veal, salt, and two 
gallons of water ; boil slowly and skim well ; add two carrots, a turnip, 
an onion with three cloves in it, two leeks, a head of celery, two cloves 
of garlic, and a nicely trussed capon-pullet filled with highly seasoned 
sausage-meat ; boil and skim again, and let simmer gently at the side of 
the fire for five hours, taking care to remove the fowl as soon 
as it is cooked, and to keep it warm for an entree in a covered sauce- 
pan with a little broth ; skim off the fat and strain the broth through a 
wet napkin ; wash well and put ten ounces of Italian rice in a saucepan 
with three quarts of broth and a good pinch of saffron ; boil slowly 
for half an hour ; pour into a soup-tureen, and serve with grated cheese 
on a plate. 

Baked Smelts a la Duxelles. — Spread a thin layer of fish force- 
meat on a buttered flat baking-dish, range some eighteen well-cleaned 
and trimmed very large smelts upon it ; bestrew with chopped shallots, 
parsley, and mushrooms, salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg ; mask with 
sufficient veloute sauce reduced with a glass of white wine, besprinkle 
with bread-crumbs ; drop small bits of butter over, and bake in a brisk 
oven for twenty minutes ; press the juice of a lemon over, and serve in 
baking-dish. 

Potatoes a la Maitre d' Hotel.— [No. 354.] 

Boiled Capon-Pullet a la Genoise. — Prepare a pound of 
nouille paste ; cut in fine shreds, cook in broth, drain ; season with 
a Httle salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; add two handfuls of grated parmesan 
cheese and a pint of veloute sauce, mix, and pour some into a 
dish ; place the fowl cooked in the broth thereon, surround 
with the rest ; shape nicely by raising the nouilles against the 
fowl with the blade of a long knife, pour two ladlefuls of curry sauce 
over the breast, and serve with more of the same sauce in a sauce- 
bowl. 



6o FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Croutes aux Champignons. — [No. io8.] 

Croquettes of Beef a 1' Italienne. — Chop fine about a pound 
and a half of cold roast beef ; soften half a pound of stale bread with a 
little cold broth ; fry two spoonfuls of chopped shallots with two 
ounces of butter ; add the beef and bread, salt and pepper, chopped 
parsley, a ladleful of espagnole sauce, and four egg-yolks ; stir on the 
fire with a wooden spoon until very consistent and nearly boiling ; turn 
into a basin, cool, divide in pieces on a table strewn with bread-crumbs, 
and give the size and shape of a large slightly-flattened cork ; dip 
in beaten eggs, roll in bread-crumbs, fry in a large sautoir with clarified 
butter, drain, dish up on a napkin, and serve with a bowlful of italian 
sauce. 

Salade Suedoise. — Cut small and put into a basin some cooked 
red beef-tongue, cold boiled potatoes, raw and peeled sour apples, 
cooked beets and carrots, and the fillets of two well-soaked salt 
herrings ; season with salt, pepper, oil, vinegar, chopped parsley and 
mustard ; mix well ; dish up in a salad-bowl ; surround with fillets of 
anchovies and stoned olives, and serve. 

Apricots a la Colbert. — Take sixteen or more halves of very firm 
preserved apricots, and drain them on a sieve ; cook half a pint of 
rice with a pint of milk, a little butter, two ounces of sugar, and a piece 
of vanilla-bean ; boil twenty-five minutes ; remove the vanilla, mingle 
with three egg-yolks, and turn into a plate ; when cool, fill the inside of 
each half-apricot with enough rice to give it the size and shape of a 
whole one ; overlay with apricot marmalade (marmalade is easily made 
with the smaller pieces cooked with the same quantity of sugar and 
pressed through a colander) ; roll in pulverized macaroons ; dip 
in beaten eggs, roll in the macaroons again ; fry slightly brown in clear, 
hot fat ; dish up on small hollow, round crusts of bread fried in butter 
and made to adhere to the dish with a little marmalade ; pour over all 
a short, thick sauce made with marmalade, vanilla, sugar, and the syrup 
of the preserved fruits ; serve hot. 



COOKERY BOOK. 6i 

No. 35. 

Sunday, February 4. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Puree of chicken 4 la Jussienne. 

Pike k la Castillane ; 
Croustades of potatoes a la regente. 

Calf's brain a 1' Italienne ; 
Haricots flageolets. 

Roast loin of beef a la Parisienne ; 
Lettuce and beet salad. 

White chocolate ice-cream. 

Puree of Chicken a la Jussienne. — Make a force-meat with a 
pound of raw chicken-meat, lialf a pound of white-bread panada [No. 
294], half a pound of butter, salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and the yolks of 
six eggs ; put into a plain, buttered charlotte-mould, and cook slowly 
for an hour in a covered stewpan, with boiling water to half the height 
of the mould ; cool in the mould, then turn into a mortar and pound to 
a paste ; dilute with three quarts of chicken-broth lightly thickened 
with two ounces of butter and two ounces of flour, and well skimmed ; 
rub through a fine hair-sieve ; return to the stewpan ; stir until very 
hot but not boiling ; finish with a liaison of three egg-yolks, a glass of 
cream, and two ounces of table butter ; mingle well, and serve with 
small square crotitons on a separate plate. 

Pike a la Castillane. — Select a large pike, cleanse, wash, and 
wipe dry ; remove part of the skin from the back ; insert perpendicularly 
in each side, three rows of oblong pieces of truffles and red beef-tongue 
cut about half an inch long ; put a thin layer of bardes of lard over 
and tie loosely with strings ; then place the fish on its belly in a narrow 
fish-boiler ; put a carrot on each side to keep it in position ; add salt, 
a sliced onion, and a bunch of parsley, also a pint of white wine, a 
quart of light broth, and the liquor of two dozen cooked oysters ; cover 
and cook slowly for an hour ; drain the fish on the grate ; strain the 
gravy, return the fish to the boiler, and keep warm ; thicken the gravy 
with two ounces of flour cooked in two ounces of butter, but not 
browned ; skim, press through a napkin ; add four ounces of butter and 
the juice of a lemon ; dish up the fish ; remove the strings and lard, 
surround with a garnishing a la Castillane, prepared with the sliced tails 
and claws of two small lobsters, a few large slices of trufiles, and two 
dozen oysters ; pour the sauce over, and send to table. 

Croustades of Potatoes ^ la Regente.— [No. 2.] 

Calf's Brain a 1' Italienne.— Choose four fresh brains ; remove 
all the arteries, soak for three hours, changing the water very often ; 



62 ' FRANCO-AMERICAN 

drain, and cook for forty minutes in salted water, with a gill of white- 
wine vinegar, pepper-corns, two blades of mace, a sliced onion, and a 
bunch of parsley ; drain on a cloth, and divide each lobe in two pieces ; 
pour some italian sauce into an entree dish, dish up in a circle alternat- 
ing each piece with a crest-shaped crust of bread fried in butter ; pour 
more sauce in the centre, and serve. 

Haricots Flageolets. — Open a quart can of preserved french 
flageolets (green shelled beans) ; drain and put in a saucepan with a 
little fresh water ; boil a moment ; drain again, add three ounces of 
butter, a little salt, pepper, chopped parsley, and lemon-juice ; mingle 
well and serve. 

Roast Loin of Beef a la Parisienne. — Prepare and roast a loin 
piece of beef as directed [No. 268] ; place on a dish ; flank each side 
with groups of beef-rissoles [No. 181], and serve with a rich gravy in a 
sauce-bowl. 

Lettuce and Beet Salad. — [No. 94.] 

White Chocolate Ice-Cream. — Roast twelve ounces of cocoa 
beans in an untinned kitchen-basin ; bruise in a mortar ; put into a 
saucepan with half a vanilla-bean and a quart of boiling milk ; cover, 
and infuse for two hours without boiling ; meanwhile put in a tinned 
kitchen-basin the yolks of sixteen eggs and twenty ounces of sugar ; 
mix well ; add a quart of good milk or cream and the infusion of cocoa ; 
set on the fire, stir constantly with a wooden spoon, and as soon as the 
mixture thickens strain quickly through a fine sieve ; stir occasionally 
while cooling ; freeze in the ordinary way ; put in a mould, cover her- 
metically, and place in a pail of salted ice for two hours. When cover- 
ing ice-cream moulds, if the cover does not fit well, the interstices must 
be filled with a little butter to prevent the salted water from entering 
and spoiling the preparation in the mould. 



No. 36. 

Monday, February 5. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Cabbage i la Languedocienne. 

Baked salmon with scallops ; 
Potatoes a I'Anglaise. 

Small patties of sweetbread ; 
Puree of celery with croutons. 

Roast haunch of mutton, currant jelly ; 
Lettuce salad i la Comtoise. 

Cabinet pudding i I'orange. 

Cabbage d la Languedocienne. — Cook a quart of peeled and 



COOKERY BOOK. 63 

Bliced potatoes with three quarts of beef-broth and a piece of butter ; 
press through a sieve, boil again, and keep warm ; fry light brown, in a 
siewpan, a chopped onion with four ounces of butter ; add a head of 
eavoy cabbage sliced fine, cook slowly ; put in salt, pepper, and two 
tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce ; let cool, and then mingle with four 
ounces of grated parmesan cheese; flatten very thin some nouille paste 
on a floured table, and with the prepared cabbage make some rather 
large raviolis [No. 324] ; a few moments before serving, cook these in 
salted boiling water ; drain and range them in a soup-tureen ; knead 
four ounces of butter with four egg-yolks, a little pepper, nutmeg, and 
a handful of grated cheese ; put this in the boiling soup ; mix well 
without boiling ; pour over the raviolis, and serve immediately. 

Baked Salmon with Scallops. — Cut into slices about four 
pounds of salmon ; spread a thin, layer of fish force-meat [No. 12] on 
an oval, medium-sized baking-dish ; season, and range the salmon in a 
circle on the force-meat, add chopped parsley and shallots ; pour a thick 
veloute sauce over the fish, besprinkle with white bread-crumbs, put 
small bits of butter atop, and bake thirty minutes in a moderate oven ; 
fill the centre with scallops stewed in a well-buttered veloute sauce, 
sprinkle chopped parsley and lemon-juice over all, and serve in the 
baking-dish. 

Potatoes a I'Anglaise. — [No. 293.] 

Small Patties of Sweetbread. — Line eight or more well- 
buttered and high-shaped tartlet-moulds with short-paste ; spread a 
little quenelle force-meat [No. 294] inside ; fill with a salpicon made 
with small squares of cooked sweetbread, mushrooms, and truffles, 
moistened with espagnole sauce ; spread a little more force-meat over ; 
wet the edges ; cover with a thin flat of the same paste ; make a small 
hole in the centre, egg the surface, and cook in a moderate oven 
for twenty minutes ; turn the patties out of the moulds, pour a little 
more sauce through the aperture ; put a little channelled cover of 
feuilletage-paste cooked separately upon each patty, and serve in a 
pyramidal form on a folded napkin. 

Puree of Celery with Croutons. — [No. 326.] 

Roast Haunch of Mutton, Currant Jelly. — Procure a medium- 
sized haunch of tender mutton ; prepare and roast as directed [No. 
346] for leg of mutton ; dish up ; add a paper ruffle to the knuckle bone ; 
pour a little rich gravy round the meat, and serve with currant jelly on 
a plate. 

Lettuce Salad ^ la Comtoise. — [No. 320.] 

Cabinet Pudding ^ 1' Orange. — Put in a kitchen-basin ten egg- 



64 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

yolks and two eggs, half a pound of sugar, and the rind of two oranges 
chopped fine ; mix well ; dilute with a pint of hot milk, and press 
through a sieve when the sugar is melted ; have a plain buttered char- 
lotte-mould ; put a buttered paper on the bottom ; line the bottom and 
sides with lady-fingers ; cut in slices and mingle together some candied 
fruits, such as pineapple, angelica, gages, sultana raisins, and, princi- 
pally, orange-peel ; put a layer of fruit in the mould, then a layer 
of lady-fingers, another layer of fruit, and so on until the mould is 
filled ; pour the prepared milk and eggs over ; put in a stewpan with 
boiling water to half the height of the mould ; cover and steam slowly, 
without bubbling, for an hour ; turn on a dish, let rest awhile, take off 
the mould, remove the paper, pour an orange sauce over, and serve 
with more sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Orange Sauce. — Put in a saucepan four egg-yolks, three ounces 
of sugar, a tablespoonful of flour, the rind of an orange grated on loaf- 
sugar or chopped fine ; mix well ; dilute with a pint of boiling milk ; 
stir, on the fire, until the mixture thickens ; add a liqueur glass of 
cura9ao ; move aside, and beat with a small wire-whip until the sauce is 
frothy. 



No. S-?. 

Tuesday, February 6. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Calf's tail a 1 Allemande. 

Broiled soles a la maitre d' hotel ; 
Potatoes a la Lyonnaise. 

Rissoles of beef-marrow ; 
Baked spaghetti. 

Noix of veal a la Trianon ; 
Chicory salad a la Gasconne. 

Gelee a la creme de cacao. 

Calf's Tail d 1' Allemande. — Take four calves' tails, pare off both 
ends ; cut in short pieces, soak in fresh water for an hour, drain, put in 
a stewpan with salt, two quarts of beef-broth, two quarts of water, and 
a knuckle of veal ; boil slowly, scum thoroughly ; add a carrot, an 
onion with three cloves in it, a head of celery, and a bunch of parsley; 
cook slowly for about an hour ; with a skimmer transfer the tail-pieces 
to another stewpan ; strain and free the broth of its fat, thicken with 
three ounces of flour cooked in three ounces of butter, but not browned; 
stir, boil, add a pint of rhine wine, white pepper, and nutmeg ; let sim- 
mer on the side of the fire for half an hour ; press through a napkin 



COOKERY BOOK. 65 

over the tails, and boil a few minutes longer ; pour into a soup-tureen, 
add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and serve. 

Broiled Soles ^ la Maitre d' Hotel. — Scale, cleanse, cut the 
tails and fins short, and remove the head and the dark skin of two Nova 
Scotia soles (flukes) ; put into a dish with salt, pepper, oil, and the 
juice of a lemon ; let marinate for an hour ; broil slowly in a double 
gridiron, on a slow charcoal fire ; place a cold maitre d' hotel sauce 
[No. 276], in a hot dish ; slide the fish on the sauce, with the white 
side uppermost ; surround with quartered lemons, and serve before 
the sauce is melted. 

Potatoes a la Lyonnaise. — [No. 6.] 

Rissoles of Beef-Marrow. — Soak previously, and then cook in 
salted water, large pieces of beef-marrow ; cool in the water, divide in 
thin slices, and then cool thoroughly on ice in a small wet napkin, 
immerse twice in a well-reduced and nearly cold espagnole sauce, 
mingled with a little beef-extract, and place on a tin sheet in a cool 
place ; with a rolling-pin spread on a floured table a long strip of 
feuilletage paste [No. 278] ; range pieces of marrow on the strip 
about an inch from the edge and two inches apart ; wet the edge and 
the spaces ; fold the edge over the marrow ; press gently to make the 
paste adhere, and part the strips with a two-inch wide channelled 
paste-cutter ; trim the remaining paste, make another row of rissoles^ 
and so on until all the marrow is used ; dip the rissoles in beaten 
eggs, drop them in plenty of frying-hot fat, cook slowly ; dish up on 
a folded napkin, surround with fried parsley, and serve very hot. 

Baked Spaghetti.— [No. 35S.] 

Noix of Veal a la Trianon. — Select a large noix of fat white 
veal ; divide in three equal parts, flatten with a cleaver and pare 
neatly ; to one piece attach shreds of salt fat pork, insert small 
oblong pieces of cooked red beef-tongue in another, and oblong 
slices of truffles in the last ; cover the two last with thin bardes of 
lard, and put all in a large sautoir with a garnishing of aromatics and 
vegetables ; moisten with a quart of white broth, place a buttered paper 
over, and cook slowly for two hours ; remove the bardes of lard ; take 
care to sprinkle the meat occasionally with the gravy, in order to 
obtain a bright, slightly brown color ; drain the veal into another 
sautoir, and keep warm ; strain and free the gravy of its fat, and 
reduce with half a pint of espagnole sauce ; pour into a dish a thick 
pur^e of chestnuts [No. 24] ; put thereon the three pieces of veal, rest- 
ing slightly upon each other ; pour a little of the reduced sauce round 
the dish, and serve the rest in a sauce-bowl. 



66 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Chicken Salad ^ la Gasconne. — Serve as directed [No. 359] ; 
with a capon of garlic [same number]. 

Gelee \ la Creme de Cacao. — Clarify a plain, sweet jelly in the 
ordinary way, but without any flavor ; let cool a little ; add half a pint 
of cream of cacao liqueur ; pour into an ornamental cylindrical jelly- 
mould, let cool, and set well ; immerse in tepid water ; turn into a very 
cold entremet dish, and serve. 



No. 38. 

Wednesday, February 7. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Onion, with cheese. 

Stewed lobster a la Gloucester; 
Potatoes a la Bordelaise. 

Chicken curry a la Turque ; 
Croquettes of macaroni. 

Antelope steaks ; 
Celery, sauce Mayonnaise. 

Souffle aux amandes. 

Onion Soup with Cheese. — Slice fine, four large white onions ; 
put in a stewpan with four ounces of butter, stir and fry slowly until 
softened and slightly browned ; besprinkle with two ounces of flour ; 
dilute with two quarts of beef-broth and a quart of water ; add salt and 
pepper, and boil ten minutes ; meanwhile cut in thin slices and dry in 
the oven about four ounces of french bread ; have a well-buttered soup- 
tureen bestrewn with grated parmesan cheese, put in a layer of bread, 
sprinkle grated cheese over ; add two more layers of each, finishing with 
the cheese ; pour the boiling soup over ; cover for a few minutes to give 
time for the cheese to melt, and serve. The onion may also be strained 
without impairing the flavor and richness of the soup. 

Stewed Lobster a la Gloucester. — Boil four medium-sized lob- 
sters in salted water acidulated with vinegar, for twenty minutes ; take the 
meat from the tails and claws, cut in slices, and range in the serving- 
dish ; turn a smaller dish over and keep warm ; knead to a paste, in a 
large bowl, two ounces of pulverized crackers, with six ounces of mellow 
butter, white and red pepper, and chopped parsley ; boil in a saucepan 
four tablespoonfuls of extract of beef, with a glass of sherry wine ; then 
add gradually the kneaded crackers and butter to the liquid on the fire, 
stirring steadily, and, without boiling, finish with the creamy substance 
of the lobster, pressed through a sieve ; add two tablespoonfuls of vine- 
f^ar, mingle well, pour over the lobster, and serve immediately. Be 
careful to have the sauce pretty consistent ; if it curls, put in a table- 
spoonful of cold water, and stir with an egg-beater. 



COOKERY BOOK. 67 

Potatoes ^ la Bordelaise. — [No. 304.] 

Chicken Curry a la Turque. — Draw, singe, and cut in pieces, two 
tender, fat chickens ; put in a saucepan, with salt, pepper, and cold 
water enough to cover ; set on the fire ; let boil slowly, and scum well ; 
place a colander on another stewpan ; throw the whole into it and save 
the broth ; cool the pieces of chicken in fresh water, wash off the adher- 
ing scum, and trim nicely ; return to a stewpan with four ounces of 
butter ; fry briskly without coloring for five minutes ; besprinkle with a 
tablespoonful of sifted flour, two of curry powder, and a pinch of pow- 
dered saffron ; mingle well, dilute gradually with the strained broth ; 
add a glass of white wine, nutmeg, and a bunch of parsley ; set on the 
fire, stir to a boil, and let simmer for about forty minutes ; meanwhile 
wash well and boil for twenty minutes a pint of rice with a quart of 
chicken-broth kept for that purpose ; add two ounces of butter, a little 
nutmeg, and a pinch of powdered saffron ; mix well, and fill a large 
buttered plain border-mould ; press down gently, and turn in a dish ; 
remove the parsley, add a liaison of three yolks of eggs, two ounces of 
butter, and the juice of a lemon to the chicken ; dish up in a pyramidal 
form in the centre of the border ; pour the sauce over, and serve. 

Croquettes of Macaroni. — [No. 81.] 

Antelope Steaks. — Procure about four pounds of antelope steaks ; 
prepare and cook as directed for venison steak [No. 8] ; pour a thickened 
rich gravy around, and serve with currant jelly in a glass dish. 

Celery, Sauce Mayonnaise. — [No. 322.] 

Souffle aux Amandes. — Take half a pound of sweet almonds, and 
four bitter ones ; rub in a cloth, and chop very fine without bleaching them; 
put in a basin ten egg-yolks, with ten ounces of sugar ; stir vigorously 
with a wooden spoon for ten minutes ; add the almonds and the whites 
of ten eggs beaten to a froth ; mingle well and carefully, pour into two 
medium-sized china or plated hollow baking-dishes, previously buttered; 
place on a baking-sheet, cover with a sheet of paper, and bake in a 
moderate oven for about twenty minutes ; when nearly done, remove 
the paper, besprinkle with powdered sugar, glaze the surface for a min- 
ute longer, and serve immediately with hot plates. 



68 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 39. 

Thursday, February 8. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Ox-tail, English style. 

Hure of salmon i la Cambaceres ; 
Potato cakes. 



Croquettes of partridge ; 
Spinach with cream. 

Turkey a la Reyniere ; 
Lettuce and celery salad. 

Apples i I'Angelique. 

Ox-Tail, Hnglish Style. — Cut in short pieces two ox-tails, soak 
in fresh water for three hours, changing the water once in a while ; 
put on the fire with cold water ; boil five minutes, cool, and wash 
well ; drain, put into a stewpan with two quarts of beef-broth and 
two quarts of water, two carrots, an onion with two cloves in it, a 
bunch of parsley, a head of celery, and a little salt ; then cook 
slowly (it takes about three hours) ; with a skimmer transfer the tails 
to another stewpan, drain the carrots, strain and free the broth of 
its fat, thicken with three ounces of flour browned in three ounces 
of butter ; add two glasses of sherry and a glass of port wine, and 
white and red pepper ; boil an hour, skim, press through a napkin 
over the tails ; add the carrots cut in small pieces and trimmed, and 
two dozen of small glazed onions ; boil a few minutes longer, skim 
again, and serve. 

Hure of Salmon ^ la Cambaceres. — Take a head-piece of 
salmon weighing about six pounds ; trim and truss neatly, put on a 
grate in a fish-boiler with slices of ham, salt, a bunch of parsley, 
and a buttered paper over ; wet with a pint of rhine wine and a 
quart of broth ; cover, and let simmer gently for an hour ; drain well, 
and slide the fish on a dish ; garnish with small truffles, heads of mush- 
rooms, and two dozen stoned and parboiled olives ; thicken the gravy 
with two ounces of flour browned in butter ; boil and skim well ; finish 
with two pats of butter, a little red pepper, and the juice of a lemon ; 
press through a napkin, pour over the fish and garnishing, and serve. 

Potato Cakes. — [No. 302.] 

Croquettes of Partridge. — Cut fine the meat from the breasts 
of two cold roasted partridges, some red beef-tongue, and half a pint 
of mushrooms ; put into a saucepan a pint of well-reduced allemande 
sauce, with a tablespoonful of extract of game or beef and four egg- 
yolks ; stir and boil a minute ; put the partridge, etc., in the sauce ; 
mingle well, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, pour into a dish, and 



COOKERY BOOK. 69 

cool on ice ; make small round croquettes, bread them by immersing 
in beaten eggs and rolling in fresh bread-crumbs ; fry quickly till 
slightly browned ; dish up in a group on a folded napkin ; surround 
with fried parsley, and serve. 

Spinach with Cream. — [No. 336.] 

Roast Turkey a la Reyni^re. — Select a plump, fat, and tender 
turkey-hen ; singe, draw carefully, remove the lights, truss nicely, and 
roast for about an hour and a quarter ; untruss, place on a dish ; sur- 
round with small, inch-long fried sausages and large blanched italian 
chestnuts, cooked whole, in broth ; put a handful of water-cress at each 
end, and serve with a slightly thickened gravy in a sauce-bowl, in which 
the liver, previously cooked in turkey-grease and sliced fine, has been 
put at the last moment. 

Lettuce and Celery Salad. — Prepare as directed [No. 98] with 
the addition of a bunch of celery well pared and cut in inch-long shreds. 

Apples a I'Angelique. — Peel and remove the cores from six 
large, sound cooking-apples ; cut in quarters, pare, and put into a but- 
tered sautoir, with the juice of a lemon and fine sugar sprinkled over ; 
then cook in a moderate oven ; cook a pint of rice with milk, sugar, 
and a little vanilla ; place the rice in the centre of a dish ; smooth the 
surface, range the apples on the rice, surround with fanciful cuts of an- 
gelica inserted in the rice to make a border ; put more sugar in the 
sautoir with a glass of kirschwasser, to make a syrup ; add a handful of 
shreds of angelica, pour over the apples, and serve hot. 



No. 40. 

Friday, February 9. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Milk a la Monaco. 

Red-fish a la Texienne ; 
Stuffed potatoes. 

Shoulders of mutton a la demi-glaze ; 
Beets a la Chartreuse. 

Roast capon, cranberry jelly ; 
Egg and potato salad. 

Pancakes with chocolate. 

Milk \ la Monaco.— Cut three french rolls in thin slices ; be- 
sprinkle with powdered sugar ; glaze slightly brown in the oven, and 
put them in a soup-tureen with a little salt ; boil two quarts of milk and 
a quart of cream (or, if possible, all pure milk is preferable) ; add a 
liaison of six egg-yolks ; mix well ; boil no longer ; pour the milk over 
the bread in the tureen ; cover, let soak a few minutes, and serve. 



70 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Red-fish ^ la Texienne. — Take a small red-fish or a piece of a 
large one, weighing about six pounds ; put on the grate in a fish-boiler, 
with salt, sweet-pepper powder (red sweet-pepper powder is a Mexican* 
product much used as a seasoning in Southern States and South Amer- 
ica), a bunch of parsley, two sliced onions, two ounces of butter, a 
pint of catawba wine, a little water, and a quart of canned 
tomatoes ; put a buttered paper over, and the lid on the boiler, 
and let simmer gently for an hour ; drain the fish on the grate, 
remove the parsley, pour the gravy and all in a saucepan ; return the 
fish to the boiler, cover and keep warm ; thicken the gravy with an 
ounce of flour and a tablespoonful of curry-powder kneaded with two 
ounces of butter ; add a pinch of saffron ; boil fifteen minutes ; finish 
with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, the juice of a lemon, and 
two ounces of butter in small bits ; slide the fish into a large oval 
dish ; garnish with groups of large picked shrimp's-tails ; pour the 
sauce over, and serve with a dish of rice boiled a la Creole [No. 8], to 
be handed round with the fish. 

Stuffed Potatoes. — [No. 339.] 

Shoulders of Mutton a la Demi-glaze. — Bone two large 
shoulders of mutton, season highly, and insert inside fine shreds of salt 
pork ; with a dressing-needle draw along the edge a strong string, and, 
by tying firmly, give the shoulders the form of a balloon or a sphere ; 
place in a braisiere ; cover with bardes of lard, garnish with aromatics 
and vegetables ; add salt, two glasses of white wine, a little broth, and a 
pint of canned tomatoes ; cover hermetically and cook slowly for 
about two hours ; drain the mutton ; strain and free the gravy of its 
fat ; reduce to the consistency of a demi-glaze with half a pint of 
espagnole sauce ; remove the strings, trim and dish up the mutton ; 
pour the sauce over, and serve. 

Beets a la Chartreuse. — Cook in the skin ; cool, peel, and cut 
in round, thick slices, some beets ; cut a thin, round slice of raw 
white onion for every two slices of beet ; season the whole with salt, 
pepper, and a few drops of vinegar ; sandwich a slice of onion between 
two slices of beets, press gently, dip one by one in a light flour batter, 
drop in plenty of frying-hot lard, fry slowly for five minutes, drain on a 
cloth, besprinkle with salt, and serve on a folded napkin. 

Roast Capon, Cranberry Jelly. — Follow the directions given 
[No. 10], for the choice and preparation of a capon, and serve with 
cranberry jelly [No. 305] in a crystal dish. 

Egg and Potato Salad. — Add sliced hard-boiled egg to a potato- 
salad [No. 132]. 



COOKERY BOOK. 71 

Pancakes with Chocolate. — Put in a kitchen-basin four ounces 
of sifted flour, two ounces of powdered sugar, a handful of bruised 
macaroons, two ounces of melted butter, three eggs, and three egg- 
yolks, and a little milk ; mix well ; butter two small flat frying-pans, and 
make a number of slightly-browned thin pancakes; put them on the table, 
spread some frangipane-cream [No. 347] over; roll, besprinkle with 
powdered sugar, and glaze in a very hot oven ; dish up in a circle, 
pour a chocolate sauce in the centre, and serve. 

Chocolate Sauce. — Melt in a saucepan four ounces of chocolate 
without sugar (cacao) ; mix with four ounces of sugar, a little vanilla 
and a pint of boiled milk ; put on the fire, stir with a small egg-whip 
beat well, and serve. 



No. 41. 

Saturday, February 10. — Bill of fare for eight persons: 
Game soup a la Corjoise. 

Fillets of sole a la Trouville ; 
Potatoes a la Rouennaise. 

Small timbales a la Venitienne ; 
Rice croquettes au Parmesan. 

Entrecotes of beef with anchovy butter ; 
Water-cress salad. 



Creme Bavaroise with ginger. 

Game Soup a la Cor^oise. — Roast partly two partridges and a 
rabbit ; put into a small soup-boiler with half a pound of salt pork, half 
a pound of raw ham, a pint of lentils, a pound of soup-beef, two smoked 
sausages, a bunch of parsley, an onion, a head of celery, and a handful 
of genoese mushrooms previously soaked in tepid water ; wet with two 
quarts of broth and two quarts of water ; boil slowly, scum, cover, and 
boil again ; take out the meats as soon as they are done ; remove the 
parsley, and rub the broth and vegetables through a fine sieve ; put 
the residue in a stewpan ; add a pint of marsala wine and more broth 
if required ; boil half an hour and skim well ; meanwhile pare 
and cut in thin slices the sausages and breast of partridges ; place 
these in a soup-tureen, pour the boiling soup over, and serve with thin 
toasted slices of bread. 

Fillets of Sole a la Trouville.— Take the fillets of two large 
soles (English sole come occasionally by steamer in winter-time, and 
when fresh are greatly superior to our soft flounder or fluke); trim 
neatly ; fold and flatten slightly ; put into a buttered sautoir, with 



72 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

salt, pepper, nutmeg, two glasses of white wine, and a little broth ; 
cover the sautoir and cook briskly ; drain the fish carefully and 
keep warm ; then put in the sautoir two dozen large oysters, a pint of 
scallops, and a dozen large heads of mushrooms ; cook these all to- 
gether ; drain and keep warm in a strainer covered with a small cloth, 
to prevent them from turning hard and yellow ; thicken the gravy with 
two tablespoonfuls of flour kneaded with two ounces of butter ; boil 
ten minutes and press through a napkin ; dish up the fillets of sole in 
an oval china or plated baking-dish, alternating each one with a large 
oyster ; range the heads of mushrooms on the top, put the rest of the gar- 
nishing in the centre, pour the sauce over all, besprinkle with a handful 
of fresh and fine white bread-crumbs, put small bits of butter atop, and 
bake for two minutes in a very brisk oven, to slightly color the surface 
without boiling the sauce ; serve immediately in the baking-dish placed 
upon another of the same size. 

Potatoes a la Rouennaise. — [No. 292.] 

Small Timbales a la Venitienne. — Butter eight or more small 
timbale-moulds ; besprinkle with scalded pistaches, chopped fine ; fill 
the moulds with a cream chicken force-meat [No. 326] ; place them in 
a sautoir with boiling water to half their height ; set on the fire, cover, 
and let simmer very gently for fifteen minutes ; meanwhile put into a 
saucepan a pint of allemande sauce, with two ounces of fine butter, a 
little cream, and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley ; pour into an 
entree-dish : have the timbales verv hot, turn them on the sauce, and 
serve. 

Rice Croquettes au Parmesan. — [No. 232.] 

Entrecotes of Beef with Anchovy Butter. — Select two large 
and tender entrecotes of beef as explained [No. 26] ; broil them nicely, 
and serve with a cold anchovy butter made as follows : 

Anchovy Butter. — Soak, remove the bones, wipe dry, and pound 
fine eight salted anchovies ; add twice their bulk of hard, fresh butter ; 
mingle well, press forcibly through a fine sieve, add a little more butter, 
and the juice of a lemon ; make small pats, place four on each entrecote. 
and serve before the butter is melted. 

Water-cress Salad. — [No. 33.] 

Creme Bavaroise with Ginger. — Chop fine, pound, and rub 
ihrough a sieve four ounces of candied ginger ; mix with a pint of 
vanilla syrup, and rub again through a finer sieve ; mix with an ounce 
and a half of melted isinglass, and stir on ice until it thickens ; then 
mingle carefully with a quart of cream beaten to a froth ; add a hand- 
ful of ginger cut in small, thin shreds ; pour into a cylindrical mould. 



COOKERY BOOK. 73 

keep on ice until well set, immerse in tepid water, turn into a dish, 
surround with small sugar-iced lady-fingers, and serve. 



No. 42. 

Sunday, February 11. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Rice a la Maintenon. 

Oysters a la Villeroi ; 
Saratoga potatoes. 

Saddle of mutton a la Bretonne ; 
White beans a 1' Espagnole, 

Canvas-back ducks a 1' essence de celeri ; 
Salad of Bermuda potatoes. 

Glace a 1' orange. 

Rice ^ la Maintenon. — Thicken three quarts of chicken-broth 
[No. 310] with three ounces of flour cooked with three ounces of butter ; 
add a bunch of parsley, a leek, a head of celery, and a raw, tender 
chicken ; boil an hour ; take out the chicken, skim off the fat ; 
add a liaison of six yolks of eggs with a glass of cream, two pats of 
butter, and a little nutmeg ; press through a napkin into another stew- 
pan, mix with a pint of rice cooked in broth, and keep warm ; cut the 
breast of the chicken in thin slices, place these in a soup-tureen, pour the 
soup over, and serve. 

Fried Oysters a la Villeroi. — Parboil three dozen large oysters 
in their liquor, with half a pint of veal-broth and an ounce of butter ; 
drain on a sieve ; thicken the gravy with two ounces of flour kneaded with 
two ounces of butter, boil ; add three egg-yolks, salt, pepper, and nut- 
meg ; stir and boil two minutes longer ; mingle the oysters (perfectly well- 
drained) with the sauce, turn into a flat tin pan, and cool ; join the oysters 
in pairs, taking care to have them well overlaid with the sauce ; roll in 
bread-crumbs, dip in beaten eggs, and roll in fresh crumbs again ; smooth 
the surface gently, fry in plenty of hot lard, drain on a cloth ; dish up in 
a circle on a folded napkin ; fill the centre with fried parsley, surround 
with quartered lemons, and serve with a sauce-bowl of tomato sauce. 

Saratoga Potatoes. — [No. 320.] 

Saddle of Mutton a la Bretonne (although a saddle of mutton 
is generally roasted, we think the following way may be tried just once, 
as a saddle is seldom properly cooked in inexperienced hands). — Pare, 
trim, remove the superfluous fat and all the sinews from the uppermost 
fillets of a very fleshy and not too fat saddle of mutton ; attach 
fine shreds of salt pork to the uncovered fillets, tie nicely, and put 
in a large sautoir with sliced carrots, onions, and aromatics ; wet with a 



74 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

quart of white broth and a pint of white wine ; cover with a buttered 
paper, set on the fire, boil ; put in a moderate oven, besprinkle the 
larded part occasionally with the gravy, and cook slowly for about three 
hours ; drain the saddle, strain, and free the gravy of all its fat. 

Sauce a la Bretonne. — Put in a saucepan two ounces of butter 
with two onions cut small ; fry slowly for five minutes ; add a quart of 
espagnole sauce and the gravy from the mutton ; reduce to the proper 
consistency, and finish with two ounces of butter and chopped parsley ; 
pare and dish up the saddle ; pour some of the sauce around, and serve 
with the rest in a sauce-bowl. 

White Beans a 1' Espagnole. — Soak, cook, and prepare some 
white beans as directed [No. 6] ; finish with well-reduced espagnole 
sauce, and serve very hot in a covered vegetable-dish. 

Canvas-back Ducks a 1' Essence de Celeri. — Follow the 
instructions given [Nos. 301 and 322] for the choice and preparation of 
canvas-back ducks ; serve with an essence of celery in a sauce-bowl, and 
currant jelly in a glass dish. 

Essence of Celery. — Wash well, parboil, and drain the green 
stalks of two bunches of celery ; put in a saucepan with salt, pepper, 
a little sugar, two ounces of butter, and a pint of white broth ; boil and 
let simmer gently for an hour ; press the liquid through a napkin, reduce 
with a pint of veloute sauce, add a little pepper and a pat of butter ; 
pour into a sauce-bowl, and serve with the ducks. 

Salad of Bermuda Potatoes. — Proceed as for domestic potatoes 
[No. 132]. 

Glace a 1' Orange. — Prepare a quart of syrup at thirty-two 
degrees (pese-syrop) ; add a pint of orange juice and the rind of three 
oranges ; let infuse for ten minutes, press through a napkin, add a little 
more water till the syrup is reduced to twenty-two degrees ; then freeze, 
mould, and serve as explained in every Sunday bill of fare. 



No. 43. 

Monday, February 12. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Spaghetti and tomato. 

Eel a la Suffren ; 
Croquettes of potatoes. 

Navarin of mutton with vegetables ; 
Oyster-plant with gravy. 

Roast quail with fine crumbs ; 
Dandelion salad. 



Currant-jelly fritters. 



COOKERY BOOK. 75 

Spaghetti and Tomato. — Boil six ounces of spaghetti in 
slightly salted water, for fifteen minutes ; drain on a cloth ; cut 
in inch lengths ; put in a saucepan with two quarts of beef-broth, a 
quart of tomato-puree, and a little sugar ; boil ten minutes longer ; 
skim, pour in a soup-tureen, and serve with grated parmesan cheese 
separately on a plate. 

Eel a la Suffren. — Skin a large, fresh-water eel ; keep the head on, 
cleanse, cut off the fins, wash well, and wipe dry ; with a larding- 
needle attach on each side a row of fillets of anchovies, and a row of 
pickled gherkins, both cut in short, square shreds ; give the eel the 
form of a circle, tying the tail along the head, and skewering it 
across twice to keep it in the right position ; put in a buttered sautoir 
with two ounces of butter, a bunch of parsley, a sliced onion, and a 
pint of rhine wine ; add salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; cover with a buttered 
paper, and cook slowly for an hour, taking care to sprinkle the fish 
once in a while with the gravy ; drain the eel, strain and reduce the 
gravy with a sufficiency of tomato sauce ; finish with two pats of but- 
ter and a pinch of cayenne pepper ; dish up the eel, remove the string 
and skewers ; pour the sauce over, add fanciful cuts of gherkins on the 
edge of the dish, and serve. 

Croquettes of Potatoes. — [No, 75.] 

Navarin of Mutton with Vegetables. — Choose a fleshy 
and not too fat fore-quarter of mutton ; save the chops for further use ; 
remove the superfluous fat, bone the neck and shoulder, and cut in 
square pieces with the breast ; put in a stewpan with four ounces of 
melted fat (butter burns too quickly); fry briskly until nicely browned; 
drain the fat, besprinkle with two ounces of sifted flour, mingle well, 
fry a minute longer, remove to one side, dilute with two quarts of cold 
water and a pint of tomato sauce ; add salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and 
set to boil, stirring once in a while ; then, with a skimmer, transfer the 
pieces of meat into another stewpan; strain the sauce over the meat ; 
add a bunch of parsley, some trimmed carrots and turnips cut small, 
and two dozen small, white onions, lightly sugared and slightly 
browned in frying butter ; boil an hour ; then add some very small 
peeled potatoes, cook half an hour longer, remove the parsley, and 
skim all the fat ; put in a pint of preserved peas (use fresh peas when 
in season) ; boil a few minutes longer, dish up in a pyramidal form ; 
besprinkle with chopped parsley, and serve. 

Oyster-Plant with Gravy. — Serve as directed [No. 14]. 

Roast Quail with Fine Crumbs. — Pick, singe, draw, and truss 
eight quail ; cover the breasts with thin bardes of bacon, and roast on 



'je FRANCO-AMERICAN 

the spit or in the oven for about twenty minutes ; fry a light brown 
two handfuls of fresh white-bread crumbs in clarified butter ; dish up 
the quail, and spread the crumbs over ; mix two ounces of cold maitre 
d' hotel sauce [No. 276] with two tablespoonfuls of meat-gravy ; pour 
round the birds, and serve with a heap of water-cress on both ends of 
the dish. 

Dandelion Salad. — [No. 90.] 

Currant- Jelly Fritters. — Sandwich a cut of currant jelly a 
sixth-of-an-inch thick, between three-inch round cuts of wafer-bread ; 
make sixteen of these ', press gently to make them adhere closely together 
without pushing the jelly out ; dip in flour-batter, made light with white 
of eggs beaten to a froth ; fry quickly in plenty of very hot lard ; drain 
on a cloth, roll in powdered sugar ; dish up on a napkin, and serve 
hot. 



No. 44. 

Tuesday, February 13. — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup : Semoule au consomme. 

Fried pickerel, tomato sauce ; 
Potato cakes. 



Civet of hare ; 
Stewed celery a la fermiere. 

Saddle of mutton, English style ; 
Doucette and beet salad. 

Gele'e au Made re. 

Semoule au Consomme. — Into three quarts of boiling con- 
somme [No. 133] let drop like rain a pint of semoule, stirring all the 
while ; remove to the side ; boil slowly for half an hour ; skim well, 
pour into a soup-tureen, and serve with a plate of grated parmesan 
cheese. 

Fried Pickerel, Tomato Sauce.— Scale, cleanse, wash well, 
wipe dry, and make small incisions in both sides of four good-sized 
pickerel ; dip in cold milk, roll in flour and fry well done and slightly 
brown in plenty of hot lard (be certain to have lard enough so that the 
fish may float freely while frying) ; drain on a cloth, salt, dish up on 
a folded napkin, surround with fried parsley, and serve with a bowl of 
tomato sauce. 

Potato Cakes.— [No. 302.] 

Civet of Hare.— Skin, paunch, and cut a large english or two 
Canadian hares in pieces ; put in a stewpan four ounces of butter, with 



COOKERY BOOK. yj 

half a pound of streaky salt pork, cut in squares ; fry slightly brown, add 
the hare, and fry briskly five minutes longer ; besprinkle with two 
ounces of sifted flour, mingle well, dilute with a bottle of red wine and 
broth enough to cover ; add pepper, grated nutmeg, and a bunch of 
parsley, but no salt ; set to boil, cover, and cook slowly for an hour ; fry 
slightly brown and partly done, in clarified butter with a little sugar, 
two dozen of small onions ; add these to the hare with half a pound of 
fresh mushrooms (they can be bought all the year round in our markets), 
well washed and neatly pared ; boil twenty minutes longer ; remove the 
parsley, skim off the fat, taste, add a little salt if necessary ; dish up the 
hare and garnishing with a skimmer ; should the hare have any blood, 
mix it with the sauce ; stir on the fire without boiling, pour over, 
and serve with heart-shaped croutons fried in butter and ranged around 
the base. 

Stewed Celery a la Fermi^re. — Remove the green stalks, pare, 
wash well, and parboil eight large heads of celery ; put into a stewpan 
with a quart of broth, pepper, and eight slices of corned pork ; cook an 
hour, drain the pork and celery, strain and free the broth of its fat, 
thicken with an ounce of flour kneaded with an ounce of butter ; stir, 
boil, and reduce to proper consistency ; dish up the celery, alternating 
each head with a slice of pork ; pour the sauce over, and serve. 

Saddle of Mutton, English Style. — Pare a small, fat, and 
mature saddle of southdown or Canadian short-breed mutton ; remove 
the thin skin that covers the fat ; make small semi-longitudinal incis- 
ions in the fatty surface, to prevent cracking while cooking ; remove 
the kidneys and most of the inside suet ; tie firmly with strings to keep 
in proper shape, and roast on the spit or in a pretty hot oven about an 
hour and a half ; drain and let stand for ten minutes (never serve dark 
roasted meats without letting stand some time, for the fibres to relax) ; 
remove all the fat from the dripping-pan, put some good gravy in the 
pan and a little salt ; dish up the saddle, strain, and put the gravy in a 
sauce-bowl, and serve with a glass of currant jelly turned on a plate. 

Doucette and Beet Salad. — [No. 51.] 

Gelee au Mad^re. — Clarify a quart of jelly with an ounce and a 
half of gelatine, twelve ounces of sugar, and the juice of two lemons as 
explained [No. 2] ; cool partially in a kitchen-basin ; add a pint of 
madeira wine, pour all into a cylindrical copper jelly-mould ; set in a 
cool place for about three hours, or, what is better, overnight ; im- 
merse in tepid water, wipe the mould, turn on a small dessert napkin 
placed on a dish, and serve. 



78 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 45. 

LENTEN DINNER. 

Wednesday, February 14. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Puree of Jerusalem artichokes. 

Turban of fillets of sole with oysters ; 
Potatoes a la villageoise. 

Vol-au-vent a la Macedoine ; 
Croquettes of semoule. 

Darne of salmon, tartar sauce ; 
Celery in glass. 

Pudding a la Humboldt. 

Puree of Jerusalem Artichokes. — Peel, slice, and fry slightly 
in butter about three dozen Jerusalem artichokes ; besprinkle with two 
lablespoonfuls of flour, dilute with three quarts of boiled milk, add a 
little sugar and nutmeg, cook half an hour ; press through a sieve, boil 
again ; finish with a liaison of six egg-yolks and two ounces of butter 
in small bits ; mix well, boil no longer ; serve with small crofltons fried 
in butter and put in the soup at the last moment. 

Turban of Fillets of Sole with Oysters.— Take the fillets of 
three good-sized soles (flounders) ; flatten slightly, inlay each fillet on 
one side with a thin layer of fish force-meat [No. 12] ; fold over, sea- 
son, and overlay with a little more force-meat ; range the fillets in a 
circle in a well-buttered border-mould ; add more force-meat, if neces- 
sary, to fill the border ; put in a sautoir with a little water, cover with 
a buttered paper, and cook slowly for an hour ; meanwhile, cook two 
dozen large oysters with their liquor, a pint of fish-broth, and a piece of 
butter ; drain the oysters and thicken the liquid with two ounces of 
flour cooked in butter ; boil and finish with three egg-yolks, two pats of 
butter, white and red pepper, grated nutmeg, and the juice of a lemon ; 
put the oysters in a saucepan and press the sauce through a napkin 
over them ; turn the border on a dish, remove the butter and liquid 
that may come out ; pour the oysters in the centre and some of the 
sauce over the fish ; besprinkle with chopped parsley, and serve. 

Potatoes a la Villageoise. — [No. 5.] 

Vol-au-vent a la Macedoine. — Make a vol-au-vent of puff -paste 
[feuilletage. No. 278] ; prepare a garnishing a la Macedoine [No. 352] ; 
fill the vol-au-vent with it ; add a small head of cauliflower, surrounded 
with a few heads of mushrooms atop ; pour a little bechamel sauce over, 
cover, and serve on a folded napkin. 

Croquettes of Semoule. — Cook slowly a quart of semoule with 



COOKERY BOOK. 79 

three pints of milk, a little butter, white pepper, and nutmeg ; add 
three egg-yolks and two handfuls of grated parmesan cheese, put 
into a dish and let cool ; then turn on a table bestrewn with grated 
cheese ; cut in any shape, dip in beaten eggs, roll in bread-crumbs, 
and fry slightly brown in clarified butter ; dish up on a folded napkin, 
and serve. 

Dame of Salmon, Tartar Sauce. — Boil a middle cut of salmon, 
weighing about five pounds, with a bunch of parsley, in salted water 
acidulated with vinegar ; let cool in the water, drain, remove the skin, 
place on a dish ; mask with tartar sauce [No. 83] ; surround with quar- 
tered hardboiled eggs, hearts of lettuce, and stoned olives ; and serve 
with a bowl of the same sauce. 

Pudding a la Humboldt. — Scald, blanch, and pound fine half a 
pound of almonds with the white of an egg, and rub forcibly through a 
sieve with a wooden presser ; mingle well, in a kitchen-basin, six egg- 
yolks with half a pound of powdered sugar ; then add together the 
sifted almonds and the whites of four eggs beaten to a froth ; mean- 
while mix a pancake batter [No. 253] ; make about two dozen 
pancakes ; have a plain cylindrical copper sweetmeat mould well 
buttered ; line it with some of the pancakes ; cut the rest of 
them into strips ; overlay each strip with a thin layer of apricot 
marmalade, fold over and range in the mould by layers, alternating each 
one with a thin layer of the almond preparation, finishing with pan- 
cakes ; put the mould in a stewpan with boiling water to half its height ; 
cover and steam slowly for an hour ; drain, turn on a dish, let rest 
awhile ; remove the mould, pour an apricot sauce [No. 34] over, and 
serve 



No. 46. 

Thursday, February 15. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Bisque of partridge a la Viennoise. 

Broiled eels, ravigote sauce ; 
Potatoes a la Bordelaise. 

Leg of mutton a la Provenfale 
String-beans sautes; 

Fillets of hare a la Sicilienne ; 
Oyster-plant salad. 

Baked apples a la Bourdaloue. 

Bisque of Partridge ^ la Viennoise. — Cook a pint of sago in 
three quarts of game-broth [No. 329] ; chop fine and pound to a pulp 



8o FRANCO-AMERICAN 

the meat of two cold, roasted partridges ; dilute carefully with the 
cooked sago and a pint of cream ; rub through a fine sieve ; put the 
residue in a saucepan, stir continually and heat without boiling ; pour 
into a soup-tureen ; add some cooked macaroni cut in inch-lengths, and 
serve very hot. 

Broiled Eels, Ravigote Sauce. — Skin, draw, and cleanse two 
large eels ; cut in five-inch lengths ; cook in a saucepan with salt, 
aromatics, a sliced onion, a bunch of parsley, a glass of vinegar, and 
water enough to cover ; boil twenty miuutes, let cool a little ; drain, 
and press lightly between two tin sheets with a light weight on top ; 
pare both ends, roll in pulverized crackers, dip in eggs well seasoned 
and beaten with two tablespoonfuls of salad oil ; roll again in fresh 
bread-crumbs, smooth nicely with the blade of a long knife, baste with 
melted butter, range on a hot gridiron, and broil slowly on charcoal 
embers till slightly brown on all sides ; dish up, surround with quartered 
lemons and serve with a ravigote sauce [No. 256], in a sauce-bowl. 

Potatoes a la Bordelaise. — [No. 304.] 

Leg of Mutton Braised a la Provengale. — Take the hip and 
thigh bones out of a large and not too fat leg of mutton ; attach 
inside well-seasoned shreds of raw ham and bacon ; add salt, pepper, 
and a clove of garlic ; sew the large end, and tie firmly to concentrate 
the seasoning inside ; place in a braisiere with trimmings of lard, slices 
of ham, the cracked mutton bones, sliced onions and carrots, a bunch 
of parsley, and some aromatics ; wet with a pint of white wine and broth 
enough from the surface of the stock-pot to cover the mutton ; put the 
lid on the braisiere, and cook slowly for about three hours ; drain the 
mutton, strain, and free the gravy of its fat, and reduce to the consis- 
tency of a demi-glaze with a pint of tomato sauce ; remove th«i strings, 
■pare and dish up the mutton, ornament the knuckle-bone with a fanci- 
fully cut, white paper cuff ; pour the reduced sauce over, surround with a 
dozen large stuffed mushrooms [No. 106], and serve. 

String-Beans Sautes. — [No. 288.] 

Fillets of Hare ^ la Sicilienne. — Take the large and the 
minion fillets of two hares ; cut the large ones in two, flatten slightly, 
attach on one side of each fillet fine shreds of fat pork, range in a 
buttered sautoir, with the larded side uppermost, and cook slowly and 
slightly brown, in a moderate oven with a glass of white wine ; cut the 
rest of the hares in pieces, and put in a saucepan with three ounces of 
melted butter ; fry five minutes ; add a pint of white wine, a quart of 
espagnole sauce, a bunch of parsley, an onion with three cloves in it, 
and a small stick of cinnamon bark ; boil slowly until nearly done ; re- 



COOKERY BOOK. 8i 

move the onion, cinnamon, and parsley ; add a pint of picked sultana 
raisins, previously soaked in tepid water, and a little sugar ; boil fifteen 
minutes longer, skim off all the fat ; dish up the larded fillets in a circle, 
alternating each fillet with a thin heart-shaped slice of bread fried in 
clarified butter ; put the stewed hare in a pyramidal form in the centre; 
reduce the gravy in the sautoir with the addition of two tablespoonfuls 
of beef extract, pour this over the fillets and serve. 

Oyster-Plant Salad. — Omit the onion and proceed as directed 
[No. ()i\. 

Baked Apples a la Bourdaloue. — Pare, remove the cores, and 
cut in halves a dozen large cooking-apples ; range in a buttered sautoir; 
add the juice of two lemons, some powdered sugar, and pour a little 
melted butter over ; heat on the fire and finish cooking in the oven ; 
range in the form of a dome in a china or plated sweet-meat baking- 
dish ; overlay the surface with peach or apricot marmalade, besprinkle 
with two handfuls of almonds chopped fine in two ounces of sugar, and 
bake long enough to glaze the surface of a bright yellow color. 



No. 47. 

Friday, February i6. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Soft clam. 

Matelote of black bass ; 
Potato croquettes. 

Calf's head k la vinaigrette ; 
Puree of beans with cream. 



Roast grouse, plum sauce ; 
Doucette salad. 

Mecca cakes. 

Soft Clam Soup. — Select four dozen freshly opened soft clams, 
remove the hard parts ; put in a stewpan with sufficient white broth, 
salt, pepper, and ground mace ; boil two minutes ; add two ladlefuls of 
white sauce, a pint of boiled milk and four ounces of butter ; pour 
into a soup-tureen and serve with a plate of butter crackers. 

Matelote of Black Bass. — Have about five pounds of small, 
very fresh black bass ; scale, draw, cut off the heads and fins, wash 
well, wipe dry, and cut up ; put in a saucepan with pepper, a bunch of 
parsley, two cloves of garlic, a bottle of red wine and white broth 
enough to cover ; put on the fire ; cover and boil ten minutes ; with a 
skimmer drain and transfer the fish to another sauce-pan ; cover and 
keep warm ; strain and thicken the gravy with two ounces of flour 



82 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

cooked with two ounces of butter ; stir and boil five minutes ; skim, 
and finish with a tablespoonful of essence of anchovies, four ounces of 
butter in small bits, and the juice of a lemon; press through a napkin over 
the fish ; add two dozen small glazed onions and some heads of mush- 
rooms ; dish up the fish and garnishing in a pyramidal form, pour the 
sauce over, and surround with heart-shaped cro^itons fried in butter. 

Potato Croquettes. — [No. 75.] 

Calf's Head a la Vinaigrette. — Procure a well-scalded and 
very fresh white calf's head ; cook as explained [No. 360] ; drain, dish 
up nicely on a folded napkin, with the tongue on one end and the brain 
on the other ; surround with gherkins and fresh parsley leaves, and 
serve with a bowl of vinaigrette sauce [No. 356]. 

Puree of Beans with Cream. — Cook some white beans as 
explained [No. 6], keeping them pretty thick ; rub through a sieve ; 
dilute with boiled cream and four ounces of butter ; dish up in dome 
form, garnish with triangular croutons fried in butter, and serve. 

Roast Grouse, Plum Sauce. — Take two or more grouse, pick, 
singe, draw, wash inside, truss nicely, and cover the breasts with bardes 
of fat pork ; roast them on the spit or in the oven for about thirty min- 
utes, but rather rare, as most dark meats ought to be when roasted ; 
have ready some imported prunes previously soaked in water and 
cooked with red wine, sugar, and a small piece of cinnamon ; strain and 
take off the fat from the gravy in the dripping-pan ; reduce in a sauce- 
pan with a pint of espagnole sauce and the syrup of the prunes ; press 
through a napkin, then remove the cinnamon and add the prunes to 
the same ; dish up the grouse on slices of toasted bread, add a little 
meat gravy, and serve with the prunes and sauce in a large bowl. 

Doucette Salad.— [No. 81.] 

Mecca Cakes. — Make a sweet *' pate a choux " as follows : Put 
in a saucepan a pint of water, with half a pound of butter, three ounces 
of sugar, and the rind of a lemon ; boil a minute, remove the lemon, add 
at once half a pound of sifted flour ; mingle well and stir vigorously on 
the fire for a few minutes until the paste no longer sticks to the sauce- 
pan ; take from the fire, transfer to another vessel ; stir in, one at a 
time, seven or eight eggs ; have ready a baking-sheet, and, with a table- 
spoon and a knife, place the paste in the shape of a small oval roll, in 
rows about two inches apart ; cover with powdered sugar, let stand two 
minutes ; turn the sheet upside down to drop the sugar that does not 
adhere to the cakes ; bake about ten minutes in a moderate oven, and 
serve cold. 



COOKERY BOOK. . 83 

No. 48. 

Saturday, February 17. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Rice and julienne. 

Fillets of weakfish in cases ; 
Potatoes a la Vaudoise. 

Sweetbreads a 1' Espagnole ; 
Celery-knobs with gravy. 

Roast capon with cress ; 
Beet and onion salad. 

Pear Charlotte. 

Rice and Julienne. — Prepare five pints of julienne soup as 
directed [No. 255]; add a pint of rice boiled in broth ; boil a few min- 
utes longer; pour in a soup-tureen, and serve. 

Fillets of Weakfish in Cases. — Trim nicely the fillets of four 
weakfish ; make eight small oblong paper caisses (cases) four inches 
long, two and a half wide, and one and a half deep ; oil, and spread a 
little force-meat in the bottom of each one ; cut each fillet in two, 
season with salt and pepper, put in the cases over the force-meat ; add 
chopped shallots, parsley, and mushrooms ; besprinkle with bread- 
crumbs ; add small bits of butter atop ; place on a fine wire-grate in a 
baking-pan, and bake slowly in a moderate oven for about twenty-five 
minutes, taking care that the paper does not burn ; dish up, pour two 
tablespoonfuls of well-reduced veloute sauce in the cases around the 
fish ; squeeze a lemon over, and serve very hot in the cases. 

Potatoes ^ la Vaudoise. — [No. 338.] 

Sweetbreads a 1' Espagnole. — Trim eight heart sweetbreads; 
soak three hours, parboil, cool, and press in a cloth between two tin 
sheets with a heavy weight atop ; lard with fine shreds of fat pork, and 
cook as directed [No. 343] ; drain the sweetbreads, remove the grease 
from the sautoir, add a pint of espagnole, two ladlefuls of tomato sauce, 
and a glass of sherry wine ; reduce to the desired consistency ; dish up 
the sweetbreads, leaning against a centre-piece of fried bread (crous- 
tade) made fast in the centre of the dish ; put the nicest on top of the 
croustade ; press the sauce through a napkin, pour into the dish around 
the sweetbreads ; garnish with fried heart-shaped croutons, and serve. 

Stewed Celery-Knobs with Gravy. — Boil some celery-knobs 
(roots) in salted water ; peel, cut in slices, put in a saucepan with two 
ladlefuls of espagnole sauce, a little gravy, butter, pepper, and a tea- 
spoonful of sugar ; mingle well by tossing the saucepan carefully with- 
out breaking the celery, and serve. 

Roast Capon with Cress. — Select a fat, plump, and tender 



84 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

capon ; prepare and roast as directed [No. lo]; dish up, surround with 
water-cress seasoned with salt and vinegar ; add a little broth to the 
drippings, skim the fat, strain, and serve in a sauce-bowl along with the 
capon. 

Beet and Onion Salad.— [No. 88.] 

Pear Charlotte. — Line the bottom of a plain copper charlotte- 
mould with a round thin slice of bread notched on one side, and dip 
that side in lukewarm clarified butter ; line the sides with the same 
similarly prepared, the slices being inch wide, placed perpendicularly, 
and reaching to the top, with the notched sides against the mould ; let 
the slices overlap each other slightly ; drain and cut in slices some 
California canned pears (they are the best and cheapest); stir on the 
fire with a wooden spoon until very stiff ; taste, and add sugar, if 
necessary ; cool a little ; fill the prepared charlotte-mould with the 
pears, cover with another round slice of bread also dipped in butter ; 
put in a baking-pan, cover the charlotte, and cook in a pretty hot oven 
twenty minutes ; turn into a dish ; let stand awhile with the mould on ; 
wipe off the butter that may come out; remove the mould; have a sauce 
made with the syrup of the pears reduced with four tablespoonfuls of 
peach or apricot marmalade ; pour some around the charlotte, be- 
sprinkle the top with fine sugar, and serve with the rest of the sauce in 
a sauce-bowl. 



No. 49. 
Sunday, February i8. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Game-broth a la Tyrolienne. 

Deviled crabs ; 
Lyonnaise potatoes. 

Capon-pullet au gros sel ; 
Haricots-flageolets. 

Roast ham, English style ; 
Lobster salad, plain dressing. 

Bombe a la Souveraine. 

Game-Broth h. la Tryrolienne.— Prepare and keep warm three 
quarts of game-broth [No. 329] ; make a pate a choux preparation as 
directed for mecca cakes [No. 47], but without sugar, and rather firm ; 
cool, turn on a floured table, divide and roll about the thickness of 
large macaroni ; cut in short pea-like pieces ; put in a large sieve with 
a handful of flour, shake the sieve briskly to make the pieces of paste 
round ; fry slightly brown in a large frying-pan with plenty of hot 



COOKERY BOOK. 85 

grease, and drain on a cloth ; pour the broth in a tureen, and serve with 
the pea-shaped crusts separately on a plate. 

Deviled Crabs. — Cook some hard-shelled crabs, and make a 
stuffing as directed [No. 363], with a little more red pepper and Worces- 
tershire sauce ; bake the same way, and serve on a folded napkin, with a 
deviled sauce [No. 109] in a sauce-bowl. 

Lyonnaise Potatoes. — [No. 6.] 

Capon-Pullet, au gros sel. — Choose a large, fat, well-fed, and 
tender fowl ; singe, draw, remove the lights, wash inside, wipe 
dry, trim and truss nicely ; cover the breast with slices of peeled lemon 
and bardes of fat pork ; tie with strings ; put in a small braisiere, with 
a bunch of parsley, an onion, and a quart of white broth ; cover her- 
metically, and cook an hour ; drain, remove the lard, lemon, and strings ; 
strain and free the broth of its fat, and reduce to about a gill ; dish 
up the fowl, pour the reduced broth round it, put a tablespoonful of 
coarse kitchen salt en the breast, and serve immediately before the salt 
is melted. 

Haricots-Flageolets. — [No. 35.] 

Roast Ham, English Style. — Pare and soak a ham overnight 
in cold water ; drain, parboil for an hour, and drain again ; roast in a 
mirepoix made as follows : Melt, in a saucepan, four ounces of butter ; 
add sliced carrots, onions, parsley-roots, two sprigs of thyme, two bay- 
leaves, two blades of mace, and a handful of pepper-corns ; fry slowly 
until the moisture is evaporated, dilute with a pint of white wine, and 
reduce to a third ; with three pounds of flour and cold water make a 
thick batter (paste) ; spread on a floured table, place the ham on the 
centre and the reduced mirepoix atop ; wet the edge, infold the ham in 
the paste, make a small hole in the centre of the surface, and roast in a 
moderate oven for about three hours, according to the size of the ham ; 
break up the crust of paste, trim, remove the rind, and dish up the ham ; 
ornament the hock-bone with a fanciful white-paper cuff, and serve with 
a sauce-bowl of madeira sauce. 

Lobster Salad, Plain Dressing. — Boil and let cool two lobsters ; 
take the meat from the tails and claws, slice fine, and put in a basin 
with salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar ; pick, wash, and drain well four heads 
of lettuce ; save the hearts, slice the leaves, and put them in a salad- 
bowl ; add the sliced lobster ; surround with quartered hard-boiled 
eggs and the hearts of lettuce ; range a few fillets of anchovies over the 
lobster ; add a few capers and stoned olives ; pour a little more sweet 
oil and vinegar over, and serve, mixing only at the last moment. 

Bombe a la Souveraine. — Line a high, dome-shaped ice-cream 



86 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

mould with fine white paper, place in ice, mask the sides and bottom 
with a thin coating of almond ice-cream [No. 28], and fill the hollow 
with a mousse made as follows : Put a strong infusion of good tea in a 
saucepan with a pound of sugar, eight egg-yolks, and a pint of milk ; 
stir, and cook till it thickens ; press through a sieve, cool, and mix with 
a quart of cream beaten to a froth ; cover hermetically, put in a pail of 
salted ice for three hours, and serve on a base of sponge-cake prepared 
for the purpose. 



No. 50. 

Monday, February 19. — Bill of fare for eight persons: 
Soup : Vegetable a la bourgeoise. 

Baked stuffed haddock ; 
Stewed potatoes. 

Beef glazed with cabbage ; 
Stewed lazagnes. 

Lievre en gate (cold potted hare); 
Lettuce salad. 

Apricot fritters. 

Vegetable ^ la Bourgeoise. — Put in a soup-pot a six-pound 
rump piece of beef, a little salt, and a pound of salt pork, with eight 
quarts of water ; heat slowly, scum well, and boil an hour and a half ; 
add two heads of savoy cabbage scored and cut in quarters, two carrots, 
two turnips, an onion with three cloves in it, two leeks tied with parsley- 
roots, and a head of celery : scum again and let simmer gently for two 
hours longer ; put thin slices of bread in a soup-tureen ; drain and slice 
the carrots and turnips and half a head of cabbage, add these to the 
bread ; free three quarts of broth of its fat, and strain over the vegeta- 
bles ; cover, and serve. 

Baked Stuffed Haddock. — Scale, cleanse, wash well a six-pound 
haddock, taking care to remove the blood-vein inside of the fish along 
the spinal bone ; remove the head and cut the tail short ; make a stuffing 
with six ounces of stale bread soaked in cold water, and well pressed, 
two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion, one of parsley, three egg-yolks, 
two ounces of butter, salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg ; fill the haddock, 
sew the aperture ; tie only tight enough to keep the stuffing inside ; put in 
an oval, buttered baking-dish with more chopped onion and parsley and 
small bits of butter atop ; moisten with half a pint of white wine and 
half a pint of white broth ; cover with a buttered paper, and cook in a 
moderate oven for thirty minutes, taking care to baste the fish once in a 
while with the gravy ; drain, and reduce the gravy with a pint of thick 



COOKERY BOOK. Zj 

velout6 sauce [No. 274] ; pour over the fish ; besprinkle with fresh 
bread-crumbs, put small bits of butter over, and bake twenty minutes 
longer; squeeze the juice of a lemon over, and serve in the baking-dish. 

Stewed Potatoes.— [No. 81.] 

Beef Glazied with Cabbage. — One hour before dinner-time drain 
the beef from the soup-pot, put in a large saucepan with two ladlefuls 
of the fat from the soup ; baste the surface with melted beef-extract, 
and let simmer uncovered in a moderate oven for about half an hour ; 
pare, dish up, surround with the rest of the cabbage and pork cut in 
slices, and serve with a bowl of tomato sauce. 

Stewed Lazagnes.— [No. 92.] 

Lievre en Gite (Cold Potted Hare). — Skin, paunch, and bone a 
large english or two american hares ; break the bones, put them in a sauce- 
pan with a knuckle of veal, some vegetables and aromatics, and twp 
quarts of broth ; cover, and boil slowly for two hours, so as to obtain 
about a pint of strong essence of game ; remove the grease, strain, and 
keep aside till wanted ; line an oval baking-tureen (in France we have 
tureen-gites, made for the purpose ; they are very appropriate, the 
cover representing a hare lying at rest) with thin bardes of fat pork ; 
put in the bottom a layer of fine sausage-meat ; spread the hare on the 
table, season, and range inside layers of sausage-meat alternately with 
slices of veal, ham, lard, and some of the meat from the hind legs of the 
hare ; when sufficiently filled turn the hare in the prepared tureen, the 
large fillets uppermost ; moisten with a glass of sherry wine and part of 
the essence of game ; cover with more bardes of pork, put two bay-leaves 
atop ; cover the tureen as air-tight as possible, place it in a baking-pan, 
cook slowly in a moderate oven for about two hours and a half ; let 
cool partially, then fill to the edge with the remaining essence of game ; 
put in the larder to cool thoroughly overnight ; cleanse the tureen and 
cover nicely ; remove the bay-leaves, and serve cold in the covered 
tureen, placed on a folded napkin in an oval dish. 
Lettuce Salad.— [No. 98.] 

Apricot Fritters. — Open and drain well a quart-can of apricots 
on a hair-sieve ; dip them in a flour batter [No. 5], and drop them one 
by one in plenty of very hot frying-fat ; drain on a cloth, dish up on a 
folded napkin, besprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve. 



88 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 51. 

Tuesday, February 20, — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Pilaf au consomme. 

Scalloped halibut au Parmesan ; 
Baked mashed potatoes. 

Pork chops, apple sauce ; 
Timbale of macaroni. 



Salmi of grouse a 1' Ecossaise ; 
Beet and doucette salad. 



Gelee au rhurn. 

Pilaf au Consomme. — Wash well and drain a pint and a half of 
rice, and put in a saucepan with a quart of beef-broth, two ladlefuls of 
tomato sauce, and a little salt ; stir, boil, cover, and cook for twenty 
minutes ; add six ounces of boiling-hot clarified butter, and mix well 
and quickly with a wooden spoon ; cover the saucepan with a cloth, 
put a plate over, and let the rice Sweat for ten minutes, that it may ab- 
sorb the butter without breaking ; turn in a hollow dish, and send to 
table with two quarts of beef-broth in a soup-tureen and grated parme- 
san cheese on a plate. 

Scalloped Halibut au Parmesan. — Cut in thin slices four 
pounds of halibut meat ; range in a buttered sautoir with salt, pepper, 
nutmeg, and a little chopped onion ; cover, cook slowly, and then drain ; 
add to the sautoir two ounces of flour kneaded with two ounces of but- 
ter ; dilute with a quart of milk ; stir and boil ; thicken with four egg- 
yolks and two ounces of grated cheese ; stir again and boil a minute 
longer ; put in a plated or china buttered baking-dish a layer of fish, and 
cover it with sauce, then another layer of fish, and so on until the whole 
is used ; give a dome form, and finish with sauce ; cover with two 
handfuls of grated cheese mingled with the same quantity of fresh 
bread-crumbs ; drop small bits of butter atop, and bake till slightly 
browned, in a moderate oven. 

Baked Mashed Potatoes. — [No. 15.] 

Pork Chops, Apple Sauce. — Cut, prepare, season, roll in 
bread-crumbs, and broil eight or more pork chops ; dish up in a circle, 
alternating with heart-shaped slices of bread fried in butter ; ornament 
each chop bone with a small white-paper cuff (this is an ornament, but 
it also helps to separate the meat easily from the bone, without greasing 
the fingers) ; pour some apple sauce in the centre, and serve with more 
sauce in a bowl. 

Apple Sauce. — Peel, cut in quarters, remove the cores, and slice a 
dozen large cooking-apples ; put in a buttered saucepan with a glass of 



COOKERY BOOK. 89 

water, cover, and cook slowly for about twenty minutes ; add four 
ounces of sugar, and press through a hair-sieve. Sauce prepared in this 
way ought to be white, stiff, and sweet enough to be served with meat. 

Timbale of Macaroni. — Boil about half a pound of macaroni in 
salted water, with a little butter, for twenty minutes ; drain while hot ; 
put in a saucepan with a pint of allemande sauce, salt, pepper, nutmeg, 
four ounces of butter, two ounces each of grated gruyere and parmesan 
cheese ; butter a plain copper timbale-mould of adequate size ; ornament 
the bottom and sides with fanciful cuts of nouille paste [No. 302], wet 
these with a paste-brush, then line the mould with a fourth-of-an-inch- 
thick layer of short paste [No. 351] ; fill the hollow with the prepared 
macaroni, wet the edge, and cover with another layer of paste ; press 
gently with the thumbs and forefingers to make the cover adhere to the 
edge ; place the mould in a baking-pan, cover with a buttered paper, 
and bake in a moderate oven for about fifty minutes ; turn into a round 
entree-dish ; let stand awhile ; take the mould off, surround with a little 
of well- reduced allemande sauce, and serve. 

Salmi of Grouse a 1' Ecossaise. — Roast three grouse, divide 
and pare nicely ; then with the parings and drippings make a bigarade 
sauce as directed [No. 345] ; dish up the grouse on a large flat of fried 
bread, pour the sauce over and around ; garnish the dish with sliced 
orange, and serve. 

Beet and Doucette Salad. — Cook thoroughly some red beets ; 
cool, peel, and cut in thin slices ; pick, wash, and drain well some 
doucette (corn salad) ; put in a salad-bowl, range the sliced beets over 
the doucette ; season with salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar ; and mix at 
the last moment. 

Gelee au Rhum. — Clarify three pints of sweet jelly [No. 2] ; cool 
partially ; add a gill of Jamaica rum ; pour into a mould, cool thor- 
oughly, and serve. 



No. 52. 

Wednesday, February 21. — Bill of fare for eight persons 

Soup : Rice and curry. 

Boiled pike, horseradish sauce ; 
Potatoes a la Hollandaise. 

Breast of veal a la bourgeoise ; 
Stewed beets a I'Americaine. 

Young pig a la Rouennaise ; 
Chicory salad. 

Croustade of apples. 



90 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Rice and Curry Soup. — Melt in a saucepan four ounces of 
butter, with a chopped onion and some raw ham sliced fine ; fry three 
minutes ; add two tablespoonfuls of curry-powder and two ounces of 
flour; mingle well ; dilute with three quarts of beef-broth, boil an hour, 
skim, and pass through a fine strainer into another saucepan ; add a 
pint of rice cooked in broth, boil five minutes, skim again, and serve. 

Boiled Pike, Horseradish Sauce. — Choose a large pike, scale, 
draw, and cleanse well ; put on a grate in a fish-kettle ; cover with 
salted water acidulated with vinegar, add a bunch of parsley ; cover 
the kettle and cook slowly ; drain, slide on a folded napkin, surround 
with parsley, and serve with the following sauce : 

Horseradish Sauce. — Knead an ounce of flour with an ounce 
of mellow butter ; dilute with a pint and a half of boiling cream, stir, 
and boil two minutes ; press through a napkin ; finish with a little salt, 
four ounces of table butter, and three tablespoonfuls of freshly-grated 
horseradish ; mix well, pour into a sauce-bowl, and serve with the fish. 

Breast of Veal a la Bourgeoise. — Put in a stewpan three 
ounces of butter with two ounces of flour ; stir on the fire with a 
wooden spoon until the flour is browned, add about four pounds of 
breast of veal cut in eight or more pieces ; fry a little longer, stirring 
all the while to stiffen the meat ; put enough tepid water to cover the 
meat, stir again, and boil ; add salt, pepper, andabunchof parsley (No. 
327); garnish with six carrots cut small and pared, and two dozen small 
white onions slightly sugared and browned in frying-butter ; cover, and 
cook slowly about an hour ; remove the parsley, skim the fat ; see that the 
sauce is reduced enough ; dish up in a pyramidal form, surround with 
the carrots and onions, and serve. 

Stewed Beets a 1' Americaine. — Cook some beets ; peel while 
hot, slice, and put in a saucepan with salt, pepper, some melted (but not 
boiled) butter, and a little vinegar ; heat well without boiling, and serve 
in a covered vegetable-dish. 

Roast Young Pig a la Rouennaise. — Procure a well-scalded, 
cleansed, and dressed white sucking-pig ; singe, to destroy the remain- 
ing hairs ; boil the harslet in water for ten minutes, cool, drain, and 
chop very fine ; put in a basin with two chopped and pressed onions, 
two ounces of butter, two eggs, four ounces of fresh white bread-crumbs, 
salt, pepper, a tablespoonful of finely bruised sage-leaves, and chopped 
parsley ; mix well ; fill the pig ; sew up the aperture ; place and make 
the pig fast on the spit ; baste with oil ; put a few sprigs of sage in the 
dripping-pan, and roast slowly for about two hours and a half ; dish up, 
add some broth to the drippings, remove the grease, strain, and serve 
in a sauce-bowl with a dish of apple sauce. 



COOKERY BOOK. 91 

Croustade of Apples. — With some short-paste line a well-buttered, 
high, large tart-mould ; fill it with dried flour, and cook in a moderate 
oven for twenty minutes ; remove and brush off the flour ; egg the 
inside, and bake a little longer to dry the paste ; fill partly with very 
stiff, sweetened apple sauce ; garnish with eight or more peeled apples j 
cored and cooked whole in syrup ; ornament with raisins and fanciful 
cuts of angelica and citron ; reduce the syrup with two tablespoonfuls 
of apricot or peach marmalade ; cool, pour over the apples, and serve 
cold on a folded napkin. 



No. 53. 

Thursday, February 22. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Chicken a la Sontag. 

Boiled carp a la Romaine ; 
Boiled and browned potatoes. 

Partridges a la Parisienne ; 
Stewed tomatoes. 



Roast ribs of beef, English style ; 
Apple and cress salad. 

Couronne of brioche. 



Chicken ^ la Sontag. — Singe, draw, and cut in pieces a large 
chicken, and put it in a saucepan with four ounces of butter, a chopped 
onion, and four ounces of raw ham sliced fine ; fry five minutes without 
coloring ; besprinkle with three ounces of flour ; dilute with three 
quarts of chicken broth ; boil an hour ; drain, and transfer the chicken 
to a tureen ; press the soup through a napkin into another saucepan ; 
add four leeks cut in short shreds and fried in butter, and a pint of rice 
cooked in white broth ; boil a few minutes longer, skim, pour 
over the chicken, and serve. 

Boiled Carp d la Romaine. — Scale and cleanse one large or two 
medium-sized Hudson-river carp ; put on the grate in a fish-kettle with 
sliced vegetables, aromatics, red wine, and water enough to cover the 
fish ; cook slowly, drain, slide on a folded napkin, surround with pars- 
ley, and serve with the following sauce : 

Sauce d la Romaine. — Put to soak in a saucepan with tepid water 
two ounces of currants and two ounces of sultana raisins, drain and mix 
with four ounces of pignolis (Italian pine-seeds) ; then cook slightly 
brown three ounces of powdered sugar, moisten with a glass of white-wine 
vinegar ; add a pint of well-reduced espagnole sauce, and some gravy from 
the fish ; reduce to the desired consistency, press through a napkin over 



92 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

the raisins and pignolis, and serve in a sauce-bowl along with the 
fish. 

Partridges Braised d la Parisienne. — Pick, draw, singe, wash 
well, and truss nicely four partridges ; put in a saucepan with four 
ounces of butter ; fry briskly for five minutes, drain off the butter ; add 
a pint of espagnole sauce, half a pint of white wine, and some beef- 
broth ; cover, and cook slowly for about forty minutes ; drain, remove 
the strings, dish up, each partridge leaning against a piece of fried 
bread made fast in the centre of the dish ; press the sauce through 
a napkin, add the juice of a lemon, four ounces of butter in small 
bits, a little pepper, and two dozen heads of mushrooms ; pour the 
sauce and mushrooms over and around the partridges, and serve. 

Roast Ribs of Beef, English Style. — Procure a two-rib thick 
piece of fat, tender beef ; pare, and truss firmly ; then roast and serve 
as directed [No. 268] for loin of beef. 

Apple and Cress Salad (this is a Norman preparation, much used 
in winter, and may be tried advantageously in this country when the 
other salads are scarce). — Pick, wash, and drain well some water-cress, 
and put it in a salad-bowl ; peel, core, cut in halves, and slice fine 
four large sour apples ; range these over the cress, season in the or- 
dinary way, and mix at the last moment. 

Couronne of Brioche (brioche paste). — Sift on the table a pound 
of flour, take a quarter of it (four ounces), make a hollow in the centre, 
add half an ounce of concentrated yeast, and enough warm water to 
make a thick dough ; knead well, put in a small basin with some 
warm water, cover, and let rise for about half an hour in a warm closet ; 
meanwhile form a hollow in the rest of the flour, put in half an 
ounce of sugar, half an ounce of salt, two tablespoonfuls of water, 
half a pound of mellow butter and four eggs ; mix and work well for five 
minutes ; add two more eggs, work again ; still two more eggs and 
mix well, pushing the dough back and forth on the table with the palms 
of the hands, cutting with the thumbs and forefingers and striking on 
the front of the table (this operation should be repeated three times) ; 
then add the raised dough, mix the two preparations thoroughly, and 
place in a floured cloth (or in a basin) for four hours, in a warm 
place ; when the paste has risen to about twice its original proportions, 
turn it upon a floured table, fold it over three or four times, return to the 
floured cloth, and keep in a cool place for two hours longer ; then 
turn on the floured table again, roll, and make a hole in the centre with 
the elbow ; spread with the hands, put on a buttered, round baking- 
sheet, cut small incisions in the surface and egg it, then bake in a pretty 
hot oven for about half an hour ; cool, and serve on a folded napkin. 



COOKERY BOOK. 93 

No. 54. 

Friday, February 23. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup au lait d' amandes. 

Stewed perch a la Stanley ; 
Potatoes a la Bordelaise. 



Calf's brain in marinade ; 
Celery a la Villeroi. 

Roast larded Guinea-fowls ; 
Lettuce salad a la Parisienne. 



Timbale of apples. 

Soup au Lait d' Amandes. — Scald and blanch a pound of almonds 
and a few bitter ones ; pound fine, dilute with a quart of milk, and press 
it out through a napkin ; boil two quarts of milk with a pinch of salt 
and two ounces of sugar ; add the almond-milk, pour into a soup- 
tureen, and serve with a plate of croHtons prepared as follows : Cut in 
thin slices, then in lozenges, about four ounces of white bread ; put on a 
baking-sheet, besprinkle with powdered sugar, and glaze slightly brown 
in a brisk oven for a minute. 

Perch ^ la Stanley. — Cleanse thoroughly four large perch, put 
in a sautoir with butter, a small bunch of parsley, salt, pepper, a pint of 
rhine wine, and a pint of white broth ; cook slowly, drain, and keep 
warm ; thicken the gravy with an ounce and a half of flour kneaded 
with butter ; boil, finish with a liaison of four egg-yolks, four ounces of 
butter, the juice of a lemon, and a little red lobster-butter, to give the 
sauce a light pink tint ; press through a napkin ; dish up the fish ; gar- 
nish with some cooked oysters, sliced lobster, and a few heads of mush- 
rooms ; pour the sauce over, surround with eight large crayfish, and 
serve. 

Calf's Brain in Marinade. — Cook four calves' brains as directed 
[No. 35] ; cool, drain, pare, and cut each brain in four long pieces ; 
put in a basin and let marinate an hour with salt, pepper, a sliced 
onion, sprigs of parsley and thyme, a bay-leaf, four tablespoonfuls of 
vinegar and one of oil ; drain, dip in a light flour batter, fry slightly 
brown in plenty of hot lard, drain again on a cloth, dish up in a circle 
on a folded napkin, fill the centre with fried parsley, and serve with a 
sauce-bowl of tomato sauce. 

Roast Larded Guinea-Fowls. — Singe, cleanse, and truss nicely 
two guinea-fowls ; immerse the breast in boiling water for about a min- 
ute, to stretch the skin, and thus facilitate larding ; with a larding-needle 
attach to the breast rows of fine and short shreds of fat pork ; roast on 
the spit or in the oven for about forty minutes ; dish up, add a little 



94 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

broth to the drippings, skim off the fat, strain, and serve with the fowls. 

Lettuce Salad a la Parisienne. — Pick, wash, and drain well 
some lettuce, without bruising the leaves ; press forcibly through a sieve 
the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs ; put in a salad-bowl ; dilute with a 
sufificiency of sweet oil ; add the lettuce, some chopped chives, tarra- 
gon, and chervil, salt, pepper, and vinegar, and mix at the last moment. 

Timbale of Apples. — Peel, core, and slice a dozen large cooking 
apples ; cook in a saucepan with the rind of a lemon chopped fine, half 
a pound of sugar, and two ounces of butter ; put on the fire, stir, and 
reduce until very thick ; add a tablespoonful of potato starch (fecula) 
diluted with a little water, mix well, and let cool, and then mix again 
with six egg-yolks ; have a buttered, plain copper charlotte-mould ; 
sprinkle the bottom and sides with fine, fresh, white-bread crumbs ; 
put the apples in till nearly full ; add a few more bread-crumbs and 
small bits of butter on top ; place the mould in a sautoir, and cook 
in a moderate oven for about forty minutes ; turn into a dish, let 
stand ten minutes ; take off the mould, besprinkle with fine sugar, and 
pour round a little currant jelly melted with apple syrup ; serve hot. 



No. 55. 

Saturday, February 24. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Potato with leek. 

Flounders, white-wine sauce ; 
Stewed potatoes. 

Leg of mutton, caper sauce ; 
Boiled turnips au veloute. 

Pork pie, English style ; 
Vegetable salad. 

Cream biscuits with lemon. 

Potato with Leek Soup. — Remove the green parts and roots, 
wash, and cut in short shreds two bunches of leeks ; put in a stewpan 
with four ounces of butter, and fry until slightly browned ; wet with 
two quarts of broth and a quart of water ; add salt, pepper, and about 
eight large potatoes cut small ; boil slowly till the potatoes are cooked 
to a puree ; put about three ounces of thin slices of bread in a soup- 
tureen ; pour the boiling soup over, and serve. 

Flounders, White-Wine Sauce. — Cleanse, scale the white 
side and remove the head and dark skin of one large or two medium- 
sized flounders ; put in a sautoir with two ounces of butter, salt, pepper, 
a pint of white wine, and a little water ; cover, and cook briskly for 



COOKERY BOOK. 95 

twenty minutes ; drain the fish ; thicken the gravy with an ounce of 
flour cooked in butter ; boil again ; dish up the fish, finish the sauce 
with the juice of a lemon and two ounces of table butter ; mingle well, 
pour over the flounders, and serve. 

Boiled Leg of Mutton, Caper Sauce. — Procure a fat, tender, 
six-pound leg of mutton ; pare, boil steadily for an hour and a half in 
plenty of slightly salted water ; drain with a skimmer (be careful not to 
pierce the surface with a fork or any thing sharp, as all the juice would 
in that case certainly be wasted); thicken about a quart of the broth 
with an ounce and a half of flour kneaded with butter ; add salt, pepper, 
and a few drops of vinegar, and press through a napkin ; dish up the 
mutton, pare and ornament the handle-bone with a fancifully cut white 
paper cuff ; pour some of the sauce over and the rest in a sauce-bowl, 
and serve with some capers in a separate plate. 

Boiled Turnips au Veloute. — Pare sufficient white turnips, cut 
in quarters, trim a little, and cook in a saucepan with water, salt, and 
a little butter ; drain them well, return to the saucepan with pepper, 
four ounces of butter in small bits, and two ladlefuls of veloute sauce 
(or sauce from the mutton); let the butter melt, toss a little, and serve 
in a deep dish. 

Cold Pork Pie, English Style. — Butter and place a cold pie- 
mould on a buttered baking-sheet, line the bottom and sides with pie- 
paste as directed [No. 22]; prepare about three pounds of fresh pork 
(fat and lean), remove the sinews, and cut in squares the size of an 
english walnut ; season with salt, pepper, and sage ; add two glasses of 
sherry wine, and let marinate for a while ; put a layer of fine sausage- 
meat in the mould, then half of the pork, then more sausage-meat over 
that, then the rest of the pork, finishing with a thin layer of sausage- 
meat and bardes of salted fat pork ; add a bay-leaf, wet the edge of the 
paste, cover with a thin layer of paste, make it adhere to the edge by 
pressing gently between the thumb and forefingers, trim the edge, and 
pinch it around with a pastry-pincher ; egg the surface, make a hole in 
the centre, and ornament with fanciful cuts of paste ; egg again, and 
cook in a moderate oven for about three hours ; let cool partially, fill 
with meat jelly, then cool thoroughly in the mould, leaving it overnight 
in the larder ; take off the mould, and serve on a folded napkin. 

Cream Biscuits with Lemon. — Put in a basin and work well 
with a wooden spoon six egg-yolks with six ounces of sugar and the rind 
of a lemon chopped fine ; beat the six whites to a froth, mix with the 
yolks ; add four ounces of sifted flour and about a pint of well-whipt 
cream ; mix carefully ; pour this preparation in eight or more oblong 



96 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

white-paper cases, besprinkle with sugar, put on a baking-sheet, and 
bake in a brisk oven for nearly ten minutes; dish up on a napkin, and 
serve hot. 



No. 56. 

Sunday, February 25. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Julienne i la Montpensier. 

English turbot i la Hollandaise ; 
Potatoes a I'Anglaise. 

Tenderloin steaks, sauce piquante ; 
Haricots panaches. 

Chapon truffe ; 
Lettuce salad. 



Mousse au cafe vierge. 

Julienne ^ la Montpensier. — Cut up and cook some vegetables 
as directed [No. 255], with three quarts of chicken-broth, for an hour ; 
skim off the fat, add two handfuls of chiffonnade [No. 266], and boil 
five minutes longer ; prepare the following garnishing : put into a basin 
eight egg-yolks with half a pint of chicken-broth, salt, pepper, and nut- 
meg ; mix and press through a napkin, pour into a slightly buttered 
timbale-mould, and put in a covered saucepan with boiling-water to 
half the height of the mould ; let simmer very slowly for about twenty 
minutes ; in that time the preparation ought to be well -set, but not 
porous (which it would certainly be, if the water were allowed to boil) ; 
cool in the mould, turn out on a wet napkin, and cut in small squares or 
lozenges ; pour the julienne into a soup-tureen, add this preparation, 
and serve. 

English Turbot ^ la Hollandaise (English turbot come 
occasionally to this market, and are generally fresh, for they can be kept 
on ice for a certain length of time without deteriorating). — Procure, if 
possible a medium-sized fat and plump turbot (large ones are always 
stringy and hard) ; cleanse, wash well, wipe dry ; make a longitudinal 
incision in the centre of the back, remove carefully about three inches 
of the central bone, rub a lemon over the white part, and secure the head 
to the body with a string ; put in a fish-kettle of appropriate shape and 
size, white side uppermost ; cover with cold water, add two handfuls of 
salt and put a sheet of white paper over ; put on the fire, boil slowly, 
remove to the side and let simmer for forty minutes ; drain and slide 
upon a board or a large fiat dish filled up level with a board or paper, and 
covered with a napkin ; surround with fresh parsley leaves, and serve 
with some hollandaise sauce [No. 98] in a sauce-bowl. 



COOKERY BOOK. 97 

Potatoes ^ I'Anglaise. — A dish of peeled and boiled potatoes 

must always be served with turbot [No. 293]. 

Tenderloin Steaks, Sauce Piquante. — Procure four or more 
well-sinewed and trimmed tenderloin steaks ; flatten slightly ; season 
with salt and pepper, and fry briskly and rare in a sautoir with clarified 
butter for about fifteen minutes^; drain the steaks, remove the fat, pour 
into the sautoir a piquante sauce [No. 351], boil a few minutes ; dish 
up the steaks, pour the sauce over, ornament the edge of the dish with 
fanciful cuts of pickled gherkins, and serve. 

Haricots Panaches. — [No. 170.] 

Chapon Truffe (truffled capon). — Singe a large and fleshy capon; 
draw carefully and fill with truffles prepared as follows : put in a 
basin a quart of peeled truffles, sliced thick, with their juice ; 
remove the stringy parts ; cut fine and put in a saucepan a pound of 
leaf-lard, with salt and pepper, two bay-leaves, two sliced shallots, a 
clove of garlic, and a sprig of thyme ; stir and melt slowly ; cool par- 
tially, rub through a colander over the truffles ; mingle and let cool 
thoroughly ; fill the capon, truss nicely ; fasten both ends firmly to 
keep the truffles inside, cover with bardes of fat pork, wrap in a sheet of 
thick white paper, tie up with strings, baste with melted butter or lard, 
and cook on the spit or in the oven for an hour and a half ; remove the 
strings, paper, and lard ; dish up, and serve with a rich gravy made with 
the strained drippings and a little broth. 

Lettuce Salad. — [No. 98.] 

Mousse au Cafe Vierge. — Make a parfait au caf6 preparation 
as directed [No. 14] with twice the quantity of whipt cream [No. 77] ; 
mould, cover hermetically, put in a pail of salted ice for at least two 
hours, and serve on a round piece of sponge-cake prepared for the pur- 
pose. 



No. 57. 

Monday, February 26. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Panada with broth. 

Stuffed cod i la Shrewsbury ; 
Baked mashed potatoes. 

Bacon with sour-crout ; 
Boiled parsnips. 

Rump steaks, sauce Chateaubriand ; 
Beet and potato salad. 

Chocolate custard. 
Panada with Broth.— Put in a stewpan three quarts of beef- 



98 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

broth with half a pound of stale broken (not cut) bread ; boil, stir 
occasionally with a wooden spoon ; let simmer half an hour ; the bread 
should be entirely dissolved to a consistency of a thick puree ; pour in 
the soup-tureen, and serve. 

Stuffed Cod a la Shrewsbury. — Choose a very fresh eight- 
pound cod ; draw by the gills, clean the inside thoroughly, wash well 
and wipe dry ; have two dozen large oysters well drained on a cloth ; 
season with salt, pepper, ground mace, and a little red pepper ; add two 
handfuls of pulverized crackers and two ounces of butter in small bits ; 
fill the cod with the prepared oysters ; sew the lower aperture, make the 
head secure to the body, and tie up with strings, so as to keep the 
oysters inside ; put on the grate in a narrow fish-kettle ; add salt, pep- 
per, and a bunch of parsley ; moisten with a pint of broth, a pint of 
water, and the oyster liquor ; put a few small bits of butter atop ; cover 
the kettle ; boil slowly, and let simmer gently on the side of the fire for 
forty minutes, taking care to baste the fish once in a while with the 
gravy ; drain the fish on the grate ; put the gravy in a saucepan ; return 
the fish in the kettle, and keep warm ; thicken the gravy with an ounce 
and a half of flour kneaded with the butter ; if too thick, add a little 
water ; boil ten minutes ; finish with two egg-yolks, two pats of butter, 
and the juice of a lemon ; press through a napkin, add two handfuls of 
small oyster crabs previously boiled in salted water ; dish up the fish, 
pour the sauce over, and serve. 

Baked Mashed Potatoes. — [No. 15.] 

Bacon with Sour-Crout. — Parboil, cool, drain, and press the 
water out of four pounds of sour-crout ; put in a stewpan with two 
quarts of broth and four ladlefuls of the strained surface of the soup- 
pot ; cover as tightly as possible and let simmer for two hours ; 
take off some of the sour-crout, add a four-pound piece of bacon ; 
eight smoked sausages, a carrot, and an onion, with three cloves in it ; 
put the sour-crout back in the stewpan, cover, and cook two hours 
longer ; when ready to serve, put the bacon, sausages, and vegetables 
on a plate, drain the sour-crout in a colander, dish up in a large dish, 
put the bacon thereon, range the sausages and sliced carrot round the 
base, and serve very hot. 

Boiled Parsnips. — Peel, cut in pieces, and boil some parsnips in 
salted water with a little butter ; drain, put in a vegetable-dish, pour 
some white sauce over, and serve. 

Rump Steaks. — Pare, season, and broil two large rump steaks as 
directed [No. 145] ; pour a sauce Chateaubriand over, and serve. 

Sauce Chateaubriand. — Put in a saucepan two glasses of white 



COOKERY BOOK. 99 

wine with two tablespoonfuls of extract of beef and half a pint of 
espagnole sauce ; reduce to the consistency of a demi-glaze sauce, add 
four ounces of butter, white and red pepper, the juice of a lemon, a 
tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and mix well without boiling. 

Beet and Potato Salad. — Make a potato salad [No. 132] with the 
thin-sliced boiled beets. 

Chocolate Custard. — Prepare a dish of custard as directed [No. 
306], but substitute four ounces of melted plain chocolate (cacao) for 
the coffee infusion. 



No. 58. 

Tuesday, February 27. — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup : Puree of black beans a la Puebla. 

Salmon-trout with oyster croquettes ; 
Potatoes a la maitre d' hotel. 



Turkey giblets a la Chipolata ; 
Glazed turnips a 1' Espagnole. 

Toume-dos of beef a la chasseur ; 
Celery sauce remoulade. 

Gelee aux poires. 

Puree of Black Beans a la Puebla. — Soak overnight a quart 
of small mexican black beans ; drain, put in a stewpan with a pound of 
salt pork, a few chili peppers, a bunch of parsley, an onion with three 
cloves in it, a carrot, but no salt ; wet with a quart of calabrian wine 
and two quarts of water, boil slowly and skim ; add two ounces of but- 
ter, cover and let simmer gently for two hours ; remove the lard and 
vegetables ; press the puree through a sieve, boil again, add some broth 
if needed to obtain the desired consistency ; skim, finish with two ounces 
of butter, taste, add a little salt if necessary, and serve with small square 
crusts of bread fried in butter. 

Salmon-Trout with Oyster Croquettes. — Scale, cleanse, and 
wash well a six-pound salmon-trout, and put it on the grate in a fish- 
kettle ; cover with water acidulated with vinegar ; add salt, pepper-corns, 
and a bunch of parsley ; cover the kettle, boil slowly and let simmer 
gently for forty minutes ; drain, slide upon a dish covered with a folded 
napkin, garnish with parsley-leaves on both ends and oyster croquettes 
oa the sides [No. 12] ; serve with a bowl of hollandaise sauce [No. 98], 

Potatoes a la Maitre d' Hotel.— [No. 354.] 

Turkey Giblets a la Chipolata. — Take the giblets of two tur- 
keys (that is, the wings, necks, heads, gizzards, hearts, and livers), cleanse, 
wash well, and divide in medium-sized pieces, keeping the livers for 

tere 



lOo FRANCO-AMERICAN 

further use ; put in a stewpan four ounces of butter, with six ounces of 
salt pork, cut in small squares ; stir and fry till browned, add the gib- 
lets, fry again, drain most of the fat off, besprinkle with two ounces of 
sifted flour, and mingle well by tossing the saucepan at the side of the fire; 
dilute with enough water and broth, in equal parts, to cover ; boil slowly, 
and stir once in a while ; add a bunch of parsley [No. 327], some small 
trimmed pieces of carrot, and two dozen small onions previously browned 
in frying butter ; boil an hour, remove the parsley, add two dozen small 
inch- long and partly fried chipolata sausages and two dozen roasted and 
shelled imported chestnuts ; boil ten minutes, skim, and serve. 

Glazed Turnips ^ 1' Espagnole. — Peel a dozen or more sound 
white turnips, parboil, drain, range in a sautoir of adequate size, add 
beef-broth to half their height ; besprinkle with salt, pepper, and fine 
sugar ; add small bits of butter on top ; cover with a thick buttered 
paper, and cook in a moderate oven for about an hour, taking care to 
baste the turnips once in a while with the gravy ; dish them up with a 
fork ; add a little more broth, reduce to the consistency of an ordinary 
sauce, pour over the turnips, and serve. 

Tourne-dos of Beef a la Chasseur. — Cut eight or more small, 
thin fillets of beef ; put in a hollow dish with salt, pepper, a sliced onion, 
a few sprigs of parsley and thyme, two bay-leaves, the juice of a lemon, 
and two tablespoonfuls of oil ; let marinate an hour ; drain, fry rare and 
briskly in clarified butter ; dish up in a circle, alternating each piece of 
meat with a heart-shaped slice of bread fried in butter, drain the butter 
from the sautoir, put in about a pint of chasseur sauce [No. 7], boil 
two minutes, pour over the tourne-dos, and serve. 

Celery Sauce Remoulade. — [No. 85.] 

Gelee aux Poires. — Clarify three pints of sweet jelly as directed 
[No. 2], and flavor with a gill of kirschwasser ; cool partially ; have 
some well-drained, cooked, and quartered pears on a cloth ; imbed a 
jelly-mould in ice, pour some jelly into it, and let set ; arrange a row 
of pears, cover over with jelly and let set again, and so on until the mould 
is filled ; cool thoroughly and serve in the usual way. 



COOKERY BOOK. loi 

No. 59. 

Wednesday, February 28. — Bill of fare for eight persons: 

Soup : Onion with eggs. 

Flounder with fine herbs ; 
Timbale of potatoes. 

Shoulders of lamb a la Soubise ; 
Stewed lentils. 



Ducks with turnips ; 
Dandelion and beet salad. 

Rice pudding a la Nan^oise. 

Onion Soup with Eggs.— Slice and parboil four large white 
onions : drain and put in a stevvpan, with two ounces of butter ; fry- 
slightly brown, besprinkle with two ounces of flour, fry two minutes 
longer, dilute with three pints of water and three pints of broth ; add 
salt and pepper ; stir and boil five minutes ; finish with a liaison of six 
egg-yolks, a little milk, and two ounces of butter ; mingle well without 
boiling ; slice fine, dry in the oven, and put in a soup-tureen four ounces 
of french bread, pour the hot soup over, and serve. By parboiling the 
onions before making the soup they lose their acrid taste and unpleasant 
odor. 

Flounder with Fine Herbs. — Scale, draw, cut the fins short, and 
remove the head and dark skin of two good-sized melt flounders (roe 
flounders sometimes are not worth the cooking) ; put in a sautoir with 
two ounces of butter, salt, pepper, the juice of a lemon, and a pint of 
water and white wine in equal parts ; put on the fire, boil, cover, cook 
for half an hour, drain the fish, thicken the sauce with an ounce of flour 
kneaded with an ounce of butter ; boil a little, press through a napkin ; 
add four ounces of butter and two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley ; 
mix well without boiling ; dish up the fish, pour the sauce over, and serve. 

Timbale of Potatoes, — [No. 325.] 

Boiled Shoulders of Lamb a la Soubise.. — Boil for one hour 
two shoulders of lamb as directed [No. 55] ; drain, pour some soubise 
sauce [No. 337] into a dish ; put the shoulders on the sauce, orna- 
ment the handle-bone with fancifully cut paper cuffs, and serve with 
more soubise sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Stewed Lentils. — Soak for three hours a quart of lentils in cold 
water ; drain, put in a stewpan with two quarts of fresh water, a bunch 
of parsley, half a pound of salt pork, a carrot, and an onion with three 
cloves in it ; cook slowly, drain, remove the lard and vegetables ; add 
four ounces of butter in small bits, salt, pepper, and chopped parsley ; 
mingle well by tossing the saucepan, and serve. 



I02 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Ducks with Turnips. — Singe, draw, trim, and truss nicely two 
tame ducks ; put in a saucepan with four ounces of butter ; fry slightly 
brown, drain and save the butter to fry the turnips in ; moisten with a 
pint of espagnole sauce and a little broth ; add a bunch of parsley [No. 
327], put on the fire, cover, and boil half an hour ; peel a dozen turnips, 
cut them in quarters, and trim neatly ; put in a frying-pan with the butter 
and a little sugar ; fry slightly brown ; drain, put with the ducks and boil 
half an hour longer ; remove the parsley, skim the fat, dish up, surround 
with the turnips, pour the sauce over all, and serve. 

Dandelion and Beet Salad. — Prepare a dandelion salad [No. 90] 
with the addition of boiled red beets sliced fine. 

Rice Pudding a la Nan^oise. — Wash well and put in a sauce- 
pan a pound of rice with a quart of milk, four ounces of sugar and two 
ounces of butter ; stir, cover, and boil slowly for forty minutes ; add 
three beaten eggs, and mingle well ; meanwhile open a quart of canned 
apricots, drain them upon a sieve ; have a plain copper charlotte-mould, 
besprinkle the bottom and sides with fine fresh bread-crumbs ; 
begin the filling by putting a layer of rice at the bottom, then a layer of 
apricots, another layer of rice, and so on until the mould is filled, fin- 
ishing with the rice ; sprinkle fine crumbs and put small bits of butter 
over ; put the mould on a baking-sheet and cook slowly for forty min- 
utes in a moderate oven ; turn on a dish and let stand awhile ; reduce 
the syrup to the desired consistency with some marmalade ; take off the 
mould, besprinkle the pudding with fine sugar, pour some of the reduced 
syrup round, and serve with the rest in a sauce-bowl. 



No. 60. 

Thursday, March i. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Salep with broth. 

Boiled skate with browned butter ; 
Bermuda potatoes. 

Calf 's head a la Destiliere ; 
Stewed beets with cream. 



Quail pie au gastronome ; 
Lettuce and tomato salad. 

Compote of oranges. 

Salep Soup with Broth. — Let drop like rain (stirring all the 

while), six ounces of salep in three quarts of boiling beef-broth ; boil, 
remove to the side and let simmer gently for forty minutes ; skim well, 
and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK, 103 

Boiled Skate with Browned Butter. — Procure a thick piece of 
skate weighing about four pounds, also the liver of the fish ; trim, wash 
well, put in a fish-kettle with salt, pepper, half a pint of vinegar and cold 
water enough to cover ; put on the fire, boil slowly, and then let simmer 
for twenty minutes ; put the liver in a small saucepan with some boiling 
water from the fish-kettle ; cook five minutes ; drain the fish, remove 
the skin from both sides ; pare and put on a dish ; drain the liver and 
put it with the fish ; add salt, pepper, and three tablespoonfuls of 
vinegar ; pour over this browned butter and fried parsley as directed 
[No. 290J, and serve. 

Calf's Head a la Destiliere. — Procure a fat, well-scalded, white 
calf's head ; parboil, cool, divide, and cook as directed [No. ■^(io\ ; drain 
thoroughly, dish up, and put the sliced brain on the centre of the 
dish ; reduce about three pints of espagnole sauce with a pint of 
white wine, press through a napkin ; add the tongue cut in squares, a 
dozen small gherkins cut in slices, and a pint of small heads of mush- 
rooms ; heat without boiling ; pour the sauce over the calf's head, gar- 
nish the edge of the dish with fanciful cuts of pickled beets, and serve. 

Stewed Beets with Cream. — Cook, peel, and cut in slices some 
beets ; have a pint of well-buttered and not too thick bechamel sauce 
[No. 270] ; mingle the beets in the sauce without boiling, and serve. 

Quail Pie au Gastronome. — Bone eight quail ; fill them with 
fine, well-seasoned sausage-meat, mixed with a glass of cognac brandy, 
and a salpicon made of trufiies, cooked ham, and lard cut in squares ; 
butter and place a cold pie-mould of adequate size on a buttered baking- 
sheet, line the bottom and sides with a layer of pie-paste, as directed 
[No. 22], cover the paste with a thin layer of sausage-meat, add four of 
the prepared quail, then another layer of sausage-meat, and the re- 
mainder of the quail ; finish the filling with sausage-meat, thin bardes 
of fat pork and two bay-leaves ; wet the edges, place a thin flat of paste 
over the meat, attach it to the edge by pressing gently with the thumbs 
and forefingers, and trim the edge nicely and evenly ; with a pastry- 
pinch, pinch the edge inside and outside ; egg the surface, make a hole 
in the centre of the cover, ornament the cover with fanciful cuts of 
paste, place a ring of paste over the hole to keep it open (chimney- 
like) and to prevent the crust from cracking ; egg again and cook 
slowly for about two hours ; let cool, remove the mould, fill the pie with 
meat jelly made with the quail-bones, a knuckle of veal, some beef-broth 
and a glass of sherry wine ; cool thoroughly overnight, and serve. 

Compote of Oranges. — Peel neatly a dozen or more oranges 
(save the peelings), prick them through with a skewer and put them in 



I04 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

cold water, then put on the fire and boil ten minutes ; drain, change 
the water, and boil again for twenty minutes longer ; cool in freshwater 
and drain on a cloth ; put them in a copper vessel, with syrup enough 
to cover, boil slowly till the oranges are thoroughly done and the syrup 
reduced to a proper consistency (about 30 degrees pese-syrop); the 
peelings may be tied in bunches and put through the same process as 
the oranges; when reduced sufficiently turn into an earthen basin, and 
let cool, then drain, cut in quarters, range in a compot-dish ; untie the 
peelings, cut in fine shreds and put them on top, pour the syrup over, 
and serve. 



No. 61. 

Friday, March 2. — Bill of fare for eight persons 

Soup : Rice with milk. 

Nova Scotian fluke a la Dufferin ; 
Potatoes sautees with fine herbs. 



Breast of mutton with spinach ; 
Celery au veloute. 

Broiled squabs on toast ; 
Red-cabbage salad a la Russe. 

Gateau of rice with raisins. 

Rice Soup with Milk. — Wash well, parboil, cool and drain half 
a pound of rice ; boil in a stewpan three quarts of milk ; add the rice, a 
little salt, and sugar ; stir, boil, cook slowly for half an hour, and serve. 

Nova-Scotian Fluke a la Dufferin. — Procure a six-pound fluke, 
draw, cut the fins short, remove the head and dark skin ; with a larding- 
needle draw shreds of anchovies through the meat on the thick side, and 
place in a large buttered sautoir, the white side uppermost ; add salt, 
pepper, butter, a bunch of parsley, a pint of white wine, and a pint of 
water ; cover and boil slowly for half an hour ; put in the sautoir, round 
the fish, a pound of eels cut in inch-lengths, a pint of scallops, and 
eighteen large oysters with their liquor ; cover and allow the whole to 
simmer ten minutes longer ; take up the fish carefully with a large slide 
or skimmer, and drain it on a dish ; keep warm ; drain also the garnishing 
of eels, scallops, and oysters, and keep them in the drainer to insure 
their being well drained ; thicken the gravy with an ounce and a half 
of flour slightly browned in butter ; boil ten minutes, skim, add the 
juice of a lemon and four ounces of anchovy-butter made with the 
parings of the anchovies used in the preparation of the fish ; mingle 
well, press through a napkin, dish up the fish, range the garnishing round 
it, pour the sauce over all, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 105 

Potatoes Sautees with Fine Herbs. — Cook, slice, and prepare 
potatoes as directed [No. 301] ; drain, add two ounces of butter in small 
bits and two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped chives, chervil, and parsley ; 
mingle well, and serve. 

Breast of Mutton Breaded with Spinach. — Prepare, cook, 
and divide two breasts of mutton as directed [No. 351] ; put a little 
mashed spinach in a dish ; range the meat in a circle ; fill the hollow 
with more spinach, pour a little reduced gravy over, and serve. 

Mashed Spinach. — Pick and wash well sufficient spinach ; par- 
boil in salted water, cool in plenty of cold water, press the water out 
and chop very fine ; put in a saucepan three ounces of butter and two 
ounces of flour, stir and cook without browning ; add the spinach and a 
little salt, and stir a little longer ; dilute with boiling broth or milk, and 
finish with two ounces of butter and two pinches of grated nutmeg. 

Celery au Veloute. — [No. 274.] 

Broiled Squabs on Toast. — Singe four or more squabs, draw and 
trim neatly ; split by the back, crack the main bones, and flatten slightly ; 
baste with sweet oil, season with salt and pepper, and broil thoroughly 
and slightly brown on both sides ; dish upon toasted and buttered slices 
of bread ; pour partly melted niaitre d' hotel sauce over, surround with 
water-cress, and serve. 

Red-Cabbage Salad. — [No. 349.] 

Giteau of Rice with Raisins. — Wash well and put in a saucepan 
a pound and a half of rice with three pints of milk, six ounces of sugar, 
and three ounces of butter ; stir, cover, and boil slowly for forty min- 
utes ; add six egg-yolks and mix well ; then a pint of malaga raisins, 
the rind of a lemon chopped fine, and three egg-whites beaten to a 
froth ; mix well and carefully ; have ready a plain large copper char- 
lotte-mould, well buttered and sprinkled with white-bread crumbs ; pour 
the rice in the mould, besprinkle with more crumbs ; put small pieces 
of butter on top ; place the mould on a baking-sheet, cook in a mode- 
rate oven for forty minutes ; turn into a dish, let stand a few minutes, 
remove the mould, besprinkle the top with fine sugar, pour some lemon 
sauce in a bowl, and serve. 

Lemon Sauce. — Put in a saucepan four egg-yolks, four ounces of 
sugar, an ounce of flour, and the rind of a lemon chopped fine ; mix 
well, dilute with a pint of boiled milk, stir on the fire until the sauce 
thickens, move aside, beat well with a small wire whip, and serve. 



io6 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 62. 

Saturday, March 3, — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Veal with celery. 

Beef palates a 1' Italienne ; 
Potatoes a la Colbert. 

Mutton steaks a la jardiniere. 

Salmon pie, French style ; 
Onion and cucumber salad. 



Gateau Mazarin. 

Veal Soup with Celery. — Cut in short pieces the white stalks 
of six heads of celery ; parboil, cool, drain, put in a saucepan with a 
quart of broth ; cover and cook slowly for an hour ; skim, pour into a 
soup-tureen, add two quarts of veal-broth [No. 298], and serve. 

Beef Palates a 1' Italienne. — Procure six beef palates, soak, wash 
well, put on the fire and boil five minutes, cool, drain, and scrape off the 
white, horny skin ; cut in halves, put in a saucepan with two quarts of 
light broth, a ladleful of the surface of the stock-pot, salt, a bunch of 
parsley, and an onion with three cloves in it ; cover and cook slowly for 
about two hours ; drain on a cloth, pare nicely ; dish up in a circle, 
alternating each piece with a heart-shaped slice of bread fried in but- 
ter, and serve with an italian sauce in the centre. 

Potatoes a la Colbert. — [No. 285] 

Mutton Steaks a la Jardiniere. — Cut four or more thick steaks, 
bone and all, from across the upper part of a large haunch of mutton ; 
flatten, pare, season with salt and pepper, baste with oil, besprinkle with 
fresh crumbs, and broil slowly and rather rare ; dish up, surround with 
a garnishing a la jardiniere [No. 7], and serve. 

Salmon Pie, French Style (in France cold pies are usually 
served as a roast). — Butter and place an oval-shaped pie-mould on a but- 
tered baking-sheet ; line the inside with pie-paste as directed [No. 22] ; 
from four pounds of fresh salmon remove the bones and skin, cut in 
slices, place on a dish, and season with salt, pepper, chopped parsley 
and chives, the juice of a lemon, and a glass of white wine ; let marinate 
for a while ; prepare two pounds of fish force-meat [No. 12], put a layer 
of force-meat in the mould, then some of the salmon and seasoning, 
more force-meat, the rest of the salmon, finishing with force-meat ; 
smooth the surface, wet the edges, cover with paste, and make it adhere 
to the edges by pressing gently between the fingers ; trim and pinch with 
the paste-pincher ; make a hole in the centre, egg and ornament the sur-' 
face with fanciful cuts of paste, egg again, and bake in a moderate oven 
for two hours and a half; let cool partially, then fill with an essence of 



COOKERY BOOK. 107 

fish made with two glasses of white wine, half an ounce of gelatine, a 
pint of water, some aromatics, salt, and the bones and parings of fish used 
in the preparation ; remove the mould, cool overnight, and serve. 

Gateau Mazarin. — Make a light dough with four ounces of flour 
as directed for savarin cake [No. 339] ; then make a hollow in twelve 
ounces of sifted flour ; add half an ounce of sugar, a little salt, six ounces 
of mellow butter, half a cup of hot milk, and three eggs ; mix by rubbing 
down with the palm of the hand, and beating the paste well ; add, one 
by one, four more eggs, rubbing and beating the paste every time ; 
then add the prepared dough ; mix, rub again, and beat once more ; 
have ready a large, plain, well-buttered timbale-mould ; besprinkle the 
bottom and sides with blanched almonds cut in fine shreds ; half fill the 
mould with paste ; put it in a warm closet, let the paste rise almost to 
top of mould, then bake light brown in a moderate oven for about forty 
minutes ; put in a small saucepan half a pint of thick syrup, two glasses 
of Jamaica rum, and two ounces of candied citron chopped fine ; boil, 
add three ounces of fresh butter, mix well ; cut the cake transversely in 
two parts, place the cut side uppermost on a dish-pan, pour the sauce on 
the cake, place one piece upon the other, and serve hot on a folded nap- 
kin. This is a very appropriate cake for large ball suppers and parties. 



No. 63. 

Sunday, March 4. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Puree of chicken a la Perigord. 

Coquilles of lobster ; 
Quenelles of potatoes. 

Ribs of beef a la Bontoux ; 
Fried oyster-plant. 

Terrine de foies gras a la gele'e ; 
Salade a la Macedoine. 



Pistachio ice-cream. 

Puree of Chicken a la Perigord.— Pound very fine four ounces 
of peeled truffles with half an ounce of butter ; press forcibly through a 
fine sieve ; mingle with two whole eggs, ten egg-yolks, salt, pepper, 
nutmeg, and a pint of broth ; rub through a fine sieve again ; pour in 
a small buttered charlotte-mould ; cook slowly in a covered saucepan 
filled with boiling water to half the height of the mould ; when well set 
take the mould out and let cool ; prepare a puree of chicken as directed 
in No. 288 ; pound fine two ounces of blanched almonds and a few bitter 
ones, dilute with half a pint of milk ; press the milk through a napkin 



io8 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

over the puree, stir and heat well without boiling ; turn the truffle 
preparation on a wet napkin, cut in small cubes or lozenges, put theni in 
the tureen with the puree, and serve, 

Coquilles of Lobster. — Cut in thin slices the meat of two cooked 
lobsters ; put in a saucepan two tablespoonfuls of chopped shallots, 
with two ounces of butter ; fry three minutes ; moisten with a glass of 
white wine and a pint of bechamel sauce ; stir and boil till well reduced ; 
add four egg-yolks, salt, white and red pepper, nutmeg, a tablespoonful 
of chopped parsley, and the juice of half a lemon ; mix well, put the 
lobster in the sauce, and stir carefully with a wooden spoon ; butter 
eight or more small tin or plated coquilles (shells), fill them with the 
lobster, smooth the surface with the blade of a knife, besprinkle with 
fine white-bread crumbs, put small bits of butter on top, and bake 
slightly brown in a brisk oven ; range and serve on a folded napkin. 

Quenelles of Potatoes. — [No. 306.] 

Ribs of Beef Braised a la Bontoux. — Pare, remove the spine, 
shorten the ribs and tie firmly a not too fat eight-pound piece of rib- 
beef ; put in a braisiere with a little fat ; fry slightly brown, drain off 
the fat, add some aromatics, a bunch of parsley, a pint of white wine, a 
pint of tomato sauce, a quart of broth, and a handful of dried mush- 
rooms previously soaked in water ; cover the braisiere and cook slowly 
for three hours ; drain the beef, strain, and free the gravy of its fat, 
return the beef to the braisiere, keep warm, and reduce the gravy to the 
consistency of a demi-glaze sauce ; line a dozen or so of deep tartlet- 
moulds with short-paste, fill with macaroni a 1' italienne cut in short 
pieces, cover with a thin flat of the same paste, make a small hole in the 
top of each, egg the surface, and bake in a moderate oven for fifteen 
minutes ; pare and dish up the beef, pour a little sauce around it, also 
some in the patties through the hole in the top ; surround the beef with 
the patties, and serve with the rest of the sauce in a bowl. 

Fried Oyster-Plant. — [No. 313.] 

Terrine de Foies Gras. — (Fat livers from Strasbourg may be 
had at all the first-class groceries.) Have the tureen kept on ice over- 
night, remove the lard from the top, slide a hot knife between the 
liver and the tureen, immerse a moment in hot water, invert on a dish, 
smooth nicely, and put on ice again until very firm ; ornament the top 
with nice cuts of meat jelly [No. 362], surround the base with the jelly 
trimmings chopped fine, and serve. 

Salade a la Macedoine. — [No. 91.] 

Pistachio Ice-Cream. — Blanch, peel and pound fine five ounces 
of pistachios and half a pound of almonds, add half a vanilla bean, 



COOKERY BOOK. 109 

half a pint of cream, and a teaspoonful of orange-flower water ; put in a 
saucepan sixteen egg-yolks, twenty ounces of sugar ; mix well, dilute 
with a quart of cream and a quart of milk ; put on the fire, stir steadily, 
and when nearly done add the pounded pistachios, etc. ; stir again, and, 
as soon as the preparation thickens, press immediately through a fine 
sieve into a basin ; stir occasionally while cooling ; freeze, mould, put 
in a pail of salted ice for two hours, and serve in the ordinary way. 



No. 64. 

Monday, March 5. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Vegetable-roots a 1' Italienne. 

Boiled shad, caper sauce ; 
Hollandaise potatoes. 

Breast of veal stuffed a I'Allemande ; 
Stewed celery. 

Pigeons en compote ; 
Salade a la paysanne. 

Plum-pudding au Madere. 

Vegetable-Roots a 1' Italienne. — Cut in fine shreds enough 
carrots and turnips and, in equal parts, some parsnip, parsley, and 
celery-roots ; parboil for five minutes, drain ; put in a stewpan with 
four ounces of butter, and fry until the moisture is evaporated and the 
vegetables slightly browned ; drain the butter, moisten with a pint of 
broth, cover, and boil till the vegetables are done ; add three quarts of 
beef-broth, boil a few minutes longer, skim, pour in a soup-tureen with 
nouilles cut in short pieces, and serve. 

Boiled Shad, Caper Sauce. — Procure a large roe shad ; scale, 
cut the fins, draw by the gills, wash well, and put in salted water highly 
acidulated with white-wine vinegar ; cover, boil, and let simmer gently 
for forty minutes ; drain, slide on a folded napkin, surround with 
parsley leaves, and serve with a sauce-bowl of caper sauce. 

Hollandaise Potatoes. — [No. 4.] 

Breast of Veal, Stuffed a TAllemande. — Choose a fat breast 
of veal ; pare nicely ; place the breast on its side and the bones perpen- 
dicularly, and remove the rib bones by striking them with the back of 
the cleaver, so as to loosen and pull them easily without injuring the 
surface ; make a deep incision in the large end and the length of the 
breast ; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; fill the breast with a 
erman stuffing [No. 344] ; sew the aperture to secure the stuffing 
inside ; place the veal in a buttered sautoir with sliced carrots and 



no FRANCO-AMERICAN 

onions, a bunch of parsley, a quart of broth, and small bits of butter on 
top ; cover, boil, and cook slowly for two hours in a moderate oven, 
taking care to baste the meat occasionally with the gravy ; drain, 
remove the strings, pare, dish up on a bed of prepared nouilles [No. 
302]; strain and free the gravy of its fat ; reduce it to the consistency 
of a demi-glaze sauce, pour over the veal, and serve. 

Stewed Celery. — [No. 276.] 

Compote of Pigeons. — Pick, singe, draw, and truss nicely four 
or more tender pigeons ; put in a saucepan four ounces of parboiled 
salt pork, cut in squares, with two ounces of butter ; fry five minutes, 
add the pigeons, and fry again until the whole is a light brown ; drain 
the fat, moisten with a pint of espagnole sauce and half a pint of broth ; 
add a bunch of parsley, salt, pepper, two dozen small onions slightly 
browned in frying butter ; cover, and cook slowly for half an hour ; 
add two dozen heads of mushrooms, boil a few minutes longer, remove 
the parsley, skim the fat, dish up the pigeons, pour the sauce and gar- 
nishing over and round the dish, and serve. 

Salad a la Paysanne. — Slice fine and parboil some red cabbage 
for fifteen minutes ; cool, drain, and put to steep in a basin, with an 
ounce of salt, for four hours, stirring occasionally ; drain the water, add 
half a glass of vinegar, and steep for an hour longer ; peel and cut in 
squares some potatoes and celery-roots (knobs), and cook them sepa- 
rately ; having drained the vinegar from the cabbage, put it in a salad- 
bowl with the celery and potatoes ; add pepper and sweet oil, mix well, 
and serve. 

Plum-Pudding with Madeira. — Prepare a plum-pudding as di- 
rected [No. 359]; turn on a dish, and serve with a madeira sauce : 

Madeira Sauce. — Put in a saucepan six egg-yolks, three ounces 
of sugar, half a pint of madeira wine, and the rind of a lemon chopped 
fine ; mix well, put on the fire, stir steadily, and as soon as the sauce 
thickens, press immediately through a napkin ; besprinkle the pudding 
with sugar, pour the sauce around, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. in 



No. 65. 



Tuesday, March 6. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Cream of turnips i la Conde. 

Carp a la Genevoise ; 
Potatoes a la Bordelaise. 



Hotchpot a I'Anglaise ; 
Cepes a la provencale. 

Mutton chops, off saddle, a la Duxelles ; 
Dandelion salad. 



Gelee fouettee a 1' abricot. 

Cream of Turnips a la Conde. — Make a pint of white turnip 
puree ; beat well in a saucepan six egg-whites, add the puree, a gill of 
cream, salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; mingle and rub through a very fine 
sieve ; put the residue in a plain, buttered charlotte-mould ; cook until 
well set in a saucepan filled with boiling water ; let cool, turn on a wet 
napkin, and cut in squares ; have ready three quarts of puree of red 
beans [No. 349], put this in a tureen, add the cream of turnips, and 
serve. 

Carp a la Genevoise. — Scale and cleanse two good-sized carp ; 
put in a sautoir with sliced carrots and onions, a bunch of parsley [No. 
327], two cloves of garlic, salt and pepper, a little butter, apint of red wine, 
and a pint of broth or water ; cover, boil, and cook slowly for forty min- 
utes ; lift the fish out carefully with a skimmer, and keep warm ; strain 
and thicken the gravy with an ounce and a half of flour kneaded with but- 
ter ; boil fifteen minutes ; finish with four ounces of butter, a table- 
spoonful of essence of anchovies, and the juice of a lemon ; press 
through a napkin, dish up the fish, pour the sauce over, and serve. 

Potatoes a la Bordelaise. — [No. 304.] 

Hotchpot a I'Anglaise. — Cut in three-inch lengths the thick 
parts of three or four ox-tails ; soak in cold water for two hours, chang- 
ing the water three or four times; put on the fire with fresh water; 
boil five minutes, cool, wash well, drain ; put them in a saucepan with 
two quarts of broth, a bunch of parsley, pepper, an onion with three 
cloves in it, and four carrots ; boil, skim, and cook about three hours ; 
drain the tails, putting them in a sautoir and the carrots on a plate ; 
free the gravy of its fat, strain through a fine sieve, add two ladle- 
fuls of tomato sauce, and reduce to the consistency of a demi-glaze ; 
pour some over the tails, and let simmer awhile ; pare the carrots and 
cut them in pieces the size of a cork ; dish up the tails in a pyramidal 
form ; surround with the carrots and a dozen glazed onions [No. 338] ; 
pour the rest of the sauce over all, and serve. 



112 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Cepes a la Proven^ale. — Procure a quart-can of preserved cepes ; 
open it, warm by placing the can in boiling water ; drain the cepes in a 
colander, wipe dry with a soft cloth (the oil in the can is generally 
rancid), and cut in thin slices ; put in a sautoir two ounces of butter, 
two tablespoonfuls of sweet oil, an onion chopped fine, two cloves of 
garlic, and a bay-leaf ; fry slightly brown, add the cepes ; stir and fry 
briskly for three minutes longer ; add salt, pepper, a ladleful of espagn- 
ole and a ladleful of tomato sauce ; boil a minute, remove the garlic 
and bay-leaf, add the juice of a lemon and chopped parsley ; mix well, 
and serve very hot. 

Mutton Chops, off Saddle, ^ la Duxelles. — Pare nicely, season, 
with salt and pepper, and broil rare eight mutton chops cut from the 
saddle ; dish up in a circle, and pour a duxelles sauce in the centre. 

Duxelles Sauce. — Put in a saucepan a pint of well-reduced 
veloute sauce, with a glass of white wine and two tablespoonfuls of 
beef-extract ; boil five minutes ; add two tablespoonfuls of mushrooms, 
the same of red beef-tongue, and some parsley, the whole chopped 
fine ; mix these well into the sauce without boiling. 

Dandelion Salad. — [No. 90.] 

Gelee Fouettee a 1' Abricot. — Clarify a quart of sweet jelly 
with an ounce and a half of gelatine and the rinds of two oranges, as 
directed [No. 2] ; strain and cool partially in a tinned basin ; put on 
ice and beat well with an egg-whip ; when the jelly thickens add gradu- 
ally the juice of two oranges and half a pint of apricot marmalade, di- 
luted with a glass of kirschwasser ; pour this in a jelly-mould of adequate 
size ; imbed the mould in broken ice until the jelly is well set ; im- 
merse the mould in tepid water, then wipe it ; turn the jelly out on a 
flat dish ; surround with halves of glazed or preserved and well-drained 
apricots, and serve. 

No. 66. 

Wednesday, March 7. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Veal and barley. 

Dame of salmon a la Chambord ; 
Potatoes a la Brabanconne. 



Carbonnades of mutton a la Chartreuse ; 
Jerusalem artichokes a la Bechamel. 

Roast wild squab on toast ; 
Water-cress salad. 



Timbale of chestnuts 4 la vanille. 
Veal and Barley Soup. — Wash well and parboil, taking about 



COOKERY BOOK. 113 

ten minutes, half a pound of barley ; cool, drain, put in a stewpan with 
a quart of broth, and cook slowly for three hours ; drain again, put in 
a soup-tureen, add three quarts of veal-broth [No. 298], and serve. 

Darne of Salmon a la Chambord. — Procure a middle cut of 
salmon, weighing about five pounds ; put in a saucepan with sliced 
carrots and onions, a bunch of parsley, two ounces of butter, a pint of 
white wine, a pint of white broth, salt, and pepper-corns ; cover and 
let simmer slowly for an hour ; strain and thicken the gravy with an 
ounce and a half of flour browned in an ounce of butter ; add a ladle- 
ful of tomato sauce ; boil half an hour ; skim the fat, and finish with 
the juice of a lemon, a little anchovy-butter, and four ounces of table 
butter ; mix well and press this sauce through a napkin ; remove the skin 
from the upper side of the salmon, and dish it up ; surround the 
salmon with a garnishing of fish quenelles, heads of mushrooms, cooked 
oysters, and slices of truffles ; pour the sauce over all, then range a 
dozen cooked crayfish round, and serve. 

Potatoes a la Brabangonne. — [No. 3.] 

Carbonnades of Mutton a la Chartreuse. — Prepare, lard, and 
cook two carbonnades of mutton as directed [No. 282] ; drain the 
mutton ; strain and free the gravy of its fat, and reduce with a pint 
of espagnole sauce ; make eight or more small chartreuses of 
vegetables, by lining small timbale-moulds with carrots and turnips, 
and filling with stewed cabbage or plain spinach ; pare, and dish up 
the mutton ; turn out and range the timbales round it, filling the 
spaces with groups of green peas, string-beans, and flowerets of cauli- 
flowers ; pour some of the sauce over the meat, and serve with the rest 
in a sauce-bowl. 

Jerusalem Artichokes a la Bechamel. — Boil some Jerusalem 
artichokes in salted water ; cool, peel, and cut in slices ; put in a sautoir 
with two ounces of melted butter, salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; fry a 
little ; butter and besprinkle with grated parmesan cheese a china or 
plated baking-dish ; put a layer of artichokes in the centre, cover with 
some bechamel sauce and grated cheese ; then add another layer of 
artichokes, with more sauce and cheese, until the whole is used, finish- 
ing with the sauce, and giving the mass the form of a dome; cover with 
white-bread crumbs and cheese, over which drop a little melted butter ; 
bake in a brisk oven for fifteen minutes, and serve in the baking-dish. 

Roast Wild Squab on Toast. — Procure eight fat and fleshy 
wild squab ; void and dress nicely ; cover the breasts with bardes of 
salted fat pork, and roast briskly ; dish up on dry toast ; add a little 
broth to the drippings, strain this over the birds, and serve. 



114 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Water-Cress Salad.— [No. 33.] 

Timbale of Chestnuts a la Vanille. — Shell, peel, and cook in 
milk enough chestnuts to make a pint of puree ; press forcibly through 
a sieve, dilute with an ounce and a half of melted gelatine and a pint of 
syrup ; imbed an entremet-mould in broken ice ; line it with a prepara- 
tion of nearly congealed bavarois au chocolat [No. 278] ; fill the hollow 
with the prepared chestnuts, cover the mould with an inverted plate, 
and put more ice over it ; when the preparation is well set, immerse the 
mould in tepid water, wipe it with a cloth, turn on a folded napkin, and 
serve. 



No. 67. 

Thursday, March 8. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Macaroni a la villageoise. 

Pike a la Normande ; 
Potatoes with milk. 



Noix of veal ^ la Lyonnaise ; 
French peas. 

Roast ptarmigan on toast ; 
Doucette and egg salad. 

Rissoles h. la Marie Stuart. 

Macaroni £L la Villageoise. — Pare, wash, and cut in inch-long 
shreds the white part of two bunches of leeks ; put in a stewpan with 
four ounces of butter, and fry a light brown ; dilute with three quarts 
of beef-broth ; boil, then skim, and let cook forty minutes ; parboil 
eight ounces of macaroni in salted water for ten minutes, cool, drain, 
and cut into inch-lengths ; add this to the soup, boil ten minutes longer, 
skim again ; pour in the soup-tureen, and serve with a plate of grated 
parmesan cheese. 

Pike a la Normande. — Procure a large pike ; scale, pare, draw 
by the gills, and secure the head to the body with a string ; place it on 
the grate in a fish-kettle with sliced onions, sprays of parsley, a bay-leaf, 
a sprig of thyme, salt, and ateaspoonful of mignonette pepper (coarsely- 
ground white pepper, from which the dust has been sifted for fine pep- 
per, extensively used in french kitchens) ; moisten with a pint of white 
wine, some water, and a little white broth ; put small bits of butter on 
top ; cover with a buttered paper ; let come to a boil, and then cook 
slovv'ly for forty minutes ; strain the gravy in a saucepan, thicken with an 
ounce and a half of flour cooked in butter, but not browned ; boil, then, 
adding a liaison of four egg-yolks, stir, and heat without boiling ; finish 
with the juice of a lemon and four ounces of butter, and press this sauce 



4 



COOKERY BOOK. 115 

through a napkin ; prepare a garnishing of cooked mussels, oysters, and 
scallops in equal parts ; slide the fish on a dish, put the garnishing around 
it, pour the sauce over all, surround with eight large smelts fried in bread- 
crumbs, and serve. 

Potatoes with Milk. — Wash well and boil small potatoes in their 
jackets ; drain, cool, peel, and cut in small squares ; put in a saucepan 
with a pint of milk, salt, and pepper ; let simmer ten minutes ; add two 
ounces of butter, mix well, and serve. 

Noix of Veal a la Lyonnaise. — Choose a fat noix of white veal ; 
with a larding-needle fasten inside long shreds of well-seasoned salt 
pork ; cover with bardes of lard, place in a flat saucepan with a bunch 
of parsley, and sliced carrots and onions ; moisten with two glasses of 
white wine and a quart of broth ; put on the fire and boil briskly for 
ten minutes ; cover, and cook in a moderate oven for two hours ; drain 
the veal ; strain and free the gravy of its fat, reduce with a pint of espagn- 
ole sauce, and press through a napkin ; prepare and keep separate the 
following garnishing : Eight large stuffed and glazed onions [No. 303], 
two dozen large shelled chestnuts cooked whole in a little broth, and a 
few sausages lightly fried, then cooked in broth and sliced ; pare and 
dish up the veal, surround with the garnishing in small groups, pour the 
reduced gravy over, and serve. 

Roast Ptarmigan. — Pick and singe three or four ptarmigan (a 
species of white grouse found on the mountains, and now common in 
this market); draw, truss, cover the breast with bardes of lard; cook 
and serve in the same way as prairie-hens [No. 309]. 

Rissoles a la Marie Stuart. — Prepare some feuilletage paste 
[No. 278] ; with a rolling-pin spread a long, thin strip on a floured 
table ; range teaspoonfuls of scotch marmalade an inch and a half 
from the edge and two inches apart ; wet the edge and the spaces ; fold 
the edge over the marmalade, press gently to make the paste adhere, and 
part the rissoles with a two-inch round channelled paste-cutter ; trim 
straight the rest of the paste, and make another row of rissoles, until 
you have about two dozen ; dip them in beaten eggs, fry slightly brown 
in plenty of hot lard ; drain on a cloth, roll in powdered sugar, dish up 
on a folded napkin, and serve. 



1 1 6 FRA N CO- A ME RICA N 

LENTEN DINNER. 
No. 68. 

Friday, March 9. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Panada au maigre. 

Baked cod with smelts ; 
Potatoes a la villageoise. 

Vol-au-vent of eggs, cream sauce ; 
Mashed spinach with sugar. 

Herring salad a la Bremoise. 

Fondue a 1' Americaine. 

Panada au Maigre. — Put in a stewpan eight ounces of broken 
(not cut) stale bread, with salt, two ounces of butter, and three quarts 
of cold water ; put on the fire, boil, and let siminer for half an hour, 
stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon to prevent the soup from 
burning ; then put in a soup-tureen eight egg-yolks, dilute them with a 
pint of boiled milk, add three ounces of butter in small bits, pour two 
ladlefuls of soup over, and mix well ; then pour the rest of the soup, 
stirring all the while ; if too thick add more boiling milk ; cover and 
serve. 

Baked Cod with Smelts. — Procure a fresh six-pound cod ; re- 
move three or four joints from the spine, cut the fins short and wash 
well ; butter and bestrew an oval baking-dish with chopped onion and 
parsley, put the cod on it, season with salt and pepper, moisten with 
half a pint of white wine and a little water ; boil, and then put small 
bits of butter on top, and cook in a moderate oven for twenty minutes ; 
drain the fish and thicken the gravy in a saucepan, with an ounce of 
flour kneaded with butter; with the point of a knife break the spines 
of a dozen large smelts (cleansed and trimmed), bend them by inserting 
the tail in the opening of the gills ; range them leaning against the cod, 
the thick side uppermost ; pour the thickened gravy over all, besprinkle 
with fine white-bread crumbs, baste with two ounces of melted butter, 
and bake slightly brown for about twenty minutes longer ; press the 
juice of a lemon over, and serve in the baking-dish placed on another of 
the same size. 

Potatoes ^ la Villageoise. — [No. 5.] 

Vol-au-vent of Eggs, Cream Sauce. — Prepare a crust of vol- 
au-vent with feuilletage paste [No. 278] ; melt in a saucepan an ounce 
of butter with an ounce of flour, fry a little, dilute with a pint of boiled 
milk and half a pint of boiled cream, put salt, a pinch of sugar, a bay- 
leaf, a sprig of thyme and nutmeg ; stir and boil slowly for twenty min- 



COOKERY BOOK. 117 

utes ; add four ounces of butter, mix well and press through a napkin 
into a larger saucepan ; boil hard and shell a dozen eggs, cut nine in 
slices and mingle carefully through the sauce with a wooden spoon ; 
place the vol-au-vent on a flat dish, pour the prepared eggs inside, 
quarter the three remaining eggs, range them yolk uppermost on top ; 
besprinkle with a little chopped parsley, put the cover on, and serve 
very hot. 

Mashed Spinach with Sugar. — Cook and mash some spinach 
and dilute with milk as directed [No. 61] ; add two tablespoonfuls of 
sugar ; dish up in dome form, surround with triangle-shaped crotitons 
fried in butter, lightly sugared and glazed in the oven, and serve. 

Herring Salad a la Bremoise. — Peel and cut in small squares 
a quart of cold boiled potatoes, four peeled and cored sour raw apples, 
the fillets of four salted herring, a pickled cucumber and two boiled 
beets ; add salt, pepper, chopped onion, vinegar, mustard, and mayon- 
naise dressing ; mingle well, put in a salad-bowl, garnish with a circle 
of pickled and sliced beets, besprinkle with chopped parsley, and serve. 

Fondue a 1' Americaine. — Beat in a saucepan eight eggs, add a 
pound of mild american cheese sliced very fine, a cup of cream, 
two ounces of butter, a little salt and nutmeg ; put on a moderately 
hot fire and stir constantly with a wooden spoon until the cheese is 
melted and the fondue pretty consistent and very hot ; do not let it boil, 
as the eggs would certainly curdle ; pour into a deep dish, surround 
with eight square slices of bread, fried soft in clarified butter ; serve 
with very hot plates. 



No. 69. 

Saturday, March 10. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Puree of potatoes k la Parmentier. 

Stuffed black-bass, crayfish sauce ; 
Potatoes a la Hanovrienne. 



Beef-tongue a la Romaine ; 
Stewed celery with beef-marrow. 

Cutlets of pigeon au supreme ; 
Lettuce salad a la Solteville. 

Cabinet-pudding a la royale. 

Puree of Potatoes a la Parmentier. — Peel, cut in slices, and 
put in a saucepan about a quart of mealy potatoes, with three quarts of 
liglu chicken-broth ; add an onion with two cloves in it and a bunch of 
parsley ; cook thoroughly, remove the onion and parsley, and press 
through a fine sieve ; return the residue to the saucepan, add more 



Ii8 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

broth if required, put it on the fire, and stir with a wooden spoon until 
it boils ; skim, add a pint of cream, two ounces of butter, and a handful 
of finely cut (not chopped) chervil ; mix well without boiling, pour in 
the soup-tureen, and serve with a plate of small square crotltons fried 
in butter. 

Stuffed Black-Bass, Crayfish Sauce. — Procure two good-sized 
black-bass ; cleanse, draw by the gills, wash well, and wipe dry ; fill 
with a plain fish force-meat [No. 50]; secure the head to the body with 
a string ; put on the grate in a fish-kettle, with salt, pepper, a little 
butter, a sliced onion, and a bunch of parsley ; moisten with a pint of 
white wine and a pint of water ; cover the kettle, boil, and let simmer 
for forty minutes ; drain the fish, strain and thicken the gravy with an 
ounce of flour kneaded with an ounce of butter ; boil ten minutes ; 
finish with two egg-yolks, the juice of a lemon, a pinch of red pepper, 
and a little red-lobster or crayfish butter, to give the sauce a light-pink 
tint ; press through a napkin, and add two dozen shelled and pared 
crayfish tails ; dish up the fish, pour some sauce over, and serve the rest 
in a sauce-bowl. 

Potatoes a la Hanovrienne. — [No. 324.] 

Beef-Tongue, Braised a la Romaine. — Soak overnight a 
corned beef-tongue ; put in a stewpan with water, boil steadily for about 
three hours ; drain, remove the horny skin, and pare nicely ; cut length- 
wise, dish up in heart-shape, pour a romaine sauce [No. 53] over, and 
serve. 

Stewed Celery with Beef-Marrow. — Stew a dozen heads of 
celery [No. 276]; soak some beef-marrow in cold water, cut it in slices, 
and boil two minutes ; dish up the celery, pour a well-reduced madeira 
sauce over ; drain, and put the marrow on top, and serve. 

Cutlets of Pigeon au Supreme. — Have four or more tender 
pigeons ; cut them in two, remove all the bones, except those in the 
legs ; flatten slightly, add salt and pepper, fry in butter till slightly 
browned ; press and cool them between two tin sheets with a light 
weight on top ; trim, stuff the inside with a salpicon made of mush- 
rooms, red beef-tongue, and truffles, cut fine, and mixed with a little 
well-reduced allemande sauce ; roll in bread-crumbs, dip in beaten 
eggs, and roll in crumbs again, then fry of a nice color in plenty of hot 
lard ; drain, dish up in a circle, pour a well-reduced and buttered 
velout^ sauce in the centre, and serve. 

Lettuce Salad a la Sotteville. — [No. 358.] 

Cabinet-Pudding a la Royale. — Make a pound of brioche- 
paste [No, 53] ; cook in a buttered timbale-mould, and let cool ; butter 



COOKERY BOOK. 119 

another plain mould a little larger than the former ; put a piece of but- 
tered paper on the bottom, cut the brioche transversely in half-incli 
thick slices ; with a round paste-cutter cut from the centre a piece half 
an inch in diameter ; spread each large piece with apricot marmalade, 
besprinkle with bruised macaroons, and pile the slices one upon another 
in the second mould ; fill the hollow centre with small pieces of brioche 
and candied fruits mixed together ; put in a saucepan eight egg-yolks, 
two eggs, and six ounces of sugar ; mix well, dilute with a pint and a 
half of hot milk ; strain this preparation, pour into the mould, and cook 
for one hour in a covered saucepan with boiling water to half the height 
of the mould ; turn on a dish, let rest for a while, take off the mould, 
besprinkle with fine sugar, pour an apricot sauce [No. 48] around, and 
serve. 



No. 70. 

Sunday, March 11. — Bill of fare for eight persons. 
Puree of chicken a la Bearnaise. 

Fricasseed oysters ; 
Quenelles of potatoes. 

Loin of veal a la Litbuanienne ; 
Mushrooms a la Piemontaise. 



Roast English pheasants ; 
Lettuce salad. 

Pyramid of rice ice-cream. 

Puree of Chicken a la Bearnaise. — Make two quarts of thick 
puree of chicken [No. 28S], saving the fillets for later use; diltite with 
a pint of boiling cream and a pint of almond milk [No. 54] ; add a little 
sugar and two ounces of butter ; stir and heat well without boiling ; 
cut the fillets in small squares, put them in the soup-tureen with the 
puree, and serve with a plate of small rings of white bread fried in 
clarified butter. 

Fricasseed Oysters. — Procure three dozen large oysters ; put in 
a stewpan with pepper, nutmeg, a little broth, and two ounces of butter ; 
stir occasionally and boil two minutes ; drain in a large colander and 
strain the liquor through a fine sieve ; melt in a saucepan an ounce and 
a half of butter with an ounce and a half of flour, dilute with enough 
oyster liquor to make a consistent sauce ; boil ten minutes, add a little 
red pepper, salt if required, a liaison of four egg-yolks, lemon juice, and 
two ounces of butter ; stir and heat well, but do not allow to boil ; put 
the drained oysters in a large stewpan, press the sauce over them through 



1 20 FRA NCO-A ME RICA N 

a napkin, heat well without boiling ; pour in a hollow dish, surround with 
heart-shaped cuts of bread fried in butter, and serve. 

Quenelles of Potatoes. — [No. 306.] 

Loin of Veal a la Lithuanienne. — Procure a fat loin of veal 
with the kidney attached ; pare, remove the bones and cook as di- 
rected [No. 32] ; heat, drain, wipe dry, and chop fine a pint of cepes ; 
put them in a saucepan with two ounces of butter and a tablespoonful 
of chopped shallots ; stir and fry five minutes ; add two ounces of flour, 
dilute with a pint of cream and a pint of broth ; boil ten minutes ; then 
add pepper, nutmeg, the yolks of three eggs, chopped parsley, and a 
handful of grated parmesan cheese ; stir and boil two minutes longer ; 
cut the veal right across in a dozen or more large thin slices ; recon- 
struct the whole loin in a large china or plated baking dish, alternating 
each slice with a tablespoonful of the reduced cepes sauce ; spread more 
of the same sauce over the meat, besprinkle with fine bread-crumbs and 
a little grated cheese, put small bits of butter on top, pour some demi- 
glaze sauce around, and bake in a hot oven till slightly browned ; pour 
more demi-glaze around the disli, and serve. 

Mushrooms Sautes a la Piemontaise. — Have some fresh 
mushrooms ; pare, wash vv-ell, cut in slices, and boil them in salted and 
acidulated water for a minute ; drain, put in a sautoir with four ounces 
of melted butter, and fry three minutes ; add juice of a lemon and' 
chopped parsley ; mix well, and serve. 

Roast English Pheasants. — Select a brace of English pheas- 
ants, not too gamy ; remove the head with the skin adhering to the 
neck, and the rump with the feathers on, and keep them for later 
use ; pick, draw, singe, and truss nicely ; expose the breast over a brisk 
fire for half a minute to stretch the skin and facilitate larding ; with a 
larding-needle insert over the birds rows of fine and short shreds of fat 
pork ; roast on the spit for about forty minutes ; dish up, put skewers 
through the heads and rumps, fastening them for ornament in their nat- 
ural position ; add a little broth to the drippings, skim, strain, and 
serve in a sauce-bowl along with the birds. 

Pyramid of Rice Ice-cream. — Put four ounces of rice in a 
saucepan with two quarts of water ; boil slowly for thirty minutes, 
drain thoroughly and put in a bowl with a pint of syrup to steep for 
three hours; put in a tinned basin ten egg-yolks, ten ounces of sugar, 
and the rind of a lemon ; mix well, dilute with a quart of milk and half 
a pint of almond-milk [No. 54] ; put this on the fire, stir constantly 
until it thickens, then strain immediately through a fine sieve into a 
larger basin, and stir occasionally while cooling ; freeze in the ordinary 



COOKERY BOOK. 121 

way, drain, and add the rice when nearly frozen ; when hard enough 
transfer to a mould in pyramid form, imbed the mould in a pail of 
salted ice for two hours, immerse in tepid water, wipe dry, invert on a 
folded napkin, and serve. 



No. 71. 

Monday, March 12. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Lemon with eggs. 

Fillets of bass a la Bordelaise ; 
Potatoes sautees. 



Vol-au-vent a la Nesle ; 
Celery-knobs a la Villeroi. 

Beefsteaks a la Colbert ; 
Water-cress salad. 

Quinces a la Conde. 

Lemon Soup with Eggs.— Prepare three quarts of chicken- 
broth as directed [No. 310], saving the raw meat from the breast to 
make quenelles for the vol-au-vent ; slice thin and dry in the oven four 
ounces of french bread ; put in a soup-tureen a liaison of six egg-yolks, 
with half a pint of cream, the juice of a lemon, and some grated 
nutmeg ; mix at first with a pint of boiling broth, then pour the 
rest in, stirring all the time ; add the sliced bread, cover and serve. 

Fillets of Bass a la Bordelaise.— Take the fillets of two 
striped bass of medium-size ; boil the heads and bones for an hour 
with half a pint of white wine, a little water, and a pint of white 
broth, salt, pepper, a sliced onion, a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, and 
an ounce of butter ; pare, and cut each fillet in two, put these eight 
pieces in a hollow dish with salt, two spoonfuls of oil, and the 
juice of a lemon ; let steep thirty minutes ; drain, besprinkle with 
flour, dip in egg-yolks mixed with the same quantity of melted butter 
roll in fine fresh bread-crumbs : place them on a hot oiled grid- 
iron, and broil on a moderate charcoal fire for twenty minutes, till both 
sides are of a nice color, taking care to baste the fish once in a while 
with a hair or feather brush dipped in melted butter ; meanwhile, put in 
a saucepan two ounces of butter with a tablespoonful of chopped shal- 
lots ; fry them slightly brown, add an ounce and a half of flour, fry a 
little longer, then dilute with the strained gravy made with the fish 
bones, and a ladleful of tomato sauce ; stir, boil, and reduce to the 
desired consistency ; add a little red pei)per, a tablespoonful of chopped 
parsley, the juice of a lemon, and two ounces of butter in small bits ; 



122 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

mix well, and boil no longer ; dish up the fish in a row, one fillet slightly 
over the other ; pour some of the sauce on the dish, and serve the rest 
in a sauce-bowl. 

Potatoes Sautees. — [No. 25] 

Vol-au-Vent a la Nesle. — Prepare a vol-au-vent crust as directed 
[No. 27S] ; make a quart of allemande sauce with chicken-broth ; with 
the breasts of the chicken saved from the soup, niake some force-meat 
[No. 294] ; roll it on a floured table, and make about four dozen good- 
sized quenelles as directed ; dish up the vol-au-vent in a round flat 
dish ; mingle the quenelles with some of the allemande sauce, pour 
them into the vol-au-vent, range on top a dozen heads of mushrooms 
and some cocks' combs ; pour more sauce over, cover the vol-au-vent, 
and serve. 

Celery-Knobs a la Villeroi. — Prepare and cook celery-knobs as 
directed [No. 48] ; cut in thick slices, roll in reduced allemande sauce, 
and let cool ; at dinner-time roll them in bread-crumbs, immerse in 
beaten eggs, roll in bread-crumbs again and fry of a light brown 
color ; dish up on a folded napkin, surround with fried parsley, and 
serve. 

Beefsteaks a la Colbert. — Procure four pretty thick and tender 
sirloin steaks weighing about twelve ounces each ; flatten a little, season 
with salt and pepper, baste with sweet oil, broil rather rare, and range 
on a dish, one slightly overlapping the other ; pour a colbert sauce 
[No. 272] over, and serve. 

Water-Cress Salad. — [No. zi^ 

Quinces a la Conde. — Procure a quart of canned quinces ; open 
the can, and heat the fruit in it ; drain in a colander ; dish on a thick 
bed of rice as directed for peaches a la conde [No. 249] ; garnish with 
candied fruits, surround with small rice croquettes ; reduce the quince 
syrup with some marmalade and two glasses of madeira wine, pour this 
over the quinces, and serve. 



No. 72. 

Tuesday, March 13. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Puree of carrots a 1' Allemande. 

Fried perch a 1' Anglaise ; 
Saratoga potatoes. 

Fillets of mutton a la Polonaise ; 
Jerusalem artichokes a la Georgienne. 

Roast guinea-fowls a la Perigueux ; 
Doucette salad. 

Gelee au champagne. 



COOKERY BOOK. 123 

Puree of Carrots a 1' Allemande. — Scrape, wash well, and slice 
fine the outer parts of a dozen large red carrots ; put them in a stew- 
pan with four ounces of butter and a sliced onion ; stir and fry long 
enough to evaporate the moisture ; moisten with a quart of white broth, 
cover and cook slowly for two hours, add a quart of bechamel sauce 
(if none is available, two ounces of flour kneaded with butter and a 
quart of boiling milk will do nearly as well), rub through a colander ; 
return this to the stewpan, dilute with veal or chicken broth, stir and 
boil slowly for fifteen minutes ; thicken with a liaison of six egg-yolks 
diluted with half a pint of cream ; rub again through a fine sieve, stir 
with a wooden spoon, without boiling ; finish with two ounces of butter, 
a little sugar, and salt if required ; pour in the soup tureen, add a pint 
of boiled nouilles, cut in short pieces, and serve. 

Fried Perch a 1' Anglaise. — Procure three pounds of medium- 
sized white perch ; cleanse, wipe dry, and make small incisions on both 
sides ; roll in flour, immerse in beaten eggs, then roll in fine bread- 
crumbs ; fry to a nice color ; drain on a cloth, salt, dish up on a folded 
napkin, surround with fried parsley and quartered lemons, and serve 
with a bowl of tomato sauce [No. 197]. 

Saratoga Potatoes.— [No. 320.] 

Fillets of Mutton a la Polonaise. — Take two fillets of young, 
fleshy, and not too fat mutton (that is, a short saddle, divided laterally, 
the spine being removed) ; remove all the suet covering the minion 
fillets, also all the fat and sinews covering the larger ones ; put the 
fillets in an earthen basin with a marinade (No. 28), and let marinate 
overnight ; then, with a larding-needle, insert rows of small and short 
shreds of fat pork in the surface, and put on the spit to roast for about 
fifty minutes ; put a cup of sour cream and a cup of marinade in the 
dripping-pan, and baste the meat with this occasionally while roasting ; 
pare and dish up the fillets, and surround them with large stuffed 
mushrooms ; strain the drippings and take off the fat, add two ladle- 
fuls of veloute sauce, two tablespoonfuls of beef-extract and juice of 
a lemon ; pour this in a sauce-bowl, and serve with tiie meat. 

Jerusalem Artichokes a la Georgienne. — Boil a number of 

Jerusalem artichokes in salted water ; peel, cut in slices, and put in a 
frying-pan with melted butter, salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; fry five 
minutes ; dish up with a skimmer, put more butter in the frying-pan, 
heat well, drop in two handfuls of fine fresh bread-crumbs, fry slightly 
brown, pour the whole over the vegetable, and serve. 

Roast Guinea-fowls a la Perigueux. — Pick, singe, draw, and 
truss nicely two tender guinea-fowls ; cover with bardes of lard, and 
roast forty m'nutes. 



124 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Sauce Perigueux. — Put in a saucepan three ladlefuls of espagnole 
sauce, two glasses of white wine, a little mignonette pepper, and two la- 
dlefuls of beef-extract; reduce to the desired consistency, add half a pint 
of truffles chopped fine ; pour out into a sauce-bowl, and serve along 
with the birds dressed on toasted slices of bread. 

Doucette Salad.— [No. 8i.] 

Gelee au Champagne. — Clarify a quart of sweet jelly with an 
ounce and a half of gelatine as directed (No. 2) ; cool partially, add a 
pint bottle of champagne, then the juice of two oranges and two 
lemons filtered through a feuter or filtering paper ; mix with a spoon ; 
imbed a jelly-mould in ice, pour the jelly into it, and cool thoroughly ; 
when ready to serve, immerse in tepid water, wipe the mould quickly, 
invert on a flat dish, and serve. 



No. 73. 

Wednesday, March 14. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Mutton a la Cowley. 

Boiled salmon, oyster sauce ; 
Potatoes a 1' Anglaise. 

Calf's head in tortue ; 
Fried oyster-plant. 

Roast squab a la Gallicienne ; 
Tomato salad. 

Cream a 1' Andalouse. 

Mutton Soup a la Cowley. — Select a fleshy and not too fat 
rack of mutton ; cut the spine, pare and shorten the ribs, put in a soup- 
pot with the parings and shoulder of mutton, two pounds of soup-beef, 
a little salt, and two gallons of water ; boil, scum ; add two carrots, two 
turnips, and an onion with four cloves in it, two leeks, a head of celery, 
and a few pepper-corns; cover and boil two hours ; drain the rack and 
shoulder and allow the rest to boil two hours longer ; remove all the fat 
and strain the broth through a wet napkin. Meanwiiile cut in small 
squares two carrots, two turnips, and a head of celery ; put these in a 
saucepan with two ounces of butter, fry slightly brown, add three 
quarts of broth, and boil an hour ; divide the rack in eight or more 
chops, pare nicely, warm in a little boiling broth, and put in a soup- 
tureen with a pint of barley boiled three hours and well drained ; take 
off all the fat from the soup, color with a little caramel, pour over the 
chops and barley, and serve. 

Boiled Salmon, Oyster Sauce. — Choose a five-pound piece of 



COOKERY BOOK. 125 

fresh salmon ; boil in salted and acidulated water, cover with a sheet of 
paper and let simmer forty minutes. 

Oyster Sauce. — Cook two dozen oysters, with a little water, butter, 
white and red pepper, and nutmeg ; drain in a colander and strain the 
liquor through a sieve ; knead a tablespoonful of flour with an ounce 
of butter ; dilute with the liquor, stir, boil five minutes, finish with two 
egg-yolks, two ounces of butter, and juice of a lemon ; press through a 
napkin and add the oysters ; drain and dish up the salmon on a folded 
napkin, surround with parsley leaves, and serve, putting the oyster sauce 
in a large bowl. 

Potatoes a 1' Ang-laise. — [No. 216] 

Calf's-Head in Tortue. — Procure a white and well-scalded calf's- 
head ; singe, bone, divide, and cook as directed (No. 360) ; drain on a 
cloth and pare ; dish up as high as possible in the centre of an oval 
dish, putting the two trimmed and curled ears on top, the brain on one 
end and the split tongue on the other ; range on both sides a garniture 
of mushrooms, truffles, quenelles, and beef-palates ; pour a tortue sauce 
over all ; surround with eight eggs, separately fried soft on both sides 
in very hot sweet oil, and serve. 

Tortue Sauce. — Put in a saucepan a pint and a half of espagnole 
and half a pint of tomato sauce, a pinch of red pepper, a bay-leaf, a 
sprig of thyme, two glasses of sherry wine, and a ladleful of strong 
broth ; boil, skim, reduce to the desired consistency, and press through 
a napkin. 

Fried Oyster-Plant. — [No. 313.] 

Roast Squab a, la Gallicienne. — Pick, draw, singe, and roast 
rather rare four squab, and cut them in halves ; knead two ounces of 
mellow butter with two ounces of fresh bread-crumbs, a little pepper 
and chopped parsley ; put a piece of this preparation between the two 
halves of the squab, and bring them together ; range in a sautoir, put 
in the oven and cook five minutes longer ; dish up on four hollow 
slices of toasted bread, so as to keep the squab in the original shape ; 
add a little reduced gravy and the juice of a lemon in the sautoir, 
mix well without boiling, pour over the squabs and serve. 

Tomato Salad. — [No. 186.] 

Cream a 1' Andalouse. — Put in a saucepan twelve egg-yolks, six 
ounces of sugar, a tablespoonful of potato fecula or corn starch ; mix 
well, dilute with a pint and a half of water, and an ounce and a half of 
gelatine ; put this on the fire, stir with a wooden spoon until the mix- 
ture thickens ; remove and stir occasionally while cooling ; add half a 
pint of peach marmalade, and two glasses noyau liqueur and press the 



126 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

whole through a fine sieve with a wooden presser ; imbed a plain mould 
in broken ice, line it about a fourth of an inch thick with sweetened 
cream mixed with a little gelatine ; pour the preparation in the mould, 
place an inverted plate over, and cover with broken ice ; when the 
cream is well set, immerse the mould in tepid water, turn on a folded 
napkin, and serve. 



No. 74. 

Thursday, March 15. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Puree of duck a la Norfolk. 

Lake trout k la Montebello ; 
Potato croquettes. 

Beef glazed a la jardiniere ; 
Boiled dandelions. 



Roast ptarmigan a 1' Ecossaise ; 
Celery, sauce remoulade. 

Pancakes a la Mancelle. 

Pur6e of Duck ^ la Norfolk. — Pick, draw, and roast rare two 
mallard ducks ; put them in a stewpan with four ounces of raw ham, 
a bunch of parsley, two carrots, an onion with three cloves in it, two 
blades of mace, some pepper-corns, and a gallon of beef-broth ; boil, 
cover, and cook slowly for two hours ; skim the fat and strain the broth 
through a napkin ; drain the ducks, pick all the meat from the bones, 
chop and pound fine ; melt in a saucepan four ounces of butter with a 
tablespoonful of chopped shallots ; fry a little ; add a pound of stale 
bread soaked in cold water and well pressed ; stir on the fire with a 
wooden spoon till the preparation becomes a thick, smooth dough ; add 
the pounded meat, dilute with the broth, boil and rub forcibly through a 
very fine sieve ; put the residue in a stewpan, stir, and boil again ; add 
more broth if necessary, skim the froth, finish with two glasses of port 
wine, two ounces of butter, and a pinch of red pepper ; pour into a 
soup-tureen, and serve with a plate of small squares of bread fried in 
butter. 

Lake Trout d la Montebello. — Procure a large lake trout ; 
cleanse, draw by the gills, wash well, and wipe dry ; remove the skin 
from the centre of the fish on one side only, and with a larding-needle 
fasten to this side rows of fine and short shreds of fat pork ; fill inside 
with fish force-meat [No. 12] ; secure the head to the body with a 
string ; place in a narrow fish-boiler with a sliced onion, a bunch of 
parsley, a pint of white wine, and a pint of broth ; cover with a but- 



COOKERY BOOK. 127 

tered paper, boil, and cook slowly in the oven for fifty minutes ; taking 
care to baste the fish once in a while with the gravy and to glaze it to a 
nice color ; drain the fish, strain and free the gravy of its fat, thicken with 
two ounces of butter kneaded with an ounce of flour and an ounce 
of curry-powder ; stir, boil fifteen minutes, add two ounces of butter 
and lemon juice, and pass through a fine strainer ; dish up the fish, sur- 
round with heads of mushrooms and fish quenelles, and send to table 
with the sauce in a large sauce-bowl. 

Potato Croquettes. — [No. 75.] 

Beef Glazed a la Jardiniere. — Put a round piece of beef weigh- 
ing about eight pounds in a braisiere with a piece of butter ; brown it 
slightly all round, drain the butter off ; add to the beef a sliced carrot, an 
onion, salt and pepper, and a bunch of parsley ; moisten with a pint of 
tomato sauce, a glass of brandy, and three pints of broth ; cover and 
cook slowly for three hours ; strain and skim the fat off the gravy, 
thicken with an ounce of flour diluted with a little cold broth ; stir, 
boil the gravy down to the desired consistency, and press through a 
napkin ; pare and dish up the beef, and surround with a garnishing a 
la jardiniere [No. 7] ; pour some of the sauce over the beef, and serve 
the rest in a sauce-bowl. 

Boiled Dandelions. — Pick and wash thoroughly some dandelions; 
boil in salted water for twenty minutes ; drain in a colander ; put in a 
saucepan with salt, pepper, and three ounces of butter in small bits ; 
mix well with the aid of two forks, and serve. 

Roast Ptarmigan a T Ecossaise. — Prepare and roast three or 
four ptarmigan as directed [No. 67] ; brown slightly in clarified butter 
about four ounces of fresh white-bread crumbs, and drain ; dish up the 
birds, strew the crumbs over, put some water-cress on each end of the 
dish ; serve with a bowl of gravy made of the drippings, and quartered 
lemons on a plate. 

Celery, Sauce Remoulade. — [No. 86.] 

Pancakes a la Mancelle. — Prepare some pancake batter as di- 
rected [No. 253] ; butter two small flat frying-pans, and make a num- 
ber of slightly-browned, thin pancakes ; spread some sweetened pur^e 
of chestnuts mingled with a glass of maraschino, over each one ; roll 
them up, besprinkle with fine sugar, pare off the ends, and glaze of a 
nice color in a very hot oven ; dish up in a circle, and serve. 



128 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 75. 

Friday, March i6. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Vegetable, farmer's style. 

Boiled halibut, cream sauce ; 
Croquettes of potatoes. 

Round of beef a la Calabraise ; 
Baked macaroni. 

Red-head duck, orange sauce ; 
Celery salad. 

Apple fritters, currant-jelly sauce. 

Vegetable Soup, Farmer's Style. — Pare and cut in thin slices 
three carrots, three turnips, two onions, two leeks, and half a cabbage ; 
put them in a stewpan with four ounces of butter and a little sugar ; 
fry slightly brown ; dilute with three quarts of beef-broth ; boil two 
hours, skim, add a handful of sorrel and chervil cut fine, and boil five 
minutes longer ; put in a soup-tureen about four ounces of thin slices 
of bread slightly toasted, pour the boiling soup over, cover, and serve. 

Boiled Halibut, Cream Sauce. — Procure a five-pound-piece of 
halibut ; put it in a fish-kettle, cover with cold water, add salt and a 
cup of white vinegar ; put a sheet of white paper over, boil slowly, and 
let simmer forty minutes on the side of the fire ; drain, dish up on a 
folded napkin, surround with parsley-leaves, and serve with a bowl of 
cream sauce. 

Cream Sauce. — Melt in a saucepan an ounce of butter with an 
ounce of flour; stir, and fry two minutes, but do not brown ; dilute with 
a pint of milk ; add salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a bay-leaf ; stir, and boil 
five minutes ; finish with two ounces of butter in small bits ; mix well, 
and press through a napkin. 

Potato Croquettes. — Boil two quarts of peeled potatoes in salted 
water, drain, and put them in the oven five minutes, to dry ; turn into 
a basin ; add two ounces of butter, salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; mash 
quickly, press through a colander with a potato-masher ; return to the 
saucepan, adding four egg-yolks ; stir on the fire with a wooden spoon 
for five minutes longer, turn into a dish, and let cool ; divide into parts 
the size and shape of a large cork ; roll in pulverized crackers, dip in 
beaten eggs, roll in crackers again, and fry to a nice color in plenty of 
hot lard ; drain, dish up on a folded napkin, and serve. 

Round of Beef a la Calabraise. — Have about an eight-pound- 
piece of beef ; put it in a stewpan with a piece of butter ; fry brown all 
round, drain off the butter ; add a bunch of parsley, an onion with four 
cloves in it, a sliced carrot, salt, and pepper ; moisten with two quarts 



COOKERY BOOK. 129 

of light broth and a wineglassful of brandy, cover, and cook slowly for 
three hours, taking care to turn the meat once in a while in the sauce ; 
meanwhile peel carefully two dozen medium-sized white onions, besprin- 
kle with fine sugar and fry for ten minutes in butter till slightly 
browned ; drain the butter, add a pint of broth, and cook uncovered in 
a moderate oven for about an hour, taking care to baste the onions 
occasionally with the gravy ; drain the beef, strain, and free the gravy 
of its fat, thicken with an ounce of flour browned in butter, and boil 
down to a demi-glaze ; dish up the beef, pour some of the sauce over, 
surround with the glazed onions, and serve the rest of the sauce in a 
sauce-bowl. 

Baked Macaroni. — Boil a pound of macaroni in salted water for 
twenty minutes ; drain, season with pepper, nutmeg, and a little salt ; 
add a pint of cream sauce, six ounces of butter in small bits, and six 
ounces of grated parmesan cheese, and mix well with a wooden 
spoon ; butter a hollow baking-dish ; put the macaroni in, giving it a 
dome-form; pour more cream sauce over, besprinkle with bread-crumbs 
and grated cheese, put small bits of butter on top, and bake half an 
hour in a moderate oven. 

Red-Head Duck, Orange Sauce. — Pick, draw, singe, truss 
nicely, and roast rare two red-head ducks. 

Orange Sauce. — Dilute the drippings in the pan with a pint of 
broth ; strain, and remove the fat ; reduce to one half with half a pint 
of thick brown gravy and the juice of two oranges ; skim, press through 
a napkin, add the rinds of the oranges cut in fine shreds, and serve in a 
sauce-bowl along with the ducks. 

Apple Fritters, Currant-Jelly Sauce. — Prepare and cook apple 
fritters as directed [No. 5], and serve with a sauce-bowl of currant jelly 
stirred up with apple sauce. 



No. 76. 

Saturday, March 17. — Bill of fare for eight persons: 

Soup : Rabbit k la polonaise. 

Broiled shad a la Clermont ; 
Saratoga potatoes. 

Leg of mutton, pure'e of chestnuts ; 

Fried parsnips. 

Veal cutlets in Belle-vue; 
Lettuce and egg salad. 

Profiteroles au chocolat. 

Rabbit-Soup ^ la Polonaise. — Procure two tender rabbits ; skin, 



I30 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

draw, take up the large and minion fillets, remove the sinews, and keep 
these till wanted ; put the rest of the rabbits in a stewpan with a little salt, 
two pounds of soup-beef, a pound of ham, a knuckle of veal, and eight 
quarts of water ; boil, scum, add two carrots, an onion with four cloves 
in it, two leeks, a bunch of parsley, pepper-corns, two blades of mace, 
and a head of celery ; cover, and boil slowly for four hours ; remove 
the fat, strain the broth through a napkin, thicken three quarts of it 
with three ounces of flour cooked in butter ; boil half an hour ; skim, 
add two ounces of butter and six egg-yolks, dilute with a little broth, 
and press the whole through a napkin ; cut the reserved fillets in thin 
slices, cook briskly in a sautoir with a little butter, moisten with a glass 
of white wine, and mingle the whole with the soup ; put a pint of cooked 
rice in a soup-tureen, pour the soup over, and serve. 

Broiled Shad a la Clermont. — Get a large roe shad, also the roe 
of another ; scale and split down the back ; take the roe and keep with 
the other until wanted ; remove the spine, cleanse nicely, wash and wipe 
dry ; make small incisions on both sides, and put the fish in a dish for 
an hour with salt, pepper, sweet oil, and lemon juice ; drain, besprinkle 
with bread-crumbs, and broil slowly for about half an hour ; make eight 
pieces out of the roes, and have also eight large oysters ; roll them 
all in beaten eggs and bread-crumbs, and fry of a nice color ; dish 
up the shad, surround with the roes and oysters, and serve, with fine- 
herbs sauce [No. 307] in a sauce-bowl. 

Saratoga Potatoes. — [No. 320.] 

Leg of Mutton, Puree of Chestnuts. — Remove the hip and 
thigh bone from a large leg of mutton ; season, and insert shreds of 
fat pork inside ; tie firmly in the original shape, and put in a braisiere 
with a piece of butter ; fry brown all round ; drain the butter, add a 
bunch of parsley, a sliced carrot, an onion with two cloves in it, a quart 
of broth, and two glasses of sherry wine ; cover and cook slowly for 
three hours ; strain the gravy, take off the fat, and reduce with half a 
pint of espagnole sauce ; pare and dish up the mutton, pour the reduced 
gravy over ; ornament the knuckle with a fancy ruffle of white paper, 
and serve, with a puree of chestnuts separately in a hollow dish. 

Puree of Chestnuts. — Shell and blanch two quarts of chestnuts 
[No. 331] ; put them in a saucepan, cover with broth, and cook an hour ; 
press forcibly through a fine sieve, dilute to the desired consistency with 
more broth and two ounces of butter. 

Veal Chops in Belle-vue. — Select and pare eight nice veal 
chops ; with a larding-pin fasten across, short, oblong pieces of trufifles, 
fat pork, and red beef-tongue ; cook in a sautoir with the parings of the 



COOKERY BOOK. 131 

cutlets and white beef-broth ; drain, and cool between two tin sheets 
with a weight on top ; have eight moulds of the same shape as the 
chops, but a little larger ; place them on ice, pour two tablespoonfuls 
of clarified meat jelly [No. 362] in each, and make a small ornament 
of fancifully cut slices of truffles and white of egg in each mould ; add 
a little more jelly to cover the ornament ; then pare nicely and add the 
chops, fill the moulds to the top with jelly, and keep on ice till well 
set ; pour some jelly to set in a dish, immerse the moulds in tepid water, 
then remove them ; dish up the chops in a circle, garnish the base and 
centre with jelly chopped fine, and range neatly cut triangles of jelly on 
the edge of the dish. 

Profiteroles au Chocolat. — Make a sweet pate a choux, and pre- 
pare two dozen small, round cakes as directed [No. 47] ; egg the surface 
and bake ten minutes ; fill the cakes with cream a la frangipane [No. 
347] ; spread a little more frangipane in a dish, range the profiteroles in 
pyramid form in the centre, and pour over them a chocolate sauce [No. 
40] ; put the dish in the oven for two minutes, then serve. 



No. 77. 

Sunday, March 18. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Semolina and sorrel. 

Broiled brook-trout ; 

Potatoes a la Duchesse ; 

Cucumbers. 

Spring lamb, mint sauce ; 
Green peas. 

Pain de foies de volaille. 



Bavarois glace au marasquin. 

Semolina and Sorrel. — Boil three quarts of beef-broth, let drop 
into it like rain, six ounces of semolina, stirring all the while ; boil slowly 
for thirty minutes, skim, add two handfuls of sorrel cut in fine shreds, 
boil ten minutes longer, and serve. 

Broiled Brook-Trout. — Procure eight medium-sized brook-trout ; 
scale, cut off the fins, draw by the gills ; with the aid of the handle of 
a teaspoon remove the blood-vessel that lies along the spine, wash and 
wipe dry ; cut small incisions on both sides of the fish, season with salt 
and pepper, baste with oil, and broil for about fifteen minutes and of a 
nice color ; put a cold maitre d' hotel sauce [No, 276] on a dish, range 
the trout on this sauce, and serve, with quartered lemons on a plate. 

Roast Spring Lamb. — Select a hind quarter of spring lamb : 



132 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

remove the spine carefully without injuring the fillets ; cover the outer 
part with the leafy fat from the inside, tie with strings and roast in a 
moderate oven for an hour ; take off the strings, dish up the lamb, 
drain off the fat, and make a gravy with the drippings ; strain this over 
the lamb, add a paper ruffle to the knuckle-bone, and serve, with a bowl 
of mint sauce. 

Mint Sauce. — Put in a small kitchen-vessel cold water and white- 
wine vinegar in equal parts, a very little salt, and a tablespoonful of 
brown sugar ; stir to melt the sugar, then add some finely cut (not 
chopped) fresh mint, and serve. 

Green Peas. — Cook some green peas in plenty of boiling salted 
water, drain in a colander ; put in a saucepan, adding salt, butter, and 
a little sugar ; mingle well by tossing the saucepan, and serve. 

Pain de Foies de Volatile. — Clean and pare a quart of chicken- 
livers (they may be had from the dealers) ; put them in a buttered sau- 
toir with slices of fat pork, four chopped shallots, a sprig of thyme, a 
bay-leaf, and a glass of sherry wine ; cover, let simmer and reduce very 
slowly for an hour ; let cool, pound in a mortar, add four ounces of 
butter, half a pound of bread panada [No. 294], and six egg-yolks ; 
season with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg, and rub the whole through 
a fine sieve ; line a plain charlotte-mould with very thin bardes of lard, 
put the liver in, intermingling with a few black truffles (if any are on 
hand) ; cover with bardes of lard and a round piece of paper ; put this 
in a larger saucepan with boiling water to half the height of the mould ; 
cover and cook without boiling in a moderate oven for two hours ; press 
down slightly and let cool in the mould ; slide a knife around, turn on 
a dish, trim a little, surmount the top with square cuts of meat jelly 
[No. 362], surround with the chopped trimmings of jelly, and serve. 

Bavarois glace au Marasquin. — Place an entremet copper- 
mould of about three pints in slightly salted broken ice ; put in a kitchen- 
basin half a pint of cold thick syrup, an ounce of crystallized gelatine 
dissolved in a glass of water, then a glass of maraschino ; stir this prep- 
aration on ice until it begins to thicken ; then put into it sufficient of 
well-whipt cream (creme fouettee) ; mix carefully, pour into the pre- 
pared mould, put a sheet of paper over, cover hermetically ; bury in a 
pail of salted ice for at least an hour ; when ready to serve, immerse in 
tepid water, take off the lid and paper, and turn on a cold dish. 

Whipt Cream (Cr^me Fouettee d la Chantilly). — Surround 
a round hollow vessel with broken ice, put a quart of fresh cream into 
it ; then with a willow or wire egg-beater, whip the cream slowly and 
steadily, until it is firm and has risen to about thrice the original quan- 



COOKERY BOOK. 133 

tity ; drain it on a hair-sieve, return to the vessel, sweeten with eight 
ounces of powdered and two ounces of vanilla-flavored sugar ; mix care- 
fully, and keep on ice till wanted. 



No. 78. 

Monday, March 19. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Puree of onions a la Bretonne- 

Fried oysters a la Monroe ; 
Omelet of potatoes. 

Leg of pork, English style ; 
Fried parsnips. 

Mutton chops a la Mancelle ; 
Tomato salad, sauce Mayonnaise. 

Cream cake. 

Puree of Onions a la Bretonne. — Peel, slice, and parboil a quart 
of white onions ; drain, put into a stewpan with four ounces of melted 
butter ; fry a light brown, add two ounces of flour, mix well, dilute 
with three quarts of broth, season with salt and pepper, and press 
forcibly through a fine sieve ; return to a stewpan, heat to a boil, 
finish with two pats of butter, and serve with small squares of bread 
fried in butter. 

Fried Oysters a la Monroe. — Procure three dozen freshly 
opened oysters ; spread and drain on a clean cloth ; put a little red 
pepper upon each one, roll in pulverized crackers, immerse in well-beaten 
eggs, mixed with the same quantity of well-whipt cream, and roll again in 
fresh and fine white-bread crumbs ; press gently with the blade of 
a knife, fry the oysters (only a few at a time) in clear hot fat ; 
drain on a cloth, salt a little ; dish up on a folded napkin, surround 
with fried parsley and quartered lemons, and serve. 

Omelet of Potatoes. — [No. 316.] 

Leg of Pork, English Style. — Choose a leg of tender pork ; 
make transverse incisions in the rind, then insert deeply a long knife 
and cut an opening between the lean and fat of the surface ; prepare a 
stufiSng with four ounces of stale white bread soaked in cold water and 
well pressed, four ounces of sausage-meat, two eggs, a tablespoonful of 
bleached and pressed chopped onion, two ounces of mellow butter, 
salt, pepper, sage, and chopped parsley ; mix well, put into the deep cut 
between the fat and lean, tie on one end and roast on the spit or in a 
moderate oven for two hours ; put two sprigs of sage in the dripping-pan 
taking care to baste the pork occasionally ; dish up the pork, take off 



134 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

the fat and make a gravy with the drippings ; strain this over, and serve 
the pork with a bowl of apple-sauce [No. 51]. 

Fried Parsnips.— [No. 321.] 

Mutton Chops a la Mancelle. — Cut and pare eight mutton 
chops ; trim nicely, season with salt and pepper, and put in a sautoir 
with four ounces of melted butter ; set on the fire and fry briskly 
and slightly brown on both sides ; put the chops on a plate, and drain 
the butter off ; add a little broth and a ladleful of espagnole sauce 
in the sautoir, boil a minute and put the chops in this sauce ; 
pour some puree of chestnuts on a dish, dish up the chops in a 
circle, alternating with heart-shaped slices of bread fried in butter, pour 
more puree in the centre of the dish and the sauce over the chops ; put 
small white-paper rufifles on the bones, and serve. 

Tomato Salad, Sauce Mayonnaise. — Choose, pare, and cut in 
slices some ripe tomatoes, put in a salad-bowl with salt, pepper, and 
vinegar, cover with sauce mayonnaise [No. 254], and serve. 

Cream Cake. — Sift a pound of flour on the table, make a hole in 
the centre, adding a little salt and about a pint of cream ; knead 
the whole together and let rest an hour ; spread on the table with a roll- 
ing-pin, enfold half a pound of mellow butter in the paste and proceed 
as directed for feuilletage [No. 278] by giving five turns to the paste ; 
let rest ten minutes, flatten to the thickness of half an inch ; cut a round 
piece of about ten inches in diameter, place on a baking-sheet, egg 
the surface, and with the point of a knife cut a few crosswise in- 
cisions ; bake forty minutes in a moderately heated oven ; besprinkle 
with powdered sugar, and glaze by exposing the cake to a very hot fire, 
long enough to melt the sugar. 



No. 79. 

Tuesday, March 20. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Rice a 1' Indienne. 

Baked cod a la Ste. Menehould ; 
Potatoes a la Lyonnaise. 

Gristles of veal an veloute ; 
Celery a la Tessinoise. 

Brant-goose, currant-jelly sauce ; 
Tomato salad. 

Apples with quince jelly. 

Rice a 1' Indienne. — Cut a chicken in small pieces ; put it in a 
saucepan with four ounces of butter, a coarsely cut onion, and four 
ounces of raw ham cut small ; put this on the fire, stir until light brown; 



COOKERY BOOK 135 

besprinkle with two ounces of flour, and two ounces of curry-powder, a 
little salt and pepper ; mix well ; dilute with a quart of cold water and 
two quarts of beef-broth ; stir to a boil, add a bunch of parsley [No. 
327] and the rind of a lemon tied together ; cover, boil half an 
hour ; add four ounces of rice, and boil half an hour longer ; skim the 
fat, remove the parsley, pour in a soup-tureen, and serve. 

Baked Cod a la Ste. Menehould. — Boil in salted and acidu- 
lated water, drain, and remove the skin and bones of about six pounds 
of fresh cod ; prepare a pint of bechamel sauce with the addition of 
three egg-yolks ; butter a baking-dish, place a layer of fish in the cen- 
tre, mask with bechamel sauce, add the rest of the fish, and cover with 
more sauce ; besprinkle with white-bread crumbs and grated parmesan 
cheese ; put small bits of butter on top, and bake in a moderately 
heated oven for about twenty minutes, to give a nice color ; squeeze the 
juice of a lemon over, and serve in the baking-dish. 

Potatoes ^ ia Lyonnaise. — [No. 6 ] 

Gristles of Veal au Veloute. — Procure five or six pounds of 
gristle of veal ; cut this in pieces, and steep in warm water for an hour ; 
drain, put in a stewpan on the fire with sufficient cold water to cover ; 
add salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; scum, and boil for five minutes, then 
drain in a large colander, and save the broth ; cool, wash well, and trim 
the pieces ; melt in a stewpan four ounces of butter, add the veal, and 
fry briskly for five minutes ; besprinkle with two ounces of sifted flour, 
mix well with a wooden spoon, dilute gradually with the strained broth, 
and stir till it boils ; add a bunch of parsley, and an onion with two 
cloves in it; cover, and cook gently for about fifty minutes ; skim off 
the fat, remove the onion and parsley, finish with two ounces of butter 
in small bits, and the juiee of a lemon ; mix well by tossing the 
saucepan ; boil no longer ; dish up in a pyramid form, pour the sauce 
over, surround with heart-shaped slices of bread fried in butter, and 
serve. 

Baked Celery a la Tessinoise. — Remove the green stalks, 
pare, and wash well eight large heads of celery; parboil, drain, and then 
cook in a sauloir with salt, pepper, nutmeg, bardes of fat pork, and a 
little white broth ; when done, drain on a cloth, strain and free the gravy 
of its fat, thicken with a tablespoonful of flour kneaded in butter, stir, 
and boil ten minutes ; add three egg-yolks and a handful of grated 
Swiss cheese, and mingle well ; range the celery in a buttered baking- 
dish, mask with the sauce, besprinkle with bread-crumbs and grated 
cheese ; bake in a brisk oven for ten minutes, and serve in the bak- 
ing-dish. 



136 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Brant-Goose, Currant-jelly Sauce. — Singe, draw, and dress 
two large and fat brant-geese ; roast briskly for about twenty minutes; 
dish up, pour a little rich gravy round them, and serve with currant- 
jelly sauce [No. 275] in a sauce-bowl. 

Tomato Salad. — [No. 186.] 

Stewed Apples with Quince Jelly. — Peel and remove the 
cores of eight or more large cooking-apples ; put them in boiling 
water with lemon-juice and a little sugar, and cook very slowly ; when 
done, drain, and put in a thick syrup for about an hour ; drain again, 
range on a compot-dish, mask each apple with a large, thin, rounded 
slice of quince jelly, pour some of the syrup round, and serve. 



No. 80. 

Wednesday, March 21. — Bill of fare for eight persons 

Soup : Puree of barley. 

Eels a la Villeroi ; 
Potatoes a la Colbert. 



Calf's tongue, tomato sauce ; 
Puree of lentils. 

Leg of mutton a 1' Armenienne ; 
Cabbage salad a la Savoyarde. 

Vanilla tarts. 

Puree of Barley. — Wash well and put a pint of barley in a 
stewpan with two quarts of white broth, a little salt, white pepper, and 
nutmeg ; stir, heat to boiling, cover, and cook slowly for four hours ; 
press forcibly through a very fine sieve by rubbing vigorously with a 
wooden presser ; return the residue to the stewpan, stir and boil again ; 
dilute to the desired consistency, add half a pint of boiling cream, a 
little sugar, and two ounces of butter ; mix well, and serve with small 
crotjtons fried in butter. 

Eels a la Villeroi. — Procure two large eels ; cleanse nicely and 
cut in about five-inch lengths ; put in a saucepan with a bunch of pars- 
ley, sliced onions, and aromatics ; cover with salted and acidulated 
water, and boil slowly for ten minutes ; let cool, drain on a cloth, im- 
merse in a thick bechamel sauce reduced with four egg-yolks ; range 
separately on a tin sheet and cool thoroughly ; trim neatly, roll in pul- 
verized crackers, dip in beaten eggs, and roll again in fine bread-crumbs ; 
smooth with the blade of a knife and fry to a nice color in plenty of hot 
fat ; drain and dish up on a folded napkin ; surround with fried pars- 
ley, and serve with a bowl of fine-herbs sauce [No. 307]. 

Potatoes ^ la Colbert.— [No. 285.] 



COOKERY BOOK. 



137 



Calf's Tongue, Tomato Sauce. — Take four fresh calves' 
tongues ; soak in warm water for an hour ; drain and parboil for ten 
minutes ; cool, pare, and scrape the white skin off, and wash well ; 
dilute in a stewpan an ounce of flour with two quarts of water, set this 
to boil, and add the tongues, salt, a glass of vinegar, a bunch of parsley, i 
and an onion with three cloves in it ; cover and cook slowly for about 
an hour and a half ; drain on a cloth, split in two, dish up, pour a 
tomato sauce over, and serve. 

Puree of Lentils. — Soak for three hours and cook a quart of len- 
tils as directed [No. 59] ; press through a sieve, dilute to the desired 
consistency, add four ounces of butter, salt, and pepper ; pour into a 
hollow dish, surround with triangle-shaped croiitons fried in butter, and 
serve. 

Leg of Mutton a 1' Armenienne. — Procure a medium-sized 
leg of mutton ; bone off the hip and thigh bone, shorten the knuckle, 
put the mutton in a deep earthen vessel with a marinade as directed for 
hare [No. 28] ; let the meat steep for about eight hours, taking care to 
turn and press it down occasionally ; drain, truss firmly, roast on the 
spit or in the oven with the marinade in the dripping-pan, and baste 
occasionally while cooking ; boil the drippings with half a pint of thick- 
ened gravy, skim the fat, strain, and reduce to a demi-glaze sauce ; un- 
truss and dish up the mutton, put a white-paper ruffle on the knuckle, 
pour part of the sauce over, and serve with the rest in a sauce-bowl. 

Cabbage Salad a la Savoyarde. — Remove the green leaves and 
cut a head of savoy cabbage in fine shreds ; put it in a kitchen-vessel 
with salt, pepper, and a glass of vinegar to steep for an hour ; then 
drain and transfer the cabbage to a salad-bowl ; cut in small squares 
three ounces of salt pork, put in a frying-pan with an ounce of melted 
lard, and fry pretty crisp ; pour the whole very hot over the salad ; mix 
quickly, and serve immediately. 

Vanilla Tarts. — Scald, blanch, dry, and bruise very fine four 
ounces of almonds with four ounces of sugar and half a vanilla bean, 
rub through a sieve, and mix with an ounce of sifted flour ; butter 
and line with tart-paste [No. 181] a dozen tart-moulds ; beat to a froth 
six egg-whites, add the sifted almonds, mix carefully, and fill the 
prepared moulds ; then cook in a moderately heated oven, besprinkle 
with powdered sugar, and serve on a folded napkin. 



138 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 81. 

Thursday, March 22. — Bill of fare for eight persons 

Soup : Chicken broth with poached eggs. 

Broiled mullets with melted butter ; 

Stewed potatoes. 

Aloyau of beef a la Frangaise ; 
Croquettes of macaroni. 

Golden plover on toast ; 
Doucette salad. 



Madeleine cake. 

Chicken-Broth with Poached Eggs. — Prepare three quarts 
of consomme as directed [No. 310] ; heat to boiling in a sautoir some 
slightly salted and acidulated water ; drop in, one by one, eight fresh 
eggs ; let simmer a minute and transfer them to cold water, pour the 
boiling broth in a soup-tureen ; trim the eggs, put them in the boiling 
broth, and serve. 

Broiled Mullets with Melted Butter. — Cleanse, wipe dry, and 
make small incisions on both sides of about four pounds of mullets ; 
season with salt and pepper, baste with sweet oil, and broil a nice color 
over a moderate charcoal fire ; range on a dish ; melt (not boil) three 
ounces of table butter, and add the juice of a lemon ; pour this over the 
fish, and serve. 

Stewed Potatoes. — Peel and slice some cold boiled potatoes, 
put in a saucepan with water (nearly enough to cover), an ounce of 
butter, salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; cover and boil till the liquid is partly 
reduced ; add chopped parsley and four ounces of butter in small bits ; 
mingle well by tossing the saucepan until the sauce is creamy, and serve 
in a deep dish. 

Aloyau of Beef a la Frangaise. — Procure a middle cut of loin 
of beef weighing about ten pounds, remove the superfluous suet over 
the fillet ; saw off the spine ; tie the beef firmly, and put in a braisiere 
with some of the suet chopped fine ; set on the fire and fry slightly 
brown, and stiff all round ; drain off the fat ; add a bunch of parsley 
[No. 327], sliced carrots, and onions ; moisten with three pints of 
broth, a pint of tomato sauce, and a glass of brandy ; cover and cook 
slowly for three hours ; drain and pare the beef, strain and free the 
gravy of its fat, and reduce to the consistency of a demi-glaze sauce; 
dish up the beef, pour some of the gravy over, and serve. 

To prepare what is left for breakfast : Remove the bones ; put 
the meat in a hollow kitchen-vessel or a large salad-bowl of adequate 
size ; pour the rest of the reduced gravy over ; cover with an inverted 



COOKERY BOOK. 139 

plate, put a light weight on top, and cool overnight in the larder ; then 
turn out on a round dish, and serve. This course may be ad- 
vantageously adopted with most of the braised meats left over from 
dinner. 

Croquettes of Macaroni. — Cook half a pound of macaroni in 
salted water ; drain, put it in a saucepan with four ounces of butter, 
three ounces of grated parmesan cheese, salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and 
a ladleful of allemande sauce ; mix well, turn into a small buttered 
square tin pan, cover with a buttered paper, put another tin pan and a 
light weight over and let cool ; turn out on a table ; divide with a knife 
or an oval paste-cutter, roll in grated cheese, dip in beaten eggs, roll in 
bread-crumbs, fry slightly brown, drain on a cloth, and serve on a nap- 
kin. 

Broiled Golden Plover on Toast. — Pretty good specimens of 
this beautiful bird appear in market, at this time of the year, when the 
other game is getting scarce : Procure eight or more fresh and fat golden 
plover ; pick, singe, slit by the back, and flatten slightly ; season with salt 
and pepper, and broil rare over a brisk fire ; range on dry toast, dish up, 
pour a little melted maitre d' hotel sauce over each bird, add two hand- 
fuls of water-cress and quartered lemons, and serve. 

Doucette (corn) Salad. — Pick nicely, wash well, and drain thor- 
oughly some doucette ; put in a salad-bowl, and, at the last moment, 
season with salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar, and mix well. 

Madeleine Cake. — Put in a hollow pastry-vessel half a pound of 
fine sugar, half a pound of sifted flour, six eggs, and a wineglassful of 
brandy ; mingle with a wooden spoon, then add half a pound of melted 
butter, and mix carefully, but not more than is necessary to incorporate 
it with the paste ; pour into a large or a dozen small, well-buttered ma- 
deleine-moulds, and bake in a moderately heated oven. 



No. 82. 
LENTEN DINNER. 

Friday, March 23. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : A la Chanoinesse. 

Carp in matelote ; 
Potatoes a la Vaudoise 



Small anchovy patties. 

Galantine of eels a la Nifoise ; 

Celery in glass. 

Omelet with peaches. 



140 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Soup a la Chanoinesse. — Prepare three quarts of fish-broth as 
directed [No. 327] ; thicken with three ounces of flour cooked in three 
ounces of butter, but not browned ; add white and red pepper, a glass 
of sherry wine and the liquor of two dozen cooked oysters ; boil half an 
hour, skim, and press through a napkin into another stewpan ; finish 
with a little crayfish-butter to give the soup a rosy tint ; boil in salted 
water, and cut in slices the milts of two shad ; shell and pare the tails 
of two dozen crayfish ; cut in fine shreds a dozen heads of mushrooms, 
warm, and put all these in a soup-tureen with the oysters, pour the soup 
over, and serve. 

Carp in Matelote. — Choose one large or two medium-sized carp ; 
draw, truss nicely, place on the grate in a fish-kettle, with two sliced 
onions, a bunch of parsley, a little salt, pepper-corns, and two cloves of 
garlic ; moisten with a quart of red wine and a pint of water ; cover, 
boil, and cook slowly for forty minutes ; drain the fish, and keep warm ; 
strain the gravy, reduce to one quart, thicken with an ounce and a half 
of flour browned in butter, boil half an hour, skim, finish with four 
ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of essence of anchovies, and the juice 
of a lemon, and press through a napkin ; dish up the fish, surround v,'ith 
a garnishing of small glazed onions, mushrooms, and a pint of cooked 
scallops ; pour the sauce over all, and serve. 
Potatoes a la Vaudoise.— [No. 338.] 

Small Anchovy Patties. — Prepare a pound of feuilletage paste 
as directed [No. 278] ; with a rolling-pin, roll it down to an eighth of 
an inch thick ; let stand five minutes ; with a round paste-cutter three 
inches in diameter, cut sixteen rounds in the paste ; bring the paste 
trimmings together, roll again, and cut sixteen more of the same size ; 
moisten slightly a baking-sheet, and arrange the last pieces in rows 
about an inch apart ; put on the centre of each one a small piece of 
fish force-meat mingled with chopped parsley and puree of anchovies 
[No. 41] ; wet the edge, and cover the force-meat with the sixteen 
rounds first cut ; press gently with the thumb to make the two rounds 
adhere, then with the blunt end of a smaller paste-cutter, press lightly 
around the balls so as to mark a ring on the top ; egg the surface with 
a paste-brush, and bake to a nice color in a hot oven for about fifteen 
minutes ; dish upon a folded napkin, and serve very hot. 

Galantine of Eels a la Nigoise.— Skin, pare, singe to remove 
the second skin, draw and remove the spines of two large eels ; flatten 
slightly with a cleaver, fill with a very consistent fish force-meat [No. 
12], mingled with a salpicon of cooked scallops, lobster, and truffles cut 
in squares ; roll tightly and separately in buttered napkins, fasten both 



COOKERY BOOK. 141 

ends firmly, and tie the eels with strings five or six places along the 
body ; place in a narrow fish-boiler, season highly with salt and aromatics, 
and a garnishing of vegetables ; moisten with white wine and fish-broth 
enough to cover the eels, heat to boiling, cover and cook slowly for an 
hour ; drain and cool enough to be handled ; remove the napkins care- 
fully, rinse them in tepid water, and then press the water out ; return the 
eels to the napkins, tie firmly at both ends and along the body again, and 
hang by one end in the larder with a weight tied to the other end, so as 
to keep the eels round and straight ; let cool overnight, remove the 
napkins, cut in ten or more pieces, pare nicely, glaze with the clarified 
and reduced gravy slightly colored ; dish up in pyramid form on a 
buttered square slice of bread ; surround with a macedoine of vege- 
tables [No. 91] in separate groups, and serve with a bowl of ni9oise 
sauce [No. 154]. 

Omelet with Peaches. — Proceed as directed [No. 365], but use 
peaches instead of quinces. 



No. 83. 

Saturday, March 24. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Vermicelli with broth. 

Fried smelts, tartar sauce ; 
Broiled potatoes. 

Curry of chicken with rice ; 
Stewed celery. 

Porterhouse steaks, Boston style ; 
Lettuce salad with cream. 

Marmalade fritters. 

Vermicelli with Broth. — To make beef-broth for soups, the base 
of vermicelli soup, put in a stock-pot pour pounds of fresh beef, two 
gallons of cold water, and two tablespoonfuls of salt ; set to boil, and 
scum well ; add four carrots, two turnips, an onion with two cloves in 
it, a small parsnip, four leeks, and a head of celery tied together ; boil 
slowly on the side of the fire for five hours ; skim off the fat, strain 
through a wet napkin, and give the broth a rich yellow color with a few 
drops of good caramel ; parboil half a pound of vermicelli, cool, and 
drain it, then cook in boiling broth for ten minutes : pour this into a 
soup-tureen, add sufficient broth, and serve. 

Fried Smelts, Tartar Sauce. — Cleanse nicely three pounds of 
smelts ; cut off the fins, and wipe the fish dry ; roll them in pulverized 
crackers, dip in beaten eggs, and roll in crackers again ; fry pretty 



142 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

crisp and of a nice color in plenty of hot fat ; drain, salt a little, and 
serve on a folded napkin, surrounded with fried parsley. 

Tartar Sauce. — Put in a salad-bowl two egg-yolks, salt, pepper, 
and nutmeg ; mix thoroughly with a wooden spoon while adding to 
this, slowly and gradually, a pint of sweet oil, dropping in a teaspoon- 
ful of vinegar at a time, when the sauce appears too thick ; add 
some finely chopped gherkins, capers, parsley, and chervil, and two 
tablespoonfuls of prepared mustard ; mingle well, and serve in a sauce- 
bowl. 

Broiled Potatoes. — [No. 355.] 

Curry of Chicken with Rice. — Procure two tender chickens ; 
singe, draw, and cut in pieces ; melt four ounces of butter in a stew- 
pan, add the chicken with two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions and a 
few slices of ham ; fry until slightly browned ; add an ounce and a 
half of flour and two tablespoonfuls of curry powder or paste ; mingle 
well, dilute with veal or chicken broth, stir and heat to boiling ; add a 
little salt and the rind of a lemon tied with a bunch of parsley ; cover, 
and cook slowly ; when done, remove the fat, parsley, and slices of 
ham ; taste, and ascertain if the same is of a proper consistency ; dish 
up, and surround with a border of plain boiled rice. 

Stewed Celery. — [No. 276.] 

Porterhouse Steaks, Boston Style. — Procure two tender por- 
terhouse steaks ; pare nicely, season with salt and pepper, baste with 
sweet oil, and broil rather rare and of a nice color ; put in a saucepan 
four ounces of fresh white-bread crumbs, dilute with two ladlefuls of 
beef-broth, add salt and pepper ; stir and boil ten minutes, press 
forcibly through a strainer, as you would a bread sauce ; add two table- 
spoonfuls of fresh grated horseradish and two ounces of butter in small 
bits ; mix well, boil no longer ; dish up the steaks with small bits of 
butter on top, pour the sauce in a sauce-bowl, and serve with the 
steaks. 

Lettuce Salad with Cream. — Pick, cleanse, wash well, and drain 
thoroughly some lettuce ; cut every heart in four pieces, and range in a 
salad-bowl over the leaves ; prepare a dressing as follows : put in a 
bowl, salt, pepper, chopped chives, and chervil, a tablespoonful of white- 
wine vinegar, and half a pint of double-thick sweet cream ; pour over 
the salad at the last moment ; mix well, and serve. 

Marmalade Fritters. — Spread two lines thick of peach marma- 
lade on two-inch round cuts of wafer-bread ; lay other cuts of the same 
size over, press gently with the hand, and smooth the edges ; dip in a 
flour batter (first adding to the batter some whites of eggs beaten to a 



COOKERY BOOK. 143 

froth), fry slightly brown in hot lard ; drain on a cloth, besprinkle with 
powdered sugar, dish up on a folded napkin, and serve. 



No. 84. 

Sunday, March 25. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Puree of chicken a la Milesienne. 

Brook-trout a la maitre d' hotel ; 
Potato croquettes a la Bechamel. 

Fore-quarter of lamb stuffed ; 
Green peas, English style. 

Head-cheese with jelly ; 
Curled celery in glass. 

Charlotte glacee a la Medicis. 

Puree of Chicken a la Milesienne. — Prepare a puree of fowl 
with rice as directed [No. 288] ; scald and pound to a pulp four ounces 
of pistachios; dilute gradually with half a pint of milk, and press through a 
napkin to extract the liquid ; heat the puree, with the extract of pistachios, 
half a pint of boiled cream, a little sugar, and two ounces of fine butter; 
stir until well heated, but not boiling ; pour in the soup-tureen, and 
serve with a plate of thin white-bread lozenges slightly buttered and 
dried in the oven. 

Brook-Trout d la Maitre d' Hotel. — Procure eight middle- 
sized brook-trout ; cleanse, prepare, and broil as directed [No. 77] ; 
range on a dish, cover with a mellow maitre d' hotel sauce, surround 
with quartered lemons, and serve very hot. 

Potato Croquettes a la Bechamel. — [No. 75.] 

Fore-Quarter of Lamb Stuffed. — Cut off the neck and shin- 
bone of a fore-quarter of lamb ; crack the ribs and trim the spine ; 
make a deep incision under the shoulder and fill with a stuffing made as 
follows : Put in a kitchen-vessel four ounces of stale white bread 
(crumbed-up), a cup of raw cream, two ounces of raw lean of veal or 
lamb chopped fine, two ounces of butter, some chopped shallot, mint 
and parsley, salt, white pepper, nutmeg, and two eggsj_jth-is"d3ne, sew 
up the aperture, fold the breast inside, tie nicely, and roast for about 
an hour, according to size ; pare both ends, remove the strings, and 
dish up ; take off the fat and make a rich gravy by adding some strong 
broth to the drippings ; strain over the meat, and serve with a bowl of 
mint sauce. 

Green Peas, English Style.— Cook three pints of fresh-shelled 
green peas in salted boiling water ; drain in a colander ; pour boiling 



144 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

hot into a hollow dish, place small pats of table butter on top, and serve 
immediately. 

Head-Cheese with Jelly. — Procure a salted pig's-head ; steep in 
cold water overnight, clean thoroughly, wipe dry, thrust a red-hot iron 
into the ears and nostrils ; put the head in a stewpan with water to 
cover, a bunch of parsley garnished with sage, four bay-leaves, and 
sprigs of thyme, a handful of pepper-corns, whole spices, and four cloves 
tied in a small cloth, two onions, and a quartered carrot ; cover, and 
cook slowly ; let cool enough to be easily handled, drain, lay the rind 
against the sides and bottom of an oblong mould ; fill with the meat 
and fat cut in squares, and the tongue and ears cut in shreds ; put a 
close-fitting board over with a ten-pound weight on top, and let cool 
thoroughly ; turn on a dish, garnish over and round with meat jelly 
[No. 362] made with part of the liquid, a gill of sherry wine, and beef- 
broth ; serve. 

Curled Celery in Glass. — Remove the green, pare the roots and 
wash well two bunches of celery ; split the stalks through the whole 
length, making small incisions at the top besides ; put the stalks into cold 
water for some time and they will curl nicely ; serve in a celery glass 
with a caster of salad ingredients. 

Charlotte Glacee a la Medicis. — Place a round paper on the 
bottom and line the sides only of a two-quart charlotte-mould with lady- 
fingers ; fill with white-chocolate (cacao) ice-cream [No. 35], and place 
in the freezing-box or in a sorbetiere ; bury in salted ice until the mo- 
ment of serving ; turn on a folded napkin, remove the paper, garnish 
the top with a group of preserved chestnuts and fruits, and serve. 



Xo. 85. 

Monday, March 26. — Bill of fare for eight persons. 

Soup i la Dieppoise. 

Broiled shad, sauce Italienne ; 
Potatoes a la Lyonnaise. 

Pork chops, sauce piquante ; 
Parsnip cakes. 

Capon pullet a la Cavour ; 
Celery, sauce remoulade. 

Oranges i la Demidoff. 

Soup el la Dieppoise. — Cut in fine shreds some leeks, celery, and 
parsley roots ; put in a stewpan with two ounces of butter ; fry long 
enough to evaporate the moisture, dilute with three quarts of broth, add 



COOKERY BOOK. 145 

a pint of finely sliced potatoes, and boil half an hour ; put four ounces 
of sliced and dried french bread in a soup-tureen, with a tablespoonful 
of finely cut parsley ; pour the boiling soup over ; cover, and serve. 

Broiled Shad, Sauce Italienne. — Cleanse nicely, split down the 
back, and broil a large roe shad ; dish up inside uppermost ; put a 
little butter on top, and serve with a sauce-bowl of italian sauce 
[No. 284]. 

Potatoes ^ la Lyonnaise. — [No. 6.] 

Pork Chops, Sauce Piquante. — Procure eight pork chops ; trim 
neatly, season with salt and pepper, dip in melted lard or butter, roll in 
white-bread crumbs, and broil thoroughly and of a nice color on a 
moderate charcoal fire ; dish up in a circle ; surround with slices of 
gherkins on the edge of the dish ; pour a piquante sauce [No. 351] in 
the centre, and serve. 

Parsnip Cakes. — Peel, cut in pieces, and cook some parsnips in 
salted water, mingled with a tablespoonful of flour ; drain thoroughly, 
chop fine, press through a colander, return to the saucepan, add salt, 
pepper, a little flour, and three egg-yolks ; stir on the fire for five min- 
utes and put on a plate to cool ; then turn on a floured table ; divide 
in the shape and size of a small codfish ball ; dip in beaten eggs, roll in 
pulverized crackers, smooth nicely, and fry slightly brown in very hot 
lard ; drain on a cloth, range on a folded napkin, add some fried parsley, 
and serve. 

Capon Pullet ^ la Cavour. — Choose a large and tender capon 
pullet ; singe, draw carefully, remove the lights, wash inside, and wipe 
dry ; stuff it moderately with cooked stuffing [No. 344], tie both ends, 
truss nicely, stiffen the breast over a brisk fire to facilitate larding, and 
fasten rows of short shreds of larding pork upon it ; place in an oval 
stewpan, the larded side uppermost, with a quartered carrot, an onion 
with two cloves in it, two leeks, two stalks of celery tied together, and 
a bunch of parsley with aromatics ; moisten with white broth enough 
to cover half of the fowl ; cover with a buttered paper, put the stewpan 
on the fire, and let the broth come to a boil ; then put the stewpan in 
the oven and cook slowly for about an hour, taking care to baste the 
breast occasionally, and to glaze it to a bright color ; drain the fowl ; 
strain, skim the fat, and reduce the liquid with half a pint of velout^ 
sauce ; dish up the pullet, surround with small timbales a la Turinoise 
[No. 140] ; pour part of the reduced sauce round the dish and serve the 
rest in a sauce-bowl. 

Celery Roots (Knobs), Sauce Remoulade.— Wash well, boil 
rather firm, and cool two bunches of celery roots ; pare off the peel, 



146 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

cut the roots in thin slices, and range in a salad-bowl with chopped 
chervil and tarragon ; pour a well-seasoned remoulade sauce over, 
mix well, and serve very cold. 

Remoulade Sauce. — Put in a salad-bowl the yolk of an egg with 
salt, pepper, and . a tablespoonful of prepared english mustard; stir 
steadily with a wooden spoon while dropping, slowly at first and then 
more quickly, half a pint of sweet oil with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar 
and a little more mustard. 

Oranges a la Demidoff. — Pare off carefully six nice oranges ; 
divide all the quarters, remove the seeds and put the fruit in an earthen 
vessel, with a pint of thick syrup (thirty-two degrees) and two wine- 
glassfuls of maraschino liquor ; stir a little, cover with an inverted 
plate, and let steep for six hours ; dish up in a compot-dish, pour 
enough syrup over, and serve. If the compot-dish is too deep, invert 
a small plate in the middle before putting in the oranges. 



No. 86. 

Tuesday, March 27. — Bill of fare for eight persons 

Soup : Brunoise with vermicelli. 

Striped bass with soft roes ; 
Mashed potatoes. 

Tenderloin steaks, tomato sauce ; 
Stuffed cabbage. 

Roast kidney of veal ; 
Lettuce salad. 



Apple charlotte, currant jelly. 

Brunoise with Vermicelli. — Prepare three quarts of brunoise 
soup as directed [No. 259] ; parboil four ounces of vermicelli for five 
minutes in salted water ; cool, drain, and add to the soup ; boil five min- 
utes longer, and serve. 

Striped Bass with Soft Roes.-^Procure a four-pound striped 
bass and the milts (soft roes) of four shad ; cleanse and trim the bass 
nicely and soak the milts in cold water ; put the bass on the grate in a 
fish-kettle with a chopped onion, salt, mignonette pepper, a small bunch 
of parsley, a little butter, two glasses of white wine, and some white 
broth ; cover with a buttered paper ; set to boil, and cook slowly in 
the oven for about half an hour, taking care to baste the fish once in a 
while with the gravy ; drain the fish and keep warm ; strain the gravy 
and thicken with a tablespoonful of flour kneaded with butter, boil ten 
minutes, add the juice of a lemon and two ounces of butter, mingle well, 



. COOKERY BOOK. 147 

but boil no longer ; put the milts in salted and acidulated water, let boil 
and simmer for five minutes, and drain on a cloth ; slide the bass on a 
dish, cut the milts in two, and range them around the fish ; pour the 
sauce over, besprinkle with a chopped parsley, and serve. 

Mashed Potatoes. — [No. 15.] 

Tenderloin Steaks, Tomato Sauce. — Flatten, pare, season 
with salt and pepper, four good-sized tenderloin steaks ; put them in a 
sautoir with four ounces of heated beef-fat, fry briskly and slightly 
brown on both sides, and cook them rather rare ; drain, dish up in a 
row, alternately with round slices of bread fried in butter ; drain off 
the fat, put a pint of tomato sauce in the sautoir and boil a minute ; 
pour this around the steaks, and serve. 

Stuffed Cabbage. — Choose a large, white, and heavy savoy cab- 
bage ; take off the green leaves, parboil in salted water for about ten 
minutes ; cool in cold water, drain on a cloth, and remove the heart 
carefully from the centre ; make a stuffing with a pound and a half of 
sausage-meat, half a pound of leaf-lard chopped fine, and four egg- 
yolks ; season highly and mix well ; put part of the stuffing in the 
middle of the cabbage, and the rest among the leaves ; give the cabbage 
the original shape, cover with bardes of fat pork, tie with strings and 
put in a large-enough saucepan, with mignonette pepper and nutmeg, 
an onion with two cloves in it, a bunch of parsley, and a quart of 
strained broth from the surface of the stock-pot ; cover, boil, and let 
simmer slowly for about two hours and a half ; drain the cabbage ; 
strain and free the gravy of its fat, thicken with a tablespoonful of flour 
browned in butter ; boil the gravy five minutes and press through a nap- 
kin ; remove the strings and bardes of pork, and dish up the cabbage ; 
pour the sauce over and around, and serve. 

Roast Kidney of Veal. — Select a short and close loin of fat, 
white veal with the kidney attached (there are two loins in veal as well 
as in beef, the close one and the open one — that is, the right and the 
left ; the former is preferable, because the kidney and fat adhere); saw 
off the spine, tie the veal firmly, and roast slowly on the spit or in the 
oven for about an hour and a half ; untie, pare, and dish up the veal ; 
add two ladlefuls of rich gravy to the drippings, skim the fat, strain 
the gravy over the meat, and serve. 

Lettuce Salad. — [No. 98.] 

Apple Charlotte with Currant Jelly.— Line a plain charlotte- 
mould with thin slices of bread dipped in clarified butter as directed 
[No. 48] ; fill the hollow with very stiff sweetened apple sauce mixed 
with melted currant jelly ; cover with a slice of bread dipped in butter ; 



148 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

put in a baking-pan, cover and cook in a hot oven for half an hour ; in- 
vert on a dish, let stand a while, wipe off the butter that may ooze out ; 
take off the mould, pour more melted currant jelly round the charlotte, 
and serve. 



No. 87. 

Wednesday, March 28. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Cream of semoule. 

Broiled mullets, sauce ravigote ; 
Fried puff potatoes. 

Capon pullet a la bourgeoise ; 
P"ricasseed eggs a la tripe. 

Mutton-chops, demi-glaze ; 
Tomato, sauce Mayonnaise. 

Quince tart a la Portugaise. 

Cream of Semoule. — Put a pint of semoule in a stewpan with 
two ounces of butter, three pints of white broth, a little salt, white 
pepper, and nutmeg ; stir, boil, cover, and cook slowly for an hour ; 
press through a fine sieve with a wooden presser ; return to the stewpan, 
dilute to the desired consistency with boiled milk, stir on the fire until 
nearly boiling ; finish with three egg-yolks diluted with a cup of cream 
and two pats of butter ; mix well, and serve with a plate of small lozenges 
of bread fried white in clarified butter. 

Broiled Mullets, Ravigote Sauce. — Procure about three pounds 
of medium-sized mullets ; cleanse, wash, and wipe dry ; cut small in- 
cisions on both sides ; baste with oil, broil nicely, and serve with a ra- 
vigote sauce [No. 256] in a sauce-bowl. 

Fried Puff Potatoes. ^Peel some potatoes and slice them a sixth 
of an inch thick ; wash, drain well, and put to fry in plenty of pretty hot 
fat ; remove to the side and cook slowly ; drain in a colander and 
heat the fat again ; when very hot, drop all the potatoes in at once, stir 
steadily with the skimmer, and fry crisp to a nice color, drain on a cloth, 
salt a little, dish up on a folded napkin, and serve immediately. 

Capon Pullet a la Bourgeoise. — Select a large tender fowl ; 
singe, draw, cut off the legs, thrust the stumps inside, and truss nicely ; 
cover with bardes of lard, put in a stewpan with two ounces of butter ; 
fry slightly brown and drain off the fat ; add a bunch of parsley, a 
carrot cut in small pieces and trimmed ; moisten with a pint and 
a half of broth, two ladlefuls of tomato sauce, and two glasses of white 
wine ; set to boil, cover, cook half an hour ; add two dozen small white 
onions, slightly sugared and browned in frying butter, and boil half 



COOKERY BOOK. 149 

an hour longer ; strain and free the gravy of its fat ; reduce to the con- 
sistency of a demi-glaze with half a pint of espagnole sauce, and 
then press through a napkin ; remove the strings and dish up the fowl, 
putting the carrots and onions round the dish ; take out the parsley, 
pour some of the sauce over all, serve the rest in a sauce-bowl. 

Fricasseed Eggs a la Tripe. — Boil hard, shell, and cut up 
a dozen eggs in slices, and keep warm ; cut crosswise in thin slices two 
large white onions, put them into a saucepan with three ounces of 
melted butter ; stir and fry slowly till slightly brown, besprinkle with an 
ounce of sifted flour, dilute with boiled cream, season with salt, pepper, 
and nutmeg ; stir and boil a few minutes ; add the eggs, mingling care- 
fully with a wooden spoon ; heat a little without boiling, pour in a 
hollow dish, and serve. 

Mutton Chops a la Demi-Glaze. — Procure eight fat-covered 
mutton chops, pare, flatten, season with salt and pepper ; put them in a 
sautoir with four ounces of melted butter ; fry briskly on both sides 
and cook rather rare ; drain the butter off, put half a pint of espagnole 
sauce, two tablespoonfuls of beef-extract and a glass of sherry wine in 
the sautoir, stir a little, dish up the chops in a circle alternately 
with chop-shaped slices of bread fried in butter ; pour the sauce 
over, add small paper rufifies to the bones, and serve. 

Tomato, Sauce Mayonnaise. — [No. 254.] 

Quince Tart a la Portugaise. — Prepare and butter a plain 
pastry-ring on a round buttered baking-sheet, line with short paste [No. 
351] ; trim the edge, put a layer of apple sauce in the bottom, cover 
with quartered, canned quinces, and cook in a brisk oven ; cool par- 
tially, mask with melted quince jelly or the reduced syrup from the 
can, let cool, and serve. 



No. 88. 

Thursday, March 29. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Gumbo of chicken. 

Bouchees of lobster ; 
Fried potatoes. 

Corned ham with sour-crout ; 
Stuffed mushrooms. 

Snow-birds on toast ; 
Beet and onion salad. 

Compote of prunes. 

Gumbo of Chicken. — Select a tender, fleshy, but not too fat 

chicken ; singe, draw, and cut in small pieces ; put in a stewpan three 



I50 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

ounces of butter, with a chopped onion, and two ounces of ham cut in 
small squares ; fry a little, add the chicken, stir, and fry the whole 
slightly brown ; sprinkle two ounces of flour over, mingle well, dilute 
with three quarts of broth; add white and sweet chilli, pepper, and 
a bunch of parsley ; stir, boil, cover, and cook slowly for about forty 
minutes ; skim off the fat, remove the parsley ; let drop in the soup, 
like rain, four tablespoonfuls of gumbo powder, stirring all the while ; 
boil no longer ; pour in a soup-tureen, and serve with a dish of plain- 
boiled rice. 

Bouchees of Lobster. — Prepare half a pound of fueilletage paste 
[No. 278] ; roll it down a quarter of an inch thick on a floured table, 
and, with a three-inch wide, round paste-cutter, cut eight or more 
rounds in the paste ; range them an inch apart on a slightly moistened 
baking-sheet ; egg the surface, make a round incision with a smaller 
paste-cutter dipped in warm water, and trace a few cuts on the centre ; 
cook in a brisk oven, empty them, save the covers, and keep warm ; put 
in a small saucepan two handfuls of bechamel sauce slightly tinted with 
lobster butter [No. 283] ; add sufficient cooked lobster cut in small 
squares, salt, white and a pinch of red pepper ; mingle well ; fill the 
bouchees, cover, range them on a folded napkin, and serve. 

Fried Potatoes. — [No. 139.] 

Corned Ham with Sour-crout. — Soak overnight, then cook a 
salted ham with sour-crout as directed on [No. 57] ; drain the sour- 
crout, and put it in a large dish ; pare and place the ham thereon ; orna- 
ment the hock-bone with a neatly cut white-paper ruffle ; surround with 
the sliced carrots and sausages, pour a reduced espagnole sauce round 
the base, and serve. 

Stuffed Mushrooms. — Procure a dozen or more large fresh 
mushrooms ; take off the heads, pare the edges, and wash them ; clean 
the stalks, wash with the parings, chop fine, and press the water out ; 
put in a saucepan two ounces of butter with a tablespoonful of chopped 
shallots ; fry a little, add the chopped mushrooms, stir, and fry again 
till the moisture is evaporated ; sprinkle half an ounce of flour over, 
mingle and dilute with a little broth, add salt, pepper, nutmeg, and 
chopped parsley ; stir and boil until pretty consistent ; cool partially, 
fill the mushroom heads ; range them on a baking-dish, besprhikle with 
bread-crumbs, put small bits of butter on top, and bake in a moderate 
oven for fifteen minutes ; range on a dish, pour a little espagnole sauce 
around, press the juice of a lemon over, and serve. 

Snow-Birds on Toast. — Procure three dozen snow-bunting birds ; 
pick, clean, trim, prepare, cook, and serve as directed [No. 256] for 
reed- birds. 



COOKERY BOOK. 151 

Beet and Onion Salad. — Peel and cut crosswise in thin slices 
two medium-sized white onions ; put them in a kitchen-vessel with a lit- 
tle salt and vinegar and let them soak for an hour ; cook and peel some 
beets, cut in slices, and put in a salad-bowl ; drain the onions ; add 
them to the beets, with oil, vinegar, salt and pepper to taste ; mix 
well. 

Compote of Prunes. — Soak two pounds of prunes in tepid water 
for two hours ; drain, put them in a stewpan with a pint of red wine, a 
pint of water, a piece of cinnamon bark, and a pound of sugar ; cover, 
and cook slowly for about two hours ; see if the liquid is reduced to 
the consistency of a light syrup ; remove the cinnamon, turn the prunes 
into an earthen vessel, let cool, and serve in a compot-dish. 



No. 89. 

LENTEN DINNER. 

Friday, March 30. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Stewed oysters. 

Brandade de morue (codfish); 

Coldslaw ; 

Boiled potatoes. 

Baked eggs a la Siennoise. 

Hot eel pie a la Cumberland. 

Compote of apricots. 

Stewed Oysters. — Procure four dozen middle-sized oysters and 
put them with their liquor in an oyster stevvpan, with a pint of water, 
two ounces of butter in small bits, salt, white pepper, and grated nut- 
meg ; set on a brisk fire, and stir them occasionally while heating ; 
when boiling stir again, and boil a minute longer so that all the oysters 
may be equally cooked ; remove to the side ; add two ounces of butter, 
two ladlefuls of white sauce, and half a pint of boiled milk ; mix well, 
pour into a soup-tureen, and serve with a plate of butter-crackers. 
When freshly opened and quickly cooked, oysters boil tender and make 
no scum. 

Brandade de Morue. — Have four pounds of thick dry cod ; take 
off the skin ; cut the fish in pieces, and soak in cold water for twenty- 
four hours, changing this four or five times ; put in cold water, and cook 
slowly until very hot but not boiling, for twenty minutes ; drain, re- 
move all the bones ; put the fish in a saucepan, and crumble with a 
wooden spoon ; then move to the side of the fire ; add the juice of a 
lemon, and, little by little, about a pint of the best sweet oil, stirring 



152 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

vigorously all the while, and dropping a little milk in when the prepara- 
tion becomes too thick ; when this is done the brandade should be 
creamy and pretty consistent ; finish with a little garlic and chopped 
parsley fried with a little oil ; taste, add a little salt and pepper, if re- 
quired ; pour into a hollow dish : surround with heart-shaped crotitons 
fried in sweet oil, and serve. 

Coldslaw. — Procure a large white savoy cabbage ; remove the 
core and green leaves ; cut the cabbage in fine shreds, parboil, cool, 
drain thoroughly, and put in a hollow earthen vessel with salt and 
vinegar ; mingle well, put an inverted plate over, and let steep two 
hours ; drain, and serve in a deep dish with a caster of salad in- 
gredients. 

Boiled Potatoes. — [No. i.] 

Baked Eggs a la Siennoise. — Boil hard a dozen eggs ; take 
off the shells, and cut the eggs in thick slices ; have a buttered, deep 
baking-dish ; place a layer of eggs in the centre, sprinkle with parmesan 
cheese, add another layer of eggs, then more cheese, and so on until the 
whole is used, finishing with cheese ; mask with a cream sauce thick- 
ened with three egg-yolks ; besprinkle with fine bread-crumbs ; put 
small bits of butter on top, bake slightly brown in a brisk oven for ten 
minutes, and serve in the baking-dish. 

Hot Eel Pie, Cumberland Style. — Prepare a hot pie-crust as 
directed [No. 22]; cut in pieces two large eels; put them in a sauce- 
pan with a pint of red wine, water, salt, pepper, a garnished bunch of 
parsley, a sliced onion, three cloves, and two cloves of garlic ; set to 
boil, and cook slowly for twenty minutes ; drain, and transfer the eels 
into another saucepan, and keep warm ; strain and thicken the gravy 
with an ounce and a half of flour browned in butter ; boil half an hour, 
finish with four ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of essence of an- 
chovies, and the juice of a lemon ; then press through a napkin ; range 
the pieces of eel in the crust with two dozen small glazed onions ; pour 
the sauce over, cover the crust, and serve on a folded napkin. 

Compote of Apricots. — Procure a quart of firm, canned Cali- 
fornia apricots; drain on a sieve, and reduce the syrup with a wine- 
glassful of maraschino and a little more sugar ; range the apricots in a 
compot-dish, pour the cooled syrup over, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK, 153 

No. 90. 

Saturday, March 31. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Consomme, with bread-crubts. 

Baked shad with roes ; 
Mashed potatoes a 1' Espagnole. 

Poule au pot ; 
Stuffed eggs with cream. 

Beefsteaks a I'Anglaise ; 
Dandelion salad. 



Omelet soufflee aux pistaches. 

Consomme, with Bread-Crusts. — Put into a soup-pot three 
pounds of soup-beef, an ounce of salt, and six quarts of cold water ; 
boil slowly and scum well ; add two carrots, a turnip, two leeks, an 
onion with two cloves in it, and a fat and tender fowl, nicely trimmed 
and well trussed ; cover the pot partially and let simmer slowly ; about 
an hour after, the fowl ought to be done ; transfer it to a stewpan, with 
a little broth from the surface ; cover and keep warm till wanted ; add 
more water to the soup-pot and boil four hours longer ; this done, skim 
off all the fat and strain the broth through a napkin into a stewpan ; 
meanwhile, cut in thin slices and dry in the oven four ounces of french 
bread ; put this in a soup-tureen ; pour three quarts of boiling broth 
over ; cover, and serve. 

Baked Shad with Roes. — Procure one roe-shad and the roe of 
another ; scale, pare, and cleanse nicely ; bestrew a buttered baking- 
dish with chopped onions and parsley ; make a lengthwise, deep incision 
on each side of the fish, put in the dish with the second roe, and add 
more chopped onion and parsley, salt, pepper, two glasses of white wine, 
half a pint of white broth, and small bits of butter ; put in a moderately 
heated oven, baste the fish once in a while, and cook for half an hour ; 
drain and thicken the gravy with a tablespoonful of flour kneaded with 
butter ; slit the second roe and put it lengthwise on the fish ; pour the 
sauce over, besprinkle with fine bread-crumbs, add small bits of butter 
on top, and bake fifteen minutes longer, till slightly browned ; press the 
juice of a lemon over, and serve in the baking-dish. 

Mashed Potatoes a 1' Espagnole. — Peel, boil, and mash some 

potatoes with a piece of butter, in the ordinary way ; add a tablesi)onn- 
ful of chopped and slightly fried onion and chopped parsley, dilute with 
broth, and serve. 

Poule au Pot. — Drain thoroughly, untie, and dish up the fowl 
kept warm from the consomme ; reduce some broth to the consistency 
of a rich gravy, pour over the fowl, and serve. 



154 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Stuffed Eggs with Cream. — Boil hard and shell eight eggs ; 
slit them in two ; take the yolks, pound them with the same quantity of 
bread soaked in cream and well pressed, four ounces of butter, chopped 
' shallots and parsley, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and three raw yolks ; press 
through a sieve, stuff the eggs, join the halves, and give them the original 
form ; put the rest of the stuffing on a baking-dish, range the eggs over, 
mask with a cream sauce [No. lo] ; besprinkle with bread-crumbs, add 
small bits of butter, and bake nicely for about ten minutes. 

Beefsteaks a I'Anglaise. — Cut eight steaks out of a three-pound 
piece of sirloin or tenderloin of beef ; pare, season with salt and pepper, 
baste with melted butter, and broil rather rare ; dish up in a circle, sur- 
round with small round potatoes fried in butter, put a maitre d' hotel 
sauce in the centre, and serve. 

Dandelion Salad. — Pick and wash some dandelion ; soak in cold 
water for an hour ; drain thoroughly, put in a salad-bowl with finely 
chopped onion ; season at the last moment with salt, pepper, oil, and 
vinegar, and mix well. 

Omelet Soufflee aux Pistaches. — Scald and pound fine four 
ounces of pistaches with an egg-white ; put this in a vessel with six egg- 
yolks, six ounces of powdered sugar, and the rinds of two green limes 
or lemons chopped very fine ; mix thoroughly with a wooden spoon ; 
beat eight egg-whites to a hard froth, mingle carefully with tlie pistaches^ 
etc.; pour into a slightly buttered dish ; give a dome form ; cook in a 
moderately heated oven for about twenty minutes ; besprinkle with 
powdered sugar, glaze of a nice color, and serve immediately. 



No. 91. 

Sunday, April i. — Bill of fare for eight persons: 
Soup : Printaniere, with poached eggs. 

Brook-trout, tartar sauce ; 
Broiled potatoes. 

Lamb chops with green peas ; 
Baked spaghetti. 

Capon a la chancel ere ; 
Salad a la Macedoine. 

Vanilla ice-cream. 

Printaniere, with Poached Eggs. — With a small tube or vege- 
table-scoop cut some carrots and turni[)s ; cook separateh' with a little 
water, salt, sugar, and butter, and reduce to a glaze ; putjn a stewpan 
with two quarts of beef-broth, half a pint of cooked green peas and 



COOKERY BOOK. 155 

string-beans cut in short pieces ; boil ten minutes, skim well, add a 
handful of finely sliced sorrel and chervil, and boil two minutes longer ; 
pour into a soup-tureen with eight eggs soft poached in slightly salted 
and acidulated water, partially cooled and well trimmed, and serve. 

Brook-Trout, Tartar Sauce. — Cleanse, pare, and boil some 
brook-trout as directed [No. 77] ; range on a dish with a little butter ; 
surround with quartered lemons, and serve with a bowl of tartar sauce. 

Broiled Potatoes. — Peel some cold boiled potatoes ; cut them in 
thick slices, season with salt and pepper, dip in melted butter, broil 
nicely, and serve with a little more butter over. 

Lamb Chops Breaded, with Green Peas. — Procure a large 
rack of lamb ; cut in chops, pare neatly, add salt and pepper, dip in 
melted butter, roll in fresh bread-crumbs, and broil nicely ; dish up in a 
circle, fill the centre with green peas, and serve. 

Baked Spaghetti. — [No. 35S.] 

Capon a la ChanceHere. — Singe, draw, and truss a capon nicely; 
expose the breast over the fire for a minute to stretch the skin, then with 
a larding-pin lard the breast with fine shreds of fat pork ; put the capon 
in a flat braisiere, the breast uppermost, with a bunch of parsley, a car- 
rot, an onion, and about a quart of good white broth ; set to boil ; cover 
with a buttered paper, and cook in a moderately heated oven for about 
an hour and a quarter, taking care to baste the larded part occasionally 
with the gravy, so. as to glaze the surface to a rich light-brown color; 
strain and free the gravy of its fat, and reduce to about half a pint ; 
drain, remove the strings, and dish up the capon ; pour some of the 
reduced gravy round, and serve the rest in a sauce-bowl. 

Salad a la Macedoine. — Peel, cook separately, and cut in 
quarter-inch cubes some carrots, turnips, beets, and celery-knobs ; add 
in the same proportion some peas and string-beans cut short ; season 
with salt, pepper, and vinegar ; cover with a cold ravigote sauce ; put a 
small head of cauliflower on top, and serve, mixing at the last moment. 

Cold Ravigote Sauce. — Make a pint of mayonnaise sauce ; stir 
into it a tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, chives, chervil, tarra- 
gon, and shallot, and give the sauce a light greenish tint with vegetable 
green [No. 107]. 

Vanilla Ice-Cream. — Slit and put in a small saucepan a vanilla 
bean, with a little boiling milk, to infuse for fifteen minutes on the side 
of the fire without boiling ; put in a tinned basin twelve egg-yolks with 
twelve ounces of fine sugar ; mix well, dilute with three pints of boiled 
milk, and the vanilla infusion ; put this on the fire, stir continually with 
a wooden spoon until the cream thickens, then strain immediately 



156 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

through a fine sieve into an earthen vessel •, stir once in a while, while 
cooling ; freeze in the ordinary way, and serve either moulded or rocher- 
like on a folded napkin. 



No. 93. 

Monday, April 2. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Printaniere, with herbs. 

Broiled shad with sorrel ; 
Bermuda potatoes. 

Beef braised a la Brisse ; 
Stewed lazagnes. 

Breasts of lamb, shallot sauce ; 
Celery salad. 

Rice and apple pudding au sabayon. 

Printaniere Soup with Herbs. — Cut in fine shreds a head of 
lettuce, a good handful of sorrel, and some chervil ; put these in a 
saucepan with four ounces of butter ; fry five minutes, sprinkle two 
ounces of sifted flour over ; mix and dilute with a quart of water and 
two quarts of veal-broth ; add salt ; stir, and boil ten minutes ; finish with 
a liaison of six egg-yolks, a cup of cream, and two ounces of butter in 
small bits, and mix well without boiling ; slice fine and dry four ounces 
of french bread, put it in a soup-tureen, pour the soup over, cover, and 
serve. 

Broiled Shad with Sorrel. — Procure a roe shad ; scale, pare, 
and cleanse thoroughly ; slit the back, remove the spine, make small in- 
cisions on both sides ; season with salt and pepper, baste with oil, place 
on a heated and oiled double gridiron, and broil nicely and well over a 
moderate charcoal fire ; dish up, add small bits of butter, and serve 
with puree of sorrel [No. 267] separately in a dish. 

Beef Braised a la Brisse. — Take a rump piece of beef weighing 
about eight pounds ; lard with half a pound of salt pork cut in long 
half-inch square pieces, highly seasoned with allspice, chopped parsley, 
and garlic ; tie firmly, put in a stewpan with four ounces of melted fat 
and fry briskly and brown all round ; drain off the fat ; put in the 
stewpan a quart of broth, two ladlefuls of tomato sauce, and a 
wineglassful of brandy, a bunch of parsley, two onions, and about three 
pints of quartered turnips ; boil, cover, and let simmer gently for nearly 
three hours ; drain the beef, remove the parsley, and pour the rest 
through a colander over a saucepan ; free the gravy of its fat and re- 
duce to the consistency of a thin sauce ; press the turnips, etc., through 



COOKERY BOOK. 157 

the colander to make a puree ; put this in a dish ; pare and place the 
beef on the puree ; pour some of the gravy over, and serve. 

Stewed Lazagnes. — Boil a pound of lazagnes in salted water for 
twenty minutes ; drain, put in a saucepan with salt, pepper, nutmeg, 
six ounces of grated parmesan cheese, four ounces of butter, and two 
ladlefuls of allemande sauce ; mix well ; put in a dish, pour a ladleful 
of reduced beef-gravy over, and serve. 

Breasts of Lamb, Shallot Sauce. — Procure two fat breasts of a 
spring lamb ; pare off the red breast-bone and the red skin from the 
surface ; divide each breast with the ribs laterally, in four pieces ; 
flatten and pare a litttle, season with salt and pepper ; baste with melted 
butter, roll in fresh crumbs, and broil slowly over a moderate charcoal 
fire ; dish up in a circle, pour a shallot sauce [No. 207] in the centre, 
surround with water-cress, and serve. 

Celery Salad. — Remove the green stalks, cut in short shreds, wash 
and drain well two bunches of celery ; put them in a salad-bowl ; season 
with salt, pepper, oil, vinegar, and a tablespoonful of mustard ; mingle 
well, and serve. 

Rice and Apple Pudding au Sabayon. — Wash and boil a pint 
of rice for fifteen minutes in two quarts of water ; drain thoroughly, 
put it in a basin with four ounces of fine sugar, four ounces of melted 
butter, and the rind of a lemon chopped fine ; mix well and let cool ; 
wet and press the water out of a large, strong napkin, spread it on the 
table and butter the centre ; have ten large pared cooking-apples, cut in 
slices, and cooked partially with melted butter and sugar in a saucepan ; 
place in the centre of the napkin a layer of rice, then a layer of apples, 
another layer of rice, and so on until the whole is used ; tie the pudding 
firmly in the napkin, plunge it into a large stewpan of boiling water ; 
boil an hour and a half ; drain, take it out of the napkin ; turn on a 
dish, pour a sabayon sauce [No. 143] over, and serve. 



No. 93. 

Tuesday, April 3. — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup 4 la Faubonne. 

Baked flounder a la St. Malo ; 
Potatoes a la Bordelaise. 



Stewed pigeons k V Americaine ; 
Poached eggs with spinach. 

Veal chops 4 la maitre d' h6tel ; 
Onion and oyster-plant salad. 

Apples \ la duche^se. 



158 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Soup ^ la Faubonne. — Peel about two dozen very small white 
onions ; fry slightly brown and cook in broth ; prepare two quarts of 
puree of peas ; cut fine and fry in butter a handful of sorrel, lettuce, 
and chervil ; dilute with a quart of broth and the puree ; add the 
onions and their broth, boil two minutes, skim, and serve. 

Baked Flounder a la St. Malo. — Get a very large flounder ; cut 
the fins short and cleanse nicely ; make an incision in the back from 
head to tail ; part a little and season with salt, pepper, chopped onion, 
and parsley ; place the fish in a buttered baking-dish, the white side 
uppermost, with chopped onions, salt, pepper, small bits of butter, a 
pint of pure dry cider, and the liquor of some cooked mussels ; set to 
boil and cook in a moderate oven for half an hour, basting once in a 
while with the gravy ; drain the gravy into a saucepan and thicken with 
an ounce of flour kneaded with butter ; surround the fish with cooked 
oysters, mussels, and picked shrimp-tails ; pour the sauce over, besprin- 
kle with bread-crumbs, add small bits of butter on top, and bake in a 
brisk oven till nicely browned and the sauce well reduced ; squeeze the 
juice of a lemon over, and serve in the baking-dish. 

Potatoes a la Bordelaise. — [No. 304.] 

Stewed Pigeons a I'Americaine. — Procure six tender, stall-fed 
pigeons ; pick, draw, singe, and truss nicely by thrusting the stumps 
inside ; cut in squares and parboil for a minute four ounces of salt 
pork ; put in a saucepan with two ounces of butter; fry briskly for three 
minutes, add the pigeons, and fry the whole slightly brown ; drain off 
most of the fat, besprinkle with an ounce of sifted flour, mingle well ; 
dilute with a quart of light broth, add a bunch of parsley and eight 
medium-sized onions slightly sugared and browned in butter ; boil, cover, 
and cook slowly for about forty minutes ; take off the parsley, remove 
the fat ; dish up the pigeons, surround with the lard and onions ; see if 
the sauce is reduced to the desired consistency, pour it over all, and 
serve. 

Poached Eggs with Spinach. — Prepare some mashed spinach 
as directed [No. 61] and put it in a hollow dish ; drop, one by one, 
eight eggs in boiling water ; let simmer a minute, drain with a small 
skimmer, pare a little, range them over the spinach, and serve. 

Veal Chops £L la Maitre d' Hotel. — Procure about six fat and 
white veal chops ; pare nicely, flatten, season with salt and pepper, baste 
with melted butter, and broil slowly and well ; dish up in a circle ; put a 
cold maitre d' hotel sauce in the centre ; ornament the bones with small 
white-paper ruffles, and serve. 

Onion and Oyster-Plant Salad. — Scrape and boil in salted and 



COOKERY BOOK. 159 

acidulated water some oyster-plant ; cool, drain on a cloth, cut in two- 
inch lengths, slit the large pieces, and range in a salad-bowl with two 
thinly sliced white onions, chopped parsley, salt, pepper, oil, and vine- 
gar ; mix well. 

Apples a la Duchesse. — Peel about eight very large cooking- 
apples ; with an inch-wide vegetable-scoop, scoop out rounds in the 
apples ; cook these rounds slightly in a simmering syrup and drain on 
a sieve ; remove the cores and make a thick marmalade with the rest of 
the apples ; cool, spread the marmalade on the bottom of a com pot- 
dish ; insert a small stick of angelica in each round of apple ; range 
them nicely over the marmalade ; pour a little of well reduced syrup 
over, and serve. 



No. 94. 

Wednesday, April 4. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Puree of potatoes with chervil. 

Stewed crabs a la Creole ; 
Boiled rice. 

Sirloin steaks with potatoes ; 
Red beans a la Maconnaise. 



Squab, tomato sauce ; 
Beet and lettuce salad. 



Eggs with pistaches. 

Puree of Potatoes with Chervil.— Roast in the oven enough 
large mealy potatoes ; break open, take the pulp and pound it fine with 
a piece of butter ; dilute with boiled milk, season with salt and pepper, 
and press through a fine sieve ; stir and heat again ; add a handful of 
finely cut chervil and four ounces of butter ; pour into a soup-tureen, 
and serve with a plate of small square cuts of bread fried in butter. 

Stewed Crabs a la Creole. — Procure a dozen live, hard-shell 
crabs ; open them and remove the small legs, gills, and flaps ; crack the 
claws, and cut the top shells and bodies in four pieces ; melt in a sauce- 
pan four ounces of butter with two tablespoonfuls of chopped shallots, 
fry long enough to evaporate the moisture, besprinkle with two ounces 
of flour, and mix well ; dilute with half a pint of white wine and a quart 
of white broth ; add salt, pepper, nutmeg, red and sweet chillies, pepper, 
and a bunch of parsley ; stir and boil ten minutes ; put in the crabs ; 
set to boil and let simmer ten minutes longer, tossing the crabs two or 
three times in the saucepan ; dish up in a hollow dish with a skimmer ; 
stir and reduce the sauce to the desired consistency ; remove the bunch 



i6o FRANCO-AMERICAN 

of parsley, pour the sauce over the crabs, and serve with a dish of rice 
boiled a la Creole [No. 8]. 

Boiled Rice.— [No. 169.] 

Sirloin Steaks with Potatoes. — Select four good sized, tender 
sirloin steaks ; have them nicely pared and slightly flattened ; season 
with salt and pepper, baste with sweet oil, and broil rather rare and of a 
nice color over a charcoal fire, put on a dish with a cold maitre d' hotel 
sauce ; surround with nicely fried potatoes, and serve. 

Red Beans a la Maconnaise. — Wash and soak overnight some 
red beans ; put them in a saucepan with three quarts of rain-water, a 
bunch of parsley, an onion with three cloves in it, and a half-pound of 
salt pork ; boil and cook slowly about an hour and a half ; melt two 
ounces of butter with a chopped onion, fry slightly brown, add a pint 
of red wine and reduce one half ; remove the onion, lard, and parsley, 
and drain the beans, putting them with the reduced wine ; add salt, 
pepper, two ounces of butter, and chopped parsley; mix well and serve. 

Squab, Tomato Sauce. — Take six squab, singe, draw, salt, and 
put the livers inside again ; truss nicely, put them in a saucepan with 
four ounces of butter ; fry slightly brown, drain the butter off, and add 
a bunch of parsley, a gill of white wine, and a half-pint of broth \ 
cover and stew slowly for half an hour ; drain, and dish up against a 
small conical fried piece of bread made fast to the centre of the dish ; 
skim the fat, strain and reduce the gravy with a pint of tomato sauce ; 
pour this over the squab, and serve. 

Beet and Lettuce Salad. — Boil, peel, and slice fine some red 
beets ; range them in a salad-bowl over and round some prepared let- 
tuce ; season with salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar at the last moment ; 
mix well and serve. 

Eggs with Pistaches. — Melt in a saucepan four ounces of but- 
ter with an ounce of flour ; mingle well, add a cup of sweet cream, the 
rind of a lemon chopped very fine, an ounce of sugar, eight beaten eggs 
and five ounces of pistaches pounded to a pulp with a little fine sugar ; 
set on a slow fire, and stir steadily with a wooden spoon ; when the 
preparation is of the consistency of rare scrambled eggs, pour it into a 
hollow dish, smooth the surface with the blade of a knife, besprinkle 
with powdered sugar, and glaze nicely with a very hot glazing-iron. 



' COOKERY BOOK. i6i 

No. 95. 

Thursday, April 5. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup a la Fran9aise. 

Boiled cod a la Hollandaise. 

Beef glazed, with lazagnes ; 
Sweet potatoes a la Richmond. 

Broiled English snipe ; 
Bermuda onion and cucumber salad. 

Plain pancakes. 
Soup a la Fran^aise. — Put a rump piece of beef weighing about 
eight pounds in a soup-pot, with some beef bones, a knuckle of veal, 
and three gallons of water ; set to boil and scum well ; garnish with two 
whole carrots, two turnips, a small parsnip, some leeks, and an onion 
with three cloves in it ; cover, and boil slowly for three hours ; transfer 
the beef in a stewpan, the fat side uppermost, with a quart of strained 
broth from the surface ot the soup-pot, and keep till wanted ; add a 
little more water to the pot, and boil an hour longer; drain, pare, and 
cut in pieces the carrots, turnips, and leeks ; put them in a soup-tureen 
over some toasted thin slices of french bread and a little chopped 
chervil ; skim off the fat, color slightly, and strain three quarts of boil- 
ing broth over, cover, and serve. 

Boiled Cod d la Hollandaise. — Trim and cleanse nicely a fresh 
cod ; secure the head to the body and place on the grate in a fish- 
kettle ; cover with salted and acidulated cold water ; put a sheet of 
paper over, boil, remove to the side, and let simmer half an hour ; 
drain, and slide upon a folded napkin ; surround with parsley and 
peeled, boiled potatoes, and serve with a sauce-bowl of melted (not 
boiled) table butter. 

Beef Glazed, with Lazagnes. — Set the beef that has been kept 
from the soup-pot to glaze in a moderate oven for an hour, taking care 
to baste the surface once in a while with the broth and some beef ex- 
tract ; drain on a dish ; take off the fat, strain, and reduce the liquid to 
the consistency of a demi-glaze sauce with a little more broth and two 
ladlefuls of tomato sauce ; prepare a dish of stewed lazagnes [No. 92] ; 
place the beef thereon, pour the reduced gravy around, and serve. 

Sweet Potatoes ^ la Richmond. — Pare and parboil some small 
sweet potatoes ; drain, put in a sautoir with clarified butter, and cook 
of a nice color in the oven ; drain most of the butter off, besprinkle with 
a little salt and chopped parsley, and serve. 

Broiled English Snipe.— Procure eight fresh and fat english 
snipe ; pick, singe, slit down the back, draw, flatten slightly, season 



i62 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

with salt and pepper, and baste with sweet oil ; then broil at the last 
moment briskly and rare over a clear charcoal fire ; range on as many 
slices of toasted bread as there are birds ; dish up, pour over them a 
melted maitre d' hotel sauce ; surround with water-cress, and serve with 
quartered lemons. 

Bermuda Onion and Cucumber Salad. — Peel and cut in fine 
slices some bermuda onions and cucumbers ; place them in an earthen 
vessel with fine salt and broken ice for an hour ; drain and put in a 
salad-bowl with pepper, oil, and vinegar ; mix well, and serve. 

Plain Pancakes. — Mix a pancake preparation as directed [No. 
253], with the addition of a glass of french cognac ; butter two small, 
flat frying-pans, and make about two dozen slightly browned thin pan- 
cakes ; put one upon the other with a little powdered sugar between 
each one on a round, flat dish ; besprinkle the top one with powdered 
sugar, and serve very hot. 



No. 96. 

Friday, April 6. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Riz au lait d' amandes. 

Fried carp ; 
Hashed potatoes with fine herbs. 

Veal chops a la Dreux ; 
Boiled asparagus, white sauce. 

Rump-steaks, horseradish buttter ; 
♦ Lettuce salad. 



Apple marmalade au caramel. 

Riz au Lait d' Amandes. — Wash ten ounces of rice ; put it in a 
stewpan with two quarts of milk, a little salt, and an ounce of sugar ; 
set to boil, stir, and cook slowly for forty minutes ; scald and blanch 
eight ounces of almonds and a few bitter ones ; pound to a pulp ; dilute 
gradually with a quart of milk, to prevent the almonds from becoming 
oily ; press this milk through a strong napkin and mix with the rice at 
the last moment ; stir and heat well, sugar to taste, pour into a soup- 
tureen, and serve. 

Fried Carp. — Procure four good-sized carp ; scale, pare, draw 
carefully, and save the milts ; wash well, and wipe dry ; make small 
incisions on both sides ; immerse in cold milk, roll in flour, and fry to a 
nice color in plenty of hot fat ; immerse the milts as well in milk and 
flour, and fry for three minutes ; drain the carp on a cloth, besprinkle 
with salt, dish up on a folded napkin, put the milk on top, surround 
with quartered lemons and fried parsley, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 163 

Hashed Potatoes with Fine Herbs. — Peel and chop fine some 
cold boiled potatoes ; put in a frying-pan with four ounces of melted 
butter, salt, and pepper ; set on a brisk fire, stir, and fry slightly brown ; 
add chopped parsley and chives ; mix well ; roll in an omelet form, 
drain off the superfluous butter, turn on a dish, and serve. 

Veal Chops d la Dreux. — Choose six thick veal chops, trim 
neatly, and pare out the end of the ribs ; with a larding-pin fasten, 
crosswise, short square shreds of fat pork and ham ; place the chops in 
a buttered sautoir with the trimmings, sliced carrots and onions, a bunch 
of parsley, and white broth enough to cover ; set to boil, and cook 
slowly for an hour ; drain, and press slightly between two tin sheets 
with a weight on top ; strain, and free the gravy of its fat, thicken with 
an ounce of flour browned in butter ; add two ladlefuls of tomato sauce 
and two glasses of sherry wine, a little salt and pepper ; boil half an 
hour ; skim and press through a napkin ; pare the chops, place them in 
a sautoir to heat, with part of the sauce ; dish up in a circle ; alternate 
with heart-shaped slices of bread fried in butter ; put a garnishing of 
mushrooms and sliced sweet-bread in the centre ; pour the sauce over 
all, add small white-paper ruffles to the bones, and serve. 

Boiled Asparagus, White Sauce. — Remove the loose leaves, 
scrape the stalks, and wash the asparagus ; tie in bunches, keeping all 
the heads one way, and cut off the ends of the stalks ; put in hot slightly 
salted water, boil about twenty minutes, and drain carefully ; range on a 
folded napkin, and serve with white sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Rump-Steaks, Horseradish Butter. — Procure two medium- 
sized steaks cut right across the flat bone ; flatten pretty hard, pare a 
little, season with salt and pepper, baste with oil, and broil rather rare ; 
put on a dish, baste over with horseradish butter, and serve. 

Horseradish Butter. — Scrape off the outside, and grate four 
ounces of horseradish ; knead with half a pound of butter and lemon- 
juice, and rub the whole through a fine sieve ; keep on ice till wanted. 

Lettuce Salad. — [No. 98.] 

Apple Marmalade au Caramel. — Pare, remove the cores, and 
cut in slices enough cooking apples ; put them in a buttered saucepan 
with a glass of water and some cinnamon, and cook slowly ; press 
through a colander ; return the residue to the saucepan, sugar to taste, 
stir steadily, and reduce on the fire for about ten minutes ; pour in a 
compot-dish, smooth the surface, besprinkle with powdered sugar, glaze 
to a light caramel color with a red-hot glazing-iron, and serve either hot 
or cold. 



i64 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 97. 

Saturday, April 7. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Green pea, with rice. 

Bouchees of prawns ; 
Baked potatoes. 

Beef-tongue au gratin ; 
Asparagus tops sautes in butter. 

Shoulders of lamb a la Parisienne ; 
Cauliflower salad. 



Apple fritters a la Nemours. 

Green Pea, with Rice. — Boil three pints of large, fresh green 
peas in two quarts of slightly salted water with a slit carrot, an onion, 
and a little butter ; this done, drain, save the liquid ; remove the onion 
and carrrot ; pound the peas to pulp, dilute with the liquid and enough 
good white broth; rub through a fine sieve, return to the stewpan, stir, and 
allow to boil for five minutes ; skim off the froth ; add a little sugar, a 
pint of cooked rice, and two ounces of butter in small bits ; mix well, 
boil no longer, and serve. 

Bouchees of Prawns. — Prepare about a dozen small bouchees as 
directed [No. 88], and keep warm ; make a half pint of cream sauce, 
slightly tinted with red butter [No. 283] ; shell the tails from two quarts 
of savannah prawns ; cut them in pieces, add to the sauce, with a little 
red and white pepper, chopped parsley, and the juice of half a lemon ; 
mix well ; fill the bouchees, cover, dish up on a folded napkin, and serve. 

Baked Potatoes. — [No. 9.] 

Beef-Tongue au Gratin. — Soak a fresh beef-tongue in tepid 
water ; wash well, parboil and scrape the white horny skin off ; pare, 
and then cook in a stewpan with light broth enough to cover, some 
aromatics, and a garnishing of vegetables ; drain, cool partially, and cut 
the tongue crosswise in about twelve slices ; make some stuffing with 
four ounces of soaked and well-pressed white of bread, chopped shallots, 
parsley, and mushrooms, salt, pepper, two ounces of mellow butter, and 
three egg-yolks ; mix thoroughly, spread most of this dressing on a 
buttered baking-dish ; range the tongue over this ; add the rest of the 
dressing, smooth nicely, mask with an Italian sauce, besprinkle with 
bread-crumbs, put small bits of butter on top, and bake of a nice color 
for about twenty minutes in a moderate oven ; press the juice of a lemon 
over, and serve in the baking-dish. 

Asparagus Tops Saut6s in Butter.— Break off all the tender 
parts from enough small green asparagus ; cut in short pieces, wash 
well, and cook rather firm in salted boiling water ; cool and drain 



COOKERY BOOK. 165 

thoroughly in a colander ; a few moments before serving melt four 
ounces of butter in a sautoir, add the asparagus, a little salt, pepper, 
nutmeg, and sugar ; set on a brisk fire, heat well by stirring the 
sautoir ; turn in a heap into a deep vegetable-dish, and serve. 

Shoulders of Lamb a la Parisienne. — Procure two pretty large 
and fat shoulders of lamb (or what is better, take the fore-quarters, 
broil the breasts for breakfast and keep the chops for the next day) ; 
shorten the shin bone, and remove the shoulder-blade ; season with 
salt and pepper, truss, and roast about fifty minutes ; put some 
parisienne sauce [No. 330] on a dish ; untruss and place the shoulder^ 
over the sauce ; surround with small round potatoes fried in butter, and 
serve. 

Cauliflower Salad. — Pare off the green leaves, trim nicely, wash 
well and cook some cauliflowers in salted water and a little butter 
(although we do not use the liquid, we recommend a little butter in 
boiling most fresh vegetables ; it whitens the water and makes them 
tender) ; let cool and drain on a cloth ; divide into flowerets, range 
neatly in a salad-bowl with some chopped parsley, and serve with a 
caster of salad ingredients. 

Apple Fritters a la Nemours. — Peel and remove the cores of 
eight large cooking apples ; cut in halves, pare, and cook in syrup ; 
drain on a sieve, immerse in a light flour batter, sweetened, and 
flavored with orange-flower water ; fry crisp and of a nice color in 
plenty of very hot fat ; drain on a cloth, range on a baking-sheet, 
besprinkle with powdered sugar, and glaze slightly brown in a very 
hot oven for about a minute ; dish up on a folded napkin, and serve. 



No. 98. 

Sunday, April 8. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup a la Solferino. 

Brook-trout, sauce Hollandaise ; 
Potatoes a 1' Anglaise. 

Lamb chops a la jardiniere ; 
Asparagus on toast. 

Roast plover with cress ; 
Lettuce salad. 



Glace pralinee a 1' orange. 

Soup a la Solferino. — Cook separately some green peas and 
new potatoes ; cut in small squares ; put these in a stewpan with two 
handfuls of string-beans cut short, some sliced chervil and celery- 



i66 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

leaves, and three quarts of beef-broth ; boil ten minutes ; put four 
ounces of short pieces of grisini bread in a soup-tureen ; pour the soup 
over, and serve. 

Brook-Trout, Sauce Hollandaise. — Procure four good-sized 
brook-trout ; trim and clean nicely, secure the head to the body with 
strings ; range the fish in a sautoir with salt, pepper-corns, sliced car- 
rots, and onions, a bunch of parsley, a glass of white-wine vinegar, and 
cold water enough to cover the fish ; cover the sautoir, set to boil, re- 
move to the side, and let simmer ten minutes ; lift up carefully with a 
large flat skimmer ; dish up on a folded napkin ; surround with parsley, 
and serve with a sauce-bowl of hollandaise sauce. 

Hollandaise Sauce. — Have a half-pound of the best fresh table 
butter ; put in a saucepan three tablespoonfuls of white-wine vinegar 
with a little salt and a teaspoonful of mignonnette or white pepper; boil 
and reduce one half ; remove to the side of the fire, add a little cold 
water and four egg-yolks ; mix well, add the butter gradually, and stir 
steadily with a wooden spoon on a slow fire until all the butter is incor- 
porated with the eggs ; take care to put in a little cold water when the 
sauce becomes too thick, to prevent curdling ; press through a napkin. 

This sauce ought to be pretty hot. It should, however, at no time, 
approach the boiling-point, as the eggs would cook, the sauce curdle, 
and be unfit to serve. 

Potatoes a 1' Anglaise. — [No. 293.] 

Lamb Chops a la Jardiniere. — Pare and broil lamb chops as 
directed [No. 91] ; range in a circle, alternate with heart-shaped croti- 
tons, pour a garnishing a la jardiniere in the centre ; put small paper 
ruffles on the bones, and serve. 

Asparagus on Toast. — Scrape some asparagus, wash, tie in small 
bunches, pare off the stalks, and cook as directed [No. 96]; serve them 
on toasted slices of bread dipped in the asparagus water, along with 
a sauce-bowl of well-buttered white sauce. 

Roast Plover with Cress. — Pick, void and dress eight fat, 
fresh plover ; cover the breast with bardes of fat pork, and roast 
briskly (about fifteen minutes) ; dish up on dry toast ; surround with 
water-cress and quartered lemons ; pour a little rich gravy made with 
the drippings over the birds, and serve. 

Lettuce Salad. — Remove the green, wash and drain well some 
lettuce ; put it in a salad bowl ; season at the last moment with salt, 
pepper, oil and vinegar, and mix well. 

Glace Pralinee a 1' Orang-e.— Chop fine two ounces of dry 
blanched almonds ; put in a small copper basin two ounces of powdered 



COOKERY BOOK. i67 

sugar ; melt it on a slow fire as for nougat, add the almonds, stir with a 
wooden spoon until slightly browned, turn upon a tin sheet, spread, and 
let cool ; put in a saucepan, six egg-yolks, four ounces of sugar, and 
the alnionds pounded fine ; mix well, dilute with a pint and a half of 
boiled cream, stir on the fire until the cream thickens, press through a 
sieve, and stir occasionally while cooling ; mix a pint of strained orange- 
juice with a pint of syrup at 34 degrees ; this done freeze the cream 
and orange preparation in separate freezers ; imbed a pyramid-mould 
of adequate size in salted ice ; fill this perpendicularly half by half with 
the different preparations ; cover hermetically, add more salted ice, and 
let stay about two hours ; when ready to serve, immerse in tepid water, 
invert on a folded napkin, remove the mould, and serve. 



No. 99. 

Monday, April 9. — Bill of fare for eight persons: 
Soup : Puree of sorrel. 

Baked shad with fine herbs ; 
Fried potatoes a la Julienne. 

Noix of veal a la gendarme ; 
Croquettes of eggs. 

Fillets mignons a la Duxelles ; 
Salade a la Russe. 

Compote of pears a la St. Germain. 

Soup: Puree of Sorrel. — Pick and wash enough sorrel to make 
a quart of puree ; put it in a saucepan with two ounces of butter ; stir, 
boil ten minutes, and press through a colander ; melt in a saucepan two 
ounces of butter, with the same quantity of flour, fry a little, dilute with 
two quarts of boiled milk, salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; stir and boil ten 
minutes ; add the puree ; heat well, press forcibly through a fine sieve, 
return to the stewpan, stir, and heat again without boiling ; finish with 
four egg-yolks diluted with a cup of cream and three ounces of butter 
in small bits ; mix well, and serve with small squares of bread fried in 
butter. 

Baked Shad with Fine Herbs. — Procure a large shad (roe shad 
are the best) ; scale, draw by the gills, cleanse and wash well ; bestrew 
a buttered baking-dish with chopped onion and parsley ; make a deep 
lengthwise incision from head to tail on each side of the shad ; place it 
in the dish, strew more onion and parsley over, with salt and pepper, 
and small bits of butter ; add two glasses of white wine and a half-pint 
of white broth or water ; set to boil, cover with a buttered paper, and 



i68 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

cook in a moderately heated oven for half an hour ; drain and thicken 
the liquid, in a small saucepan, with a tablespoonful of flour kneaded in 
butter ; boil, and pour it over the fish ; besprinkle with bread-crumbs, 
put small bits of butter on top, and bake of a nice color for about 
fifteen minutes ; press the juice of a lemon over, and serve in the 
baking-dish. 

Fried Potatoes a la Julienne. — Peel and cut some raw potatoes 
in long, small square shreds ; wash, and dry in a cloth ; fry crisp and 
well in plenty of clear, hot fat ; drain, salt slightly, and serve on a 
folded napkin. 

Noix of Veal a la Gendarme. — Choose a noix of fat and white 
veal ; with a larding-needle thrust inside long squares of fat pork and 
ham ; put the veal into a hollow earthen vessel with sliced onion, 
sweet oil, thyme, bay-leaves, parsley, salt, and mignonette pepper, and 
let it marinate for six hours ; place the veal on the spit or on a long 
skewer (if to roast in the oven) ; enfold in treble-oiled paper, with the 
vegetables, etc., and roast before the fire or in the oven for about an 
hour and a half, according to size ; remove the paper ; drop the season- 
ing in the dripping-pan, glaze the veal, and put it on a dish ; add a little 
broth and red pepper to the drippings ; strain and remove the grease, 
and reduce with a pint of tomato sauce ; dish up the veal, pour some 
of the sauce around, and serve the rest in a bowl. 

Croquettes of Eggs. — Boil hard and shell twelve eggs ; crumble 
the yolks, and cut the whites in very small squares ; make a pint of 
thick and well-seasoned cream sauce ; add chopped parsley, chives, and 
the eggs ; mix with a wooden spoon, and pour into a dish to cool ; turn 
on a table strewn with pulverized crackers ; divide in pieces the size 
and shape of an egg ; dip in beaten eggs, roll in bread-crumbs, and fry 
briskly ; drain, and serve on a folded napkin. 

Fillets Mignons a la Duxelles. — Cut two pounds of pared fillet 
of beef in eight thin steaks ; flatten, round, season with salt and pepper, 
mask on both sides with a well-reduced duxelles sauce ; cool on a dish- 
pan ; dip in beaten eggs, roll in fresh crumbs, and fry slightly brown in 
clarified butter ; dish up in a circle ; pour a shallot sauce in the centre, 
and serve. 

Salade a la Russe. — [No. 268.] 

Compote of Pears a la St. Germain. — Drain some whole pre- 
served pears on a sieve ; reduce the syrup with a wineglassful of noyau 
liqueur ; range the pears in a compot-dish ; pour the cooled and strained 
syrup over, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 169 



No. 100. 

Tuesday, April 10. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Green pea a la Marly. 

Boiled salmon, sauce diplomate ; 
Potatoes a la bourgeoise. 

Cutlets of pork, sauce poivrade; 
Chartreuse of vegetables. 

Roast ribs of beef with horseradish ; 
Beet and escarole salad. 



Semoule cake. 

Green- Pea a la Marly. — Boil a pint and a half of small green 
peas in a quart of slightly salted water with a little butter ; this done, 
drain the peas and put them with three quarts of chicken-broth, some 
chervil, and lettuce-leaves cut in fine shreds ; boil five minutes longer ; 
pour into a soup-tureen over two french rolls finely sliced and dried in 
the oven ; cover, and serve immediately. 

Boiled Salmon, Diplomat Sauce. — Take a five-pound piece 
of salmon (what is left may be advantageously used for croquettes, etc., 
the next day) ; tie with strings ; set to boil in salted and acidulated 
water, with a sliced carrot, an onion with three cloves in it, pepper- 
corns, and a bunch of parsley ; cover with a sheet of paper ; when the 
water boils remove the pot to the side and let simmer forty minutes ; 
lift the fish with a large skimmer, and drain ; slide on a folded napkin; 
surround with parsley, and serve with a sauce-bowl of diplomat sauce 
[No. 13]. 

Potatoes a la Bourgeoise.— [No. 332.] 

Cutlets of Pork, Sauce Poivrade. — Have eight pork cutlets 
taken from the loin ; cut off the spine, flatten and pare nicely ; season 
with salt and pepper, baste with melted lard, sprinkle with bread- 
crumbs, and broil slowly and thoroughly over a charcoal fire ; dish up 
in a circle ; pour a poivrade sauce in the centre ; range sliced gherkins 
on the edge of the dish, and serve. 

Chartreuse of Vegetables. — Cook two savoy cabbages as di- 
rected [No. 291], omitting the partridges ; with a third of an inch tin 
tube cut inch-and-a-half-long pieces of carrots and turnips ; cook sep- 
arately, and underdone, in salted water with a little sugar and butter ; 
cook also some green peas, asparagus tops, and string-beans, and drain 
the whole separately on a cloth ; butter a charlotte-mould of adequate 
size, putting a round of buttered paper on the bottom ; line symmetri- 
cally the bottom and sides with the prepared vegetables ; drain the cab- 
bage thoroughly, season to taste, and fill the mould ; heat in boiling 



170 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

water for half an hour ; invert on a dish, let stand awhile, drain off the 
liquid that comes out ; lift up the mould, pour two ladlefuls of 
espagnole sauce round the dish, and serve. 

Roast Ribs of Beef with Horseradish. — Procure two ribs 
of tender and not too fresh beef ; saw off the spine ; truss firmly, and 
roast about an hour and a quarter ; pare and dish up ; pour some rich 
gravy round the meat, and serve with fresh-grated horseradish on a 
plate. 

Beet and Escarole Salad. — The market is now pretty well sup- 
plied with Bermuda beets and California escaroles. Boil some beets in 
their skin, cool, pare, and slice ; remove the green, wipe and slit the 
white leaves of two heads of escarole ; put in a heap in a salad-bowl, 
surround with the beets, add chopped chervil and tarragon, and season 
at the last moment with salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar. 

Semoule Cake. — Put in a saucepan a pound and a half of semoule, 
with three pints of boiled milk, six ounces of sugar, three ounces of but- 
ter, and the rind of a lemon tied up ; set to boil, stir, then cover, and 
let simmer forty minutes ; take off the fare, remove the lemon, add three 
well-beaten eggs, four egg-yolks, and two more ounces of butter, and 
mix well ; butter a plain charlotte-mould ; besprinkle with fresh bread- 
crumbs, pour in the semoule, but do not fill the mould entirely, as it 
would run over while cooking ; add more bread-crumbs and small bits 
of butter on top ; place on a baking-sheet, and cook in a pretty hot oven 
for about thirty minutes ; pass a knife between the cake and the sides ; 
invert on a dish, take off the mould, and serve with a sauce-bowl of 
lemon-sauce [No. 264]. 



No. 101. 

Wednesday, April 11. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Rice a la paysanne. 

Croquettes of salmon ; 
Timbale of potatoes. 

Leg of lamb, mint sauce ; 
Asparagus, sauce HoUandaise. 

Crayfish a la Bordelaise ; 
Salad a la Grinod. 



Croiites a la Normande. 

Rice i, la Paysanne. — Prepare three quarts of vegetable soup 
as directed [No. 286], and serve with a pint of rice, instead of bread 
cooked in broth. 



COOKERY BOOK. 171 

Croquettes of Salmon. — Make a pint of bechamel with four 
egg-yolks in it, salt, pepper, nutmeg, chopped parsley, and chives ; re- 
move the skin and bone and crumble fine some cold boiled salmon ; 
add the fish to the sauce ; mix well with a wooden spoon, turn out and 
spread about an inch thick on a buttered tin dish, and let cool ; invert 
on a table strewn with pulverized crackers, divide in oblong pieces, two 
inches wide by four inches long ; dip in beaten eggs, roll in fresh bread- 
crumbs, smooth slightly, and fry of a nice color (never salt fried prepa- 
rations, the seasoning inside ought to be sufficient) ; range in a circle 
on a folded napkin ; fill the centre with fried parsley, surround with 
quartered lemons, and serve. 

Timbale of Potatoes. — [No. 325.] 

Roast Leg* of Lamb, Mint Sauce. — Procure a large leg of 
spring lamb ; remove the hip bone, flatten slightly, inwrap in the leaf- 
fat, tie with strings, and roast an hour, remove the strings, dish up, and 
put a white-paper ruffie on the knuckle-bone ; add a little broth to the 
drippings, skim off the fat, strain over the meat, and serve with mint 
sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Boiled Asparagus, Hollandaise Sauce. — Scrape, wash, tie in 
bunches, and cook some asparagus ; serve on a folded napkin with 
hollandaise sauce [No. 98] in a sauce-bowl. 

Crayfish a la Bordelaise. — Procure three dozen fine crayfish ; 
wash them well and take the intestines out by pinching the extreme end 
of the centre fin, and then with a sudden jerk the gall- cyst may be with- 
drawn ; put the fish in a saucepan with salt, mignonette pepper, 
and a well garnished bunch of parsley ; wet with a pint of white 
wine and a pint of water ; cover, set to boil, and cook ten min- 
utes, taking care to toss the fish in the saucepan once or twice, 
to cook them equally ; cut in very fine squares some carrots and 
onions, put in a saucepan with three ounces of butter, and fry 
long enough to evaporate the moisture ; add two ladlefuls of espagn- 
ole sauce, some red pepper, and a pint of strained liquid from the 
crayfish ; boil and reduce a little ; drain the crayfish, put them in the 
sauce, boil five minutes longer, and add some chopped parsley ; pour 
the whole in a deep dish, and serve. 

Salad a la Grinod. — Pare and parboil separately two heads of 
lettuce, a piece of cabbage, some string-beans, and beets ; toast some 
small slices of bread a third of an inch thick ; dip in the best sweet oil 
and put in a salad-bowl ; cut and range the lettuce, cabbage, beets, and 
beans in separate groups over the bread, alternate with separately- 
chopped white and yolk of eggs, pepper-grass, and chervil, so as to 



172 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

make a pleasant design ; send to table ; season at the last moment 
with salt, pepper, oil, and chilli vinegar ; mix well, 

Croutes a la Normande. — Cut and trim nicely some eight slices 
of stale bread two inches wide by four long and two thirds of an inch 
thick ; fry in clarified butter and drain on a cloth ; remove the cores, 
quarter and pare eight large cooking apples, put them in a sautoir, with 
powdered sugar, the juice of a lemon, and small bits of butter ; cook in 
the oven ; then with the aid of a fork drain them on a plate ; put more 
sugar, a glass of sherry wine, a little water, and three tablespoonfuls of 
apricot or peach marmalade into the sautoir, stir and boil to the con- 
sistency of a thick syrup ; pour some in a dish ; put part of the apples 
on the slices of bread, dish up in a circle over the syrup, range the rest 
of the apples on top, pour more syrup over all, and serve hot. 



No. 102. 

Thursday, April 12. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Puree of asparagus. 

Roast shad, sauce ravigote ; 
Cakes of potatoes. 

Breast of lamb with asparagus ; 
Eggs a la bechamel. 

Tournedos of beef, sauce poivrade ; 
White-bean salad. 

Gateau feuillete with preserves. 

Puree of Asparagus. — Take all the tender parts of three bunches 
of small green asparagus, by breaking the stalks as near the white 
as possible ; cut in pieces (part of the tops may be saved to garnish an 
entree), wash thoroughly, boil in salted water, and drain without cooling ; 
put into a stewpan with three ounces of melted butter ; stir on a brisk 
fire for five minutes ; sprinkle four ounces of flour over, mix well, dilute 
gradually with two quarts of white broth and a quart of boiled 
milk ; add salt, white pepper, nutmeg, and a teaspoonful of sugar ; stir 
and boil ten minutes : press forcibly through a very fine sieve ; return 
to the stewpan, stir and boil again ; add more milk, if too thick ; finish 
with two ounces of butter, and serve with small squares of bread fried 
in butter ; if not green enough add some green butter [No. 107]. This 
is a most healthy, good, and cheap soup, and cannot be too much 
recommended. 

Roast Shad, Sauce Ravigote. — Select a large roe shad, scale, 
draw by the gills, cleanse nicely, and wipe dry ; make small crosswise in- 



COOKERY BOOK. 



U3 



cisions on both sides, put the fish on a dish with salt, pepper, oil, 
lemon-juice, chopped parsley, chives, and thyme, to marinate for an 
hour, taking care to turn and press the fish occasionally so as to 
impregnate it thoroughly with the seasoning ; put on the spit or on a 
large skewer, inwrap in double oiled paper, making it secure by press- 
ing down a shorter skewer along each side, and tying at the ends ; 
then roast before the fire or in a moderate oven for forty minutes ; 
remove the paper, glaze of a nice color, put on a dish, pour a ravigote 
sauce [No. 256] round, and serve. 

Cakes of Potatoes. — [No. 302.] 

Breast of Lamb with Asparagus. — Cut short, wash well, and 
boil some small green asparagus tops in salted water ; cool and drain 
in a colander ; make a blanquette of lamb as directed [No. 106], omit- 
ting the peas ; warm the asparagus in a little melted butter, add it to 
the blanquette at the last moment, mix carefully, and serve. 

Eggs a la Bechamel. — Boil hard eight or more eggs, shell, and 
cut in halves ; pour a little well-seasoned bechamel sauce in a hollow 
dish, range the eggs, mask with more sauce, and serve. 

Tournedos of Beef, Sauce Poivrade. — Cut and flatten slightly 
eight or more small tenderloin steaks, season highly, and fry rare in 
a sautoir with clarified butter or sweet oil ; drain, dish in a row, al- 
ternate with a fried fillet-shaped slice of bread ; drain the fat from the 
sautoir, put in about a pint of poivrade sauce [No. 314], boil two 
minutes, pour the sauce round the meat, and serve. 

White-Bean Salad. — Soak overnight and cook some dry beans 
in rain-water [No. 6] ; let cool, drain, put in a salad-bowl with salt, 
pepper, oil, vinegar, and finely cut chives, chervil, and parsley ; mix 
well, and serve. 

Gateau Feuillete with Preserves. — Put a thin layer of 
feuilletage paste on a round baking-sheet ; pinch a small ledge half 
an inch high and an inch and a half inside of the edge ; pour some 
currant jelly or some other preserves or marmalade inside ; wet the 
edge, put another layer of paste over, press gently to make the edges 
adhere, trim round, egg the surface, trace a few fanciful lines over the 
paste, and bake in a hot oven for half an hour ; besprinkle with 
powdered sugar, glaze of a nice color, and serve cold. 



1 74 FRA NCO-A M ERIC A N 

No. 103. 

Friday, April 13. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Vermicelli au maigre. 

Boiled pike, caper sauce ; 
Boiled Bermuda potatoes. 

Stewed veal with green peas ; 
Fresh mushrooms a I' Italienne. 



Broiled pigeons on toast ; 
Escarole salad. 

Cups of almond custard. 

Vermicelli au Maigre. — Boil half a pound of vermicelli with 

three quarts of slightly salted water, four ounces of butter, and a little 
white pepper, for twenty minutes ; finish with a liaison of eight egg- 
yolks, diluted with a cup of cream and four ounces of butter in small 
bits ; mingle well without boiling, pour into a soup-tureen, and serve. 

Boiled Pike, Caper Sauce. — Procure a four-pound pike ; scale, 
draw by the gills, wash well, and tie the head to the body ; put in a 
narrow fish-boiler with salted water, vinegar, a bunch of parsley, and a 
sliced onion ; cover with a sheet of paper, boil slowly, and let simmer 
half an hour ; drain and slide upon a folded napkin ; surround with 
parsley, and serve with a sauce-bowl of caper sauce. 

Caper Sauce. — Make a well-buttered white sauce [No. 10] ; stir 
into it a tablespoonful of drained capers, and serve in a sauce-bowl. 

Boiled Bermuda Potatoes. — Take some even-sized bermuda 
potatoes, peel a ring around, wash, and put in a saucepan with water 
enough to cover and a little salt ; cover, and boil ; as soon as they are 
done, drain the water off, cover with a cloth, let rest five minutes, and 
serve in the folds of a large napkin. 

Stewed Veal with Green Peas. — Get about four pounds of 
breast of white and fat veal ; cut in pieces, put into a stewpan with 
three ounces of melted butter, and fry slightly brown ; drain most of 
the butter off, sprinkle an ounce and a half of sifted flour over, mix 
well, fry a little longer, dilute with a quart of water, stir, and set to 
boil ; then, with the aid of a skimmer and a fork, transfer the pieces of, 
meat into another stewpan, and strain the sauce over ; add a bunch of I 
parsley with three cloves stuck in it, salt, white pepper, nutmeg, and a 
carrot cut in small pieces and trimmed ; cover and boil half an hour ; 1 
then add a dozen small onions slightly sugared and browned in butter, 
and a pint of green peas ; boil half an hour longer, remove the parsley 
and the fat, dish up in pyramid form, pour the sauce and the garnishing 
over, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 175 

' Fresh Mushrooms ^ 1' Italienne. — The market is by this time 
supplied with cultivated mushrooms ; proceed as directed [No. 275]. 

Broiled Pigeons on Toast.— Procure half a dozen full-grown 
stall-fed squab (pigeons) ; singe, draw, slit down the back, crack the 
main bones, flatten a little ; season with salt and pepper, baste with 
melted butter, and broil slowly ; dish up on dry toast, pour a melted 
maitre d' hotel sauce over, garnish with water-cress, and serve. 

Escarole Salad (it is better not to wash this salad). — Remove the 
green leaves and the cores, wipe and slit the white leaves, and season as 
directed [No. 100], omitting the beets. 

Cups of Almond Custard. — Scald, blanch, and pound fine three 
ounces of almonds and three bitter almonds ; dilute with eight custard- 
cups full of boiling cream ; put in a saucepan eight egg-yolks, three 
ounces of sugar, and a teaspoonful of orange-flower water ; mix well 
with the cream, and press through a napkin ; fill eight or more custard- 
cups, put them in a sautoir with boiling water to half their height ; take 
off the froth from the surface with the edge of a small piece of paper, 
cover, and cook slowly for twenty minutes ; cool in the sautoir ; drain, 
and wipe the cups clean, and serve with a plate of roasted (pralined) 
almonds, if desired. 



No. 104. 

Saturday, April 14. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Puree of leeks. 

Salted cod a la maitre d' hotel ; 
Potatoes a la Brabanfonne. 

Epigrammes of lamb a la printaniere ; 
Timbale of macaroni a la Milanaise. 



Escarole salad a la Gasconne. 
Pears a la marquise. 

Puree of Leeks. — Pare off the roots and green, cut in shreds, and 
wash well two bunches of leeks ; parboil, drain, put in a stewpan with 
four ounces of melted butter ; stir and fry long enough to evaporate the 
moisture, but not to brown ; sprinkle four ounces of sifted flour over, 
fry a minute longer ; dilute with three pints of boiled milk and three 
pints of white broth ; add salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; stir again, and boil 
twenty minutes ; press through a fine sieve, return to the stewpan, and 
heat to boiling ; finish with a gill of raw cream, two ounces of butter, 
and a little sugar ; mix well, and serve with small lozenges or squares 
of bread fried in butter. 



1/6 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Salted Cod i. la Maitre d' Hotel. — Remove the skin and cut 
up four pounds of dried cod ; soak at least twenty-four hours in cold 
water, changing this four or five times ; put in cold and cook in hot 
but not boiling water for twenty minutes ; drain, remove all the bones, 
and part in medium-sized pieces ; put in a saucepan six ounces of fresh 
butter, pepper, chopped chives and parsley, a teaspoonful of flour, and 
a little of the water in which the fish has been cooked ; stir on the fire 
until near boiling ; add the cod, heat and mix well : press in the juice 
of a lemon, pour in a dish, and serve. 

Potatoes a la Brabangonne. — [No. 3] 

Epigrammes of Lamb ^ la Printaniere. — Pare nicely eight 
lamb chops, season with salt and pepper, dip in melted butter, roll in 
fresh bread-crumbs, and, at the last moment, broil of a nice color ; boil 
a breast of lamb in the stock-pot, remove the bones, press and cool 
between two tin sheets with a weight on top, divide in eight pieces, 
pare, immerse in nearly cold bechamel sauce, roll in pulverized crackers, 
dip in beaten eggs, roll again in fresh white-bread crumbs, smooth nice- 
ly, and fry of a slightly brown color ; cook separately green peas, string- 
beans, and asparagus tops ; drain, and put them all together in a sauce- 
pan with salt, pepper, nutmeg, a little sugar, two ounces of butter, two 
ladlefuls of bechamel sauce, and a little cream ; heat to boiling and mix 
well ; dish up the chops in a circle, alternating with the breast-pieces ; 
pour the garnishing of vegetables in the centre, ornament the rib-bones 
with small paper ruffles ; pour a little reduced gravy round the dish, 
and serve. 

Timbale of Macaroni ^ la Milanaise. — Boil twelve ounces of 
macaroni in salted water with a little butter for twenty minutes ; drain, 
put in a saucepan with salt, pepper, nutmeg, a pint of bechamel sauce, 
four ounces of butter, four ounces of grated parmesan cheese, some 
mushrooms, truffles, and red beef-tongue cut in short and fine shreds ; 
mix well and carefully without breaking the macaroni ; pour in a 
timbale-mould lined with short paste ; cook and serve as directed for 
timbale [No. 51]. 

Escarole Salad a la Gasconne. — Dress and serve the salad as 
directed [No. 103], with the addition of two thin crusts of bread rubbed 
with garlic. 

Pears a la Marquise. — Procure a quart of white pears preserved 
whole ; open and heat in the can ; drain on a sieve, and reduce the 
syrup with two glasses of maraschino liqueur ; cook a pint of rice with 
a quart of milk, two ounces of sugar, the rind of a lemon chopped fine, 
and a little butter ; this done, add four egg-yolks, mix well with the 



COOKERY BOOK. lyj 

rice, etc., and fill a well-buttered flat border-mould ; press down gently, 
turn out on a round dish ; range the pears on the border, and fill the 
centre with sweetened whipt cream [No. 77] ; pour the reduced syrup 
around the base, and serve. 



No. 105. 

Sunday, April 15. — Bill of fare for eight persons. 

Soup : Consomme a la Brisse. 

Brook-trout, anchovy sauce ; 
Potatoes a la duchesse. 



Aloyau of beef a la Godard ; 
Mashed spinach with eggs. 

Buisson of prawns ; 
Tomato salad. 

Filbert ice-cream. 

Consomme a la Brisse. — Prepare three quarts of chicken-broth 
as directed [No. 310] ; make small quantities of puree with three 
different sorts of colors of vegetables, such as cauliflowers, green aspar- 
agus, and carrots — about a fourth of a pint of each ; dilute each one 
separately with an egg and two egg-yolks, and press through a fine 
sieve ; butter three timbale-moulds of adequate size, put the different 
preparations in them, and cook in boiling water ; when well set, let 
cool ; turn on a napkin, and cut the whole in half-inch squares ; pour 
the chicken-broth in a soup-tureen, add a pint of boiled rice and the 
different prepared vegetables, and serve. 

Brook-Trout, Anchovy Sauce. — Scale, draw by the gills, and 
cook four large brook-trout as directed [No. 98] ; slide upon a folded 
napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve with anchovy sauce [No. 266] 
in a sauce-bowl. 

Potatoes a la Duchesse. — [No. 258.] 

Aloyau of Beef a la Godard. — Procure a piece of loin of beef 
weighing about ten pounds ; saw off the spine, pare nicely, thrust well- 
seasoned shreds of fat pork inside ; tie the beef firmly, put in a braisiere 
with salt, pepper, a bunch of parsley, sliced carrots and onions, a quart 
of broth, half a pint of sherry-wine, and half a pint of tomato sauce ; 
cover and cook for three hours ; drain the beef ; strain and free the 
gravy of its fat, thicken with an ounce of flour browned in butter ; boil 
half an hour, skim well, and press through a napkin ; prepare a garnish- 
ing of sliced sweet-bread, trufBes, heads of mushrooms, and quartered 
artichoke-bottoms ; pare and dish up the beef, surround with the 



178 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

garnishing, pour part of the sauce over, and serve the rest in a sauce- 
bowl. 

Mashed Spinach with Egg's. — Prepare some spinach as directed 
[No. 6i] ; boil six eggs for five and a half minutes ; immerse in cold 
water, take off the shells, and cut in halves ; pour the spinach in a deep 
dish, smooth the surface, range the eggs, yolk uppermost on top, and 
serve. 

Buisson of Prawns. — Select a quart of large Savannah prawns ; 
soak for two hours in slightly salted ice-water to remove the strong 
tide-water taste and odor with vi^hich they are always impregnated ; 
drain on a cloth ; have a plain round charlotte-mould, range a layer of 
prawns on the bottom, the tails against the sides and the heads toward 
the centre ; then a thin layer of parsley-leaves, another layer of prawns, 
and so on until the whole is used, finishing with parsley ; keep on ice 
till wanted ; then invert on a folded napkin, surround with quartered 
lemons, and serve. 

Tomato Salad. — [No. i86.] 

Filbert Ice-Cream. — Make an infusion with half a vanilla bean 
and a half-pint of milk ; chop and dry four ounces of shelled and 
blanched filberts ; put in a small untinned copper basin four ounces of 
powdered sugar ; melt this on the fire, add the filberts, stir till slightly 
browned, turn upon a slightly oiled tin-sheet, let cool, then pound fine ; 
put in a saucepan ten egg-yolks, six ounces of sugar and the powdered 
filberts ; mix well, dilute with a quart of boiled cream, and the vanilla 
infusion ; stir on the fire with a wooden spoon until the cream thickens ; 
press immediately through a very fine sieve into an earthen vessel, and 
stir occasionally while cooling ; freeze in the ordinary way ; put in an 
ice-cream mould, and cover hermetically ; imbed in a pail of salted 
ice for two hours ; dip in tepid water, turn on a folded napkin, and 
serve. 



No. 106. 

Monday, April i6. — Bill of fare for eight persons 

Soup : Veal, a la Poissy, 

Boiled shad, Hollandaise sauce ; 
Potatoes, English style. 

Blanquette of lamb with green peas ; 
Boiled Bermuda onions. 



Salmi of snipe ; 
Asparagus salad. 

Rice pudding au caramel. 



COOKERY BOOK. 179 

Veal, d la Poissy. — Put in a saucepan four pounds of knuckle of 
veal, with six quarts of water ; salt ; set to boil and scum well ; add 
a sliced carrot, an onion with three cloves in it, and a bunch of parsley ; 
cover, and let simmer three hours ; remove the fat, and strain through a 
wet napkin ; put three quarts of this broth in a saucepan, add half a 
pound of vermicelli, boil twenty minutes ; finish with a handful of 
chopped chervil and four egg-yolks diluted with a gill of cream ; mix 
well, but boil no longer, and serve. 

Boiled Shad, Sauce Hollandaise.— Cleanse, draw by the gills, 
and cook whole a large roe-shad in salted and acidulated water for 
forty minutes ; drain and slide on a folded napkin, surround with 
parsley, and serve with hollandaise sauce [No. 98] in a sauce-bowl. 

Potatoes English Style.— [No. 293.] 

Blanquette of Lamb with Green Peas. — Cut about four 
pounds of breast and shoulder of lamb in pieces ; soak in tepid water 
for an hour ; drain and put in a stewpan with enough fresh water to 
cover, salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; set to boil and scum thoroughly ; 
pour the whole into a colander placed on another stewpan, and save 
the broth ; cool, wash, and drain the lamb ; return to the stewpan with 
three ounces of butter, stir and fry on a brisk fire for five minutes, but 
without browning ; sprinkle an ounce and a half of sifted flour over, 
mingle well, dilute with the strained broth, stir, and boil again ; add a 
bunch of parsley, an onion with two cloves in it, and a pint of fresh- 
shelled green peas ; cover, and cook slowly ; when done, take off the 
fat, remove the parsley and onion, finish with a liasion of three egg- 
yolks, two ounces of butter, and the juice of a lemon ; mix well without 
boiling, dish in pyramid form, pour the sauce over, and serve. 

Boiled Bermuda Onions. — Proceed as directed [No. 319], and 
serve with cream sauce. 

Salmi of Snipe. — Pick, singe, remove the eyes, gizzards, and crops 
of eight or more snipe ; roast rare, cut in halves, save the heads, and 
pare nicely ; put into a sautoir with salt, pepper, and a little reduced 
gravy ; cover and keep warm ; put the parings in a saucepan with a 
pint of espagnole sauce, two glasses of sherry wine, two sliced shallots, 
a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, a clove, and a ladleful of broth ; boil ten 
minutes, skim, and press through a napkin ; dish up the snipe on square 
slices of bread fried in clarified butter ; add a little red pepper, lemon- 
juice, and two spoonfuls of sweet oil to the sauce, pour over the birds, 
insert the heads, and serve. 

Asparagus Salad. — Cook the asparagus in plenty of salted boiling 
water ; when done, transfer immediately into cold water, so as to pre- 



i8o FRANCO-AMERICAN 

serve the natural fulness and color ; when thoroughly cooled, drain on 
a cloth, range on a folded napkin, and serve with a caster of salad 
ingredients. 

Rice Pudding au Caramel. — Wash well, parboil, drain, and then 
cook for about forty minutes, four ounces of rice in a quart of boiled 
milk, with three ounces of sugar, an ounce of butter, and the rind of a 
lemon tied up ; beat well four eggs and six egg-yolks with a little milk, 
and press through a napkin ; remove the lemon, and mix the eggs with 
the rice and milk ; cook in a small basin some sugar to a brown color, 
but not burnt ; pour the sugar into a plain charlotte-mould, and spread 
it all over the inside ; fill the mould with the rice preparation, set in a 
large saucepan with boiling water to half its height, cover, steam slowly, 
cook until well set, and keep warm ; ten minutes before serving, wipe 
the mould, invert on a dish, keep it on till the moment of serving, 
remove the mould, and serve with the brown liquid that came out. 



No. 107. 

Tuesday, April 17. — Bill of fare for eight persons 

Soup : Puree of spinach. 

Fried eels, English style ; 
Potatoes a la Reitz. 



Pork steak, gherkin sauce ; 
Stewed Bermuda beets. 



Broiled spring chickens ; 
Lettuce salad. 



Biscuit de Savoie. 

Puree of Spinach. — Pick and wash spinach enough to make a 
quart of puree ; boil in salted water, drain, cool, press the water out, 
and chop very fine ; put into a stewpan with four ounces of melted 
butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a little sugar ; stir on a brisk fire with 
a wooden spoon until the moisture is mostly evaporated ; sprinkle three 
ounces of flour over, mix well, and dilute with three quarts of boiled 
milk ; stir again, boil a minute, and press twice through a very fine 
sieve ; return to the stewpan, stir, and heat well without boiling, finish 
with four ounces of table butter in small bits and a cup of raw cream ; 
mix well, and serve with small squares of bread fried in butter ; if the 
puree is not green enough, it can be made so by adding some green 
butter made as follows : 

Spinach or Vegetable Green. — Pound some raw spinach-leaves 
to a pulp in a marble mortar, add a half-pint of water ; put the whole 



COOKERY BOOK. 



i8i 



in a strong cloth and press the water out on a dish ; put this extract in 
a small saucepan on a slow fire, and when near boiling it will curdle ; 
then pour the whole on a silk sieve, let the water run out, and press the 
green through the sieve ; mix with fresh mellow butter, and keep on ice 
to use when wanted. 

Fried Eels, English Style. — Take two large eels ; skin, draw, 
pare, and cut in five-inch lengths ; put into a saucepan with salt, pepper- 
corns, a bunch of parsley, a sliced onion, three blades of mace, a glass 
of vinegar, and water enough to cover ; set to boil, and cook slowly for 
ten minutes ; let cool, drain on a cloth, immerse in a flour batter, and 
fry of a nice color in plenty of very hot fat ; drain, salt a little, dish up 
on a folded napkin, surround with fried parsley and quartered lemons, 
and serve with a poor-man's sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Poor-Man's Sauce. — Thicken a pint of broth with a tablespoon- 
ful of flour browned in butter ; boil ten minutes, finish with two table- 
spoonfuls of tomato catsup and one of essence of anchovies ; mix well, 
but boil no longer. 

Potatoes a la Reitz. — [No. 274.] 

Pork Steaks, Gherkin Sauce. — Procure six pork steaks from 
the rump ; flatten slightly, pare, and season with salt and pepper, and 
put on a plate with lemon-juice and sweet oil for one hour ; roll in 
white-bread crumbs, and broil slowly until well done ; range on a dish, 
pour a gherkin sauce round, and serve. 

Gherkin Sauce. — Make a poivrade sauce [No. 314] ; add finely 
sliced pickled gherkins, and boil no longer. 

Stewed Bermuda Beets. — Boil and peel sufficient bermuda 
beets, cut in quarters, and put them in a saucepan with salt, pepper, 
three ounces of butter, a little water, and a few drops of vinegar ; let 
the butter melt, mix, and serve. 

Broiled Spring Chickens.-- -Take two or more spring chickens, 
according to size ; singe, draw, slit down the back, crack the main 
bones, and pare a little ; season with salt and pepper, baste with melted 
butter, and broil slowly over a moderate charcoal fire ; dish up on dry 
toast, spread some melted maitre d' hotel sauce over, garnish with 
water-cress, and serve. 

Lettuce Salad. — [No. 98.] 

Biscuit de Savoie. — Break fourteen eggs ; put the whites in a 
copper basin and the yolks in an earthen vessel, add a pound of pow- 
dered sugar and the rind of a lemon chopped fine to the yolks ; work 
these vigorously with a wooden spoon until they whiten and are very 
smooth ; prepare a pound of dried sifted flour on a plate ; vv'ith an egg- 



i82 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

beater beat the whites to a hard froth ; then mix the whites, the 
yolks, and the flour carefully together with a skimmer ; pour the whole 
into a well-buttered biscuit-mould sugared with fine powdered sugar 
(glaze), but fill the mould only three fourths full, or it will run over 
while cooking ; cook in a very moderate oven for an hour and a half ; 
take off the mould, and serve cold. 



No. 108. 

Wednesday, April i8. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Pigeon, i la Fabert. 

Timbale of fillets of sole ; 
Quenelles of potatoes. 

Sirloin steaks a la maitre d' hotel ; 
Croutes aux champignons. 

Cauliflower and onion salad. 



Blanc manger au cafe. 

Pigeon Soup el la Fabert. — Singe, draw, and cut four pigeons 
in quarters ; pare nicely, and put the parings and all in a saucepan with 
three ounces of butter and two ounces of sliced ham ; fry slightly 
brown, besprinkle with three ounces of flour, fry a minute longer, 
dilute with three quarts of broth and two glasses of sherry wine ; add 
a bunch of parsley, boil and cook slowly, strain through a colander, 
put the pigeons in a soup-tureen and keep warm ; press the liquid 
through a napkin, set on the fire, skim well, add a pint of cooked 
julienne-vegetables (No. 255), boil all together ; season highly, skim 
again, pour over the pigeons, and serve. 

Timbale of Fillets of Sole. — Take eight large fillets of flounder ; 
flatten slightly, season with salt and pepper, insert short squares of 
truffles in four of them and fasten short shreds of anchovies to the 
others ; have a well-buttered round timbale-mould, put a round slice of 
truffle in the centre at the bottom ; then line the mould by placing the 
small ends of the fillets, the ornamented side underneath, against the 
mould, and the other end resting on the upper edge ; fill the spaces with 
a granite-like mass made with chopped lobster coral, parsley, and 
truffle-parings ; this done, spread a three-quarter-inch-thick layer of 
fish force-meat (No. 12) all over the inside of the mould ; then fill the 
hollow with colloped lobster, cooked mussels, and mushrooms mixed 
with very consistent normande sauce ; close at the top with more force- 
meat, cover with thin bardes of fat pork, put the mould in a saucepan 
with boiling water to half its height, boil slowly and cook in a moderate 



COOKERY BOOK, 183 

oven for an hour ; remove the lard, wipe the mould, invert on a dish, 
and let rest ten minutes ; drain off the liquid that may come out, lift 
up the mould, pour some normande sauce round the fish, and serve. 

Quenelles of Potatoes. — [No. 306.] 

Sirloin Steaks a la Maitre d' Hotel. — Procure four large, 
tender sirloin steaks ; flatten, pare, and season with salt and pepper ; 
baste with oil, and broil rare ; dish up with some maitre d' hotel sauce 
(No. 276), and serve. 

Croutes aux Champignons. — Have two pounds of fresh and 
firm mushrooms ; cut and trim the stalks, pare the heads, wash, put in a 
saucepan with a little water, salt, four ounces of butter, and the juice of 
two lemons; cover, toss them once or twice, and cook briskly for five min- 
utes ; take the upper crust of four french rolls, pare off the inside and 
fry the crust in clarified butter ; reduce part of the mushroom gravy 
with a pint and a half of veloute sauce; add four ounces of butter, 
four egg-yolks, pepper, and nutmeg ; mix well and press through a 
napkin ; pour a little of this sauce in a dish, range the crust hollow- 
side uppermost on the sauce ; drain and put the mushrooms in the sauce; 
pour in the crusts, taking care to turn the largest and whitest above, 
and serve immediately. 

Cauliflower and Onion Salad. — Peel, slice fine, and steep two 
bermuda onions in a little salt and vinegar for an hour ; drain, range in 
a salad-bowl with cooked cauliflowers parted in flowerets ; season and 
serve in the ordinary way. 

Blanc Manger au Cafe. — Roast in a perfectly clean, untinned, 
small copper basin six ounces of coffee beans ; turn them into a small 
saucepan with a quart of boiling cream, cover, and set to infuse on the 
side of the fire for an hour ; melt in a saucepan on the fire an ounce 
and a half of clarified gelatine with a pint of water and twelve ounces 
of sugar ; mix this with the cream, strain the whole through a very fine 
sieve, and cool partially; imbed a cylindrical three-pint sweet-meat mould 
in broken ice, fill with the preparation, and cool thoroughly ; at serving- 
time immerse in tepid water and turn on a folded napkin. 



1 84 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 109. 

Thursday, April 19. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Cream of sorrel, with rice. 

Shad roes a la maitre d' hotel ; 
Bermuda potatoes, Chateaubriand. 

Hind-quarter of lamb, Milanaise ; 
Asparagus, Hollandaise sauce. 

Broiled chickens, deviled sauce ; 
Lettuce and tomato salad. 



Miroton of apples. 

Cream of Sorrel, with Rice. — Prepare three quarts of purde of 
sorrel soup as directed [No. 99] ; add a pint of rice thoroughly cooked 
in veal- or chicken-broth, and serve. 

Shad Roes ^ la Maitre d' Hotel. — Procure the hard roes of 
four shad ; pare, season with salt, pepper, and lemon-juice ; baste with 
oil, and broil slowly and well over a charcoal fire ; range on a dish with 
a cold maitre d' hotel sauce [No. 276] and a tablespoonful of chopped 
onion ; surround with two quartered lemons, and serve. 

Bermuda Potatoes, Chateaubriand. — Peel some bermuda 
potatoes, cut in parts, and pare the size and shape of a pigeon-egg ; 
parboil in salted water, drain on a cloth, then fry slightly brown in a 
sautoir with clarified butter ; when done drain the butter off, then add 
an ounce of fresh butter in small bits, salt, and chopped parsley ; mix 
well, and serve. 

Hind-Quarter of Lamb 'k la Milanaise. — Choose a fat quarter 
of lamb ; remove the transparent skin that covers the fillet, inwrap in 
the leaf-fat, truss nicely, put on the spit, and roast an hour ; untie, and 
dish up the lamb ; surround with a garnishing of macaroni a la milan- 
aise [No. 277] ; pour a reduced gravy over, ornament the knuckle-bone 
with a nicely made white-paper ruffle, and serve. 

Asparagus, Hollandaise Sauce. — [No. loi.] 

Broiled Chickens, Deviled Sauce. — Have two or more spring 
chickens ; singe, draw, pare the wings, cut off the stumps, split down 
the back, crack the main bones, thrust the legs inside, and flatten 
slightly ; season with salt, white and red pepper, baste with melted but- 
ter, sprinkle a little fresh bread-crumbs over, then boil slowly and well ; 
dish up on slightly-buttered toast, and serve with a deviled sauce, either 
poured round the dish or in a sauce-bowl. 

Deviled Sauce. — Melt in a saucepan an ounce of butter with a 
tablespoonful of chopped shallots ; fry slightly brown, add two ladlefuls 
of espagnole sauce, one of broth, two tablespoonfuls of prepared mus- 



COOKERY BOOK. 185 

tard, some Worcestershire sauce and red pepper to taste ; stir, and boil 
five minutes ; press through a napkin, and finish with a tablespoonful of 
chopped parsley. 

Lettuce and Tomato Salad. — Pick and wash some lettuce ; 
drain thoroughly by shaking in a wire or willow basket, and put in a 
salad-bowl; with a very sharp knife peel some fleshy, ripe tomatoes ; cut 
in slices, range in a circle over the lettuce ; add chopped parsley, and 
serve with mayonnaise sauce or with a caster of salad ingredients. 

Miroton of Apples. — Peel and core eight large cooking apples ; 
trim both ends and slice them as for fritters ; put in an earthen vessel 
with two wineglassfuls of brandy, the juice of a lemon, powdered sugar 
and cinnamon, and let steep for two hours ; range on a plated or china 
entremet baking-dish in two or three circles arranged upon each 
other ; fill the spaces with apple and peach marmalade mixed together ; 
chop and strew the apple trimmings over and around, give the mass the 
form of a dome, bake half an hour in a moderately heated oven, 
besprinkle with powdered sugar, glaze slightly brown, and serve in a 
baking-dish. 



No. 110. 

Friday, April 20. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Printanier, au vert-pre. 

Matelote of eel and carp a la Bercy \ 
Potatoes a la Colbert. 

Calf's liver braised a 1' Italienne ; 
Scrambled eggs with asparagus. 

Plain lobster, Mayonnaise sauce 
Lettuce salad. 



Bavarois aux abricots. 

Printanier au Vert-Pre. — Prepare three pints of printanier soup 
as directed [No. 251] ; add the same quantity of puree of spinach soup 
and sufficient vegetable green [No. 107] to give the right tint to the 
soup, and serve. 

Matelote of Eel and Carp ^ la Bercy.— Take a large eel and 
two pounds of small carp ; clean nicely, cut in pieces, put in a sauce- 
pan with salt, mignonette pepper, a bunch of parsley, three cloves of 
garlic, and enough claret wine to cover ; set to boil, and simmer for ten 
minutes ; drain and transfer the fish to another saucepan, with some 
mushrooms and two dozen smnll glazed onions ; keep warm ; thicken 
the liquid with an ounce and a half of flour kneaded with butter, boil 



1 86 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

ten minutes, press through a napkin over the fish, and boil slowly three 
minutes longer ; finish with a tablespoonful of anchovy essence, lemon- 
juice, and two ounces of butter in small bits ; mix carefully, dish up 
in pyramidal form, pour the sauce over, surround with eight crayfish 
and heart-shaped crodtons fried in butter, and serve. 

Potatoes a la Colbert— [No. 285.] 

Calf's Liver Braised a 1' Italienne.— Select a liver of light 
pinky color ; with a larding-needle fasten inside long and well-seasoned 
shreds of fat pork ; put this in a stewpan with lard trimmings, slices of 
ham, sliced carrots and onions, a bunch of parsley, salt, and aromatics; 
moisten with a quart of broth, two ladlefuls of tomato sauce, and two 
glasses of sherry wine ; cover with bardes of lard, set to boil, cover the 
stewpan, and cook slowly for about two hours, taking care to baste the 
liver occasionally with the gravy ; drain and keep the liver warm ; free 
the gravy of its fat, strain, and thicken with an ounce of flour browned 
in butter, reduce to the desired consistency ; add slightly fried chopped 
shallots and chopped mushrooms, two tablespoonfuls of good sweet oil, 
chopped parsley and lemon-juice, and mix well ; dish up the liver, pour 
some of the sauce round, and serve the rest in a sauce-bowl. 

Scrambled Eggs with Asparagus. — Cook small green aspara- 
gus-tops [No. 97] ; heat in a small sautoir with a little melted butter ; 
break and beat eight or more eggs in a saucepan with salt, pepper, nut- 
meg, a gill of raw cream, and two ounces of table butter in small bits ; 
set on the fire and stir continually with a wooden spoon ; when cooked 
enough, add the asparagus, mix well, pour into a hollow dish, smooth 
the surface, surround with triangular slices of bread fried in butter, and 
serve. 

Plain Lobster, Mayonnaise Sauce. — Boil two medium-sized 
lobsters for thirty minutes in salted and acidulated water ; drain, let 
cool, slit lengthwise, remove the stony pouch and intestines, and crack 
the claws ; dish up on a folded napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve 
with mayonnaise sauce [No. 254] in a sauce-bowl. 

Lettuce Salad. — The salad can be served plain in a salad-bowl, 
along with the lobster and a caster of salad ingredients. 

Bavarois aux Abricots. — Put a quart of preserved or fresh apri- 
cots in a copper basin, with a half pound of sugar ; reduce to the con- 
sistency ot a marmalade, and press forcibly through a fine sieve ; 
dissolve on the fire an ounce and a half of clarified gelatine in a gill of 
water, mix with the marmalade, and cool partially ; this done, mix with 
sufficient cream whipped to a froth [No. 77] to fill an enlremet-mould ; 
imbed in broken ice, cool thoroughly, immerse in tepid water, turn on 
a dish, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 187 

No. 111. 

Saturday, April 21. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Bisque of plover, a la Rossini. 

Mussels a la mariniere ; 
Broiled potatoes. 

Gristles of veal with mushrooms ; 
Baked white asparagus. 

Fried chicken a la Rockaway ; 
Escarole salad. 



Gateau de plomb. 

Bisque of Plover, a la Rossini. — Pick, draw, and put six plover 
in a saucepan with a piece of butter ; fry slightly brown, drain the but- 
ter, moisten with a quart of broth and two glasses of port wine ; add a 
small bunch of parsley with aromatics and a sliced onion ; boil, cover, 
and simmer about fifty minutes ; drain and reserve the broth, remove 
the parsley, and, taking out most of the bones, pound the meat to a 
pulp ; meanwhile cook thoroughly half a pound of semoule in three 
pints of broth, add the pounded meat and the reserved broth, press the 
whole 'twice through a fine sieve; return the residue to the stewpan, 
stir steadily, and heat well without boiling ; season to taste, and serve 
with inch-long pieces of grisini bread on a plate. 

Mussels a la Mariniere. — Cleanse, wash thoroughly, and cook 
some mussels as directed [No. 118]; drain the liquor and remove 
one of the shells ; that is to say, leave the mussel on the shell it ad- 
heres to ; put into a large saucepan four ounces of butter with two 
tablespoonfuls of chopped onion, salt, mignonette, and a little red 
pepper, two tablespoonfuls of good vinegar, and about a pint of mussel 
liquor ; add the mussels, cover the saucepan, and boil ten minutes ; 
add two ladlefuls of white sauce and some chopped parsley ; mix 
well by tossing the mussels in the saucepan, pour into a hollow dish, and 
serve. 

Broiled Potatoes. — [No. 355.] 

Gristles of Veal with Mushrooms. — Prepare and cook six 
pounds of gristle of veal as directed [No. 79] ; add a pound of fresh 
mushrooms, cooked separately with a little salt, butter, and lemon-juice 
(the liquid must be used to stew the meat) ; finish with a liaison of four 
egg-yolks and two ounces of butter ; mix well by stirring ; boil no 
longer, dish up, and serve. 

Baked White Asparagus. — Scrape, wash, tie in bunches, and 
boil rather firm some white asparagus, then drain on a cloth without 
cooling ; prepare about a pint of consistent bechamel sauce, add three 



i88 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

egg-yolks and three ounces of grated parmesan cheese ; mix and stir to 
boiling ; have an oval buttered baking-dish, range in it a layer of aspar- 
agus, all the heads one way, mask the eating part only with some of the 
sauce and a little grated cheese ; add another layer of asparagus, and 
so on until the whole is used, Cnishing with sauce, cheese, and a little 
fresh bread-crumbs and small bits of butter on top ; cover the stalks 
with a curved tin sheet, so that only the masked part will be exposed to 
the heat, and bake to a nice color ; take off the tin sheet, and serve. 

Fried Chicken a la Rockaway. — Take two large tender chick- 
ens ; singe, draw, and cut as for fricassee ; put on a dish with salt, 
pepper, chives, chervil, two bay-leaves, and juice of two lemons to steep 
for two hours ; drain, roll in flour, and cook slightly brown in clarified 
butter ; peel eight large white rockaway or bermuda onions, slice 
crosswise and part in rings ; besprinkle with flour and fry in plenty 
of very hot fat until slightly crisp and well done ; drain on a cloth 
and salt a little ; drain and dish up the chickens, cover with the 
onions, and serve with tomato sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Escarole Salad. — [No. 103.] 

Giteau de Plomb. — Sift a pound of flour on the table ; make 
a hole in the centre, put in it a little salt, half an ounce of sugar, 
half a pound of mellow butter, and a gill of cream ; knead the whole 
together, and add another gill of cream, while rubbing to and fro, 
twice with the hands, on the table ; put this into a moist cloth and 
let rest half an hour; give the mass a round form, with a rolling-pin, 
flatten to an inch thick, place in a buttered pastry-ring on a bakings 
sheet, egg the surface, cut a few crosswise incisions, and pick with 
the point of a knife ; cook in a moderately heated oven for about 
an hour, cool, and serve. 



No. 112. 

Sunday, April 22. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Consomme a la Montmorency, 

Brook-trout, sauce Genevoise ; 
Potatoes a la IloUandaise. 

Chickens a 1' estragon ; 
Green peas. 

Lamb chops in paper ; 
Tomato salad. 

White coffee ice-cream. 

Consomme a la Montmorency. — Have six heads of lettuce ; 
pare off the greenest leaves, wash the rest well, and parboil for five 



COOKERY BOOK. 189 

minutes in salted water ; cool, press the water gently out, cut the let- 
tuce in halves, season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; spread a little 
chicken force-meat [No. 294] on the inside of each half, fold over, range 
in a buttered sautoir, moisten with a little broth, cover with a buttered 
paper, and cook slowly for an hour ; drain on a sieve ; trim neatly and 
range on a hollow dish with a little chicken-broth ; prepare in a soup- 
tureen some small chicken force-meat quenelles [No. 126], and a pint 
of nouilles cut in half-inch wide lozenges ; pour over these two quarts 
of strong chicken-broth, and send to table along with the lettuce in a 
separate dish to be served on the plates with the soup. 

Brook-Trout, Sauce Genevoise. — Procure two or more large 
brook-trout ; scale, draw by the gills, remove the blood-vessel that lies 
along the spine, truss the head to the body ; put the fish on the grate 
in a narrow fish-boiler with salt, a bunch of parsley, pepper-corns, two 
cloves of garlic, red wine and white broth in equal parts, and just 
enough of broth to cover the fish ; put a sheet of paper over and cook 
slowly for thirty minutes ; strain enough liquid to make a Genevoise 
sauce [No. 275] ; drain the fish, slide on a folded napkin, garnish with 
parsley, and serve with the sauce in a bowl. 

Potatoes a la Hollandaise. — [No. 4.] 

Chickens a 1' Estragon. — Truss nicely two tender chickens, rub 
the breast with lemon-juice, and cover with bardes of fat pork ; put in 
a stewpan with salt, sliced carrot and onions, estragon (tarragon) sprigs, 
and a quart of good white broth ; cover, boil briskly for five minutes, 
then cook slowly until done ; drain the chickens, keep them warm, and 
make the following sauce : 

Estragon Sauce. — Skim all the fat, and strain the broth, thicken 
with a tablespoonful of flour slightly cooked in butter ; stir and boil 
down to the consistency of a sauce ; skim, add two ounces of butter, and 
press through a napkin ; dish up the chickens, add a tablespoonful of 
slightly boiled estragon leaves to the sauce, pour this over the chickens, 
and serve. 

Lamb Chops in Paper. — Pare, flatten lightly, and season eight 
lamb chops ; put them in a sautoir with two ounces of hot butter and 
fry underdone and slightly brown ; drain the chops, put a tablespoonful 
of chopped shallots in the sautoir, fry a little, add a pint of chopped 
mushrooms and a pint of espagnole sauce, stir and reduce until pretty 
consistent ; then add the chops and some chopped parsley, boil the 
whole together for a few minutes, turn into a dish and let cool partially ; 
meanwhile have as many thick sheets of note-paper as there are chops, 
cut in heart-shape ; oil these and spread them on the table, put a thin 



1 90 FRA NCO-A ME RICA N 

slice of boiled ham on each side of the paper and a chop with its sauce 
on the right side ; fold the paper over, and with the thumb and lingers 
of the right hand twist the edges in close, tight folds ; repeat the same 
for every chop and range on a baking-sheet, bake a light brown in a 
moderate oven, and serve with demi-glaze sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Tomato Salad.— [No. i86.] 

White Coffee Ice-Cream. — Roast six ounces of mocha coffee- 
beans in an untinned, bright copper basin, then infuse for an hour with 
a pint and a half of boiled milk, in a small covered saucepan, on the side 
of the fire ; mix in another saucepan twelve egg-yolks with twelve 
ounces of sugar, dilute with the coffee infusion and a quart of cream ; 
stir on the fire with a wooden spoon, and as soon as the preparation 
thickens, strain immediately through a fine sieve ; stir occasionally 
while cooling, then freeze in the ordinary way ; put in a mould, and 
imbed in salted ice for two hours ; when wanted immerse in tepid 
water, turn on a folded napkin, and serve. 



No. 113. 

Monday, April 23. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Puree of potatoes a la Tur^nne. 

Boiled perch, oyster sauce ; 
Baked potatoes a la Mantaise. 

Colloped veal, with asparagus ; 
Stewed beets, with cream. 

Cutlets of pigeon a la Provencale ; 
Lettuce and egg salad. 

Cougloff cake a I'Allemande. 

Puree of Potatoes ^ la Turenne. — Roast in the oven and mash 
some potatoes as directed [No. 94] ; dilute with three pints of white 
broth and three pints of boiled milk, boil ten minutes, and press 
through a fine sieve ; season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a little 
sugar ; heat well, add a handful of sorrel cut in short shreds and cooked 
in butter, three ounces of salt pork cut in small squares, partly boiled, 
and fried slightly brown, and three ounces of butter in small bits ; mix 
well, and serve. 

Boiled Perch, Oyster Sauce.— Procure about three pounds of 
large perch ; scale, cleanse, and cook in salted and acidulated water ; 
slide on a napkin, surround with parsley, and serve with oyster sauce 
[No. 73] in a sauce-bowl. 

Baked Potatoes ^ la Mantaise.— [No. 296.] 



COOKERY BOOK. 191 

Colloped Veal, with Asparagus.— Cut three pounds of lean, 
white veal in about sixteen slices, remove the sinews, flatten, and pare 
nicely ; season with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg ; put in a sautoir 
with four ounces of melted butter, fry slowly and slightly brown, if at 
all ; drain the butter off, sprinkle an ounce of sifted flour over the veal, 
mix well, dilute with a pint of white broth, a pint of water, and two 
glasses of white wine ; add a bunch of parsley, stir to boiling, cover and 
let simmer gently for half an hour ; remove the parsley, thicken with 
four egg-yolks diluted with a cup of cream ; add a pint of asparagus 
tops previously cooked, and warmed in a little butter ; finish with 
juice of a lemon, and four ounces of butter in small bits ; mix care- 
fully by stirring the sautoir ; boil no longer ; dish up in pyramid form, 
pour the sauce over, and serve. 

Stewed Beets, with Cream.— [No. 60.] 

Cutlets of Pigeon a la Provengale. — Have four tender pigeons ; 
pick, singe, draw, and cut them in halves ; take out all the bones except 
the stumps and pinions, and flatten slightly ; season with salt and 
pepper, and put them in a sautoir, with a little sweet oil, the inside 
underneath ; fry briskly three minutes on each side, and put to cool 
between two tin sheets with a weight on top ; pare nicely, immerse in 
melted butter, roll in fresh bread-crumbs, smooth with the blade of a 
knife, and broil slowly and of a nice color above a moderate charcoal 
fire ; dish up in a circle, the best side uppermost ; alternate with heart- 
shaped slices of bread fried in butter ; pour a provengale sauce [No. 
305] in the centre (make this sauce with the oil left in the sautoir after 
taking out the pigeons); ornament the stump-bones with small white- 
paper ruffles, and serve. 

Lettuce and Egg Salad. — Prepare a lettuce salad [No. 98], 
with the addition of hard-boiled eggs cut in quarters. 

Cougloff Cake a T Allemande. — Prepare a pound of sifted flour 
and warm slightly ten eggs ; put half a pound of butter in a warm 
earthen vessel, work with a wooden spoon until creamy and whitish, 
add an egg and a tablespoonful of flour ; mix well, then add another 
egg and flour, and so on until the eggs and flour are used ; dilute an 
ounce of concentrated yeast, a little salt, and an ounce of sugar with 
three gills of tepid cream and a tablespoonful of orange-flower water ; 
strain this over the preparation and mix again ; butter a large copper 
biscuit-mould ; line the bottom with scalded Jordan almonds slit in 
halves ; then pour the preparation gradually in the mould till a little 
over half full, and place in a warm closet to rise ; when the mould is 
nearly full, cook in a moderate oven for fully an hour ; test the cook- 



192 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

ing by inserting a skewer in the centre and feeling if the dough is firm ; 
turn on a plate, take off the mould, and serve cold. 



No. 114. 

Tuesday, April 24. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Chicken, i la chiffonnade. 

Roast eel, shallot sauce ; 
Stuffed potatoes. 

Beef-tongue au Parmesan ; 
Puree of sorrel with eggs. 

Mallard ducks k I'Americaine ; 
Escarole salad 4 1' estragon. 

Gelee fouettee au citron. 

Chicken Soup ^ la Chiffonnade. — Cut a large tender chicken 
in small pieces ; put it in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, stir and 
fry slightly brown ; moisten with three quarts of clear white broth ; set 
to boil, skim well, then with the skimmer transfer the chicken to another 
stewpan and strain the liquid over ; add a bunch of leeks, parsley, and 
aromatics tied together, cover, and cook slowly ; when done, remove 
the leeks, etc. ; add a chiffonnade made with the tender leaves of two 
lettuce-stalks, some sorrel and chervil, the whole cut in fine shreds ; 
boil five minutes longer ; pour the whole into a soup-tureen, and 
serve. 

Roast Eel, Shallot Sauce. — Procure a large eel ; keep the head 
on, skin, draw, cut the fins off, and singe over live coals to remove the 
second skin ; with a larding-needle string rows of short and small shreds 
of salt pork on the back ; put the fish in an earthen vessel with a 
glass of vinegar, a little broth, salt, pepper, chopped shallots and pars- 
ley, a bay-leaf and a sprig of thyme, and let marinate for three hours ; 
drain, and give the fish an oval form, securing the tail along the head ; 
insert a long and two short skewers through the eel to keep it in proper 
condition ; put on the spit by tying both ends and the centre firmly on 
the long skewer ; roast of a nice color before a bright fire or in a 
moderately heated oven for forty minutes, taking care to baste the fish 
with the marinade while cooking ; untie the eel and take off the skewers ; 
put the eel in a dish, range thin slices of gherkins on the edge, strain 
and reduce the drippings with shallot sauce [No. 207] ; pour this in the 
centre, and serve. 

Stuffed Potatoes.— [No. 339.] 

Beef-Tongue au Parmesan. — Soak, scald, and cook a fresh 



COOKERY BOOK. 193 

beef- tongue as directed [No. 97] ; drain and cut in about twelve 
slices ; fry slightly brown a tablespoonful of chopped shallots with two 
ounces of butter, sprinkle an ounce and a half of sifted flour over, 
dilute with a pint of broth, and season with salt, nutmeg, white and red 
pepper ; stir and boil ten minutes ; butter and strew a little parmesan 
cheese in a baking-dish ; dip the tongue in the sauce and arrange in a 
circle ; mask with the rest of the sauce, besprinkle with chopped 
parsley, a handful of fresh bread-crumbs, and more grated parmesan 
cheese ; put small bits of butter on top and bake for about fifteen min- 
utes ; press the juice of a lemon over, and serve in the baking-dish. 

Puree of Sorrel with Eggs. — Prepare sufficient of puree of 
sorrel [No. 267] ; pour into a deep dish, garnish with eight eggs boiled 
five and a half minutes, shelled, and cut in halves ; pour a little reduced 
gravy over, and serve. 

Mallard Ducks d 1' Americaine. — Roast rare two or more 
mallard ducks ; carve the legs in two, and the fillets in three or 
more slices, and keep warm in a covered plate ; crack the carcasses, put 
them in a saucepan with half a pint of broth, two shallots, a bay-leaf, a 
sprig of thyme, two cloves, and two ladlefuls of thick brown gravy ; 
boil half an hour, strain through a colander, add two glasses of port 
wine and some melted currant jelly ; reduce to the desired consistency, 
skim, and press through a napkin ; dish up the ducks in a pyramid 
form, pour the sauce over, and serve with quartered lemon on a plate. 

Escarole Salad a 1' Estragon. — Prepare an escarole salad [No. 
103] with the addition of a handful of finely cut tarragon leaves. 

Gelee Fouettee au Citron. — Put in a tinned basin a quart of 
water, with the rind of four and the juice of six large juicy lemons, ten 
ounces of white sugar, and an ounce and a half of well-steeped and 
drained gelatine ; stir on the fire until the sugar and gelatine are 
melted and the liquid lukewarm ; strain through a fine sieve into a 
large earthen basin ; set to cool until the jelly commences to congeal, 
then stir with an egg-whip till whitish and frothy ; pour into an 
entremet-mould, previously imbedded in ice, and let cool thoroughly ; 
immerse in tepid water, turn upon a very cold dish, and serve. 



194 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 115. 

Wednesday, April 25. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Cream of rice, with chervil ; 

Shad au court-bouillon ; 
Lyonnaise potatoes. 

Shoulders of lamb, glazed ; 
Green peas with lard. 

Cold snipe pie ; 
Cucumber and tomato salad. 

Pancakes with preserves. 

Cream of Rice, with Chervil. — Boil twelve ounces of rice with 
three quarts of milk and make a pur6e as directed [No, 355] ; stir and 
heat very well but do not boil ; finish with two ounces of butter, a little 
sugar, and a handful of chervil sliced fine and slightly boiled, and serve. 

Shad au Court-Bouillon. — Procure a large roe-shad ; draw by the 
gills and clean nicely ; place on the perforated sheet in a fish-kettle, with 
two ounces of butter, salt, pepper, two blades of mace, a bunch of parsley, 
some parsley-leaves, two bermuda onions sliced crosswise, and claret wine 
to nearly cover ; place a sheet of paper over, cover the kettle, set to 
boil and cool slowly for forty minutes ; remove the bunch of parsley, 
drain the shad, put the sliced onions over it and keep warm ; strain and 
thicken the liquid with an ounce and a half of flour, browned in butter, 
boil fifteen minutes and press through a napkin, finish with three 
ounces of butter, lemon-juice, and a pinch of red pepper ; dish up the 
fish, pour the sauce over, and serve. 

Lyonnaise Potatoes. — [No. 6.] 

Shoulders of Lamb, Glazed. — Have two large and fat shoulders 
of lamb ; saw the shin-bones short, and remove the shoulder-blade and 
round bone without injuring the surface ; season inside, fold lengthwise, 
and truss nicely ; put in a sautoir with two ounces of butter and 
fry slightly brown ; add a sliced carrot and onion, a bunch of parsley, 
salt, and pepper-corns, the broken bones from the shoulders, a pint of 
broth, half a pint of white wine and two ladlefuls of tomato sauce ; 
boil, cover, and cook slowly for an hour and a half, taking care to baste 
occasionally with the gravy and to glaze of a nice light-brown color ; 
drain and keep the shoulders warm ; strain and free the gravy of its 
fat, reduce to the consistency of a demi-glaze sauce, and pass through 
a napkin ; untie, pare, and dish up the shoulders ; ornament with fanci- 
fully cut white-paper ruffles, pour the sauce round the dish, and serve. 

Green Peas with Lard. — Remove the rind and cut in small 
squares six ounces of salt pork ; parboil five minutes, drain, and fry 



COOKERY BOOK. 



195 



slightly brown in a stewpan with an ounce of butter ; sprinkle half an 
ounce of flour over and fry three minutes longer ; add three pints of 
small, fresh-shelled green peas, parsley, and green-onion stalks tied to- 
gether in a bunch, and a pint of water ; stir, set to boil, cover, and 
cook slowly for half an hour ; remove the bunch of parsley and onions, 
skim the fat, taste, and serve. 

Cold Snipe Pie. — Bone a dozen snipe ; fill them with well-sea- 
soned, raw game force-meat mingled with cooked ham and lard cut 
in squares, and a glass of sherry wine ; butter and place in a game- 
pie mould on a round baking-sheet, line the bottom and sides with 
short paste, as directed [No. 22] ; begin the filling with a layer 
of force-meat and half of the snipe, then more force-meat and the 
rest of the snipe, finishing with force-meat and thin slices of fat pork 
with two bay-leaves on top ; wet the edges, cover with a thin flat of 
paste, make the edges stick together by pressing gently between the 
thumbs and forefingers, trim evenly and pinch all round with a pastry 
pinch ; egg the surface, put a similar thin round of feuilletage paste on 
the cover, egg again, trace a few lines over, make an inch-wide hole in 
the centre, and cook slowly for two hours ; cool partially, fill the pie 
through the hole with jelly made with the game bones, a knuckle of 
veal, beef-broth, and a glass of sherry wine ; remove the mould, cool 
thoroughly and serve. 

Cucumber and Tomato Salad. — Prepare a tomato salad [No. 
186] with the addition of finely sliced cucumbers. 

Pancakes with Preserves. — Prepare and make enough pan- 
cakes as directed [No. 253], substituting currant jelly for peaches ; 
serve. -^ 



No. 116. 

Thursday, April 26. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Veal-broth a la Dauphine. 

Fricasseed prawns i la Creole ; 
Boiled rice. 



Veal chops i 1' ecarlate ; 
Asparagus on toast. 

Croustades of plover i la Provengale { 
Water-cress and pepper-grass salad, 

Bavarois au caramel. 

Veal-Broth ^ la Dauphine. — Make a custard with two eggs, 
twelve egg-yolks, a pint of veal-broth, salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg ; 
mix well, press through a napkin into a buttered plain mould ; put 



196 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

this in a saucepan half full of boiling water ; cover and boil slowly till 
well set ; this done, drain, let cool, turn on a wet napkin, and divide in 
slices a third of an inch thick ; then with an inch-wide, round paste- 
cutter cut in small pieces ; prepare three quarts of veal- broth [No. 
298], with a pint of cooked asparagus-tops and a tablespoonful of finely 
cut tarragon leaves ; boil three minutes, pour into a soup-tureen, add 
the rounds of custard, cover, and serve. 

Fricasseed Prawns a la Creole. — Shell a gallon of prawns, 
put on a plate ; melt in a sautoir four ounces of butter with two table- 
spoonfuls of chopped shallots and two bruised cloves of garlic ; fry 
slightly brown ; add a pint of espagnole sauce, a pint of stewed toma- 
toes freed of seeds, sweet chillies, a little cayenne pepper, and half a 
pint of good white wine ; stir, and boil down until pretty consistent ; 
add the prawns, boil a few minutes longer, finish with the juice of a 
lemon, and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley ; jmix well by tossing in 
the sautoir ; dish up and serve with plain boiled rice in a separate dish. 

Boiled Rice.— [No. 69.] 

Veal Chops a 1' Ecarlate. — Take eight large veal chops ; pare, 
and flatten slightly ; put in a sautoir with four ounces of melted butter, 
salt, and pepper ; set on a brisk fire, cover the sautoir and fry slightly 
brown and well on both sides ; drain, dish up in a circle, alternate with 
a chop-shaped slice of red beef-tongue ; drain off the fat and put a pint 
of tomato sauce in the sautoir ; boil three minutes, pour the sauce into 
the centre of the dish, add small white-paper ruffles to the rib-bones, 
and serve. 

Asparagus on Toast.— [No. 98.] 

Croustades of Plover a la Provengale.— Pluck, draw, and 
truss eight plover ; put into a sautoir with four tablespoonfuls of sweet 
oil ; fry slightly brown and very rare, drain, and keep on a plate ; put 
into the sautoir with the oil a pint of finely sliced mushrooms and two 
bruised cloves of garlic ; fry three minutes ; add a glass of white wine, 
two ladlefa43,:of espagnole sauce, salt, white and a pinch of red pepper; 
and boil a few minutes ; put the plover on eight hollow oval slices of 
bread previously fried in oil ; range in a baking-pan, pour the reduced 
sauce over, besprinkle with a few fresh bread-crumbs, and bake nicely 
for about ten minutes ; range on a dish, sprinkle chopped parsley and 
press juice of a lemon over ; serve with some rich gravy in a sauce- 
bowl. 

Water-Cress and Pepper-Grass Salad. — Pick, wash, and 
drain some water-cress ; put in a salad bowl ; add a good handful of 
finely cut pepper-grass, and serve with a caster of salad ingredients. 



COOKERY BOOK. 197 

This salad is very appropriate with game highly seasoned as just 
described. 

Bavarois au Caramel. — Put two ounces of powdered sugar in a 
saucepan with the rinds of two lemons chopped fine ; set on a slow 
fire, stir with a wooden spoon until the sugar assumes a rather light 
brown color, then add a pint of cream and boil a minute ; mix in an- 
other saucepan, eight egg-yolks, with eight ounces of sugar, dilute with 
the cream, stir on the fire until it thickens and press through a fine 
sieve into a large earthen vessel ; mix with an ounce and a half of gela- 
tine dissolved in two gills of water ; cool partially, mix with sufficient 
whipt cream [No, 77] to fill a three-pint mould ; imbed in ice, cool 
thoroughly, and serve on a folded napkin. 



No. 117. 

Friday, April 27. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Rice and asparagus. 

Baked salted cod ; 
Potatoes a la villageoise. 

Epigrammes of lamb with green peas ; 
Fricasseed eggs with cream. 

Lobster a la Nantaise \ 
Lettuce- salad. 

Branc-manger fritters a la Madrilene. 

Rice and Asparagus. — Prepare three quarts of clear rice- 
soup as directed [No. 263], put a pint of small cooked green asparagus- 
tops in the soup at the last moment, boil a minute, pour into a soup- 
tureen, and serve. 

Baked Salted Cod. — Soak, cook, and part in pieces four pounds 
of dried cod as directed [No. 104] ; melt in a saucepan four ounces of 
butter with an ounce of flour, mignonette pepper, and grated nutmeg ; 
dilute with a pint and a half of cream, set on the fire, stir continually, and 
boil two minutes.; add the cod, mingle carefully with a wooden spoon, 
and let cool ; butter a plated or china baking-dish, dish up the fish in 
dome form, as high as possible ; smooth the surface, cover with fresh 
bread-crumbs and a little grated parmesan cheese ; sprinkle melted 
butter over to moisten a little ; add bread-crumbs and cheese a second 
time, and melted butter again ; place on a baking-sheet and bake 
slowly and light brown, until thoroughly heated ; surround with tri- 
angular slices of bread fried in butter, and serve in the baking-dish 
placed in another of the same size. 



198 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Potatoes ^ la Villageoise.— [No. 5.] 

Epigrammes of Lamb with Green Peas. — Proceed as 

directed [No. 104], but garnish with green peas instead of printaniere. 

Fricasseed Eggs with Cream. — Boil hard ten or more eggs ; 
cool, shell, and cut in slices ; mix with about a pint and a half of cream 
sauce [No. 11] ; pour into a hollow dish, besprinkle with chopped 
parsley, and serve. 

Lobsters a la Nantaise. — Boil two middle-sized lobsters in 
salted and acidulated water, with two sliced onions, pepper-corns, four 
bay-leaves, thyme, cloves, and four blades of mace, for twenty-five min- 
utes ; let cool in the water ; drain, split lengthwise, crack the claws, 
remove the stony pouch and intestines ; put the creamy part, coral, and 
eggs (if any) into a large bowl with two egg-yolks, a tablespoonful 
of prepared mustard, salt, and mignonette pepper ; dilute slowly 
at first and then more quickly with half a pint of sweet oil (green is the 
best) and a little tarragon vinegar ; add chopped chives, chervil, 
tarragon, and parsley ; cut the lobster meat in thin slices, range in 
a salad-bowl, pour the sauce over, and serve. 

Lettuce Salad. — This salad may be served plain and eaten with 
the lobster and dressing. 

Blanc-Manger Fritters ^ la Madrilene. — Put in a saucepan 
ten ounces of rice flour, a little salt, and the rind of a lemon, chopped 
fine ; dilute with a quart of milk ; set on the fire, stir steadily and boil 
until pretty consistent ; add half a pound of sugar and two ounces 
of pulverized macaroons, stir, and boil ten minutes longer ; then add, 
one by one, six eggs, and stir to boiling ; turn on a large floured tin- 
sheet, spread half an inch thick, and let cool ; then cut in half-inch 
squares, put into a large sieve with pulverized macaroons or sponge- 
cake, and shake the sieve to crumb them all over ; a few moments before 
serving, put some in a colander or a fine wire basket, immerse in plenty 
of very hot fat, fry slightly brown, and drain on a cloth ; repeat the 
same until all have been fried ; besprinkle with powdered sugar, dish in 
a pyramid form on a folded napkin, and serve. In Madrid the white 
meat of a roasted chicken, pounded to a pulp and rubbed through 
a sieve, is added to this preparation with the rice flour and milk ; it is 
called " manjar branco." 



COOKERY BOOK. 

No. 118. 

Saturday, April 28. — Bill of fare for eight persons 

Soup : Cream of semoule, with herbs. 

Grenadins of bass with mussels ; 
Potato croquettes. 

Calf's ears a la Lyonnaise ; 
Asparagus tops with gravy. 

Tureen of plover ; 
Beet and escarole salad. 



199 



Compote of quinces. 

Cream of Semoule, with Herbs.— Cook half a pound of semoule 
with two ounces of butter, two quarts of veal-broth, salt, pepper, and 
nutmeg as directed [No. 87] ; press through a fine sieve, dilute to the 
desired consistency with boiling milk, stir nearly to a boil ; finish with 
two ounces of butter, a little sugar, and two tablespoonfuls of finely cut 
chervil and chives ; mix well, and serve with small round thin crusts of 
french bread dried in the oven. 

Grenadins of Bass with Mussels.— Remove quickly the hairy 
tuft, scrape and wash thoroughly two quarts of mussels ; put them in 
a large stewpan with a gill of water, an ounce of butter, a sliced onion, 
and sprays of parsley ; cover and boil until they are all open ; drain 
the liquor, pick the mussels from the shells ; put them in an earthen 
vessel (metal blackens them and impairs the taste) with a little of their 
liquor, and keep till wanted. 

Take the fillets of a well cleansed and very fresh four-pound striped 
bass ; remove the skin, cut each fillet in two, pare and flatten slightly ; 
with a larding-needle fasten long small squares of fat pork on one 
side ; place the fish in a buttered sautoir, the larded side uppermost, 
with salt, pepper, a glass of white wine, and a little mussel liquor, and 
put a buttered paper over ; boil, put in the oven, and cook well and 
nicely glazed ; meanwhile, put the head, bones, parings, and skin in a 
saucepan, with salt, mignonette pepper, nutmeg, sliced onion, and 
parsley, a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, an ounce of butter, half a pint of 
white wine, a little water, and the liquor of the mussels ; cover and boil 
slowly an hour ; strain, and press the liquid through a colander, thicken 
with an ounce and a half of flour cooked in butter ; boil ten minutes, 
skim ; finish with a liaison of four egg-yolks, four ounces of butter, and 
lemon-juice ; mingle well, and press through a napkin ; dish the fish in 
a row ; alternate with four slices of bread of the same shape, fried in 
butter ; drain, mingle, and heat the mussels wnth part of the sauce ; 
pour this around the fish, and serve the rest of the sauce in a p?'ti'-«. 
bowl. 



200 FRANCO-AMERICAN I 

i 

f 

Potato Croquettes.— [No. 75.] 

Calf's Ears a la Lyonnaise. — Scald, soak, and cook four or 
more calves' ears as directed [No. 22] ; drain, cool, and cut in shreds ; 
fry brown two sliced onions in butter, besprinkle with half an ounce of 
flour, mix, and dilute with a pint of beef-broth ; add salt, pepper, and 
a teaspoonful of vinegar ; boil ten minutes ; add the ears, boil ten 
minutes longer ; dish up, besprinkle with chopped parsley, garnish with 
fried heart-shaped croutons, and serve. 

Asparagus Tops with Gravy. — Cook and cool sufficient aspar- 
agus tops [No. 87] ; mix in a saucepan a ladleful of espagnole sauce 
with four ounces of butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a little sugar ; add 
the asparagus ; heat and mix carefully, and serve into a deep dish. 

Tureen of Plover (Cold Potted Plover). — Bone eight or more 
plover ; fill them with well-seasoned raw game force-meat, mixed with 
squares of cooked ham, lard, and a glass of sherry wine ; boil the bones 
with a small knuckle of veal, sliced vegetables, and aromatics, and two 
quarts of broth ; cover, boil slowly two hours ; skim the fat, strain, 
reduce to about a pint, and keep till wanted ; have a large baking- 
tureen (those imported with fat livers from Strasbourg are the best), 
and line it with thin bardes of fat pork ; begin the filling with a thin 
layer of game force-meat, then half the plover, more force-meat, and 
the rest of the plover, finishing with force-meat and thin bardes of lard ; 
put two bay-leaves on top ; cover the tureen, place it in a baking-pan, 
and cook in a moderately heated oven for an hour and a half ; cool 
partially, fill to the top with the prepared gravy, and cool overnight ; 
cleanse the tureen, remove the bay-leaves, and serve. 

Beet and Escarole Salad. — Prepare escarole salad [No. 103] 
with the addition of a cooked red beet sliced fine. 

Compote of Quinces. — Open a quart of preserved quinces, and 
drain on a sieve ; reduce the syrup with more sugar and a glass of 
cognac ; range the quinces in a compot-dish ; pour the cooled syrup 
over, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 201 



No. 119. 

Sunday, April 29. — Bill of fare for eight persons 

Soup : Consomme aux laitues. 

Brook-trout, court-bouillon sauce ; 
Potatoes a la duchesse. 



Saddle of Iamb, mint sauce ; 
Macaroni a la Napolitaine. 

Sand-snipe with water-cress ; 
Crayfish a la Colbert. 

Ice-cream a la Florentine. 

Consomme aux Laitues.— Have eight stalks of white-head let- 
tuce', pick off the greenest leaves; pare, wash, parboil, cool, and press 
the water out ; cut. in halves, spread open, season with salt and pepper, 
fold over, and tie each half with a string ; place in a sautoir with a 
little white broth, cover with a buttered paper, boil, and let simmer an 
hour ; drain on a cloth, take off the strings, and range in a hollow dish 
with the reduced broth ; cut two french rolls in thin slices, dry in the 
oven, put in a soup-tureen, and pour three quarts of consomme [No. 
133] over; cover, and send to table with the lettuce separately, to be 
served with the consomme. 

Brook-Trout, Court-Bouillon Sauce. — Boil two or more large 
brook-trout with claret wine as directed for sliad [No. 115], omitting 
the sliced onions and parsley leaves ; drain the fish, make a court- 
bouillon sauce with the liquid, and press through a napkin ; slide the 
fish on a dish, pour the sauce over, surround with eight large cooked 
crayfish, and heart-shaped croHtons fried in butter ; besprinkle with 
chopped parsley, and serve. 

Potatoes a la Duchesse.— [No. 258.] 

Saddle of Lamb, Mint Sauce. — Procure the saddle of a fat and 
well-fed spring lamb ; pare off the thin skin that covers the surface, tie 
firmly, and roast on the spit or in a moderate oven for about an hour ; 
drain, untie, and dish up the saddle ; skim off the fat, and add a ladle- 
ful of gravy to the drippings ; strain this over, and serve with mint 
sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Macaroni a la Napolitaine. — Scald, press out the seeds, and 
chop fine eight ripe tomatoes ; melt in a saucepan two ounces of butter 
with a chopped onion and six ounces of raw ham cut in small squares ; 
fry these slightly brown, add the tomatoes, fry a little longer, moisten 
with a pint of espagnole sauce, and boil fifteen minutes ; boil a pound 
of macaroni in salted water for twenty minutes ; drain, put in a sauce- 
pan with four ounces of butter in small bits, pepper, and nutmeg, and 



202 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

mix well ; pour a layer into a hollow dish, besprinkle with grated par- 
mesan cheese, and pour in part of the sauce ; then another layer of 
macaroni with more cheese and sauce, and so on until the whole is 
used, finishing with macaroni and cheese ; pour about four ounces of 
very hot and nearly browned clarified butter over, and serve, 

Sand-Snipe with Water-Cress. — Procure about eighteen 
snipe ; pluck, draw, put on small skewers, cover with thin bardes of 
lard, and cook rare ; range on thin toasted and buttered slices of 
bread ; pour the gravy over, garnish with water-cress, and serve. 

Crayfish a la Colbert. — Prepare and cook three dozen crayfish as 
directed [No. loi], and keep warm ; melt in a saucepan an ounce of 
butter with a tablespoonful of chopped shallot, fry long enough to 
evaporate the moisture, moisten with two ladlefuls of espagnole sauce 
and a pint of liquid from the crayfish ; boil ten minutes ; add four 
ounces of the best butter in small bits, chopped parsley, mignonette, 
and a pinch of red pepper ; mix well, drain, and put the crayfish in the 
sauce ; mix again by tossing in the saucepan, range in a dish, pour the 
sauce over, and serve. (By slightly cracking the claws and shelling the 
tails before mixing with the sauce, you greatly facilitate the eating of 
the fish.) 

Ice-Cream ^ la Florentine. — Put in a saucepan twelve egg-yolks 
and the rind of two oranges ; dilute slowly at first and then more 
quickly with a pint and a half of boiling syrup at twenty-five degrees, 
whipping with an egg-beater all the time ; stir occasionally while cool- 
ing ; add a pint and a half of raw, sweet cream ; mix well, press 
through a fine sieve ; freeze, put in a mould in salted ice for two 
hours, and serve in the ordinary way. 



No. 120. 

Monday, April 30. — Bill of fare for eight persons 

Soup : Cockie-leekie. 

Roast stuffed pike, wine sauce ; 
Potato cakes. 



Veal cutlets in paper ; 
String-beans a la maitie d' hotel. 

Fillets of duck, English style ; 
Lettuce and minced-ham salad. 

Croquettes of apples, 

Cockie-Leekie Soup. — Singe, draw, and cut a tender fowl in 
small pieces ; fry slightly brown in a stewpan, with two ounces of 



I 



COOKERY BOOK. 



203 



butter ; drain off the butter, moisten with two quarts of beef-broth and 
a quart of water, and set to boil ; with a skimmer transfer the chicken 
to another stewpan, and strain the broth over ; cut in inch lengths 
then in quarters, and parboil the white part of two bunches of leeks ; 
drain, add to the chicken, with salt, pepper, and a bunch of parsley, 
with aromatics ; cover, and allow the whole to boil slowly for fifty min- 
utes ; remove the parsley, skim off the fat, and serve. 

Roast Stuffed Pike, Wine Sauce. — Scale a large pike, draw 
by the gills, and cleanse thoroughly ; fill with a plain fish-stuffing [No. 
50] ; remove part of the skin, and fasten alternate rows of shreds of 
pickled gherkins and anchovies on each side ; truss the head to the 
body and insert a large skewer lengthwise through the pike ; spread 
mellow butter with chopped chives and parsley, salt and pepper on a 
large sheet of thick white paper ; infold the pike, fasten on spit or roast 
in the oven for fifty minutes, taking care to baste once in a while with 
a feather or hair pastry-brush dipped in melted butter ; unfold and dish 
up the fish ; add some white broth and two glasses of white wine to the 
drippings, and make a wine sauce as directed [No. 255] ; press through 
a napkin, glaze the fish with some meat or fish extract ; pour the sauce 
round, and serve. 

Potato Cakes. — [No. 302.] 

Veal Cutlets in Paper. — Select eight veal cutlets from the loin ; 
flatten and pare nicely ; season with salt and pepper, put in a sautoir 
with four ounces of melted butter ; cover and cook thoroughly and 
slightly brown on both sides ; then proceed and serve as directed for 
lamb chops [No. 112]. 

String-Beans a la Maitre d' Hotel. — Pick and string enough 
green beans : if large, slit them in two or three strips ; wash, and cook 
in plenty of salted boiling water , when tender, drain in a large colander ; 
immerse in cold water, cool thoroughly, and drain again ; melt in a sau- 
toir four ounces of butter fv'ith two ladlefuls of white sauce, salt, mign- 
onette pepper, and nutmeg : add the beans and a tablespoon ful of 
chopped parsley ; heat well by tossing the beans in the sautoir ; press 
in the juice of a lemon, pour into a deep dish, and serve. 

Fillets of Duck, English Style. — Roast rare four small wild 
duck (teal or widgeon) ; take up the fillets, dish up in a circle alter- 
nately with heart-shaped slices of bread fried in butter ; make an orange 
sauce with the carcasses and drippings [No. 75] ; pour this into the 
centre, range slices of orange on the edge of the dish, and serve. 

Lettuce and Minced-Harn Salad.~[No. 158] 

Croquettes of Apples. — Peel, quarter, and core twelve large 



204 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

apples ; slice and put in a saucepan with two ounces of melted butter, 
the rind of a lemon, and six ounces of sugar ; stir on the fire and reduce 
till very thick ; add six egg-yolks and a tablespoonful of fecula (potato 
starch) ; mix well, stir a few minutes longer, rub forcibly through a 
sieve, spread on a buttered dish-pan and cool thoroughly ; turn on a 
table strewn with pulverized crackers, divide, and give the pieces the 
shape and size of a large cork or of a small apple ; dip in beaten eggs, 
roll in fresh bread-crumbs, smooth nicely, and fry of a nice color in 
plenty of hot fat ; drain on a cloth, roll in powdered sugar, dish up on 
a folded napkin, and serve. 



No. 121. 

Tuesday, May i. — Bill of fare for eight persons. 

Soup ; Lamb and barley. 

Boiled salmon, prawn sauce ; 
Bermuda potatoes, English style. 

Sirloin of beef a la printaniere ; 
Tagliarini a 1' Italienne. 

English snipe in croustades ; 
Escarole and tarragon salad. 

Orange jelly, French style. 

Lamb and Barley Soup. — Take four ounces of pearl barley ; 
wash, parboil, cool, drain, then cook slowly with three pints of clear 
white broth for three hours ; bone off a shoulder of lamb, remove the 
fat and sinews, and cut in small pieces ; put in a stewpan with two 
ounces of butter and fry slightly brown ; drain the butter, add three 
quarts of broth, a little white pepper, a bunch of parsley with two 
cloves in it, two green onions, and two leeks tied together ; boil, skim, 
cover, and let simmer an hour ; remove the parsley, leeks, etc.; add the 
barley, boil the whole together, skim again, pour in a soup-tureen, and 
serve. 

Boiled Salmon, Prawn Sauce. — Boil a four-pound piece of 
salmon in salted and acidulated water with a sliced onion, a bunch of 
parsley, and aromatics : cover and let simmer forty minutes, drain, slide 
upon a folded napkin, surround with parsley, and serve with a prawn 
sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Prawn Sauce. — Make a pint of well-buttered white sauce ; tint 
slightly with lobster or crayfish butter ; add some shelled prawn-tails, 
juice of a lemon, and a pinch of red pepper ; mix well, boil no longer, 
and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 205 

Bermuda Potatoes, English Style.— [No. 293.] 

Sirloin of Beef, Printanidre. — Take a boned piece of fat sirloin 
weighing about eight pounds ; tie firmly, put in a brasiere with some 
beef-fat, and fry slightly brown ; drain the fat ; add sliced carrot and 
onion, a bunch of parsley, salt, a quart of broth, a pint of tomatoes, and 
a gill of sherry wine ; cover and cook slowly, the fat side uppermost, 
for about three hours, taking care to baste the meat occasionally, to 
glaze of a nice color , drain the beef and keep warm ; free the gravy of 
its fat, strain, add two ladlefuls of espagnole sauce, reduce to the 
consistency of a demi-glaze, and press through a napkin ; prepare a 
garnishing of green peas, string-beans, asparagus tops, carrots, turnips, 
and cucumbers, all cooked separately ; pare and dish up the beef ; range 
the different vegetables in separate groups around it, pour some of the 
sauce over, and serve more in a sauce-bowl. 

Tagliarini ^ 1' Italienne. — Boil a pound of tagliarini in salted 
water for ten minutes ; drain and prepare as macaroni a 1' italienne 
[No. 364]. 

English Snipe in Croustades. — Prepare a stuffing by slicing 
and frying slightly some chicken livers with fat pork ; cool, pound fine ; 
add salt, pepper, a little soaked and pressed white of bread, chopped fine 
herbs and three egg-yolks ; pound again and turn on a plate ; pick, 
draw, truss, and roast rare eight English snipe ; cut eight small inch- 
thick oval slices of bread, just large enough to hold a snipe each ; make 
a slight incision inside the edge on each side, and fry slightly brown in 
butter ; remove the inside crumbs, and line the pieces with the 
stuffing, place a snipe in each with more stuffiing round the birds ; 
put in a baking-pan, baste with melted butter and bake about twelve 
minutes in a moderate oven ; range on a dish, pour two tablespoonfuls 
of highly seasoned demi-glaze sauce over each bird, and serve. 

Escarole and Tarragon Salad. — [No. 114.] 

Orange Jelly, French Style. — Clarify in a tinned basin three 
pints of water, twelve ounces of sugar, and an ounce and a half of gela- 
tine, with two egg-whites ; strain through a wet napkin into an earthen 
vessel ; add the rind of four oranges pared very thin ; cover to prevent 
the volatile oil from escaping, and cool partially ; press out the juice of 
eight oranges and two lemons, and strain through a filtering paper ; mix 
with the clarified preparation ; add a few drops of prepared cochineal, 
strain the whole, pour into a jelly-mould imbedded in ice, and cool 
thoroughly ; at serving- time immerse in tepid water, and serve in the 
ordinary way. 



2o6 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 122. 

Wednesday, May 2. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Lobster, a 1' Indienne. 

Fried shad-roes, tomato sauce ; 
Fried potatoes, French style. 

Veal chops a la demi-glaze ; 
Green peas with ham. 

Tenderloin steaks a la Mirabeau ; 
Potato and fine herb salad. 



Omelet with kirschwasser. 

Lobster Soup ^ 1' Indienne. — Put into a saucepan four ounces 
of finely sliced ham and fat pork, two ounces of butter, a sliced carrot, 
an onion, and aromatics ; stir on the fire and fry slightly ; wash 
well, crack the shells, and put four pounds of small live lobsters with 
this, a gill of sherry wine, and two quarts of white broth ; cover, and 
boil an hour ; drain the lobsters, pick the meat from the claws and tails, 
cut in slices, and keep till wanted ; then pound the shells to a pulp ; 
mingle three ounces of flour with four ounces of melted butter ; cook 
slightly ; add three tablespoonfuls of curry powder or paste ; mix well, 
dilute with the broth, add the pounded shells, and more broth if too 
thick, stir to boiling, and boil slowly for fifteen minutes ; skim, press 
through a very fine sieve, boil again ; finish with a liaison of four egg- 
yolks, diluted with a gill of cream and an ounce of butter ; mixquicklj' ; 
boil no longer ; pour into a soup-tureen over the sliced lobster, and 
serve with a dish of plain boiled rice. 

Fried Shad-Roes, Tomato Sauce. — Take the hard roes of 
four large shad ; season with salt and pepper ; roll in flour, immerse in 
beaten eggs, roll again in fresh white bread-crumbs, and fry. slightly 
brown on both sides in a large frying-pan with enough fat to cover ; 
drain on a cloth, dish up on a folded napkin, surround with fried pars- 
ley and quartered lemons, and serve with tomato sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Fried Potatoes, French Style. — Peel some large, mealy pota- 
toes ; slit in two, and cut lengthwise in slices a quarter of an inch thick ; 
wash, wipe on a cloth, and fry in plenty of moderately hot fat until all 
the slices rise to the surface ; stir with a skimmer until crisp and slightly 
brown, and drain in a colander ; melt an ounce of butter in a sautoir, 
put the potatoes in, toss them, turn on a dish, and serve immediately. 

Veal Chops ^ la Demi-Glaze. — Select eight medium-sized white 
and fat veal chops ; pare and flatten slightly ; season with salt, pepper, 
and nutmeg ; place in a sautoir with four ounces of melted butter, fry 
slightly brown on both sides, drain the butter ofl^, moisten with a glass 



COOKERY BOOK, 207 

of sherry wine, two ladlefuls of broth, and a pint of espagnole sauce ; 
cover and let simmer gently for twenty minutes ; dish up in a circle, 
alternate with heart-shaped slices of bread fried in butter ; reduce the 
sauce, strain into the centre of the dish, put paper ruffles on the bones, 
and serve. 

Green Peas with Ham. — Cut six ounces of raw ham in 
small squares ; parboil five minutes, drain, put in a saucepan with two 
ounces of butter ; fry slightly brown, besprinkle with half an ounce of 
flour, fry three minutes longer ; add three pints of small, fresh-shelled 
green peas, sprays of parsley and two green onions tied together, a 
little salt and pepper ; stir to a boil ; cover, and cook slowly for half an 
hour ; remove the parsley and onions, skim off the fat, taste, and serve. 

Fillets of Beef a la Mirabeau. — Flatten four good-sized ten- 
derloin steaks, pare nicely, season, baste with oil, and broil rare ; range 
in a dish ; pour a mirabeau sauce over, and serve. 

Mirabeau Sauce. — Boil thoroughly four large cloves of garlic ; 
drain, press through a sieve with two ounces of butter ; mix with two 
ladlefuls of reduced veloute sauce, chopped parsley, the juice of a 
lemon, and a tablespoonful of beef-extract. 

Potato and Fine Herb Salad. — Prepare a potato salad [No. 
132], with the addition of finely chopped parsley, chives, and tarragon. 

Omelet with Kirschwasser.— Break into and beat ten eggs in 
a kitchen vessel with two ounces of sugar and a glass of kirsch ; melt 
four ounces of butter in an omelet-pan ; add the eggs ; stir, cook, roll 
the omelet ; turn into a dish, besprinkle with powdered sugar, and 
glaze with a red-hot iron ; dilute four tablespoonfuls of hot peach mar- 
malade with two glasses of kirsch ; pour round the omelet, and serve. 



No. 123. 

Thursday, May 3. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Chicken-broth i la Choiseuil. 

Boiled mackerel, caper sauce ; 
Potatoes k la HoUandaise. 



Sweet breads a 1' Italienne ; 
Green peas with small onions. 

Salmi of plover ; 
String-bean salad. 

Strawberries with cream. 

Chicken-Broth ^ la Choiseuil. — Roast slowly and well a large 
tender chicken ; pick off all the meat and put the bones and parings in 



2o8 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

the broth ; pound the meat to a pulp ; add a little salt, white pepper, 
and nutmeg ; dilute with two eggs, twelve egg-yolks, and a pint of 
strong chicken-broth ; press forcibly through a very fine sieve ; fill 
eight small well-buttered timbale-moulds and put them into a sautoir 
with boiling water half their height ; cover, let simmer about half an 
hour, and cool in the mould ; at serving-time turn carefully into a soup- 
tureen with a pint of small, green asparagus-tops ; add two quarts of 
chicken-broth [No. 310]; cover and serve. 

Boiled Mackerel, Caper Sauce. — Choose two large, very fresh 
mackerel ; draw by the gills, cleanse thoroughly, make a deep incision 
lengthwise in the back, place on the sheet in a fish-boiler with salted 
water acidulated with white-wine vinegar ; cover with a sheet of paper, 
set to boil and simmer gently for half an hour ; drain, slide upon a 
folded napkin, surround with parsley-leaves, and serve with caper sauce 
in a sauce-bowl. 

Potatoes a la Hollandaise. — [No. 4 ] 

Sweetbreads a 1' Italienne. — Procure four or more large-heart 
sweetbreads ; soak for three hours in cold water ; put on the fire in 
fresh water, and when they are firm and the water nearly boiling drain 
on a cloth ; cut each one horizontally in two, put into a sautoir, the 
cut side underneath, with four ounces of melted butter, salt and pepper ; 
fry slowly and long enough to stiffen the meat ; cool between two tin 
sheets, with a weight on top ; pare nicely, dip in nearly cold veloute or 
bechamel sauce, and cool again ; roll in pulverized crackers, immerse 
in beaten eggs, roll again in fresh white bread-crumbs, smooth with the 
blade of a knife, and fry slightly brown and well on both sides in a 
sautoir with clarified. butter ; drain on a cloth, dish up in a circle, pour 
an Italian sauce [No. 84] in the centre, and serve. 

Green Peas with Small Onions. — Melt in a saucepan three 
ounces of butter with half an ounce of flour ; stir and fry a little ; add 
three pints of small green peas, a bunch of parsley without aromatics, 
a pint of water, and a dozen small white onions ; set to boil ; cover and 
cook half an hour ; remove the parsley, finish with a liaison of three 
egg-yolks, a teaspoonful of sugar, and three ounces of butter in small 
bits ; mix well by slightly tossing the saucepan, pour into a hollow dish, 
and serve. 

Salmi of Plover. — Pick, singe, and draw eight plover ; roast rare, 
then proceed as directed for salmi of snipe [No. 106]. 

String-Bean Salad. — Pick and string the beans ; if too large, 
cut (not break) them in two or three strips, and cook in boiling water 
till tender ; cool thoroughly, drain on a cloth ; put into a salad-bowl 



COOKERY BOOK. 



209 



with chopped chives, chervil, and parsley, salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar ; 
keep on ice, mix at the last moment, and serve. 

Strawberries with Cream. — Pick the berries ; wash if sandy, 
put in a compot-dish ; keep on ice till wanted, and serve with pow- 
dered sugar and cream separately, so that each person may sweeten to 
taste. 



No. 124. 

Friday, May 4. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Fish-broth a la Duclair. 

Baked prawns in shells ; 
Mashed potato sautees. 

Round of beef, German style ; 
Scrambled eggs with mushrooms. 

Lamb chops a la minute ; 
Lettuce salad, Mayonnaise. 

Blanc-manger panache. 

Fish-Broth ^ la Duclair. — Take the fillets of a one-pound pike 
and of a medium-sized eel ; remove the skin, cut the fillets in slices, pare, 
flatten slightly, and range in a buttered sautoir with salt, white and a 
pinch of red pepper ; put the heads, bone, and fish parings in a stewpan 
with salt, pepper-corns, three blades of mace, a sliced onion, and a 
bunch of parsley ; moisten with a quart of white wine, two quarts of 
water, and two quarts of white broth ; boil, cover, and cook an hour ; 
strain, clarify with two egg-whites as you would a jelly, and strain 
through a wet napkin ; moisten the fillets with two ladlefuls of this 
broth, then boil and let simmer ten minutes ; put them in a soup-tureen 
with the crusts of two french rolls cut in small round pieces buttered 
and dried in the oven ; potir the boiling broth over, and serve. 

Baked Prawns in Shells.— Shell a gallon of prawns and put 
them on a plate ; melt two ounces of butter in a saucepan with a chopped 
onion ; fry a little, sprinkle an ounce of flour over, mix well, dilute with 
a pint of milk ; add salt, white and a little red pepper, stir, and boil 
ten miputes ; add the prawns, four egg-yolks, and chopped parsley ; stir 
again till near boiling ; butter eight tin or plated shells, fill them with 
the prawns, besprinkle with white bread-crumbs and a little grated 
parmesan cheese ; put small bits of butter on top, place on a baking- 
sheet and bake of a nice color ; press lemon-juice over ; range on a folded 
napkin, and serve. 

Mashed Potato Sautees.— [No. 301.] 

Round of Beef, German Style. — Procure an eight-pound round 



2 lo FRANCO-AMERICAN 

piece of beef ; put in a braisiere with beef-fat ; fry long enough to 
stiffen the meat and give it a nice color ; drain off the fat ; add salt, 
sliced carrot and onion, a bunch of parsley, a pint of rhine wine, a 
pint of tomato sauce, and a quart of broth ; boil, cover, and cook 
slowly for about three hours ; free the gravy of its fat, strain, and 
boil down to the consistency of a demi-glaze ; pare and dish up the 
beef ; garnish with stewed sour-crout [No. 57] ; surround with large 
olive-shaped potatoes fried in butter ; pour some of the reduced gravy 
over, and serve the rest in a sauce-bowl. 

Scrambled Eggs with Mushrooms. — Pare, wash, and slice a 
pound of fresh mushrooms, put them in a sautoir ; cover, stir the 
sautoir once in a while, and cook ten minutes ; break and beat ten 
or more eggs in a saucepan with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and three 
ounces of butter in small bits ; add the "mushrooms, put on the fire 
and stir steadily with a wooden spoon ; when done enough pour into 
a deep dish, surround with triangular crolitons fried in butter, and 
serve. 

Lamb Chops a la Minute. — Pare eight or more large fat lamb 
chops ; flatten slightly and season with salt and pepper ; melt three 
ounces of butter in a sautoir ; add the chops, fry well and slightly 
brown on both sides ; dish up in a circle alternately with heart-shaped 
slices of bread fried in butter ; drain the fat from the sautoir ; put in 
a little broth and two ladlefuls of espagnole sauce ; boil a little, pour 
in the centre of the dish, and serve. 

Lettuce Salad, Mayonnaise. — [No. 254,] 

Blanc-Manger Panache. — Prepare a pint and a half of blanc- 
manger as directed [No. 330] ; melt four ounces of chocolate in a sauce- 
pan, add four ounces of sugar and a pint and a half of milk ; stir to a 
boil, strain through a sieve, add three fourths of an ounce of melted 
gelatine, mix well, and cool partially ; imbed a three-pint entremet- 
mould in ice ; pour the white preparation into it, let set, then pour 
the prepared chocolate over, and cool thoroughly ; at serving-time 
immerse in tepid water, wipe the mould, invert on a dish, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 211 



No. 125. 

Saturday, May 5. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Spaghetti, a 1' Italienne ; 

Shad-roes, brown-butter sauce ; 
Potatoes a la Bretonne. 

Beef-palates a la Horly ; 
Spinach, English style. 

Roast rack of veal ; 
Lettuce salad. 



Apples h. la Polonaise. 

Spaghetti Soup ^ 1' Italienne.— Put in a saucepan a pint of 
tomato and espagnole sauce in equal parts, a ladleful of broth, a small 
bunch of parsley, a clove of garlic, and a few dried mushrooms ; set to 
boil ; remove to the side, and let simmer half an hour ; then skim, and 
pass through a fine strainer ; meanwhile boil twelve ounces of spaghetti 
in salted water, with a little butter, for fifteen minutes ; drain, and put 
in a saucepan with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and four ounces of butter ; 
mix well, and put in layers in a large bowl, alternating with parmesan 
cheese and the prepared gravy ; finish with cheese ; pour four ounces 
of very hot clarified butter over, and serve with two quarts of rich beef- 
broth separately in a soup-tureen, 

SIiad-Roes, Brown-Butter Sauce.— Procure the hard roes of 
four large shad, and boil slowly in salted and acidulated water for half 
an hour ; drain on a cloth, range on a dish ; add salt, pepper, a little 
vinegar, and a handful of fried parsley on top ; clarify and brown 
slightly four ounces of butter ; pour this over the roes, and serve. 

Potatoes a la Bretonne. — Peel and cut in squares some small, 
cold, boiled potatoes ; put them in a frying-pan with four ounces of 
melted butter, salt, pepper, and two chopped onions ; fry slightly 
brown ; drain the butter off, add a ladleful of thick gravy, a little broth, 
and chopped parsley ; mix well, boil two minutes, and serve. 

Beef-Palates ^ la Horly. — Steep eight white beef-palates ; par- 
boil and cook as directed [No. 62]; drain on a cloth ; pare, and slit in 
two ; spread on one side of each piece some force-meat [No. 294] min- 
gled with fine herbs ; roll, and put on eight silver or plated skewers ; 
immerse in well-reduced allemande sauce, and cool on a dish ; roll in 
fresh bread-crumbs, immerse in beaten eggs, roll in crumbs again, put 
on the wire lining of a large frying-pan, and fry to a nice color; drain, 
dish up on a folded napkin with quartered lemons, and serve with 
tomato sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Spinach, English Style.— Pick and wash enough spinach ; cook 



212 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

uncovered, and, at the last moment, in plenty of salted boiling water ; 
drain thoroughly without cooling ; put into a saucepan with four ounces 
of butter in small bits, salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; mix carefully, and 
serve in a covered vegetable-dish. 

Roast Rack of Veal. — Select a fat-covered rack of veal and part 
of the loin ; cut out the spine, shorten the ribs, and insert a short skewer 
along them ; pare and tie nicely ; put into a sautoir with a little water, 
salt, and small bits of butter ; cover with a buttered paper, and cook in 
a moderately heated oven for an hour and a half, taking care to sprinkle 
frequently with the gravy ; trim and dish up the veal ; skim off the fat, 
add a little more broth in the sautoir, reduce to the consistency of a 
rich gravy, strain over the meat, and serve. 

Lettuce Salad.— [No. 98.] 

Baked Apples a la Polonaise. — Pare and remove the cores 
of a dozen cooking-apples, and cut crosswise in thin slices ; spread 
some marmalade in a baking-dish, range the apples in circles reversedly 
piled upon each other, and alternated with apple or peach marmalade ; 
give the mass the form of a dome ; mask with a few tablespoonfuls of 
syrup ; besprinkle with pulverized macaroons, a teaspoonful of ground 
cinnamon, and powdered sugar ; bake in a moderately heated oven for 
half an hour, and serve in the baking-dish placed on another of the 
same size. 



Xo. 136. 



Sunday, May 6. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Consomme aux quenelles. 

Spanish mackerel with fine herbs ; 
Croquettes of potatoes. 

Fillet of beef i la Royale ; 
Green peas with lettuce. 

Roast spring ducks ; 
Escarole salad. 

Strawberry ice-cream. 

Consomme aux Quenelles. — Prepare a pound of chicken force- 
meat as directed [No. 294], and make about fifty quenelles as follows : 
Fill up a teaspoon with force-meat, smooth with the blade of a knife 
dipped in hot water ; and with another teaspoon also dipped in hot 
water scoop out the quenelle and drop it gently in a buttered sautoir ; 
repeat this till you have the required number, then cover them by 
pouring carefully some slightly salted boiling water into the sautoir ; 
set on the fire, let simmer ten minutes ; drain on a cloth, put into a 



COOKERY BOOK. 213 

soup-tureen with three quarts of boiling-hot chicken-broth [No. 310] ; 
cover and serve. 

Baked Spanish Mackerel with Fine Herbs.— Choose a large 
Spanish mackerel, draw, pare the fins off, wash, wipe dry, and make 
small incisions on both sides ; butter an oval baking-dish, strew 
chopped shallots, parsley, and mushrooms on the bottom ; put the 
mackerel in the dish, strew more chopped shallots, etc.; add salt, pep- 
per, nutmeg, and small bits of butter ; moisten with two glasses of 
white wine and half a pint of white broth ; cover with a buttered 
paper, set to boil, baste occasionally, and cook in a moderate oven for 
half an hour ; drain and thicken the liquid in a small saucepan with a 
tablespoonful of flour kneaded in butter ; pour this over the fish, 
besprinkle with white bread-crumbs, put small bits of butter on top, and 
bake fifteen minutes longer, till slightly browned ; press the juice of a 
lemon over, and serve in the baking-dish. 

Croquettes of Potatoes.— [No. 15.] 

Fillet of Beef a la Royale. — Pare off most of the fat, all the sin- 
ews, and trim nicely a whole tenderloin of beef ; with a larding-needle 
fasten on the surface rows of small square shreds of fat pork ; tie with 
strings, and place in a roasting-pan with sliced carrots, onions, parings 
of pork, and a bunch of parsley with aromatics ; moisten with two ladle- 
fuls from the surface of the stock-pot, cover with a buttered paper, set 
on the fire to simmer a little, baste once in a while, and roast in the 
oven for about fifty minutes ; drain and keep the fillet warm ; add two 
ladlefuls of broth to the pan, boil two minutes ; then strain and free 
the gravy of its fat, reduce to desired consistency with two glasses of 
sherry and a pint each of tomato and of espagnole sauce, and press 
through a napkin ; untie, pare, and dish up the fillet, surround with a 
garnishing of mushrooms, stoned and bleached olives, larded lamb sweet- 
breads, quenelles, and sliced truffles ; glaze the fillet, pour some of the 
sauce round it, and serve the rest in a sauce-bowl. 

Green Peas with Lettuce. — Put three pints of fresh-shelled green 
peas in a saucepan with four ounces of butter, a gill of water, salt, an 
ounce of sugar, and six small white onions ; boil, cover, and cook half an 
hour ; add a tablespoonful of flour kneaded with four ounces of butter ; 
mingle well by tossing the peas in the saucepan, and pour into a deep 
dish ; prepare and cook eight heads of lettuce as directed [No. 119] ; 
drain and range them on top, and serve. 

Roast Spring Ducks. — Select two fat and good-sized spring 
ducks ; singe, draw, pare off the gall, season with salt and pepper, and 
put the liver inside again ; truss nicely, and roast briskly for about 



214 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

forty minutes ; dish up ; add a little gravy to the drippings, strain over 
the ducks ; add a handful of water-cress, and serve with a bowl of 
apple sauce. 

Escarole Salad. — [No. 103.] 

Strawberry Ice-Cream. — Cut in small pieces and pound fine half 
a vanilla-bean with a pound of sugar ; mix with sufficient ripe straw- 
berries, to make a pint and a half of puree ; press through a fine hair- 
sieve ; mix with a pint and a half of cream, and freeze in the or- 
dinary way ; put in a pyramid-mould, close hermetically, and put in a 
pail of salted ice for at least two hours before serving. 



No. 127. 

Monday May 7. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Puree of cucumbers. 

Dame of sturgeon, au court-bouillon; 
Potatoes a la Hanovrienne. 



Roast calf's liver ; 
Stewed macaroni, tomato sauce. 

Breast of lamb a la Villeroi ; 
Bermuda onion and beet salad. 



Pineapple fritters. 

Puree of Cucumbers. — Pare off six or eight cucumbers, accord- 
ing to size ; cut in slices and parboil five minutes ; cool, and drain 
well ; melt in a saucepan four ounces of butter, add the cucumbers, 
salt, white pepper, and nutmeg ; set to boil, cover, and let simmer in a 
moderate oven for an hour ; sprinkle four ounces of flour over ; mix 
well, dilute with two quarts of boiling milk and a quart of veal broth ; 
stir steadily, and boil ten minutes ; press through a fine sieve, return 
the puree to the stewpan, stir, and heat till near boiling ; add two 
ounces of butter in small bits, a little sugar, and half a pint of cream ; 
pour into a soup-tureen over small squares of bread fried white in 
clarified butter, and serve. 

Darne of Sturgeon, au Court-Bouillon. — Procure a middle- 
cut of sturgeon weighing about five pounds ; remove the skin and 
cleanse thoroughly ; tie with strings, put in a saucepan with salt, 
mignonette pepper, sliced carrots and onions, a bunch of parsley, three 
blades of mace, and three cloves of garlic ; moisten with red wine and 
light broth in equal parts, and nearly enough to cover the fish ; cover 
the saucepan, boil, and let simmer an hour; drain, and keep' warm ; 
strain, and thicken some of the liquid with an ounce and a half of 



COOKERY BOOK. 215 

flour. cooked in butter; boil fifteen minutes, add a tablespoonful of 
essence of anchovies, three ounces of butter, the juice of a lemon, and 
a pinch of red pepper, and press through a napkin ; untie and dish up 
the fish, pour some of the sauce over, surround with eight large cooked 
crayfish, and serve v/ith the rest of the sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Potatoes a la Hanovrienne. — [No. 325.] 

Roast Calf's Liver. — Choose a large calf's liver of light-pink 
color ; with a larding-needle fasten inside long shreds of fat pork sea- 
soned with salt, pepper, ground allspice, chopped parsley, and a little 
garlic ; wrap the liver in leaf-lard, then in buttered paper ; put on the 
spit, fasten with skewers tied at both ends, and roast before a moderate 
fire or in the oven for about an hour ; unwrap and glaze the liver of a 
nice color by basting the surface with melted beef-extract ; add a little 
broth to the drippings, strain, and skim off the fat ; reduce with a 
ladleful of espagnole sauce, add juice of a lemon, and press through a 
napkin ; dish up the liver, pour the sauce round it, and serve. 

Stewed Macaroni, Tomato Sauce. — Cook and prepare a 
pound of macaroni as directed [No. 364] ; dish up in a vegetable- 
dish ; pour well-reduced tomato sauce over, surround with heart- 
shaped crotitons, and serve. 

Breast of Lamb i. la Villeroi. — Boil two breasts of lamb in 
light white broth, with salt, a sliced carrot and onion, and a few aro- 
matics, for about fifty minutes ; drain, remove the bones, press and cool 
between two tin sheets with a weight on top ; cut each breast in four 
or more pieces, pare nicely, season with salt and pepper, insert a small 
bone in each, dip in allemande sauce, and cool again on a slightly oiled 
tin dish ; roll in fresh white bread-crumbs, immerse in beaten eggs, and 
roll in the crumbs again ; smooth the surface, and fry of a nice color , 
dish up in a circle, fill the centre with fried parsley, ornament the bones 
with small white-paper ruffles, and serve with a piquante sauce in a 
sauce-bowl. 

Bermuda Onion and Beet Salad. — Use bermuda onion, and 
proceed as directed [No. 88]. 

Pineapple Fritters. — Pare off and cut two small ripe pine- 
apples in slices ; put in an earthen vessel with powdered sugar and two 
glasses of cognac to steep an hour ; drain, roll in pulverized sponge- 
cake or lady-fingers ; immerse in a flour batter [No. 5], and fry to a 
nice color in plenty of hot fat ; drain on a cloth, besprinkle with 
powdered sugar, glaze of a bright color with a red-hot iron ; range on 
a folded napkin, and serve very hot. 



2i6 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 128. 

Tuesday, May 8. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Lamb-brotli a la Reine. 

Coquilles of clams ; ♦ 

Potatoes a la Colbert. 

Chickens a 1' ivoire ; 
Green peas a la Parisienne. 

Beefsteaks a la Bardoux ; 
Tomato salad. 



Peach tart meringued. 

Lamb-Broth d la Reine. — Put in a stewpan three pounds of 
cut-up scrag of lamb with four quarts of water and a little salt ; boil, 
scum ; add a sliced carrot, an onion with two cloves in it, a turnip, a 
few pepper-corns, two leeks, a stalk or a few leaves of celery, and a 
pint more of cold water ; boil and scum again ; cover, and let siminer 
two hours ; meanwhile roast slowly until thoroughly done a shoulder of 
lamb, remove the bones, pare and cut the meat in small slices ; put 
into a soup-tureen and keep warm ; add the bones and parings to the 
broth, boil half an hour longer, skim off all the fat, and strain through 
a wet napkin ; add a pint of boiled rice to the lamb in the tureen, pour 
the boiling broth over, cover, and serve. 

Coquilles of Clams. — Drain off most of the liquor, and cook 
about two quarts of opened clams with a pint of white broth, two 
ounces of butter, ground mace, and a little white and red pepper ; 
when done, drain in a colander previously set over another saucepan ; 
drain well and slice the clams ; melt an ounce of butter with an ounce 
of flour, dilute with a pint of the liquid ; stir and boil five minutes ; 
thicken with a liaison of four egg-yolks, and mix with the clams ; have 
eight or more buttered large scallop or metal shells, fill them with the 
prepared clams, smooth the surface, besprinkle with pulverized 
crackers, add small bits of butter on each ; put on a baking-sheet and 
bake slightly brown in a pretty hot oven ; press the juice of a lemon 
over, and serve on a folded napkin. 

Potatoes a la Colbert. — [No. 285.] 

Chickens a 1' Ivoire. — Singe, draw, put a piece of butter inside, 
and truss nicely two large, tender chickens ; put slices of pared lemon 
on the breast ; cover with bardes of lard and white paper, and tie up 
with strings ; put in a stev/pan with an onion with two cloves in it, and 
boiling white broth enough to cover ; set to boil, cover, and cook 
about forty minutes ; free the broth of its fat, strain through a silk 
sieve, and make 9, supreme sauce as follows : 



COOKERY BOOK. 217 

Supreme Sauce. — Melt in a very clean saucepan an ounce and a 
half of butter, with the same of flour ; stir and fry a little ; dilute with 
a quart of the chicken-broth ; boil fifteen minutes ; skim, add two 
ounces of table butter, lemon-juice, and a cup of boiled cream ; mix 
well, boil no longer, and press through a napkin ; drain, remove the 
lard, etc., and dish up the chickens ; pour the sauce over, surround 
with heart-shaped hot slices of red corned beef-tongue, to make the 
whiteness of the sauce more apparent, and serve. 

Green Peas a la Parisienne.— Cook three pints of green peas 
as directed [No. 126], and serve, omitting the lettuce. 

Beefsteaks a la Bardoux. — Procure four sirloin or tenderloin 
steaks weighing about twelve ounces each ; pare and flatten pretty 
well ; strew on the table some fine fresh bread-crumbs mixed with a 
fourth of finely chopped beef-marrow, a little salt, pepper, and chopped 
parsley ; baste the steaks with melted butter ; roll in the prepared 
crumbs, beat the steaks all over with the blunt side of a knife so as to 
make the bread and seasoning cling to the meat ; broil briskly and 
rather rare over a clear charcoal fire ; range them on a dish, pour some 
partly melted maitre d' hotel sauce over, and serve immediately. 

Tomato Salad.— [No. 186.] 

Peach Tart Meringued. — Line a ten-inch-wide pastry-ring with 
tart-paste [No. 181] ; fill it partially with peach marmalade ; bake and 
let cool ; mask it all over with an inch-thick of meringue [No. 337], 
and ornament with more meringue put in_a paper funnel as directed in 
the same number ; besprinkle with powdered sugar, and bake light 
brown in a slow oven for twenty minutes ; drop some stirred currant 
jelly between the ornaments, and serve cold. 



No. 129. 

Wednesday, May 9. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup ; Cabbage a la Rouennaise. 

Baked shad-roes ; 
Mashed potatoes. 

Stewed beef a la Hongroise ; 
String-beans sautes. 

Lamb chops with cucumbers ; 
Asparagus salad. 

Compote of pineapple. 

Cabbage i. la Rouennaise. — Prepare three quarts of beef-broth 
[No. 263], with a piece of cabbage cooked in it , pare off the greenest 



2 1 8 FRA NCO-A ME RICA N 

leaves, remove the cores and slice fine two green cabbages ; put them 
in a stewpan with four ounces of butter, stir, and fry slowly until the 
moisture is evaporated ; drain the butter, moisten with three quarts of 
beef-broth, set to boil, cover and cook slowly for an hour and a half ; 
put thin slices of french bread, previously dried in the oven, into a 
soup-tureen, pour the soup over, cover, and serve. 

Baked Shad-Roes. — Pare the hard roes of four large shad ; 
strew chopped onion, parsley, and mushrooms in a baking-dish, add 
the roes, strew more onion, etc., over, with salt, pepper, nutmeg and 
small bits of butter ; moisten with a little white broth and two glasses 
of white wine ; boil, baste occasionally, and cook in the oven for twenty 
minutes ; drain, and thicken the liquid with a tablespoonful of flour 
kneaded in butter ; pour this over the roes, besprinkle with fine bread- 
crumbs ; put small bits of butter on top, and bake in a brisk oven for 
ten minutes longer ; press lemon-juice over, and serve in the baking- 
dish. 

Mashed Potatoes.— [No. 115.] 

SteWed Beef a la Hongroise. — Procure four pounds of sirloin 
of beef, cut in eight or more slices ; flatten slightly, pare off the super- 
fluous fat, and season with salt and pepper ; then range in a sautoir 
with four ounces of melted butter, fry briskly, and slightly brown on 
both sides ; add four tablespoonfuls of chopped onion and fry a few 
minutes longer ; moisten with a pint of thickened brown gravy, a pint 
of broth, and half a pint of tomato sauce ; add a bunch of parsley with 
a sprig of thyme and two bay-leaves ; cover, and let simmer slowly for 
two hours ; remove the parsley and skim off the fat, reduce the sauce 
to a thick consistency, pour it over the meat, and serve with fresh-grated 
horseradish separately on a plate. 

String-Beans Sautes.— [No. 288.] 

Lamb Chops with Cucumbers. — Pare and flatten slightly eight 
fat lamb chops ; put in a sautoir with two ounces of melted butter, 
salt and pepper ; fry briskly and well, drain off the fat and put a little 
espagnole sauce in the sautoir ; have four medium-sized cucumbers, cut 
in quarters, peel, and pare off the seeds ; cut in inch-and-a-half lengths, 
parboil in salted water, drain on a cloth, fry slightly brown with but- 
ter and a little sugar ; drain, put into a saucepan with a pint of espagn- 
ole sauce ; cover, and boil slowly for ten minutes ; drain and dish up 
the chops, and alternate with fried, heart-shaped croutons ; put the 
stewed cucumbers into the sautoir, boil a minute, see if the sauce is 
reduced to the desired consistency ; pour the whole in the centre of 
the dish, ornament the chop-bones with small white-paper ruffles, and 
serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 219 

Asparagus Salad. — [No. 106.] 

Compote of Pineapple. — Pare off, cut in two, and slice a large 
pineapple, put in a copper basin with a quart of syrup at twenty de- 
grees (pese-syrop) ; set to boil, and let simmer slowly for an hour ; 
turn the whole into an earthen vessel, cover, and keep in a warm place 
for six hours ; drain the slices of pineapple on a sieve or on a tinned- 
wire grate ; strain and boil down the syrup to thirty degrees ; range 
the pineapple in a compot-dish, pour the reduced syrup over, and 
serve cold. . 



No. 130. 



Thursday, May 10. — Bill of fare for eight persons 

Soup : Green pea a la printaniere. 

Fresh mackerel a la maitre d' hotel ; 
Boiled Bermuda potatoes. 

Frlcandeau of veal a la Regence ; 
* Stuffed tomatoes. 

Fried chicken a la Florentine ; 
Vegetable salad. 



Cream fritters with bitter almonds. 

Green Pea ^ la Printanidre. — Boil and cook thoroughly two 
quarts of large green peas in two quarts of water, with salt, a bunch of 
parsley, a green onion, and an ounce of butter ; drain, and reserve 
the liquid ; remove the parsley and onion ; pound the peas to a pulp, dilute 
with the liquid and about a quart of clear white broth ; press through 
a fine sieve, return to the stewpan, stir and boil ten minutes ; skim off 
the white froth that rises to the surface, add some asparagus-tops and 
string-beans cut in short pieces, a handful of finely cut sorrel, a little 
chopped chervil, a litde sugar, and three ounces of butter ; mix well, 
and serve. 

Fresh Mackerel ^ la Maitre d' Hotel. — Procure two very 
large mackerel ; cut off the fins and the heads to the eyes, draw by 
the gills, leave the roes in, slit down the back, remove the spine and 
clean well ; season with salt and pepper ; baste with oil, place on a 
heated double gridiron, and broil nicely over a charcoal fire ; slide 
upon a dish, fold in the fish a mellow maitre d' hotel sauce, with the 
addition of a teaspoonful of chopped chives in each, and serve with 
quartered lemons on a plate. 

Boiled Bermnda Potatoes. — [No. 103.] 

Fricandeau of Veal a la Regence. — Pare slightly a fat noix of 
veal ; leave the udder on, and fasten small shreds of fat pork on the 



220 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

pared part ; line the bottom of a wide saucepan with sliced carrots and 
onions, fat pork, veal parings, and aromatics ; add the veal, moisten 
with a quart of white broth ; place a buttered paper over ; boil, cover, 
and cook in a moderate oven for three hours, taking care to baste the 
veal frequently with the liquid, so as to glaze the larded surface of a 
bright, light-brown color ; drain the veal ; strain, and free the gravy 
of its fat ; add two glasses of sherry, and a ladleful of espagnole sauce, 
reduce to the consistency of a demi-glaze, and press through a napkin ; 
dish up the veal, surround with groups of veal quenelles, colloped 
sweetbreads, heads of mushrooms, and sliced truffles ; pour the sauce 
over the garnishing, and serve. 

Stuffed Tomatoes. — [No. 309.] 

Fried Chicken a la Florentine. — Choose two good-sized tender 
chickens ; singe, draw, and cut in pieces ; parboil and cook as directed 
for fricassee [No 259], omitting the garnishing ; drain on a sieve, reduce 
the sauce until pretty thick ; add a liaison of four egg-yolks, stir to a 
boil, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and press through a napkin ; pare 
the pieces of chicken, dip them in the sauce, and range them on a slight- 
ly oiled tin pan to set ; then roll in bread-crumbs, immerse in beaten eggs, 
and roll again in crumbs, mixed with a third of grated parmesan cheese; 
smooth nicely, place on the wire-lining of a frying-pan ; immerse.and 
and fry at once in plenty of very hot oil or fat ; drain, dish up on a 
folded napkin, with fried parsley and quartered lemons, and serve with 
a duxelles sauce, in a sauce-bowl. 

Vegetable Salad.— [No. 167.] 

Cream Fritters with Bitter Almonds. — Mingle in a saucepan 
six eggs with a pound of flour, dilute gradually with' a quart of boiling 
milk ; set on the fire, stir steadily with a wooden spoon, and boil twenty 
minutes ; add an ounce of bitter almonds, scalded and pounded to a 
pulp, four ounces of powdered sugar, an ounce of butter, and four egg- 
yolks ; stir a few minutes longer, spread half an inch thick, and cool 
on a slightly buttered tin-sheet ; turn out on a floured table, divide in 
oblong or lozenge-shaped pieces ; dip in beaten eggs, roll in bread- 
crumbs, and fry of a nice color ; drain on a cloth, besprinkle with 
powdered sugar, range on a folded napkin, and sejrve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 221 



No. 131. 

Friday, May 11. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Mussel. 

Baked cod a la New Bedford f 
Saratoga potatoes. 

Rump of beef a la Windsor ; 
String-beans a la Bretonne. 



Buisson of crayfish ; 
Beet and cucumber salad. 

Gelee aux fraises. 

Mussel Soup. — Scrape, remove the hairy tuft, wash thoroughly, 
and cook [No. 118] enough mussels to fill a quart measure and yield 
three pints of liquor ; melt in a saucepan two ounces of butter with two 
tablespoonfuls of chopped shallots ; fry a little, add two ounces of 
sifted flour, and fry two minutes longer ; dilute with the liquor, a pint 
of white broth, and two glasses of white wine, season with a little salt, 
white and red pepper, and ground mace, stir to boiling, and boil twenty 
minutes ; pass through a fine strainer, add the mussels, boil a minute ; 
finish with two ounces of butter in small bits, and a tablespoonful of 
chopped parsley ; pour into a soup-tureen, and serve with butter- 
crackers on a plate. 

Baked Cod k la New Bedford. — Procure a good-sized cod ; 
scrape, cut off the head and fins, draw, wash, split down the belly, re- 
move the spine from the thick part only, make small lengthwise inci- 
sions in the skin, to prevent the fish from curling while cooking ; put it 
into a dish with salt, pepper, Worcestershire sauce, and sweet oil, and 
let marinate for two hours ; drain, baste with melted butter, besprinkle 
with bread-crumbs ; put the fish into a baking-dish, the inside upper- 
most, moisten with two glasses of catawba wine and a pint of mussel 
or oyster liquor ; set on a slow fire to boil, cover with a buttered paper, 
and bake of a light-brown color in a moderate oven for forty minutes ; 
drain, and thicken the liquid with a little flour kneaded with butter ; add 
lemon-juice and chopped parsley ; pour this around the fish, ajid serve. 

Saratoga Potatoes. — [No. 320.] 

Rump of Beef a la Windsor. — Have a rump piece of beef weigh- 
ing about ten pounds ; with a large larding-needle fasten long squares 
of raw ham and fat pork inside, tie in a nice shape, and cook for three 
hours as directed [No. 345], with sliced vegetables and aromatics ; 
skim off the fat, strain, and reduce the gravy to the desired consistency ; 
pare and dish up the beef, surround with alternate groups of large, 
tender green peas, cooked beets, scooped the size of a large olive, and 



222 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

small round potatoes fried slightly brown in clarified butter ; pour some 
reduced gravy over the beef, and send to table with the rest in a sauce- 
bowl. 

String-Beans ^ la Bretonne. — Cook some string-beans as di- 
rected [No. 120], cool and drain on a cloth ; melt in a saucepan two 
ounces of butter with two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion ; fry slight- 
ly brown ; add two ladlefuls of espagnole sauce, a little broth, salt and 
pepper, then the beans, cover, and heat well ; finish with chopped 
parsley, four ounces of butter in small bits, and the juice of a lemon ; 
mix well by tossing the beans in the saucepan, and serve. 

Buisson of Crayfish. — Prepare and cook three dozen large cray- 
fish as directed [No. loi] ; let cool in their broth, drain on a cloth, and 
dish in pyramidal form with parsley-leaves (to obtain that form put 
a champagne glass on a folded napkin on a round dish) ; pile rows of 
crayfish mingled with parsley round the glass ; hang six large fish by 
the extreme fins round the edge of the glass, truss the largest bird-like 
and put it on top. 

Beet and Cucumber Salad. — [No. 131.] 

Gelee aux Fraises. — Pick and put a pound of small very ripe 
strawberries into an earthen vessel ; boil a pint and a half of syrup at 
thirty degrees ; cool a little, pour it over the strawberries, cover, and 
let steep an hour ; clarify an ounce and a half of gelatine with a pint 
and a half of water, the juice of a lemon, and two egg-whites [No. 2] ; 
strain the strawberry-syrup through a jelly-bag, mix with the clarified 
gelatine ; fill a jelly-mould, cool thoroughly, immerse in tepid water, 
invert on a folded napkin, and serve. 



No. 133. 

Saturday May 12. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Cream of rice 4 la princesse. 

Fillets of mackerel a 1' Indienne ; 
Boiled rice. 



Calfs brain in matelote ; 
Timbale of macaroni. 

Chickens a la Chivry ; 
Potato salad. 



Eggs glazed a 1' orange. 

Cream of Rice ^ la Princesse. — Wash and parboil a pound of 
rice ; drain, and cook thoroughly with two quarts of clear veal or 
chicken-broth ; press forcibly through a very fine sieve ; dilute to the 



COOKERY BOOK. 223 

desired consistency with more broth if necessary, return to the stew- 
pan, stir to boiling, skim, season to taste ; add a little sugar, a pint of 
boiling cream, and two ounces of butter ; mix well, pour into a soup- 
tureen with a pint of small green asparagus-tops, and serve. 

Fillets of Mackerel a 1' Indienne. — Take the fillets of two large 
fresh mackerel ; cut in two, remove the skin, pare, and flatten slightly ; 
put in a sautoir with two ounces of melted butter, two tablespoonfuls 
of curry paste or powder diluted with two glasses of white wine, a little 
salt, and mignonette pepper ; cover, boil, and let simmer fifteen min- 
utes ; drain, and dish up the fillets in a row, one overlying the other ; 
put a pint of white sauce in the sautoir, stir, and boil a minute ; add 
the juice of a lemon and two ounces of butter ; press through a fine 
strainer ; pour the sauce over the fillets, and serve with plain boiled 
rice in a separate dish. 

Boiled Rice. — [No. 169.] 

Calf's Brain in Matelote. — Remove the arteries and steep four 
calves' brains in cold water for several hours, changing the water fre- 
quently ; put in a stewpan with a gill of vinegar, salted boiling water 
enough to cover, a bunch of parsley with aromatics, and a sliced onion ; 
set to boil, cover, and let simmer forty minutes ; drain on a cloth ; 
part each brain in two, dish up in a circle, alternating the lobes with 
semicircular slices of bread fried in butter ; fill the centre with stewed 
mushrooms and small glazed onions ; pour a genevoise sauce [No. 
275] over all, surround with eight large cooked crayfish, and serve. 

Timbale of Macaroni. — [No. 104.] 

Chickens a la Chivry. — Singe, draw, and truss nicely two large 
tender chickens ; put in a stewpan and cook in the usual way with 
white broth, sliced vegetables, and aromatics ; pare and cut in rings, a 
third of an inch thick, some bermuda onions ; parboil, and drain on a 
sieve ; fill these with chopped chives, chervil, and tarragon slightly 
boiled and pressed ; drain, untie, and dish up the chickens ; range the 
filled rings of onions on the breast, pour round the dish a ravigote 
sauce [No. 256] made with the strained chicken-broth, and serve. 

Potato Salad. — Pare off and slice fine some small, cold boiled 
potatoes ; range in a salad-bowl ; besprinkle with chopped chives, cher- 
vil, and parsley ; season with salt and pepper, oil, and tarragon vine- 
gar ; mix carefully, and serve very cold. 

Eggs Glazed a 1' Orange. — Mix in a saucepan six eggs with 
half a pound of sugar and the rinds of two oranges chopped fine ; 
dilute with three pints of boiled milk ; pass through a fine strainer into 
a hollow round custard baking-dish ; boil some water in a saucepan a 



224 PR A NCO-A ME RICA N 

little narrower than the dish, place the dish on the saucepan ; put some 
live embers on a sheet-iron cover ; cover the dish, and cook over the 
simmering water for about half an hour ; when the eggs are well set, 
cool, besprinkle with powdered sugar, and glaze of a bright-brown color 
by passing carefully a small, very hot flat-iron over the surface ; clean 
the edge of the dish, and serve. 



No. 133. 

Sunday, May 13. — Bill of fare for eight persons: 

Soup : Consomme a la Careme. 

Brook-trout a la Vatel ; 
Potato croquettes a la Bechamel. 

Fillet of beef a la Claremont ; 
Asparagus, sauce HoUandaise, 

Ham and chicken pie ; 
Lettuce salad with chervil. 



Mousse aux f raises.. 

Consomme ^ la Careme. — Put in a well-tinned copper soup- 
boiler a roasted fowl, two pounds of lean veal, some roast-beef bones 
(if convenient), and two pounds of soup-beef, with two gallons of water 
and two tablespoonfuls of salt ; boil slowly, scum well ; add a carrot, a 
turnip, two leeks, an onion, half a parsnip, and a few pepper-corns ; 
cover, and let simmer for four hours ; then remove all the fat and 
strain through a wet napkin (this broth ought to be very transparent, 
succulent, and of a rich, yellow color); with a third-of-an-inch tin tube 
cut round pieces of carrot and turnip in thin slices, add a leek sliced 
crosswise ; parboil, drain, and then boil an hour with three quarts of 
the prepared broth ; add a finely sliced small heart of lettuce, sorrel, 
and chervil leaves ; boil ten minutes longer ; finish with a little sugar 
and three tablespoonfuls of small green asparagus-tops ; pour into a 
soup-tureen with the crusts of two french rolls cut in small rounds and 
dried in the oven ; cover, and serve. 

Brook-Trout a la Vatel. — Scale two or more large brook-trout, 
draw by the gills, cleanse thoroughly, wipe dry, make slight crosswise 
incisions on both sides, and put in a dish with salt, mignonett.e pepper, 
sprigs of thyme and parsley, two bay-leaves, a sliced onion, lemon- 
juice, and half a gill of sweet oil ; let marinate for three hours ; drain 
put in a baking-dish with two glasses of white wine and the strained 
marinade ; boil, cover with buttered paper, then cook in the oven for 
half an hour, basting the fish frequently with the liquid ; drain the 



COOKERY BOOK. 225 

trout ; add a little white broth, and thicken the liquid with an ounce of 
flour cooked in butter ; boil ten minutes ; add four ounces of table 
butter, a pinch of red pepper, and a tablespoonful of anchovy essence ; 
mix, and press through a napkin ; dish up the trout, garnish with two 
dozen shelled crayfish or prawn-tails, heads of mushrooms, and mus- 
sels ; pour the sauce over, besprinkle with chopped parsley, and serve. 

Potato Croquettes [No. 15] a la Bechamel. — [No. 270.] 

Fillet of Beef a la Claremont. — Pare off the superfluous fat 
and remove the sinews of a whole tenderloin of beef ; with a larding- 
needle fasten on the surface alternate rows of fine two-inch-long shreds 
of red beef-tongue and fat pork ; tie with strings, put on the drainer 
in a deep, oblong braisiere with sliced vegetables and aromatics ; mois- 
ten with a gill of sherry wine and a pint of beef-broth ; boil, cover, put 
into the oven, and cook slowly for two hours, moistening frequently 
with the gravy ; drain, and keep the fillet warm ; strain, and free the 
gravy of its fat, reduce with a pint of espagnole and a ladleful of tomato 
sauce, and press through a napkin ; pare, and dish up the fillet, sur- 
round with groups of medium-sized stuffed onions, cucumbers, and 
tomatoes ; pour part of the sauce round the dish, and serve the rest in 
a sauce-bowl. 

Asparagus, Sauce Hollandaise. — [No. 98.] 

Ham and Chicken Pie. — Bone two spring chickens ; season and 
fill them with raw force-meat [see boned-turkey, No. 362] and squares 
of ham and fat pork ; butter and place an oval french pie-mould on a 
buttered baking-sheet; line it with pie-paste [No. 22] ; put in a layer 
of force-meat and slices of boiled ham, then the chickens, and another 
layer of ham and meat ; finish with thin bardes of lard and two bay- 
leaves ; wet the edge, cover with paste, cut evenly and trim the edge 
with a paste-pincher ; egg the surface, put a small flat of feuilletage 
paste on top, and egg again ; cut a few incisions in the paste, and an 
inch-wide hole in the centre ; bake in a moderate oven for two hours ; 
cool partially, fill with meat jelly ; cool thoroughly, remove the mould, 
and serve. 

Lettuce Salad, with Chervil. — Add chopped chervil to a let- 
tuce' salad [No. 98]. 

Mousse aux Praises (Strawberries). — Press through a sieve 
enough ripe strawberries to make a pint of pulp ; mix in an earthen 
vessel with half a pound of powdered sugar, flavored with half a 
vanilla-bean, and stir on ice until very cold ; then mix again with a 
quart of whipped cream [No. 77] ; put this in a mould, cover hermeti- 
cally, close the crevices with a little butter to prevent the salt from get- 



226 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

ting inside, and imbed in a pail of salted ice for at least two hours; at 
serving-time immerse in cold water, remove the cover, invert on a folded 
napkin, and serve. 



No. 134. 

Monday, May 14. — Bill of fare for eight persons; 
Soup : Cucumber and green pea. 

Roast sturgeon, sauce vert-pre ; 
Potatoes a la Colbert. 



Pricassee of chicken a la St. Lambert ; 
Fresh mushrooms a la Provenjale. 

Shoulder of lamb a la Chevet ; 
Salad a la Grimod. 



Souffle of potatoes. 

Cucumber and Green Pea. — Peel, cut in quarters, and pare off 
the seeds of three cucumbers ; parboil in salted water, and drain well ; 
melt two ounces of butter in a saucepan, add the cucumbers and a 
little powdered sugar ; fry briskly and slightly brown ; drain the but- 
ter off, moisten with a quart of beef-broth, and boil slowly ior half an 
hour ; skim, add a pint of small, cooked green peas and two quarts of 
boiling beef-broth ; pour into a soup-tureen with dried, thin slices of 
french bread ; cover, and serve. 

Roast Sturgeon, Sauce Vert-Pre. — Skin and pare a middle- 
cut of sturgeon weighing about six pounds ; season with salt and pep- 
per ; put it on the spit, and wrap in a large double sheet of oiled paper, 
with finely sliced carrots and onions, two bay -leaves, sprigs of thyme 
and parsley, the juice of a lemon, and half a gill of sweet oil ; tie up, 
and roast before a moderate fire or in the oven for about an hour ; 
unwrap, remove the vegetables, and dish up the fish ; pour a vert-pre 
sauce [No. 361] over it, and serve. 

Potatoes a la Colbert.— [No. 285.] 

Fricassee of Chicken a la St. Lambert. — Have two tender 
chickens ; cut them in pieces, and make a fricassee as directed [No. 
259] ; dish up in pyramidal form ; surround with groups of small 
stewed and well-drained carrots, turnips, string-beans, and peas ; pour 
the sauce over the chicken, and serve. 

Fresh Mushrooms ^ la Provengale. — Procure about two 
pounds of large, fresh mushrooms ; pare the stalks, and wash them all 
in acidulated water, so as to keep them as white as possible ; drain on 
a cloth ; slice the heads in two or three pieces, and chop up the stalks ; 
heat a gill of sweet oil in a sautoir, add the sliced heads, fry slightly 



COOKERY BOOK. 227 

brown ; then add two tablespoonfuls of chopped shallots, two bruised 
cloves of garlic, and the chopped stalks ; fry again until the moisture 
is nearly evaporated ; drain most of the oil off, moisten with two ladle- 
fuls of tomato sauce and a little melted beef-extract ; season with salt, 
white and a pinch of red pepper ; boil two minutes, mix well by tossing 
the mushrooms in the sautoir ; finish with lemon-juice and chopped 
parsley ; pour into a vegetable-dish, surround with heart-shaped crou- 
tons fried in oil, and serve. 

Shoulders of Lamb ^ la Chevet. — Remove the shoulder-blade 
and saw off the shank-bone of two fat shoulders of spring lamb ; sea- 
son inside, and truss nicely ; pare the surface, and fasten to it fine 
shreds of fat pork ; roast, and glaze of a nice color ; add a little broth 
to the drippings, strain, skim the fat, reduce with two glasses of white 
wine and a ladleful of espagnole sauce ; press through a napkin ; finish 
with a tablespoonful of chopped and blanched shallots, chopped pars- 
ley, two ounces of butter, and lemon-juice ; pare and dish up the 
shoulders ; pour the sauce round them ; put white-paper ruffles on the 
bones, and serve. 

Salad a la Grimod. — [No. loi.] 

Souffle of Potatoes. — Mix in a saucepan six egg-yolks, six 
ounces of potato-starch (fecula), six ounces of powdered sugar, the 
rind of a lemon chopped fine, two ounces of melted butter, and a pint 
of cream ; set on the fire, stir steadily with a wooden spoon, and boil 
five minutes ; cool partially, and add six more egg-yolks ; beat six egg- 
whites to a hard froth, mix carefully with the preparation, pour into a 
slightly buttered sweet-meat baking-dish, cook in a moderately heated 
oven for about twenty-five minutes ; besprinkle with powdered sugar, 
glaze nicely, and serve immediately. 



No. 135. 

Tuesday, May 15. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Cream of barley a la Joinville. 

Croquettes of clams ; 
Saratoga potatoes. 

Grenadins of veal with green peas ; 
Stuffed cucumbers. 

Porterhouse steaks a la Soyer ; 
Salad of water-cress. 

Strawberries k la Maconnaise. 

Cream of Barley a la Joinville.— Put ten- ounces of pearl barley 
in a saucepan with two quarts of good veal or chicken broth ; stir to 



228 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

boiling, cover, and let simmer three hours ; rub forcibly through a very 
fine sieve ; dilute to the desired consistency with fresh cream ; stir and 
boil again ; add two ounces of butter and a little sugar, tint slightly 
with red crayfish butter ; pour into a soup-tureen with colloped lamb 
sweetbreads and four dozen shelled and pared crayfish tails ; cover, 
and serve. 

Crayfish Butter. — Cleanse, wipe dry, and pound very fine the 
crayfish shells ; mix with four ounces of butter ; melt the butter and 
then wring tightly in a coarse cloth over a dish of cold water ; gather 
the butter together and keep on ice till wanted. 

Croquettes of Clams. — Drain well and cook two quarts of opened 
clams with an ounce of butter, a little broth, pepper, and ground mace ; 
drain again in a colander ; reserve the liquid and chop up the clams ; 
fry slightly brown a tablespoonful of chopped shallot in two ounces of 
butter ; add an ounce of sifted flour, mix, and dilute with a pint of the 
reserved liquid ; stir and boil five minutes ; add four egg-yolks, a pinch 
of red pepper, the chopped clams, and some chopped parsley ; stir 
steadily and boil two minutes longer ; press in the juice of a lemon, 
turn on a dish and let cool ; strew pulverized crackers on the table, 
turn the clams over, divide in sixteen oblong pieces, dip in beaten eggs, 
roll in crackers again, and fry of a nice color ; drain on a cloth, dish 
up in a circle, put fried parsley in the centre of the dish, surround with 
quartered lemons, and serve. 

Saratoga Potatoes. — [No. 320.] 

Grenadins of Veal with Green Peas. — Cut eight or more 
slices three inches wide and one inch thick out of a noix of veal ; pare, 
flatten slightly, and fasten fine shreds of fat pork on one side ; range 
in a sautoir .with sliced carrots and onions, the larded side uppermost ; 
moisten with white broth, cover with a buttered paper, and cook in a 
moderate oven for an hour, taking care to baste the larding frequently 
with the gravy and glaze of a bright, slightly brown color ; drain and 
dish the grenadins upon a garnishing of green peas a la Parisienne [No. 
128] ; strain, free the gravy of its fat, and reduce to the consistency of 
a sauce ; pour this over the glazing, and serve. 

Stuffed Cucumbers. — Peel thin and pare off both ends of four 
medium-sized cucumbers ; remove the seeds with a marrow or vegetable 
scoop ; parboil two minutes, drain on a cloth, and fill with cooked 
force-meat [No. 314], mingled with chopped mushrooms and fine 
herbs ; line a saucepan with slices of fat pork ; add the cucumbers, 
salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; put more slices of pork over, moisten with 
white broth, cover, boil, and let simmer half an hour ; drain on a sieve, 



COOKERY BOOK. 



229 



range on a dish, pour a well-reduced espagnole sauce over, and serve. 

Porterhouse Steaks a la Soyer. — Select two good-sized tender 
porterhouse steaks ; pare, flatten with the cleaver, season with salt and 
pepper, baste with melted butter, besprinkle with fresh bread-crumbs 
mingled with chopped chives and parsley, flatten slightly again, and 
broil rather rare over a moderate charcoal fire ; dish up ; mingle two 
tablespoonfuls of beef-extract with a hardly melted maitre d' hotel 
sauce ; pour this over the steaks, and serve with fresh-scraped horse- 
radish on a plate. 

Salad of Water-Cress. — [No. n?^ 

Strawberries a la Maconnaise. — Pick and put enough ripe 
strawberries in a compot-bowl with a bottle of rich red burgundy wine 
and powdered sugar on top ; serve with more sugar in a saucer. Bis- 
cuits of Rheims or small lady-fingers accompanying this dish render it 
more desirable. 



No. 136. 



Wednesday, May 16. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Garbure a la printaniere. 

Mussels a la poulette ; 
Potatoes a 1' Espagnole. 

Breast of lamb a la Marechale ; 
Spinach au veloute. 

Chicken saute a la Lyonnaise ; 
Lettuce and egg salad. 

Gelee fouettee a la Russe. 

Garbure a la Printaniere. — Cut four french rolls, each in two ; 
remove the soft part, range them, the outside uppermost, in a deep 
china or plated baking-bowl ; moisten with four ladlefuls of the strained 
surface of the soup-pot, and bake moderately for half an hour ; drain 
off the fat that may come out, add a quart of beef-broth, and serve 
with two quarts of printaniere soup separately, in a soup-tureen. 

Mussels a la Poulette. — Scrape the shells and cleanse thorough- 
ly a gallon of mussels ; cook, and remove half of the shells as directed 
[No. in] ; melt in a saucepan two ounces of butter, with a table- 
spoonful of chopped and pressed onion ; fry slightly, add an ounce 
of flour ; mix well, dilute with two glasses of white wine and mussel- 
liquor, season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; stir and boil ten min- 
utes ; thicken with four egg-yolks and two ounces of butter, and press 
through a napkin, over the drained mussels that have been kept warm 



230 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

in another saucepan ; finish with a tablespoonful of chopped pars- 
ley ; add a few drops of white-wine vinegar ; mingle carefully by toss- 
ing the mussels in the sauce ; pour into a hollow dish, and serve. 

Potatoes a 1' Espagnole.— [No. 90.] 

Breast of Lamb a la Marechale. — Boil two large breasts of 
lamb in the stock-pot ; drain, remove the bones ; season with salt and 
pepper, and press between two tin sheets until cold ; divide in eight 
heart-shaped pieces, insert a small breast-bone in the small end of each 
piece, immerse in pretty consistent allemande sauce, range on a bread- 
crumbed dish, and cool again ; then dip twice in beaten eggs, and roll 
twice in bread-crumbs ; smooth nicely, range on the wire lining of a 
large frying-pan, plunge in very hot fat, and fry of a nice color ; dish 
up in a circle, fill the centre with a garnishing a la toulouse [No. 343], 
put small paper ruffles on the bones, and serve. 

Spinach au Veloute. — Prepare and cook enough spinach as 
directed [No. 61] ; dilute with white broth, finish with four ounces of 
butter in small bits ; dish up, smooth the surface, surround with tri- 
angular slices of bread fried in butter, and serve. 

Chicken Saut6 a la Lyonnaise. — Singe, draw, and cut two 
chickens as for fricassee ; put in a sautoirwith two ounces each of but- 
ter and sweet oil, some salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; set on a brisk fire, 
cover, and brown slightly on both sides ; drain the chicken on a plate ; 
put two finely sliced onions in the sautoir, fry of a nice color, and 
nearly done ; drain the fat off, return the chicken to the sautoir, moisten 
with a pint of espagnole sauce, a ladleful of tomato sauce (if you 
have no sauce made, besprinkle with an ounce of flour, mingle and 
dilute with good broth), two glasses of white wine, and a little broth ; 
cover, and let the whole simmer for fifteen minutes ; add lemon-juice 
And chopped parsley ; dish up, pour the sauce over, and serve. 

Lettuce and Egg Salad. — [No. 113.] 

Gelee Fouettee a la Russe. — Dilute on the fire an ounce and a 
half of clarified gelatine, with the juice of two lemons, a quart of water, 
and twelve ounces of sugar ; strain through a silk sieve, add half a pint 
of madeira wine, put to cool in a large vessel on ice, and when the jelly 
begins to congeal, whip to a froth with an egg-beater ; pour this into a 
cylinder jelly-mould, previously imbedded in ice, and let set thoroughly ; 
at serving-time immerse in tepid water, wipe the mould, invert. on a 
folded napkin, and serve. 

In hot weather this light jelly has a tendency to sink ; a white-paper 
funnel placed in the cylinder will hold it while being carried to table. 



COOKERY BOOK. 231 

No. 137. 

Thursday, May 17. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Small onion a la Chevreuse. 

Baked salmon, California style ; 
Stewed potatoes. 

Ribs of beef a la Mazarin ; 
Stuffed lettuce. 

Crayfish 4 la Nan^oise ; 
Cucumber salad. 



Strawberry fritters. 

Small Onion ^ la Chevreuse. — Pare off carefully, parboil, and 
drain a quart of very small white onions ; cook in broth, drain again, 
and put into a soup-tureen with a pint of cooked small green peas and 
dried thin slices of french bread ; pour over this two quarts of boiling 
chicken-broth [No. 310], and serve. 

Baked Salmon, California Style. — Put four large salmon steaks 
weighing about a pound each in a buttered sautoir with a pint of white 
California wine, a pint of white broth, salt, pepper, nutmeg, a bunch of 
parsley with aromatics, and two ounces of butter ; boil, cover, and let 
simmer half an hour ; drain the fish, remove the parsley ; thicken the 
liquid with an ounce of flour cooked in butter ; boil ten minutes, then 
mix with four egg-yolks and chopped parsley ; spread a thin layer of 
thick mashed potatoes in an oval buttered baking-dish ; remove the 
spine and the skin of the salmon-steaks and range them, one overlap- 
ping the other, on the potatoes ; fill evenly with more potato ; smooth 
nicely, pour the sauce over all ; besprinkle with bread-crumbs, put 
small bits of butter on top, and bake light brown in a moderate oven 
for twenty minutes ; serve in the baking-dish. 

Stewed Potatoes.— [No. 8i.] 

Ribs of Beef ^ la Mazarin. — Procure a three-rib fleshy piece of 
beef ; saw off the spine, shorten the ribs, tie firmly, and put in a stew- 
pan with some fat, and fry stiff and brown all round ; drain off the fat; 
add sliced carrots and onions, a bunch of parsley inclosing four cloves, 
two cloves of garlic, two bay-leaves, two sprigs of thyme, and two blades 
of mace, salt, and pepper ; moisten with three pints of broth, half a 
pint of sherry wine, and a gill of brandy ; cover, boil, and let simmer 
three hours, adding a little water if required ; strain and free the gravy 
of its fat, and reduce it to the consistency of a demi-glaze with a pint 
of tomato and two ladlefuls of espagnole sauce, then pass through a 
fine strainer ; drain, untie, pare, and dish up the beef ; surround alter- 
nately with large glazed bermuda onions and whole stuffed tomatoes 



232 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

pour some of the sauce over the meat, and serve with some more in a 
sauce-bowl. 

Stuffed Lettuce. — Remove the greenest leaves, pare the stalks, 
and parboil eight or more large lettuce ; cool, press the water out 
gently, season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and cook in a covered 
sautoir with white broth for an hour ; drain on a sieve ; slit open and 
fill inside with force-meat [No. 294], then fold over and roll each let- 
tuce in a thin barde of fat pork ; return to the sautoir, moisten with a 
little broth, cover, and cook slowly for half an hour longer ; remove 
the lard, drain on a cloth, range in a dish, pour a demi-glaze sauce 
over, and serve. 

Crayfish a la Nanyoise. — Cook three dozen large crayfish as 
directed [No. loi] ; cut two ounces of lean raw ham in very small 
squares, put this in a saucepan with an ounce of butter, and fry a little; 
add two ladlefuls of veloute sauce, a handful of small parsley-leaves, 
mignonette and red pepper, and a pint of liquid from the crayfish, boil 
ten minutes ; add the drained crayfish, and boil five minutes longer ; 
ramge in a deep dish, press the juice of a lemon in the sauce, pour over 
the fish, and serve. 

Cucumber Salad. — [No. 77.] 

Strawberry Fritters. — Pick enough large strawberries ; roll 
them in melted, thick peach-marmalade or strawberry-jam, then in 
pulverized macaroons ; dip in sweetened flour-batter [No. 5], and fry 
briskly in plenty of clear hot fat ; drain on a cloth, roll in powdered 
sugar, dish up on a folded napkin, and serve. 



No. 138. 

Friday, May 18. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Fish, h. la Braban9onne. 

Blue-fish, matelote sauce ; 
Mashed and baked potatoes. 

Leg of lamb a 1' Ecossaise ; 
String-beans a 1' Anglaise. 

Veal saute a la Marengo ; 
Tomato salad. 

Pineapple a la Richelieu. 

Fish-Soup a la Brabangonne. — Take the fillets of a small 
bass and of a fresh mackerel ; remove the skin, and cut in collops, 
flatten slightly, pare, and range in a sautoir with salt, pepper, and nut- 
meg ; put in a saucepan the bones, heads, and parings, also a cod's 



COOKERY BOOK. 



233 



head, an ounce of butter, salt, pepper, a bunch of parsley, an onion, 
two leeks, three pints of water, a pint of rhine wine, and two quarts of 
broth ; boil, cover, let simmer an hour, and pass the broth through a 
strainer ; mix in a saucepan two eggs with twelve egg-yolks, dilute 
with a pint of fish-broth ; press through a napkin into a buttered tim- 
bale-mould, and put this in a saucepan with boiling water to half its 
height ; cover, and steam slowly as you would a custard ; cool in the 
mould, turn on a wet napkin, and cut in half-inch squares ; moisten 
the prepared fillets with two ladlefuls of broth, cook ten minutes, and 
put in the soup-tureen with the prepared custard ; add half a pint of 
tomato sauce- and a pinch of red pepper to two quarts of boiling fish- 
broth ; pour in the tureen, and serve. 

Blue-Fish, Matelote Sauce. — Cleanse and put a four-pound 
blue-fish in- a narrow fish-boiler with sliced onion, a bunch of parsley, 
two bruised cloves of garlic, salt, pepper, a little butter, half a pint of 
white wine, and a pint of white broth ; boil, cover, and cook in a mod- 
erate oven for half an hour, taking care to baste the fish frequently 
with the liquid ; drain, and keep the fish warm ; strain and thicken 
the liquid with an ounce of flour cooked in butter ; boil ten minutes ; 
finish with four ounces of butter, a pinch of red pepper, a tablespoon- 
ful of anchovy-essence, and lemon-juice ; mix well, and press through 
a napkin ; dish up the fish, garnish with mussels and small onions, 
pour the sauce over all, and serve. 

Mashed and Baked Potatoes. — [No. 15.] 

Leg of Lamb a 1' Ecossaise. — Pare, shorten the knuckle, and 
boil a large leg of lamb with salt, pepper-corns, a bunch of parsley, 
and enough water ; drain, put on a dish, and surround with a dozen 
small timbales a 1' ecossaise ; make a parsley sauce with the broth, 
pour this over the lamb, and serve. 

Timbales d 1' Ecossaise. — Butter a dozen small plain timbale- 
moulds ; line them with cuts.of plain pancake without sugar [No. 23S] ; 
fill with lamb or chicken force-meat [No. 294] ; cover with small rounds 
of pancake ; put the timbales in a sautoir, cover with a buttered paper, 
and cook in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes. 

String-Beans a 1' Anglaise. — [No. 160.] 

Veal Saute a la Marengo. — Cut about three pounds of noix 
of veal in sixteen or more slices ; put in a sautoir with two ounces of 
butter and a gill of sweet oil, salt, white and red pepper, and nutmeg ; 
put the sautoir on a brisk fire, fry slightly brown on both sides ; drain 
part of the fat off, add a tablespoonful of chopped shallot, a bruised 
clove of garlic, and sliced mushrooms ; fry two minutes longer, moisten 



234 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

with a pint of tomato and espagnole sauce in equal parts, two glasses 
of sherry wine, and a little broth ; cover, and let simmer fifteen min- 
utes ; dish up in pyramid form ; fry separately in very hot sweet oil 
eight eggs slightly brown and soft, drain them on a cloth, place them 
round the veal, and serve. 

Tomato Salad.— [No. i86.] 

Pineapple ^ la Richelieu. — Slice the pineapple, and cook in 
syrup as for compote [No. 129] ; have slices of sponge-cake ; dip them 
lightly in maraschino ; dish up in a circle alternately with the pine- 
apple ; garnish with small preserved or fresh fruits ; reduce the syrup 
with two glasses of maraschino liqueur, pour over all, and serve hot. 



No. 139. 

Saturday, May 19. — Bill of fare for eight persons: 
Soup : Macaroni a la Calabraise, 

Broiled soft-shell crabs ; 
Potatoes a la Proven9ale. 

Racks of mutton a la jardiniere ; 
Croquettes of semoule. 

Chicken saute a la fermiere ; 
Vegetable salad a la Lyonnaise. 

Croutes aux fraises. 

Macaroni ^ la Calabraise. — Take eight ripe tomatoes, press the 
water out, and chop them fine ; melt in a saucepan two ounces of but- 
ter, with a chopped onion and four ounces of finely sliced raw ham ; 
fry slightly brown ; add the tomatoes, a clove of garlic, pepper, and a 
bunch of parsley ; fry a little longer, moisten with half a pint each of 
espagnole sauce and beef-broth ; boil fifteen minutes, and strain with 
pressure through a sieve ; boil half a pound of macaroni in salted 
water for twenty minutes, drain, put in a saucepan with four ounces of 
butter in small bits, pepper, and nutmeg ; mix well, put by layers in a 
large bowl or deep buttered dish, alternating each layer with grated 
parmesan cheese and sauce, finishing with cheese and three ounces of 
very hot, clarified, and nearly browned butter, poured over ; serve 
with two quarts of rich beef-broth separately in a soup-tureen. 

Broiled Soft-Shell Crabs.— Pare off, cleanse, and bread- 
crumb a dozen, more or less according to size, of soft-shell crabs as 
directed [No. 264] ; baste with melted butter, place in a large folding 
double gridiron and broil them of a nice color over a moderate char- 
coal fire for about twelve minutes ; range on a folded napkin, surround 



COOKERY BOOK. 235 

with quartered lemons, and serve with melted (not boiled) butter in a 
sauce-bowl. 

Potatoes a la Proven^ale. — Peel some medium-sized raw pota- 
toes ; slice crosswise, wash, and drain them in a cloth ; put them in a 
large flat frying-pan with a pint of hot sweet oil ; toss them occasion- 
ally until done and of a light brown color ; add two chopped cloves of 
garlic, salt, and pepper ; stir a little, and drain the oil off ; add two 
ounces of butter in small bits, chopped parsley, and the juice of half 
a lemon ; mix again, and serve. 

Racks of Mutton a la Jardiniere. — Select two short, tender, 
and fat-covered racks of mutton ; cut off the spine, shorten the ribs, 
remove the transparent skin from the surface, pare, tie firmly, thrust a 
short skewer along the ribs, and cook as directed for carbonades [No. 
282] ; trim nicely, dish up on a garnishing a la jardiniere [No. 7] ; pour 
the reduced gravy over, and serve. 

Croquettes of Semoule. — [No. 215.] 

Chicken Saute a la Fermiere. — Singe, draw, and cut two ten- 
der chickens in quarters ; crack the main bones, flatten slightly, and 
put in a sautoir with four ounces of melted butter, salt, and pepper ; 
cover, put on a brisk fire, and fry light brown on both sides ; drain 
most of the butter off, besprinkle with an ounce of sifted flour, mix 
well, dilute with a pint and a half of cream ; cover, and boil ten 
minutes ; dish up the chicken ; add two pats of butter and the juice of 
half a lemon to the ■ sauce ; pour this over the chicken, besprinkle with 
chopped parsley, and serve. 

Vegetable Salad ^ la Lyonnaise. — Prepare a macedoine salad 
[No. 291] ; add fillets of anchovies and thin slices of Lyon sausage 
cut in fine shreds, olives, capers,, and beets ; serve with a cold ravigote 
sauce, as directed in the same number. 

Croutes aux Praises. — Cut large and thin semicircular slices of 
sponge or genoese cake [No. 31] ; dry slightly in the oven, baste with 
peach or apricot marmalade ; range in a circle on a flat dish, fill the 
centre and cover the circle in pyramidal form with raw strawberries ; 
reduce half a pint of syrup with some marmalade and two glasses of 
madeira wine ; pour this over the berries, and serve hot. 



236 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 140. 

Sunday, May 20. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Consomme a la Roqueplan. 

Brook-trout a 1' hoteliere ; 
Potatoes, English style. 

Aloyau of beef a la Turinoise ; 
Lettuce stewed with gravy. 

Roast spring chicken ; 
Roman salad. 

Riz a rimperatrice. 

Consomme ^ la Roqueplan. — Make a white roux with three 
ounces of butter and three ounces of flour ; dilute with three quarts of 
chicken-broth [No. 310], and boil slowly for half an hour ; meanwhile 
have ready a pound of chicken force-meat [No. 294] ; mix with a little 
curry powder and finely sliced mushrooms ; roll sausage-like in two 
sheets of buttered paper ; egg the edge, fasten the ends, and cook in 
simmering water for ten minutes ; drain, remove the paper, slice the 
force-meat transversely, and put it in a soup-tureen with a pint of 
cooked asparagus-tops ; skim and add to the soup a liaison of 
four egg-yolks diluted with a cup of cream ; strain through a fine 
sieve into the tureen ; cover, and serve. 

Brook-Trout a 1' Hoteliere. — Scale and cleanse eight or more 
brook-trout ; cut small incisions on both sides, put in a buttered sautoir 
with salt, pepper, four tablespoonfuls of oil, and the juice of a lemon ; 
cover with a buttered paper ; put in a moderately heated oven, baste 
two or three times with a little melted butter, and cook fifteen minutes ; 
drain, range on a dish, add a glass of white wine and half a pint of hot 
fine-herb sauce [No. 307] in the sautoir ; mix well without boiling ; 
pour over the fish, and serve. 

Potatoes, English Style. — [No. 293.] 

Aloyau of Beef a la Turinoise.— Procure a middle-cut of loin 
of beef weighing about ten pounds ; saw off the spine, pare and remove 
the superfluous fat from the fillet ; tie firmly and cook in a braisiere 
(stewpan) for three hours, with vegetables, aromatics, tomato sauce, 
and a pint of marsala wine as directed [No. 81] ; strain, skim off the 
fat, and reduce the gravy ; drain, untie, pare, and dish up the beef ; 
surround with a dozen timbales a la Turinoise ; pour some of the gravy 
over the beef, and serve. 

We take occasion to repeat what we said in another number [No. 
81] about boning what is left of the meat and moulding it with the rest 
of the gravy in a conical vessel ; this serves for'breakfast, lunch, etc. 



COOKERY BOOK. 



237 



Timbales ^ la Turinoise. — Butter a dozen small timbale- 
moulds ; besprinkle with a little bruised vermicelli ; line with a thin 
layer of short-paste ; fill with stewed nouilles [No. 302], cover with a 
small round of paste, put a small bit of butter on top ; range on a 
baking-sheet, and bake briskly until slightly browned. 

Stewed Lettuce with Gravy. — Pare off the greenest leaves and 
parboil eight large lettuce-stalks ; cool, press the water out, range in a 
sautoir with salt and pepper ; cover with bardes of lard and a buttered 
paper ; moisten with white broth, set to boil, and then let simmer for 
an hour and a half ; drain on a sieve, pare, and shape nicely by folding 
the leaves over, and range the lettuce on a dish ; remove the fat, strain, 
and reduce the liquid with four tablespoonfuls of melted beef-extract ; 
pour over the lettuce, and serve. 

Roast Spring Chicken. — [No. 270.] 

Roman Salad. — [No. 145.] 

Riz a r Imperatrice. — Wash and cook thoroughly four ounces 
of rice with a quart of milk and six ounces of sugar ; let cool ; mix in 
a saucepan eight egg-yolks with ten ounces of sugar ; dilute with a 
quart of cream and the infusion of a vanilla-bean ; stir on the fire with 
a wooden spoon until the preparation thickens ; press through a fine 
sieve, stir occasionally while cooling, mix with the rice, and freeze in 
the ordinary way ; add preserved peaches cut small and gooseberries, 
both steeped in cognac and drained ; mix carefully ; put in a semi- 
spherical mould of adequate size ; cover hermetically and imbed in a 
large pail of salted ice for at least two hours before serving ; immerse 
in tepid water, turn on a dish, and mask with a cold sauce made with 
peach marmalade, syrup, and maraschino in equal parts. 



No. 141. 

Monday, May 21. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Puree of asparagus i la royale. 

Boiled mackerel, sauce persillade ; 
Potatoes a la Bechamel. 



Ham glazed a la Clamart ; 
Stuffed tomatoes a la Proven^ale, 

Veal chops, Madeira sauce ; 
Lettuce salad, Parisienne. 

Souffle aux fruits. 

Puree of Asparagus ^ la Royale. — Prepare about two quarts 
of pur^e of asparagus as directed [No. 102] ; finish with half a pint 
of boiling cream, a little sugar, and two ounces of butter ; pour into a 



238 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

soup-tureen with a pint of small green peas and asparagus-tops, and 
serve. 

Boiled Mackerel, Sauce Persillade. — Draw two large, very 
fresh mackerel by the gills ; cleanse well, cut a little lengthwise in- 
cision on each side, and cook slowly in salted and acidulated water for 
half an hour ; drain, slide on a folded napkin, garnish with parsley- 
leaves and capers, and serve with a persillade sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Persillade Sauce. — Put into an earthen vessel a gill of salad oil, 
with salt, pepper, a tablespoonful of prepared mustard, the juice of two 
lemons, two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, and one of chervil and 
tarragon ; mix thoroughly with an^gg-beater, and serve. 

Potatoes a la Bechamel. — [No. 349.] 

Ham Glazed a la Clamart. — Trim, remove the hip-bone, steep in 
cold water overnight, and partly cook a twelve-pound ham in simmer- 
ing water, for two hours ; drain, remove the rind, besprinkle with 
powdered sugar, and put in a sautoir with a gill of sherry wine and a 
ladleful of broth ; cover with a buttered paper, and cook in a very 
moderate oven for about an hour longer, basting the ham frequently 
with the liquid to glaze the surface of a bright light-brown color, 
and to make the ham absorb the gravy ; trim the hock-bone, dish up, 
and surround with a border of puree of green peas ; put a paper ruffle 
on the bone, and serve with demi-glaze sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Puree of Green Peas. — Boil thoroughly two quarts of green 
peas, with a bunch of parsley and green onion, salt, and a little butter ; 
drain the peas, pound them to a pulp, dilute with the liquid, and press 
through a sieve ; put them in a saucepan with four ounces of butter 
and a little sugar, and heat while stirring steadily with a Avooden 
spoon ; add, if required, a little vegetable green [No. 107], to give the 
desired tint, and serve. 

Stuffed Tomatoes a la Provengale. — Proceed as directed 
[No. 309], with the addition of a little garlic to the stuffing. 

Veal Chops, Madeira Sauce. — Pare eight veal chops, flatten 
and trim nicely, place in a sautoir with melted butter, salt, pepper, and 
nutmeg ; fry briskly, and slightly brown on both sides ; drain the but- 
ter off, and add two glasses of madeira wine, a little broth, a pint of 
espagnole sauce, and a pinch of red pepper ; cover and let simmer ten 
minutes ; dish up in a circle, alternate with heart-shaped croCitons, 
strain the sauce in the centre, put small white-paper ruffles on the 
bones, and serve. 

Lettuce Salad, Parisienne.— [No. 54.] 

Souffle aux Fruits. — Boil four ounces of rice in water for 



COOKERY BOOK. 239 

twenty minutes ; drain, put in an earthen vessel with two glasses of 
maraschino, a little sugar, and fruits — such as raisons, citron, orange- 
peel, etc., cut small and steeped in syrup ; mix in a saucepan four 
ounces of flour, two ounces of fecula (or corn starch), three egg- 
yolks, three ounces of butter, a little vanilla, and two gills of milk ; put 
on the fire, stir steadily with a wooden spoon, and boil three minutes ; 
this should have the consistency of a very thick sauce ; put in six more 
egg-yolks and a small piece of butter, and mix well ; then add eight 
egg-whites beaten to a hard froth, and mix again ; put by layers in a 
large buttered, hollow china or plated baking-dish, alternating with 
prepared rice, etc., and finishing with the eggs ; smooth the surface, 
besprinkle with powdered sugar, and cook in a moderate oven for 
twenty minutes ; glaze of a nice color, and serve immediately. 



No. 143. 

Tuesday, May 22. — Bill of fare for eight persons 

Soup : Bisque of lobster a la Nantaise, 

Broiled salmon, sauce Bordelaise ; 
Potatoes a la Parisienne. 



Neck of mutton, English style ; 
Asparagus-tops au veloute. 

Tenderloin steaks, sauce Colbert ; 
Beet and Bermuda onion salad. 



Plum-cake. 

Bisque of Lobster §L la Nantaise. — Put two ounces of butter 

in a saucepan with sliced ham, salt pork, vegetables, and aromatics ; 
stir, and fry long enough to evaporate the moisture ; add six pounds of 
small lobsters, a pint of white wine, and three quarts of white broth ; 
cover, and boil forty minutes, drain, pick off, chop, and pound the 
lobster meat with the same quantity of boiled rice, two eggs, twelve 
egg-yolks, a little broth, and red butter [No. 135] ; press forcibly 
through a fine sieve ; put into a buttered plain-mould, and steam as you 
would a custard ; let cool, and cut in small squares ; thicken the broth 
with a white roux made of four ounces of flour and butter, add thp 
pounded lobster shells, dilute with the broth, and boil twenty minutes ; 
skim, strain through a fine sieve, and season highly ; add four ounces of 
butter in small bits, also red butter to tint slightly ; pour into a soup- 
tureen with the prepared lobster, and serve. 

Broiled Salmon ^ la Bordelaise. — Put four good-sized salmon 
steaks into a dish with salt, pepper, a little oil, and lemon-juice ; steep 



240 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

for half an hour ; mix three egg-yolks with melted butter ; baste the 
salmon with this, roll in fresh bread-crumbs, and broii over a moderate 
charcoal fire ; range on a dish with quartered lemons, and serve with a 
white bordelaise sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

White Bordelaise Sauce. — Fry slightly a tablespoonful of 
chopped shallots in a little butter ; moisten with a glass of white wine 
and a half-pint of veloute sauce ; season, boil five minutes ; add 
chopped parsley, lemon-juice, and a pat of butter, and mix well. 

Potatoes a la Parisienne. — [No. 269.] 

Boiled Neck of Mutton, English Style. — Procure a short 
fore-half of muttton, without shoulders and breast, but with six or 
eight ribs on each side ; remove the spine from the fleshy part of the 
neck to the first ribs ; shorten the ribs, saw off the spine at their base 
without injuring the outside ; pare off the transparent skin from the 
fatty parts, tie, shape nicely, and boil about an hour and a half in 
slightly salted water with an onion and turnips ; drain, pare nicely, sur- 
round with the quartered and trimmed turnips ; pour a little white 
sauce over, and serve with a bowl of caper sauce made with the mutton- 
broth. 

Asparagus-Tops au Veloute. — Cut in about inch-and-a-half 
lengths some white asparagus-heads ; tie in small bunches, and cook in 
salted water ; drain, range on a dish, pour a well-buttered veloute sauce 
over, and serve. 

Tenderloin of Beef, Sauce Colbert. — Flatten, pare nicely, 
season, baste with oil, and broil rather rare four large tenderloin steaks ; 
put on a dish, mask with a colbert sauce, and serve. 

Beet and Bermuda Onion Salad. — Slice crosswise and fine 
some bermuda onions, range in a salad-bowl with sliced beets ; season 
with salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar, and serve very cold. 

Plum-Cake. — Procure the following ingredients : six eggs, half a 
pound of butter, half a pound of powdered sugar, twelve ounces of 
flour, a wineglassful of cognac, a fourth of an ounce of allspice, the rind 
, of a lemon chopped fine, and two pounds of mixed fruits, such as 
malaga, currants, and sultana raisins, sliced citron and orange peel, and 
cut almonds ; put the butter in a large warmed earthen vessel, stir with 
a wooden spoon until creamy ; add the sugar, and work ten minutes, 
then add one by one the six egg-yolks ; work again for five minutes, 
then add half of the flour ; when this is mixed, put in the fruits and 
brandy, and mix again ; beat the egg-whites to a hard froth, then mix 
carefully the whole together with the rest of the flour ; line a buttered 
copper-mould with a thick buttered paper, pour the preparation in, and 



COOKERY BOOK. 241 

cook in a moderately heated oven for about an hour and a half ; cool, 
pare, mask, and ornament with white-sugar icing, and serve on a round, 
fancifully cut piece of white paper. This is more of a wedding cake 
than an entremet, and the recipe can be increased or lessened according 
to the quantity required. 



No. 143. 

Wednesday, May 23. — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup : Semolina a la Venitienne. 

Boiled sea-bass, parsley sauce ; 
Potatoes a la Hollandaise. 

Hamburg beef with spinach ; 
Green peas with small onions. 

Cutlets of pigeon a la Marigny ; 
Lettuce and chervil salad. 



Marrow pudding a la Cambridge. 

Semolina S. la Venitienne.-:— Strain three quarts of consomme 
[No. 133] in a saucepan ; let drop like rain eight ounces of semolina, 
while stirring all the time, and boil half an hour ; make small quenelles 
as. follows : Put four ounces of melted butter in a large bowl with five 
egg-yolks ; mix quickly until frothy, add four ounces of fine semolina, 
some salt and grated nutmeg, and mix again ; have salted boiling 
water in a saucepan, then fill a teaspoon with the above preparation, 
smooth with the blade of a knife dipped in hot water, and Vv^ith another 
teaspoon, also dipped in hot water, drop the quenelle in the boiling 
water ; repeat the same until the whole is used up ; let simmer a few 
minutes until firm ; drain on a cloth and pare a little ; skim the soup, 
add a cup of cream, and pour in a soup-tureen ; add the quenelles, and 
serve, with grated parmesan cheese, on a plate. 

Boiled Sea-Bass, Parsley Sauce. — Procure two medium-sized 
sea-bass ; clean well, truss nicely ; put in a fish-boiler with a bunch of 
parsley, and salted and acidulated water an inch over the fish ; cover, 
boil, and let simmer half an hour ; drain, dish up on a folded napkin ; 
garnish with parsley, and serve with a parsley sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Potatoes a la Hollandaise. — [No. 4.] 

Hamburg Beef with Spinach. — Procure a fat rump-piece of 
recently smoked beef ; steep overnight in cold water ; drain, and boil 
for about three hours in fresh water, with a handful of parsley and 
aromatics ; drain, pare a little, place on a dish, surround with plain or 
mashed spinach, baste with melted beef-extract, and serve with a ma- 
deira sauce in a sauce-bowl. 



242 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Green Peas with Small Onions. — [No. 123.] 

Cutlets of Pigeon a la Marigny. — Select four full-grown tender 
pigeons ; singe, draw, pare off the stumps and pinions ; slit the skin on 
the back and bone them entirely, leaving only the small stumps and pinion 
bones ; divide in halves ; season with salt and pepper ; put in a sautoir 
with melted butter, fry a little on both sides, and press slightly between 
two tin sheets ; put a tablespoonful of chopped shallots and two hand- 
fuls of chopped mushrooms in the sautoir ; stir, and fry until the mois- 
ture is evaporated ; add a pint of veloute sauce, and boil five minutes ; 
thicken with four egg-yolks, add chopped parsley and lemon-juice, and 
mix well ; put the pigeons in this sauce, and cool partially ; cut eight 
sheets of thick white paper in heart-shape ; oil and spread them on the 
table ; put a thin slice of red beef-tongue on each side of the paper, 
and half a pigeon with its sauce on the right side, fold the paper over, 
then, with the thumb and forefinger of the right hand, twist the edge 
in close, tight folds ; repeat the operation for every one ; turn the 
pigeons over and place them on a baking-sheet ; baste with oil, and 
bake light brown in a moderate oven for about ten minutes ; range on 
a dish, and serve with a sauce-bowl of their sauce, kept purposely in 
the sautoir and diluted with a little white broth. 

Lettuce and Chervil Salad. — [No. 133.] 

Marrow Pudding a la Cambridge. — Pick and chop fine a 
pound and a half of beef-marrow with twelve ounces of fine fresh 
bread-crumbs ; put this in a vessel with half a pound of sugar, half 
a pound of candied citron, lemon- and orange-peel cut in fine shreds, 
and a half pound of picked currants ; add four beaten eggs, half a 
gill of brandy, a gill of madeira wine, and mix the whole together ; 
butter a large cylindrical and not too high cake-mould ; fill with the 
preparation, put on a baking-sheet, and bake in a moderate oven for an 
hour ; invert on a dish, pour the following sauce over, and serve very 
hot. 

Sabayon au Mad^re. — Put in a saucepan six egg-yolks, three 
ounces of sugar, and half a pint of madeira wine ; beat on the fire with 
an egg-beater until thick and frothy, and serve immediately. 



COOKERY BOOK. 243 

No. 144. 

Thursday, May 24. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Puree of string-beans. 

Sturgeon pie a la Neva ; 
Roast Bermuda potatoes. 

Mutton chops a la Byron ; 
Cucumbers a 1' Espagnole. 

Sweetbreads a la Matignon ; 
Lettuce and tomato salad. 



Rissoles a la frangipane. 

Puree of Strjng-Beans.— Pick, string, and wash some green 
beans ; break in pieces, cook in salted water, cool, drain, and pound 
to a pulp ; thicken two quarts of white broth with four ounces of flour 
cooked in butter, add the beans, stir and boil five minutes ; press for- 
cibly through a fine sieve ; stir, and heat again nearly to a boil, season 
to taste; add a little sugar, four ounces of butter, half a pint of boiling 
cream, and enough of vegetable green [No. 107] to give a greenish 
tint ; pour into a tureen, and serve with small squares of bread fried 
in butter. 

Sturgeon Pie a la Neva. — Make a russian paste as follows : 
put into a large earthen basin twelve ounces of sifted flour, make a 
hole in the centre, put into this three eggs, a little salt, two ounces of 
melted butter, half an ounce of concentrated yeast diluted with a cup 
of warm milk ; mix well, and knead the whole together for ten min- 
utes, while adding two ounces more of melted butter ; besprinkle with 
flour, cover with a cloth, and put into a warm closet to rise ; slice up 
three pounds of sturgeon-meat, and season with salt and pepper ; melt 
in a sautoir two ounces of butter with a chopped onion ; fry a little, 
add the fish, half a pint of chopped mushrooms, and two ladlefuls of 
reduced veloute sauce ; let the whole simmer twenty minutes, and cool 
in the sauce ; parboil, and then cook half a pound of rice with a pint 
of broth and four ounces of butter, and let this cool also ; chop fine 
four hard-boiled eggs and two tablespoonfuls of parsley; take three 
fourths of the raised paste, flatten in an oblong shape on a floured 
napkin, put on the centre a thick layer of rice, then the half of the 
fish, sauce, eggs, and parsley ; then another layer of rice, and so on 
with the rest of the fish, sauce, etc., finishing with the rice ; smooth 
nicely, fold up the sides of the paste, so as to cover entirely ; wet, then 
fold also the ends of the paste over ; with the help of the napkin turn 
the whole over on a baking-sheet ; wet, and put a small flat of the paste 
over ; let rise in a warm place for twenty minutes ; egg the surface 



244 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

and score a few slight incisions across it ; make a hole on the centre 
and cook in a moderately heated oven for an hour ; slide on a dish, 
pour some melted butter inside, and serve with an egg sauce in a sauce- 
bowl. This pie is greatly esteemed in Russia, where sturgeon are good 
and abundant. 

Roast Bermuda Potatoes. — Cook as irish potatoes [No. 9]. 

Mutton Chops a la Byron. — Pare eight or more large mutton 
chops ; cook and press them as directed [No. 10]; immerse them in their 
gravy well reduced with fine herbs, and cool again ; roll in fine bread- 
crumbs, fry in clarified butter, dish up in a circle ; pour a ragout of 
stewed mutton kidneys in the centre ; put small paper ruffles on the 
bones, and serve. 

Stewed Kidneys. — Slice eight mutton kidneys ; put into a sau- 
toir on a brisk fire with melted butter ; fry slightly brown, drain off 
the butter ; add a few sliced mushrooms ; finish with a ladleful of es- 
pagnole sauce, juice of a lemon, two ounces of butter, salt, pepper, and 
chopped parsley ; toss in the sautoir without boiling. 

Cucumbers ^ 1' Espagnole. — [No. 144.] 

Roast Sweetbreads a la Matignon. — Pare eight heart sweet- 
breads ; steep in cold water for three hours, parboil, press and cool 
between two tin sheets ; prepare a matignon as follows : put into a 
saucepan four ounces of butter with finely sliced carrots, shallots, pars- 
ley, and aromatics ; stir, and fry until slightly browned ; moisten with 
a glass of white wine, and let simmer five minutes ; put this into a dish 
with the sweetbreads, turn frequently, and steep two hours ; drain the 
sweetbreads, and roll in thin bardes of fat pork; fold in buttered paper, 
put on skewers, and roast before a moderate fire ; remove the paper 
and lard, glaze nicely, and serve with a demi-glaze sauce made with 
the matignon, a little broth, and espagnole sauce. 

Lettuce and Tomato Salad. — [No. 109.] 

Rissoles a la Frangipane. — Proceed exactly as directed [No. 
67], but use cream a la frangipane [No. 347], instead of marmalade. 



COOKERY BOOK, 245 



No. 145. 

Friday, May 25. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : a la Alsacienne. 

Fried brook-trout ; 
Potato croquettes. 

Pigeons a 1' Espagnole ; 
Mushrooms a la Bordelaise. 

Rump-steaks a la Parisienne ; 

Salad of romaines. 

Pudding a la diplomate. 

Soup i. r Alsacienne. — Thicken with three ounces of flour 
kneaded in butter, three quarts of beef-broth, in which a pound piece 
of salted breast of pork has been partially cooked ; boil half an hour, 
skim, and press through a napkin ; pare off the bones and rind of the 
pork, cut in half-inch squares, put into a flat frying-pan with melted 
lard, fry slightly brown thin sippets of bread, and drain in a colander ; 
pour the soup into a tureen with the pork, and a pint of well-drained 
and short-cut sour-krout cooked in the ordinary way ; cover, and serve. 

Fried Brook-Trout. — Draw by the gills and cleanse eight brook- 
trout ; wipe dry and make slight crosswise incisions on both sides ; 
roll in flour, immerse in beaten eggs, and fry of a nice color ; drain on 
a cloth, salt a little, range on a folded napkin, surround with fried 
parsley and quartered lemons, and serve. 

Potato Croquettes.— [No. 75.] 

Pigeons a 1' Espagnole. — Singe, draw, and truss four or more 
pigeons ; put them in a saucepan with two ounces of butter and four 
ounces of raw ham cut in squares ; fry slightly brown, besprinkle with 
a tablespoonful of flour, fry a little longer, dilute with a pint of cold or 
tepid broth (boiling liquid would surely make the sauce lumpy) ; add 
a bunch of parsley, and a little white and sweet chilli-pepper, stir, 
boil, cover, and cook slowly ; drain the pigeons and remove the pars- 
ley ; skim off the fat, add two dozen stoned and blackened Spanish 
olives, boil a few minutes ; dish up the pigeons, pour the sauce and 
garniture over, surround with heart-shaped crusts of bread fried in but- 
ter, and serve. 

Mushrooms §. la Bordelaise. — Pare off two pounds of fresh 
mushrooms, wash well, drain on a cloth, slice the heads and slit the 
stalks ; melt four ounces of butter in a large sautoir, with two table- 
spoonfuls of chopped shallots and a bruised clove of garlic ; fry slight- 
ly, put in the mushrooms, salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and fry briskly 
while tossing the mushrooms frequently, until the moisture is nearly 



246 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

evaporated ; moisten with two ladlefuls of espagnole sauce, add chop- 
ped parsley and lemon-juice ; mix well, and serve. 

Rump-Steaks a la Parisienne. — Procure a large or two medium- 
sized rump-steaks, sawed right across the flat bone, with the fillet 
adhering ; flatten, pare, season with salt and pepper, baste with oil, and 
broil slowly and rather rare ; put into a dish, surround with small round 
potatoes fried in butter, pour a colbert sauce Over the meat, and serve. 

Salad of Romaines. — Take four romaine stalks (a species of 
tender straight-leaved lettuce) ; remove the outside leaves, wipe, slit, 
and cut the inside ones ; range in a salad-bowl with chopped chervil, 
chives, and tarragon ; season at the last moment with salt, pepper, oil, 
and vinegar, and mix well. 

Pudding a la Diplomate. — Mix in a saucepan six egg-yolks with 
half a pound of sugar and the rind of a lemon ; dilute with a pint of milk, 
stir on the fire until the milk thickens, and press through a fine sieve ; 
add an ounce and a half of melted gelatine and cool partially ; have 
already imbedded in ice a plain charlotte-mould, ornamented with pre- 
served fruits (raisins, citron, angelica, etc.) ; add a layer of the pre- 
pared cream ; then thin slices of sponge-cake slightly dipped »in 
maraschino, and some fruits ; then another layer of cream, cake, and 
fruits, and so on until the mould is filled, finishing with cake and 
cream ; cover with an inverted plate and broken ice, cool thoroughly, 
immerse in lukewarm water, turn on a folded napkin, and serve. 



No. 146. 

Saturday, May 26. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup . Vegetable, i la Hollandaise. 

Baked perch a 1' Italienne ; 
Potato croquettes. 

Leg of mutton a la Mexicaine ; 
Fresh mushrooms on toast. 



Broiled chicken, Yorkshire sauce; 
Lettuce salad. 



Marrow-pudding fritters. 

Vegetable Soup d, la Hollandaise. — Pare some large carrots, 
white turnips, and cucumbers ; with a vegetable-scoop, scoop olive-sized 
pieces out of them ; cook separately to a glaze in a little white broth 
v/ith a pinch of sugar and a bit of butter ; cook also half a pint of fresh 
beans, the same of green peas, and a small cauliflower ; thicken three 
quarts of veal-broth [No. 298] with three ounces of flour cooked in 



COOKERY BOOK. 247 

butter ; boil half an hour ; add a liaison of six egg-yolks, a cup of 
cream, a little sugar, and mix well without boiling ; strain in a soup- 
tureen ; add the prepared vegetables, the cauliflower cut in small 
flowerets, a tablespoonful of freshly cut chervil, and serve. 

Baked Perch a 1' Italienne. — Prepare four pounds of good-sized 
white perch ; pare nicely and wash v/ell ; range on a buttered baking- 
dish strewn with chopped onion and parsley, season with salt and pep- 
per, strew more onion and parsley over, and small bits of butter ; 
moisten with two glasses of white wine and a little broth ; put in the 
oven, baste with the liquid, and cook twenty minutes ; reduce the 
liquid with a half 'pint of Italian sauce [No. 284] ; pour this over the 
fish, besprinkle with bread-crumbs, add small bits of butter, and bake 
slightly brown in a brisk oven ; squeeze the juice of a lemon over, and 
serve in the baking-dish. 
Potato Croquettes. — [No. 75.] 

Leg of Mutton a la Mexicaine. — Choose a tender leg of mutton ; 
flatten with the cleaver, trim the knuckle, and pare off the hip-bone and 
superfluous fat; cut the large muscle'so as to disjoint the knuckle, in- 
sert a clove of garlic in the fleshy part, and truss firmly ; put in a sauce- 
pan with melted fat, and fry a light brown all round ; drain the fat off, 
wet with a gill of port wine, a quart of white broth, and a half-pint of 
thick gravy ; add a bunch of parsley with aromatics, two bruised chilli 
peppers, and two quartered onions ; set to boil, cover, and cook slowly 
for two hours : strain, skim the fat, and reduce the gravy to a demi- 
glaze sauce ; untruss, pare a little, and dish up the mutton ; pour the 
reduced gravy over, add a paper ruffle on the bone, and serve with a 
puree of mexican beans separately in a vegetable-dish. 

Puree of Mexican Beans. — Steep overnight a quart of small 
mexican black-beans ; put in a saucepan with half a pound of salt pork, 
a bunch of parsley with aromatics, two chillies, and an onion with three 
cloves stuck in ; wet with cold water, cover, and let simmer tv^'o hours ; 
drain, remove the lard, parsley, and onion ; pound to a puree, rub 
through a sieve ; dilute with a gill of calabrian or port wine, a little 
demi-glaze sauce, and enough broth ; stir on the fire to a boil, add a 
little salt if required, and finish with four ounces of butter. 
Fresh Mushrooms on Toast. — [No. 203.] 
Broiled Chicken, Yorkshire Sauce. — Singe and draw two fat 
spring chickens ; slit down the back, divide in quarters, crack the main 
bones, and flatten ; season with salt and pepper, and fry rare in a sau- 
toir with melted butter ; drain, trim a little, roll the chickens in fresh 
bread-crumbs, and broil to a nice color in a double gridiron ; drain 



248 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

most of the butter from the sautoir, put in a chopped onion, fry a little, 
add a glass of sherry wine, a little rich broth, half a pint of rich, thick 
gravy, a tablespoonful of " Harvey-sauce " ; boil a little, finish with 
chopped parsley and lemon-juice ; dish up the chicken alternately with 
thin slices of broiled ham, pour the sauce round the dish, and serve. 

Lettuce Salad.— [No. 98.] 

Marrow-Pudding Fritters. — Cut cold slices of marrow-pudding 
[No. 143] ; dip in beaten eggs, roll in fresh bread-crumbs, smooth nicely, 
fry slowly and slightly brown in plenty of hot fat ; besprinkle with pow- 
dered sugar, range on a folded napkin, and serve with a sabayon au 
madere [No. 143] in a sauce-bowl. 



No. 147. 

Sunday, May 27. — Bill of fare for eight persons 

Soup : Consomme a la Medicis. 

Salmon-trout a la Richelieu ; 
Potatoes a la duchesse. 



Beef braised a la Nivernaise ; 
Asparagus a la Fribourg, 

Fried chicken a la Viennoise ; 
Cucumber and tomato salad. 

Lemon ice. 

Consomme ^ la Medicis. — Prepare three quarts of chicken- 
broth [No. 310] ; cook slightly three ounces of flour with three ounces 
of butter ; cool a little, dilute with the broth, stir to a boil, and let sim- 
mer half an hour ; chop and pound to a pulp the white meat of a 
cooked chicken ; season and dilute with four egg-yolks and four table- 
spoonfuls of veloute sauce, and press through a sieve ; cut about six- 
teen round slices of bread an inch and a half wide and half an inch 
thick, cut a slight incision inside the edge on one side, and fry slightly 
brown in butter ; remove the inside crumb, fill with the chicken puree, 
smooth, and baste with a little melted butter ; range on a tin dish and 
bake in the oven just long enough to set the puree ; skim and press the 
soup through a napkin, pour into a tureen ; add eight small poached 
eggs, and serve with the baked pieces of bread separately on a plate. 

Salmon-Trout a la Richelieu. — Scale a large or two medium- 
sized salmon-trout ; draw by the gills and cleanse thoroughly ; put in 
an oval baking-dish with salt, mignonette pepper, nutmeg, four ounces 
of butter, and two glasses of white wine ; cover with a buttered paper 
and cook in a moderately heated oven, basting frequently with the 
liquid ; drain the fish, add white broth and mussel liquor in the dish ; 



COOKERY BOOK, 



249 



thicken with an ounce of flour cooked in butter and boil ten minutes ; 
add four egg-yolks, the juice of a lemon, mix well, and press through 
a napkin ; dish up the fish, garnish with mussels and fish quenelles, 
pour the sauce over, surround with eight large cooked crayfish, and 
serve. 

Potatoes a la Duchesse. — [No. 258.] 

Beef Braised a la Nivernaise. — Take a piece of loin of beef 
weighing about ten pounds ; saw off the spine and cook as directed 
[No. 92] ; strain, skim off the fat, reduce the gravy with two ladlefuls 
of espagnole sauce, and press through a napkin ; pare and dish up the 
beef, surround with' a garnishing of small carrots a la nivernaise, pour a 
little gravy over the meat, and serve the rest in a sauce-bowl. 

Garniture a la Nivernaise. — Pare off nicely, enough small new 
carrots ; parboil, drain, and put them in a saucepan with white broth 
enough to cover and a little salt, pepper, and sugar ; cover the sauce- 
pan and boil until done and the liquid reduced to the consistency of a 
glaze. 

Asparagus ^ la Fribourg. — Scrape, wash, tie in bunches, cut the 
stalks evenly, and cook some large white asparagus ; drain on a cloth 
without cooling ; range by layers all the heads one way in a dish alter- 
nately with fresh-grated gruyere cheese ; pour four ounces of very hot 
and nearly browned butter over, and serve. 

Fried Chicken d la Viennoise. — Select two large, tender, fat, 
and dry-picked chickens ; singe, draw, and cut each one in eight or 
nine pieces, as for fricassee ; flatten slightly ; pare and put in an earthen 
vessel with salt, pepper, parsley, bay-leaves, thyme, and lemon-juice to 
steep for two hours ; drain, roll in flour, dip in beaten eggs, roll again 
in fresh bread-crumbs, fry slowly and thoroughly in clarified butter, 
dish up, add a handful of fried parsley, and serve with a fleurette sauce 
in a sauce-bowl. 

Cucumber and Tomato Salad. — [No 115.] 

Lemon Ice. — Prepare a quart of syrup at thirty-two degrees while 
hot ; when cool add the rind of three lemons, a third of a pint of lemon- 
juice, a little vanilla, and enough water to reduce to twenty degrees ; 
cover with a cloth and let infuse an hour ; strain through a sieve, put 
into a sorbetiere, and freeze in the ordinary way. A gill of kirschwasser 
or santa cruz rum added to this will make an excellent punch to sip 
before the last course of the dinner. 



250 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 148. 

Monday May 28. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Green cabbage and potato. 

Boiled mackerel, gooseberry sauce ; 
Baked potatoes a la bourgeoise. 

Cromesquis of chicken ; 
Tomatoes a la Sicilienne. 

Mutton chops a la bouchere ; 
Vegetable salad. 



Bavarois aux fraises. 

Green Cabbage and Potato. — Remove the greenest leaves and 
the core of two green cabbages ; wash well, cut in pieces, put in a 
saucepan with four ounces of butter ; set on the fire and stir until the 
moisture is nearly evaporated ; drain most of the butter off ; wet with 
three quarts of beef-broth and a quart of water, cover, and cook an 
hour ; peel six large potatoes, cut in squares, add these to the soup, 
and boil half an hour longer ; cut two french rolls in thin slices, dry 
them a little, put into a soup-tureen, pour the soup over, and serve. 

Boiled Mackerel, Gooseberry Sauce. — Procure two large 
fresh mackerel ; draw by the gills, remove the oily dark blood-vessel 
that lies along the spine, pare off the fins, make a long incision in the 
back, place on the drainer in a narrow fish-kettle with salted and acid- 
ulated water, and put a sheet of paper over ; set to boil, and let simmer 
slowly for half an hour, drain, and slide on a folded napkin ; surround 
with parsley-leaves, and serve with gooseberry sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Gooseberry Sauce. — Pick a pint of green gooseberries ; put in a 
small untinned sugar-pan with boiling water ; boil about ten minutes, 
drain thoroughly, press through a sieve, and mix with an equal quan- 
tity of well-buttered white sauce. 

Baked Potatoes a la Bourgeoise. — [No. 332.] 

Cromesquis of Chicken. — Pick the meat from a large or two 
medium-sized cooked chickens ; cut in small squares ; cut also in the 
same way half the quantity of cooked mushrooms ; have a pint of well 
reduced veloute sauce in a saucepan, thicken with four egg-yolks ; add 
the chicken and mushrooms, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, the 
juice of half a lemon, salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; mix well and turn 
into a dish to cool ; boil a veal udder or a piece of fat pork for half an 
hour, put to press and cool between two tin sheets, pare, and cut in 
large and very thin slices ; divide the chicken preparation in pieces the 
size and shape of a long cork ; roll each piece in a slice of fat, 
put a small round piece at each end, and trim nicely ; immerse in a 



COOKERY BOOK, 251 

flour batter, and fry, a few at a time, crisp and slightly brown in plenty 
of clear hot fat ; drain on a cloth, range on a folded napkin, surround 
with fried parsley, and serve. 

Tomatoes a la Sicilienne. — Open a dozen large ripe tomatoes 
by taking off the stem with an inch-wide piece of tomato ; remove the 
seeds, take out the pulp and chop it fine ; put into a saucepan four 
tablespoonfuls of sweet oil, with chopped shallots, three ounces of 
finely chopped raw ham and a well garnished bunch of parsley ; fry a 
little, moisten with a glass of marsala or sherry wine, two ladlefuls of 
veloute sauce, and the tomato pulp ; stir and reduce to a thick sauce ; 
remove the parsley, add half a pint of chopped mushrooms, a handful 
of white bread-crumbs, white and red pepper ; mix well, fill the toina- 
toes, range them a little apart on a baking-sheet, besprinkle with bread- 
crumbs and grated cheese, drop a little oil on the top of each, and bake 
in a moderate oven for half an hour ; range on a dish, reduce and pour 
the liquid over, and serve. 

Mutton Chops a la Bouchere. — Choose eight large fat-covered 
mutton chops ; flatten, pare off the spine and transparent skin from the 
surface ; season with salt and pepper, baste with oil, besprinkle with 
bread-crumbs, and broil carefully and rather rare on a moderate char- 
coal fire ; range in a circle, and serve plain. 

Vegetable Salad. — Serve as macedoine salad [No. 91]. 

Bavarois aux fraises. — Pick and press through a sieve enough 
strawberries to obtain a pint of pulp ; mix with ten ounces of pow- 
dered sugar flavored with vanilla, an ounce and a half of clarified 
gelatine dissolved in two gills of water ; stir on ice until it begins to 
congeal ; add enough whipped cream [No. 77] to fill a three-pint 
mould ; imbed in ice, cool thoroughly, and serve in the ordinary way. 



No. 149. 

Tuesday, May 29. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Chicken, a la Kitchenner. 

Brook-trout a la Durance ; 
New potatoes with cream. 

Calf's tongue in paper ; 
Stewed lettuce a 1' Espagnole. 

Spring ducks a la Rouennaise ; 
Romaine salad. 



Apple fritters in surprise. 

Chicken Soup \ la Kitchenner. — Melt three ounces of butter 
in a saucepan with three ounces of flour ; fry a little without browning, 



252 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

dilute with three quarts of chicken-broth, add a little white pepper and 
grated nutmeg, and stir to boiling ; have ready two very small roasted 
chickens lightly colored and rather underdone ; carve in pieces, pare, and 
remove the skin, and put on a plate ; then put the skin and parings in 
the soup, and boil half an hour ; skim, and press this through a nap- 
kin into another saucepan ; add the pared chicken, boil ten minutes 
longer, finish with a gill of cream and a pint of rice cooked in broth ; 
season to taste, and serve, 

Brook-Trout a la Durance. — Draw a very large or two medium- 
sized brook-trout ; cleanse thoroughly, truss the head to the body, put 
on the drainer in a fish-boiler with salted and acidulated water enough 
to cover ; set to boil, and then let simmer for half an hour ; drain, and 
slide upon a folded napkin ; pick the shells from the tails, and crack 
the claws of sixteen large crayfish ; range them round the fish, put a 
heap of parsley at each end of the dish, and serve with Hollandaise 
sauce slightly tinted with crayfish-butter [No. 135] in a sauce-bowl. 

New Potatoes with Cream. — [No. 349.] 

Calf's Tongue in Paper. — Steep four fresh calves' tongues in 
tepid water for an hour; drain, parboil ten minutes, cool, pare, and. 
scrape off the white skin from the surface ; cook in two quarts of water 
slightly thickened with an ounce of flour, salt, a sliced onion, a glass of 
vinegar, a bunch of parsley, and aromatics ; then drain on a cloth, slit 
in two, and set to cool in very consistent italian sauce ; cut eight large 
thick sheets of white note-paper in heart-shape, oil, and spread them 
on the table, put a thin slice of cooked ham on each side, and half a 
tongue with its sauce on the right side ; fold the paper over, twist the 
edge in tight folds, repeat the same for every half tongue ; invert them 
all on an oiled baking-sheet, baste with a little oil, and set to take a 
light-brown color in a moderately heated oven for fifteen minutes ; 
dish up in a circle, and serve with a demi-glaze sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Stewed Lettuce 9, 1' Espagnole. — Proceed as directed [No. 
140] ; range on a dish, pour a well-reducd espagnole sauce over, and 
serve. 

Roasted Ducks k la Rouennaise. — Select two large fleshy but 
not fishy spring ducks (in Rouen they do not bleed ducks, but kill 
them by thrusting a pin in the head through the brain, so as to keep 
the blood in the flesh ; this accounts in a great measure for the univer- 
sally conceded superiority of the ducks) ; singe, draw carefully ; save 
the hearts and livers, pare off the galls, and chop all fine, add salt, 
pepper, a little ground allspice, an ounce of butter, a tablespoonful of 
chopped shallots, two tablespoonfuls of fresh white crumbs and chopped 



COOKERY BOOK. / 253 

parsley ; truss, and put this stuffing in the ducks ; fasten both ends ; 
put on the spit, and roast rare before a brisk fire for twenty-five or 
thirty minutes ; untie, and put them on a very hot dish, add a little 
broth to the drippings, strain over the ducks, and serve, 

Romaine Salad. — [No. 145.] 

Apple Fritters in Surprise. — Take eight small, firm, and sound 
apples with the stems on ; cut out the stems with an inch-wide piece of 
apple adhering ; scoop out the core with a vegetable-scoop or the round 
point of a knife ; pare the apples, and put them to steep with a glass of 
brandy for an hour ; fill partly with marmalade or frangipane cream ; 
dip the apple-slice with the stem on in a little beaten egg kneaded with 
flour ; to close the aperture immerse the entire apple in a flour-batter, 
and fry slowly and of a nice color in plenty of clear, hot fat ; drain on 
a cloth, roll in powdered sugar, range on a folded napkin, and serve. 



No. 150. 

Wednesday, May 30. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Green pea, a la St. Cloud. 

Stewed frogs a la poulette ; 
Timbale of potatoes. 

Sweetbreads a la Milanaise ; 
Cucumbers a la Bechamel. 



Rump-steaks a la Polonaise ; 
Beet and lettuce salad. 



Meringues with gooseberry cream. 

Green Pea, a la St. Cloud. — Put in a stewpan two quarts of 
fresh-shelled, large green peas with two quarts of boiling water, salt, 
a bunch of parsley and green onion, an ounce of butter, and four ounces 
of salt pork cut in large, thick slices ; boil quickly and uncovered for 
about half an hour ; strain the liquid, remove the parsley and lard, 
and pound the peas to a pulp ; dilute with the liquid and some 
rich chicken or veal broth ; then a few moments before serving, so as 
to have the soup as green as possible, return it to the stewpan ; stir 
steadily on a brisk fire until it boils, skim, add two ounces of butter 
and a little sugar, boil no longer, pour into a soup tureen, and serve 
with small squares of bread fried in butter. 

Stewed Frogs a la Poulette. — Take about three dozen dressed 
frogs, according to size ; pare off the feet, steep in cold water for an 
hour ; drain and truss as directed [No. 159] ; put into a sautoir with 
four ounces of melted butter, salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; fry briskly 



254 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

and long enough to evaporate the moisture without allowing to brown ; 
drain most of the butter off, moisten with two glasses of white wine 
and a pint of veloute sauce ; cover and boil until done ; skim, add a 
liaison of four egg-yolks, two ounces of butter in small bits, a table- 
spoonful of chopped parsley, and the juice of a lemon ; mix well with- 
out boiling, dish up in pyramidal form, surround with fried heart- 
shaped croutons, and serve. Of the two eating species of frogs, the 
green marsh and the bull, the former is the better, being delicate, 
healthy, and tender. 

Timbale of Potatoes.— [No. 325.] 

Larded Sweetbreads ^ la Milanaise. — Select and pare eight 
heart sweetbreads ; steep in cold water for about three hours, then 
parboil until firm ; cool, drain, and press between two tin sheets until 
cold, then fasten fine strips of fat pork on the best side ; put sliced 
carrot and onion in a sautoir, with lard trimmings and aromatics ; add 
the sweetbreads, the larded side uppermost ; moisten with white broth 
to half their height ; put a buttered paper over, boil briskly and then 
cook in a moderately heated oven for about forty minutes, taking care 
to baste the larding frequently, and glaze of bright, light-brown 
color ; strain and free the gravy of its fat, and reduce to a demi-glaze 
sauce ; pour a garniture a la milanaise [No. 277] into a dish, range the 
sweetbreads in a circle, with the largest in the centre, pour the demi- 
glaze over, and serve. 

Cucumbers ^ la Bechamel. — Prepare and cook four cucumbers 
as directed [No. 154] ; drain on a cloth, put them in a not too consis- 
tent bechamel sauce, add a little sugar, mix carefully without boil- 
ing, and serve. 

Rump-Steaks ^ la Polonaise. — Procure two good-sized and 
tender beef rump-steaks ; flatten with the cleaver, pare, season with 
salt and pepper, and broil rather rare over a charcoal fire ; put on a 
dish, surround with groups of flowerets of cauliflowers, previously 
boiled ; dip in a flour batter, and fry slightly brown ; pour a polonaise 
sauce over the steaks, and serve some more in a sauce-bowl. 

Polonaise Sauce. — Put three gills of reduced veloute sauce in a 
saucepan ; boil, add a gill of thick sour cream, press through a napkin, 
and finish with three tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish, lemon-juice, 
and a little chopped fennel. 

Meringues with Gooseberry Cream. — Prepare -some goose- 
berry cream as directed for strawberries [No. 175] ; have sixteen 
medium-sized meringue-shells ; fill them by pairs with the cream, range 
in pyramid form on a folded napkin, and serve. Another good way is 



COOKERY BOOK. 255 

to dip slightly a side of the shells in sugar au caramel (310 degrees 
Fahrenheit), and pile them in circles on a dish against a straight tin 
timbale-form ; remove the form, fill with the cream, and cover with 
similarly prepared meringues. 



No. 151. 

Thursday, May 31. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Puree of asparagus, printaniere. 

Sheep's-head, caper sauce ; 
Boiled potatoes. 

Croquettes of sweetbread a la Duxelles ; 
String-beans a la Lyonnaise. 

Fillets of mutton, port-wine sauce ; 
Lettuce, sauce Mayonnaise. 

St. Honore cake. 

Puree of Asparagus, Printaniere. — Prepare a puree of aspara- 
gus as directed [No. 102] ; finish with half a pint of boiling cream, and 
serve with green asparagus-tops, small peas, and string-beans cut in 
small pieces and put in at the last moment. 

Sheep's-Head, Caper Sauce. — Choose a medium-sized thick 
sheep's-head (the larger ones are generally bony, hard, stringy, dark in 
color, and tasteless) ; scale, draw, pare, and cleanse well ; truss the 
head to the body, set to boil in salted and acidulated water ; cover with 
a sheet of paper, and let simmer forty minutes ; drain, slide on a folded 
napkin, surround with parsley, and serve with caper sauce [No. 103] in 
a sauce-bowl. 

Boiled Potatoes. — [No. i.] 

Croquettes of Sweetbread ^ la Duxelles. — Procure about 
six sweetbreads, according to size ; pare, and steep in cold water until 
whitened ; parboil, cool, drain, and cut in rather thick slices ; put in a 
sautoir with two ounces of melted butter, salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; 
cover the sautoir, fry slightly until the moisture is evaporated, and drain 
on a plate ; put two tablespoonfuls of chopped shallots with the butter 
in the sautoir ; fry a little, add a pint of cooked mushrooms cut in very 
small squares ; fry a little longer, moisten with a pint of allemande 
sauce ; add four egg-yolks, stir vigorously, and boil a minute ; then put 
in the sweetbreads also cut in small squares, chopped parsley, and 
lemon-juice ; mix well, and turn into a dish to cool ; strew some bread- 
crumbs on the table, divide the preparation in eight or more pieces of 
oblong shape, dip in beaten eggs, roll in bread-crumbs again, smooth 
nicely, and fry slightly brown in ple-nty of hot fat ; drain on a cloth, 



256 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

dish up in a circle ; put fried parsley in the centre, and serve with a 
duxelles sauce [No. 65] in a sauce-bowl. 

String-Beans a la Lyonnaise. — Melt two ounces of butter in a 
sautoir with two finely sliced onions ; fry slightly brown ; add enough 
string-beans, salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; heat thoroughly while tossing 
the beans occasionally ; finish with two ounces of butter in small bits, 
chopped parsley, and lemon-juice, and serve. 

Roast Fillets of Mutton, Port-Wine Sauce. — Take two whole 
fillets of mutton (the part between the ribs and the hip) ; saw off the 
spine, remove the superfluous suet from the minion fillets, and pare off 
the fat and sinews from the upper ones ; flatten slightly, fasten rows of 
small oblongs of fat pork on the surface ; put the fillets in a dish with 
salt, pepper, and a little oil to steep an hour ; tie with strings, put on 
the spit, and roast before a brisk fire and to a nice color for about forty 
minutes ; add a little broth to the drippings, skim off the fat, strain 
into a saucepan with two glasses of port wine, a pint of espagnole, a 
bay-leaf, and a sprig of thyme ; boil ten minutes and press through a 
napkin ; untie, pare, and dish up the fillets, glaze the surface, pour part 
of the sauce round the dish, and serve the rest in a sauce-bowl. 

Lettuce, Sauce Mayonnaise. — [No. 254.] 

St. Honore Cake. — Make a pate a choux as follows : put in a 
saucepan three gills of water, three ounces of butter, and a teaspoonful 
of sugar ; boil a minute ; add at once half a pound of sifted flour ; mix 
well, and stir on the fire for a few minutes, until the paste ceases to 
cling to the saucepan ; take this from the fire, put the preparation into 
another vessel, and mix with it, one by one, six or seven eggs ; put a 
thin, round, ten-inch-wide flat of short-paste on a baking-sheet ; wet 
the edge ; put the choux-paste in a thick cloth- or paper-funnel with a 
half-inch hole at the point ; then press the short-paste gently out on 
the wet edge to form a border, and spread a little of the choux-paste in 
the centre ; egg the border, pick the paste in the centre, and bake in a 
moderate oven ; with the rest ot the choux-paste press out small, round 
cakes on a baking-sheet, egg, and bake them also in the oven ; dip 
these in sugar cooked au caramel (310 degrees Fahrenheit), and range 
them one against the other upon the border. 

Make St. Honore cream as follows : Put in a saucepan six 
egg-yolks, half a pound of sugar, three ounces of flour, and the rind of 
a lemon chopped fine ; mix well, dilute with three gills of milk, set on 
the fire, and stir steadily till the cream boils ; beat eight egg-whites to 
a hard froth, and mix carefully with the cream ; pour in a heap into 
the cake, cool half an hour, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 257 



No. 152. 

Friday, June i. — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup ; Garbure i la Clermont. 

Spanish mackerel k 1' estouffade ; 
Roast potatoes. 

Boiled corned beef and cabbage ; 
Stewed turnips with gravy. 

Broiled yellow-legged snipe ; 
Romaine and tomato salad. 



Tourte a la moelle, 

Garbure ^ la Clermont. — Take the upper crust of a small french 
loaf of bread ; cut in eight or more pieces, remove the crumbs, dry 
slightly, and put in a baking-bowl with a pint of fat beef-broth ; set to 
simmer, and slightly bake in a moderate oven for half an hour ; pare 
off and cut in rings four large bermuda onions, fry slightly brown in 
clarified butter, drain on a cloth, then boil in broth for twenty minutes ; 
drain the fat (if any) from the bread, pour the onions and broth over, 
and serve with two quarts of boiling beef-broth in a soup-tureen and 
grated parmesan cheese on a plate. 

Spanish Mackerel a 1' Estouffade. — Procure a large Spanish 
mackerel ; draw by the gills and cleanse nicely ; place on the buttered 
perforated sheet of a narrow fish-boiler, with a bunch of parsley, salt 
pepper, nutmeg, and a clove of garlic ; moisten with half a pint (each) 
of white wine and white broth ; place a buttered paper over, cover as 
tightly as possible, set to boil, and let simmer for forty minutes ; drain 
and slide the fish on a dish ; strain and reduce the liquid briskly with 
half a pint of espagnole sauce ; add two ounces of butter and lemon- 
juice, pour over the fish, and serve. 

Roast Potatoes. — [No. 9.] 

Corned Beef and Cabbage. — Select a good-sized piece of pretty 
fat and tender corned beef (the rump is the best) ; wash it in hot water 
and put in a saucepan of adequate size, covering the beef with fresh 
water ; set to boil, skim thoroughly and cover ; then let simmer slowly 
for about two hours, according to size ; remove the greenest leaves, 
quarter and core two cabbages, parboil five minutes, drain, add to the 
beef, and let simmer about an hour longer ; drain and dish up the beef ; 
drain the pieces of cabbage, arrange them round the dish, and serve. 

Stewed Turnips with Gravy. — Pare enough turnips ; cut in 
quarters, trim a little and parboil in salted water for about five minutes ; 
drain, put in a sautoir with four ounces of melted butter and a tea- 
spoonful of sugar ; stir and toss long enough on a brisk fire to evaporate 



258 FRANCO-AMERICAN- 

the moisture ; moisten with beef-broth and cook briskly ; drain and 
dish up the turnips ; reduce the liquid to a demi-glaze sauce, with a 
tablespoonful of beef extract ; add a pat of butter, pour the gravy over 
the turnips, and serve. 

Broiled Yellow-Legged Snipe. — Pick and singe eight snipe ; 
slit down the back, remove the intestines, crack the main bones and 
flatten slightly ; season with salt and pepper, oil a little and broil 
briskly over a charcoal fire ; put on thin buttered toast, dish up in a 
row, one slightly overlapping the other ; pour a melted maitre d' hotel 
sauce over, add a heap of water-cress at each end, and serve with a 
rich clear gravy in a sauce-bowl and quartered lemons on a plate. 

Romaine and Tomato Salad.— Add sliced tomatoes to a 
romaine salad [No. 145]. 

Tourte a la Mcelle. — Put a ten-inch wide; round thin flat of 
feuilletage paste on a baking-sheet ; pinch up a little ledge, an inch 
from the edge ; wet and lay an inch-wide rim of the same paste on the 
edge, and make both ends join and adhere as neatly as possible ; pick 
four ounces of beef-marrow, parboil slightly, drain, put in a vessel, 
bruise with a wooden spoon, mix with frangipane cream [No. 347] ; 
pour this in the centre of the rim, egg the paste, cut slight incisions 
round, and cook thoroughly in a brisk oven ; dust fine sugar over all, 
glaze of a bright light-brown color ; slide on a dish, and serve hot. 



No. 153. 

Saturday, June 2. — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup : Vermicelli a la pluche. 

Sturgeon a la Normande ; 
Stewed potatoes. 

Leg of lamb with turnips ; 
Spinach a la Bechamel. 

Chicken saute a la Castillane ; 
Romaine salad. 



Strawberry pie a la Parisienne. 

Vermicelli S, la Pluche. — Parboil half a pound of vermicelli ; 
cool, drain, put in a saucepan with a quart of consomme [No. 133] ; 
boil ten minutes, pour into a soup-tureen with three more pints of boil- 
ing consomme and a handful of pluche made with chervil, parsley, and 
fennel-leaves picked very fine ; cover, and serve. 

Sturgeon £l la Normande. — Select a prime cut of sturgeon 
weighing about five pounds ; remove the skin and round bony scales ; 



COOKERY BOOK. 259 

cleanse well, cover with thin bardes of lard, and tie with a string ; 
put in a saucepan with sliced vegetables, aromatics, salt, two ounces of 
butter, two gills of white wine, mussel-liquor, and a pint of white broth ; 
cover, set to boil, and cook slowly for an hour, basting the fish fre- 
quently with the liquid ; strain, and skim the fat of the liquid, thicken 
with an ounce of flour cooked in butter, boil ten minutes ; add a liaison 
of four egg-yolks, four ounces of butter in small bits, the juice of a 
lemon, and press through a napkin ; drain, take off the lard, trim, and 
dish up the fish ; garnish with mushrooms, mussels, and fish-quenelles ; 
pour the sauce over all, and serve. 

Stewed Potatoes.— [No. 81.] 

Boiled Leg of Lamb with Turnips. — Pare a large leg of lamb, 
trim the handle, and cut the sinews at the joint of the thigh-bone, to 
bend the leg easily ; put in a stewpan with boiling salted water, an 
onion, and turnips (if the turnips are small, boil them separately), and 
boil steadily for an hour ; drain, and dish up the lamb, surround with 
the turnips cut in quarters and trimmed ; make a white sauce with the 
broth, and pour it over ; put a white-paper ruffle to the bone, and serve 
with capers on a plate. 

Spinach ^ la Bechamel. — Boil, cool, drain, and chop some 
spinach as directed [No. 61] ; put in a saucepan with three ounces of 
butter, salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; stir on a brisk fire five minutes ; add 
two tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well, and dilute with about a pint of 
cream ; stir to a boil, pour into a deep dish, smooth the surface, sur- 
round with triangular slices of bread fried in butter, and serve. 

Chicken Saute a la Castillane. — Singe two tender chickens, 
draw, and divide as for fricassee ; put in a sautoir with a gill of salad 
oil, two ounces of butter, four ounces of ham cut in small squares, 
white and sweet chillies, pepper, and a little salt ; cover, set on a brisk 
fire, and fry slightly brown on both sides ; add three white onions sliced 
crosswise, and a bruised clove of garlic, and fry a little longer ; drain 
part of the fat off, moisten with two glasses of sherry wine, a pint of 
espagnole sauce, a little broth, and six scalded, large, ripe tomatoes de« 
prived of seeds and sliced ; cover, and let the whole simmer half an 
hour ; dish up the chicken ; reduce the liquid to the consistency of a 
thick sauce ; pour over the dish, and serve. 

Romaine Salad. — [No. 145.] 

Strawberry Pie a la Parisienne. —Put a thin, round, ten-inch- 
wide flat of feuilletage on a baking-sheet ; wet the edge, then lay on this 
a rim of the sauce-paste a third of an inch thick and an inch wide, and 
make the ends adhere ; pick three pints of large and not too ripe straw- 



26o FRANCO-AMERICAN 

berries, roll them in fresh butter and powdered sugar, put in the centre 
of the cake in dome form, wet the rim, and cover with another thin 
flat of feuilletage ; press gently with the thumbs over the rim, trim the 
edge, baste the surface with egg-Avhite, besprinkle with white granulated 
sugar, and bake in a moderately heated oven for half an hour without 
allowing the surface to brown. The flats of paste should be only about 
an eighth of an inch thick, because this fruit requires no cooking. 



No. 154. 

Sunday, June 3. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Garbure a 1' Italienne, 

Soft-shell crabs, fried plain ; 
Potatoes sautees. 

Chicken braised, tomato sauce ; 
Cucumbers, sauce supreme. 

Entrecotes of beef i la Rockaway ; 
Asparagus salad a la Ni9oise. 

Currant ice. 

Garbure ^ 1' Italienne. — Remove the soft part from the upper 
crust of a loaf of french bread ; cut the crust in pieces ; pare, dry a 
little ; put in a baking-bowl, the outside uppermost ; moisten with a 
pint of the strained surface of the stock-pot and let simmer uncovered 
in a moderate oven for about half an hour; drain the fat off, add a quart of 
boiling beef-broth ; cover, and serve with two quarts of julienne soup 
[No. 255] separately in a soup-tureen. 

Soft-Shell Crabs, Fried Plain. — Procure about a dozen soft- 
shell crabs, the number varies according to size ; pare off the small 
legs, remove the gills and flaps, wash well and wipe dry ; immerse in 
cream, and fry six at a time briskly and crisp in plenty of clear and very 
hot fat ; drain on a cloth, sprinkle fine salt over, range on a folded nap- 
kin, surround with fried parsley and quartered lemons, and serve. 

Potatoes Sautees. — [No. 301.] 

Chicken Braised, Tomato Sauce. — Take two large, tender, 
dry-picked chickens ; singe, draw, and truss nicely ; cover the breast 
with pared slices of lemon and bardes of fat pork ; tie with a string and 
boil for about half an hour in a saucepan with white broth enough to 
cover, a bunch of parsley, a quartered carrot, and an onion with three 
cloves stuck in it ; drain, untie, and remove the lard and lemon ; dish 
up, pour a well-reduced tomato sauce round the dish, and serve. 

Stewed Cucumbers, Sauce Supreme. — Pare off slightly, and 
slit SIX cucumbers in quarters ; remove the seeds, cut each quarter in 



COOKERY BOOK, 261 

two, trim a little ; put in a saucepan with two quarts of boiling water, 
salt, an ounce of butter ; cook slowly for about half an hour, and drain 
thoroughly in the folds of a soft cloth ; make a supreme sauce [No. 128], 
with a pint of strained chicken-broth ; add the cucumbers and a little 
sugar ; mix well without boiling, pour into a deep dish, and serve. 

Entrecotes of Beef a la Rockaway. — Choose three thick and 
tender entrecotes of beef ; pare and flatten with the cleaver ; season 
with salt and pepper, baste with oil and broil rather rare at the last 
moment over a moderate charcoal fire ; pare off and slit crosswise eight 
large white onions ; besprinkle with flour, fry crisp and slightly brown 
in plenty of hot fat ; drain on a cloth and salt a little ; dish up the 
entrecotes with a little butter, smother with the onions, and serve with 
scraped horseradish on a plate. 

Asparagus Salad a la Nigoise. — Scrape, cook, and cool some 
white asparagus ; range on a folded napkin, and serve with the following 
sauce in a sauce-bowl : 

Nigoise Sauce. — Rub through a fine sieve three hard-boiled egg- 
yolks ; put in a deep bowl with two raw egg-yolks, salt, pepper, and a 
tablespoonful of prepared mustard ; stir with a wooden spoon, and mix 
with it, slowly at first, two gills of sweet oil and a little vinegar, finish- 
ing with two tablespoonfuls of chopped fine herbs. If the sauce is 
sufliciently acid and too thick, dilute with a little cold water. 

Currant Ice. — Pick two pounds of ripe red currants, and half a 
pound of raspberries ; rub the pulp through a fine hair-sieve into an 
earthen pastry-vessel or a new dish (never use kitchen-vessels for acid 
preparations, lest a greasy taste should be imparted) ; add about a pint 
and a half of thick syrup to condense the liquid to the twenty degrees ; 
put this in a sorbetiere, and freeze in the ordinary way. A saccha- 
rometer is indispensable to ascertain the density of all preparations where 
syrup has to be used instead of solid sugar. 



No. 155. 

Monday, June 4. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Puree of cabbage a la Piemontaise. 

Fried butter-fish ; 
Hashed potatoes with fine herbs. 

Stewed beef kidneys ; 
Tomatoes a la Florentine. 

Fore-quarter of Iamb, sauce ravigote "^ 
Wild chiccory salad. 

Gooseberry cream, English style. 



262 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Puree of Cabbage i, la Piemontaise.— Remove the green 
leaves, cut in quarters, and pare off the cores of two cabbages ; if they 
are musky, take others ; parboil in plenty of salted boiling water ; 
cool, and press the water out, chop fine, put in a saucepan with four 
ounces of melted butter ; stir, and fry long enough to evaporate the 
moisture without browning ; add three ounces of sifted flour, salt, pep- 
per, and nutmeg ; mix well, dilute with a quart of white broth ; boil, 
cover, and cook slowly for an hour ; dilute with three pints more of 
boiling white broth ; rub through a fine sieve, return to the saucepan, 
stir, and boil a moment ; skim, finish with a pint of boiling-hot cream 
and two ounces of butter in small bits ; mix well, pour into a soup- 
tureen with small squares of bread fried in butter, and serve. 

Fried Butter-Fish. — Pare, draw, and cleanse well about four 
pounds of butter-fish ; wipe dry, dip in milk, roll in flour, and fry the 
fishes (not too many at a time) in plenty of clear, hot fat ; drain on a 
cloth, besprinkle with salt, dish up on a folded napkin, put fried pars- 
ley on top, surround with quartered lemons, and serve. 

Hashed Potatoes with Fine Herbs. — [No. 96.] 

Stewed Beef Kidneys. — Select two beef kidneys of a light 
pinky color (the dark ones have generally a strong, unpleasant odor, 
are of poor quality, and tough) ; remove the fatty substance from the 
middle, cut in slices, and season with salt and pepper ; put in a sautoir 
with boiling-hot butter, and fry slightly brown while tossing them in 
the sautoir ; drain the butter off, and put the kidneys on a plate ; put 
two wineglassfuls of sherry wine in the sautoir, with nearly a pint of 
espagnole sauce ; boil until pretty consistent, add some mushrooms, 
the kidneys, four ounces of butter in small bits, chopped parsley, and 
lemon-juice ; mix well without boiling ; taste, and dish up as high as 
possible in a bread border made fast on an entree-dish ; serve. 

To Make a Bread Border. — Cut thin slices of white of stale 
bread in lozenges, rings, or triangles ; fry them in clarified butter to 
have them slightly brown, or in sweet oil if you desire them paler ; 
drain on a cloth ; make a thin batter with a little white of egg and 
flour ; dip shghtly in this one side of the slices of bread, range them 
one against the other on the border of a dish, and dry with care at the 
entrance of the oven. 

Tomatoes ^ la Florentine.— Open and prepare a dozen large 
tomatoes as directed [No. 148] ; make a stuffing with a clove of garlic 
and chopped shallots slightly fried in oil ; add mushrooms, chopped 
parsley, and cooked chicken livers chopped fine, with grated parmesan 
cheese, a glass of marsala wine, four egg-yolks, and two handfuls of 



COOKERY BOOK. 263 

steeped and pressed white of bread ; season highly, stir and cook a 
little ; fill the tomatoes, sprinkle bread-crumbs and grated cheese over, 
drop a little oil on each one, and bake half an hour ; range on a dish, 
pour the reduced liquid over, and serve. 

Fore-Quarter of Lamb, Sauce Ravigote. — Prepare and cook 
a quarter of lamb as directed [No. 263] ; mix chopped shallots, fine 
herbs, and lemon-juice with two ounces of butter ; insert this at serv- 
ing-time in a deep incision made between the shoulder and the ribs, 
and serve with a ravigote sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Wild Chiccory Salad. — Pick tender leaves of wild chiccory ; 
steep for a while in cold water to remove the bitterness partly ; drain 
thoroughly, and put in a salad-bowl with chopped chives, tarragon, and 
chervil ; serve with a caster of salad ingredients. 

Gooseberry Cream, English Style. — Pick and parboil a pound 
of green gooseberries ; drain on a hair-sieve, let cool, and then press 
through the sieve ; add fine powdered sugar, and mix with twice the 
quantity of sweet cream beaten to a hard froth [No. 77] ; serve in a 
cream-dish or in china cups, with a dish of lady-fingers separately. 



No. 156. 

TuESDAY,June 5. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Cream of rice 4 la Buffon. 

Small halibut, parsley sauce ; 
New potatoes, English style. 

Mutton chops, puree of mushrooms ; 
String-beans a la maitre d' hotel. 

Fritot of chicken, tomato sauce ; 
Cauliflower salad. 



Strawberry tart. 

Cream of Rice ^ la Buffon. — Wash thoroughly a pound of rice ; 
parboil, drain, and put in a saucepan with two quarts of chicken-broth, 
an ounce of butter, white pepper, and nutmeg ; stir to boiling, cover, 
and let simmer an hour ; add more broth and press forcibly through a 
fine sieve ; return to the stewpan, stir nearly to a boil ; finish with a 
liaison of four egg-yolks diluted with two gills of cream ; mix well 
without boiling ; pour into a soup-tureen with some purposely cooked 
large white asparagus-tops and about two dozen small chicken que- 
nelles [No. 294] ; serve. 

Small Halibut, Parsley Sauce. — Procure a small halibut weigh- 
ing about six pounds ; draw, pare off the head and fins short ; make 



264 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

an incision lengthwise in the back from head to tail and remove about 
three inches of the centre of the spine ; steep in cold water for an 
hour, drain, place in a large sautoir with salted and acidulated water 
enough to cover, and cover with a sheet of white paper ; put to boil, 
then cook by letting simmer slowly for half an hour ; drain and slide 
on a folded napkin, surround with parsley-leaves, and serve with 
parsley sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Parsley Sauce. — Bruise and boil two handfuls of parsley-leaves 
for five minutes in two gills of water ; strain the water through a sieve 
and thicken with an ounce of flour kneaded in butter ; add salt, pepper, 
and nutmeg ; boil a minute, finish with two egg-yolks, chopped parsley, 
four ounces of butter in small bits, and a few drops of vinegar ; mix 
well and press through a napkin. 

New Potatoes, English Style. — [No. 293.] 

Mutton Chops with Puree of Mushrooms. — Take eight 
thick and fat mutton chops ; pare off the spine and the ribs short ; 
fasten short oblong pieces of raw ham across the lean part ; put them 
in a sautoir with sliced vegetables, aromatics, salt, pepper, ham 
and mutton parings ; moisten with broth, cover, and cook slowly about 
two hours ; drain and press slightly between two thin sheets, and let 
cool ; remove the fat, strain, and reduce the liquid to the consistency 
of a demi-glaze sauce ; pare the chops and warm them in this sauce ; 
dish up in a circle ; pour a puree of mushrooms in the centre and the 
demi-glaze sauce over the chops ; add small paper ruffles to the bones, 
and serve. 

Puree of Mushrooms. — Pare off the soil from a pound of fresh 
mushrooms ; wash well, cut in slices, and cook in a saucepan with a 
little water, lemon-juice, and an ounce of butter, for two minutes ; let 
cool, take out of the liquid, press thoroughly in a cloth, chop fine, 
pound to a pulp with an ounce of hard butter, and rub forcibly through 
a fine wire sieve ; reduce the liquid until consistent with three gills of 
bechamel sauce ; add the mushrooms and boil an instant ; season to 
taste, and finish with an ounce of butter. 

String-Beans a la Maitre d' Hotel. — [No. 120.] 

Fritot of Chicken, Tomato Sauce. — Singe, draw, and cut two 
large chickens as for fricassee ; parboil five minutes in white broth ; 
drain, wash, and pare nicely ; put in an earthen vessel with salt, pep- 
per, nutmeg, lemon-juice, and sliced onion to steep an hour ; drain, 
roll in flour, immerse in a flour batter, and fry slightly brown and well 
in clear hot fat ; drain on a cloth, dish up on a folded napkin, put a 
handful of fried parsley on top, and quartered lemons around the dish, 
and serve with tomato sauce m a sauce-bowl. 



COOKERY BOOK. 265 

Cauliflower Salad.— [No. 97.] 

Strawberry Tart. — Butter and line a ten-inch-wide pastry-circle 
with tart paste ; place the circle on a baking-sheet ; line the paste with 
a buttered strip of paper, fill with plum or cherry pits, or dry corn, and 
bake as you would a pie ; remove the pits and paper, baste the paste 
all over with thick syrup, and dry in the oven ; let cool and fill with 
large red-ripe strawberries ; steep more strawberries in a very thick 
syrup for two hours ; strain, mask the tart over with this syrup, and 
serve. 



No. 157. 

Wednesday, June 6. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Pea, a la Napier. 

Spanish mackerel a. la Nassau ; 
Mashed potatoes. 

Corned ham a la Bayonnaise ; 
Turnips a la poulette. 

Pigeon pie, English style ; 
Tomato salad. 

Meringues with strawberry cream. 

Pea Soup ^ la Napier. — Boil thoroughly two quarts of large, 
fresh-shelled green peas with two quarts of water, four ounces of salted 
breast of pork cut in large slices, and a handful of parsley tied up with 
a green onion ; then take the pork on a plate, remove the parsley, drain 
the peas, and reserve the liquid ; pound the peas to a pulp, dilute with 
the liquid, press forcibly through a fine sieve ; return to the stewpan, 
dilute to the desired consistency with more broth ; stir to boiling, skim 
off the white froth, season to taste, and boil no longer ; pare off the 
rind and cut the pork in small squares, fry slightly crisp with a little 
melted lard, and drain in a colander ; pour the soup into a tureen, add 
the pork and two tablespoonfuls of finely cut (not chopped) mint ; 
mix well, and serve. 

Spanish Mackerel it la Nassau. — Cleanse a large Spanish 
mackerel, wash, and wipe dry ; make slight incisions on both sides ; 
place in a buttered dish with salt, pepper, six peeled and sliced toma- 
toes without their seeds, two glasses of white wine, and a gill of water ; 
pare two large bermuda onions, cut m rings, and parboil five minutes ; 
drain them on a cloth, range these, one upon the other, in a row upon 
the fish ; add a little chopped parsley and mushrooms, v/ith butter over 
all ; cover with buttered paper, and cook in the oven for about half an 
hour, basting the fish frequently ; drain, and thicken the liquid with a 



266 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

tablespoonful of flour kneaded with butter ; add a little broth, and 
boil five minutes ; pour this over the fish, besprinkle with bread- 
crumbs, put small bits of butter on top, and bake slightly brown for 
fifteen minutes longer ; squeeze lemon-juice over, and serve. 

Mashed Potatoes.— [No. i8.] 

Corned Ham a la Bayonnaise. — Steep a salted ham overnight 
in cold water ; drain, pare, remove the hip-bone ; put the ham in a 
stewpan with water, a bunch of parsley, aromatics, slit carrots and 
onions, and a handful of pepper-corns ; set to boil, and then let sim- 
mer about three hours ; drain, take off the rind, and pare the ham and 
hock-bone ; put in a stewpan a chopped onion with two ounces of but- 
ter ; fry slightly brown, add a pound of washed and well-drained rice, 
stir, and fry a little longer - moisten with a quart of beef-broth; add 
salt, white and sweet chilli pepper ; cover and boil slowly for twenty- 
five minutes ; mix well, pour into a dish, flatten, and smooth nicely ; 
put the ham on this sauce, surround with alDout a pound and a half of 
small sausages about an inch and a half long, previously slightly fried 
and then stewed in a demi-glaze sauce ; pour the sauce over the sau- 
sages, put a white-paper ruffle on the bone, and serve. 

Turnips ^ la Poulette. — Pare, cut in quarters, and cook some 
white turnips in slightly salted water, with a little butter ; drain, put in 
a well-buttered veloute or white sauce made with the liquid ; add 
chopped parsley ; mix well, and serve. 

Pigeon Pie, English Style. — On the bottom of a china or 
earthen flat-edged, deep baking-dish range thin slices of tender fillet 
or beef sirloin ; season with salt and pepper, add chopped fine herbs 
and a ladleful of espagnole sauce ; singe, draw, and slit in two, four or 
more squab ; pare them, flatten slightly, season, range over the beef 
with more fine herbs, six sliced hard-boiled eggs and espagnole sauce ; 
wet the edge of the dish, lay an inch-wide flat rim of feuilletage paste 
on it, wet again, and cover the whole with a large thin flat of the same 
paste ; trim and make the edges adhere ; egg the surface, make a few 
crosswise incisions, then a hole in the centre ; cook to a nice color in a 
moderately heated oven for an hour ; pour a little more espagnole sauce 
inside through the hole, and serve hot. 

Tomato Salad, — [No. i86.] 

Meringues with Strawberry Cream. — Mix half a pint of 
strawberry pulp with four ounces of powdered sugar and a quart of 
whipped cream [No. 77] ; fill the meringue shells, range on a folded 
napkin, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 267 

No. 158. 

Thursday, June 7. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Cucumber a la Beauvilliers. 

Stewed mussels, California style ; 
Potatoes a la Lyonnaise. 

Breast of veal a la Portugaise ; 
Stewed cabbage with butter. 

Chicken saute a la Marengo ; 
Lettuce and niinced-ham salad. 

Cups-of-coffee custard. 

Cucumber d. la Beauvilliers. — Prepare three quarts of con- 
somme [No. 133] ; pare three medium-sized cucumbers ; remove 
the seeds with an apple-corer, parboil two minutes, drain on a 
cloth, and fill the centres with chicken force-meat ; put in a sau- 
toir with thin bardes of lard, salt, pepper, and white broth, and cook 
slowly for half an hour ; cool partially, cut crosswise in slices half an 
inch thick ; range in a soup-tureen with thin, round, dry crusts of 
french bread and a handful of chiffonnade of finely sliced chervil and 
sorrel leaves ; pour the consomme carefully over, and serve. 

Stewed Mussels, California Style. — Scrape, remove the hairy 
tuft, wash thoroughly, and cook a gallon of mussels as directed [No. 
in] ; save the liquor, and remove half of the shells ; scald, press out 
the seeds, and slice fine six ripe tomatoes ; melt in a saucepan four 
ounces of butter with two chopped onions ; fry slightly, put the toma- 
toes in the saucepan, and fry a little longer ; add the mussels, half a 
pint of their liquor, a pint of veloute sauce, two tablespoonfuls of 
white-wine vinegar, salt, white and red pepper ; cover, and boil ten 
minutes ; add two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, mix well by toss- 
ing the mussels carefully, pour into a deep dish, and serve. 

Potatoes a la Lyonnaise. — [No. 6.] 

Breast of Veal a la Portugaise. — Select a fat and white breast 
of veal ; remove the ribs and red breast-bone ; make a deep incision 
in the large end, nearly the length of the breast ; fill with a stuffing 
made with a pound of raw, lean veal and a pound of fat pork chopped 
very fine, half a pound of fresh bread-crumbs steeped and pressed, salt, 
pepper, nutmeg, and two eggs, the whole pounded very fine ; sew up 
the aperture, and put the veal in a sautoir, the outside uppermost, with 
sliced vegetables, spices, aromatics, and a quart of broth ; cover, and 
cook in a moderate oven for about two hours, taking care to sprinkle 
the veal frequently with its gravy ; drain, pare, and dish up the veal, 
surround with a dozen or more stuffed tomatoes, pour the strained and 
reduced gravy over, and serve. 



268 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Stewed Cabbage with Butter. — Take some new cabbages, re- 
move the green leaves ; cut in quarters, pare off the cores, wash, par- 
boil five minutes, cool, and gently press the water out ; cut in pieces, 
put in a saucepan with half a pound of melted butter, salt, and pepper ; 
stir, and fry until the xnoisture is nearly evaporated ; moisten with a 
pint of broth, and cook slowly until the broth is reduced ; drain most 
of the butter off, add a ladleful of veloute sauce, mix well with a 
wooden spoon, and serve. 

Chicken Saute a la Marengo. — Procure two fat and tender 
chickens ; prepare and cut as for fricassee, then cook and serve exactly 
as directed for veal a la marengo [No. 138]. 

Lettuce and Minced-ham Salad. — Cut four ounces of raw 
ham in thin slices ; fry pretty crisp, drain, and let cool, range 
over well-drained lettuce with chopped chervil and tarragon, and serve 
with a caster of salad ingredients. 

CupS"Of-Coffee Custard. — Put in a saucepan eight egg-yolks 
with eight ounces of sugar ; mix well, dilute with six custard-cups full 
of boiling milk and a good cupful of concentrated black coffee ; pass 
through a fine strainer, fill the cups, and put them in a sautoir with 
boiling water to half their height ; take off the froth that may have 
risen to the surface, cover the sautoir, and let simmer gently for twenty 
minutes ; see if the custard is well set ; let cool in the water, drain, 
wipe the cups, and serve cold. 



No. 159. 



Friday, June 8. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Sturgeon a la Suedoise. 

Fried frogs, English style ; 
Potato croquettes. 

Veal cutlets a la Bordelaise ; 
Spinach with poached eggs. 

Roast leg of mutton a la Rosny ; 
Romaine and beet salad. 

Green gooseberry tart. 

Sturgeon cL la Suedoise. — Cut two pounds of sturgeon meat in 
thin slices, flatten slightly ; pare and range in a buttered sautoir with 
salt, mignonette and red pepper, and nutmeg ; scrape, wash, and cook 
a quart of mussels ; pick them from the shells and save the liquor ; 
with the fish parings, the mussel liquor, white wine, water, and about 
four pounds of fresh common salt-water fish, prepare three quarts of 



COOKERY BOOK. 269 

fish-broth as directed [No. 138] ; thicken this broth with three ounces 
of flour slightly browned in butter, and boil slowly for half an hour ; 
cook the sturgeon-slices with a little broth and a glass of rhine wine ; 
drain and put in a soup-tureen with the mussels ; put the liquid with 
the soup, skim and season highly, and pass through a fine strainer into 
the tureen over the fish ; add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and 
serve. 

Fried Frog's, English Style. — Procure about three dozen dressed 
frogs, the number varies according to size ; pare the feet off, wash 
well, truss nicely by inserting a stump along the shin of the other leg ; 
wipe dry, put in a dish on ice with salt, pepper, and lemon-juice to 
steep an hour ; drain and roll in flour, immerse in beaten eggs ; roll 
again in fine bread-crumbs and fry slightly brown in hot fat ; range on 
a folded napkin, put a handful of fried parsley on the top, surround 
with quartered lemons, and serve with tomato sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Potato Croquettes. — [No. 75.] 

Veal Cutlets a la Bordelaise. — Procure eight white and fat 
medium-sized veal cutlets, cut from the loin ; pare off the spine, flatten 
and pare nicely ; place in a sautoir with two ounces of melted butter, 
a gill of oil, salt and pepper ; fry slightly brown on both sides, drain 
most of the fat off, add two tablespoonfuls of chopped and pressed 
shallots ; fry a little longer, moisten with a glass of white wine, a little 
broth, and a pint of espagnole sauce ; cover and let simmer twenty 
minutes; then drain and dish up the cutlets in a circle, alternating with 
heart-shaped slices of bread, fried in oil ; have ready a pint can of 
bordeaux preserved cepes, heated, well drained, and cut in slices ; put 
them in the sauce, boil a few minutes longer, finishing with chopped 
parsley and lemon-juice ; pour this in the centre of the dish, and serve. 

Spinach with Poached Eggs. — Prepare some mashed spinach 
as directed [No. 61], and pour into a deep dish ; poach soft eight 
eggs in slightly salted boiling water ; with a skimmer transfer them to' 
tepid water ; pare a little, range upon the spinach, and serve. 

Roast Leg of Mutton a la Rosny. — Choose a tender leg of 
mutton ; pare off the sinewy outside surface and the handle bone and 
flatten with the cleaver ; fasten rows of small oblongs of fat pork and 
put the whole in a large earthen vessel with a marinade [No 28], to 
steep for twenty-four hours ; drain, wipe dry, put on the spit before a 
brisk fire ; baste often with the marinade previously put in the drip- 
ping-pan, and cook about an hour ; put the meat in a dish, and pour 
over it a poivrade sauce [No. 314], made with the drippings and broth ; 
add a paper ruffle to the bone, and serve. 



270 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Romaine and Beet Salad. — Add finely sliced beet to a romaine 
salad [No. 145]. 

Green Gooseberry Tart. — Butter and put a ten-inch-wide pastry- 
rincf on a buttered baking-sheet ; line with a thin flat of tart paste 
[No. 181] ; trim the edge, spread a layer of apple sauce on the bottom 
and bake slightly brown ; pick and parboil a quart of green goose- 
berries ; drain, and mix with half a pound of powdered sugar in an 
earthen vessel, drain in a colander, and range in the tart ; reduce the 
liquid to the consistency of a thick syrup, let cool, mask the berries 
with it, and serve. 



No. 160. 

Saturday, June 9. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Potato puree with cream. 

Stewed eels with cucumbers ; 
Mashed Potatoes a la Mantaise. 



Tenderloin steaks with olives ; 
String-beans, English style. 

Roast yellow-legged snipe ; 
Water-cress salad. 



Strawberry jelly a la Victoria. 

Potato Puree with Cream. — Pare off and cook about two 
quarts of potatoes with a quart of water, a quart of white broth, salt, 
white pepper, and an ounce of butter ; mix well and press through a 
sieve ; return to the saucepan, dilute to the desired consistency with 
boiled cream, stir, and boil five minutes ; add two ounces of butter in 
small bits, and serve with small squares of white of bread fried in 
butter. 

Stewed Eels with Cucumbers. — Procure two good-sized eels ; 
pare off the heads and fins, singe over an alcohol or live-coal fire, to 
remove the second skin; cut in four-inch lengths, and steep in cold 
water about an hour ; drain, put in a saucepan with salt, mignonette 
pepper, a bunch of parsley, a sliced onion, a pint of white wine, and a 
pint of water ; cover, boil, and let simmer about fifteen minutes ; then 
with a skimmer transfer the fish to another saucepan ; pare off and 
quarter three cucumbers, remove the seeds, cut in pieces, trim, and 
cook as directed [No. 154] ; drain thoroughly and add to the fish ; 
strain and thicken the fish-liquid with an ounce and a half of flour 
cooked in butter ; boil ten minutes, skim, finish with a liaison of four 
egg-yolks, a little red pepper, and juice of lemon ; press through a 



COOKERY BOOK. 



271 



napkin over the fish, and heat well without boiling ; dish up the fish in 
pyramid form, pour the sauce and garnishing over, surround with heart- 
shaped croutons fried in butter, and serve. 

Always use lemon-juice sparingly, for if there is an excess it nulli- 
fies the richness of the sauces, garnishings, etc. 

Mashed Potatoes ^ la Mantaise. — [No. 296.] 

Tenderloin Steaks with Olives. — Take four large tenderloin 
steaks ; flatten, pare off most of the fat and sinews, season with salt 
and pepper ; heat in a sautoir a gill of sweet oil, add the steaks, fry 
briskly, slightly brown on both sides, and rather rare ; take the steaks 
up on a plate, drain the oil ; put two glasses of sherry wine, a little 
broth, and a pint of espagnole sauce in the sautoir, stir, and boil five 
minutes ; stone about four dozen olives, parboil, cool, drain, and put 
them in the sauce ; boil a few minutes longer and skim well ; dish up 
the steaks, add their juice to the sauce, pour the sauce over, and 
serve. 

String-Beans, English Style. — Pick and string some green 
beans ; set them to boil about half an hour before serving ; drain 
without cooling ; put in a sautoir with four ounces of hardly-melted 
butter, salt, pepper, chopped parsley, and the juice of half a lemon ; 
mix well, turn into a deep dish, range a few pats of table butter on top, 
and serve immediately. 

Roast Yellow-Legged Snipe. — Pick eight fresh and fat yellow- 
legged snipe ; singe, draw, and truss nicely by inserting the bill through 
between the first and second joints of the legs ; cover with thin bardes 
of lard, and roast before a brisk fire for about twelve minutes ; dish up 
on eight concave broiled slices of bread of adequate size ; add a ladle- 
ful of broth to the drippings, strain this over the birds, and serve with 
quartered lemons on a plate. 

Water-Cress Salad. — [No. ^tZ^ 

Strawberry Jelly a la Victoria. — Clarify three pints of straw- 
berry jelly [gelee aux fraises, No. 131] and cool partially ; imbed a 
plain cylindrical entremet-mould in ice, and pour a little jelly on the 
bottom ; pick some large strawberries, range a layer on the jelly, add 
about an inch more of jelly, and let congeal slightly ; add another 
layer of strawberries and jelly, and so on until the mould is filled ; 
cover with an inverted plate and broken ice ; cool thoroughly, and 
serve in the ordinary way. 



272 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 161. 

Sunday, June lo. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Terrapin, Virginia style. 

Spanish mackerel, sauce Livournaise ; 
Mashed potatoes. 

Beef pie k la Londonderry ; 
Mushrooms a la Napolitaine. 

Roast stuffed spring ducks ; 
Lettuce salad a la Parisieniie ; 

Iced compote of strawberries. 

Terrapin, Virginia Style. — Procure two large diamond-back 
terrapin ; scald and cook them rather firm as directed [No. 272] ; re- 
move the shells and intestines ; pare and cut the terrapin in small 
pieces and put in a saucepan with four ounces of melted butter ; stir 
on a brisk fire until the moisture is evaporated, besprinkle with three 
ounces of sifted flour ; mix well, dilute with two quarts of white broth, 
and two gills of pale sherry wine ; add white and red pepper, stir till 
the soup boils, and cook slowly until well done ; skim, taste, and finish 
with a liaison of four egg-yolks diluted with a gill of raw cream, mix 
well without boiling, pour into a soup-tureen, and serve with pared 
lemon slices separately on a plate. 

Broiled Spanish Mackerel, Livournaise Sauce.— Select a 
large, fresh Spanish mackerel ; draw by the gills, trim off the head and 
fins ; slit open down the back and remove the spine ; season with salt 
and pepper, baste with oil, put in a double heated gridiron, and broil 
slowly and of a nice color ; slide on a dish, the inside uppermost ; 
spread a little melted butter over, surround with quartered lemons, and 
serve with a livournaise sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Livournaise Sauce. — Steep in cold water, slit open, pare, and 
remove the bones of eight anchovies ; wipe dry and pound to a pulp 
in a small mortar ; add two egg-yolks, dilute slowly at first and care- 
fully with two gills of sweet oil and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar ; add 
white pepper, nutmeg, and chopped parsley ; mix well, and serve cold. 

Mashed Potatoes.— [No. 18.] 

Beef Pie a la Londonderry. — Cut in thin slices about four 
pounds of fillet or tender sirloin of beef, and season with salt and pep- 
per ; butter a large english pie baking-dish, range the meat with alter- 
nate layers of chopped parsley, mushrooms, shallots, and a ladleful of 
thickened brown gravy ; wet and lay a rim of feuilletage paste on the 
edge ; cover the whole with a thin flat of the same ; finish, cook, and 
serve as directed for pigeon pie [No. 157.] 



COOKERY BOOK, 273 

Stuffed Mushrooms ^ la Napolitaine. — Take sixteen or more 
large fresh mushrooms ; pare the soil off the stalks and wash well ; 
pare the heads and range them on a baking-sheet ; chop up fine the 
stalks and parings, and press the water out ; put them in a saucepan with 
two tablespoonfuls of chopped shallots, a little garlic, and a gill of 
sweet oil ; stir and fry to evaporate the moisture ; add a ladleful of 
well-reduced tomato sauce, salt, mignonette and red pepper, two hand- 
fuls of fresh bread-crumbs, the same of grated parmesan cheese, and 
chopped parsley ; mix well and fill the mushrooms with this prepara- 
tion ; besprinkle with bread-crumbs and cheese, drop a little oil over, 
and bake slightly brown in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes ; press 
lemon-juice over, range on a dish, pour two ladlefuls of demi-glaze 
sauce round, and serve. 

Roast Spring Ducks, Stuffed. — Choose two large and fat spring 
ducks ; singe and draw carefully ; save and pare the livers, chop them 
fine, fry a little with a small piece of butter and a tablespoonful of 
chopped shallots ; mix with four ounces of steeped and pressed white- 
of-bread, two ounces of butter, two egg-yolks, salt, pepper, and chopped 
parsley ; put this in the ducks, secure both ends, truss nicely, and 
roast about forty minutes ; untie and dish up the ducks ; add a little 
broth to the drippijigs, strain over the ducks, and serve with a glass of 
currant jelly inverted on a plate. 

Lettuce Salad a la Parisienne. — [No. 56.] 

Iced Compote of Strawberries. — Pick and put on ice about 
three pints of red-ripe strawberries in a large crystal compot-dish ; mix 
a gill of very consistent syrup with a pint of good sauterne or marsala 
wine ; put this into a sorbetiere (freezer) ; freeze in the ordinary way • 
spread this over the berries, and serve immediately. 



Xo. 163. 

Monday, June 11. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Green pea, 4 la St. Germain. 

Spanish mackerel a la maitre d' hotel ; 
Stewed potatoes. 

Minced fillet of beef; 
New carrots a 1' Espagnole. 

Broiled sweetbreads, sauce Colbert ; 
Beet and chiccory salad. 

St. Honore cake aux fraises. 

Green Pea, H la St. Germain.— Put two quarts of fresh-shelled, 
large marrow peas in a saucepan with boiling water enough to cover, 



274 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

salt, a handful of parsley tied with two green onions, and an ounce of 
butter ; boil quickly until tender ; strain the liquid and pound the 
peas, then dilute the peas with the liquid and enough good white broth, 
and rub through a sieve ; stir in a saucepan two eggs, six egg-yolks, 
and a little cream ; press through a napkin, dilute with a half-pint of 
puree, pour into eight or more small, buttered, plain timbale-moulds ; 
range in a sautoir filled with boiling water to half the height of the moulds 
and let simmer until firm; a few moments before serving dilute the puree 
to the desired consistency, and stir steadily on a brisk fire until boiling; 
skim, put in two ounces of butter and a teaspoonful of sugar ; mix, 
pour into a soup-tureen, and serve with the timbales separately on a 
dish, one for each person. 

Spanish Mackerel a la Maitre d' Hotel. — Procure one large 
or two medium-sized Spanish mackerel ; draw by the gills, wash, and 
pare nicely ; slit down the back from head to tail ; remove the spine, 
wipe dry, season with salt and pepper ; oil all over and broil slowly and 
well ; slide on a dish and pour over about four ounces of half-melted 
maitre d' hotel sauce, adding a little chopped chives ; serve with 
quartered lemons on a plate. 

Stewed Potatoes.— [No. 8i.] 

Minced Fillet of Beef (when a fillet of beef has been served it 
is well to save the remnants for the next day's dinner). — Pare slightly 
and cut some cold roasted fillet in large thin slices ; put in a sautoir 
two ounces of butter with two tablespoonfuls of chopped and pressed 
shallots ; fry slightly brown, drain part of the butter off, moisten with 
a glass of white wine, a little broth, and a pint of espagnole sauce ; 
season with mignonette and a little red pepper, boil a few minutes, and 
skim off the fat ; then add the fillet, cover the sautior and warm through 
without boiling ; dish up in a circle; add two ounces of butter, chopped 
parsley, and lemon-juice to the sauce, and mix well ; pour the sauce 
over, and serve. 

New Carrots a 1' Espagnole.— Pare some new carrots ; slit in 
two or four pieces, according to size ; parboil, drain, put in a saucepan 
with an ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of sugar, and white broth to 
nearly cover ; cover the saucepan, and boil until tender and the liquid 
reduced to a glaze ; add two ladlefuls of espagnole sauce, two ounces 
of butter in small bits, pepper, and nutmeg ; mix gently, pour into a 
dish, and serve. 

Broiled Sweetbreads, Sauce Colbert.— Select four very large 
or eight medium-sized heart sweetbreads ; pare, and steep in cold water 
for three hours ; parboil until thoroughly firm ; cool, drain, and press 



COOKERY BOOK. 275 

between two tin sheets ; slit horizontally in two, wipe dry, immerse in 
melted butter, besprinkle with fresh crumbs, and broil slowly and thor- 
oughly; dish up, one piece partly overlapping the other; pour a colbert 
sauce round the dish, press lemon-juice over, and serve. 

Beet and Chiccory Salad. — Prepare a plain chiccory salad [No. 
359] ^^'^ the addition of finely sliced beets instead of capon or garlic. 

St. Honore Cake aux Praises. — Prepare a St. Honore crust as 
directed [No. 151], but range on the border large strawberries dipped in 
caramel sugar, instead of small round cakes ; melt an ounce of gelatine 
in two gills of water, mix with a pint of strawberry pulp, and half a 
pound of sugar flavored with half a vanilla-bean ; stir on ice, 
and when the preparation begins to congeal mix thoroughly with a 
quart of hard-whipt cream [No. 77] ; pour in a dome form into 
the cake, cool an hour, and serve. 

We may remark here, that in the choice of condiments we have 
invariably consulted the season and the markets. 



No. 163. 

Tuesday, June 12. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Chicken-broth a la Nif oise. 

Fillets of king-fish a la Colbert ; 
Potatoes sautees. 

Breast of mutton with fresh beans ; 
Cucumbers a 1' Italienne. 

Paupiettes of veal with puree of mushrooms ; 
Lettuce salad i la Sotteville. 



White-currant Jelly. 

Chicken-Broth ^ la Ni^oise. — Make three quarts of chicken- 
broth as directed [No. 310], cooking in it six ounces of ham ; pare, and 
cook separately in a little white broth reduced to a glaze, a dozen small 
new carrots cut in quarters, two dozen small white onions, some white 
turnips cut in small shapes, the white of four leeks cut in short pieces, 
and the inner leaves of a small cabbage cut in small squares ; take the 
meat of the fowl boiled in the broth, cut it small, put it in a soup-tureen 
with the prepared vegetables and a cupful of cooked rice ; strain the 
well-skimmed broth over this, and serve. 

Fillets of King-Fish it la Colbert. — Take the fillets of four 
medium-sized king-fish ; remove the skin, pare slightly, and season with 
salt and pepper ; roll in flour, dip in beaten eggs, roll again in bread- 
crumbs, flatten a little to smooth the surface, fry light brown and crisp 



276 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

in very hot fat, drain on a cloth, and salt a little ; put some cold mattre 
d* hotel sauce on a hot dish, range the fillets over, surround with fried 
parsley and two quartered lemons, and serve. 

Breast of Mutton with Fresh Beans. — Select two short breasts 
of not too fat mutton ; pare off the ends and front red bones ; 
put the breasts in a stewpan with the parings, sliced carrots, and onions, 
and a bunch of parsley, with aromatics ; moisten with light broth, 
cover, and boil slowly until the rib-bones come off easily ; remove 
these, pare the breasts slightly, and keep warm ; skim the fat, straiYi, 
and reduce the liquid to the consistency of a demi-glaze sauce ; cook 
some flageolet-beans as directed [No. i88], season with salt and pepper, 
chopped parsley, two ounces of butter, and part of the sauce ; mix 
well, and pour on a dish ; put the mutton thereon, pour the rest of the 
sauce over, and serve. 

Cucumbers a 1' Italienne, — Pare, stuff, and cook some cucum- 
bers as directed [No. 135] ; drain, cut crosswise in inch-thick pieces, 
range in layers on a dish, besprinkle each layer with grated parmesan 
cheese, pour a very hot and well-reduced veloute sauce over, and serve. 

Paupiettes of Veal with Puree of Mushrooms. — Cut eight 
or more thin slices of lean of veal, flatten well, and cover on one side 
with cooked veal force-meat [No. 314] ; roll up the slices separately in 
the shape of a large cork, tie them to preserve the form, range in a but- 
tered sautoir with sliced onions and a small bunch of parsley with 
aromatics ; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg; cover with thin bardes 
of fat pork, moisten with a pint of white broth, boil quickly, and cook 
in a moderate oven for about forty minutes, taking care to baste the 
surface occasionally with the gravy ; remove the pork, drain, untie, and 
pare slightly ; strain, free the gravy of its fat, and reduce it to a demi- 
glaze ; pour this over the paupiettes and keep hot ; prepare some puree 
of mushrooms [No. 156], spread on a dish, range the paupiettes in a 
pyramidal form in the centre, surround with heart-shaped slices of 
bread fried in butter, pour the sauce over, and serve. 

White-Currant Jelly. — Pick and boil a pound of white currants 
for a minute or so in three pints of clear syrup at thirty degrees (pese 
syrop) ; cover, and let steep an hour ; dissolve and clarify an ounce 
and a half of gelatine with a pint of water, the juice of a lemon, and 
two egg-whites [No. 2] ; strain the syrup through a jelly-bag, and mix 
with the clarified gelatine ; fill a jelly-mould of adequate size, cool 
thoroughly, immerse in tepid water, turn on a folded napkin or on a 
compot-dish, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 277 

No. 164. 

Wednesday, June 13. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Puree of string-beans a la Savart. 

Sheep's-head a la Mobile ; 
Potatoes a la Lyonnaise. 

Lamb fries, English style ; 
Sorrel wilh soft eggs. 

Porterhouse steak a la Parisienne ; 
Artichoke salad. 

Bavarois a la vanilla. 

Puree of String-Beans ^ la Savart. — Thicken five pints of 
clear white broth with four ounces of flour cooked in butter, and set 
to boil on the side of the fire for half an hour ; this done, skim thor- 
oughly, and press through a napkin ; pick, break, wash, and cook 
about two pounds of string-beans in salted water ; drain, and put 
them in a sautoir with four ounces of melted butter, white pepper, and 
nutmeg ; fry long enough to evaporate the moisture, put them in a 
mortar, and pound to a pulp ; dilute with two ladlefuls of thickened 
soup, six egg-yolks, and two gills of raw cream, and rub through a fine 
sieve ; add the residue to the soup ; stir continually with a wooden 
spoon until very hot but not boiling ; add two ounces of butter and a 
little sugar, pour into a soup-tureen with small green peas and string- 
beans cut in short pieces, and serve. 

Sheep's-Head a la Mobile. — Procure a large and thick dressed 
sheep's-head ; slice transversely in eight or more pieces, truss the head 
whole, put it to cook in a buttered saucepan with a little broth ; put 
the slices in a sautoir with six sliced tomatoes peeled and freed of 
seeds, two sliced onions, a bunch of parsley with aromatics, some pars- 
ley-leaves, two bruised cloves of garlic, salt, mignonette and sweet 
chilli pepper ; moisten with wine and broth to nearly cover the fish ; 
put a buttered paper over, set to boil, and let the whole simmer for 
about forty minutes ; drain, and reconstruct the fish on an oval 
dish ; remove the bunch of parsley, thicken the sauce and condiments 
with an ounce and a half of flour slightly browned in butter ; stir, 
and boil down to the consistency of a thick sauce, add two pats of 
butter and the juice of a lemon ; see if the fish is well drained, pour 
the sauce over, and serve. 

Lamb Fries, English Style. — Pare off, remove the pellicle, and 
slit in two or three pieces a dozen or more lamb fries ; season with 
salt, pepper, and lemon-juice; roll in flour, immerse in beaten eggs, and 
roll again in fresh bread-crumbs ; fry slightly brown and not too many 



2/8 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

at a time in plenty of clear and pretty hot fat ; drain on a cloth, salt a 
little, dish up on a folded napkin with a handful of parsley on top, and 
quartered lemons round the dish, and serve with a tomato sauce in a 
sauce-bowl. If the fat is hot enough for frying, a few drops of water 
thrown in will crackle sharply, or a thin slice of bread plunged in it 
will crisp promptly. 

Sorrel with Soft Eggs. — Pick off the stems of sufficient sorrel- 
leaves, wash thoroughly in plenty of water, drain, and put in a sauce- 
pan with four ounces of melted butter ; stir on a brisk fire, and boil 
ten minutes ; cook slightly three tablespoonfuls of flour in butter with 
a chopped onion ; dilute with the sorrel and boiled milk, season with 
salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and let simmer twenty minutes ; add two 
pats of butter, and three eggs beaten as for an omelet ; mix well, rub 
through a colander, and keep warm ; cook eight eggs in boiling water 
for five and a half minutes, immerse an instant in cold water, and re- 
move the shells ; pour the sorrel into a deep dish, range the eggs over, 
and serve. 

Porterhouse Steaks a la Parisienne. — Chop off the spine, 
flatten, and pare two porterhouse steaks ; season with salt and pepper ; 
baste with oil, and broil rather rare over a charcoal fire ; put in a dish, 
surround with small, new round potatoes fried in butter ; mask the 
steaks with a hardly-melted maitre d' hotel sauce mingled with two 
tablespoonfuls of beef-extract, and serve. 

Bavarois a la Vanille. — Proceed exactly as directed [No. ii6], 
but use an infusion of a vanilla-bean and two ounces more of melted 
sugar, instead of sugar and caramel. 



No. 165. 

Thursday June 14. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Beef palate, a la Parisienne. 

Deviled lobster ; 
Potatoes a la Colbert. 



Ducks braised a la Bourgeoise ; 
Stewed beets. 



Lamb pie a la Windsor ; 
Strinjj-beaii salad. 



Mousse aux framboises. 

Beef Palate ^ la Parisienne.— Steep four white and thick beef 
palates in tepid water for an hour ; parboil, cool, scrape off the pellicle, 
and cook for about two hours in white broth with thin slices of ham, 



COOKERY BOOK. 279 

sliced vegetables, and aromatics, including a little sweet basil and sage; 
drain, press gently between two tin sheets with a weight on top, and let 
cool ; strain and free the liquid of its fat, add enough strong beef-broth 
to make about three quarts, thicken with three ounces of flour browned 
in butter, add mignonette and a pinch of red pepper, and boil on the 
side of the fire for half an hour ; pare off and cut the palates in half- 
inch rounds or squares, put in a saucepan with two gills of madeira 
wine, and boil five minutes ; skim, and press the thickened soup 
through a napkin, over this, and boil five minutes longer ; skim again, 
pour into a soup-tureen, and serve with slices of lemon, pared and freed 
of seeds, separately on a plate. 

Deviled Lobster. — Boil two medium-sized lobsters in salted and 
acidulated water for half an hour ; let them cool, slit open, remove the 
stony pouch and intestine ; pick the creamy substance and all the 
meat and coral from the body, tail, and claws, and chop it fine ; save 
the large shells, pare and range them in a baking-pan ; put in a sauce- 
pan two tablespoonfuls of chopped shallots, with two ounces of butter; 
fry, to evaporate the moisture, without browning ; sprinkle an ounce 
of flour over, fry a little longer, dilute with a pint of broth ; add the 
lobster, salt, white and red pepper, a little Worcestershire sauce, and 
two handfuls of moistened and pressed bread-crumbs ; stir steadily and 
boil five minutes ; add four egg-yolks, chopped parsley, and lemon- 
juice ; mix well, fill the eight prepared shells, besprinkle with bread- 
crumbs, put small bits of butter on top, and bake slightly brown in a 
pretty hot oven for ten minutes ; range on a folded napkin, surround 
with two quartered lemons, and serve with a deviled sauce [No. 109] 
in a sauce-bowl. 

Ducks Braised a la Bourgeoise. — Singe, draw, and truss 
nicely two tender tame ducks ; cut four ounces of salt pork in small 
squares, parboil, drain, and put in a saucepan with two ounces of but- 
ter ; fry slightly brown, add the ducks, and fry a little longer ; drain 
most of the fat off, sprinkle an ounce of flour over, mix well, dilute 
with a pint and a half of tepid broth, and set to boil, w'hile stirring a 
little to dilute the flour ; add white pepper, a bunch of parsley, a pint 
of green peas, a pint of peeled and quartered turnips, and a few small 
onions, both slightly browned in butter ; cover and boil slowly for about 
forty minutes ; drain, untie, and dish up the ducks ; skim off the fat, 
remove the parsley, see if the sauce is reduced enough, then pour the 
whole over and round the ducks, and serve. 

Lamb Pie a la Windsor. — Cut about four pounds of loin of 
lamb in thin cutlets ; remove the spine, flatten, remove also the super- 



280 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

fluous fat, and season with salt and pepper ; put in a santoir with 
melted butter, fry slightly on both sides, add chopped shallots and 
mushrooms, fry a little longer, moisten with two glasses of white wine 
and a pint of veloute sauce, cover, and let simmer ten minutes ; range 
in a deep earthen or china baking-dish, one cutlet slightly overlapping 
the other, with the fleshy end up ; pour the sauce over, besprinkle with 
chopped parsley, smooth as evenly as possible, and cool partially ; 
cover with feuilletage paste, finish, cook, and serve as directed for pigeon 
pie in No. 157. 

Mousse aux Framboises. — Proceed exactly as directed [No. 
133] for mousse aux fraises, but use raspberries instead of strawberries. 



No. 166. 

Friday, June 15.— Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Cream of sorrel i la Navarrin. 

Sliced salmon with cucumbers ; 
Mashed and baked potatoes. 

Stewed mutton with turnips ; 
Lettuce au veloute. 



Fried sweetbreads, tomato sauce ; 
Romaine salad, sauce Mayonnaise. 

Cherry pie, French style. 

Cream of Sorrel ^ la Navarrin. — Pick the stems and wash thor- 
oughly enough sorrel leaves to make a pint of consistent puree ; put 
it in a saucepan with two ounces of butter ; boil ten minutes and 
rub through a colander ; cook slightly four ounces of flour in the same 
quantity of butter ; dilute with the sorrel and two quarts of white- 
broth ; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, stir, boil ten minutes, and 
press forcibly through a Venetian cloth or hair-sieve (never use a metal 
sieve for acrid substances, as they impart either an iron, or if of brass- 
wire, an unhealthy bitter taste) ; return the residue to the sauce- 
pan, stir and boil again ; add a pint of boiling cream and two ounces 
of butter ; mix well but boil no longer ; pour into a soup-tureen over 
some small green peas, carrots, and turnips cut in small squares, and 
cooked separately ; cover, and serve. 

Sliced Salmon with Cucumbers. — Take a tail-piece of salmon 
weighing about four pounds ; cut transversely in eight or more pieces ; 
put in a buttered sautoir with salt, pepper, a chopped onion, and a 
bunch of parsley with aromatics ; moisten with a gill of white wine and 
three gills of broth ; cover, boil, and let simmer half an hour ; tlien 



COOKERY BOOK. 281 

remove the parsley, strain, and thicken the liquid with an ounce of 
flour cooked in butter ; stir, boil ten minutes, and press through a nap- 
kin ; pare off, quarter, remove the seeds, and cut three cucumbers in 
inch-and-a-half lengths ; parboil, drain, fry slightly brown in butter 
with a little sugar ; drain again, put them in the sauce, and let simmer 
until tender ; dish up and reconstruct the salmon, add the juice of a 
lemon, and two ounces of butter to the sauce ; pour the whole over 
and around the fish, and serve. 

Stewed Mutton with Turnips. — Cut up the lower ribs and a 
breast of mutton ; put in a saucepan with two ounces of butter, stir, 
and let brown over a brisk nre ; drain the fat off ; sprinkle two table- 
spoonfuls of sifted flour over the meat, fry a little longer, dilute with light 
broth or lukewarm water to nearly cover ; set on the fire and stir oc- 
casionally until boiling ; add salt, pepper, a bunch of parsley inclosing 
a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, three cloves, and a clove of garlic ; cover 
and boil slowly ; when three fourths doneoadd about a dozen white 
turnips, quartered and pared, and a dozen small onions, both slightly 
sugared and browned in butter ; cover and let simmer again until 
tender ; take the parsley out, skim the fat, dish up in a pyramidal form, 
pour the sauce and vegetables over, and serve. 

Lettuce au Veloute. — Pare off the greenest leaves and parboil 
eight lettuce-stalks ; cool, gently press the water out, range in a buttered 
sautoir ; add salt, pepper, nutmeg, and large thin slices of fat pork on 
top ; moisten with white broth, cover, and let simmer an hour and a 
half ; drain on a cloth, shape nicely, and range in a dish ; remove the 
fat, add two ladlefuls of veloute sauce to the well-reduced gravy in the 
sautoir, boil a minute, pour over the lettuce, and serve. 

Fried Sweetbreads, Tomato Sauce. — Pare, steep in cold 
water, parboil, press, cool, and slit four or more heart sweetbreads as 
directed [No. 162] ; season with salt and pepper, dust with flour, dip 
in beaten eggs, roll in fresh bread-crumbs, smooth and fry until well 
done and slightly browned in a sautoir with clarified butter ; drain on 
a cloth, dish up in a row, one slice resting slightly upon another ; pour 
a tomato sauce round the dish, and serve. 

Cherry Pie, French Style. — Pick and remove the pits of two 
pounds of large, red cherries ; roll them in fresh melted butter, and 
then in powdered sugar ; put in the centre of a prepared paste as di- 
rected [No 153], for strawberry pie ; cover, finish, cook, and serve in 
the same way, though the paste may be a little thicker, as the pie takes 
a longer time to bake. 



282 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 167. 

Saturday, June i6. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Lamb, a la Piemontaise. 

Broiled blue-fish, mustard sauce ; 
Fried potatoes a la Bordelaise. 

Calf's feet a la poulette ; 
Stewed cabbage a la Navarraise. 

Mutton-steaks a la Chateaubriand ; 
Vegetable salad a la Dieppoise. 

Strawberry cake, English style. 

Lamb Soup a la Piemontaise. — Bone, pare off the fat and 

sinews, and cut a good-sized shoulder of lamb in small squares ; put 
in a saucepan with three ounces of butter, stir, and fry on a brisk fire 
until the moisture is evaporated ; sprinkle three ounces of sifted flour 
over, fry a little longer without browning, dilute with three quarts of 
tepid and well-strained rich white broth, in which a scrap of lamb, the 
shoulder-bones, and parings have been cooked ; add a garnished bunch 
of parsley with two leeks tied together, an onion with three cloves stuck 
in it, and a little pepper, and boil on the side of the fire for forty min- 
utes ; skim off the fat, remove the parsley and onion, add a pint (when 
done) of piedmontese rice cooked in broth ; boil a few minutes longer, 
skim, and serve. 

Broiled Blue-Fish, Mustard Sauce. — Pare off the head, tail, 
and fins of a well-cleaned four-pound blue-fish ; slit open down the 
back, remove the spine, wipe dry, season with salt and pepper, baste 
with oil, and broil thoroughly in an oiled double gridiron over a mod- 
erate charcoal fire ; slide on a dish, the inner side uppermost, pour a 
little melted butter and lemon-juice over, and serve with a mustard 
sauce [No. 341] in a sauce-bowl. 

Calf's Feet a la Poulette. — Procure a set (four) of large and 
very white, scalded calves' feet ; remove the shank-bone and fatty lump 
from between the hoofs, slit in two, and steep in cold water for an 
hour ; fold over and tie each piece with a string, parboil five minutes, 
cool, and drain ; dilute in a saucepan two ounces of flour with a gallon 
of water, add the feet, salt, pepper-corns, a gill of vinegar, a bunch of 
parsley with aromatics, and sliced carrots and onions ; stir to boiling, 
cover, and cook slowly until tender ; drain on a cloth, untie, and 
remove the hoof-bone ; range on a dish, pour a poulette sauce [No. 
261] over, and serve. 

Stewed Cabbage a la Navarraise. — Pare off the green leaves, 
quarter, and remove the cores of two or three cabbages ; parboil, cool. 



COOKERY BOOK. 283 

press the water out, and cut the cabbages in pieces ; season with salt, 
pepper, and nutmeg ; put in a saucepan with four ounces of melted 
butter, stir, and fry a little ; add a well-garnished bunch of parsley, 
including four cloves and two cloves of garlic, a pint of veloute sauce, 
and two gills of broth ; set to boil, cover, and cook about an hour ; see 
if the liquid is reduced to a thick sauce ; remove the parsley, heap up 
the cabbage on a dish ; pour a little veloute sauce round the dish, and 
serve. 

Mutton-Steaks d la Chateaubriand. — Cut four or more pretty 
thick mutton-steaks through the rump and round a tender leg ; pare, 
flatten slightly, season with salt and pepper, dip in melted butter, 
besprinkle with fresh crumbs, and broil slightly brown and rather rare; 
range on a dish, surround with small, new, round potatoes fried in but- 
ter ; pour a colbert sauce over the steaks, and serve. 

Vegetable Salad ^ la Dieppoise. — Prepare a salad of cooked 
vegetables as directed [No. 91], and range in a salad-bowl ; slit, and 
remove the spine and head of two smoked red herrings ; steep them in 
boiling-hot water for five minutes, drain on a cloth, pare off the skin 
and bones, and cut in shreds ; range them nicely over the salad, add 
chopped chives, chervil, and tarragon, and serve with a caster of salad 
ingredients. 

Strawberry Cake, English Style. — Butter and line a pastry- 
circle with feuilletage paste ; line the paste with a buttered paper, fill 
with cherry- or plum-pits, then bake and empty it ; baste with syrup, 
dry and cool as directed [No. 156] ; put for an hour in a pastry- vessel 
enough strawberries with powdered sugar to fill the cake, cover with 
an inch thick of sweetened whipped cream [No. 77], and serve 
immediately. 



No. 168. 

Sunday, June 17. — Bill of fare for eight persons: 

Soup : Pea, i la villageoise. 

Baked weak-fish ; 
Stewed potatoes. 

Carbonades of lamb k la Bechamel; 
New carrots a la bourgeoise. 

Tenderloin steaks, madeira sauce ; 
Lettuce and egg salad. 

Moscowite with currants. 

Pea Soup ^ la Villageoise. — Cut in pieces and put in a soup- 
boiler four pounds of soup-beef, with salt and two gallons of cold 



284 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

water ; boil slowly, scum well ; garnish with carrots, turnips, a parsnip, 
a bunch of leeks, and an onion with three cloves stuck in it ; cover 
partially and let simmer three hours ; add a pint of fresh-shelled peas 
in a quart, perforated, metallic, tinned, and spherical hinged ball, or in 
a small linen bag, and boil an hour longer ; cut and dry thin slices of 
french bread, put them in a soup-tureen ; add the peas and the thinly 
sliced carrots and turnips from the soup ; free the broth of its fat, tint 
slightly with a little caramel ; strain about three quarts of it over the 
bread and vegetables ; cover, and serve. 

Baked W^eak-Fish. — Procure about four pounds of medium-sized 
weak-fish ; scale and cleanse well, make small incisions on both sides ; 
range on a buttered baking-dish with chopped onion, parsley, and 
mushrooms, salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; moisten with two glasses of 
white wine and white broth, put small pieces of butter over, set to boil, 
and then cook in the oven for twenty minutes ; drain, and thicken the 
liquid with an ounce of flour kneaded with butter, pour this over the 
fish ; scatter fine bread-crumbs over, add small bits of butter on top, 
and bake about twelve minutes longer ; press lemon-juice over, and 
serve in the baking-dish. 

Carbonades of Lamb a la Bechamel. — Take two fillets of 
lamb (a saddle), cut lengthwise in two ; remove the spine and the 
superfluous fat, pare off and fasten small oblongs of fat pork on the 
surface of the large fillet ; shape the fillets nicely and tie with strings ; 
place in a sautoir, the larded side uppermost, with sliced vegetables, 
lard and lamb trimmings, a little salt, and a bunch of parsley ; moisten 
with two glasses of white wine and white broth to half the height of 
the meat ; cover with a buttered paper, and cook in a moderately 
heated oven for about an hour and a half, basting the larding fre- 
quently with the gravy ; strain and free the liquid of every particle of 
grease, and reduce to the consistency of a demi-glazc ; have on a dish 
two thick slices of fried bread about the size of the fillets ; untie, pare, 
and put the meat upon them; pour some bechamel sauce round all and 
the demi-glaze over ; serve with more bechamel sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

New Carrots a la Bourgeoise. — Pare nicely (do not scrape) 
some new carrols ; parboil two minutes, drain ; put in a saucepan with 
two ounces of butter, a little sugar, and white broth enough to cover 
the carrots ; cover the saucepan, and cook about forty minutes ; reduce 
the liquid one half, add half an ounce of flour kneaded in butter, mix 
well by slightly tossing the carrots, boil a minute, add two parts of 
butter, and serve. 

Tenderloin Steaks, Madeira Sauce.— Flatten and pare off most 



COOKERY BOOK. 285 

of the fat and sinews of four large tenderloin steaks, and season with 
salt and pepper ; heat four ounces of melted beef-fat or butter in a 
sautoir ; add the steaks, turn them once only, and fry slightly brown 
on both sides and rather rare ; drain the steaks, remove the fat, add 
two glasses of madeira wine, a little broth, and a pint of espagnole 
sauce in the sautoir ; reduce to the desired consistency, dish up in a 
row, one steak overlapping the other, strain the sauce over, and serve. 
Moscowite with Currants. — Pick, and press through a fine 
sieve into an earthen vessel enough ripe currants to obtain a pint and 
a half of juice ; add twelve ounces of powdered sugar and an ounce of 
gelatine diluted in two gills of water ; stir on ice with a wooden spoon 
until the preparation thickens and gets frothy ; add about the same 
quantity of whipt cream [No. 77] ; mix well, fill a cylindrical mould, 
cover hermetically, imbed in a pail of salted ice for two hours, and 
serve in the ordinary way. 



No. 169. 

Monday, June 18. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Consomme a la Crecy. 

Soft-shell crabs i 1' Indienne ; 
Hashed potatoes with fine herbs. 

Stewed pigeons a la bourgeoise ; 
String-beans a la Very. 

Fore-quarter of lamb 4 la Winchester ; 
Lettuce and egg salad. 

St. Honore cake a 1' ananas. 

Consomme ^ la Crecy. — Prepare three quarts of broth as di- 
rected [No. 133] ; pare off about a quart of new carrots ; cut them in 
slices about a quarter of an inch round ; put in a saucepan with an 
ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of sugar, and broth to nearly cover ; set 
on the fire, cover the saucepan, and boil until tender and the liquid 
reduced to a glaze ; put them in the broth, boil a minute, skim, and 
pour into a soup-tureen over two french rolls cut in thin slices and 
dried in the oven. 

Soft-Shell Crabs ^ 1' Indienne. — Take a dozen of soft-shell 
crabs, more or less, according to size ; remove the flaps, small legs, 
and gills ; wash, drain, and cut each crab in four or six pieces ; melt 
in a saucepan four ounces of butter with two tablespoonfuls of chopped 
onion ; stir and fry until the moisture is evaporated ; add an ounce 
of sifted 'flour and two tablespoonfuls of curry powder or paste ; mix 
well, dilute with a quart of broth, and stir to boiling ; add the crabs, a 



286' FRANCO-AMERICAN 

little salt, and a bunch of parsley tied with the rind of a lemon, and boil 
about half an hour ; meanwhile wash thoroughly and boil a pint and a 
half of rice in three quarts of slightly salted water for twenty minutes ; 
drain in a colander, put in a moistened or slightly buttered border- 
mould ; take off the parsley from the crabs, taste and see if the sauce is 
of the desired consistency ; dish it up in the centre of the rice border 
turned on a dish, and serve. 

Stewed Pigeons a la Bourgeoise. — Singe, dress, and truss 
nicely four or more fat and tender stall-fed pigeons ; put in a saucepan 
four ounces of salt pork cut in small squares, with two ounces of but- 
ter ; fry slightly brown, add the pigeons, and fry a little longer ; -drain 
part of the fat off and sprinkle an ounce of flour over the pigeons ; mix 
well, dilute with a pint and a half of broth, stir, and set to boil ; add a 
bunch of parsley, a dozen small onions slightly browned in butter, a 
dozen small new carrots slit in two, and a pint of fresh-shelled green 
peas ; cover and cook slowly about forty minutes ; take off the fat and 
parsley, range the pigeons on a dish, pour the sauce and garnishing over, 
and serve. 

String-Beans ^ la Very. — Pick, string, wash, and cut trans- 
versely some string-beans in short pieces ; cook in salted water, drain, 
and put in a sautoir with two ounces of butter, salt, pepper, and nut- 
meg ; toss a few minutes over a brisk fire ; add a ladleful of velout6 
sauce, two more ounces of butter in small bits, and lemon-juice ; mix 
well, pour into a dish, and serve. 

Fore-Quarter of Lamb a la Winchester. — Take a fat fore- 
quarter of lamb ; remove the scrag, prepare, and cook as directed [No. 
263] ; when done, with a sharp knife lift partly the shoulder near the 
breast and insert so that it will be imperceptible two ounces of partly 
melted maitre d' hotel sauce ; dish up, add a little broth to the drip- 
pings, skim off the fat, strain over the meat, and serve with a goose- 
berry sauce [No. 148] made with veloute in a sauce-bowl. 

St. Honore Cake a 1' Ananas. — Prepare a crust of St. Honors 
cake as directed [No. 151], but range on the border a row of fancifully 
cut and glazed pieces of pineapple instead of small cakes ; mix a pint 
of pineapple pulp with an ounce of gelatine dissolved in two gills of 
water and half a pound of sugar ; stir on ice until the preparation com- 
mences to thicken ; then mix thoroughly and carefully with a quart of 
well-whipt cream [No. 77] ; pour this into the cake, cool, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 287 



No. 170. 

Tuesday, June 19. — Bill of fare for eight persons: 
Soup : Puree of water-cress. 

Hure of salmon a la Proven9ale ; 
Potatoes a la Bretonne, 



Calf's ear with mushrooms ; 
Haricots panaches. 

Roast chicken a 1' Ttalienne ; 
Roman salad. 



Cherry fritters. 

Puree of Water-Cress. — Pick, wash, and boil four bunches of 
water-cress with a quart of slightly salted water for five minutes ; drain 
in a colander, and save the water; then pound to a puree with two ounces 
of butter ; melt three ounces of butter with four ounces of flour ; cook 
a little, dilute with two quarts of veal-broth and the cress-water, and 
boil fifteen minutes ; skim, add the cress, mingle without boiling, and 
rub the whole through a very fine hair-sieve ; return to the saucepan, 
stir steadily until very hot; finish with a liaison of four egg-yolks, a cup 
of cream, and two ounces of butter ; mix well, pour into a soup-tureen, 
add small squares of bread fried in butter, and serve. 

Hure of Salmon a la Provengale. — Procure a head-piece of 
salmon weighing about five pounds ; clean, and pare nicely , truss the 
head to the body and put in a saucepan with salt, spices, a bunch of 
parsley, aromatics, a sliced onion, and carrots ; wet with a gill of white- 
wine vinegar and water to an inch over the fish ; cover with a buttered 
paper, and cook an hour ; put a tablespoonful of chopped shallot and 
a bruised clove of garlic in a saucepan with four tablespoonfuls of 
sweet oil ; fry a little ; add a pint of espagnol.e and a half pint of to- 
mato sauce, a little white and red pepper ; stir, and boil five minutes, 
finish with lemon-juice and chopped parsley ; drain, and dish up the 
salmon, remove the upper skin, surround with stoned and parboiled 
olives ; pour the sauce over, and serve. 

Calfs Ear with Mushrooms. — Steep in cold water, parboil, 
pare, and cook four or more calves' ears as directed [No. 22] ; drain on 
a cloth, make the horn curl by slitting all around, and range the ears 
on a dish ; put a pint of cooked mushrooms in a good madeira sauce, 
pour this over the ears, surround with heart-shaped slices of bread fried 
in butter, and serve. 

Haricots Panaches. — Pick, string, cut in short pieces, and cook 
some string-beans in salted water ; cook also the same quantity of 
fresh-shelled white beans (flageolets) in slightly salted water with a 



288 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

little butter ; drain well, and put all together in a saucepan with four 
ounces of butter, salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; heat well, add chopped 
parsley and lemon-juice, and serve. 

Chickens Roasted a 1' Italienne. — Dress two tender and dry- 
picked chickens ; chop fine some chives, parsley, mushrooms, and the 
chicken livers ; mingle these with two tablespoonfuls of fresh crumbs, 
an ounce of rasped lard, an ounce of butter, salt, and pepper ; put this 
into the chickens, truss, and tie both ends firmly, cover the breast with 
a barde of fat pork, wrap in oiled paper, and roast on the spit for about 
fifty minutes ; meanwhile put in a saucepan some chopped chives, pars- 
ley, and tarragon with a gill of white wine, a gill of oil, salt, and pep- 
per ; boil two minutes, add the pulp of a lemon deprived of seeds and 
cut in small pieces, and a liaison of four egg-yolks ; mix well with a 
small egg-whip, and stir and thicken on the fire without curdling the 
eggs ; unwrap and dish up the chickens, pour the prepared sauce 
over, and serve. 

Cherry Fritters. — Pick, and remove the pits from a pound of 
hard cherries ; make a thick syrup with about six ounces of loaf-sugar 
in a rather large, untinned copper basin ; add the cherries, and stir on 
a moderate fire until the moisture is nearly evaporated and the syrup 
pretty consistent ; then turn into an earthen vessel to cool ; prepare 
some two-inch-wide round cuts of wafer-bread, overlay with cherries, 
mask with syrup ; lay a similarly cut wafer on top, press gently, smooth 
the edge, dip in a flour-batter mixed with whipt egg-whites ; fry of 
a nice color, drain on a cloth, besprinkle with powdered sugar, pile in 
circles on a folded napkin, and serve. 



No. 171. 

Wednesday, June 20. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Puree of onions a la Nassau. 

Boiled king-fish a la Hollandaise : 
Plain boiled potatoes. 

Beef pudding, English style ; 
Stuffed cabbage a la St. Denis. 

Lamb chops a la Villeroi ; 
Lettuce salad with chervil. 

Raspberries and cream. 

Puree of Onions ^ la Nassau. — Pave six or eight large ber- 
muda onions, cutting off the stems and roots (they always impart 
an acrid taste) ; slice, parboil five minutes, drain, and gently press the 



COOKERY BOOK. 289 

water out ; melt in a saucepan four ounces of butter, add the onions, 
salt, white pepper, and nutmeg ; stir to boiling, cover, and cook slowly 
for half an hour ; sprinkle four ounces of sifted flour over, mix well, 
dilute with two quarts of white broth and a quart of boiling cream, stir 
steadily, and boil ten minutes ; rub through a fine sieve, return to the 
stewpan, stir, and heat nearly to a boil, finish with two ounces of butter 
in small bits, a teaspoonful of sugar, and a gill of raw cream ; mix well, 
boil no longer, pour into a tureen, and serve with small squares of bread, 
fried in butter and well drained. 

Boiled King-Fish ^ la Hollandaise. — Take two very large king- 
fish (small ones do not boil well) ; draw by the gills, scale and cleanse 
well ; place them on the belly upon the perforated leaf of a narrow fish- 
boiler ; cover with salted and acidulated water, add a garnished bunch 
of parsley, and put a sheet of paper over ; cover, boil slowly, and let 
simmer half an hour ; drain, slide on a folded napkin, surround with 
parsley-leaves, and serve with a hollandaise sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Beef Pudding, English Style. — Pick, remove the arteries, and 
chop fine a pound of beef suet ; sift a pound of flour on the table, make 
a hole in the centre ; put in the suet, a teaspoonful of salt, and a pint of 
water, and knead the whole together to make a consistent paste. 

Butter and line a pudding-bowl with a third of an inch flat of this 
paste ; fill with slices of tender sirloin or rump of beef, season with salt 
and pepper, wet the edge, cover with another flat of the same paste, and 
make it adhere perfectly ; butter and flour a large and strong napkin, 
cover the bowl and tie firmly underneath with a strong cord ; plunge 
in a stewpan of boiling water, and boil continually for about two hours ; 
remove the napkin, invert the bowl on a dish, let rest a while, take off 
the bowl, pour a well-reduced madeira sauce round the pudding, and 
serve. 

Stuffed Cabbage a la St. Denis.— Take two medium-sized 
solid cabbages, remove the loose leaves, wash well, and parboil fifteen 
minutes ; cool in fresh water, gently press the water out and put the 
cabbages on a cloth ; make a force-meat with half a pound of raw lean 
of veal and half a pound of fat pork ; chop fine and pound well ; season 
with salt and pepper, nutmeg and chopped parsley ; add four egg- 
yolks and mix well ; slit the cabbages, remove the cores, fill with the 
force-meat, reconstruct and enfold them in thin bardes of fat pork ; tie 
with strings, put in a saucepan, moisten with a quart of fat broth and a 
glass of sherry wine ; cover, and cook slowly for about two hours 
and until the liquid is reduced to a glaze ; drain, untie, remove the 
lard, and dish up the cabbage ; take off the fat and add two ladlefuls of 



290 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

brown sauce to the saucepan to dilute the glaze ; pour the sauce over 
the well-drained cabbages, and serve. 

Lamb Chops a la Villeroi. — Remove the spine, flatten and pare 
nicely eight large fat-covered lamb chops ; season with salt and pepper, 
and put in a sautoir with four ounces of melted butter ; fry slightly 
brown on both sides, drain and press between two tin sheets, with 
a weight on top ; immerse in a lukewarm and pretty consistent bechamel 
or alleraande sauce, range on a dish and cool thoroughly ; then roll in 
pulverized crackers, dip in beaten eggs and roll again in fresh 
crumbs, smooth nicely, and fry of a nice color ; dish up in a circle, 
fill the centre with fried parsley, put small paper ruffles on the bones, 
and serve. 

Raspberries with Cream. — Prepare and serve as directed [No. 
123] for strawberries. 

No. 172. 

Thursday, June 21. — Bill of fare for eight persons: 
Soup : Garbure with cucumbers. 

Black-fish a 1' Americaine ; 
Potato cakes. 

Rissoles of chicken, supreme sauce ; 
Haricots panaches. 

Haunch of mutton a la Languedocienne ; 
Tomato and onion salad. 



Currant tarts. 

Garbure with Cucumbers. — Peel three large and not too ripe 
cucumbers ; quarter, cut in inch lengths, and trim a little ; parboil 
three minutes, cool, drain well, besprinkle with a little sugar, and fry 
slightly brown in three ounces of clarified butter ; drain the butter off, 
moisten with a pint of beef-broth, set to boil, let simmer half an hour, 
and skim off the fat ; cut the upper crust of four french rolls in two, 
dry a little, put in a baking soup-bowl with a pint of strained broth 
from the surface of the soup-boiler, and bake in a moderate oven long 
enough to evaporate the moisture ; drain off the fat from the bread (if 
any), pour the prepared cucumbers over, and serve with two quarts of 
beef-broth in a soup-tureen, and grated parmesan cheese on a plate. 

Black-Fish ^ 1' Americaine.— Draw two large black-fish, trim, 
and wash well ; put in a large oval sautoir two large white onions 
chopped fine with two ounces of butter ; fry slightly brown, put the 
fish in the sautoir ; add salt, pepper, a pinch each of ground cloves, mace, 
and allspice, a bunch of parsley and leeks inclosing two bay-leaves and 



COOKERY BOOK. 291 

a sprig of thyme ; ttioi&ten with a pint of cold water and a gill of port 
wine, cover as tightly as possible, then boil and stew slowly for nearly 
an hour ; drain the liquid into a saucepan, thicken with an ounce 
of flour kneaded in butter, and boil five minutes ; remove the parsley 
and leeks, and slide the fish on a dish ; add two ounces of butter, 
lemon-juice, and chopped parsley to the sauce , pour this over the fish, 
and serve. 

Rissoles of Chicken, Supreme Sauce. — Pick up the meat 
from a large cold chicken, cut in very small squares with some mush- 
rooms ; put in a saucepan with two ladlefuls of veloute sauce, salt, 
pepper, nutmeg, and four egg-yolks ; set on the fire, stir steadily, and 
boil three minutes; add chopped parsley and lemon-juice, and turn into 
a plate to cool ; spread a long, thin strip of feuilletage paste on the table ; 
range on it butternut-sized heaps of the preparation, an inch and a 
half from the edge and two inches apart ; wet the edge and the spaces, 
fold the edge over, press gently to make the paste adhere, and divide 
in semicircular pieces with a three-inch paste-cutter ; trim straightly 
the remaining paste, and repeat the same operation until all the chicken 
is used up, and range the rissoles on a floured sheet ; a few moments 
before serving, immerse in beaten eggs, and fry a few at a time in 
plenty of clear, hot fat ; drain on a cloth, pile in circles on a folded 
napkin, put a handful of fried parsley on top, and serve with a supreme 
sauce [No. 128], in a sauce-bowl. 

Roast Haunch of Mutton ^ la Languedocienne. — Choose 
a fat and tender haunch of mutton (hip and leg) ; trim the handle 
bone, and insert two cloves of garlic in the knuckle, put on the 
spit and roast rather rare for about an hour and a quarter ; be- 
sprinkle with fine salt, and put on a dish ; skim off the fat, and add 
a ladleful of rich broth to the drippings ; strain this over the mutton, 
add a white-paper ruffle to the bone, and serve. 

Currant Tarts. — Butter eight or more small tart-moulds, line with 
tart-paste [No. 181], and then with a round buttered paper ; fill with 
cherry-pits or dried beans, and bake slightly brown ; remove the paper 
and pits ; baste all over with thick, warm syrup, and dry in the oven ; 
then let cool ; wash and pick some red currants, mix with powdered 
sugar, fill the tarts, and serve. Keep the cherry-pits or beans in a dry 
place to use again when wanted. 



292 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. ITS. 

Friday, June 22. — Bill of fare for eight persons. 
Soup : Frog, a la Normande. 

Sheep's-head, parsley sauce ; 
Potatoes, English style„ 

Mutton hash a la Portugaise ; 
Stuffed eggs a 1' Avigiionnaise. 

Roast squab with peas ; 
Chiccory salad with tarragon, 

Gelee of red currants. 

Frog; Soup ^ la Normande. — Thicken three quarts of light 
clear veal or chicken broth with three ounces of flour slightly cooked 
in butter ; add pepper, nutmeg, two leeks, and a little celery and pars- 
ley tied together ; boil half an hour, skim, and pass through a fine 
strainer ; take the legs of two dozen (or more, if small) of dressed and 
steeped frogs, pare, cut in pieces, and put in a saucepan with four ounces 
of melted butter ; toss and fry briskly until the moisture is evaporated 
and the frogs nearly done ; drain the butter off, add two glasses of 
white wine, boil three minutes, and turn into the strained soup ; boil a 
little longer until the meat parts easily from the bones, and finish with 
a liaison of four egg-yolks, diluted with a cup of raw cream and two 
ounces of fine butter ; mix carefully without boiling, pour into a soup- 
tureen over thin, round, dry crusts of french bread ; add a teaspoonful 
of finely cut chervil, and serve. 

Sheep's-Head, Parsley Sauce. — Procure a good-sized thick, 
fresh, and well-cleaned sheep's-head ; truss the head to the body and 
put on the sheet of a wide fish-boiler, with salted and acidulated water 
enough to cover ; put a sheet of paper over, cover, boil, and let simmer 
forty minutes ; drain and slide on a folded napkin ; surround with 
parsley, and serve with a parsley sauce [No. 156] in a sauce-bowl. 

Mutton Hash a la Portugaise (it is presumed that there is 
some meat left over from the roasted haunch of mutton served on the 
previous day). — Pare off the outside fat and sinews, and chop fine some 
cold roasted mutton ; put in a saucepan two ounces of butter with two 
tablespoonfuls of chopped shallots, fry slightly brown ; add two ladlefuls 
of espagnole sauce, the chopped mutton, salt and pepper; mix well, stir 
with a wooden spoon, and heat thoroughly without boiling ; take eight 
medium-sized artichokes, chip off the leaves, and pare the bottoms 
smoothly with a sharp knife ; rub with the half of a lemon, and boil until 
tender in slightly acidulated and salted water thickened with an ounce of 
flour ; cool, drain, and remove the choke, pare a little, and then stuff and 



COOKERY BOOK. 293 

bake as directed [No. 200] ; dish up the mutton in a heap, pour a little 
reduced brown sauce round it, surround with stuffed artichoke bottoms, 
sprinkle chopped parsley over, and serve. 

Eggs a r Avignonnaise. — Boil hard, twelve eggs ; cool, shell, 
cut up horizontally part of the white where it is thinnest ; take the 
yolks carefully out, pound them fine with an ounce of anchovy butter 
[No. 41], four raw egg-yolks, salt, pepper, nutmeg, two handfuls of fine 
crumbs and a ladleful of white sauce ; fill the egg-whites and put some 
of the stuffing on a round baking-dish ; range the eggs symmetrically 
over the stuffing in a dome form ; fill the spaces with the rest of the stuff- 
ing, besprinkle with fine crumbs and grated parmesan cheese, drop a 
little melted butter over, and bake slightly brown in a moderate oven ; 
pour a little demi-glaze sauce round the eggs, and serve in a baking- 
dish. 

Roast Squab with Peas. — Pick, draw, singe, truss, and roast 
four or more squab, having covered the breast with a slice of fat pork ; 
cook a quart of green peas as directed [No. 128] ; pour these into a 
dish, range the squabs over the peas, add a little rich gravy, and serve. 

Gelee of Red Currants. — Pick and bruise a pound of red 
currants with four ounces of raspberries in an earthen vessel ; pour a 
pint and a half of boiling syrup over, cover, and let steep an hour ; 
strain through a jelly-bag, mix with an ounce and a half of gelatine 
clarified with a pint and a half of water and lemon-juice ; fill a jelly- 
mould, imbed in ice, cool thoroughly, and serve in the ordinary way on 
a folded napkin. As this jelly is to be served alone, it differs entirely 
from currant jelly used for meats, etc. 



174. 

Saturday, June 23. — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup : Cream of cauliflowers. 

Mackerel pie, English style; 
Potato croquettes. 

Veal kidneys a la Demidoff ; 
Carrots sautes in butter. 



Tenderloin steaks a 1' hoteliere ; 
Beet and romaine salad. 

Omelet, with raspberries. 

Cream of Cauliflowers. — Take some white cauliflowers, pick off 
the green leaves, divide in flowerets, wash, and parboil in salted water 
for ten minutes ; drain, and put into a saucepan with four ounces 

of butter, salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; cover, and let simmer slowly until 



294 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

thoroughly done, then rub through a colander, and mix with two quarts 
of veal-broth thickened with four ounces of flour cooked in butter ; stir 
and boil ten minutes, skim, and press through a very fine sieve ; return to 
the stewpan, stir steadily until boiling hot ; add a pint or more of boil- 
ing cream, two ounces of fine butter, and a tablespoonful of sugar ; mix 
well without boiling, and pour into a soup-tureen over small round 
crusts of bread slightly fried in butter, and small flowerets of cauli- 
flowers kept for the purpose. 

Fresh Mackerel Pie, English Style.— Make a pound of fish 
force-meat [No, 12], and mix in it chopped mushrooms, parsley, and 
chives ; take up the fillets of two large fresh mackerel, pare off the skin 
and bones ; season with salt, pepper, and lemon-juice, and cut each 
fillet in four pieces ; butter, and place an oval or round channelled pie- 
mould on a baking-sheet, line the bottom and sides with short paste 
[No. 22], spread a layer of force-meat on the bottom, then the half of 
the fish and chopped mushrooms and parsley, another layer of force- 
meat, etc., finishing with force-meat ; wet the edge and cover the whole 
with a flat of the same paste ; make the edges adhere, trim evenly, and 
pinch with a pastry-pinch ; egg the surface, put a smaller flat of feuil- 
letage paste on top, wet and form a chimney by adding yet a smaller 
fiat, and making a hole in the centre ; egg again, trace a few slight in- 
cisions on the paste, and bake of a nice color in a moderately heated 
oven for an hour and a half ; after a while fill through the chimney 
with an essence of fish, made with the fish-bones and parings, two gills 
of broth and white wine ; take off the mould, put on a folded napkin, 
and serve hot, A white-fish sauce or any other may advantageously be 
served in a sauce-bowl at the same time. 

Veal Kidneys a la Demidoff. — Select four veal kidneys of a 
pinkish color ; cut in slices, season with salt and pepper, put in a sautoir 
with four ounces of hot butter ; fry briskly and weU, drain the butter 
off, and put the kidneys on a plate ; put two glasses of sherry wine, 
half a pint of espagnole sauce, and sliced mushrooms in the sautoir ; 
reduce to the desired consistency ; add the kidneys, chopped parsley, 
two ounces of butter, and lemon-juice, then mix well without boiling ; 
meanwhile wash and cook a pint and a half of rice, and put in a border- 
mould as directed [No, 12] ; turn this upon a dish, pour the stewed 
kidneys into the centre, and serve. 

Tenderloin Steaks cL 1' Hoteli^re. — Pare off the fat and sinews, 
flatten and season four tenderloin steaks with salt and pepper ; put in 
a sautoir with four ounces of melted butter, and fry slightly brown on 
both sides, and rather rare ; drain the fat off, and dish up the fillets ; 



COOKERY BOOK. 295 

put a pint of bechamel sauce with two ladlefuls of beef-extract in the 
sautoir, stir and boil three minutes, add two ounces of butter, mix well, 
pour this over the steaks, and serve. 

Omelet, with Raspberries. — Put a pint of raspberries in a bowl 
with powdered sugar and a liqueur glass of cognac brandy to steep for 
fifteen minutes ; mingle another pint of berries with four ounces of 
powdered sugar, and rub through a sieve to make a puree ; break and 
beat ten eggs in a kitchen vessel with a pinch of salt and two ounces of 
sugar ; melt four ounces of butter in an omelet-pan, add the eggs, and 
cook the omelet ; spread this in the pan, pour the steeped whole berries 
on the centre, fold and roll nicely over, and turn into a dish ; besprinkle 
with powdered sugar, glaze with a red-hot iron, pour the puree round 
the omelet, and serve. 

No. 175. 

Sunday, June 24. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Chicken-broth i la Viennoise. 

Salmon steaks, claret sauce ; 
Boiled and browned potatoes. 

Chicken croquettes a 1' Italienne ; 
Artichokes a la Lyonnaise. 

Roast fillet of beef, sauce Robert ; 
Lettuce and chives salad. 



Mousse au cafe noir. 

Chicken-Broth ^ la Viennoise.— Prepare three quarts of con- 
somme [No. 133], in which a slightly roasted tender fowl has been 
cooked ; skim off all the fat, strain, and keep warm ; pick the meat 
from the fowl, pare, and slice in small thin pieces ; wash thoroughly, 
parboil, cool, drain, and then cook four ounces of pearl barley in broth 
for three hours ; drain again, add to the prepared broth with the sliced 
chicken, boil a minute, skim, put a tablespoonful of finely cut chervil 
in, and serve. 

Salmon Steaks, Claret Sauce.— Place four good-sized middle- 
cut salmon steaks in a sautoir with two ounces of butter, salt, pepper, 
nutmeg, chopped onion, and a bunch of parsley with aromatics ; moisten 
with a pint of claret, cover with a buttered paper, boil, and let simmer 
twenty minutes ; drain the steaks, and thicken the liquid with an ounce 
of flour browned in butter ; boil a little, skim, add lemon-juice and four 
ounces of butter in small bits ; mix well, and press through a napkin ; 
dish up the fish, one cut slightly overlapping the other, pour the sauce 
over, and serve. 



296 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Chicken Croquettes ^ 1' Italienne. — Pick and cut the meat of 
a large and tender chicken in very small squares ; cut half the quantity 
of mushrooms in the same way ; put a tablespoonful of chopped shallot 
in a saucepan with three ounces of butter, fry a little ; add an ounce 
and a half of flour, fry a little longer without browning ; dilute with a 
pint of white broth ; add salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; stir, and boil a few 
minutes (this sauce should be pretty stiff); put a liaison of four egg- 
yolks, mix well, then add the chicken and mushrooms ; mix again, stir, 
and boil a minute, finish with lemon- juice and chopped parsley, and 
turn into a dish to cool ; strew pulverized crackers on the table, divide 
and shape the preparation in eight or more oblongs, dip in beaten eggs, 
roll in fresh crumbs, and smooth gently with the blade of a knife ; fry 
of a nice color in plenty of hot fat ; drain on a cloth, range in a circle 
on a folded napkin, put fried parsley in the centre, and serve with a 
white italian sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Artichokes a la Lyonnaise. — Pare off the lower leaves and trim 
the bottom of six or more large artichokes ; cut in quarters, remove 
the choke and small inner leaves, and pare the tips of the others ; rub 
with the half of a lemon, and parboil in slightly salted water for ten min- 
utes ; cool, and drain on a cloth ; then put in a sautoir with four ounces 
of butter, salt, pepper, two glasses of white wine, and a little broth ; 
cover, and let simmer until tender and the liquid is reduced to a glaze ; 
drain, and dish up in dome form, the bottom upward ; drain off most 
of the butter from the sautoir, add some chopped and slightly browned 
onions and a pint of espagnole sauce ; stir and boil a minute, finish 
with two ounces of butter and lemon-juice, mix well, pour over the 
artichokes, and serve. 

Roast Fillet of Beef, Robert Sauce.— Pare off the fat and 
sinews and lard a fillet of beef ; roast rather rare, and dish up ; add a 
ladleful of rich broth to the drippings, boil a minute, skim the fat, strain 
over the fillet, and serve with a robert sauce [No. 355] in a sauce-bowl. 

Mousse au Cafe Noir. — Line an ice-cream mould of adequate 
size with thin white paper, plunge to the top in a pail of salted ice ; put 
in a saucepan eight egg-yolks, stir, and dilute carefully with a gill of 
very strong, clear, black coffee and a pint of boiling-hot, thick syrup ; 
press through a napkin, return to the saucepan on the fire, and whip 
briskly for two minutes, without cooking the eggs ; put on ice, whip 
again while cooling ; mix with the same quantity of well-whipt cream 
[No. 77], fill the prepared mould, close hermetically, and cover with 
more salted ice ; at least two hours after immerse in cold water, turn on 
a folded napkin, remove the paper, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 297 



No. 176. 

Monday, June 25. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : R090I a la Varsovienne. 

Fricandeau of sturgeon with sorrel ; 
Potato cakes. 

Stewed lamb with peas ; 
Green corn. 

Fillets of beef a la Sicilienne j 
Tomato salad. 



Nougat cake. 

R050I ^ la Varsovienne. — Put in a soup-pot four ounces of ham, 
four ounces of bacon, a fowl, a knuckle of veal, two pounds of soup- 
beef, a tablespoonful of salt, and about three gallons of cold water ; set 
on the fire, boil, and scum well ; add two carrots, a turnip, a bunch of 
leeks, celery, parsley, and three cloves stuck in an onion ; cover 
partially and let simmer until cooked, carefully taking out all the differ- 
ent meats as soon as they are done ; free the broth of its fat, and strain 
three quarts of it through a wet napkin into a saucepan ; boil, then 
with the left hand drop in six ounces of semoule while stirring wilh a 
wooden spoon in the right hand ; boil half an hour, skim, pour into a 
soup-tureen ; add a little chopped fennel and parsley, the breast of the 
fowl, and part of the bacon, both cut in small pieces ; cover, and serve. 

Fricandeau of Sturgeon with Sor.rel. — Procure a side-cut of 
sturgeon weighing about four pounds ; skin, and pare off the bony scales ; 
flatten, and trim nicely ; fasten some strips of fat pork on one 
side ; put the fish in a sautoir with sliced vegetables, white broth, and 
half a pint of white wine, and cook in the oven for an hour, sprinkling 
frequently with the liquid to glaze of a nice color ; drain, and dish upon 
a thick puree of sorrel ; strain, take off the fat, and reduce the liquid to 
a demi-glaze ; pour this over the fish, and serve. 

Stewed Lamb with Peas. — Cut in pieces and put two breasts 
of lamb in a saucepan with two ounces of butter ; fry light brown and 
add two ounces of flour ; mix well, fry a little longer, dilute with light 
broth, season with salt and pepper, stir to boiling, put in a bunch of 
parsley, cover, and boil fifteen minutes ; add a quart of fresh-shelled 
peas and some small, slightly browned onions, and boil half an hour 
longer ; skim off the fat, remove the parsley, dish up, and serve. 

If the sauce is too thin, it must be drained into another saucepan 
and reduced briskly. 

Fillets of Beef §, la Sicilienne. — Pare, flatten, remove most of 
the fat, and broil rather rare, four large tenderloin steaks ; range on a 
dish, pour a Sicilian sauce over, and serve. 



298 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Sicilian Sauce. — Pare off and slice four onions in rings ; loose 
them, put in a wire basket, and fry light ^rown in plenty of clear hot 
fat ; drain on a cloth, put in a saucepan with a pint of espagnole 
sauce, a glass of marsala wine, and a pinch of red pepper ; boil a min- 
ute, and use. 

Nougat Cake. — Put two pounds of shelled almonds in a sauce- 
pan with plenty of boiling water ; put this on the fire and stir with a 
skimmer ; try the almonds by pressing with the fingers, and when the 
pellicle comes off easily, drain and cool them in water ; drain again and 
remove the pellicle by gentle pressure with the fingers ; wrap them in a 
large dry cloth for about three hours to remove the moisture, then cut 
in fine shreds and spread on a sheet of paper placed on a large baking- 
sheet ; put them in an oven to dry without browning ; prepare a large 
nougat-mould, slightly oiled with almond or olive oil ; put on a slow 
fire in an untinned copper basin a pound of powdered sugar with a 
tablespoonful of vinegar ; stir with a flat wooden spoon (spatula) until 
melted ; add the almonds, mix carefully by lifting with the spoon, and 
keep on warm embers without browning ; put part of the nougat on a 
slab (marble table), flatten by pressing down with a lemon to a sixth of 
an inch thick, and put by pressure in the centre of the mould ; take 
another piece and repeat the same operation until the mould is lined all 
round to the edge, carefully placing each layer against the preceding 
one, and closing all the cavities ; trim the edge evenly, let cool, and 
turn on a folded napkin. 

The filling ought to be done quickly, for the sugar, having a ten- 
dency to take color, the cake would be darker at the end. 



No. 177. 

Tuesday, June 26. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Macaroni, i la Toscane. 

Fried sea-bass, tartar sauce ; 
French fried potatoes. 

Veal cutlets with ham ; 
Kolil-rabis a 1' Espagnole. 

Spring ducks au verjus ; 

Tourte of pineapple marmalade. 

Macaroni, a la Toscane. — Peel and cut two small egg-plants in 
thin slices ; sprinkle with salt, put them one upon another, and let rest 
an hour ; press the water out, besprinkle with flour, and fry light 
brown ; drain on a cloth and cut in two-inch-long shreds ; slice a few 



COOKERY BOOK. 



299 



large fresh mushrooms, cook them in butter ; peel and remove the 
seeds of six large tomatoes, cut in pieces, and cook them also in a little 
butter ; have a pint of demi-glaze sauce [No, 361], put the above 
ingredients into it, and keep warm ; boil a pound of macaroni in plenty 
of slightly salted water for about twenty minutes, and drain in a colan- 
der without cooling ; have a deep dish, butter it, and strew some grated 
parmesan cheese ; spread over the cheese z. layer of macaroni, then 
some of the prepared ingredients and sauce and more grated cheese, 
another layer of macaroni, and so on until the whole is used, finishing 
with cheese ; pour about four ounces of hardly melted butter over all, 
cover, and serve very hot, along with a tureen of rich consomme [No. 
133]- 

Fried Sea-Bass, Tartar Sauce. — Procure about three pounds 
of small sea-bass ; cleanse well, wipe dry, and cut small incisions on 
both sides ; dip in cold milk, roll in flour, shake the superfluous flour 
off, and fry crisp and light brown in plenty of clear hot fat ; drain, 
sprinkle with fine salt, range on a folded napkin with a handful of fried 
parsley on top, surround with two quartered lemons, and serve with a 
tartar sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Veal Cutlets with Ham. — Take four or more veal cutlets off 
the loin, flatten, and pare nicely ; season with salt and pepper, range 
in a sautoir with melted butter, and fry them till done and light brown 
on both sides ; drain off the fat ; moisten with a gill of sherry wine, a 
ladleful of broth, and a pint of espagnole sauce ; let simmer ten min- 
utes, then dish up, alternating each cutlet with slices of boiled ham 
kept warm for the purpose in a little sherry wine ; pour the sauce over 
all, and serve. 

Kohl-Rabis (Turnip-Rooted Cabbage) ^ 1' Espagnole. — 
Pare eight or more small kohl-rabis, cut in quarters ; trim a little, cook 
in slightly salted water, with a little butter ; drain, put in a saucepan 
with two ounces of melted butter, stir a few moments on the fire ; add 
a ladleful of espagnole sauce, salt, pepper, and two ounces of butter in 
small bits ; mix well, and serve in a deep dish. 

Spring Ducks au Verjus. — Prepare and cook two large spring 
ducks as directed [No. 126], and serve with verjuice sauce in a sauce- 
bowl. 

Verjuice Sauce. — Pick and parboil until soft about a pint of 
full-sized, unripe green grapes ; drain, put in a saucepan with two 
ladlefuls of espagnole sauce, reduce to the desired consistency, and 
finish with an ounce of butter to smooth the sauce. 

Tourte of Pineapple Marmalade, — Put a ten-inch round, thin 



300 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

flat of feuilletage paste on a baking-sheet ; pinch up a little ledge about 
an inch from the edge, spread about a third of an inch thick of peach 
marmalade all over the centre, wet the edge, put a similar flat of paste 
over all, press gently all around with the thumb, and wet again ; then 
lay an inch-wide rim of the same paste on the edge and make both 
ends adhere as neatly as possible ; trim round, egg the surface, trace 
slight incisions on the centre, bake in a moderate oven for about half 
an hour, then glaze of a nice color with powdered sugar, and serve cold. 



No. 178. 

Wednesday, June 27. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Lettuce, a 1' Amphitryon. 

Fillets of bass in paper ; 
Potato croquettes. 

Mutton cutlets a la Bardoux ; 
Artichokes a 1' Italienne. 



Roast ducks a la Valen9oise ; 
Sweet-pepper salad. 

Raspberry and currant pudding. 

Lettuce, a 1* Amphitryon. — Take four small french rolls cut in 
two ; remove the crumb, butter, and dry slightly brown in the oven ; 
take off the outside leaves, parboil, drain, and cook six lettuce-stalks in 
broth as directed [No, i66] ; drain again, remove the cores, cut in 
pieces, add a little pepper and cheese, fill the eight pieces of bread, 
range in a buttered baking-dish, the lettuce uppermost ; besprinkle 
with very little grated cheese and bread-crumbs, drop small bits of 
butter on top, moisten with half a pint of broth, bake in a moderate 
oven for twenty minutes, and serve in the baking-dish with two quarts 
of rich consomme in a soup-tureen, and grated cheese on a plate. 

Fillets of Bass in Paper. — Take the fillets of a four-pound 
striped bass ; pare off all the bones and skin, cut in eight pieces, flatten 
and trim nicely ; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and put in a 
sautoir with four ounces of butter and the juice of a lemon ; set on a 
brisk fire, turn over, cover, and let simmer until firm ; this done, drain 
on a dish ; put in the sautoir two tablespoonfuls of slightly fried chop- 
ped shallots, a pint of chopped mushrooms, and two glasses of white 
wine ; stir and reduce until consistent ; add a pint of thick veloute 
sauce, four egg-yolks, and chopped parsley ; stir steadily till nearly 
boiling, pour over the fish, then turn it in the sauce and let cool ; cut 
in heart-shape and oil eight sheets of large note-paper, spread on the 
table, place a piece of fish with its sauce on the right side, fold over, 



COOKERY BOOK. 301 

and twist the edges close ; repeat the same for every piece, turn them 
on a baking-sheet, drop a little oil over, and bake to a light-brown color 
in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes ; range on a dish, and serve 
with fine-herb sauce [No, 307] in a sauce-bowl. 

Mutton Cutlets ^ la Bardoux. — Cut eight mutton cutlets off 
the saddle ; chop out the spine, pare nicely, season with salt and pep- 
per, immerse in melted butter, roll in fresh crumbs, and broil rather 
rare ; dish up in a circle, fill the centre with green peas a la Parisienne 
[No. 128], and serve. 

Artichokes a 1' Italienne. — Prepare, cook, and serve as directed 
for artichokes a la Lyonnaise [No. 175], but finish with an italian sauce 
instead of onion and espagnole sauce. 

Roast Ducks ^ la Valen90ise. — Singe, draw, truss nicely two 
tender and not fishy large spring ducks ; dish them up, add a ladleful 
of gravy to the drippings, skim off the fat, and strain the gravy over 
the ducks ; range slices of orange freed from seeds on the edge of the 
dish, and serve with an orange sauce [No. 75] in a sauce-boAvl. 

Sweet-Pepper Salad. — Take enough sweet green Spanish pep- 
pers ; boil a minute so as to wipe off the skin ; slice fine, put in a bowl • 
season with salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar, and serve as cold as possible. 

Raspberry and Currant Pudding. — Prepare some english pud- 
ding-paste [No. 171] ; butter an earthen pudding-bowl, line with paste, 
fill with picked currants and raspberries mingled with powdered 
sugar ; wet round the top and cover with a flat of the same paste ; 
cut a little and twist the edge with the thumb and forefinger to make 
the paste adhere ; wrap in a buttered napkin dusted with flour, tie 
firmly underneath with a strong cord, plunge into a large stewpan of 
boiling water, and boil steadily for an hour and a half ; drain, remove 
the napkin, invert on a dish, take off the bowl, and serve. 



No. 179. 

Thursday, June 28. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Puree a la Galli9ienne. 

Grenadins of salmon a la Venitienne ; 
Baked potatoes a la Vaudoise. 

Beef palates, ravigote sauce ; 
Broad beans with savory. 

Chicken saute a la St. Florentin ; 
Chiccory salad. 

Cherry tart with rice, ; 

Pur6e ^ la Galligienne. — Pick, wash, and parboil separately 



302 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

spinach, sorrel, and nettle (if any), in equal parts, using enough to 
make a pint and a half of consistent puree ; rub through a colander ; 
put two ounces of butter and a chopped onion in a saucepan, fry a 
little, add the puree, and stir a little longer ; sprinkle four ounces of 
flour over, mix well, and dilute with three quarts of veal-broth, boil, add 
pepper, salt, nutmeg, and twelve ounces of small pork sausages ; cook 
half an hour, drain the sausages, skim the fat, and rub through a fine 
sieve ; heat again, finish with two gills of cream and two ounces of 
butter ; pour in a soup-tureen, add the sausages, cut in thin rounds, 
and serve. 

Grenadins of Salmon ^ la V^nitienne. — Take the fillets of a 
four-pound tail-piece of salmon ; skin and cut each fillet in four 
elongated pieces ; flatten and pare a little, and fasten fine strips of 
fat pork on one side ; season with salt, pepper, and lemon-juice ; 
range in a buttered sautoir, the larded side uppermost ; moisten with 
half a pint of white wine, cover with a round sheet of buttered 
paper, with a small hole in the centre, so as to let off the steam, 
which otherwise would prevent the surface from glazing ; cook in 
the oven for about forty minutes, taking care to sprinkle frequently 
with the liquid in order to glaze of a nice color ; drain and dish 
up the fillets in a circle, alternately with heart-shaped slices of bread 
fried in butter ; put two ladlefuls of broth in the sautoir, thicken 
with an ounce of flour kneaded in butter ; stir and boil a few 
minutes, finishing with two ounces of butter, lemon-juice, and chopped 
parsley ; mix well, pour in the centre of the dish, and serve. 

Beef Palates, Ravigote Sauce. — Steep in cold water and 
cook six beef palates as directed [No. 62] ; drain on a cloth, cut each 
palate in two or three pieces, pare nicely, and put in a saucepan 
with some ravigote sauce [No. 256] ; mingle well, and dish up in 
pyramid form in the centre of a bread border [No. 155]. 

Broad Beans with Savory. — Take three pints of small, fresh- 
shelled, broad, english dwarf beans ; boil till tender in salted water 
with a bunch of savory ; drain on a cloth ; put in a saucepan with 
four ounces of butter in small bits, pepper, nutmeg, a little sugar, a 
tablespoonful of savory chopped fine, and a ladleful of white sauce ; 
mix well, and serve. 

Chicken Saute ^ la St. Florentin. — Singe, draw, and divide 
two large chickens as for fricassee ; put in a sautoir with two ounces 
of butter, a gill of oil, salt, and pepper ; cover and fry light brown 
on both sides ; drain off most of the fat ; add half a green pepper, 
and two shallots chopped fine ; fry a little longer ; moisten with two 



COOKERY BOOK. 303 

glasses of white wine, white broth, and a pint of tomato sauce ; cover, 
let simmer half an hour, dish up, pour the sauce over, and serve. 

Cherry Tart with Rice. — Wash well, boil two minutes, and drain 
a pound of rice ; put in a saucepan with a quart of milk, an ounce 
of butter, an ounce of sugar, and a pinch of salt ; boil, cover, and 
let simmer half an hour ; pick and remove the pits from a quart of 
cherries, cook with a pint of syrup, and drain on a plate ; butter and line 
a ten-inch-wide pastry-ring with tart-paste, put on a baking-sheet, 
spread half of the rice on the bottom, add the cherries, cover over with 
the rest of the rice, smooth evenly, and cook thoroughly in a moder- 
ately heated oven ; slide on a dish, remove the ring, besprinkle with 
powdered sugar, and serve. 



No. 180. 

Friday June 29. — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup : Clam chowder. 

Broiled king-fish ; 
Potatoes a la Lyonnaise. 

Breast of lamb a la Very ; 
Baked egg a 1' aurore. 

Fried chicken k la duchesse ; 
Tomato and cucumber salad. 



Raspberry jelly i la Victoria. 

Clam Chowder. — Take a quart of opened, hard clams ; drain, 
save the liquor, and chop fine ; take also two dozen of soft clams, 
remove the hard part, and chop them in the same way ; cut a quart of 
peeled potatoes in small squares ; bruise and steep half a pound of 
hard crackers in cold water ; chop fine two large white onions, also two 
ounces of salt pork ; put the pork and onion in a stewpan with an 
ounce of butter ; fry these light brown, add the potatoes, six peeled and 
sliced tomatoes, a quart of water, three pints of veal or chicken broth, 
ground thyme, mace, sage, and pepper ; boil fifteen minutes, then put 
in the clams, with their liquor, and the crackers ; boil thirty minutes 
longer, skim the fat, add four ounces of butter and chopped parsley ; 
boil no longer, mix carefully, and serve. 

Broiled King-Fish. — Take four medium-sized king-fish ; cleanse 
well, wipe dry, slit down the back from head to tail ; add salt and 
pepper, baste with oil, and broil well ; slide on a dish, put a little butter, 
chopped parsley, and lemon-juice over, and serve. 

Breast of Lamb i. la Very. — Choose two fat and fleshy breasts 
of lamb ; remove the rib and red breast-bones, make a deep incision 



304 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

in the large end, and fill with german stuffing as directed [No. 344] ; 
sew the aperture, and put the breasts in a sautoir with sliced carrot and 
onion, a bunch of parsley, and white broth to nearly cover ; put a but- 
tered paper over and cook in a moderate oven for an hour and a half, 
basting frequently with the liquid ; strain, free the liquid from its fat 
and reduce to a demi-glaze ; pare and dish up the lamb ; garnish with 
string-beans a la Very [No. 169] ; pour the demi-glaze over, and serve. 

Baked Eggs a 1' Aurora. — Boil hard ten or more eggs ; shell, 
slice the whites and half of the yolks ; prepare a pint of very consistent 
bechamel sauce ; add the sliced eggs, salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; mix 
carefully, turn in dome form in a deep dish, then rub the rest of the 
yolks through a sieve over the dish ; drop a little melted butter over, 
and heat in the oven without browning. 

Fried Chicken ^ la Duchesse. — Draw and cut two chickens, 
each in about eight pieces ; pare nicely ; season with salt, pepper, and 
nutmeg ; put them in a dish and steep for two hours with lemon-juice, 
thyme, parsley, two bay-leaves, and a sliced onion ; drain, roll in flour, 
dip in beaten eggs, roll in fresh bread-crumbs, and fry slowly and well 
in a sautoir with clarified butter ; drain, dish up on a folded napkin 
with fried parsley, and serve with the following sauce : 

Sauce cL la Duchesse. — Put a pint of veloute sauce in a saucepan 
with a gill of cream ; stir and reduce ten minutes ; add four ounces of 
fine butter and four tablespoonfuls of cooked lean ham cut in small 
squares ; serve in a sauce-bowl. 

Raspberry Jelly a la Victoria. — Put a pound of red raspberries 
in an earthen vessel with a pint and a half of hot syrup at thirty degrees; 
cover, and let steep an hour ; strain the syrup through a jelly-bag, and 
mix with an ounce and a half of gelatine clarified with a pint and a 
half of water ; imbed a jelly-mould in ice, and pour a little of nearly cold 
jelly into it ; let this congeal, range a layer of raw raspberries on top, 
cover over with jelly, and let congeal again ; then add another layer of 
berries and jelly, and so on until the mould is filled ; cool thoroughly, 
and serve in the ordinary way. If white raspberries can be had, it is 
well to alternate the white and red in the mould, commencing with the 
white. 



COOKERY BOOK. 305 

No. 181. 

Saturday, June 30. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Sheep's-tail, a I'Armenienne. 

Fried weak-fish, sauce Nifoise ; 
Saratoga potatoes. 

Veal cutlets a la Castillane ; 
Carrots sautees. 

Rissoles of beef, sauce Colbert ; 
Artichoke salad. 

Blackberry tart. 

Sheep's-Tail, a 1' Armenienne. — Take about eight sheep's- 
tails ; pare off the superfluous fat and small ends, cut in short pieces, 
steep in cold water for an hour, put in a saucepan with fresh water, 
boil two minutes, cool, wash, and drain well ; return to the stewpan 
with two ounces of butter, stir, and fry five minutes without browning ; 
drain the fat off, moisten with broth to cover, add a bunch of parsley, 
leeks, celery, and an onion with two cloves stuck in it ; cover, and 
boil slowly until tender ; mix in a saucepan three ounces of flour and 
two tablespoonfuls of curry powder or paste with three ounces of 
melted butter ; dilute with three quarts of the mutton-broth strained 
and free from fat, and boil half an hour ; remove the parsley and 
onion, and put the tails in a soup-tureen ; skim the soup, add a liaison 
of four egg-yolks diluted with a cup of raw cream ; mix well without 
boiling, pass through a fine strainer over the meat ; cover, and serve 
with plain boiled rice separately on a dish. 

Fried Weak-Fish, Nigoise Sauce. — Cleanse four medium-sized 
weak-fish ; wash, and wipe dry ; make slight incisions on both sides, 
dip in cold milk, roll in flour, and fry pretty crisp and well in plenty 
of clear hot fat ; drain on a cloth, salt a little, range on a folded nap- 
kin with fried parsley and quartered lemons, and serve with a nigoise 
sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Veal Cutlets a la Castillane. — Take eight medium-sized veal 
cutlets off the loin ; flatten, pare nicely ; put in a sautoir with two 
ounces of butter, a gill of oil, salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; put on a brisk 
fire, and fry of a nice color on both sides ; drain off the fat, moisten 
with a pint of espagnole and half a pint of tomato sauce, add a little 
powdered sweet-chilli pepper, and boil fifteen minutes longer ; dish 
up in a circle, finish the sauce with six ounces of lean ham cut in small 
squares and lemon-juice, pour it over the meat, and serve. 

Carrots Sautees. — Pare some small carrots, slit them in four 
pieces, or slice transversely if too large ; parboil, drain, and cook in a 



3o6 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

saucepan with water, a little salt, and an ounce of butter until they are 
tender and reduced to a glaze ; turn into a sautoir with four ounces of 
butter, pepper, and a teaspoonful of sugar ; toss on a brisk fire, add 
chopped parsley, and serve. 

Rissoles of Beef, Sauce Colbert.— Cut some cold roast fillet 
of beef in very small squares, and chop fine some mushrooms ; put an 
ounce of butter in a saucepan with a tablespoonful of chopped shallots ; 
fry a little ; add about half a pint of veloute sauce, two tablespoonfuls 
of beef-extract, salt, white and a pinch of red pepper ; stir, and boil 
two minutes ; add the beef, the mushrooms, a liaison of four egg-yolks, 
chopped parsley, and lemon-juice ; stir vigorously, boil a moment, and 
turn on a plate to cool ; then proceed as directed [No. 172] for rissoles 
of chicken, and serve with a colbert sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Artichoke Salad. — Pare, and boil some artichokes ; remove the 
chokes and inner leaves, cool thoroughly, and serve with chopped pars- 
ley and a caster of salad ingredients. 

Blackberry Tart. — Prepare, and bake a tart-crust as directed 
for strawberries [No. 156] ; fill with blackberries ; then steep some 
more very ripe blackberries in a thick syrup ; press the syrup through 
a coarse napkin, pour this over the tart, and serve. 

Tart-Paste. — Sift a pound of flour on the table ; make a hole in 
the centre ; put in a teaspoonful of sugar, a little salt, two egg-yolks, 
and half a pound of butter ; knead the whole together while adding 
gradually sufficient cold water to make a smooth, pretty stiff dough ; 
roll in a moist cloth, and keep in a cool place till wanted. 



No. 182. 

Sunday, July i. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Consomme a 1' imperiale. 

Terrapin pie a 1' Americaine. 
Potato croquettes a la Bechamel ; 

Curry of lamb with rice ; 
Boiled artichoke, white sauce. 

Ribs of beef a la Hessoise ; 
Chiccory salad. 

Raspberry ice-cream. 

Consomme ^ 1' Imperiale. — Prepare three quarts of consomme 
[No. 133] ; butter a small tin pan, spread in it a third of an inch thick 
of cream force-meat [No. 326], and cook in the oven for three minutes ; 
turn on a sheet of paper, and divide in small rounds or lozenges ; put 



COOKERY BOOK. 307 

these in a soup-tureen with half a pint of asparagus-tops and carrots 
cut in very small rounds, pour the consomme over, and serve. 

Terrapin Pie a 1' Americaine. — Scald and cook rather firm 
three large and fat diamond-back terrapin as directed [No. 272] ; cut 
open, save the livers and eggs, remove the gall and intestines, and cut 
in medium-sized pieces (if any eggs in shell, remove the shell and milky 
substance, and save the yolks) ; put the whole except the eggs in a 
saucepan with four ounces of butter ; stir, fry briskly, besprinkle with 
about an ounce of flour ; dilute with a pint of beef-broth, two gills of 
pale sherry, and the same of boiled cream ; season with salt, white and 
red pepper, and nutmeg ; set on the fire, stir until the preparation boils, 
simmer five minutes ; add chopped parsley and two ounces of butter ; 
mix well, pour into a deep, flat-edged earthen baking-dish, then spread 
the eggs over, and let cool partially ; wet the edge and lay a rim of 
feuilletage paste on it ; wet again, and cover the whole with a thin 
layer of the same paste ; trim the edge, egg the surface, trace a few 
incisions over, make a hole in the centre, and bake in a moderately hot 
oven for about forty minutes ; serve very hot with slices of pared lemon 
separately on a plate. 

Curry of Lamb with Rice. — Take two breasts of lamb, cut them in 
pieces ; put in a saucepan with two ounces of butter and a chopped 
onion ; stir and fry briskly until the moisture is evaporated ; sprinkle a 
tablespoonful of sifted flour and two tablespoonfuls of curry powder 
over ; mix well, fry a little longer, dilute with white broth or water, stir 
and heat to a boil ; add salt and a bunch of parsley, tying with it aro- 
matics and the rind of a lemon ; cover and let simmer until done ; 
then remove the parsley and skim the fat ; fill and press gently some 
boiled nearly dry rice in a slightly buttered, plain border-mould ; invert 
on a dish, fill the centre with the lamb and sauce, and serve. 

Boiled Artichoke, White Sauce. — French artichokes are to be 
found in market for a reasonable price nearly the whole season ; break 
the stalks and trim the bottom of eight artichokes ; pare off the tips 
of the leaves and cook in slightly salted water for about forty minutes; 
immerse a few moments in cold water, drain, loosen, and remove the 
small inner leaves and choke ; warm again, drain thoroughly on a cloth, 
pour a little well-buttered white sauce into each one ; dish up on a 
napkin, and serve with more sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Roast Ribs of Beef, Hessoise Sauce. — Saw off the spine, .shorten 
the ribs, and truss nicely a,.set of two or three ribs of beef ; salt, and roast 
rather rare for about an hour and a half ; untruss and dish up the beef ; 
add a little broth to the drippings, skim the fat, strain over the beef, 
and serve with a hessoise sauce in a sauce-bowl. 



3o8 ' FRANCO-AMERICA^^ 

Hessoise Sauce. — Put in a kitchen vessel four tablespoonfuls of 
freshly grated horseradish, with a tablespoonful of sugar, a little salt, 
and four tablespoonfuls of fine fresh bread-crumbs ; mix well, and 
dilute with a gill of sour cream. 

Raspberry Ice-Cream. — Rub through a fine sieve enough rasp- 
berries to make a pint and a half of pulp ; mix with a pound of powdered 
sugar, slightly flavored with vanilla, dilute with a pint and a half of 
fresh cream, put this in a sorbetiere, and freeze in the ordinary way ; 
transfer to a pyramid form, cover, and imbed in salted ice for two hours 
or more ; immerse in cold water, wipe the mould, take off the cover, 
invert on a folded napkin, and serve immediately. 



No. 183. 

Monday, July 2, — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup : Tschi a la Russe. 

Matelote of sea-bass ; 
Potatoes a la Colbert. 



Mutton chops a la Soubise ; 
Corn cakes. 



Fried chicken a la Bearnaise ; 
Salad a la Dumas. 

Blackberry short-cake, English style. 

Tschi el la Russe. — Slice fine two large white onions ; put them 
in a saucepan with four ounces of butter and four ounces of bacon cut 
in squares ; fry light brown, add a small head of cabbage cut in fine 
shreds, stir, and fry a little longer until the moisture is mostly evapo- 
rated ; besprinkle with two ounces of flour, mix well, dilute with three 
quarts of slightly salted beef-broth, and boil half an hour ; then add 
twelve ounces of small smoked sausages, and cook slowly for half an 
hour longer ; skim the fat, take out the sausages, cut them in slices, 
return to the soup, and pour in a soup-tureen ; add chopped fennel and 
parsley, and serve. 

Matelote of Sea-Bass. — Take three pounds of medium-sized 
sea-bass ; pare off the fins and part of the head, cut in pieces; put 
in a saucepan with a bunch of parsley and aromatics, two sliced onions, 
two cloves of garlic, salt and pepper ; moisten with light broth and 
claret wine in equal parts till nearly covered ; cover the saucepan, and 
boil slowly for ten minutes ; strain, and thicken the liquid with two 
ounces of flour slightly browned in butter ; boil ten minutes, skim, add 
four ounces of butter, the juice of a lemon, and a tablespoonful of 



COOKERY BOOK. 309 

anchovy-essence ; transfer the fish to another saucepan, with some 
mushrooms and two dozen small onions slightly browned in butter ; 
press the sauce through a napkin over the dish, mingle carefully, dish 
up in pyramidal form, surround with heart-shaped slices of bread fried 
in butter, and serve. 

Mutton Chops, Braised a la Soubise. — Take eight thick fat- 
covered mutton chops ; chop off the spine, pare slightly, fasten short 
oblongs of fat pork across the lean part of the chops; put in a saucepan 
with mutton parings, sliced vegetables, and a bunch of parsley ; cover 
with broth, and boil slowly for about two hours ; strain, free the 
broth from its fat, and reduce to a demi-glaze ; drain, and gently press 
the chops between two tin sheets with a weight on top until cold ; then 
trim them neatly, range in a sautoir, turn the demi-glaze over, cover, 
and let simmer until warm ; prepare a soubise sauce [No. 337], pour 
some in a dish, dish up the chops alternately with a chop-shaped slice 
of bread fried in butter, and fill the centre with more sauce ; put small 
paper ruffles on the bones, pour the rest of the reduced gravy over the 
sauce, and serve. 

Corn Cakes. — Take enough ears of corn, slit the cobs through 
the middle, and scrape off the grains, pressing with the back of the 
knife to obtain all the milky substance ; add salt, two beaten eggs, and 
flour enough to blend the whole ; put two tablespoonfuls at a time on 
a hot, buttered iron griddle or frying-pan, and cook light brown on 
both sides. 

Fried Chicken a la Bearnaise. — Singe, draw, and divide two 
good-sized tender chickens; then season, and fry in sweet oil as directed 
[No. 147] ; dish up, surround with fried parsley and quartered lemons, 
and serve with a bearnaise sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Salad a la Dumas. — Cut in small squares some cooked red beets 
and potatoes, pickled cucumbers, and raw tomatoes ; rub four egg- 
yolks through a sieve into a bowl ; mix gradually and carefully with 
oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, and a tablespoonful of essence of anchovies ; 
add the prepared vegetables, mix well, put into a salad-bowl, ornament 
with chopped eggs, chervil, beets, chives, and tarragon ; put the heart 
of a lettuce on the centre, and serve. 

Blackberry Short-Cake, English Style.— Make an empty pie- 
crust for raw fruits as directed [No. 156], fill with blackberries min- 
gled with powdered sugar ; cover to an inch thick with sweetened well- 
whipt cream [No. 77], and serve. 

Strawberries are prepared the same way. 



3IO FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 184. 

Tuesday, July 3 . — Bill of fare for eignt persons : 

Soup : Puree of onions a la Nantaise. 

Stewed black-fish a la Newport ; 
Boiled potatoes. 

Broiled gristles of veal, sauce piquante ; 
Fried ariichokes. 

Chickens a la St. Cloud ; 
Bean and bacon salad. 



Blackberry pudding. 

Pur6e of Onions ^ la Nantaise. — Slice a dozen large onions ; 
put them in a stewpan with four ounces of melted butter and a 
teaspoonful of sugar ; set on the fire, and stir steadily until soft and 
slightly brown ; besprinkle with four ounces of sifted flour, mix well 
and stir a little longer ; dilute carefully with three quarts of slightly 
browned veal or chicken broth, boil ten minutes ; skim, rub through a 
fine sieve, return to a stewpan, stir to a boil, skim again, finish with 
four ounces of table butter in small bits, salt and pepper ; mix well, 
pour into a soup-tureen, and serve with small squares of bread fried in 
butter. 

Stewed Black-Fish ^ la Newport. — Procure about four pounds 
of medium-sized black-fish (called tautog at Newport) ; immerse a few 
moments in boiling water to remove the scales and cleanse easily ; cut 
off the fins, draw, wash well, cut in pieces, and put in a saucepan with 
a bunch of parsley, an onion with three cloves stuck in it, salt, and 
pepper-corns ; moisten with a pint of catawba wine and water to nearly 
cover ; cover the saucepan, and boil slowly for half an hour, transfer the 
fish to another saucepan ; strain, and thicken the liquid with two ounces 
of flour browned in butter, boil fifteen minutes, skim, finish with two 
ounces of butter and some lemon-juice, and press through a napkin over 
the fish; dish in pyramidal form, garnish with eight glazed onions [No. 
338], eight large peeled and baked tomatoes, and heart-shaped slices of 
bread fried in butter ; sprinkle chopped parsley over all, and serve. 

Broiled Gristles of Veal, Sauce Piquante. — Procure a breast 
of white and fat veal ; cut crosswise in eight or more pieces, and steep 
in cold water for an hour ; drain, put in a stewpan with salt, sliced 
carrots and onions, a bunch of parsley with aromatics, and water 
enough to cover ; cover the saucepan, and boil an hour, drain the veal, 
remove the bones, and press between two tin sheets with a weight on 
top until cold ; pare in an oblong shape, season with salt and pepper, 
baste with melted butter, roll in fresh bread-crumbs, and broil light 



COOKERY BOOK. 311 

brown until thoroughly hot ; dish up in a circle, pour a piquante sauce 
in the centre, make a border of pickled gherkins on the edge of the 
dish, and serve. 

Fried Artichokes. — Take four tender artichokes, pare and trim 
as directed [No. 175] ; cut chips out of the bottom, with a few leaves 
adhering to each, until you reach the inner leaves and choke ; drop, 
and wash them in acidulated water ; drain, put in a deep dish with 
salt, pepper, a little vinegar, two tablespoonfuls of oil, three beaten 
eggs, and a handful of flour ; knead all together, drop the chips one 
by one in plenty of very hot fat, stir, and fry until slightly crisp, of a nice 
color, and all come to the surface ; drain on a cloth, pile them up on 
a folded napkin, surround with fried parsley, and serve. 

Chickens a la St. Cloud. — Singe, draw, and truss nicely two 
large tender chickens ; with a pointed stick make small holes in the 
breast, and insert rows of truffles and red beef-tongue cut in small long 
squares ; tie a barde of fat pork over, then cook and serve as directed 
for chickens a 1' ivoire [No. 128], with the addition of the truffle-par- 
ings chopped fine and put in the sauce. 

Bean and Bacon Salad. — String, slit, cook, and cool some 
string-beans in the usual way ; drain well in a cloth, put in a salad- 
bowl, season with salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar, and chopped chives 
and parsley ; mix carefully, range small and thin slices of well-fried 
bacon on top, and serve. 

Blackberry Pudding. — Proceed as directed [No. 17S], but use 
blackberries instead of raspberries and currants. 



No. 185. 



Wednesday, July 4. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Puree of chicken a la St. Mande, 

Boiled salmon, nonpareil sauce ; 
Potatoes a la duchesse. 

Fillets of mutton with peas ; 
Artichokes a la barigoule. 

Roast woodcock a la Grimod ; 
Lettuce salad a la Parisienne. 

Cherry-ice. 

Puree of Chicken ^ la St. Mande. — Prepare two quarts of 
puree a la reine as directed [No. 288], finishing with a liaison of four 
egg-yolks, two gills of cream, and a pinch of sugar ; put in a soup- 
tureen two cucumbers pared, freed from seeds, cut in small pieces, and 



312 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

cooked in broth, half a pint of boiled rice, and half a pint of fine green 
peas ; pour the very hot puree over, add a tablespoonful of finely cut 
chervil ; mix with a spoon, cover, and serve. 

Boiled Salmon, Nonpareil Sauce. — Take a five-pound middle- 
cut piece of salmon ; put in a stewpan with enough highly acidulated 
and salted water to cover, sliced vegetables, and a bunch of parsley 
with aromatics ; cover with a sheet of paper, boil slowly, and let sim- 
mer an hour ; drain, slide on a folded napkin, surround with parsley- 
leaves and eight large, boiled crayfish, and serve with the following 
sauce : 

Nonpareil Sauce. — Prepare a pint of hollandaise sauce slightly 
tinted with lobster or crayfish butter ; cut in small squares a small 
quantity of crayfish tails or red lobster meat, mushrooms, hard white of 
egg, and trufiies ; mix these in the sauce, pour into a sauce-bowl, and 
serve. 

Fillets of Mutton with Peas. — Choose the fillets of a fat 
and tender mutton ; pare off the spine, suet, fat, and sinews from the 
upper fillets ; lard the surface, shape nicely, tie with strings, and put in 
a sautoir with mutton parings, sliced vegetables, and aromatics; moisten 
to half the height of the fillets with broth, cover with a buttered paper, 
and cook in a moderate oven for about two hours, sprinkling the larding 
frequently with the liquid ; strain and free the broth of its fat, and 
reduce to the consistency of a demi-glaze with a ladleful of tomato 
sauce ; cook a quart of green peas with ham [No. 122], pour them into 
a dish; untie, pare, and put the fillets thereon, pour the reduced sauce 
over, and serve. 

Artichokes ^ la Barigoule. — Cut off the stalks, and all the 
under leaves, cut the tips of the other leaves, and pare the bottoms 
of four large artichokes ; parboil ten minutes, cool, drain, and remove 
the choke and inner leaves ; scrape or rasp four ounces of fat pork, 
put in a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of chopped shallots ; fry a 
little, add a pint of chopped mushrooms and parsley, boil ten minutes, 
then put a tablespoonful of flour kneaded with butter and a ladleful of 
espagnole sauce, salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; stir, and boil a little longer; 
fill the artichokes with this stuffing, cover with square slices of pork, tie 
with strings to keep in shape ; put in a sautoir with a glass of white 
wine and half a pint of broth ; drop a little oil over, cover with an 
oiled paper, and cook forty minutes in a moderately heated oven ; drain 
on a cloth, remove the strings and lard, dish up, pour some italian sauce 
in the centre of each artichoke, and serve with more sauce in a sauce- 
bowl. 



COOKERY BOOK. 313 

Roast Woodcock ^ la Grimod. — Pick four or more wood- 
cock ; take out the eyes and remove the skin from the head ; singe, 
and then draw the gizzard with the crop ; void the trail, truss up the 
feet, skewer with the bill, and cover the breast with a thin barde of fat 
pork ; chop up the trail with the same quantity of rasped lard, salt, 
pepper, and chopped shallot and parsley ; toast four slices of bread, 
spread the prepared trail on one side, sprinkle a few crumbs over, put 
the birds on the spit and the toast in the pan to receive the drippings ; 
roast before a brisk fire for about twelve minutes, range the toast on a 
dish, put the birds thereon, pour a ladleful of rich gravy round, and 
serve with quartered lemons on a plate. 

Cherry-Ice. — Pick and remove the pits of enough juicy cherries to 
make a pint and a half of juice ; rub through a sieve, and proceed 
exactly as directed [No. 154] for currant-ice. 



No. 186. 

Thursday, July 5. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Vermicelli, a la Navarraise. 

Broiled sheep's-head with anchovy butter ; 
Baked mashed potatoes. 

Mutton chops al' Avignonnaise ; 
Windsor-beans, English style. 

Broiled chicken a la Livournaise ; 
Tomato salad. 



Blackberries with cream. 

Vermicelli, ^ la Navarraise. — Thicken five pints of consomme 
[No. 133], with two ounces of flour slightly browned in butter ; add a 
pint of tomato puree, boil half an hour, skim well, and pass through a 
fine strainer ; boil separately for ten minutes a half pound of coarse 
vermicelli in slightly salted water ; drain well, add to the soup, boil a 
minute longer, skim again, and pour into the soup-tureen. 

Broiled Sheep's-Head with Anchovy-Butter. — Scale, cut off 
the fins, and cleanse thoroughly a large or two medium-sized sheep's- 
head ; cut deep incisions on each side, season with salt and pepper, 
baste with oil, and broil slowly and well over a slow charcoal fire : knead 
well two tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovies with four ounces of 
mellow table butter and the juice of a lemon ; put this on a lukewarm 
dish, place the fish over, and serve with quartered lemons on a plate. 

Mutton Chops a 1' Avignonnaise. — Select a tender and not too 
fat rack of mutton ; cut in chops, pare, cut the rib-bones short, and 



314 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

remove the superfluous fat ; put the chops in a saucepan with the 
parings, sHced carrots and onions, and a garnished bunch of parsley ; 
cover with light broth, put the lid on, and boil an hour ; drain and 
pare the chops ; range them in a circle in a deep buttered baking-dish, 
the fleshy end up, and one overlapping the other ; mask them with a 
very consistent avignonnaise sauce, besprinkle with fresh white crumbs 
and grated parmesan cheese ; drop a few tablespoonfuls of sweet oil 
over, and bake slightly brown in a brisk oven. 

Avignonnaise Sauce. — Put in a small saucepan two tablespoon- 
fuls of sweet oil, four chopped shallots, and two bruised cloves of gar- 
lic ; fry a little, add a pint of bechamel sauce, stir, and boil a minute ; 
season highly, finish with three raw egg-yolks, two tablespoonfuls of 
grated parmesan cheese, and chopped parsley ; stir steadily on the fire 
until the sauce thickens, and then use. 

Windsor-Beans, English Style.— Procure three pints of young 
and fresh gathered windsor-beans ; cook in salted water, drain, put in 
a saucepan with two ounces of butter, a little sugar, salt, pepper, nut- 
meg, two tablespoonfuls of white sauce, and a few sprigs of finely chop- 
ped mint and savory ; toss the whole until well mixed ; pour into a 
vegetable-dish, and serve with a large and thick pat of butter on the 
centre. 

Broiled Chicken ^ la Livournaise. — Pare, singe, draw, and slit 
down the back two or more spring chickens ; cut off the legs and flat- 
ten with the cleaver ; put in a dish to steep for an hour, with 
salt, pepper, sweet oil, lemon-juice, two bay-leaves, sprays of par- 
sley, and sliced onions ; then drain, besprinkle with fresh crumbs, and 
broil slowly and of a nice color until thoroughly done while basting 
occasionally with the marinade ; put on a dish, surround with water- 
cress, and serve with a livournaise sauce [No. i6i] in a sauce-bowl. 

Tomato Salad. — Choose large, ripe, and fleshy tomatoes ; pare off 
the stem side, cut in thin slices, range in a salad-bowl, season with 
salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar, and serve as cold as possible. 

Blackberries with Cream. — Pick the blackberries, put them 
in a compot-dish, keep in a cool place, and serve with a pitcher of 
cold, fresh cream and a bowl of powdered sugar, so that each person 
may sweeten to taste. 



COOKERY BOOK. 315 



No. 187. 

Friday, July 6. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Eel, a 1' Americaine. 

Collops of salmon a 1' Espagnole ; 
Fried hashed potatoes. 

Stewed chicken k la paysanne ; 
Sea-lcale, English style. 

Fillets of lamb i la Ste. Menehould ; 
Escarolle salad ; 

Bavarois a 1' orange. 

Eel, d, r Americaine. — Skin, draw, and singe two large eels on 
live coals in order to kill the oily taste ; scrape off carefully, wash well, 
wipe dry, cut in short pieces, and put in a saucepan on a brisk fire 
with four ounces of melted butter, and a bunch of parsley with aro- 
matics ; toss the whole until the moisture is mostly evaporated ; drain 
the butter off, moisten with a pint of catawba wine and two quarts of 
fish-broth [No. 327], slightly thickened with an ounce and a half of 
flour kneaded with butter ; add a pint of peeled and seedless tomatoes 
cut fine, set to boil, and simmer half an hour, skim, remove the parsley, 
and season rather highly ; cut round thin slices of outer crust of french 
bread, fry them in clarified butter, put in a soup-tureen, pour the fish 
and all over, and serve. 

Collops of Salmon ^ 1' Espagnole. — Take a tail-piece of fresh 
(not frozen) salmon weighing about three pounds ; remove the bone 
and skin, cut in about sixteen thin collops, flatten slightly, pare a little, 
and season with salt and pepper ; melt four ounces of butter in a large 
sautoir, range the collops in it, put on a brisk fire, stir them a little, 
and cook them well and carefully on both sides ; then drain and pile 
them up on a dish ; put a pint of espagnole sauce in the sautoir, reduce to 
the desired consistency, finish with two ounces of butter, the juice of a 
lemon, and chopped parsley ; mix well, pour the sauce over the fish, 
surround with heart-shaped slices of bread fried in butter, and serve. 

Stewed Chicken a la Paysanne. — Singe, draw, and divide two 
large and tender chickens as for fricassee ; pare neatly, range in a 
sautoir with two ounces of melted butter and four tablespoonfuls of 
sweet oil ; season with salt and pepper, and fry briskly, and slightly 
brown on both sides ; drain off part of the fat, besprinkle with an 
ounce of sifted flour, fry a little, moisten with a glass of sherry wine 
and about a pint and a half of light broth ; set to boil while tossing 
occasionally to prevent the sauce from getting lumpy, add carrots and 
turnips cut the size and thickness of a nickel, some parsley-leaves, and 



3i6 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

a small bunch of parsley with aromatics ; cover, and boil slowly for 
about forty minutes ; dish up, remove the bunch of parsley, pour the 
sauce and vegetables over the chickens, and serve. 

Sea-Kale, English Style. — Pare the stalks nicely, wash well, and 
tie in small bunches of even size ; cook in salted and acidulated water 
slightly thickened with a little flour kneaded with butter ; drain care- 
fully on a cloth, untie, dish up in the folds of a large napkin, and serve 
with a well-buttered white sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Fillets of Lamb a la Ste. Menehould. — Take a short and 
thick saddle of lamb ; remove the superfluous fat from the inside 
and the spine and hip bones without injuring the outside, take off the 
thin skin that covers the fillets ; season inside the fillets with salt and 
pepper, chopped shallots, parsley, and mushrooms ; tie up nicely, but 
not too tight, put in a roasting-pan, baste over with melted butter, be- 
sprinkle with fresh crumbs and a little parmesan cheese, and cook in a 
moderate oven for about an hour, taking care to baste occasionally 
with the drippings or melted butter ; untie, dish up, and serve with an 
italian sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Bavarois a 1' Orange. — Clarify a pint of orange jelly with an 
ounce an a half of gelatine, and twelve ounces of sugar as directed [No. 
i2i] ; put on ice, stir with a spatula until the jelly thickens ; mix care- 
fully with a quart of well-whipt cream [No. 77] ; fill an entremet-mould, 
imbed in ice, cool thoroughly, and serve in the usual way. 



No. 188. 

Saturday, July 7. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Consomme a la Magenta. 

Sheep's-head a la Cai-oline ; 
Broiled potatoes. 

Noix of veal a la Bechamel ; 
Flageolet-beans a la maitre d' hotel. 

Broiled woodcock with cress ; 
Lettuce salad a la Parisienne. 



Mousse aux peches. 
Consomme d la Magenta. — Prepare five pints of consomm^ 
[No. 133] ; add a pint of tomato puree, some cooked vegetables, such 
as carrots and potatoes cut in small squares, small peas, cut string- 
beans, and a dozen small white onions boiled in broth ; boil the whole 
a few minutes ; skim, add a tablespoonful each of tender celery-leaves, 
parsley, and chervil cut very fine ; pour into a soup-tureen, and serve 
with short pieces of grisini bread separately on a plate. 



COOKERY BOOK. 317 

Sheep's-Head a la Caroline. — Select a large and thick sheep's- 
head ; cleanse, pare off the fins, make a deep lengthwise incision to 
the bone on each side ; place on a buttered dish-pan with salt, pepper, 
chopped shallot, green pepper, a bunch of parsley, two ounces of 
butter, a half pint of white wine, and a pint of water or light broth ; 
cover with a buttered paper, boil, and cook in a moderate oven for 
forty minutes, taking care to baste often with the liquid ; strain the 
liquid in a saucepan, thicken with an ounce of flour kneaded in butter, 
boil five minutes, finish with four ounces of butter, lemon-juice, and 
chopped parsley ; slide the fish on a dish, pour the sauce over, sur- 
round with a dozen tomatoes stuffed a la Caroline [No. 280], and 
serve. 

Noix of Veal a la Bechamel. — Procure a noix of fat, white 
veal with the udder attached ; insert lengthwise some long strips of 
fat pork ; season with salt and pepper, and put in a saucepan with 
sliced vegetables and a bunch of parsley with aromatics ; moisten with 
white broth, cover, boil, and then let simmer in the oven for about 
three hours ; strain, free the gravy from its fat, and reduce to a demi- 
glaze sauce ; pare slightly, and dish up the veal, pour some bechamel 
sauce round the veal and the demi-glaze over ; serve with more sauce 
in a sauce-bowl. 

Flageolet-Beans a la Maitre d' Hotel. — Procure three pints 
of fresh-shelled and nearly ripe green beans (flageolets) ; boil until ten- 
der in slightly salted water with a little butter ; drain, put in a sauce- 
pan with four ounces of butter, salt, pepper, chopped parsley, and 
lemon-juice ; mix well by tossing the beans, pour into a dish, and 
serve. 

Broiled Woodcock with Cress. — Take eight woodcock ; 
pick, singe, remove the skin of the head and the eyes, draw off the 
crop and gizzard, slit down the back, take out and save the trail, and 
flatten a little ; season with salt and pepper, baste with oil, put on a 
plate, and keep on ice until wanted ; chop the trail with a little rasped 
lard and chicken-livers, salt, pepper, and chopped parsley ; spread it 
on eight thin toasted slices of bread, scatter a few fresh crumbs 
over, add small bits of butter, and range on a tin plate ; a few minutes 
before serving broil the birds rather rare, and cook the prepared toast 
in the oven ; then place each bird on its toast, range on a dish, pour a 
half-melted maitre d' hotel sauce over, put a handful of water-cress on 
each end of the dish, and serve with quartered lemons on a plate. 

Mousse aux Peches. — Take enough peaches to make a pint of 
pulp ; immerse them a few moments in boiling water in order to peel 



3i8 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

easily ; peel, remove the pits, and rub the fruit through a hair-sieve ; 
mix with twelve ounces of powdered sugar, cool thoroughly, mingle 
with sufficient well-whipt cream [No. 77] to fill a three-pint conical 
mould previously imbedded in ice and lined with white paper ; cover 
hermetically, add more salted ice so as to cover the mould entirely, and 
keep it in the freezer for at least two hours before serving ; then dip 
the mould in cold water, and serve in the ordinary way. 



No. 189. 

Sunday, July 8. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Chicken, a la princesse. 

King-fish, white-wine sauce ; 
Potato croquettes. 

Casserolle of rice a la Toulouse ; 
Haricots panaches a la maitre d' hotel. 

Salmi of woodcock au chasseur ; 
Tomato salad. 

Peach-ice. 

Chicken-Broth ^ la Princesse. — Thicken three quarts of 
chicken-broth [No. 310] with three ounces of flour cooked in butter; 
boil half an hour, and skim well ; remove the outer leaves, wash well, 
parboil, cool, and press the water out of a dozen heads of lettuce ; slit 
in two, fold a teaspoonful of chicken force-meat in each half, range in 
a buttered sautoir, season with salt and pepper, and moisten with a 
ladleful of white broth ; cover with a round sheet of buttered paper, 
then cook for about half an hour, and until the liquid is evaporated ; 
put a liaison of four egg-yolks and a cup of cream in the soup, mix 
quickly, and cook a little without boiling ; strain in a soup-tureen, add 
a pint of green peas ; serve with the lettuce, well drained and trimmed, 
separately on a dish. 

King-Fish, White-Wine Sauce. — Take four medium-sized 
king-fish ; cleanse nicely, wipe dry, make an incision from head to 
tail on each side ; range in a buttered baking-dish strewn with chopped 
onions and parsley ; season with salt and pepper, put small bits of but- 
ter on each fish, moisten with half a pint of white wine and two ladle- 
fuls of white broth ; boil, and cook in the oven for about half an hour, 
taking care to baste frequently with the liquid ; drain, and slide the 
fish on the serving-dish ; add more broth, if required, and thicken the 
liquid in a small saucepan with an ounce of flour kneaded with butter; 
boil a little, finish with four ounces of butter and lemon-juice ; mix 
well, press through a napkin, pour the sauce over the fish, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. - 319 

Casserolle of Rice a la Toulouse. — Wash three pounds of 
rice well, until the water comes clear, and put it in a thick-bottomed 
saucepan with three quarts of water, salt, and three ounces of butter ; 
set to boil, cover, and let cook thoroughly on a very slow fire for about 
fifty minutes, taking care to stir the rice occasionally ; then pound in 
the mortar or knead well with a strong spatula ; this done, put it in a 
buttered, elegantly shaped french pie-mould on a buttered tin sheet, 
taking care to press the rice down evenly to keep it solid ; when cold, 
take the mould off ; make notches round the edge, and cut a hole on 
the top about three fourths of an inch from the edge; egg the notched 
edge all round, color nicely in a brisk oven, remove the inside with a 
spoon, leaving only enough rice for a compact, solid crust ; fill the 
inside with a ragout a la Toulouse (No. 343], put a large, nicely larded, 
and glazed heart sweetbread on top, and serve. 

Salmi of Woodcock au Chasseur. — Pick, truss, cover the 
breast with a thin barde of lard, and roast rather rare eight woodcock; 
divide each bird in four pieces, including the head ; pare, season well, 
and keep warm ; put the parings in a small saucepan with a gill of 
burgundy wine, two chopped shallots, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, and 
a pint of espagnole sauce ; reduce to the desired consistency, finish 
with two tablespoonfuls of good sweet oil, and press through a napkin; 
dish up the woodcock on small toast stuffed with the trails and livers 
chopped fine, highly seasoned, and slightly baked ; pour the sauce over 
all, and serve. 

Peach-Ice. — Rub enough very ripe peaches through a fine sieve 
to obtain a pint of pulp ; scald, peel, bruise fine a dozen peach almonds, 
and rub them, also through a fine sieve ; mix the whole with a quart of 
syrup at thirty degrees (pese-syrop), and freeze in the ordinary way. 



No. 190. 

Monday, July 9. — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup : Puree of fresh beans with rice. 

Fillets of weak-fish a la Horly ; 
Potato cakes. 

Mutton chops 4 la Salvandy ; 
Green corn. 

Chickens k la reine, sauce supreme ; 
Lettuce and chervil salad. 



Tourte au verjus. 

Pur^e of Fresh Beans with Rice. — Take two quarts of fresh 
white beans ; put them in a saucepan with salt, an onion, a quartered 



320 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

carrot, a garnished bunch of parsley, two ounces of butter, and boiling 
water to cover ; boil briskly until well done, strain and preserve the 
liquid, remove the parsley and carrot, and pound the beans to a puree ; 
dilute to the desired thickness with their liquid and white broth, return 
to a saucepan, stir to a boil, let simmer ten minutes ; skim, season to 
taste, finish with two ounces of butter, pour into a soup-tureen, add a 
pint of boiled rice, mix well, and serve. 

Fillets of Weak-Fish a la Horly. — Take the fillets of four 
medium-sized weak-fish ; pare off the skin and bones ; season with salt, 
pepper, and lemon-juice ; roll in flour, dip in eggs well beaten with two 
tablespoonfuls of sweet oil, then roll again in fresh crumbs ; smooth 
evenly, give every one the form of a ring by soldering both ends with 
beaten eggs, thrust a short skewer through each to keep it in shape, 
and fry light brown and crisp in plenty of clear hot fat ; drain on a 
cloth, salt a little, pile them up on a folded napkin, put fried parsley 
on top, surround with quartered lemons, and serve with tomato sauce 
in a sauce-bowl. 

Mutton Chops a la Salvandy. — Select two short, fleshy, and 
fat-covered racks of mutton, pare off the spine and the red skin from 
the surface ; tie and truss with short skewers to keep in proper shape ; 
put into a sautoir with sliced vegetables and a bunch of parsley with 
aromatics ; season with salt and pepper, moisten with a gill of sherry 
wine and white broth to half the height of the mutton ; cover with a 
buttered paper, and cook in a moderate oven for an hour and a half, 
taking care to baste often with the liquid ; drain the mutton, strain and 
free the liquid from its fat, reduce to the consistency of a demi-glaze 
with a ladleful of espagnole sauce ; boil three pints of green peas in 
salted water, drain, pound to a puree, rub through a sieve, dilute with 
boiled cream, season with salt and pepper, two ounces of butter, and 
a little sugar ; pour part of this on an entree-dish ; divide the mutton 
into chops, dish up in a circle, pour the rest of the puree in the centre, 
the reduced gravy over the chops, ornament the rib-bones with small 
paper ruffles, and serve. 

Green Corn. — Pare off the stems and outer leaves of enough green 
corn ; boil in water with a small piece of butter to whiten it ; then 
drain, and serve in the folds of a large napkin with small pats of but- 
ter separately on a plate. 

Chickens ^ la Reine, Sauce Supreme. — Prepare three small 
and well-fed spring chickens ; put a piece of butter into each one, 
truss nicely, put slices of peeled lemon on the breasts and tie over them 
thin bardes of fat pork ; cook in rich white broth^ with sliced vegetables 



COOKERY BOOK. 321 

and a small bunch of parsley ; then untruss, drain well, and dish them, 
the small ends up against a triangular piece of bread fried pretty hard 
and made fast on the centre of a dish with some thick sauce ; garnish 
the top with a few large fresh mushrooms ; pour a supreme sauce, 
made with the broth, over all, and serve. 

Tourte au Verjus. — Prepare and cook exactly as directed for 
tourte of pineapple [No. 177]. 

Verjuice Marmalade. — Pick and parboil slightly a quart of large, 
full-sized green grapes ; cool, drain (slit on one side and remove the 
seeds, if found convenient), put in an untinned copper basin with a 
pound of white sugar, and stir steadily on the fire until reduced to the 
desired consistency ; then cool in an earthen vessel. 



No. 191. 

Tuesday, July 10. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Vermicelli, a la Grecque. 

Hatelets of sole a la Villeroi ; 
Mashed potatoes. 

Stewed pigeons a la rentiere ; 
Windsor-beans a la Westphalienne. 

Fillets of beef a la Polonaise ; 
Sweet pepper and tomato salad. 

Orange-flower jelly. 

Vermicelli ^ la Grecque. — Thicken slightly five pints of con- 
somme [No. 133] with two ounces of flour cooked in butter ; boil half 
an hour and skim well ; prepare in a soup-tureen a liaison of six egg- 
yolks, with a cup of cream, the juice of a lemon, two ounces of butter, 
and grated nutmeg ; mix at first with a pint of boiling soup, stirring all 
the time, then pour the rest in ; add half a pound of well drained ver- 
micelli cooked in slightly salted water ; mix well, and serve. 

Hatelets of Sole a la Villeroi. — Take the fillets of four small 
flounders : remove the skin, spread on the table, cover each fillet with 
a thin layer of fish force-meat [No. 12], roll them up, put them on 
eight silver skewers, in a buttered baking-dish, with salt, pepper, nut- 
meg, small bits of butter atop, and a gill of white wine ; cover with a 
buttered paper, and cook in the oven, basting occasionally to make 
them absorb the liquid ; drain, besprinkle with pulverized crackers ; 
dip in eggs well beaten with two ounces of melted butter, roll in fresh 
white crumbs, then roll them again, skewer and all, in a single thickness 
of well-buttered white paper, and broil light brown over a very slow 



322 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

fire of red cinders ; remove the paper, range the fillets on a dish, pour 
a consistent and slightly buttered tomato sauce round, and serve. 

Stewed Pigeons ^ la Rentidre. — Pick, singe, and truss four 
full-grown squab ; put in a saucepan with a piece of butter, fry a little, 
moisten with broth, add a little salt and a small bunch of parsley, and 
boil thirty minutes ; drain the pigeons ; skim the fat, remove the pars- 
ley, and thicken with an ounce of flour cooked in butter ; boil a while, 
finish with a liaison of three egg-yolks, two ounces of butter, and lemon- 
juice, and press through a napkin ; untruss and dish up the pigeons, gar- 
nish with two dozen small white onions, cooked in broth ; pour the 
sauce over, and serve. 

Windsor-Beans a la Westphalienne. — Take three quarts of 
large windsor-beans, boil in salted water until the skin comes off, drain, 
cool, and peel ; cut half a pound of raw ham in small squares, fry 
light brown with a little butter, besprinkle with an ounce of flour, 
dilute with half a pint of rhine wine and a little broth, season with 
pepper and a bunch of parsley with savory ; let simmer half an hour, 
add the beans, boil a little longer until the beans are done, remove the 
parsley, and serve. 

Fillets of Beef a la Polonaise. — Take two pounds of lean 
tenderloin of beef, well freed from fat and sinews ; chop very fine, add 
half a pound of picked beef-suet also chopped fine ; season with salt, 
pepper, and nutmeg, chop again and mix well ; divide in eight or more 
parts, flatten the size of an ordinary steak, roll in bread-crumbs, dip 
in beaten eggs, then roll in crumbs again ; smooth nicely, and fry until 
done light brown in a large sautoir with clarified butter ; dish up in a 
circle, fill the centre with small, round, fried potatoes, pour a demi- 
glaze sauce round, and serve. 

Orange-Flower Jelly. — Pick about three ounces of freshly 
gathered orange flowers, and put them in an earthen vessel ; pour a 
quart of boiling syrup at thirty degrees (pese-syrop) over ; cover, let 
steep two hours, and strain through a jelly-bag ; clarify an ounce and 
a half of gelatine with a pint of water, mix with the flavored syrup, 
fill a jelly-mould, imbed in ice, cool thoroughly, and serve on a flat 
compot-dish. 



COOKERY BOOK, 323 

No. 192. 

Wednesday, July 11. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Vegetable, i la Polonaise. 

Broiled mackerel a la Flamande ; 
Boiled potatoes a la HoUandaise. 

Calf's brain, tartar sauce ; 
Noques k la Badoise. 

Spring ducks a la Duclair ; 
String-bean and onion salad. 

Flemish cake. 

Vegetable, el la Polonaise. — Put in a soup-pot two pounds of 
soup-beef, a fowl, half a pound of bacon, half a pound of smoked 
sausages, two carrots, two turnips, a small savoy cabbage, two leeks, salt, 
and a bunch of parsley and celery leaves ; cover with water, and set to 
boil ; scum, and then let boil slowly until the beef is done, lifting out 
the other ingredients as soon as each is cooked ; skim all the fat, and 
strain the broth ; chop two onions, put into a saucepan with two 
ounces of butter ; fry light brown ; add two ounces of flour, dilute with 
three quarts of broth, and boil half an hour ; cut the sausages in small 
rounds, the meat of the fowl, half of the bacon, the cabbage and leeks 
in small pieces, and the turnips and carrots in small thin slices ; put 
the whole in a soup-tureen, pour the boiling broth over, and serve. 

Broiled Mackerel a la Flamande. — Take two large, very fresh 
mackerel (small ones are generally soft, tasteless, and unhealthy) ; cut 
off the fins and part of the head, slit down the back, remove the spine, 
season with salt and pepper, baste with oil, and broil briskly ; range on 
a dish, surround with quartered lemon, and serve with flemish sauce 
[No. 4] in a sauce-bowl. 

Fried Calf's Brain, Tartar Sauce. — Remove the arteries, and 
steep four calves' brains in cold water for two hours ; put in a sauce- 
pan with strongly acidulated water, salt, pepper-corns, a bunch of pars- 
ley with aromatics, and a sliced onion ; boil slowly for about forty 
minutes, drain on a cloth, divide each lobe in two or more pieces ; 
sprinkle with dry crumbs, dip in beaten eggs, roll in fresh white 
crumbs ; range in a frying-basket, immerse in plenty of very hot fat, and 
fry of a nice color ; drain, salt a little, dish up on a folded napkin, put 
fried parsley on top, and serve with a tartar sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Noques it la Badoise. — Put twelve ounces of hardly melted 
butter in an earthen vessel ; stir with a wooden spoon until it thickens ; 
add, one by one, three egg-yolks and three whole eggs, stirring all the 
while till the compound is frothy ; season with salt and nutmeg ; add 



324 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

ten ounces of sifted flour, mix, then add four egg-whites beaten to a 
froth ; have salted boiling water in a large sautoir on the side of the 
fire ; then with two tablespoons drop spoonfuls of the compound 
into the water ; when the whole is in let the water boil, remove to the 
side again, and let simmer until the noques are firm ; drain on a cloth 
and range by layers in a vegetable-dish, sprinkling each layer with 
grated parmesan cheese and very hot clarified butter. 

Spring Ducks ^ la Duclair. — Singe and draw two large and fat 
spring ducks ; stuff them with the hearts and livers chopped fine and 
seasoned with salt, pepper, chopped shallots, and parsley ; truss, fasten 
both ends closely, and roast rather rare ; carve them on a dish to save 
the juice and the stuffing, and put on the serving-dish ; reduce the 
juice and stuffing with a gill of claret wine and a ladleful of demi-glaze 
sauce ; express the juice of an orange, add chopped parsley, season 
highly ; pour this over the ducks, surround with thin heart-shaped 
slices of bread fried in butter, and serve. 

Flemish Cake. — Put in an earthen vessel four ounces of sifted 
flour with a pound of powdered sugar, four whole eggs and six yolks ; 
stir, and mingle well with a wooden spatula while adding four more 
egg-yolks, two ounces of melted butter, two ounces of sultana raisins, 
and two ounces of currants ; beat the ten egg-whites to a froth, and 
mix the whole carefully ; put in a buttered, plain, six-inch-wide and 
three-inch-deep pastry-mould, .and cook in a moderate oven until firm 
and light brown ; egg, and cover with finely sliced almonds mixed with 
egg-white and finely powdered sugar ; glaze of a light color in the oven-; 
serve cold. 



No. 193. 

Thursday, July 12. — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup : Calf's foot, a la Dumas. 

Cutlets of salmon a la Chevreuse ; 
Potatoes a la duchesse. 



Baked sheep's tongue a la Duxelles ; 
Red cabbage a la Flamande. 

Loin of veal a la Proven9aIe ; 
Lettuce salad. 



Cream Colbert, with almonds. 

Calf's Foot, a, la Dumas.— Take four white calves' feet ; singe, 
slit in two, remove the main bone, and steep in cold water for two 
hours ; cook until soft in slightly salted and acidulated water whitened 
with an ounce of flour, quartered onions, and a bunch of parsley with 



COOKERY BOOK. 325 

aromatics ; . drain, take off all the small bones and press between two 
tin sheets with a weight on top until cold, then cut in half-inch squares ; 
thicken three quarts of consomme with three ounces of flour browned 
in butter ; add a loosely tied bunch of parsley with thyme, basil, bay- 
leaves and marjoram, and half a pint of marsala wine ; boil half an 
hour, skim, press through a napkin, add the feet and a little red pepper; 
let boil, pour into a soup-tureen, and serve with sliced lemon on a 
plate. 

Cutlets of Salmon ^ la Chevreuse. — Take a three-pound 
middle-cut of small-sized salmon ; slit in two down the back, remove 
the bone and skin, divide in eight or more chop-like pieces, season with 
salt, pepper, and lemon-juice ; range in a sautoir with melted butter, 
and cook briskly on both sides ; drain and press gently between two 
tin sheets until cold ; spread a thin layer of fish force-meat [No. 12] 
on each side, besprinkle with dry crumbs, dip in beaten eggs, roll in 
fresh crumbs, shape nicely, and fry both sides light brown in clarified 
butter ; insert small lobster-claws in the small ends, dish up in a circle, 
pour a lobster sauce [No. 271], in the centre and serve. 

Baked Sheep's Tongue ^ la Duxelles. — Steep eight fresh 
sheep's tongues in hot water for an hour ; parboil five minutes, scrape 
the white skin off, boil in salted and acidulated water whitened with an 
ounce of flour, a sliced onion, and a bunch of parsley ; drain, cut off 
the throats, and divide laterally in two ; make some stuffing with soaked 
and well-pressed white of bread, chopped shallots, parsley, mushrooms, 
salt, pepper, butter, and three egg-yolks ; spread part of this in a circle 
on a dish, range the tongues on it, fill the spaces with the rest of the 
stuffing ; pour a duxelles sauce [No. 65] over, besprinkle with bread- 
crumbs and a little grated cheese, drop an ounce of melted butter on 
top, bake light brown for about fifteen minutes ; press a little lemon- 
juice over, and serve. 

Red Cabbage a la Flamande. — Cut a pound of streaky salt 
pork in small pieces ; put it in a saucepan with six ounces of lard ; 
fry light brown, add two sliced red cabbages, salt and pepper, and 
six large, cored, and sliced green apples ; moisten with a glass of 
brandy and half a pint of white broth ; boil a while, press down a 
little, cover with a buttered paper, put the lid on and cook slowly in the 
oven for about two hours, until the liquid is entirely reduced to a glaze ; 
drain off the fat, mix carefully with a wooden spoon, pile up on a dish, 
and serve. 

Loin of Veal a la Provengale. — Remove the spine and hip 
bone, pare and truss nicely a loin of white, fat veal with the kidney 



326 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

attached ; put in a roasting-pan, season with salt and pepper, baste 
with melted butter, and cook slowly for about an hour and a half ; drain 
on a dish, untruss, surround with tomatoes stuffed a la provengale [No. 
141] ; skim the fat, strain and reduce the drippings with a ladleful of 
demi-glaze sauce, pour this over the veal, and serve. 

Cream Colbert, with Almonds. — Scald and blanch a half- 
pound of sweet almonds with about eight bitter ones ; pound to a 
pulp, with three tablespoonfuls of water ; mix with three pints of 
cream boiled with ten ounces of sugar, and press forcibly through a 
napkin ; dissolve on the fire an ounce and a half of clarified gelatine 
with a gill of water, mix with the cream, strain, pour into an entrejnet- 
mould imbedded in ice, cool thoroughly, and serve as a jelly. 



No. 194. 

Friday, July 13. — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup : Codfish chowder. 

Broiled porgies, ravigote sauce ; 
Timbales of potatoes. 

Rump of beef a la Parmentier ; 
Baked eggs a la Maltaise. 

Chicken saute a la Proven9ale ; 
Cauliflower salad. 



Suedoise of peaches. 

Codfish Chowder. — Take an eight-pound, very fresh cod ; 
take off the fillets, pare off the skin, and cut the meat in squares ; 
put the head, skin, and bones in a saucepan with a gallon of white 
broth, a pint of white wine, pepper-corns, four blades of mace, four 
cloves, two bay-leaves, sprigs of sage and thyme, a handful of parsley, 
and a piece of butter ; cover, and boil slowly for forty minutes ; then 
pour the whole into a fine strainer, and press gently with a skimmer to 
extract all the liquid ; chop two large onions, put in a saucepan with 
an ounce of butter and two ounces of finely chopped salt pork ; stir on 
the fire long enough to evaporate the moisture ; add the broth, four 
large potatoes and four peeled tomatoes both cut in small squares, four 
ounces of finely bruised and steeped pilot-bread ; cover, and boil half 
an hour ; add the fish, boil five minutes longer, skim a little, season 
highly; finish with chopped parsley and two ounces of butter ; mix 
carefully, so as not to bruise the fish, and serve. 

Broiled Porgies, Sauce Ravigote. — Have four pounds of large 
porgies ; cut off the fins, cleanse well, and wipe dry ; make slight inci- 
sions on each side, baste with oil, and broil well ; range on a dish, pour 



COOKERY BOOK. 327 

a little melted butter over, surround with quartered lemons, and serve 
with ravigote sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Rump of Beef a la Parmentier. — Take a piece of fresh rump 
of beef weighing about eight pounds, and cook as directed [No. 345] ; 
strain and free the gravy from its fat, and reduce to the consistency of 
a demi-glaze with two ladlefuls of espagnole sauce ; pare and dish up 
the beef ; pile up some small round potato croquettes on each side, 
pour some of the sauce over, and send the rest to table in a sauce-bowl. 

Eggs Baked a la Maltaise. — Put two ladlefuls of allemande 
sauce in a saucepan with two ounces of butter, three ounces of grated 
parmesan cheese, two tablespoonfuls of broth, pepper, and nutmeg ; 
stir on the fire, and mix well ; add a dozen hard-boiled eggs cut in 
thick round slices ; mix carefully ; spread a layer in a buttered deep 
dish, then some well-reduced stewed tomatoes and grated cheese, and 
so on until the whole is used ; besprinkle with fresh crumbs and grated 
cheese, drop a little melted butter over, bake light brown, and serve. 

Chicken a la Proven^ale. — Choose two large tender chickens ; 
singe, draw, and divide as for fricassee ; range in a sautoir with four 
ounces of oil ; season with salt, nutmeg, white and a little red pepper, 
cover, and fry briskly and light brown on both sides ; add two bruised 
cloves of garlic, chopped onion, sliced mushrooms, and a garnished 
bunch of parsley ; fry a little longer, strain part of the oil off, moisten 
with a pint of espagnole sauce, four peeled, seedless, and sliced toma- 
toes, and a gill of white wine ; cover, and boil thirty minutes ; dish the 
chicken up elegantly, making the leg and wing bones protrude ; add 
chopped parsley and lemon-juice to the sauce, pour it over the chicken; 
surround with heart-shaped slices of bread fried in butter, put small 
paper ruffles on the bones, and serve. 

Suedoise of Peaches. — Select twelve large fine peaches ; parboil 
a few moments in syrup until the peel comes off easily : part them in 
halves, and drain on a hair-sieve ; cut a large four-inch-high, cork- 
shaped piece of bread and two dozen thin peach-sized slices ; fry them 
in butter, make the large one fast with a little marmalade on the centre 
of a dish, put each half-peach upon the small slices, and pile in two 
rows round the centre-piece, finishing with a half-peach on top ; reduce 
the syrup, pour it over the peaches, place the half of a blanched peach- 
almond upon each peach, and serve. 



328 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 195. 

Saturday, July 14. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Macaroni, a la Canino. 

Matelote of black-fish ; 
Potato balls a la Rouennaise. 



Veal ciftlets, breaded, English style ; 
String-beans a la poulette. 

Beefsteaks a la Grecque ; 
Beet and lettuce salad. 



Rose-leaf jelly. 

Macaroni, a la Canino. — Roast a tender guinea-fowl ; take off the 
meat, chop and pound fine with a piece of butter ; rub through a sieve 
and dilute with half a pint of rich beef gravy ; boil a pound of maca- 
roni for twenty minutes in salted water, drain in a colander ; turn 
boiling hot into a sautoir ; add a half pound of fine butter in small 
bits, six ounces of grated parmesan cheese, and the fowl-puree ; dish 
up by layers in a buttered, deep dish, alternately with grated cheese 
and beef gravy ; pour four ounces of very hot clarified butter over, 
and serve with a tureen of rich consomme [No. 133]. 

Matelote of Black-Fish. — Procure four pounds of medium-sized 
black-fish ; scald a few moments in boiling water in order to scale 
easily ; cut off the heads, fins, and tails ; part in pieces, boil in a sauce- 
pan with salt, pepper, two cloves of garlic, sliced onions, a bunch of 
parsley, and nearly cover with claret wine and water in equal parts ; 
put the lid on and boil half an hour, drain the fish into another sauce- 
pan, thicken the liquid with an ounce and a half of flour kneaded with 
butter, and boil ten minutes ; besprinkle two dozen small white onions 
with a little powdered sugar and fry light brown until soft in clarified 
butter ; drain and add to the fish with some sliced mushrooms ; skim 
and finish the sauce with two ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of es- 
sence of anchovies, and lemon-juice ; press through a napkin over the 
well-drained fish, dish up, pour the sauce and garnishing over, surround 
with heart-shaped slices of bread fried in butter, and serve. 

Veal Cutlets, Breaded, English Style. — Cut eight medium- 
sized veal cutlets out of a loin of veal ; flatten well, pare off most of 
the fat and bones, season with salt and pepper, and fry partly with but- 
ter ; press until cold between two tin sheets with a weight on top, and 
reduce a pint of tomato sauce in the pan where the cutlets have been 
fried ; pare the cutlets again, sprinkle with dry crumbs, dip in eggs 
well beaten with two ounces of melted butter, roll in fine fresh crumbs, 
and smooth nicely ; fry both sides light brown in a sautoir with clari- 



COOKERY BOOK. 329 

fied butter ; strain on a cloth, dish up in a circle, pour the tomato 
sauce in the centre, and serve. 

String-Beans ^ la Poulette. — String, slit in two, and cool 
enough string-beans in salted water and drain on a cloth without cool- 
ing ; put in a saucepan an ounce of butter with half an ounce of flour ; 
cook a little, dilute with half a pint of water, boil two minutes, and 
thicken with a liaison of two egg-yolks and four ounces of butter in 
small bits ; add the beans, chopped parsley, and the juice of half a 
lemon ; toss carefully, and serve. 

Beefsteaks a la Grecque. — Take four pared sirloin steaks 
weighing about twelve ounces each ; flatten slightly, season with salt 
and pepper, put in a sautoir with melted butter, and fry on both sides 
on a brisk fire until firm ; add two chopped onions, fry a little longer, 
moisten with a gill of marsala wine, half a pint of espagnole sauce, and 
half a pint of stewed tomatoes ; cover and let simmer an hour ; pare, 
quarter, and remove the seeds of two small egg-plants, cut in inch- 
thick slices ; shake these in a napkin with a handful of flour and fry 
until soft in plenty of clear hot fat ; drain on a cloth and besprinkle 
with salt ; range the steaks on a dish ; add chopped parsley to the 
sauce, pour it over the steaks, surround with the fried egg-plant, and 
serve. 

Rose-Leaf Jelly. — Pick ten ounces of well-scented rose-leaves 
and proceed as directed [No. 191] for orange-flower jelly ; add a 
liqueur-glassful of maraschino and a few drops of carmine to give a 
slight rose tint. 

N. B. — Proceed in the same way with all fresh-flower jellies. 



No. 196. 

Sunday, July 15. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Chicken, a la Malmaison. 

Broiled Spanish mackerel, anchovy-butter ; 
Broiled potatoes. 

Mutton chops with chiccory ; 
Carrots a la Lilloise. 

Chickens a la reine, sauce vert-pre ; 
Escarolle salad. 



Oranges a la Portugaise. 



Chicken, a la Malmaison. — Prepare three quarts of chicken- 
broth [No. 310] ; save the chicken-breast for force-meat ; cook 
slightly three ounces of flour with three ounces of butter, dilute with 



330 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

the broth, stir to a boil, and let simmer slowly on the side of the fire 
for half an hour ; make twelve ounces of chicken force-meat [No. 294], 
tinting one half slightly with spinach-green [No. 107] ; have salted boil- 
ing water in a saucepan ; with two teaspoons form small quenelles and 
drop them in the water ; when all are in (green and white) boil an 
instant, and remove to the side until firm, then drain them on a sieve ; 
pare, quarter, and cook in white broth to a glaze some very small 
carrots ; put them in a soup-tureen with the quenelles and small 
flowerets of cauliflowers ; skim, and then mix a liaison of four egg- 
yolks with a cup of cream in the soup ; strain while pouring into the 
soup-tureen, and serve. 

Broiled Spanish Mackerel, Anchovy-Butter. — Procure a 
large, fresh Spanish mackerel ; cleanse nicely, wipe dry, slit down the 
back, and proceed as directed for sheep's head [No. 186] ; serve in 
the same way. 

Mutton Chops with Chiccory. — Procure eight thick, fat-cov- 
ered mutton chops ; pare off the spine and the superfluous fat, and 
cut the rib-bones rather short ; with a larding-needle fasten short, 
square pieces of fat pork across the lean part ; range in a saucepan, 
cover with the parings, sliced vegetables, a bunch of parsley and aro- 
matics, and a quart of broth ; boil, cover, and cook an hour ; then 
drain, and press the chops until cold between two tin sheets with a 
weight on top ; strain, and free the broth from its fat, add a ladleful 
of espagnole sauce, and reduce to a demi-glaze ; then pare the chops, 
and warm them in the sauce ; prepare some chiccory-puree [No. 252], 
spread some in the centre of an entree-dish, range the chops in a circle 
alternating with heart-shaped slices of bread fried in butter ; pour 
more chiccory in the centre and the sauce over, put small paper ruffles 
on the bones, and serve. 

Carrots a la Lilloise. — Pare and cut enough new carrots in 
sixth-of-an-inch-thick slices ; put in a saucepan with half a pint of 
water, salt, a teaspoonful of sugar and an ounce of butter ; cover, and 
cook about half an hour, tossing occasionally ; add a liaison of three 
egg-yolks with a half-cup of cream, an ounce of butter, and chopped 
parsley ; mix carefully by tossing in the saucepan, and serve. 

Chickens a la Reine, Sauce Vert-Pre.— Prepare and cook 
three small and fat spring chickens as directed [No. 190] ; dish in the 
same way, add chopped chervil and tarragon, and enough spinach- 
green to give a light-green tint to the sauce ; pour this over the chick- 
ens, and serve. 

Oranges a la Portugaise. — Select eight even-sized smooth or- 



COOKERY BOOK. 331 

anges ; cut an inch-wide round hole on the stem side, take the pulp 
out with the small end of a teaspoon, and steep the skins in cold water ; 
drain, and scrape the inside smoothly without injuring the peel ; cut 
small, and steep in maraschino liqueur some candied fruits, such as 
citron and orange peel, angelica and raisins ; mix these with sufficient 
orange ice [No. 42] ; fill the oranges, cover with the small piece taken 
out, put in a sorbetiere (freezer), surround and cover with salted ice 
for at least two hours before serving ; remove the cover carefully, take 
the oranges out, range them whole on a folded napkin, and serve. 



No. 197. 



Monday, July 16. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Puree of fresh beans a la Soubise. 

Fried king-fish, tomato sauce ; 
Potatoes a la Lyonnaise. 

Gristle of veal in marinade ; 
Stuffed kohl-rabis au veloute. 

Spring ducks a la St. Mande ; 
Water-cress salad. 



Tourte of peach marmalade. 

Puree of Fresh Beans a la Soubise. — Boil three pints of 
fresh white beans in salted water with four ounces of salt pork, a 
bunch of parsley, an onion with three cloves in it, and an ounce of 
butter ; drain in a colander, and save the liquid ; remove the pork, 
onion, and parsley, pound the beans to a puree, and dilute with the 
liquid and broth ; slice and parboil four large white onions, cool, press 
the water out, and put in a saucepan with two ounces of butter, salt, 
pepper, and nutmeg ; stir until the moisture is evaporated, sprinkle 
an ounce of flour over, dilute with a pint and a half of cream, boil a 
minute, and mix with the puree ; rub through a fine sieve, return in a 
saucepan, boil again, add two ounces of butter and a teaspoonful of 
sugar ; pour into a soup-tureen, and serve with small squares of 
bread fried in butter separately on a plate. 

Fried King-Fish, Tomato Sauce. — Procure four pounds of 
small king-fish ; pare, cleanse well, wipe dry, cut small incisions on 
each side, dip in milk, roll in flour, and fry crisp and light brown in 
clear, hot fat ; drain, besprinkle with salt, dish up on a folded napkin 
with quartered lemons, and serve with a tomato sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Tomato Sauce. — Remove the stems and wash a gallon of ripe 
tomatoes ; bruise and put them in a stewpan on a slow fire to dissolve; 



332 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

cut small two carrots, an onion, two ounces of salt pork, and two ounces 
of raw ham ; put them in a saucepan with two ounces of butter, stir on 
the fire until the butter turns clear ; add two ounces of flour, and fry 
a little longer ; add the drained tomatoes, and a quart of white broth ; 
mix well, season with salt, pepper, a bunch of parsley with aromatics, 
and a teaspoonful of sugar ; cover, and boil slowly for forty minutes, 
stirring occasionally ; remove the parsley, rub through a fine sieve, 
boil again, skim, and finish with two ounces of butter. 

Gristle of Veal in Marinade. — Procure a fat and narrow breast 
of white veal ; divide, steep, cook, press, and pare as directed [No. 
184] ; put in a deep dish for two hours with salt, pepper, oil, vinegar, 
sliced onion, thyme, bay-leaves, and parsley ; drain, immerse in a flour 
batter, fry crisp and thoroughly ; dish up on a napkin with fried pars- 
ley in the centre, and serve with a marinade sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Marinade Sauce. — Put in a saucepan sliced onions, parsley, and 
aromatics (or the ingredients used in the above marinade), with an 
ounce of butter ; fry a little, add an ounce of flour, dilute with a pint 
of white broth and two tablespoonfuls of white-wine vinegar, salt, and 
pepper ; boil fifteen minutes, skim, and press through a napkin. 

Stuffed Kohl-Rabis au Veloute. — Pare and parboil eight or 
more kohl-rabis (turnip-rooted cabbage) ; cut in two, scoop out the 
inside, fill them with fine herbs mingled with sausage-meat, and a little 
sauce ; range them in a baking-pan with white broth to half their 
height, and bake half an hour, basting occasionally with the liquid ; 
drain, and range in a dish; skim, and reduce the liquid with two ladle- 
fuls of veloute sauce, pour this over the cabbage, and serve. 

Spring Ducks a la St. Mande. — Roast two tender spring 
ducks ; surround with cucumbers cooked as directed [No. 154], well 
drained and slightly fried in butter ; add a little broth, skim, and re- 
duce the drippings with a ladleful of demi-glaze sauce, pour this over 
the ducks, and serve, 

Tourte of Peach Marmalade. — Proceed as directed [No. 
.^77], but use peach marmalade [No. 355] instead of pineapple. 

House-keepers will perceive that this bill of fare is, like most of the 
others, very economical ; the broth from the veal may be used for the 
different sauces, both soup and vegetable, and the arrangement will 
satisfy the daintiest epicure. 



COOKERY BOOK. 333 



No. 198. 

Tuesday, July 17. — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup : Rice and lemon. 

Coquilles of salmon, a I'ltalienne ; 
Stewed potatoes. 

Croquettes of beef palates ; 
Puree of broad beans. 



Roast leg of lamb with spinach ; 
Chiccory salad a la Gasconne. 

Calf's-foot jelly a la Windsor. 

Rice and Lemon Soup. — Prepare two quarts of chicken-broth 
[No. 310] ; melt an ounce of butter in a saucepan, add an ounce of 
flour, stir and cook a minute, dilute with the broth, and boil half an 
hour ; wash and cook six ounces of rice with another quart of chicken- 
broth ; prepare in a soup-tureen a liaison of six egg-yolks with a cup 
of cream, grated nutmeg, two ounces of butter in small bits, and the 
juice of a lemon ; pour the boiling soup over, slowly at first, stirring 
steadily ; add the rice, and serve. 

Coquilles of Salmon a 1' Italienne. — Cut small collops out of 
a three-pound tail-piece of salmon ; flatten slightly, and season with 
salt, pepper, and lemon-juice ; put in a sautoir with melted butter, 
cook until firm and drain on a plate ; put a pint of veloute sauce, 
chopped mushrooms and parsley in the sautoir, and thicken with a 
liaison of four egg-yolks ; return the fish and mix carefully ; butter 
eight silver-plated or tin baking-shells, fill them with the fish and sauce, 
besprinkle with fresh bread-crumbs and a little grated parmesan cheese, 
drop melted butter over, and bake light brown in a brisk oven ; press 
the juice of a lemon over, range on a folded napkin, and serve. 

Croquettes of Beef Palates. — Procure six white beef palates ; 
steep in warm water, boil five minutes and scrape the skin off ; put in 
a saucepan with salted and acidulated water whitened with an ounce 
of flour, sliced onions, pepper-corns, and a bunch of parsley with aro- 
matics ; cover and boil about three hours ; drain and press between two 
tin sheets with a weight on top until cold, then cut in very small squares; 
put an ounce of butter in a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of chopped 
shallots, and fry a little ; add a pint of veloute sauce, stir and boil 
three minutes, thicken with a liaison of six egg-yolks, add the palates 
and chopped parsley, stir two minutes longer, press in the juice of a 
lemon, and turn into a dish to cool ; finish and fry as directed for 
chicken croquettes [No. 175], and serve with a tomato sauce in a sauce- 
bowl. 



334 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Puree of Broad Beans. — Parboil three quarts of broad windsor- 
beans until the peel comes off ; drain, remove the peel, stir into a 
saucepan with two ounces of melted butter ; moisten with white broth 
add a bunch of savory, cover and boil an hour ; bruise to a puree, rub 
through a sieve, return to a saucepan, add four ounces of butter, a little 
sugar, and a gill of cream ; pour into a deep dish, surround with triangle- 
shaped slices of bread fried in butter, and serve. 

Roast Leg of Lamb with Spinach. — Choose a thick and fat 
leg of lamb ; pare the knuckle-bone, salt and roast rather well for about 
an hour ; prepare some spinach as directed [No. 125], chop it a little, 
season with salt and pepper, and the surface of the drippings ; put the 
lamb on a dish, surround with the spinach, put a white-paper ruffle on 
the bone, and serve the rest of the drippings in a sauce-bowl. 

Calf 's-Foot Jelly ^ la Windsor. — Bone and steep a set (four) 
of calf's feet in cold water for an hour; parboil, wash well, and cook in 
a saucepan with a gallon of water until soft ; skim off all the fat, pass 
the liquid through a wet napkin, and put some on ice in a saucer to 
cool, so as to ascertain the consistency ; if too hard add water, and if 
too soft boil a little longer ; put three pints of this liquid in a saucepan 
with four cloves, a little ginger and cinnamon, the juice of two lemons, 
twelve ounces of sugar, and a gill of madeira- wine ; beat two eggs 
with a little water, mix with the preparation, stir on the fire to a boil, 
strain twice through a jelly-bag, fill eight or more crystal jelly-goblets, 
cool thoroughly, and serve one to each person. 



No. 199. 

Wednesday, July 18. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Calf's head, k la duchesse. 

Lafayette-fish, mustard sauce ; 
Saratoga potatoes. 

Sheep trotters a la poulette ; 
Gnocchis a 1' Italienne. 

(Veal cutlets 4 la Pajarski ; 
Vegetable salad. 

Swiss tart. 

Calfs Head, cl la Duchesse. — Singe off the remaining hairs from 
a small, white calf's head ; bone, steep in water for an hour, and boil 
in salted and acidulated water whitened with a handful of flour until 
the head is so tender that a stiff straw may be pushed through it ; 
drain, immerse in cold water, remove the fat, and press until cold be- 



COOKERY BOOK. 



335 



tween two tin sheets ; thicken three quarts of consomme [No. 133] 
with three ounces of flour slightly browned in butter, add a bunch of 
parsley with aromatics, and boil forty minutes ; cut the head in rounds 
of half-inch square pieces, put in a saucepan with white and red pep- 
per and half a pint of sherry wine ; give a boil, strain the soup over, 
and boil three minutes longer ; add two dozen small quenelles [No. 126], 
and a pint of macaroni cut in inch-lengths ; pour into a soup-tureen 
and serve with pared and sliced lemons on a plate. 

Lafayette-Fish, Mustard Sauce. — Take three pounds of La- 
fayette-fish (a sea-chubb, commonly so-called because in 1824, when 
General Lafayette visited America, it was very abundant, and thought 
by many to be a new species) ; cut off the fins, cleanse, and wipe dry, 
dip in cold milk, roll in flour, and fry the fish crisp in plenty of very 
hot fat ; drain, sprinkle with salt, range on a napkin, add fried parsley 
on top, and serve with a mustard sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Sheep Trotters ^ la Poulette. — Procure a dozen well-scalded 
sheep trotters ; singe, tie with tape in three bunches so as to keep them 
straight, and cook in salted water whitened with flour ; drain, remove 
the shank-bone and the woolly tuft between the hoofs ; put the trot- 
ters in a saucepan with a quart of veloute sauce, a glass of white wine, 
salt, and pepper ; stir five minutes, finish with a liaison of four egg- 
yolks, four ounces of butter, chopped parsley, and lemon-juice ; mix 
well, and serve. 

Some first-class Paris restaurants owe their popularity to this cheap 
and most excellent dish. 

Gnocchis a 1' Italienne. — Put half a pint of water in a saucepan 
with half an ounce of butter, salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; boil, add five 
ounces of sifted flour, stir three minutes, put in an ounce of grated 
parmesan cheese, stir a little longer ; take off the fire, and stir in three 
eggs, one by one ; with two teaspoons drop the whole in spoonfuls in 
boiling water, and let simmer until firm ; drain on a cloth, range by 
layers on a buttered vegetable-dish, alternating with grated cheese and 
melted butter ; pour some bechamel sauce thickened with three egg- 
yolks over, besprinkle with crumbs and grated cheese, bake briskly of 
a nice color, and serve. 

Veal Chops a la Pajarski. — Take three pounds of fillet of veal 
freed from fat and sinews ; chop very fine with half a pound of beef 
marrow or veal suet ; season with salt and pepper, divide in eight parts, 
oil, and flatten in pieces the size and shape of a veal chop ; besprinkle 
with dry crumbs, dip in beaten eggs, roll in fresh crumbs, smooth 
nicely, and fry light brown on both sides in clarified butter ; dish in a 



336 FRA NCO-A M ERIC A N 

circle, pour a tomato or a rich demi-glaze sauce m the centre, and 
serve. 

Swiss Tart. — Prepare short-paste in a pastry-ring as directed for 
tarts ; mix some raisins, previously steeped in a light syrup, with some 
frangipane cream [No. 347] ; fill the tart, bake in a moderate oven, be- 
sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve cold. 



No. 200. 

Thursday, July 19. — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup : Sweetbread, i la Pontoise. 

Bonito a la Polonaise ; 
Boiled and browned potatoes. 

Braised ducks with small onions ; 
Stuffed artichokes. 



Roast rack of veal a la Very ; 
Lettuce salad. 



Rissoles of peaches. 

Sweetbread, ^ la Pontoise. — Prepare four quarts of chicken- 
broth [No. 310], thicken with three ounces of flour cooked in butter; 
add slices of raw ham, a bunch of parsley with aromatics, two leeks, 
pepper-corns, and half a pint of white wine ; boil an hour, skim, and 
press through a napkin into another saucepan ; pare, steep well, and 
parboil four sweetbreads ; divide these in two, boil ten minutes in 
broth, cut in half-inch squares, stew slowly in butter, and drain on a 
plate ; cut six white turnips in thin half-inch squares, cook in white 
broth, drain, put in the soup with the sweetbreads, and give a boil ; 
pour into a soup-tureen, add a pint of boiled rice, and serve. 

Bonito a la Polonaise. — Procure a fresh bonito weighing about 
four pounds ; pare off the fins, make a deep lengthwise incision on 
each side, and wipe well ; season inside with salt, pepper, chopped 
shallot, and parsley ; put on the leaf in a fish-kettle with a pint of 
rhine wine, a quart of light broth, sliced vegetables, and a bunch of 
parsley with aromatics ; cover with a buttered paper, set to boil, and 
cook in the oven for about an hour, taking care to baste occasionally ; 
strain, and reduce the liquid to a pint and a half, thicken with an 
ounce and a half of flour browned in butter ; boil, skim, add two 
ounces of butter, lemon-juice, and a little of red pepper, and press 
through a napkin ; slide the fish on a dish, surround with cooked mus- 
sels and mushrooms, add a row of plain-baked tomatoes upon the fish, 
pour the sauce over all, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 337 

Braised Ducks with Small Onions. — Take two fat spring 
ducks, singe, draw, pare off the wings and legs, thrust the stumps 
inside, and truss nicely ; put in a saucepan with two ounces of butter, 
fry light brown all round, drain the butter off, moisten with a gill of 
white wine, a pint of espagnole sauce, and half a pint of broth ; add a 
bunch of parsley with two bay-leaves and a sprig of thyme, cover, and 
stew forty minutes ; then strain, and reduce the sauce ; add two dozen 
small glazed onions, boil five minutes longer, and skim all the fat ; un- 
truss, and dish up the ducks, pour the sauce over and the onions round, 
and serve. 

Stuffed Artichokes. — With a sharp knife pare off all the leaves 
from eight large tender artichokes ; parboil until the choke comes off 
easily ; cool, remove the choke, and pare the bottom, then cook in 
salted and acidulated water whitened with flour ; drain on a cloth, fill 
them with a fine-herbs' stuffing, and bake as directed [No. 16] ; range 
on a dish, pour a demi-glaze sauce round, and serve. 

Roast Rack of Veal a la Very. — Choose a fat thick rack of 
white veal cut from first covered rib down, and including the kidney ; 
pare off the spine-bone and tendon, and shorten the ribs ; truss nicely 
with short skewers, tie, put in a roasting-pan, salt a little, baste with 
butter, add a glass of water, and roast slowly for an, hour and a half, 
basting frequently with the drippings ; untruss, and dish up the veal, 
surround with a garnishing of string-beans a la Very [No. 169]; strain, 
skim, and reduce the drippings with a ladleful of espagnole sauce ; 
pour this over the meat, and serve. 

Rissoles of Peaches. — Proceed exactly as directed [No. 67] for 
rissoles a la Marie Stuart, but fill them with peach [No. 355] instead of 
orange marmalade, and serve in the same way. 



No. 201. 

Friday, July 20. — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup : Lobster, i la mariniere. 

Eel pie a la Lorraine ; 
Stuffed potatoes. 

Rump of beef with spinach ; 
Stuffed cucumbers, Grecian style. 

Mutton chops a la Clamart ; 
Escarole salad. 



Cream jelly, English style. 
Lobster, 3. la Mariniere. — Prepare two quarts of not too strong 
fish-broth [No. 327], with the addition of two slightly bruised lobsters 



338 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

and the liquor of fifty small boiled Little Neck clams ; thicken with 
three ounces of flour cooked in butter ; add a half-pint of sherry wine 
and a little red pepper ; boil half an hour ; take up the meat from the 
lobsters, cut in squares, and put in a soup-tureen with the clams and a 
dozen small white onions boiled in broth ; skim the soup, finish with 
four ounces of red butter [No. 135] made with the lobster-eggs, coral, 
or shell ; mix well, strain in the soup-tureen, and serve. 

Eel Pie cl la Lorraine. — Skin, draw, and pare nicely two large 
eels ; slit open, remove the spine, season with salt and pepper ; spread 
a layer of fish force-meat on each side, roll up, and cut in four-inch 
lengths ; line a buttered pie-mould with short-paste as directed [No. 
22], spread a thin layer of force-meat on the bottom, with chopped 
shallots, mushrooms, and parsley, then a layer of eel with a ladleful of 
veloute sauce and a glass of white wine ; continue until the mould is 
filled, finishing with force-meat ; wet the edge, cover with a thin flat of 
the same paste, make them adhere by pressing gently between the 
thumbs and forefingers ; pare and trim with a pastry-pinch ; wet 
again, cover with a smaller layer of feuilletage paste, egg the surface, 
make a hole in the centre, and cook to a brown color in a moderate 
oven for an hour and a half; let rest half an hour, remove the mould 
carefully, and serve hot on a folded napkin with a ravigote sauce in a 
sauce-bowl. 

This pie is, when served cold, excellent for breakfast, excursion 
parties, pic-nics, etc., but ought to be filled with jelly the night before 
using. 

Rump of Beef with Spinach. — Cook an eight-pound rump- 
piece of beef as directed [No, 345] ; surround with stiff-mashed spin- 
ach prepared with the gravy ; pour part of the reduced gravy over the 
beef, and serve the rest in a sauce-bowl. 

Stuffed Cucumbers, Grecian Style. — Pare off the peel and 
both ends of four large cucumbers; divide in two-inch lengths, parboil, 
drain on a cloth, remove the seedy part with a small paste-cutter ; fill 
with a Avell-seasoned, raw mutton force-meat chopped fine with beef- 
suet and fine herbs ; put this in a buttered sautoir with a ladleful of 
broth ; cover with a buttered paper, and bake fifteen minutes ; drain, 
range on a dish ; reduce two ladlefuls of tomato sauce with the liquid 
in the sautoir, pour this round the cucumbers, and serve. 

Mutton Chops ^ la Clamart. — Pare, season, baste with butter, 
roll in fresh crumbs, and broil nicely eight fat-covered mutton chops ; 
dish up in a circle, fill the centre with a puree of green peas [No. 141]; 
pour a little demi-glaze sauce over, add small paper ruffles to the bones, 
and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 



339 



Cream JeMy, English Style. — Cut in pieces and infuse for an 
hour a vanilla-bean in a quart of boiling milk ; mix eight egg-yolks 
with ten ounces of powdered sugar, dilute with the milk, stir on the fire 
until the preparation thickens, and pass through a fine strainer into an 
earthen vessel ; stir occasionally while cooling, so as to prevent the 
formation of a creamy skin on the surface ; steep in cold water, drain, 
and then dilute an ounce and a half of clarified gelatine in half a pint 
of boiling water, press through a napkin and mix with the cream ; im- 
bed a jelly-mould in ice, fill with the preparation, cover with an inverted 
plate, put more ice over, and cool thoroughly ; serve as an ordinary 
jelly. 



No. 202. 

Saturday, July 21. — Bill of fare for eight persons 

Soup : Duck, i la Hongroise. 

CoUops of salmon a la Nantaise ; 
Mashed potatoes. 

Braised chicken with polenta ; 
Broiled egg-plant, melted butter. 

Mutton steaks, sauce Colbert ; 
Beet and onion salad. 



Compote of peaches. 

Dlick, £l la Hongroise. — Cut a large tender duck in quarters ; 
put in a saucepan with three ounces of butter, two carrots, two turnips, 
two leeks, an onion, and two ounces of raw ham — the whole cut in small 
pieces, — and a bunch of parsley with two bay-leaves, sprigs of thyme, 
and basil ; stir, and fry light brown and until the butter turns clear ; 
besprinkle with three ounces of flour, mix well ; dilute with a quart of 
cold water, a pint of white wine, and two quarts of consomme [No. 
133] ; stir to a boil, and let simmer forty minutes ; drain the duck, re- 
move the bunch of parsley, skim, and rub the rest through a fine sieve 
like a puree ; return to a saucepan, boil again, add a little white and 
red pepper, and salt (if required), finishing with two ounces of butter • 
pour into a soup-tureen, add the fillets of the duck cut small, and a 
pint of barley cooked in broth, and serve. 

Collops of Salmon a la Nantaise. — Take a three-pound tail- 
piece of salmon ; pare off the bone and skin, divide in eight collops, 
pare ; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; range in a sautoir with 
melted butter and a gill of white wine ; cook briskly until firm on both 
sides, and drain on a plate ; boil two dozen oysters in the sautoir, drain 
them also on a plate ; cook and shell a medium-sized lobster, and cut 



340 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

eight thin collops out of the tail and claws ; then cut the remainder in 
small squares ; add a little white broth, and thicken the liquid with an 
ounce and a half of flour kneaded in butter, boil three minutes ; finish 
with a liaison of three egg-yolks, two ounces of butter, and lemon- 
juice, and press through a napkin ; dish up the salmon and lobster 
alternately in a circle, put the oysters and lobster-squares in the centre, 
pour the sauce over, and serve. 

Braised Chicken with Polenta. — Draw, and truss nicely two 
tender chickens ; cover the breast with bardes of fat pork ; put in a 
saucepan with two ounces of butter and two ounces of raw ham ; fry 
light brown all round, and moisten with a glass of white wine, a pint 
of espagnole sauce, and a ladleful of broth ; add a bunch of parsley, 
cover, and stew about forty minutes ; drain, untruss, and put the chick- 
ens on a dish, and surround with eight or more small charlotte-moulds 
of polenta sprinkled with grated cheese ; strain, skim, and reduce the 
sauce to the desired consistency ; pour some over the chickens, and 
serve the rest in a sauce-bowl. 

Polenta. — Boil a quart of white broth in a saucepan with two 
ounces of butter ; then with the left hand let fall gently about twelve 
ounces of polenta (indian-meal), stirring quickly with a wooden spoon 
in the right hand till it is the consistency of a thick gruel ; stir five 
minutes longer, take off the fire, add four ounces of butter and three 
ounces of parmesan cheese, and mix well ; baste eight or more small 
charlotte-moulds with melted beef-extract, fill them with polenta, and 
let set a little while, then turn the moulds over, and besprinkle with 
grated cheese. 

Broiled Egg-Plant, Melted Butter. — Procure four small egg- 
plants ; pare off the stem, but do not peel ; slit in two, cut slight inci- 
sions inside, season with salt and pepper, baste with oil, and broil until 
soft in a double gridiron ; dish in a circle, the inside upward ; pour 
melted butter over, and serve. 

Mutton Steaks, Sauce Colbert. — Cut four thick steaks, bone 
and all, from the round part of a fat and tender leg of mutton ; flatten, 
season with salt and pepper, baste with melted butter, besprinkle with 
fresh crumbs, and broil rather rare ; serve with a colbert sauce in a 
sauce-bowl. 

Compote of Peaches. — Select twelve large peaches, parboil in 
syrup until the peel comes off easily ; remove it, and drain the peaches 
on a hair-sieve ; strain, and reduce the syrup, add a glassful of maras- 
chino, and let cool ; range the peaches on a compot-dish, pour the 
syrup over, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 341 



No. 203. 

Sunday, July 22. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Soft-shell turtle. 

Salmon-trout a la maitre d' hotel ; 
Potatoes a la duchesse. 

Fillet of beef a 1' Athenienne ; 
Broiled mushrooms on toast. 



Woodcock au gastronome ; 
Lettuce salad 4 la Parisienne. 



Muscovite of peaches. 

Soft-Shell Turtle Soup. — Procure a soft-shell tuftle of medium- 
size ; cut the head off, and hang the turtle downward to bleed ; im- 
merse in boiling water, and scrape off the scales ; cut it open, remove 
the gall-bladder and intestines ; put the eggs on a plate ; wash the 
turtle well, cut in pieces, put in a stewpan with cold water enough to 
cover, salt, allspice, black pepper-corns, and a bunch of parsley with 
bay-leaves, thyme, and sage ; let boil slowly until the shell is quite soft ; 
strain, and thicken the broth to the desired consistency with flour 
browned in butter ; take up all the^soft-shell parts, cut in inch squares, 
and put in the soup with the eggs and some small raw veal force-meat 
balls previously fried in butter ; boil five minutes, skim, and finish 
with two ounces of table butter ; put half a pint of good madeira wine 
and a pared and sliced lemon in a soup-tureen ; pour the soup over, 
and serve. 

This soup is a great delicacy, and cannot be over-estimated for its 
wholesome, nutritious qualities and refined taste. 

Salmon-Trout a la Maitre d' Hotel. — Take two medium-sized 
sea salmon-trout ; cleanse, scale well, wash and wipe dry, and cut 
small incisions on each side ; season with salt and pepper, baste with 
oil, and broil slowly and well ; put some maitre d' hotel sauce on a 
dish, range the fish on it, spread more sauce over, and serve with quar- 
tered lemons on a plate. 

Fillet of Beef ^ 1' Athenienne. — Prepare, lard, and cook a 
fillet of beef as directed [No. 275] ; surround with egg-plant fried in 
thick slices [No. 195] ; pour a madeira sauce over the fillet, and serve. 

Broiled Mushrooms on Toast. — Procure enough large fresh 
mushrooms ; pare the stalks, wash carefully, drain on a cloth, season 
with salt and pepper, baste with oil, and broil in a double gridiron on 
a brisk fire ; dish up on thin bread-toast, press lemon-juice and pour 
melted butter over, and serve. 

Woodcock au Gastronome. — Prepare and void four or more 



342 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

woodcock as directed [No. 185] ; chop up the trail with rasped lard, 
finely chopped and pressed shallots and parsley, salt, pepper, and a 
tablespoonful of fresh bread-crumbs ; stuff the woodcock with this, 
sew them up so as to keep the stuffing inside, and cover the breast 
with thin bardes of fat pork ; put the birds on the spit, baste with but- 
ter ; put bread-toast in the dripping-pan to receive their fat, and roast 
the birds rather rare ; unsew, and dish them on the toast, put a glass 
of good sauterne wine in the dripping-pan, reduce a little, strain the 
gravy over the birds, surround with quartered lemons, and serve. 

Muscovite of Peaches. — Choose some ripe and well-flavored 
peaches ; rub enough of them through a fine hair-sieve to make a pint 
and a half of pulp ; break the pits, scald, blanch, and pound the al- 
monds, and rub them through the sieve with the peach ; add ten 
ounces of powdered sugar and an ounce of gelatine diluted in a half- 
pint of boiling water, stir on ice with a wooden spoon until the prep- 
aration thickens, mix with a pint and a half of well-whipt cream [No. 
77] ; fill a cylindrical jelly-mould, close hermetically by filling the 
chinks of the cover with a little butter ; imbed in finely broken salted 
ice for at least two hours before serving, and serve as an ordinary ice- 
cream. 



No. 204. 

Monday, July 23. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Cream of rice a la Cavour. 

Fried pilot-fish, tartar sauce ; 
Potatoes sautees. 

Fricandeau of veal with chiccory ; 
Raviolis, Sardinia style. 

Mutton chops a la Choiseuil ; 
Lettuce salad, Mayonnaise. 

Peach tart a la Montreuil. 

Cream of Rice a la Cavour. — Wash well and boil a pound of 
rice to a puree with two quarts of chicken-broth for about fifty minutes ; 
rub through a very fine sieve, dilute to the desired consistency with 
more broth, and return to a saucepan ; meanwhile put in a bowl two 
whole eggs and six egg-yolks and a little salt, dilute with half a pint of 
almond-milk [No. 96], press through a napkin, put in small buttered 
timbale-moulds, and cook until firm in a sautoir with boiling water to 
half their height ; at serving-time turn them into a soup-tureen ; skim 
and finish the pur^e with two ounces of butter, half a pint of cream, a 



COOKERY BOOK. 343 

little sugar and salt (if required) ; pour carefully into the tureen over 
the timbales, add a pint of macaroni cut in short pieces, and serve. 

Fried Pilot-Fish, Tartar Sauce.— Prepare three pounds of 
pilot-fish ; cut off the fins, wash well, and wipe dry ; cut slight incisions 
on both sides, dip in cold milk, roll in flour, shake the superfluous flour 
off and fry light brown and crisp in plenty of clear, very hot fat ; drain 
on a cloth, sprinkle salt over, range on a folded napkin, and serve with 
tartar sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Fricandeau of Veal with Chiccory. — Pare slightly a noix of 
fat white veal and fasten two-inch-long, small square shreds of salt fat 
pork on the pared side ; butter and line a sautoir with sliced carrots 
and onions and a small bunch of parsley ; put in the veal, the larded 
side upward, salt, moisten with white broth to half its height, cover with 
a buttered paper, boil, and then cook in a moderate oven for about two 
hours, taking care to baste the surface frequently with the gravy, and 
glaze of a nice color ; drain the veal, strain, skim, and reduce the gravy 
to a demi-glaze sauce ; spread some puree of chiccory on a dish, put 
the veal on, pour the reduced gravy over, and serve. 

Raviolis a la Sarde. — Pick and parboil enough spinach to obtain 
a pint when boiled ; cool, and press the water out ; chop fine, put in a 
saucepan with an ounce of butter, and stir on the fire until the moisture 
is mostly evaporated ; add salt, pepper, and nutmeg, a handful of fresh 
crumbs, two ounces of grated parmesan cheese, half a cup of cream, 
and three egg-yolks ; mix well, stir on the fire for two minutes longer, 
and turn into a plate to cool ; make a pound of nouille-paste, and pro- 
ceed to make and cook raviolis as directed [No. 324] ; range by layers 
in a deep buttered dish, alternating with grated cheese and tomato 
sauce and finishing with cheese ; pour four ounces of very hot clarified 
butter over, and serve. 

Mutton Chops a la Choiseuil. — Have eight fat-covered mut- 
ton chops ; trim and pare most of the fat off ; slit the fat side open to 
the bone without parting, flatten slightly, and season with salt and pep- 
per ; spread over a raw force-meat mixed with fine herbs and chopped 
mushrooms ; form the chops again, fry a little, baste all over with the same 
stuffing, fold in pork or lamb leaf-fat, dip in melted butter, roll in fresh 
crumbs, and broil slowly and light brown ; dish up in a circle, pour a 
Colbert sauce in the centre, add small paper ruffles to the bones, and 
serve. 

Peach Tart ^ la Montreuil. — Select eight large ripe peaches ; 
cut them in halves, parboil in syrup, peel and drain on a sieve ; cook a 
pound of rice and prepare a pastry-ring with tart-paste as directed [No. 



344 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

179] ; spread half of the rice on the bottom, add the peaches, cover 
with the rest of the rice, and bake thoroughly in a moderate oven ; be- 
sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve hot. 



No. 205. 

Tuesday, July 24. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Mutton, a la Rouennaise. 

Brook-trout a la Berchoux ; 
Potatoes a la Mantaise. 



Veal cutlets, puree of cucumbers ; 
Windsor-beans a la Bechamel. 

Broiled chicken, sauce piquante ; 
Tomato and beet salad. 



Pineapple jelly. 

Mutton Soup ^ la Rouennaise. — Have a neck and shoulder of 
not too fat mutton ; bone the shoulder, put in a stewpan with the neck, 
bones, and other meat-parings (if any), and two pounds of soup-beef, 
salt, pepper-corns, a carrot, two turnips, and an onion with three cloves 
in it, a well-garnished bunch of parsley, and two cloves of garlic ; cover 
with water, and boil two hours ; drain the shoulder, pare off the fat 
and sinews, and cut the meat in very small collops ; return the parings 
to the stewpan, and boil an hour longer ; cook separately until thor- 
oughly done to a puree six ounces of barley with a quart of broth ; 
skim all the fat, and strain the mutton-broth ; add sufficiently to the 
barley, and rub through a very fine sieve, so as to obtain a very smooth 
puree ; add the colloped mutton, boil a little longer, skim, finish with 
a half pint of very fresh cream and two ounces of butter ; pour into a 
soup-tureen, and serve. 

Brook-Trout a la Berchoux. — Scale, void, pare, and cleanse 
well two large brook-trout ; slit open, remove the spine, and stuff 
slightly with fish force-meat [No. 12], mixed with chopped parsley and 
mushrooms ; sew them up and put them in a buttered baking-pan 
with salt, pepper, a sliced onion, sprays of parsley, and aromatics ; 
moisten with a gill of white wine and a little broth ; cover, and cook 
slowly, taking care to baste occasionally ; put the liquid in a sauce- 
pan, reduce with a pint of espagnole sauce, finish with two ounces 
of butter and lemon-juice, and press through a napkin ; slide the trout 
on a dish, range a row of mushroom-heads on top, garnish with small 
fish quenelles, pour part of the sauce over, surround with eight large 
cooked crayfish, and serve with the rest of the sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Veal Cutlets with Puree of Cucumbers.— Take eight small 



COOKERY BOOK. 345 

veal cutlets ; flatten, pare, season with salt and pepper, put in a sautoir 
with melted butter, fry light brown on both sides ; drain the butter off, 
moisten with a glass of sherry wine, a little broth, and two ladlefuls of 
espagnole sauce ; cover, and stew fifteen minutes ; pour some puree of 
cucumbers on a dish, range the cutlets in a circle, pour the reduced 
sauce over, and serve. 

Puree of Cucumbers. — Pare, slit in four, and remove the seeds 
of six cucumbers ; cut in slices, parboil, drain, and put in a saucepan 
with an ounce of butter, and stir on the fire until consistent ; add two 
ounces of flour kneaded in butter, salt, pepper, and a little sugar; dilute 
with a pint of milk, stir to a boil, rub through a small sieve, and finish 
with an ounce of butter. 

Windsor-Beans a la Bechamel. — Cook three pints of young 
windsor-beans as directed [No. 186] ; add an ounce of flour kneaded 
in butter, and half a pint of cream ; stir, and boil five minutes ; season, 
and finish with chopped savory and parsley, and four ounces of butter 
in small bits. 

Broiled Chicken, Sauce Piquante. — Singe, draw, slit down the 
back, flatten, and pare two fat spring chickens ; baste with oil, season 
with salt and pepper, and broil nicely and well ; dish up on four pieces 
of toast, pour a piquante sauce round, range slices of pickled gherkin 
on the edge of the dish, and serve. 

Pineapple Jelly. — Pare, divide in four, and cut a large pineapple 
in thin slices, and put it in an earthen vessel ; boil a quart of syrup at 
thirty degrees (pese-syrop), pour it over the pineapple, cover, and let 
macerate an hour ; chop the parings with a handful of powdered 
sugar, mix with the juice of tAvo oranges and two lemons, and pass 
through a filtering paper ; clarify an ounce and a half of gelatine with 
a pint of water [No. 2] ; strain the syrup through a jelly-bag, mix with 
the gelatine and the filtered juice, fill a cylindrical jelly-mould im- 
bedded in ice, cool thorougly, and serve in the ordinary way. 



No. 206. 

Wednesday, July 25. — Bill of fare for eight persons 

Soup : Beef palate, English style. 

Lobster, sauce marinade ; 
Potatoes, Navarraise. 

Chicken saute, Bayonnaise ; 
Stuffed tomatoes a 1' Espagnole. 

Roast neck of mutton, currant jelly ; 
Chiccory salatl. 

Peach and rice pudding. 



346 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Beef Palate, English Style. — Procure four white beef palates, 
steep them in warm water, parboil five minutes, scrape the white skin 
off, and cook till quite soft in a saucepan with white broth, a carrot, an 
onion, and a bunch of parsley with aromatics ; drain, and press between 
two tin sheets with a weight on top until cold ; clarify the broth with 
two well-beaten eggs, and strain through a wet napkin ; add sufficient 
consomme [No. 133] to make three quarts, and give a boil ; cut the 
palates in half-inch squares, put in a saucepan with a gill of madeira 
wine and a pinch of red pepper, boil a little, and put in a soup-tureen 
with a half pint of small egg-quenelles [No. 283] ; skim, and pour the 
boiling broth over, and serve with pared and sliced lemon on a plate. 

Lobster, Sauce Marinade. — Take two good-sized lobsters ; 
boil in salted water with a gill of vinegar, sliced onions, parsley, aro- 
matics, and pepper-corns, for twenty-five minutes ; take off the fire, 
and leave in the water for ten minutes longer ; drain, slit open, crack 
the claws, remove the large intestine and stony pouch between the 
eyes ; pare off the small legs, cut all the meat in slices, return to the 
shell, the red side uppermost ; dish up, pour a marinade sauce [No, 
197] over, besprinkle with chopped parsley, and serve. 

Chicken Saute a la Bayonnaise. — Singe, pare, draw, and di- 
vide two fat spring chickens as for fricassee ; put in a sautoir with two 
ounces of sweet oil, salt, and pepper ; fry quickly and light brown on 
both sides, add an onion, and two ounces of ham cut in small squares, 
fry a little longer ; strain most of the oil off, put in a bunch of parsley, 
moisten with a glass of sherry wine, a little broth, a pint of espagnole 
sauce, and six peeled and seedless tomatoes cut small, cover and cook 
slowly for half an hour ; cook a pound of rice a la bayonnaise [No. 
157] ; fill ^ plain border-mould, and invert on a dish ; remove the 
parsley, add lemon-juice and chopped parsley, and dish up the chicken 
in the centre of the border ; pour the sauce over, and serve. 

Stuffed Tomatoes a 1' Espagnole. — Stuff some tomatoes as 
directed [No. 309], with the addition of finely chopped ham in the 
stuffing, dish up, pour a demi-glaze sauce round, and serve. 

Roast Neck of Mutton, Currant Jelly.— Take together in 
one piece the two racks next the shoulder-blades down to the kidneys 
and including them ; pare off the superfluous fat and the thin skin 
covering the surface ; crack the rib-bones, truss nicely, and roast as 
you would a saddle of mutton for about an hour and a quarter ; un- 
truss, and dish up the mutton, add a ladleful of rich gravy, and serve 
with a glass of currant jelly inverted on a plate. 

Peach and Rice Pudding. — Wash, and boil a pound of rice for 



COOKERY BOOK, 347 

fifteen minutes in two quarts of water ; drain thoroughly on a cloth, 
put in a vessel with four ounces of powdered sugar, four ounces of 
melted butter, and the scalded and peeled peach almonds chopped fine, 
and let cool ; parboil in syrup a dozen peaches, peel, cut in slices, and 
mingle with three ounces of powdered sugar ; wet, and press the water 
out of a large strong napkin, butter and flour the centre, place a layer 
of rice, then a layer of peaches, another layer of rice, and so on until 
the whole is used, finishing with rice ; tie firmly, plunge into a large 
stewpan of boiling water, and boil without interruption for an hour and 
a half ; drain, remove the napkin, turn on a dish, pour the reduced 
peach syrup over, and serve. 



No. 207. 

Thursday, July 26.-rBill of fare for eight persons: 

Soup : Barsh i la Polonaise. 

Fillets of salmon, mussel sauce ; 
Hashed potatoes with cream. 

Tenderloin steaks with nouilles ; 
Green com off the cob. 



Roast duck, shallot sauce ; 
Tomato and cucumber salad. 



Peach Charlotte. 

Barsh ^ la Polonaise. — To make this soup according to the 
polish fashion, it is necessary to have a sour beet-juice prepared 
thus : Rasp or pound a dozen beet-roots, put them in a stone jar 
with a half pail of water and a pound of rye bread-crumbs, cover 
with a cloth and the lid, and put in a warm place to ferment and 
steep for a week. 

Put in a soup-pot two pounds of beef, a knuckle of veal, a duck, 
half a pound of salt pork, four smoked sausages, and a little salt, with 
a gallon of water and a gallon of "beet-juice ; set to boil and scum 
well, add a carrot, an onion, two leeks, a bunch of parsley, with aroma- 
tics and three cloves, allspice, and pepper-corns ; boil slowly, taking up 
the sausages, pork, duck, and beef as each is done ; let the rest boil 
an hour longer, then skim all the fat and pass the broth through a wet 
napkin ; return to a stewpan and boil again ; cut half of the pork and 
part of the beef in small pieces, the sausages in thin rounds, and the 
meat of the duck in small collops ; put in a soup-tureen, add a dozen 
small beef sausage-meat balls, previously fried, and two boiled beets 
cut in small shreds ; pour the boiling broth over, and serve (this broth 
ought to have the tint and limpidity of claret wine). 



348 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Fillets of Salmon, Mussel Sauce. — Take a tail-piece of salmon 
weighing about three pounds ; pare off the skin and bone ; divide 
in eight long fillets, flatten slightly ; season with salt, pepper, and 
lemon-juice ; fold the fillets in two, range in a sautoir with melted 
butter, and cook until firm on both sides ; drain on a tin sheet and 
press lightly ; put in the sautoir an ounce and a half of flour kneaded 
with butter, dilute with a glass of white wine and a pint of white 
broth and mussel liquor in equal parts ; boil ten minutes, finish with 
a liaison of four egg-yolks, two ounces of butter and lemon-juice, 
and press through a napkin ; dish up the salmon in a circle, mix a 
pint of mussels [No. ii8] with part of the sauce, pour in the centre, 
and serve the rest of the sauce in a sauce-bov/1. 

Tenderloin Steaks with Nouilles.— Procure four good-sized 
tenderloin steaks ; pare off most of the fat and sinews, season with 
salt and pepper, and cook light brown and rather rare in a sautoir with 
very hot beef-fat ; take up the steaks, drain off the fat, and put two 
glasses of madeira wine and half a pint of espagnole sauce in the sau- 
toir ; stir, boil five minutes, and press through a napkin ; make a bed 
of prepared nouilles [No. 302] on an oval dish, range the steaks there- 
on, pour part of the sauce over, and serve the rest in a sauce-bowl. 

Spring Ducks, Shallot Sauce. — Singe, pare, and void two fat 
spring ducks ; chop the livers fine with salt, pepper, an ounce of butter, 
and a shallot ; put them in the ducks, fasten the ends, truss, and roast 
rather underdone ; untruss and dish up the ducks, strain the skimmed 
drippings over, and serve with a shallot sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Shallot Sauce. — Chop fine and put four shallots in a saucepan 
with an ounce of butter, mignonette pepper, and a glass of white wine ; 
boil three minutes ; finish with half a pint of slightly thickened and well- 
reduced gravy, lemon-juice, chopped parsley, and an ounce of butter. 

Peach Charlotte. — Scald in syrup a dozen firm peaches ; cut in 
quarters and drain on a sieve ; line a plain charlotte-mould as directed 
[No. 86] for apple charlotte, and fill with alternate layers of very stiff 
apple puree and quartered peaches ; bake and serve as directed in the 
above number, with peach syrup round the base. 



COOKERY BOOK 349 



No. 208. 

Friday, July 27. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Fish-broth a la Russe. 

Stuffed mackerel, anchovy sauce ; 
Potato croquettes. 

Beef patties a la Viennoise ; 
Rice a la Virginienne. 

Veal cutlets with string-beans ; 
Lettuce and chervil salad. 



Omelet soufflee a la vanille. 

Fish-Broth §, la Russe. — Prepare three quarts of clarified fish- 
broth [No. 327] ; cut in fine shreds some carrots, leeks, parsley, and 
celery roots ; cook in a saucepan with an ounce of butter and two 
ladlefuls of broth, reduce to a glaze and put with the fish-broth ; 
add the fillets of a one-pound bass cut in thin collops, boil five 
minutes longer ; pour into a soup-tureen, add small rounds of outer 
crust of bread fried in butter, and serve. 

Stuffed Mackerel, Anchovy Sauce. — Take four fresh mack- 
erel ; pare off the heads, tails, and fins ; slit on one side, remove the 
spine, season with salt and pepper, and stuff with fish force-meat 
mixed with chopped shallots, parsley, and mushrooms ; form the fish 
again, oil and roll them separately in a well-buttered paper made 
fast with a little beaten egg ; range them on a baking-dish, baste with 
sweet oil, and cook in a moderate oven ; remove the paper, range the 
fish on a dish, pour a well-buttered anchovy sauce over, and serve. 

Beef Patties ^ la Viennoise. — Chop two shallots, put them in 
a saucepan with white pepper and four tablespoonfuls of vinegar ; 
reduce to one fourth, add two ladlefuls of espagnole sauce, chopped 
parsley, and lean roast beef cut in small squares ; line eight small 
tart-moulds with feuilletage paste, fill with the prepared beef, wet the 
edge, and cover with a thin round-cut of the same paste ; egg the 
surface, make a hole in the centre, bake light brown, and serve on 
a folded napkin. 

Rice a la Virginienne. — Wash well and parboil twelve ounces 
of rice for five minutes, drain in a colander ; parboil six ounces of lean 
streaked salt pork, cut in inch-squares, drain, and fry light brown in a 
saucepan ; moisten with a quart of broth, add the rice and a little 
pepper, cover and boil twenty minutes, stirring occasionally to pre- 
vent burning at the bottom ; add two ladlefuls of tomato sauce, mix 
well, turn in a heap into a vegetable-dish, surround with small fried 
sausages, and serve. 



350 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Veal Cutlets with String-Beans.— Procure eight small veal 
cutlets from the loin ; pare off the spine and superfluous fat, flatten 
with the cleaver, then fasten short square shreds of fat pork on one 
side ; range in a buttered sautoir, the larded side upward, with sliced 
onions and carrots, lard, and veal parings, and a bunch of parsley with 
aromatics, moisten with a pint of white broth, sprinkle a little salt 
over, cover with a buttered paper, set to boil, and then cook in the 
oven for forty minutes, basting frequently with the gravy, and glazing 
to a nice color ; string, cut in short pieces and cook enough string- 
beans as directed [No. 169] ; spread some on a dish, range the cutlets, 
the larded side uppermost in a circle, and fill the centre with more 
string-beans ; strain, skim all the fat, and reduce the gravy from the 
sautoir to a demi-glaze sauce ; pour this over the cutlets, and serve. 

Omelet Soufflee a la Vanille. — Put six egg-yolks in an earthen 
vessel with four ounces of powdered sugar, including an ounce 
highly flavored with vanilla, and stir until very smooth with a wooden 
spatula ; beat ten egg-whites to a froth in a copper basin, mix care- 
fully with the yolks ; pour at once as high as possible into a slightly 
buttered sweet-meat baking-dish, smooth with the blade of a knife, 
make a deep cut on the centre, and cook in a moderate oven for about 
twenty minutes ; besprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve imme- 
diately. If no vanilla-flavored sugar is on hand, use a little of vanilla 
essence. 



No. 209. 

Saturday, July 28. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Lamb, Winchester style. 

Broiled sea-bass ; 
Hash potatoes sautees. 

Braised ducks with peas ; 
Polenta a la Piemontaise. 

Fillets minion, Bordelaise ; 
Cauliflower salad. 

Peach tart, Portugaise. 

Lamb Soup, Winchester Style. — Procure a whole scrag and a 
shoulder of lamb ; bone the shoulder, crack the bones and scrag ; put 
in a stewpan with two pounds of soup-beef ; add salt, cover with water, 
set to boil, and scum well ; put in two carrots, a turnip, an onion with 
three cloves in it, pepper-corns, and a bunch of parsley with aromatics ; 
cover and boil an hour, take up the shoulder and boil the rest two 
hours longer ; slit the white part of eight leeks in quarters, cut in inch- 



COOKERY BOOK. 351 

lengths, and cook until reduced to a glaze with a little of the broth ; 
pare off the fat and sinews and cut the meat of the shoulder in small, 
thin collops ; skim the fat, and pass three quarts of the lamb-broth 
through a wet napkin, thicken with three ounces of arrow-root diluted 
with a glass of white wine, and boil twenty minutes longer, skim and 
finish with a half pint of boiled cream ; put the leeks and colloped 
lamb in a soup-tureen, strain the soup over, and serve. 

Broiled Sea-Bass. — Select two large sea-bass (small ones broil 
dry) ; scale well, pare off the fins, tail, and part of the head ; slit open, 
remove the spine, season with salt and pepper, baste with oil, and broil 
briskly and light brown on both sides ; slide on a dish the inside up- 
ward, spread a partly melted maftre d' hotel sauce over, surround with 
quartered lemons, and serve. 

Braised Ducks with Peas. — Prepare, truss, and cook two spring 
ducks as directed [No. 200] ; cook a quart of fresh-shelled small green 
peas with four ounces of lean-streaked fat pork cut in squares and 
previously fried, and some gravy from the ducks ; untruss and dish up 
the ducks, pour the peas over, and serve. 

Polenta a la Piemontaise. — Boil three pints of white broth 
with about a pound of polenta (indian meal) and three ounces of butter 
as directed [No. 202] ; butter a plain deep border-mould of adequate 
size, fill with the polenta, press down gently and let rest a while ; then in- 
vert on a dish, range short-split fried sausages on top, pour a well-reduced 
demi-glaze sauce (or the duck gravy) over and in the centre, and serve. 

Fillets Minion ^ la Bordelaise. — Cut eight small beef-tender- 
loin steaks ; flatten, pare nicely, season with salt and pepper, baste 
with sweet oil and roll in fresh bread-crumbs ; smooth with a knife- 
blade and broil rather rare over a moderate charcoal fire ; dish up in a 
circle, alternating with fillet-shaped slices of bread fried in sweet oil ; 
pour a bordelaise sauce in the centre, and serve. 

Bordelaise Sauce. — Put a tablespoonful of finely-chopped shal- 
lots and two bruised cloves of garlic in a saucepan with a little butter ; 
fry a little, add two glassfuls of claret wine, a pint of espagnole sauce, 
and a pinch of red pepper ; reduce to the consistency of a sauce, finish 
with lemon-juice, chopped parsley, and four ounces of beef-marrow cut 
in rounds and hardly heated in salted boiling water ; use immediately. 

Peach Tart ^ la Portugaise. — Butter and line a ten-inch round 
pastry-ring with tart-paste, then prepare, bake, and finish a tart crust 
as directed [No. 156] ; let cool, and mask the bottom with a thin layer 
of peach marmalade ; cut in two and parboil eight large peaches, peel, 
range in the tart, pour the well-reduced syrup over, add the peeled 
half of a peach almond on each piece, and serve cold. 



352 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 210. 

Sunday, July 29. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Chicken, English style. 

Salmon a la Genoise ; 
Potato croquettes 4 la Bechamel. 

Ham i la Comtoise ; 
Cardoons a 1' Espagnole. 

Lamb chops h. la Maltaise ; 
EscaroUe salad. 



Apricot ice-cream. 

Chicken, English Style. — Prepare three quarts of chicken-broth 
as directed [No. 310], reserving the raw breasts and second joints of 
the fowls for further use ; then skim, and pass the broth through a 
napkin ; thicken with three ounces of flour slightly browned in butter, 
and set to boil ; cut the reserved meat in small pieces, put in a sauce- 
pan with two ounces of butter and a finely sliced onion ; fry light 
brown, drain the butter off, moisten with the thickened broth, add a 
bunch of parsley with aromatics, and boil slowly until done ; skim, re- 
move the parsley, pour into a soup-tureen, and serve. 

Salmon-Trout a la Genoise. — Procure a three-pound sea 
salmon-trout, pare off the fins, and cleanse nicely ; slit down the in- 
side, remove the spine, stuff with fish force-meat mixed with fine herbs ; 
put in an oval buttered fish-pan with a gill of marsala or sherry wine, a 
pint of broth, salt, pepper, a sliced onion, and a bunch of parsley with 
aromatics; set to boil, cover with a buttered paper, baste often, and cook 
about forty minutes ; drain the liquid into a saucepan, add more broth, 
and thicken with an ounce and a half of flour kneaded in butter ; boil 
ten minutes ; finish with two tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovies, 
two ounces of butter, and lemon-juice, and press through a napkin ; 
prepare some rice as for risot a la piemontaise [No. i]; fill eight or more 
small buttered timbale-moulds, and keep them warm ; at serving-time 
slide the fish on a dish, mask with part of the sauce, surround with the 
timbales of risot, alternate with eight boiled crayfish, and serve with 
the rest of the sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Ham ^ la Comtoise. — Pare the underside, remove the hip-bone, 
and steep a ham overnight in cold water ; put in a boiler, cover with 
water, and let simmer slowly for two hours and a half ; drain, remove 
the rind, pare nicely, sprinkle with powdered sugar, place on a baking- 
dish with two glasses of sherry wine and two ladlefuls of rich broth ; 
put in the oven, baste often, and glaze of a nice color ; cook two 
pounds of sour-kraut [No. 57], and put it on a dish ; place the ham on 



COOKERY BOOK. 



353 



the centre, smooth the sour-kraut, pour a demi-glaze sauce round the 
ham, add a white-paper ruffle to the hock-bone, and serve. 

Cardoons a 1' Espagnole. — Spanish cardoons are to be had 
occasionally at our large fruit stores ; procure three solid heads ; re- 
move the soft stalks and prickly edges, cut in four-inch lengths, parboil 
for twenty minutes ; cool, peel, and put them in a saucepan, then cover 
with light white broth slightly whitened with flour, adding salt, a pared 
and sliced lemon, chopped beef-suet, and a bunch of parsley with aro- 
matics ; put the lid on, and boil until soft ; drain carefully on a cloth, 
range transversely in a deep dish ; add two ounces of butter to a well- 
reduced espagnole sauce, pour this over, and serve. 

Lamb Chops, Maltaise Sauce. — Cut eight large, fat-covered 
lamb chops ; pare, flatten, season with salt and pepper, range in a sau- 
toir with an ounce of butter and sweet oil, and fry quickly and light 
brown on both sides ; then drain the fat off, and dish up the chops in 
a circle, alternating with heart-shaped slices of bread fried in butter ; 
pour a maltaise sauce in the centre, and serve. 

Maltaise Sauce. — Put in the sautoir chopped shallots, parsley, 
and mushrooms, a small bunch of parsley with thyme, basil, and two 
bay-leaves, and two glasses of sherry wine ; boil slowly to a glaze, 
add half a pint of veloute sauce, two ounces of butter, lemon-juice, and 
the rind of an orange cut in fine shreds ; remove the parsley, and boil 
no longer. 

Apricot Ice-Cream. — Rub through a fine sieve enough ripe apri- 
cots, with ten bruised apricot almonds, to make a pint and a half of 
pulp ; add a pound of powdered sugar, stir a few minutes, and mix 
with a quart of raw cream ; put in a sorbetiere, freeze, transfer to a 
mould, cover hermetically, imbed in salted ice for two hours, and serve 
in the usual way. 

No. 211. 

Monday, July 30. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Julienne, i la Russe. 

Fillets of sole a la Dauphine ; 
Potatoes, English style. 

Chickens k la Turinoise ; 
Broiled egg-plant, Provenjale. 

Entre-cotes of beef, maitre d' hotel sauce ; 
Water-cress salad. 

Souffle au cafe. 
Julienne, ^ la Russe. — Pare, wash, and cut the following vege- 
tables in fine shreds: some carrots, a turnip, two leeks, an onion, a celery- 



354 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

knob, a turnip-rooted cabbage, and two beets ; put in a saucepan with 
two ounces of melted butter and a teaspoonful of sugar ; stir, and fry a 
little, moisten with a quart of water and three quarts of consomme 
[No. 133], and boil an hour ; skim, add two handfuls of finely shred 
mushrooms, and boil a little longer ; prepare some similarly cut red 
beef tongue and ham and a little sliced chervil in a tureen ; pour the 
soup over, and serve. 

Fillets of Sole ^ la Dauphine. — Take the fillets of two medium- 
sized flounders ; pare off the skin, flatten, season with salt and pepper, 
spread on one side some fish force-meat mingled with some chopped 
shallots, parsley, and mushrooms ; fold the fillets in two, range in a 
sautoir with melted butter and lemon-juice, fry a little on each side 
until firm, and press between two tin sheets until cold ; pare again, 
mask them slightly all over with more force-meat, besprinkle with dry 
crumbs, dip in beaten eggs, roll in fresh crumbs, smooth, and shape 
nicely, fry light brown on both sides in clarified butter, stick a small 
claw of lobster in the small end of each fillet ; dish up in a circle, 
pour a lobster sauce in the centre, and serve. 

Chickens a la Turinoise.. — Singe, draw, and truss two fat spring 
chickens, and cook as directed [No. 128] ; chop an onion, and cut two 
ounces of raw ham in small squares, put these in a saucepan with two 
ounces of butter, and fry light brown ; add a pound of rice, fry a little 
longer, moisten with a quart of broth, boil twenty minutes, finish with 
four ounces of very hot clarified butter ; cover with a cloth, let rest 
five minutes to give time to the rice to absorb the butter, pour high up 
in a dish, flatten the top, and smooth nicely ; untruss, drain, and press 
the chickens gently down into the rice, smooth it round, pour a well- 
reduced veloute sauce over, and serve. 

Broiled Egg-Plant ^ la Proven^ale. — Pare off the stem, slit 
in two, and broil four small egg-plants as directed [No. 202] ; heat an 
ounce of sweet oil in a small frying-pan, dropping in a chopped shallot 
and two bruised cloves of garlic ; fry a little, add two ladlefuls of to- 
mato sauce, give a boil ; range the egg-plant, inside uppermost, on a 
dish ; put some pared anchovies cut in shreds on each piece, pour the 
sauce over, besprinkle with chopped parsley and lemon-juice, and serve. 

Entre-Cotes of Beef a la Maitre d' Hotel.— Procure three 
entre-cotes (between-the-ribs steaks) of tender beef ; pare, and flatten 
nicely, season with salt and pepper, baste with sweet oil, and keep 
for some time in order to season the beef well ; fifteen minutes before 
serving broil the beef over a moderate charcoal fire ; range on a 
dish, spread a mellow maitre d' hotel sauce over, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 355 

Souffle au Cafe. — Roast four ounces of mocha coffee in an un- 
tinned copper basin ; pour a quart of boiling milk over it, cover, and 
let infuse an hour while cooling ; put in a saucepan six ounces of flour 
with six ounces of sugar, dilute with the strained-milk infusion, and 
stir on the fire and boil two minutes ; take it off the fire, add six egg- 
yolks gradually, two at a time, and mix well ; beat the six egg-whites 
to a hard froth, mix the whole carefully, pour into a slightly buttered 
deep sweet-meat baking-dish, besprinkle with powdered sugar, and 
bake to a nice color in a moderate oven for about twenty minutes ; 
serve immediately. 



No. 212. 

Tuesday, July 31. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Rice, i la Flamande. 

Fillets of bass a la Manhattan j 
Fried potatoes in Julienne. 

Leg of mutton a la Soissons ; 
Gnocchis 4 la Parisienne. 

Cutlets of squab, Colbert sauce ; 
Sweet pepper and tomato salad. 

Peach fritters a la Viennoise. ' 

Rice, It la Flamande. — Pare and cut some carrots, turnips, a 
white onion, and a celery-knob in small squares ; put them in a sauce- 
pan with a small savoy cabbage and two leeks cut small ; add two 
ounces of butter and a teaspoonful of sugar, and stir on the fire until 
the moisture is mostly evaporated ; wet with a pint of white broth, 
cover, and cook slowly until reduced to a glaze ; thicken three quarts of 
consomme with three ounces of flour slightly browned in butter, add a 
garnished bunch of parsley and thin slices of raw ham, boil half an 
hour, skim well, and press through a napkin ; return to a saucepan, 
add the prepared vegetables, some green peas, string-beans cut in short 
pieces, and a pint of boiled rice ; boil a minute longer, pour into a 
soup-tureen, and serve. 

Fillets of Bass ^ la Manhattan. — Take the fillets of a four- 
pound striped bass, pare off the skin and bones, chop very fine with 
four ounces of butter ; season with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg ; 
moisten with a cup of cream, and knead well ; divide in eight parts, 
roll on a floured table, and flatten the size and shape of a small fillet ; 
dip in beaten eggs, roll in fresh crumbs, smooth nicely, and fry slowly 
and light brown on both sides in clarified butter ; drain on a cloth, 



356 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

dish up in a circle, pour a well-buttered tomato sauce in the centre, 
and serve. 

Leg of Mutton el la Soissons. — Choose a fat, plump, and tender 
leg of mutton ; pare the knuckle and remove the hip-bone ; truss up, 
put in an oval stewpan with a piece of butter and fry brown all round ; 
drain the butter, add sliced carrots and onions, and a bunch of parsley 
with aromatics ; wet with a gill of sherry wine, a quart of broth, and a 
half pint of tomato sauce ; cover and cook slowly for about three 
hours ; strain and free the gravy from its fat, and reduce to the con- 
sistency of a demi-glaze sauce ; dish up the mutton, pour part of the 
sauce over, add a paper ruffle to the bone, serve with a dish of fresh- 
bean puree and the rest of the sauce in a bowl. 

Puree of Fresh Beans. — Boil three pints of young and fresh- 
shelled beans in salted water ; drain, pound to a puree, and rub forci- 
bly through a sieve ; dilute with rich gravy, add salt, pepper, and four 
ounces of butter ; mix well. 

Gnocchis el la Parisienne. — Mix in equal parts enough chicken 
force-meat and gnocchis-paste [No. 199] ; with the aid of two table- 
spoons drop the whole, quenelle-like, in boiling water, let simmer a few 
minutes, drain, and arrange by layers in a deep dish with grated par- 
mesan cheese, melted butter, and demi-glaze sauce, finishing with 
cheese ; brown slightly in the oven, and serve very hot. 

Cutlets of Squab, Colbert Sauce. — Singe, draw, and cut four 
full-grown squab in halves ; bone entirely except the pinions and 
stumps ; season with salt and pepper, and fry slightly ; press until cold 
between two tin sheets, mask with a thin layer of force-meat, sprinkle 
with dry crumbs, dip in eggs beaten with melted butter, roll in fresh 
crumbs, smooth nicely, and broil over a slow fire ; dish in a circle, pour 
a Colbert sauce in the centre, and serve. 

Peach-Fritters a la Viennoise. — Scald a dozen peaches in 
syrup, divide in two, and drain on a sieve. Have a paste made thus : 
put in a vessel four ounces of flour and half an ounce of concentrated 
yeast, dilute with warm milk, make a light dough and let rise in a warm 
closet ; then add twelve ounces more of flour, three ounces of butter, a 
little salt and sugar, and more milk ; knead well while gradually adding 
three eggs, and put it in a warm place to rise again ; have buttered 
strips of paper, range separate tablespoonfuls of paste on them ; place 
a half-peach on each, cover with more paste, let rest a little longer, 
immerse the papers in plenty of clear, hot fat, take them out, and cook 
the fritters a nice color ; drain on a cloth, besprinkle with powdered 
sugar, range on a baking-sheet, and glaze carefully in a very hot oven ; 
serve on a folded napkin. 



COOKERY BOOK, 357 

No. 213. 

Wednesday, August i. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Consomme a la d' Orsay. 

Lobster, Portland style ; 
Rice a la Bayonnaise. 

Veal chops, German style ; 
Carrots a la maitre d' hotel. 



Porterhouse steaks, shallot sauce ; 
Chiccory salad, a la Gasconne. 

Bavarois aux peches. 

Consomme ^ la d' Orsay. — With a vegetable scoop or a small 
tin tube, prepare some carrots and turnips, and cook as for printanier 
soup ; peel some very small white onions and cook them separately to 
a glaze with a little broth and sugar ; thicken three quarts of con- 
somme [No. 133] with three ounces of flour cooked in butter, boil half 
an hour, skim, press through a napkin, and mix with the vegetables ; 
drop one by one a dozen very fresh egg-yolks in salted boiling 
water and poach them soft ; pour the soup into a soup-tureen, 
add the egg-yolks, and serve. 

Lobster, Portland Style. — Procure three medium-sized live 
female lobsters ; take off the tails and big claws, cut each tail (raw) 
crosswise in five or six pieces and crack the claws ; put these on a 
plate ; boil the bodies, take out the creamy substance and rub 
through a sieve with four egg-yolks and half a pint of veloute sauce ; 
chop four shallots and bruise a clove of garlic, put in a saucepan 
with two ounces of butter, and fry a little without browning ; add 
the lobster, a bunch of parsley, and a pinch of red pepper ; fry a 
little longer, occasionally tossing the lobster ; wet with a pint of white 
wine and white broth in equal parts, cover, and boil fifteen minutes ; 
remove the parsley, dish up the lobster with a skimmer ; reduce the 
liquid, add two ladlefuls of veloute sauce and the prepared egg-yolks, 
stir nearly to a boil, finish with chopped parsley and lemon-juice ; 
pour the sauce over the lobster, and serve. 

Rice a la Bayonnaise. — Cook a pound of rice as directed [No. 
157], and serve along with the lobster. 

Veal Chops, German Style. — Pare eight veal chops ; flatten, 
season with salt and pepper, flour a little, dip in beaten eggs, roll in 
fresh bread-crumbs, smooth nicely, and fry light brown and well in 
clarified butter ; dish up in a circle, fill the centre with a potato 
puree, pour a demi-glaze sauce over the chops, add small paper 
ruffles to the bones, and serve. 



358 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Carrots ^ la Maitre d' Hotel. — Pare enough small carrots, cut 
in quarters, and parboil five minutes ; drain, put in a saucepan with 
salt, a little sugar, an ounce of butter and white broth enough to 
cover ; boil and cook to a glaze, finish with two tablespoonfuls of 
veloute sauce, chopped parsley, and four ounces of butter in small 
bits ; toss carefully, pour into a dish, surround with small triangular 
slices of bread fried in clarified butter, and serve. 

Porterhouse Steaks, Shallot Sauce. — Take two good-sized 
porterhouse steaks cut from the middle of the loin (the nearer the 
flat bone the better they are) ; pare, flatten heavily, season with salt 
and pepper, put on a dish and let them season until dinner-time ; 
broil rather rare over a clear charcoal fire, dish up, pour a well but- 
tered shallot sauce over, and serve. 

Bavarois aux Peches. — Rub enough ripe peaches through a fine 
sieve to obtain a pint of pulp ; put them in a vessel with ten ounces 
of powdered sugar and a few drops each of essence of almonds and 
of vanilla ; dissolve an ounce and a half of clarified gelatine with a 
glass of water, mix with the pulp, and cool partially ;. then mix the 
whole carefully with sufficient well-whipt cream [No. 77] to fill a three- 
pint cylindrical sweet-jelly mould ; imbed in broken ice, cover with an 
inverted plate, put more ice over, and let set thoroughly ; at serving- 
time immerse in tepid water, wipe the mould quickly, turn on a folded 
napkin, and serve immediately. 



No. 214. 

Thursday, August 2.— Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Chicken, a la Messinoise. 

Fillets of weak-fish a la Havraise ; 
Potatoes a la Hollandaise. 

Boiled leg of lamb with small onions ; 
Nouilles a la Badoise. 



Cutlets of Chicken i la Montpensier ; 
Lettuce and chive salad. 

Cups of blanc manger i la vanilla. 

Chicken Soup 2t la Messinoise.— Prepare three quarts of 
chicken-broth [No. 310] ; thicken with four ounces of rice-flour slightly 
browned in butter, and boil half an hour ; pick off the meat of a chicken 
boiled in the soup-pot, chop and pound fine with two ounces of fresh 
blanched almonds ; add four egg-yolks, three ounces of butter, white 
pepper, and nutmeg ; dilute some chicken force-meat with four table- 



COOKERY BOOK. 359 

spoonfuls of very consistent tomato puree ; with two teaspoons make 
small quenelles, drop and poach them in boiling water ; put the chicken- 
puree with the boiling soup, stir and mingle well without boiling, strain 
over a soup-tureen, add the quenelles, and serve. 

Fillets of Weak-Fish ^ la Hdvraise. — Take the fillets of four 
weak-fish ; pare off the skin and bones, double the fillets, flatten 
slightly, season with salt and pepper, and range in a sautoir with melted 
butter ; fry a little until firm on both sides, drain and press lightly 
between two tin sheets ; put a pint of veloute sauce and a glass of 
white wine in the sautoir, boil five minutes ; finish with a liaison of 
three egg-yolks, four ounces of butter, and lemon-juice ; stir on the 
fire without boiling, and press through a napkin ; pare and dish" up the 
fillets in a circle, mix heads of mushrooms and mussels with part of 
the sauce, pour in the centre, and serve the rest of the sauce in a sauce- 
bowl. 

Boiled Leg of Lamb with Small Onions. — Pare a leg of lamb, 
shorten the handle, remove the hip-bone, and truss firmly ; put in salted 
boiling water with a bunch of parsley and aromatics and boil an hour ; 
peel and parboil a pint of small white onions, drain ; put in a saucepan 
with salt, a little sugar, butter, and white broth ; set on the fire and 
cook gently to a glaze ; thicken some lamb-broth with two ounces of 
flour cooked in butter ; boil ten minutes, add a liaison of three egg- 
yolks, two ounces of butter, and a little vinegar, and press through a 
napkin ; dish up the lamb ; mix the onions with the sauce and pour 
over the meat ; add a paper rufile to the bone, and serve. 

Nouilles a la Badoise. — Prepare and cook a pound of nouilles 
[No. 302] ; drain without cooling ; put in a saucepan with four ounces 
of butter in small bits, four ounces of grated parmesan cheese, pepper, 
nutmeg, and half a pint of allemande sauce ; mix carefully with a 
wooden spoon and pour into a deep dish ; heat four ounces of butter, 
add two handfuls of fresh bread-crumbs, fry light brown, and pour the 
whole over the nouilles. 

Cutlets of Chicken a la Montpensier. — Take and pare the fillets 
of three large tender fowls ; chop very fine with half the quantity of 
butter ; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and add half a cup of 
thick cream ; mix well, divide in eight parts on a floured table, 
flatten and give them the shape and size of a large chop ; dip in beaten 
eggs, roll in fine fresh bread-crumbs, smooth nicely, and fry light 
brown on both sides in clarified butter, dish up in a circle, and pour a 
tomato-sauce in the centre. 

Cups of Blanc Manger ^ la Vanille. — Cut a vanilla-bean in 



36o FRANCO-AMERICAN 

short pieces ; put it with a quart of boiling cream, cover and let infuse 
an hour ; dissolve an ounce of clarified gelatine in a pint of water 
with ten ounces of sugar, mix with the cream and press through a nap- 
kin ; fill eight or more china custard cups, cool on ice, then arrange 
them on a folded napkin, and serve. 



No. 215. 

Friday August 3. — Bill of fare for eight persons 

Soup : Bisque of clams. 

Broiled flounders a la Chivry ; 
Browned potatoes a la menagere. 

Stuffed sheep-trotters a la Rouennaise ; 
Paupiettes of cabbage a la Milanaise. 

Chicken saute a la printaniere ; 
Lettuce salad a la Parisienne. 



Muskmelon. 

Bisque of Clams. — Put fifty medium-sized hard clams in a sauce- 
pan with a quart of white broth, white and a pinch of red pepper, 
a bunch of parsley with aromatics, and two blades of mace ; boil 
half an hour, drain in a colander, save the broth, remove the pars- 
ley and mace, then chop and pound the clams to a puree ; melt 
three ounces of butter with a chopped onion, fry till soft, put in 
four ounces of flour, dilute with the reserved broth and boiled milk, 
add the clams, stir on the fire, and boil ten minutes ; rub through a 
very fine sieve, give another boil, add more milk if required ; finish 
with four ounces of table butter, pour into a soup-tureen, and serve 
with small squares of bread fried in clarified butter. 

Broiled Flounders a la Chivry. — Take two good-sized floun- 
ders ; pare off the heads, tails, and thin parts inside the fins, wash 
well and wipe dry ; cut each one crosswise in four or more pieces, 
make slight incisions in the thick side and put in a dish with salt, 
pepper, a sliced onion, parsley, sweet oil and lemon-juice ; turn once 
or twice, so as to season thoroughly, and let marinate an hour ; roll 
in fresh crumbs, put in an oiled double gridiron and broil slowly, 
basting occasionally with sweet oil ; range high up in a dish, pour 
a marinade sauce round, surround with quartered lemons, and serve. 

Stuffed Sheep-Trotters a la Rouennaise. — Procure a dozen 
of well scalded sheep-trotters ; singe, tie, and boil as directed [No. 
199] ; let cool, remove the woolly tuft and shank bone, stuff both 
ends with a pound and a half of sausage meat kneaded with a handful 
of fresh crumbs and two eggs ; range in a saucepan over sliced carrots 



COOKERY BOOK, 361 

and onions, salt, and a bunch of parsley ; cover with light broth and 
an inverted plate, and boil slowly for an hour longer ; let cool, drain, 
strew with dry crumbs, dip in beaten eggs, roll in fresh bread-crumbs, 
put in a frying-basket and fry in plenty of very hot fat ; drain on a 
cloth, range on a folded napkin, put fried parsley on top, and serve 
with a piquante sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Paupiettes of Cabbage a la Milanaise. — Take the white 
leaves of a large cabbage, parboil five minutes ; cool in water, drain 
carefully on a cloth, and remove the large ribs ; boil half a pound of 
rice in salted water for ten minutes, cool, drain thoroughly, add chopped 
shallots and parsley, and mix the rice with an equal quantity of sausage- 
meat ; cut two or three thicknesses of leaves in three-inch widths, 
spread on the table, put tablespoonfuls of rice and meat on them, roll 
carefully, season with salt and pepper, pile in rows in a saucepan of 
adequate size ; wet to cover with broth, place an inverted plate on top 
so as to keep the paupiettes in shape, stew gently for an hour, reducing 
the liquid to one fourth ; drain on a sieve, pare, and dish up carefully in 
a pyramidal form ; strain and reduce the liquid with two ladlefuls of 
espagnole sauce, add two ounces of butter, pour over the paupiettes, and 
serve. 

Chicken Saute ^ la Printani^re. — Prepare and fry two chickens 
as directed [No. 179] ; drain, add two glasses of white wine and a pint 
of espagnole sauce ; finish with a pint of cooked green peas and string- 
beans cut in short pieces ; dish up, pour the sauce over, surround with 
heart-shaped slices of bread fried in butter, and serve. 

Muskmelon, — Although in Europe the melon is generally eaten 
with salt and pepper after the soup, in this country on account of its 
fragrance and sweetness it is preferred between the cheese and dessert ; 
wash and bury the melons in broken ice until serving-time ; divide in 
thick cuts, remove the seeds, reconstruct the melons, and serve sur- 
rounded with ice on a folded napkin. 



No. 216. 

Saturday, August 4. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Cabbage, a la Chambery. 

Fillets of hlue-fisli a la Duxelles ; 
Potato cakes. 

Grenadins of veal a la fermiere ; 
Semolina croquettes. 

Roast leg of mutton a la Bignon ; 
Chiccory salad with tarragon. 

Omelet soufflee au marasquin. 



362 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Cabbage, a la Chambery. — Cut a savoy cabbage in small pieces ; 
put in a saucepan with clarified fat from the soup-pot, a bunch of pars- 
ley with aromatics, and white pepper ; stir and fry until soft, add half 
a pound of salt pork, wet with two quarts of beef-broth and two quarts 
of water, and boil an hour ; chop and pound fine four ounces of 
lean beef with the same quantity of beef-suet ; add salt, pepper, and 
two egg-yolks ; mix well ; make small acorn-sized balls, fry in beef- 
fat, drain, and put them in a tureen ; skim the soup, remove the lard 
and parsley, pour over the meat-balls, and serve. 

Fillets of Blue-Fish a la Duxelles. — Take the fillets of a four- 
pound blue-fish ; pare off the bones and skin, divide in eight or more 
pieces, season with salt and pepper, put in a sautoir with melted butter 
and lemon-juice ; put on the fire until firm on both sides and press 
lightly between two tin sheets until cold ; mask slightly all over with a 
well-reduced duxelles sauce, besprinkle with dry crumbs, dip in beaten 
eggs, roll in fresh crumbs, smooth nicely, and fry light brown in plenty 
of very hot fat ; drain, dish up in a row, pour a duxelles sauce round 
the fish, and serve. 

Grenadins of Veal a la Fermi^re. — Cut eight small fillets of 
veal, flatten, pare ; fasten small shreds of fat pork on one side, and cook 
as directed [No. 135] ; cook separately a cauliflower in salted water, 
four bruised lettuce cut in halves, small quartered carrots in white 
broth, and small round potatoes in clarified butter ; dish up the veal 
grenadins in a row, range the vegetables symmetrically in groups on 
each side, pour the reduced demi-glaze over the meat, and serve. 

Croquettes of Semolina. — Boil a quart of white broth with salt 
and an ounce of butter ; drop gently about twelve ounces of semolina, 
stirring all the time ; stir five minutes longer, add four egg-yolks, and 
turn into a small buttered dish-pan to cool ; divide in about a dozen 
oblong pieces, sprinkle with dry crumbs, dip in beaten eggs, and roll 
in fresh crumbs ; fry to a nice color, and serve on a folded napkin. 

Roast Leg of Mutton a la Bignon. — Procure a short, fat, and 
tender leg of mutton ; pare and insert a small clove of garlic in the 
fleshy part of the knuckle and remove the hip-bone ; truss firmly and 
roast rather rare for about an hour, time varying according to size ; 
dish up the mutton, surround with a dozen or more potatoes a la Bign- 
on ; skim the fat, strain, and reduce the drippings with two ladlefuls 
of demi-glaze sauce ; pour this over the mutton, add a paper ruflle to 
the bone, and serve. 

A clove of garlic in the knuckle gives the whole leg an agreeable 
savor that cannot fail to please even the persons who dislike its smell. 



COOKERY BOOK. 363 

Potatoes ^ la Bignon. — Boil a dozen large, round potatoes ; let 
cool and peel them ; then with a vegetable-scoop take part of the inside 
out ; fill with a well-seasoned mutton sausage-meat, close the opening 
with a piece of potato, and roast the potatoes to a nice color in clari- 
fied butter. 

Omelet Soufflee with Maraschino. — Pound fine six almond- 
macaroons ; put them in a vessel with four egg-yolks and four ounces 
of powdered sugar ; stir with a wooden spoon until very smooth, add 
a liqueur-glassful of maraschino and a few drops of kirschwasser, and 
stir a little longer ; beat eight egg-whites to a hard froth, mix the whole 
carefully, turn on a slightly buttered china or silver dish, cook in a 
moderate oven, besprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve immediately. 



No. 217. 

Sunday, August 5. — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup : Consomme a la Talma. 

Sheep's-head, Bahama sauce ; 
Timbale of potatoes. 

Epigrammes of chicken, Macedoine ; 
Baked macaroni. 



Roast fillet of beef a la Gouffe ; 
Lettuce salad. 



Peach ice-cream. 

Consomme ^ la Talma. — Prepare three quarts of consomm^ 
[No. 133] ; blanch four ounces of almonds and four bitter ones, pound 
fine, dilute with a pint of milk, and strain by pressure through a strong 
napkin ; put four eggs and ten egg-yolks in a basin, beat well, dilute 
with the almond-milk, strain, put in a buttered, plain timbale-mould ; 
put the mould in boiling water to half its height, cover, and let sim- 
mer slowly until the preparation is thoroughly firm ; let cool, turn on a 
wet cloth, cut in half-inch squares, put in a soup-tureen with a pint of 
rice boiled in broth, pour the boiling consomme over, and serve. 

Sheep's-Head, Bahama Sauce. — Take a large sheep's-head, 
cut the fins, scrape off the large blood-vessel along the spine, wash and 
make a deep incision from head to tail on each side ; butter, and be- 
strew a fish-pan with a chopped bermuda onion, parsley, four peeled 
tomatoes, and four small bahama chillies, also chopped fine ; put the 
fish over ; add salt, half a pint of catawba wine, a pint of white broth, 
and bits of butter on top ; cover with a buttered paper, set to boil, and 
cook slowly for fifty minutes, sprinkling occasionally with the liquid ; 



364 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

slide the fish on a dish ; put more broth in the pan, turn the whole into 
a saucepan, thicken with an ounce and a half of flour cooked in butter, 
boil ten minutes ; finish with four ounces of butter, chopped parsley, 
and lemon-juice ; dish up the fish, range a row of plain baked peeled 
tomatoes on top, pour the sauce over all, and serve. 

Epigrammes of Chicken a la Macedoine. — Take the fillets of 
three spring chickens, letting the minion fillets adhere ; season with 
salt and pepper, put in a sautoir with melted butter, and fry a little on 
both sides until firm ; place them between two tin sheets and press 
lightly until cold ; then baste with a thick allemande sauce, cool again, 
bread them double by dipping twice in beaten eggs and rolling in fresh 
crumbs, smooth nicely, and put on a plate ; take the six legs with as 
much skin as possible, cut the stumps, bone the second joints, season 
with salt and pepper, fill with a little veal sausage-meat, sew up and 
put them in a sautoir with sliced vegetables and white broth ; cover 
and cook slowly for forty minutes ; drain and press also between two tin 
sheets with a weight on top until cold ; then pare nicely, and heat the 
legs in a sautoir with a demi-glaze sauce ; fry the fillets in clarified 
butter, insert short chicken bones in the small ends, dish up the fillets 
and legs alternately in a circle, fill the centre with a garnishing a la 
macedoine [No. 352], pour a demi-glaze sauce round, add small white- 
paper rufiles to the fillets and legs, and serve. 

Roast Fillet of Beef a la Gouffe. — Procure a thick, fat-streaked 
fillet of beef ; pare off the sinews and superfluous fat, and fasten rows of 
small shreds of fat pork on the pared side ; put a gill of madeira wine 
and fat broth in the dripping-pan and the fillet on the spit; roast rather 
rare before a brisk fire, being careful to baste often with the drippings ; 
toast a dozen thin slices of bread, cut thin and parboil half a pound of 
beef-marrow, spread it on the toast, baste with beef-extract, and cook 
three minutes in a brisk oven ; skim, strain, and reduce the drippings 
with a half pint of espagnole sauce ; dish up the fillet, surround with 
the marrow toast, pour the sauce over the meat, and serve. 

Peach Ice-Cream. — Rub enough peaches through a sieve to ob- 
tain a pint of pulp ; add twelve ounces of powdered sugar and a few 
drops each of almond and vanilla extract ; mix well with a quart of 
raw cream, then proceed and serve as directed [No, 210]. 



COOKERY BOOK. 365 



No. 218. 

Monday, August 6, — Bill of fare for eight persons 

Soup : Puree of turnips with sago. 

Bonito a la Provencale ; 
Baked potatoes a la Braban9onne. 

Ducks a la Nivemaise ; 
Noques a la Frascati, 

Croquettes of fillet of beef ; 
Romaine salad with chives. 



Surprise cakes a la Regente. 

Puree of Turnips with Sago. — Pare four pounds of white 
turnips, slice fine ; put them in a saucepan with broth to cover, two 
ounces of butter, white pepper, and a teaspoonful of sugar ; boil, and 
cook an hour ; rub through a fine sieve, return to a saucepan with suf- 
ficient beef-broth, and boil again ; skim the fat, add six ounces of sago, 
season to taste, and boil thirty minutes longer ; skim again, pour into 
a soup-tureen, and serve. 

Bonito a la Provencale. — Choose a fresh bonito weighing about 
five pounds, or the middle cut of a larger one ; put in a fish-pan with 
a pint of veloute sauce, half a pint of white wine, half a pint of white 
broth, a chopped onion, and a bunch of parsley with aromatics ; set to 
boil, and let simmer slowly, basting occasionally until done ; drain the 
fish, strain, and reduce the sauce to the desired consistency, add a 
liaison of four egg-yolks and four ounces of butter ; press through a 
napkin, finish with an ounce of anchovy-butter, chopped parsley, and 
two tablespoonfuls of capers ; slide the fish on a dish, put the sauce 
over, and serve. 

Ducks a la Nivemaise. — Truss and cook two fat spring ducks 
as directed [No. 200] ; drain and untruss the ducks ; strain and free 
the gravy from its fat, reduce to a demi-glaze sauce, put with the 
ducks and keep them warm ; with a small vegetable tin-tube cut inch- 
lengths pencil-sized rounds in the red part of carrots ; parboil three 
minutes, drain, and cook to a glaze in a saucepan with broth, an 
ounce of butter, and a lump of sugar ; dish up the ducks ; put the car- 
rots in the sauce, give a boil, skim, pour over the ducks, and serve. 

Noques a la Frascati. — Prepare and boil some noques as di- 
rected [No. 192] ; cut mushrooms, red beef-tongue, and white chicken- 
meat in fine shreds, and heat in a saucepan with well-reduced demi- 
glaze sauce ; range the noques by layers in a deep vegetable-dish, 
alternating with a layer of melted butter, grated cheese, and the demi- 
glaze preparation, finishing with cheese and melted butter ; bake light 
brown, and serve very hot. 



366 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Croquettes of Fillet of Beef (supposing there is fillet left over 
from the previous dinner, No. 217). — Cut fine cold roasted fillet of 
beef and a pint of mushrooms in very small squares ; put two chopped 
onions in a saucepan with two ounces of butter, stir, and fry 
slowly ; add half a pint of well-reduced espagnole sauce, stir, and re- 
duce a little longer ; thicken with four egg-yolks ; mix with this the 
beef, mushrooms, and chopped parsley, and pour into a dish to cool ; 
turn upon a table strewn with bread-crumbs, divide in flat oblongs, dip 
in beaten eggs, roll in fresh crumbs, smooth nicely, and fry in clear, 
very hot fat ; drain on a cloth, dish up on a folded napkin with fried 
parsley, and serve with a tomato sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Surprise Cakes a la Regente. — Spread heart-shaped thin flats 
of feuilletage paste on a floured table ; put teaspoonfuls of orange 
marmalade on one side, wet the edge, and fold the other side over, 
then with the thumb and forefinger of the right hand twist the edge 
(as you Avould for a chop in paper), turn the cakes over on a baking- 
sheet and bake them ; cut, and cook short pieces of almond or other 
paste to imitate the bones ; pare, and baste the cakes with syrup, and 
roll them in fine macaroon-crumbs ; imitate the brown iron marks with 
a hot skewer, and insert the bone-like piece of paste in the small end ; 
spread a layer of marmalade in a dish, range the cakes in a circle, pour 
melted currant jelly in the centre to imitate gravy, and serve cold. 
When well prepared, this dish imitates lamb chops breaded, with gravy. 



No. SI 9. 

Tuesday, August 7. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Vermicelli, with milk. 

Fritot of sole a la Bretonne ; 
Potatoes a la Lyonnaise. 

Rump of beef a la Badoise { 
Rice a 1' Egyptienne. 

Lamb chops a la Cussy ; 
Beet and lettuce salad. 

Bavarois au the. 

Vermicelli, with Milk. — Boil three quarts of milk, and stir into 
it eight ounces of large white vermicelli and two ounces of butter ; 
boil twenty minutes, add a strained liaison of four egg-yolks, two 
ounces of butter, a little salt and sugar ; mix well without boiling, 
pour into a soup-tureen, and serve. 

Fritot of Sole ^ la Bretonne. — Take the fillets of four small 



COOKERY BOOK. 367 

flounders ; pare off the skin, flatten, season with salt and pepper, 
baste on one side with fish force-meat mixed with half its quantity 
of thick onion puree and chopped shallots and parsley ; roll each 
fillet on itself, and put them by pairs on short silver skewers ; put 
them in a sautoir with melted butter, fry slightly until stiffened all 
around ; let cool, mask each fillet with more prepared force-meat, 
besprinkle with dry crumbs, dip in beaten eggs, roll in fresh crumbs, 
smooth nicely, and fry light brown in plenty of very hot fat ; drain 
on a cloth, let the skewers remain, dish up in pyramidal form, pour 
a tomato sauce round the base, and serve. 

Rump of Beef a la Badoise. — Take a rump piece of fat beef, 
weighing about eight pounds ; with a larding-needle insert half-inch 
square, long strips of fat pork and cook as directed [No. 345] ; drain 
and pare the beef, skim all the fat, strain and reduce the gravy to a 
demi-glaze sauce, and keep hot with the beef ; pare eight or more 
turnip-rooted cabbages cut in quarters, trim a little, put in a sauce- 
pan, wet with a pint of white broth, and cook to a glaze ; dish up 
the beef, range the rooted cabbages round it, pour the sauce over all, 
and serve. 

Rice ^ r Egyptienne. — Put a pound of large italian rice in a 
saucepan, with a gallon of slightly salted water and the juice of two 
lemons ; boil quickly for fifteen minutes, and drain thoroughly on a 
sieve ; return boiling hot to a buttered saucepan, sprinkle twelve 
ounces of clarified but not browned butter over the rice ; put a folded 
wet towel over, cover the saucepan hermetically, and put it in a 
moderate oven for twenty minutes ; uncover, remove the towel and 
upper crust, and drop the rice with the aid of a fork in a pyramidal 
form on a dish, spread a napkin over, and serve immediately. 

Lamb Chops a la Cussy. — Pare, flatten, and trim nicely eight 
large fat lamb chops ; season with salt and pepper, range in a sautoir 
with clarified butter, and fry on a brisk fire until light brown on both 
sides ; drain the butter off, wet with a gill of white broth and a 
glass of sherry wine ; reduce to a glaze, drain, and dish up the chops 
in a circle alternately with heart-shaped slices of bread fried in butter ; 
put in the sautoir half a pint of veloute sauce, red beef-tongue, and 
mushrooms cut in small shreds, two ounces of butter in small bits, and 
lemon-juice ; mix well without boiling, pour in the centre of the dish, 
add small paper ruffles to the bones, and serve. 

Bavarois au The. — Make a strong infusion of black and green 
tea, yielding two gills of liquid ; mix eight egg-yolks with ten ounces 
of powdered sugar, dilute with the tea infusion and three gills of fresh 



368 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

cream ; stir on the fire with a wooden spoon until the cream thickens, 
and pass through a fine strainer ; dissolve on the fire an ounce and a 
half of gelatine in a gill of water, and mix with the tea preparation ; 
stir on, ice until sufficiently stiff, and mix with well-whipt cream [No. 
77] ; fill a three-pint entremet-mould, imbed in broken ice, and serve 
in the ordinary way. 



No. 220. 

Wednesday, August 8. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Mutton-broth a la Viennoise. 

Turban of lobster a la Suedoise ; 
Potatoes a la HoUandaise. 



Ribs of beef with French beans ; 
Boiled sweet potatoes. 

Cutlets of chicken, sauce supreme ; 
Tomato and cucumber salad. 



Maraschino jelly with peaches. 

Mutton-Broth a la Viennoise. — Take about six pounds of very 
fresh scrag-ends of mutton neck cut in pieces, wash, and put in a stew- 
pan with six quarts of cold water ; boil slowly, and scum well ; add 
pepper-corns, salt, two turnips, an onion with three cloves in it, and a 
bunch of parsley with aromatics ; cover, and let simmer three hours ; 
then skim the fat, pass the broth through a wet napkin, return to a 
stewpan, and boil again ; by this time the broth ought to be reduced 
to about three quarts ; peel and quarter the white part of four leeks 
cut in inch-lengths, fry until soft with two ounces of butter ; put this 
in the broth, boil a little longer, and skim again ; chop fine four ounces 
of lean mutton with two ounces of beef-marrow or suet ; add salt, pep- 
per, two egg-yolks, and chopped parsley ; mix well, and make small 
nutmeg-sized balls, fry in butter, drain on a cloth, put in a soup-tureen 
with a pint of well-done and drained barley ; pour the broth over, and 
serve. 

Turban of Lobster a la Suedoise. — Take the meat from the 
tails and claws of two large, cooked female lobsters ; cut in collops, and 
put on a plate with the parings ; chop the coral fine, and pound the 
eggs to a paste ; butter a large border-mould, and besprinkle with 
chopped coral ; mix the eggs with force-meat, and spread a thin layer 
in the mould ; add the collops, then the parings, with chopped shallots, 
parsley, and mushrooms to fill the cavities ; cover with the rest of the 
force-meat, smooth nicely, put in a sautoir with boiling water to half its 
height, cover, and cook slowly; invert on a dish, let rest a while, remove 



COOKERY BOOK. 369 

the mould, pour an aurora sauce [No. 319] in the centre, and serve. 

Ribs of Beef with French Beans. — Take two ribs of fleshy 
and not too fat beef, weighing about three pounds each ; put in a deep 
sautoir with butter ; fry brown on both sides ; add two chopped 
onions, and fry a little longer ; wet with a pint of broth and a pint 
of water, half a pint of espagnole and tomato sauce in equal parts, and 
two glasses of sherry wine ; add a bunch of parsley ; cover, and let 
simmer two hours ; drain, and dish up the beef, remove the parsley, 
skim the fat, and strain the sauce ; add a quart of plain boiled string- 
beans, cut in short pieces, give a boil, pour round the beef, and serve. 

Boiled Sweet Potatoes. — Put them in a saucepan with boiling 
water ; boil until soft ; drain, peel, and serve in the folds of a large 
napkin. 

Cutlets of Chicken, Sauce Supreme. — Cut enough cooked 
chicken in small squares, with red beef-tongue, chicken-livers, and 
mushrooms ; mix with a ladleful of veloute sauce and raw chicken 
force-meat, making a compact body ; divide and flatten in eight or 
more chop-shaped pieces, sprinkle with dry crumbs, dip in beaten eggs, 
roll in fresh crumbs, smooth nicely, and fry light brown ; dish up in a 
circle, pour a supreme sauce [No. 128] in the centre, and serve. 

Maraschino Jelly with Peaches. — Quarter about ten large 
firm peaches ; blanch them in boiling syrup, peel, and drain on a sieve; 
clarify a quart of pretty consistent jelly [No. 2], omitting the wine ; 
cool partially, and add a gill of maraschino liqueur ; imbed a jelly- 
mould in ice, put half an inch thick of jelly on the bottom, and let 
set ; put upon this a layer of peaches, cover with half an inch of jelly, 
let set again, and proceed in that way until the mould is filled to the 
edge, with a little jelly over the last layer of peaches ; invert a plate 
over the mould, cover with more broken ice, cool thoroughly, and serve 
in the ordinary way. 

No. 221. 

Thursday, August 9. — Bill of fare for eight persons ; 
Soup : Cream of rice k la Medicis. 

Brook-trout k la Conde ; 
Potatoes a la duchesse. 

Shoulders of lamb a la paysanne , 
Spanish cardoons, marrow sauce. 

Chicken saute a 1' ecarlate ; 
Romaine and green onion salad. 

Green-gage tart with rice. 



370 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Cream of Rice a la Medicis. — Wash a pound of rice ; put it in 
a saucepan with two quarts of chicken-broth, a little sugar, white pepper, 
and grated nutmeg ; cook thoroughly for about fifty minutes, rub 
through a fine sieve, and return to a saucepan ; cook separately an- 
other half pound of rice with a pint of broth and two ounces of butter 
for twenty minutes ; add two egg-yolks, stir, and cook a little longer ; 
turn this on a plate, cool partially, make small olive-sized balls, dip in 
beaten eggs, roll in yellow meal or rice flour, fry light brown in clari- 
fied butter, and drain on a cloth ; put in boiling milk, dilute, and stir 
the puree to a boil ; add two handfuls of freshly grated parmesan 
cheese, two ounces of butter, and a liaison of four egg-yolks with a cup 
of cream ; mix well on the fire by shaking the soup with a dressing- 
spoon without allowing to boil ; pour into a soup-tureen, and serve 
with the small rice balls separately on a plate. 

Brook-Trout a la Conde. — Take eight small trout of equal size ; 
cut the fins, heads, and tails off ; remove the spine, flatten slightly, 
season with salt and pepper, and stuff them with fish force-meat mixed 
with chopped parsley, fine herbs, and mushrooms ; dip in melted 
butter, and roll separately in strips of paper ; range them on a baking- 
dish, baste occasionally with melted butter, and cook in a moderate 
oven for half an hour ; this done, remove the paper, dish up the fish 
in a circle ; surround with eight cooked crayfish, pour a genevoise 
sauce in the centre, and serve. 

Shoulders of Lamb ^ la Paysanne. — Remove the blade and 
round bone of two shoulders of lamb ; shorten the handle, season with 
salt and pepper, roll, sew up, and truss nicely ; put in a deep sautoir with 
melted butter, fry brown all round, drain the butter off, wet with a glass 
of sherry wine, half a pint of water, and a pint of espagnole sauce ; put 
in a bunch of parsley with aromatics, cover, and boil half an hour ; 
add some carrots and turnips cut in half-inch rounds, parsley-leaves, a 
finely sliced onion, and two peeled tomatoes cut in pieces ; stew slowly 
for forty minutes longer ; drain, untruss, and dish up the lamb ; re- 
move the bunch of parsley and pour the sauce over and the vegetables 
round the lamb ; add paper ruffles to the bones, and serve. 

Spanish Cardoons with Marrow. — Prepare and cook three 
heads of cardoons [No. 210] ; range in a deep dish and pour a slightly 
buttered espagnole sauce over ; toast eight thin oblong slices of bread, 
mask them with slices of hardly blanched beef-marrow, baste with 
melted beef-extract, and cook two minutes in a pretty hot oven ; range 
over the cardoons, and serve. 

Chicken Saute a 1' Ecarlate.— Divide two large spring chickens 



COOKERY BOOK. 371 

as for fricassee ; flatten the thickest pieces and pare nicely ; season 
with salt and pepper, range in a sautoir with melted butter, cover, 
and cook slowly on both sides ; drain the butter off, add two glasses 
of white wine, a gill of white broth, and a pint and a half of velout^ 
sauce ; cover and let simmer fifteen minutes longer ; dish up the in- 
ferior pieces on the centre of a dish, then the legs, wings, and eight 
heart-shaped slices of red beef-tongue around the base, putting the 
breasts on top ; add lemon-juice and two ounces of butter to the 
sauce, pour over, and serve. 

Green-Gage Tart with Rice. — Slit and remove the pits of about 
eighteen green gages ; cook them in syrup and drain on a sieve ; 
cook a pound of rice and prepare a tart crust as directed [No. 179] ; 
put half of the rice in the crust, then all the gages, cover with the 
rice, smooth nicely, bake in a moderate oven, sprinkle powdered 
sugar over, and serve hot. 



No. 22S. 

Friday, August 10. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Pickerel, i la Malmesbury. 

Stewed eel a la canotiere ; 
Sliced cucumbers. 

Round of beef i la Columbus ; 
Potatoes a la Bignon. 

FrittO-misto, Roman style ; 
EscaroUe salad. 

Watermelon. 

Pickerel Soup d, la Malmesbury. — Take the fillets of a three- 
pound pickerel , pare off the skin and bones, cut in inch-squares, sea- 
son with salt and pepper, and cook in a sautoir with melted butter and 
a glass of white wine, then drain on a dish and save the gravy ; pick, 
wash, and cook three pints of mussels, take them out of the shells, put 
them with the fish, and save the liquor ; take the meat of a small lobster 
boiled in the fish-broth, cut in small pieces, and put it also with the 
fish ; prepare three quarts of fish-broth as directed [No. 327], adding 
the fish-parings and gravy, and mussel-liquor ; thicken with three 
ounces of flour cooked in butter, boil ten minutes, skim ; add a pinch 
of red pepper, a liaison of four egg-yolks, a cup of cream, and two 
ounces of butter ; mix quickly, strain into a soup-tureen ; add the fish, 
mussels, and lobster, and serve. 

Stewed Eel d la Canotiere. — Chop an onion, put it in a sauce- 
pan with two ounces of butter ; fry light brown, add a pound of rice, 



372 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

fry a little longer, wet with a quart of fish-broth, season with white and 
a pinch of red pepper, cover, and cook twenty minutes ; take it off the 
fire, add six ounces of butter and a ladleful of tomato sauce ; mix well, 
fill a buttered plain-border mould, and keep it hot ; cut two large eels 
in three-inch lengthsj put them in a saucepan with claret wine and 
light broth in equal parts, salt, pepper-corns, a garnished bunch of 
parsley, two cloves of garlic, and a sliced onion ; cover, and boil fifteen 
minutes ; brown two ounces of flour in butter, dilute with the eel-broth, 
and boil ten minutes ; add a tablespoonful of anchovy essence, two 
ounces of butter, some lemon-juice, and press through a napkin ; turn 
the rice on a dish, and fill the centre with the fish and sauce in pyram- 
idal form ; sprinkle chopped parsley over, and serve. 

Round of Beef a la Columbus. — Cook a good-sized round 
piece of beef as directed [No. 345] ; drain, skim the fat, reduce the 
gravy to a demi-glaze, and keep hot with the beef ; prepare large ripe 
tomatoes stuffed a la Caroline [No. 280] ; place the beef on a dish, pour 
the gravy over, arrange the tomatoes round it, and serve. 

Stuffed Potatoes ^ la Bignon. — Prepare and bake some 
eighteen potatoes as directed [No. 216] ; dish up in pyramidal form, 
pour a demi-glaze sauce round them, and serve. 

Fritto-Misto, Roman Style. — Since the preparation of this dish 
depends upon the season, it requires both time and attention from the 
cook. In this recipe we give only a few of the ingredients which can 
be had easily in summer-time ; but most kinds of small frying vege- 
tables, fish, meat, croquettes, etc., may be advantageously used : Pare 
and slice four lamb fries; season with salt, 'pepper, and lemon-juice ; 
cook a veal sweetbread in broth, and cut it in thin slices ; cut and salt 
small round slices of egg-plant ; cook a well-steeped calf's brain, drain, 
divide in eight parts ; season with salt, pepper, and vinegar ; collop half 
a pound of calf's liver, fry a little in oil, drain, and season with salt 
and pepper ; have very hot sweet oil or lard in two large frying-pans ; 
bread-crumb in beaten eggs, and fry light brown the lamb fries, sweet- 
bread, and egg-plant in one frying-pan ; dip the calf's brain, calf's liver, 
and some boiled flowerets of cauliflower in a light flour batter, and fry 
slightly crisp in the other frying-pan ; drain the whole on a cloth, be- 
sprinkle with salt, group on a folded napkin, put a handful of fried 
parsley on top, surround with quartered lemons, and serve. 

Watermelon. — Serve as muskmelon [No. 215]. 



COOKERY BOOK. 373 

No. S23. 

Saturday, August 11. — Bill of fare for eight persons: 

Soup : Puree of lettuce with peas. 

Paupiettes of sole au vin blanc ; 
Potatoes, English style. 

CoUops of veal a la Savoisienne ; 
Fried egg-plant. 

Duck pie a la Chartraine ; 
Tomato salad. 



Cups-of-tea custard. 

Puree of Lettuce with Peas. — Pick and parboil six large cab- 
bage-headed lettuces ; cool, press the water out, chop fine and put in a 
saucepan with two green onions and four ounces of butter ; stir on the 
fire until the moisture is evaporated, put in two ounces of flour, dilute 
with two quarts of broth ; add a quart of large, fresh-shelled, green peas, 
salt, pepper, and a bunch of parsley, and cook thoroughly ; drain and 
rub through a fine sieve, dilute with the liquid and sufficient broth, 
boil again, skim ; add four ounces of butter, a little sugar, and a cup 
of cream ; pour into a soup-tureen, and serve with fried small squares 
of bread separately on a plate. 

Paupiettes of Sole au Vin Blanc. — Take the fillets of two large 
flounders ; pare off the skin, flatten, cut the larger ones crosswise in 
two ; season with salt and pepper, spread on one side a little fish force- 
meat [No. 1 2] mingled with chopped shallots, parsley, and mushrooms ; 
roll each fillet in a strip of buttered paper, range them closely, one 
end high, in a sautoir with melted butter ; cover and let simmer a 
little, add two glasses of white wine and two ladlefuls of white broth, 
and cook in the oven, taking care to baste occasionally with the liquid ; 
drain the fillets, remove the paper, pare again, and dish up in pyramidal 
form ; put a pint of veloute sauce in the sautoir, reduce to the desired 
consistency, add four ounces of butter and lemon-juice ; press through 
a napkin, pour the sauce over the fish, and serve. 

Collops of Veal a la Savoisienne. — Cut three pounds of fillet 
of veal in thin collops ; flatten, season with salt and pepper, put in a 
sautoir with melted butter, and fry light brown on both sides ; put in a 
chopped onion, fry a little longer ; add a pint of espagnole and tomato 
sauce in equal parts, a glass of marsala wine, and a little broth ; boil 
twenty minutes, finish with two ounces of butter, lemon-juice, and 
chopped parsley ; butter and fill a dozen small timbale-moulds with rice 
a la turinoise [No. 211] ; turn border-like on a dish, fill the centre with 
the veal, pour the sauce over, and serve. 



374 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Duck Pie ^ la Chartraine. — Prepare two pounds of short- 
paste [No. 351] ; line a buttered french pie-mould with three fourths of 
it ; make a pound and a half of pork sausage-meat, fat and lean in equal 
parts ; season with salt, pepper, chopped shallots, and parsley ; cut three 
young ducks in quarters, bone them ; season with salt, pepper, sweet 
oil, and fine herbs ; put on a dish, and let steep an hour ; spread sau- 
sage-meat in the mould, add the inferior pieces of the ducks, put in more 
sausage-meat, then the rest of the ducks ; finish with meat, smooth nicely, 
add a barde of lard and bay-leaf ; wet the edge, cover with a thin layer 
of paste, make both edges adhere by pressing gently with thumbs and fore- 
fingers ; trim and pinch slightly with a paste-pincher ; wet again, put a 
smaller flat of feuilletage paste on top, make an inch-round hole in the 
centre, egg the surface, trace slight incisions, and cook in a moderate 
oven for two hours ; cool partially, fill with meat jelly made with the 
duck-bones, veal, beef -broth, sliced vegetables, and aromatics ; shut the 
hole with a small piece of paste, and cool thoroughly. This pie ought 
to be cooked at least twenty-four hours before serving. 

Cups-of-Tea Custard.— Proceed as directed [No. 158] ; but use 
a strong tea infusion instead of coffee. 



No. 224. 

Sunday, August 12. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Consomme a la Rivoli. 

Spanish mackerel a la Castillane ; 
Potato croquettes. 

Fillets of chicken a la Dauphine ; 
Baked cauliflowers. 



Fillet of beef a la Provenjale ; 
Romaine salad. 

Mousse au marasquin. 

Consomme ^ la Rivoli. — Mix in a vessel six ounces of flour, with 
four ounces of grated parmesan cheese, nutmeg, and four eggs (this 
paste must have the smoothness of a thick flour-batter) ; drop a little in 
boiling water to test the consistency; boil three quarts of rich consomme 
[No. 133] in a saucepan ; put the above preparation in two strong 
paper funnels, cut a little hole at the small ends, and by gentle pressure 
force out the paste the size of a small pencil into the simmering con- 
somme ; cook five minutes, pour into a soup-tureen, and serve with 
grated parmesan cheese separately on a plate. 

Spanish Mackerel a la Castillane.— Procure a large Spanish 



COOKERY BOOK. 375 

mackerel ; cut the fins, wash, and wipe dry ; remove the central part 
of the spine, season with salt and pepper, and stuff slightly with force- 
meat mingled with fine herbs ; put this on a buttered baking fish-dish 
with sliced onions, a bunch of parsley with aromatics, two glassfuls of 
sherry wine, a pint of veloute sauce, and two ladlefuls of white broth ; 
cover with a buttered paper, boil, and cook in the oven for half an 
hour, basting occasionally with the gravy ; drain the liquid in a sauce- 
pan, add more veloute sauce, reduce to the desired consistency ; add 
lemon-juice, a little anchovy-butter, and four ounces of butter ; mix 
well and press through a napkin, slide the fish on a dish, range a row 
of heads of mushrooms on top, pour the sauce over, surround with 
small lobster croquettes, and serve. 

Fillets of Chicken a la Dauphine. — Take separately the eight 
large fillets and the minion fillets of four fleshy spring chickens (re- 
serve the legs for the next day) ; pare, make a deep incision in the thin 
side of the large fillets, cutting nearly through, and spread them on the 
table, the outer side uppermost ; put an egg-sized piece of cooked 
force-meat [No. 314] on each one, infold, give the shape of a pear, and 
lay them on heart-shaped slices of red beef-tongue ; pare the minion 
fillets, cutting them diagonally — not through ; insert semicircular slices 
of truffles and place them lengthwise on top of the large stuffed fillets, 
cover with thin bardes of fat pork, range in a sautoir with melted 
butter, cover with a buttered paper, and cook on a moderate fire for 
fifteen minutes, basting occasionally with a little broth ; make fast a 
long conical fried piece of bread in the centre of an oval dish, range 
the fillets against it, small end up, alternating with cock-combed slices 
of bread fried in butter ; cover the tops with sHced truffles, pour a little 
of thin veloute sauce over all, and a white perigueux sauce round the 
fillets, and serve. 

Fillet of Beef a la Provengale.— Lard and roast a fillet of 
beef as directed [No. 217] ; surround with large stuffed mushrooms 
and tomatoes a la provengale ; pour a madeira sauce round the beef, 
and serve. 

Mousse au Marasquin. — Line an appropriate timbale-mould 
with thin white paper and imbed in salted ice ; dilute carefully eight 
raw egg-yolks with three gills of hot syrup at thirty-six degrees (pese- 
syrop), press this through a napkin over a copper basin, add a gill of 
maraschino and a glassful of kirschwasser ; whip quickly for three 
minutes on the fire (to thicken but not curdle the eggs), then put on ice 
and continue whipping while cooking ; add sufficient well-whipt cream, 
mix well, and fill the mould ; cover hermetically by filling the chinks 



376 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

of the lid with butter, and bury in a pail of salted ice for at least two 
hours ; at serving-time immerse in cold water, turn on a folded napkin 
and remove the paper lining. 



No. 225. 

Monday, August 13. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Vermicelli and tomato. 

Sturgeon steak a la Romaine ; 
Potatoes a la Parisienne. 



Legs of Chicken a la Macedoine : 
Eggs a la comtesse. 

Sirloin steaks, Albert sauce ; 
Sweet pepper and onion salad. 

Grape tart a la Fontainebleau. 

Vermicelli and Tomato. — Prepare two quarts of consommd 
[No. 133] ; boil six ounces of large white vermicelli in salted water for 
fifteen minutes ; drain, put in a saucepan with the consomme and a 
quart of tomato puree ; boil ten minutes longer, skim, pour into a soup- 
tureen, and serve with grated parmesan cheese on a plate. 

Sturgeon Steak a la Romaine. — Procure one large or two 
medium-sized sturgeon steaks weighing about four pounds ; pare, truss, 
put in a sautoir with salt, pepper, sliced onion, and a bunch of parsley 
with aromatics ; wet with red wine and light broth, cover with a but- 
tered paper and cook forty minutes ; drain and range the fish on a 
dish, surround with parsley-leaves, and serve with a romaine sauce 
[No. 53] in a sauce-bowl. 

Legs of Chicken a la Macedoine. — Pare the stump and remove 
the second-joint bone of eight legs of chicken (left over the day before) ; 
season with salt and pepper and stuff slightly with a little veal sausage- 
meat, mixed with fine herbs ; sew up and cook them in a sautoir for 
about forty minutes, with a bunch of parsley, sliced vegetables, and 
white broth ; drain and press between two tin sheets with a weight on 
top until cold ; strain, free the broth from its fat, and reduce to the 
thickness of a demi-glaze sauce; rip the sewing, pare the legs, and 
heat them in this sauce ; dish up in a circle, alternating with heart- 
shaped slices of bread fried in butter ; fill the hollow with a garnishing 
a la macedoine .[No. 352], put a small head of cauliflower on top, 
pour the sauce over the meat, add white-paper ruffles to the stump- 
bones, and serve. 

Eggs a la Comtesse. — Take a dozen fresh-laid eggs ; put in a 
colander, immerse in boiling water, and boil five and a half minutes j 



COOKERY BOOK, 377 

drain and put in cold water, remove the shells carefully, wipe dry, dip 
in very consistent allemande sauce, and cool them on a dish ; then 
sprinkle with dry crumbs, dip in beaten eggs, roll in fresh white crumbs, 
and smooth nicely ; range in a frying wire-basket, immerse in plenty of 
very hot fat, and fry light brown ; drain on a cloth, and dish up on a 
folded napkin. 

Sirloin Steaks, Albert Sauce. — Procure four fat-streaked sirloin 
steaks ; flatten, season with salt and pepper, baste with oil, and broil 
rather rare at the last moment ; place on a dish, range small 
round fried potatoes on each side, pour an albert sauce over the steaks, 
and serve. 

Albert Sauce. — Put three chopped shallots in a saucepan with an 
ounce of butter and a half gill of vinegar ; reduce to one fourth, add 
a cupful of freshly grated horseradish, two ladlefuls of white broth, 
and a half pint of veloute sauce ; boil to a puree, rub through a sieve, 
return to a saucepan, and stir to a boil ; add three egg-yolks, a cup of 
cream, three ounces of butter in small bits, and chopped parsley ; mix 
well without boiling, and use. 

Grape Tart a la Fontainebleau. — Prepare and bake a round 
ten-inch-wide tart-crust as directed [No. 156] ; baste with thick syrup 
and dry in the warming-place ; pick a pound of ripe white grapes, put 
them in an earthen vessel with about six ounces of powdered sugar and 
a small glass of white wine ; toss a little, let the sugar melt to a syrup, 
fill the crust, and serve. 



No. 226. 

Tuesday, August 14. — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup : Hodge-podge, English style. 

Fillets of flounder i la Dieppoise ; 
Potatoes sauiees. 



Rump of beef a I'Andalouse ; 
Lima beans au veloute. 



Cutlets of chicken a I'Allemande ; 
Tomato salad, Mayonnaise. 

Cream jelly with chocolate. 

Hodge-Podge, English Style. — Take three ox-tails ; pare both 
ends off, cut the tails in short pieces, steep an hour, changing the water 
two or three times ; parboil five minutes, cool, wash them well, and 
drain on a cloth ; put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter,' stir 
on the fire until the moisture is evaporated, wet with four quarts of 
broth, add a bunch of parsley with aromatics and an onion with three 



378 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

cloves stuck in it, cover and boil slowly until the meat parts easily from 
the bones ; skim off the fat, then with a skimmer transfer the meat to 
another saucepan ; strain and thicken the broth with three ounces of 
flour browned in butter, add a glass of port and a gill of sherry wine, 
and boil half an hour ; peel two dozen small onions, besprinkle with 
sugar, fry light brown in butter, drain off the butter, add a little broth, 
and cook till soft ; cut some carrots in nickel-sized pieces, and cook 
also with a little sugar and broth ; mix the carrots and onions with the 
ox-tails, strain the soup, give another boil, pour into a soup-tureen, and 
serve. 

Fillets of Flounder ^ la Dieppoise. — Take the fillets of a pair 
of two-pound flukes (the flesh is firmer and better flavored than the 
common flounder) ; pare off the skin, fold in two, flatten slightly, season 
with salt and pepper, and cook partially in a sautoir with melted butter ; 
press slightly between two tin sheets until cold ; besprinkle with dry 
crumbs, dip in eggs beaten with an equal quantity of melted butter, 
roll in fresh crumbs, smooth nicely, fold in strips of paper, baste with 
oil, and broil over a very slow fire ; spread some maitre d' hotel sauce 
on a dish, remove the paper, and range the fillets over the sauce, sur- 
round with quartered lemons, and serve. 

Rump of Beef a 1' Andalouse. — Prepare and cook a rump piece 
of beef as directed [No. 345] ; skim the fat, strain, and reduce the 
gravy to a demi-glaze sauce ; cook separately four large cabbage- 
hearted lettuce, blanch them, cut in halves, season and cook in a little 
broth with bardes of fat pork over them ; parboil a savoy cabbage, 
cool, press the water out, divide in eight parts, season with salt and 
pepper, roll in thin bardes of lard, range in a sautoir with a pound of 
small sausages and a little white broth, cover and cook an hour, then re- 
move the lard, drain the cabbage on a plate, and dish up the beef, 
surround with groups of cabbage, lettuce, and sausages cut in short 
pieces ; pour the reduced gravy over all, and serve. 

Cutlets of Chicken a 1' Allemande. — Cut some cooked white 
chicken-meat in small squares with red beef-tongue and mushrooms ; 
mix with an equal quantity of raw chicken force-meat ; season with salt, 
pepper, nutmeg, and chopped parsley ; divide in eight or more parts 
on a floured table, and flatten the shape and size of a short and thick 
mutton chop ; cook in a sautoir with melted butter long enough to 
stiffen the force-meat, and cool between two tin sheets ; sprinkle with 
dry crumbs, dip in beaten eggs, roll in fresh crumbs, smooth with the 
blade of a knife, and fry light brown ; insert short chicken bones in the 
small end, dish up in a circle, pour an allemande sauce in the centre, 
add paper ruffles to the bones, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 379 

Cream Jelly with Chocolate. — Melt half a pound of chocolate 
in a warm vessel ; work eight egg-yolks with ten ounces of powdered 
sugar, dilute with a quart of milk, and stir on the fire until the prepara- 
tion thickens ; pour this over the melted chocolate, mix well, pass 
through a fine strainer, then proceed and serve as directed [No. 201] 
for cream jelly english style. 



No. 227. 

Wednesday, August 15. — Bill of fare for eight persons: 

Soup : Garbure a la Freneuse. 

Fried porgies, tartar sauce ; 
Saratoga potatoes. 

Fillets of veal a la Milanaise ; 
Stuffed egg-plant a 1' Italienne. 

Porterhouse steaks a la Rosny ; 
Chiccory salad. 

Compiegne cake. 

Garbure cL la Freneuse. — Prepare and cut two quarts of 
turnips in six or eight parts, put them in a sautoir with four ounces of 
melted butter, besprinkle with a little powdered sugar, toss on the fire 
until light brown and the moisture is mostly evaporated ; drain the 
butter off, wet with a quart of beef-broth, and boil about half an hour 
until soft ; take the upper crust of a loaf of french bread, cut in pieces, 
put in a deep china baking-dish with a pint of strained beef-broth from 
the surface of the stock-pot ; set to simmer, and bake slightly for half 
an hour ; skim, and pour the turnips over the bread, and serve with 
two quarts of beef-broth separately in a soup-tureen. 

Fried Porgies, Tartar Sauce. — Pare off the fins, cleanse, and 
dress four pounds of porgies ; wipe them dry, make slight incisions on 
each side, toss them in a napkin with a handful of flour, shake the 
superfluous flour off, plunge the half at a time in plenty of very hot 
fat, and fry slightly crisp and of a very nice color ; drain on a cloth, 
salt, range on a folded napkin with a handful of fried parsley, and serve 
with a tartar sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Fillets of Veal ^ la Milanaise. — Cut three pounds of lean fillet 
of veal in eight or more pieces ; flatten, pare a little, fasten fine shreds 
of fat pork on one side, and cook as directed [No. 135] ; drain, strain, 
skim the fat, reduce the gravy to a demi-glaze sauce, and keep warm 
with the fillets ; prepare a garnishing a la milanaise [No. 277] ; dish up 
the fillets in a circle alternately with fillet-shaped slices of bread fried 



38o FRANCO-AMERICAN 

in butter ; pour the garnishing in the centre and the sauce over the fil- 
lets, and serve. 

Porterhouse Steaks ^ la Rosny. — Procure two large porter- 
house steaks ; prepare as directed [No. 213] ; pare and quarter six 
cucumbers ; remove the seeds, cut in two-inch lengths, trim a little, 
parboil, drain, and fry light brown in melted butter with a little sugar ; 
drain the butter off, and let the cucumbers simmer ten minutes with 
two ladlefuls of poivrade sauce ; broil the steaks rather rare ; put them 
on a dish, surround with the cucumbers, and serve with more poivrade 
sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Compi^gne Cake. — Prepare a paste as follows : Put six ounces 
of flour in a small vessel ; hollow the centre, put in an ounce of con- 
centrated yeast, dilute with three gills of warm milk to a light dough, 
and set to rise in a warm closet; set a pound of flour in a larger vessel, 
make a hole in the middle ; put in half an ounce of salt, two ounces of 
sugar, half a pint of cream, twelve ounces of very soft butter, and six 
eggs ; mix, and work well for five minutes ; add the raised dough, and 
knead quickly, adding gradually four more eggs, and raising the paste 
with the right hand to make it absorb as much air as possible and until 
it no longer sticks to the hand and vessel ; then add a pint of well- 
whipt cream [No. 77], and mix quickly again ; butter a large cylindri- 
cal cake-mould, line the bottom with buttered paper, fill two thirds 
with the paste, and set in a hot place for the dough to rise again ; 
when nearly full put it on a baking-sheet, and bake in a moderate oven 
for about an hour and a half ; turn to cool on a small wire or twig 
crate, and then serve on a folded napkin. 



No. 228. 

Thursday, August 16. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Veal and rice, English style. 

Brook-trout a la Biarritz ; 
Potatoes a la HoUandaise. 

Noix of veal a la Sarde ; 
Fried cauliflower a la Lucquoise. 

Tournedos of beef a la Colbert ; 
Beet and lettuce salad. 

St. Honore cake a 1' orange. 

Veal and Rice, English Style.— Prepare three quarts of veal- 
broth as directed [No. 298] ; take up the glutinous part of the knuckle 
and let it cool in the larder ; wash well half a pound of rice, parboil 



COOKERY BOOK. 381 

five minutes, drain, and cook twenty minutes in a quart of veal-broth ; 
pare, and cut the knuckle in thin squares, put it in the remaining broth 
with the rice, give a boil, skim, pour into a soup-tureen, and serve. 

Brook-Trout ^ la Biarritz. — Take eight small brook-trout, all 
of one size ; cleanse, and wipe dry ; make an incision from head to tail 
on one side, roll in melted butter, range on a baking-dish, fill the inci- 
sion with a cold maitre d' hotel sauce, and cook in a brisk oven, basting 
occasionally with the melted sauce ; drain, and range on a dish ; melt 
an ounce of anchovy-butter with sufficient hollandaise sauce, pour this 
over the trout, and serve. 

Noix of Veal ^ la Sarde. — Procure a noix of white fat veal 
with the udder attached ; pare the uncovered part, and lard with small 
strips of fat pork ; line a flat saucepan with sliced vegetables, pork and 
veal trimmings, and a bunch of parsley ; put in the veal, the larded 
side uppermost, half fill the saucepan with white broth, cover with a 
buttered paper, start to a boil, put the lid on the saucepan, and cook 
in a slow oven for about three hours, taking care to baste the surface 
occasionally with the gravy ; then take the lid off, and glaze the veal 
to a nice color ; strain, free the gravy from its fat, and reduce to a 
demi-glaze with two ladlefuls of espagnole sauce ; dish up the veal, 
surround with groups of raviolis a la sarde [No. 204] ; pour the reduced 
gravy over the raviolis, and s,erve. 

Tournedos of Beef a la Colbert.— Cut three pounds of lean 
fillet (tenderloin) of beef in about sixteen slices ; flatten slightly, and 
season with salt and pepper ; melt four ounces of butter and sweet oil 
in equal parts in a large flat frying-pan, range in this the small fillets, 
put it on a very brisk fire, fry them quickly on both sides and rather 
rare, and drain them on a plate ; drain most of the fat from the sautoir, 
add a ladleful of chopped shallot, fry a little, wet with a glass of sherry 
wine and half a pint of espagnole sauce ; boil a minute, finish with four 
ounces of butter in small bits, a pinch of red pepper, lemon-juice, and 
chopped parsley ; return the fillets to the sauce, mix well, boil no 
longer, dish in a circle, fill the centre with small round fried potatoes, 
surround with eight heart-shaped slices of bread fried in butter, and 
serve. 

St. Honore Cake a 1' Orange.— Prepare a St. Honors cake 
crust as directed [No. 151] ; pare, and remove the seeds of two large, 
sweet, and juicy quartered oranges ; dip these in sugar cooked au car- 
amel (310 degrees Fahrenheit), and range them instead of the small 
cakes on the border of the crust ; prepare the same cream as directed 
in the above number, pour in the centre, cool, and serve. 



382 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 229. 

Friday, August 17. — Bill of fare for eight persons: 
Soup : Clam, American style. 

Curry of lobster a 1' Indienne ; 
I5oiled ricfs a la Creole. 

Stewed beef a la Parisienne ; 
Stewed potatoes. 

Chicken saute a la Bearnaise ; 
Potato salad. 

Pineapple pudding, 

Clam Soup, American Style. — Procure three pints of small Little 
Neck clams (if too large cut them in two) ; put them in a saucepan with 
a pint of unsalted white broth, white pepper, a pinch of ground mace, 
and two ounces of butter ; cover and boil ten minutes ; add half a pint 
of boiled milk, half a pint of white-butter sauce, and a pint of finely 
bruised butter-crackers ; pour into the soup-tureen, and serve. 

Curry of Lobster, Indian Style. — Boil two large lobsters ; take 
the meat from the tails and claws, and cut in collops ; rub the creamy- 
part and coral through a fine sieve with four egg-yolks and two ounces 
of butter, reserving this on a plate ; fry slightly a chopped onion with 
two ounces of butter, put in an ounce of flour and two tablespoonfuls 
of curry-powder ; mix well, dilute with white broth and a glass of 
white wine, and boil twenty minutes ; add the prepared egg-yolks, mix 
well without boiling, pass forcibly through a fine strainer, and heat the 
lobster in the sauce ; cook half a pound of rice with a pint of broth, 
add four ounces of melted butter, two pinches of powdered saffron, a 
tablespoonful of curry-powder, and mix well ; fill eight or more small 
buttered timbale-moulds ; let rest a while, turn them in a circle on a 
dish, fill the centre with the colloped lobster, and serve with another 
dish of rice boiled ^ la Creole. 

Stewed Beef a la Parisienne. — Cut four pounds of sirloin of 
beef in eight or more pieces ; put it in a sautoir with salt, pepper, and 
melted butter ; fry light brown on both sides, add two chopped onions, 
fry a little longer, wet with a pint of claret and broth in equal parts 
and a pint of espagnole sauce ; add a bunch of parsley with aromatics, 
cover, and let simmer slowly for an hour and a half ; drain and dish 
up the beef in pyramidal form ; take off the fat and parsley, pour the 
sauce over, surround with groups of small, round potato croquettes, 
and serve. 

Chicken Saut6 cL la Bearnaise. — Singe, draw, and divide two 
tender chickens as for fricassee ; season with salt and pepper, range in 



COOKERY BOOK. 383 

a sautoir with melted butter and sweet oil in equal parts, cover, and fry 
light brown ; drain most of the fat off, put in a tablespoonful of chopped 
shallots, fry a little longer ; wet with a gill of white wine, half a pint of 
white broth, and a pint of veloute sauce ; cover and let simmer half an 
hour ; dish up the chicken ; add four egg-yolks to the sauce, mix well, 
and cook a little without boiling ; add six ounces of butter in small 
bits, stirring all the time ; finish with a pinch of red pepper, chopped 
tarragon and parsley, and lemon-juice ; pour this over the chicken, 
surround with heart-shaped slices of bread fried in oil, and serve. 

Pineapple Pudding. — Pare and quarter two ripe pineapples ; 
trim a little, cut in slices, and mingle with six ounces of powdered 
sugar ; butter and line an english pudding-bowl with pudding-paste 
[No. 171] ; wet the edge, cover with a fiat of the same paste, and twist 
the edge to make the cover stick ; fold in a strong buttered and 
floured napkin, tie firmly, plunge in boiling water, and boil steadily 
for two hours ; drain, remove the napkin, invert on a dish, take off the 
bowl, and serve. 

No. S30. 

Saturday, August 18. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Puree a la Croissy. 

Baked fillets of mackerel with cream ; 
Stewed potatoes. 

Breast of lamb 4 la Turque ; 
Fried egg-plant. 

Cutlets of pigeon a la Talleyrand ; 
Roman and chive salad. 



Cheese-cake, English style. 

Puree i, la Croissy. — Put in a saucepan sliced carrots, turnips, 
an onion, a pint of fresh white beans, two leeks, parsley, celery- 
roots, and a handful of sorrel, with four ounces of butter ; stir and fry 
until nearly dry ; sprinkle two ounces of flour, add a quart of raw 
tomatoes and two quarts of white broth, cover, and cook slowly for 
two hours ; drain in a colander, pound the vegetables, dilute with their 
broth, and rub through a fine sieve ; return to a saucepan, boil again, 
skim ; add more broth if required, a teaspoonful of sugar, four ounces 
of butter, and a cup of raw cream ; pour into a soup-tureen with a 
pint of small green peas, and serve. 

Baked Fillets of Mackerel with Cream. — Take the fillets of 
two large mackerel ; pare off the skin and bones, cut each fillet cross- 
wise in two ; pare a little, season with salt and pepper, put in a sautoir 



384 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

with melted butter, cook on both sides, and drain on a plate ; put a 
glass of white wine and a pint of bechamel sauce in the sautoir, boil 
two minutes, and thicken with two egg-yolks ; spread a thin layer of 
fish force-meat in a circle on a baking-dish, range the half of the fish 
over the circle, mask with another thin layer of force-meat, then the 
rest of the fish ; cover with force-meat, leaving a hollow in the 
centre ; cover with the sauce, sprinkle with fresh crumbs and grated 
cheese, drop melted butter through a heated skimmer all over, and 
bake light brown in a brisk oven ; squeeze lemon-juice over the fish, 
and serve in the baking-dish. 

Breast of Lamb ^ la Turque. — Procure two fleshy breasts of 
lamb ; remove the ribs and red breast-bones, make a deep incision in 
the large end, and fill with sausage-meat made with three parts of lean 
lamb, one part of veal-suet, salt, pepper, allspice, and two egg-yolks ; 
put the lamb in a sautoir half full of white broth, with sliced vegetables, 
a bunch of parsley, and a gill of sherry wine ; cover with a buttered 
paper, and cook in a moderate oven for an hour, basting occasionally 
to cook of a nice color ; take up the lamb, skim the fat, drain and 
reduce the gravy to a demi-glaze sauce ; put a pound of rice into a 
saucepan with a quart of rich, boiling lamb or mutton broth ; boil, 
cover, and cook fifteen minutes ; add six ounces of clarified butter and 
half a teaspoonful of pulverized saffron diluted with a little water ; mix 
well, cover, and let rest ten minutes ; turn on a dish, smooth and make 
slightly hollow on top ; untruss and place the breasts on the rice, pour 
the reduced gravy over, and serve. 

Cutlets of Pigeon ^ la Talleyrand. — Prepare and cook some 
eight cutlets of pigeon as directed [No. 212] ; prepare also a garnishing 
with artichoke bottoms, mushrooms, red beef-tongue, and fat chicken- 
livers, all cut in small squares ; mix with a well-buttered veloute sauce; 
dish up the cutlets in a circle alternately with heart-shaped slices of 
bread fried in butter ; pour the garnishing in the centre, add small 
white-paper ruffles to the stumps, and serve. 

Cheese-Cake, English Style. — Procure a quart of hard curded 
milk ; drain in a fine cloth, stir in an earthen vessel Avith four ounces of 
butter, four ounces of sugar, a few drops of lemon-oil, eight egg-yolks, 
a small liqueur-glass of cognac brandy, and two ounces each of cur- 
rants and citron cut in small squares ; line a ten-inch round pastry- 
ring with tart-paste, fill with the preparation, bake half an hour, 
sprinkle with powdered sugar, cool partially, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 385 

No. 231. 

Sunday, August 19. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Cream custard au consomme. 

Whitebait a la Blackford ; 
Long Branch potatoes. 

Croustades of chicken a la Parisienne ; 
Macedoine of vesretables. 



Fillet of beef a la marinade ; 
Lettuce and fine-herbs salad. 



Pear pudding a la Bartlett. 

Cream Custard au Consomme. — Prepare three quarts of con- 
somme as directed [No. 133] ; break in a basin three eggs and twelve 
egg-yolks, with a little sugar, salt, white pepper, and nutmeg ; dilute 
with a pint of cream and press through a napkin ; butter eight small, 
plain timbale-moulds, fill with this preparation, put them in a sautoir 
with boiling water to half their height, cover, and let simmer slowly 
until well set ; let rest a while, turn into a deep dish with a pint of 
consomme, and serve along with the rest of the consomme in a soup- 
tureen. 

Whitebait el la Blackford. — The discovery of this most excel- 
lent little fish in our waters is ascribed to Eug. G. Blackford, the most 
prominent fishmonger and pisciculturist of New York. Whitebait is 
in season during the early summer months, and, owing to its delicacy, 
it ought to be cooked as soon as possible after catching. Drain the 
whitebait carefully in a soft cloth and shake them in a napkin with a 
handful of flour ; have some very hot lard in a large frying-pan, drop 
in the fish (not too many at a time), stir for two or three minutes, and 
fry them crisp ; drain on a cloth, sprinkle with fine salt, dish up on a 
folded napkin, surround with quartered lemons, and serve with plates 
of buttered, thin slices of wheat and rye bread, to be handed round 
with the fish. 

Croustades of Chicken §, la Parisienne. — Prepare a pound of 
short-paste [No. 351] ; line a dozen small buttered timbale-moulds, fill 
with dry flour, and bake in a brisk oven ; empty the crusts, brush the 
flour out, egg in and outside, and color slightly in the oven ; then with 
a little feuilletage paste, cut, egg, and bake small, round timbale-sized 
channelled covers ; cut cooked white chicken-meat, mushrooms, a 
sweetbread, and red beef-tongue in small squares ; mix with some 
well-buttered allemande sauce, fill the timbales, cover, and serve on a 
folded napkin. 

Fillet of Beef ii la Marinade. — Procure a thick, fat-streaked ten- 



386 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

derloin of beef ; pare off the sinews and superfluous fat, fasten small strips 
of fat pork on the pared side, and put in an oval dish with a sliced 
onion, two bay-leaves, sprigs of thyme, salt, pepper-corns, sprays of 
parsley, a glass of vinegar, and four tablespoonfuls of sweet oil to steep 
for three hours, turning the fillet once in a while so as to season it well ; 
drain, truss, and put the fillet on the spit and the marinade in the drip- 
ping-pan ; roast before a brisk fire for about fifty minutes, basting with 
the drippings ; untruss and dish up the fillet, skim the fat, and make a 
poivrade sauce [No. 314] with the drippings and a pint of broth ; pour 
some round the beef, and serve the rest in a sauce-bowl. 

Pear Pudding d. la Bartlett. — Quarter, pare, and cook in a 
syrup a dozen ripe Bartlett pears ; drain, rub through a fine sieve, and 
mix with six ounces of powdered sugar ; have half a pound of cherry 
and pineapple preserves cut in small squares ; put the pear puree in a 
sorbetiere (freezer), and freeze in the ordinary way ; beat five egg- 
whites to a hard froth, mix with five ounces of sugar cooked au cara- 
mel (310 degrees Fahrenheit) ; put this with the frozen preparation 
(save a little for the sauce), add the cherries and cut pineapple ; put 
it in a channelled, conical ice-cream mould, cover hermetically, and 
imbed in a pail of salted ice for at least two hours ; make a sauce with 
the reduced pear-syrup, a glass of maraschino liqueur, and the beaten 
egg-white ; turn the pudding on a dish, pour the sauce over, and serve. 



No. 23S. 

Monday, August 20. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Macaroni and tomato. 

Tunny 4 la St. Augustin ; 
Potatoes a la Colbert. 

Minced fillet of beef, sauce poivrade ; 
Rice croquettes a la Parmesane. 

Roast leg of lamb i la Bretonne ; 
Tomato salad, Mayonnaise. 

Tourte of green gages i la Parisienne. 

Macaroni and Tomato Soup. — Boil half a pound of macaroni 
in salted water for fifteen minutes ; drain, cool, spread on a cloth, cut 
in inch-lengths, put in a saucepan with two quarts of tomato soup [No. 
276] and a quart of beef-broth ; boil ten minutes, skim, pour into a 
soup-tureen, and serve with grated parmesan cheese separately on a 
plate. 

Tunny ^ la St. Augustin. — Take a middle cut of tunny (or 
horse-mackerel as it is commonly called), weighing about four 



COOKERY BOOK. 387 

pounds ; put it in a saucepan with sliced onions and carrots, a bunch 
of parsley with aromatics, salt, pepper-corns, a gill of vinegar, 
and water enough to cover the fish ; start to a boil, and let simmer 
slowly for fifty minutes ; drain, and slide the fish on a dish, surround 
with stuffed green peppers [No. 288], pour a turtle sauce [No. 73] over 
the fish, and serve. 

Minced Fillet of Beef, Sauce Poivrade. — Cut some cold, roast 
fillet of beef (supposing there is some left over from the previous din- 
ner) in thin small slices ; put a tablespoonful of chopped shallots in a 
saucepan with an ounce of butter ; fry light brown, add little broth, 
and a pint of poivrade sauce ;.stir to a boil, put in the minced fillet, 
mix well, cover and heat thoroughly without boiling ; dish up in pyr- 
amidal form, pour the sauce over, besprinkle with chopped parsley, sur- 
round with heart-shaped slices of bread fried in butter ; range sliced 
gherkins on the edge of the dish, and serve. 

Rice Croquettes a la Parmesane. — Chop an onion, put it in 
a saucepan with two ounces of butter ; stir and fry slightly, add a 
pound of rice and stir a little longer ; moisten with a pint and a half 
of beef-broth and a pint of tomato sauce, stir to a boil, cover and 
cook twenty minutes ; take off the fire, add four egg-yolks, white 
pepper, nutmeg, and four ounces of butter ; return to the fire, mingle 
well, then mix with six ounces of grated parmesan cheese ; turn into a 
dish, and cool partially ; put on the table, sprinkle with dry crumbs, 
divide and roll in long cork-sized pieces ; dip in beaten eggs, roll again 
in fresh crumbs, smooth nicely, and fry in plenty of clear, hot lard ; 
drain on a cloth, and serve on a folded napkin. 

Roast Leg of Lamb a la Bretonne. — Choose a white and 
fat leg of lamb ; remove the hip-bone and superfluous fat, pare the 
handle, season with salt and pepper, truss firmly, and roast rather well 
for about an hour and a quarter ; put on a dish, skim and reduce 
the drippings to a demi-glaze with a ladleful of espagnole sauce and a 
little broth ; cook a quart of fresh white beans in salted water, drain 
and pound to a puree ; chop and broAvn slightly two onions in two 
ounces of butter, add the beans, dilute with sufficient rich broth, rub 
through a sieve, heat again, season with salt and pepper, and finish 
with two ounces of butter and demi-glaze sauce ; dish up the lamb, 
pour the reduced drippings over, put a paper ruffle on the handle, and 
serve with the bean puree separately in a deep dish. 

Tourte of Green Gages a la Parisienne.-— Prepare a green- 
gage marmalade as follows : slit about a quart of green gages and re- 
move the pits, put in a basin with a pound of crushed sugar, and stir 



388 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

on the fire steadily until reduced to the consistency of a marmalade ; 
then proceed and bake exactly as directed [No. 177], but use the green- 
gage instead of pineapple marmalade ; serve cold. 



No. 233. 

Tuesday, August 21. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Fidelini, a la royale. 

Fillets of blue-fish , anchovy cream ; 
Baked mashed potatoes. 

Paupiettes of veal a la jardiniere ; 
Stuffed tomatoes. 

Roast ham, Yorkshire sauce ; 
Lettuce and egg salad. 

Bavarois a la Praslin. 

Fidelini, a la Royale. — Boil half a pound of^fidelini (a sort of very 
fine straight macaroni) for fifteen minutes in salted water ; drain, put 
in a saucepan with five pints of chicken-broth [No. 310] ; boil ten min- 
utes longer, finish with a liaison of six egg-yolks, half a pint of cream, 
white pepper, and nutmeg ; mix well without boiling ; pour into a 
soup-tureen, and serve with grated parmesan cheese separately on a 
plate. 

Fillets of Blue-Fish, Anchovy Cream. — Take the fillets of a 
five-pound blue-fish, divide each fillet in four or more pieces, pare, 
season with salt and pepper, range in a sautoir with melted butter, a 
glass of white wine, and lemon-juice ; cover with a buttered paper, set 
on the fire, and let simmer slowly until firm on both sides ; dish up in 
a row ; put a pint of bechamel sauce in the sautoir, stir two minutes, 
press through a napkin, add two tablespoonfuls of anchovy-essence, 
and four ounces of butter in small bits ; mix well, pour this over the 
fish, and serve, 

Paupiettes of Veal §, la Jardiniere. — Cut three pounds of fillet 
of veal in eight long thin slices ; flatten, season with salt and pepper, 
and mask one side with veal force-meat [No. 314] mixed with chopped 
shallots and parsley ; roll each paupiette on itself, and tie with a 
string ; range in a sautoir half full of white broth, with sliced vege- 
tables and a bunch of parsley with aromatics ; cover with thin bardes 
of fat pork and a buttered paper, boil and cook in the oven for about 
forty minutes, basting occasionally with the broth ; strain, skim the 
fat, and reduce the liquid with two ladlefuls of espagnole to a demi- 
glaze sauce ; drain, untie, pare, and dish up the paupiettes in pyr- 



COOKERY BOOK. 389 

amidal form ; group a garnishing a la jardiniere [No. 7] round the 
dish, pour the reduced sauce over the meat, and serve. 

Roast Ham, Yorkshire Sauce. — Pare, steep overnight, parboil 
and roast a ham as directed [No. 49] ; remove the rind, pare the hock, 
and place on a dish ; pour a little demi-glaze sauce round it, add a 
white-paper ruffle to the bone, and serve with a yorkshire sauce in a 
sauce-bowl. 

Yorkshire Sauce. — Pare thin and cut the rind of two oranges 
in very fine shreds ; parboil a minute, and drain in a small strainer ; 
melt in a saucepan half a pound of currant jelly, with half a pint of 
espagnole sauce, a gill of port wine, the juice of the oranges, and a 
little ground cinnamon ; stir and boil ten minutes, press through a 
napkin, add the orange rinds, and use. 

Bavarois a la Praslin. — Blanch half a pound of almonds ; 
chop fine and brown them slightly on a baking-sheet ; melt four 
ounces of powdered sugar in an untinned basin, stir on a slow fire until 
the sugar turns a reddish color ; add the almonds, mix well, dissolve 
with a gill of water, add a pint and a half of boihng milk, press 
through a napkin, pound the almonds to a paste, and put them in the 
milk again ; work eight egg-yolks in a saucepan with six ounces of 
sugar, dilute with the milk, stir on the fire until the preparation thickens, 
add an ounce and a half of clarified gelatine soaked in cold water, mix 
and stir well to dissolve the gelatine, press through a napkin again, and 
stir on ice until the cream begins to congeal ; then mix with sufficient 
well-whipt cream [No. 77] to fill a three-pint jelly-mould; imbed in 
ice, cool thoroughly, and serve the same as a jelly. 



No. 234. 

Wednesday, August 22. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Bisque of pigeon a 1' hoteliere. 

Baked black-fish with fine herbs ; 
Potatoes a la Bretonne. 

Chartreuse of lamb au gastronome ; 
Lima beans a la maitre d' hotel. 

Broiled summer ducks, shallot sauce ; 
Escarole and tarragon salad. 

Orange jelly in the peel. 

Bisque of Pigeon §, 1' Hoteliere.— Prepare, cover with thin 
bardes of fat pork, and roast four tender pigeons ; cool partially, and 
remove the largest bones ; boil the bones with the lard and drippings 



390 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

in some rich broth ; chop the remainder of the pigeons, and pound 
them to a puree ; put a chopped onion in a saucepan with two ounces 
of butter, fry light brown; add a pound of white stale bread previously 
soaked in cold water and well pressed ; stir a little longer, put in the 
pigeon-meat, mix well, dilute with the broth prepared with the bones 
and drippings, more white broth, and a gill of port wine ; stir, and boil 
ten minutes ; skim, and rub through a very fine sieve ; return to a 
saucepan, boil, and skim again ; finish with a pinch of red pepper and 
four ounces of butter in small bits ; pour in a soup-tureen, and serve 
with small squares of bread fried in butter separately on a plate. 

Baked Black-Fish with Fine Herbs. — Procure four medium- 
sized black-fish ; pare off the heads and fins, immerse a moment in 
boiling water to remove the slimy scales easily, cleanse well, and make 
a lengthwise incision on each side ; butter and strew a baking-dish 
with chopped onion, parsley, and mushrooms ; range the fish closely, 
add more chopped onion, etc., and small bits of butter in the incisions; 
wet with half a pint of white wine and broth in equal parts, cover with 
a buttered paper, boil, and cook in a moderate oven for half an hour, 
basting frequently with the liquid ; reduce what is left of the liquid 
with a pint of espagnole sauce, mask the fish, sprinkle with bread- 
crumbs, put small bits of butter on top, then bake briskly and light 
brown ; press the juice of a lemon over, and serve in the baking-dish. 

Chartreuse of Lamb au Gastronome. — Take two short fleshy 
breasts of lamb, remove the ribs and red breast-bones ; put the lamb 
in a sautoir with sliced vegetables, a bunch of parsley, and white broth 
to cover ; boil, cover, and let simmer half an hour ; drain, place be- 
tween two tin sheets with a weight on top, and let cool ; strain, skim, 
and reduce the broth to a demi-glaze with two ladlefuls of espagnole 
sauce ; pare off the greenest leaves and parboil a dozen cabbage- 
hearted lettuce-stalks, cool in cold water, press the water out, season 
with salt and pepper, range closely in a sautoir, put a buttered paper 
over, wet with white broth, cover, and cook an hour ; then drain on a 
cloth, cut in two, and shape a little ; pare the lamb in twelve oblong 
pieces ; butter a plain cylindrical entree-mould ; range the lettuce and 
lamb alternately in rows to the edge of the mould ; press down gently, 
cover, and put the mould to half its height in boiling water for half an 
hour to heat thoroughly ; invert on a dish, and drop the liquid that 
may come out ; mix two ounces of butter with the demi-glaze sauce, 
pour over and round the chartreuse, and serve. 

Broiled Summer Ducks, Shallot Sauce. — Take two summer 
ducks ; pare, singe, void, slit down the back, crack the main bones, 



COOKERY BOOK. 391 

flatten, season with salt and pepper, baste with oil, and broil slowly in 
a double gridiron, so as to keep the shape and the juice of the meat ; 
put on a dish, baste a little mellow butter over, and serve with a shallot 
sauce [No. 207] in a sauce-bowl. 

Orange Jelly in the Peel. — Cut inch-round holes in the stem- 
side of eight smooth oranges ; take the pulp out with a teaspoon, and 
steep the skins in cold water ; drain, and scrape the inside smoothly 
without injuring the peel ; range them on finely broken ice, and fill 
them with orange jelly [No. 121] ; cool thoroughly, divide in halves or 
quarters, range them symmetrically on a graduated china or crystal 
dish ; garnish with orange or imitation leaves, and serve. 



No. 235. 

Thursday, August 23. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Sago and tomato. 

Flounder a la Jules Janin ; 
Potatoes a la Chateaubriand. 



Baked sweetbreads with mushrooms ; 
Cauliflowers sautes a 1' Allemande. 

Sirloin of beef au cardinal ; 
Beet and lettuce salad. 



Sultana pudding au marasquin. 

Sago and Tomato Soup. — Boil two quarts of beef-broth in a 
saucepan ; stir, and let drop into it, rain-like, four ounces of sago ; boil 
twenty minutes, add a quart of tomato puree [No. 197], boil five 
minutes longer, skim, pour in a soup-tureen, and serve. 

Flounder a la Jules Janin. — Procure two medium-sized firm 
flounders ; scale, cleanse nicely, pare off the heads and fins, make a 
lengthwise incision on the back, cut the small bones along the spine, 
and remove the most of it ; fill with fish force-meat [No. 12] mixed 
with chopped mushrooms, shallots, and parsley ; turn the stuffed side 
on a buttered baking-dish, season with salt and pepper, wet with a gill 
of sherry-wine and oyster liquor ; put bits of butter on top, cover with 
a buttered paper, and baste often while cooking in a moderate oven 
for half an hour ; drain the liquid into a saucepan with half a pint of 
espagnole sauce, reduce to the desired consistency, add lemon-juice 
and two ounces of butter, and press through a napkin ; slide the 
flounders on a dish, range alternately a row of blanched oysters and 
heads of mushrooms on each fish, pour the sauce over, and serve. 

Baked Sweetbreads with Mushrooms.— Pare, steep in 



392 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

water fdr an hour, and parboil six sweetbreads ; cook in a sautoir with 
sliced vegetables, a bunch of parsley, and white broth ; drain, cool, and 
cut in thin, large collops ; overspread and cook half an inch thick of 
raw force-meat [No. 294] in a circle on an entree baking-dish ; range the 
colloped sweetbreads over alternately with large slices of mushrooms ; 
mask over with raw force-meat, smooth nicely, cover with well-reduced 
allemande sauce, sprinkle with fresh crumbs and a little grated parmesan 
cheese ; add small bits of butter, and bake light brown in a brisk 
oven ; fill the centre with a ragout of mushrooms and allemande sauce, 
and serve in the baking-dish. 

Sirloin of Beef au Cardinal. — Procure a good-sized piece of 
top sirloin of beef (the tenderloin may be taken off, but the flat bones 
must be left to keep the juice in the meat) ; cover the bones with the 
flap, truss and tie firmly, and roast for about an hour and a half, accord- 
ing to size ; salt, untruss, pare, and put on a dish ; surround with large, 
plain, peeled, and baked tomatoes, and small, round, peeled, and 
roasted potatoes, and serve with scraped horseradish in a saucer, and 
the skimmed drippings in a sauce-bowl. 

Sultana Pudding au Marasquin. — Pick half a pound of seed- 
less sultana raisins, put in a small saucepan with a half gill of maras- 
chino, cover, and let simmer until soft ; work in a basin eight egg- 
yolks with six ounces of sugar, dilute with a pint and a half of cream, 
and stir on the fire until the preparation thickens ; add an ounce and 
a half of gelatine steeped in cold water and well drained ; stir until 
melted, pass through a fine strainer, and add another half gill of maras- 
chino ; imbed an entremet-mould in ice, put half an inch of cream in 
the bottom, let congeal, add a layer of lady-fingers and part of the 
raisins ; mask with cream, and let congeal again, then put more lady- 
fingers, raisins, and cream, and so on until the mould is filled to the 
edge, finishing with cream ; cover with an inverted plate, put more ice 
over, cool thoroughly, invert on a dish, and serve. 



No. 236. 

Friday, August 24. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Bisque of crabs, Virginia style. 

Fried cod, Tartar sauce ; 
Potatoes sautees. 

Calf's liver a la bourgeoise ; 
Red cabbage a 1' Alsacienne. 



Roast chicken a la Bressoise ; 
Lettuce salad a la Parisienne. 

Green -apple tart a la Jersey. 



COOKERY BOOK. 393 

Bisque of Crabs, Virginia Style.— Boil a dozen large, live 
hard-shell crabs in salted water for five minutes (females are the best ; 
they are easily known by the pinky claws and large flap) ; drain, 
remove the large shell, but save the creamy part that sticks to it ; put 
this with the coral that is in the crab, pound fine with four ounces of 
butter and four egg-yolks, and rub through a sieve ; pare 6ff the flaps 
and gills, wash off the sand, and pound what is left of the crabs to a 
puree ; put a chopped onion in a saucepan with four ounces of butter, 
fry slightly, add a pound of steeped and pressed white of bread and 
the crab puree ; stir the whole to a paste, dilute gradually with half a 
pint of catawba wine and enough white broth ; add a bunch of parsley 
with aromatics, and boil half an hour ; rub forcibly through a fine 
hair-sieve, stir, and boil again ; add the prepared egg-yolks, white and 
a pinch of red pepper, and half a pint of boiling cream ; mix well 
without boiling, pour into a soup-tureen, and serve with small boiled 
oyster-crabs separately on a plate. 

Fried Codfish, Tartar Sauce. — Procure eight middle cuts of 
fresh cod, the whole weighing about four pounds; shape them in round 
pieces by trussing with short skewers, season with salt and pepper, 
sprinkle with flour, dip in beaten eggs, bread them with fresh crumbs, 
and fry them pretty crisp and well ; drain on a cloth, salt a little, 
range on a folded napkin, surround with quartered lemons, and serve 
with a tartar sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Calf's Liver a la Bourgeoise. — Choose a light-pink, firm calf's 
liver ; cut half-inch square, long shreds of fat pork ; season with salt, 
pepper, allspice, and chopped parsley ; with a larding-needle fasten 
them lengthwise through the liver and inside ; put it in a saucepan 
with four ounces of butter, and fry light brown on both sides ; take the 
liver out, put in an ounce of flour, dilute with half a pint of white wine 
and a quart of light broth, stir, and set to boil ; return the liver, add a 
bunch of parsley with aromatics, white pepper, and about a quart of 
quartered carrots cut in inch-and-a-half lengths and slightly trimmed ; 
cover, and let simmer an hour; add a few medium-sized onions browned 
in butter, and boil an hour longer ; remove the parsley, strain, free the 
gravy of its fat, stir, and reduce to a demi-glaze sauce ; dish up the 
liver, surround with the carrots and onions, pour the sauce over, and 
serve. 

Roast Chicken a la BreSSOise. — Singe, draw, and dress two 
fat spring chickens ; cover the breast with bardes of fat pork, and 
roast well and of a nice color ; untruss and dish them up ; put a hand- 
ful of water-cress on each end, and serve with a bressoise sauce in a 
sauce-bowl. 



394 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

BreSSOise Sauce. — Chop a shallot and the chicken livers, put 
them in a saucepan with the fat of the drippings ; fry light brown, add 
the rest of the drippings, and a little butter and broth if necessary, a 
handful of rasped crumbs, and the sliced pulp of an orange freed from 
seeds ; stir, and boil five minutes, and rub through a small sieve. 

Green-Apple Tart a la Jersey. — Prepare and bake a tart-crust 
as directed [No. 156] ; cut in halves and pare eight large green apples, 
remove the cores, rub with half a lemon, cook in syrup, and drain on a 
sieve ; spread a layer of well-reduced apple sauce in the crust, range 
the apples over, reduce the syrup with a small glass of cider-brandy, 
cool partially, pour it over the apples, and serve cold. 



No. 237. 

Saturday, August 25. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Calf's head a la Brighton. 

Fried clams in batter ; 
Saratoga potatoes. 

Stewed duck, Irisli style ; 
Fried oyster-plant. 

Lamb chops a la Bearnaise ; 
Chiccory salad a la Gasconne. 

Bread-and-butter pudding. 

Calf's Head S, la Brighton. — Singe the remaining hairs from a 
white calf's head, bone, steep in water for two hours, and parboil ; put 
in a saucepan with salted and acidulated water whitened with two 
ounces of flour, a bunch of parsley with aromatics, a quartered carrot, 
and an onion with four cloves stuck in it ; boil and cook slowly until 
soft, drain on a cloth, pare off the fat, and press between two tin sheets 
until cold ; prepare three quarts of veal-broth [No. 298] ; thicken with 
three ounces of flour cooked in butter ; add sprays of parsley, aromat- 
ics, pepper-corns, a leek, and a stalk of celery, and boil an hour ; cut 
the head in inch-rounds or squares, put in a saucepan with half a pint 
of pale sherry and a pinch of red pepper ; boil a little, strain the pre- 
pared soup over ; boil a little longer, skim, add a pint of small veal 
sausage-meat balls fried in butter ; pour all into a soup-tureen, add 
slices of pared and sliced lemon, and serve. 

Fried Clams in Batter. — Procure four dozen medium-sized 
Little Neck clams and drain in a colander ; put in a large bowl two eggs, 
a handful of flour, white and a pinch of red pepper, a little milk and 
melted butter ; work well, add the clams, mix carefully, and drop them 



COOKERY BOOK. 395 

one by one in plenty of very clear, hot fat ; fry light brown and crisp, 
drain on a cloth, salt a little, dish up on a folded napkin, put fried 
parsley atop and quartered lemons around, and serve. 

Stewed Duck, Irish Style. — Singe, draw, and divide two spring 
ducks, each duck in eight pieces ; pare nicely, season with salt and 
pepper, and range in a sautoir with four ounces of melted butter ; fry 
light brown on both sides, add a sliced onion, and four ounces of raw 
ham cut in small squares ; fry a little longer, sprinkle with an ounce 
and a half of flour ; fry again, dilute with a gill of port wine and a pint 
and a half of broth, and add a bunch of parsley with aromatics ; cover 
and cook forty minutes, remove the parsley, dish up in a potato-bor- 
der ; skim the fat, pour the sauce over the ducks, and serve. 

Potato-Border. — Boil about a dozen large mealy potatoes, drain 
the water, dry a little ; add salt, pepper, nutmeg, and four ounces of 
butter ; mix and rub through a coarse wire-sieve ; return to a sauce- 
pan, add four egg-yolks, and stir on the fire until the potatoes no longer 
stick to the saucepan ; butter and bread-crumb a plain, round-edged 
border-mould, roll beaten eggs inside, drain, bread-crumb again, and 
fill with the potato puree a little above the ^digQ ; press down gently, 
baste with melted butter, put on a baking-dish, bake twenty minutes, 
and let rest a while ; with a knife pare off what is above the mould, 
baste with beaten eggs, and invert on a very hot entree-dish so that the 
preparation may firmly adhere to the dish and the sauce not trickle 
under the base. 

Lamb Chops a la Bearnaise. — Choose eight large, fat-covered 
lamb chops ; flatten, pare nicely, season with salt and pepper, dip in 
melted butter, roll in fresh crumbs, broil of a nice color, and well ; dish 
up in a circle alternately with chop-shaped slices of bread fried in but- 
ter, pour a bearnaise sauce in the centre, add paper ruffles to the bones, 
and serve. 

Bread-and-Butter Pudding. — Cut a loaf of french bread in thin 
slices, butter and mix them in a pudding-dish with four ounces of 
picked raisins and two ounces of citron cut in fine shreds ; boil a pint 
and a half of milk with six ounces of sugar, take off the fire ; beat six 
eggs with a little finely chopped lemon rind, dilute with the milk, strain 
over the bread, let soak ten minutes, bake light brown for half an hour, 
and serve hot 



396 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Xo. 238. 

Sunday, August 26. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Rice, a la Sultane. 

Boiled sheep's-head, mussel sauce ; 
Potato croquettes. 

Chicken saute, Paschaline; 
String-beans, maitre d' hotel. 

Roast fillet of beef, California sauce ; 
Vegetable salad. 

Pear ice-cream. 

Rice, ^ la Sultane. — Cut in pieces a knuckle of veal and the 
scrag end of a fresh rack of mutton ; put these in a saucepan with 
slices of ham, a fowl, a little salt, and cold water to cover ; set to boil, 
scum, add a quartered carrot, an onion with three cloves stuck in it, a 
bunch of parsley, soup-celery, and two leeks tied together ; cover par- 
tially and boil slowly for three hours, taking up the fowl before, if it is 
done ; pass the broth through a wet napkin, and if there is too much, 
boil down to about three quarts ; wash well, and boil four ounces of 
rice with a quart of broth for twenty minutes ; take the white meat off 
the fowl and cut in small squares, pick three ounces of sultana 
raisins and steep them in hot water until soft, drain and put them with 
the chicken and rice in the remaining broth ; add a small infusion 
made with the fifth of an ounce of hay saffron, boil five minutes, 
finish with a liaison of four egg-yolks, a cup of cream, and a pinch of 
red pepper ; mix well without boiling, pour into a soup-tureen, and 
serve. 

Boiled Sheep's-Head, Mussel Sauce. — Choose a thick medium- 
sized sheep's-head ; scale, pare off the fins, and truss nicely ; place in 
a fish-boiler with salted and acidulated water, a bunch of parsley with 
aromatics and a sliced onion, cover with a sheet of paper, and boil 
slowly for forty minutes ; drain and slide on a folded napkin, surround 
with parsley, and serve with a mussel sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Mussel Sauce. — Pare off the heavy tuft, wash well, and cook two 
quarts of mussels with a little water in a covered saucepan ; pick them 
out and mix with a well-buttered hollandaise sauce [No. 98]. 

Chicken Saute, Paschaline. — Singe, draw, and divide two spring 
chickens as for fricassee ; pare, season with salt and pepper, range in 
a sautoir with melted butter, cover and fry slowly on both sides ; drain 
off most of the butter, sprinkle a handful of chopped mushrooms, and 
fry a little longer ; add two glasses of white wine, a gill of broth, and a 
pint of veloute sauce ; cover and boil twenty minutes ; dish up in 



COOKERY BOOK. ic^'j 

pyramidal form, making the pinion and stump-bones protrude a little ; 
add lemon-juice, chopped parsley, and four ounces of butter to the 
sauce ; pour this over the chicken, surround with stuffed eggs prepared 
as directed [No. 90], add small paper ruffles to the bones, and serve. 

Roast Fillet of Beef, California Sauce. — Secure a white- 
fatted, short fillet of beef ; pare, fasten fine shreds of fat pork on the 
pared side, and roast as directed [No. 217] ; untruss, place on a dish, 
pour a California sauce round the beef, and serve more of the same 
sauce in a bowl. 

California Sauce. — Put a sliced shallot, thin slices of raw ham, 
a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, and a few pepper-corns in a saucepan 
with an ounce of butter ; fry slightly, add a pint of sparkling Cali- 
fornia wine and a pint of espagnole sauce ; boil ten minutes, skim, 
reduce to the desired consistency, and press through a napkin. 

Pear Ice-Cream. — Remove the cores and rub through a hair- 
sieve enough ripe well-flavored pears to make a pint of puree ; add 
twelve ounces of powdered sugar, and a few drops of vanilla-extract ; 
mix with a quart of raw, fresh cream, put in a sorbetiere (freezer) 
and freeze in the ordinary way ; then transfer to a pear or melon- 
shaped ice-cream mould, imbed in salted ice for at least two hours, and 
serve on a folded napkin. 

Four tablespoonfuls of pear puree and a liqueur-glass of maraschino 
mixed with an equal quantity of well-whipt, sweetened cream, and 
spread over the form of ice-cream, improve the dish a good deal. 

This sauce made with the fruit used, may be served with all sorts 
of fruit ice-creams. 



No. 239. 

Monday, August 27. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Puree of turnips 4 la Savoisienne. 

Broiled tunny, sauce Robert ; 
Lyonnaise potatoes. 

Minced fillet of beef i la Richmond ; 
Stewed beets, American style. 

Roast breast of veal ; 
Lettuce salad. 



Trifle k la Victoria. 



Pur6e of Turnips ^ la Savoisienne. — Pare about three quarts 
of turnips ; slice, put in a saucepan with an ounce of powdered sugar 
and four ounces of melted butter ; stir on a brisk fire and fry light- 
brown ; put in three ounces of flour, mix well ; add a quart of bruised 



398 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

raw tomatoes, a bunch of parsley with aromatics, pepper, and two 
quarts of broth ; stir to a boil, cover, and let simmer an hour ; remove 
the parsley, rub through a fine sieve, return to a saucepan, and boil 
again ; skim, finish with four ounces of butter, mix well, pour into a 
soup-tureen, and serve with short pieces of grisini-bread separately on 
a plate. 

Broiled Tunny, Sauce Robert. — Procure eight even-sized mid- 
dle cuts from a tunny (or horse-mackerel, as it is commonly called) ; 
put them on a dish with salt, pepper, sweet oil, sliced onion, two bay- 
leaves, sprigs of thyme, and sprays of parsley to marinate for an hour ; 
roll in bread-crumbs, place on a heated and oiled gridiron, and broil 
slowly for half an hour, basting occasionally with sweet oil ; range on 
a dish, surround with quartered lemons and parsley-leaves, and serve 
with a robert sauce [No. 355] in a sauce-bowl. 

Minced Fillet of Beef a la Richmond. — This assumes that 
there is enough cold fillet of beef left over from the previous dinner ; 
chop two shallots, put them in a saucepan with two ounces of butter, 
fry a little, add a gill of catawba wine and a pint of espagnole sauce, 
and boil ten minutes ; cut cold roast fillet of beef in large, thin slices ; 
season with salt and pepper, dip in the sauce, range in a circle on an 
entree dish ; fill the centre with boiled, peeled, and sliced, small, sweet 
potatoes ; pour the sauce over all, sprinkle with rasped crust of bread, 
add small bits of butter on top, and bake light brown in a brisk 
oven ; press lemon-juice over the meat, and serve in the baking-dish. 

Roast Breast of Veal. — Choose a fat, thick, and white breast of 
veal ; remove the rib and red breast-bones, flatten, pare a little, salt, 
truss firmly, and put in a buttered oval, deep, roasting-pan ; baste 
with melted butter, cover with a thick buttered paper, add a gill of 
water, and roast in a moderate oven for about two hours, basting occa- 
sionally, and keeping some liquid in the pan ; drain, untruss, pare, and 
dish up the veal ; strain, skim, and reduce the gravy with a ladleful of 
espagnole to the consistency of a demi-glaze sauce ; pour this over the 
veal, and serve. 

Trifle ^ la Victoria. — Cut half-inch slices of genoese cake [No. 
31] ; place them in a deep sweetmeat-dish, range a layer of almond- 
macaroons over, add a half pint of madeira wine and steep half an 
hour ; prepare a cream with eight egg-yolks, three gills of milk, an 
ounce of arrowroot (or corn-starch), four ounces of sugar, and eight 
drops of lemon-oil ; stir and thicken on the fire, press through a napkin, 
and stir again while cooling ; spread this cream over the macaroons, let 
rest a while, add a layer of thick apple or peach marmalade ; then 



COOKERY BOOK 399 

cover to the edge with well-whipt cream, sweetened and lemon-flavored ; 
ornament the surface with rose-tinted whipt cream, pressed gently 
through a paper funnel, with a fourth-of-an-inch opening in the small 
end, and serve. 

No. 240. 

Tuesday, August 28. — Bill of fare for eight persons. 
Soup : Vermicelli and sorrel. 

Carp k la Coblentz ; 
Mashed potatoes. 

Chartreuse of pigeon a la Rouennaise ; 
Green peas k la Parisienne. 

Beefsteaks a la Veron ; 
Chiccory salad. 

Egg and peach pudding. 

Vermicelli and Sorrel Soup. — Boil six ounces of large white 
vermicelli in two quarts of chicken-broth [No. 310] for twenty minutes ; 
pick and wash some sorrel leaves, cut in fine shreds, put in a saucepan 
with two ounces of butter, stir, and boil five minutes; wet with a quart of 
chicken-broth, boil a minute, and mix with the vermicelli ; boil again, 
finish with a liaison of four egg-yolks, two ounces of butter in small 
bits, a cup of cream, white pepper, and nutmeg ; mix well without 
boiling, pour into a soup-tureen, and serve. 

Carp a la Coblentz. — Procure four pounds of North River carp ; 
scale, pare off the fins, cleanse well, cut each fish in two or three pieces; 
put in a saucepan with half a pint of rhine wine, a pint of veloute sauce, 
salt, pepper, a bunch of parsley with aromatics, and two handfuls of 
sliced mushrooms ; cut, julienne-like, two carrots and two onions, par- 
boil fifteen minutes, drain, and put with the carp ; cover, and boil 
slowly half an hour ; dish up the fish with a skimmer, remove the pars- 
ley, and surround with the garnishing ; reduce the sauce to the desired 
consistency; add four ounces of butter, lemon-juice, and chopped 
parsley ; pour this over the fish, add heart-shaped slices of bread fried 
in butter, and serve. 

Chartreuse of Pigeon £l la Rouennaise. — Cut and cook sep- 
arately thin half-inch rounds of carrots and white turnips, drain on a 
cloth ; butter a plain border-mould, line symmetrically with alternate 
rows of carrot and turnip to the edge ; quarter two savoy cabbages, 
parboil in salted water, cool, press the water out, pare off the larger 
ribs ; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and cook in a saucepan with 
half a pound of salt pork, half a pound of sausages, and a bunch of pars- 



400 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

ley ; cover with unskimmed broth from the stock-pot, put the lid on, and 
cook slowly for two hours ; turn in a colander, remove the parsley, 
take up the sausages and pork, and press the liquid out of the cabbage; 
fill the border, press down a little, and keep hot in a sautoir with boil- 
ing water to half its height ; singe, draw, and truss four young pigeons; 
put them in a saucepan with two ounces of butter, fry light brown, 
drain the butter off ; wet with a glass of white wine, a gill of broth, and 
half a pint of espagnole sauce ; cover, cook slowly, and divide in halves; 
turn the border on a dish, let stand a while ; drain off the liquid, remove 
the mould, fill the centre with more cabbage, garnish with sliced 
sausages and pork, range the pigeons thereon, reduce, the sauce, add 
two ounces of butter, pour it over the pigeons, and serve, 

Beefsteaks a la Veron. — Take four large, inch-and-a-half-thick 
middle-cut tenderloin steaks ; pare and flatten a little ; with a sharp- 
pointed knife make a small hole in the side, and cut a deep incision in 
the middle, nearly the width of the steak ; blanch slightly, drain, cool, 
and slice half a pound of hard beef-marrow ; season with salt and pep- 
per, and put in the steaks through the hole ; press slightly, salt a little, 
baste with oil, and broil for about fifteen minutes on an obliquely 
set gridiron, the opening in the steak pointing slightly upward ; 
range on an oval dish ; pour a shallot sauce [No. 207] over, add 
chopped parsley and lemon-juice, and serve. 

Egg and Peach Pudding". — Prepare a quart of bavarois cream 
with peaches [No. 213] ; beat three egg-whites to a hard froth, add 
two ounces of powdered sugar, mix, and drop by large teaspoonfuls in 
boiling sweetened milk ; cook, and drain on a sieve ; cut six ounces 
of preserved or blanched peaches in small squares ; imbed a jelly-mould 
in ice, put half an inch thick of cream on the bottom, let congeal, add 
a layer of egg and peaches, cover with cream, press again, and so on 
until the mould is filled, finishing with cream ; cover with broken ice, 
cool thoroughly, and serve on a folded napkin. 



No. 241. 

Wednesday, August 29. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Chicken, a la St. George. 

Fillets of mackerel i la Horly ; 
Fried puff potatoes. 

Buffalo tongues a la St. Louis ; 
Baked cauliflowers. 

Roast squab a la Prince Albert ; 
Tomato and escarolle salad. 



Vermicelli cake a la vanille. 



COOKERY BOOK. 401 

Chicken, sL la St. George. — Take the fillets of a large tender 
fowl ; pare, cut in thin collops, put in a small buttered sautoir with salt 
and pepper, cover with a buttered paper, and reserve till wanted ; take 
the remnant of the meat, pare off the sinews, chop very fine with half 
the quantity of veal-suet or butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and two egg- 
yolks ; make small filbert-sized round balls, roll in flour, and fry them 
slightly in clarified butter ; wash and parboil four ounces of barley, 
cool, drain, and then cook in a quart of chicken-broth [No. 310] for 
two hours ; thicken five pints of chicken-broth with two ounces of 
flour cooked in butter ; add a small bunch of parsley, a leek, and a 
stalk of celery ; boil half an hour, and press through a napkin into an- 
other saucepan ; cook the collops by simmering five minutes on a slow 
fire, put them with the barley ; put a liaison of four egg-yolks, a gill of 
cream, and two ounces of butter in the soup ; mix well without boiling, 
pour into a soup-tureen, add the small chicken-balls, barley, and col- 
loped chicken, and serve. 

Fillets of Mackerel a la Horly. — Take the fillets of four 
medium-sized mackerel ; pare off the skin and bones, put on a plate 
with salt, pepper, oil, lemon-juice, a sliced onion, parsley, and aro- 
matics ; let pickle an hour ; drain, roll in flour, dip in beaten eggs, roll 
in fresh crumbs, smooth nicely, turn the fillets the shape of a ring, put 
on small skewers, and fry in plenty of very hot fat ; drain, dish up on 
a folded napkin, surround with quartered lemons, and serve with a 
tomato sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Buffalo Tongues a la St. Louis. — Procure two smoked buf- 
falo tongues ; steep overnight in cold water, then cook in simmering 
water till tender ; drain, pare off the skin and gristle, split in halves, 
put in a sautoir v/ith demi-glaze sauce and a glass of catawba wine, and 
let simmer fifteen minutes , prepare a consistent and well-seasoned 
puree of red beans, put on a dish, place the tongues over the puree, 
surround with a circle of small, quartered red beets, pour the demi- 
glaze sauce over the tongues, and serve. 

Roast Squab a la Prince Albert. — Select four fat squab ; 
pare, singe, void, put the liver inside again (squab have no gall-bladder) 
with salt and pepper ; truss nicely, cover the breast with thin bardes 
of fat pork, and roast them for twenty minutes ; dish on small pieces 
of buttered toast, strain the drippings over, put a handful of water-cress 
on each end of the dish, and serve with an albert sauce [No. 225] in a 
sauce-bowl. 

Vermicelli Cake "k la Vanille.— Boil three pints of cream with 
four ounces of sugar ; put in twelve ounces of large vermicelli, stir to 



402 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

a boil, add a vanilla-bean, cover, and cook very slowly for half an 
hour ; take off the fire, remove the vanilla, and mix with four beaten 
eggs and four ounces of butter ; butter and bread-crumb a plain char- 
lotte-mould, in this way : roll beaten eggs all over the inside, drain the 
eggs, and bread-crumb again ; fill the mould, sprinkle more crumbs over, 
add small bits of butter, and bake in a moderate oven for forty minutes ; 
turn on a dish, and let stand a while with the mould on, then remove it ; 
sprinkle with powdered sugar, pour a vanilla sauce around, and serve 
with more sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Vanilla Sauce. — Put four egg-yolks in a saucepan with four 
ounces of sugar and short pieces of vanilla-bean ; mix well, dilute with 
a pint of milk, stir on the fire until the sauce thickens, press through a 
napkin, stir again, and use. 



No. 242. 

Thursday, August 30. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Nouille au consomme. 

Striped bass a la maitre d' hotel ; 
French fried potatoes. 

Lamb-trotters, curry sauce ; 
Eggs a la Creole. 

Roast ham a 1' Alsacienne ; 
String-bean salad. 

Lemon jelly a la Sevillane. 

Nouille au Consomme. — Prepare twelve ounces of nouille-paste 
[No. 53] ; roll very thin on a floured table, and cut in five two-inch- 
long shreds ; boil five minutes in plenty of salted water, drain, and put 
in a saucepan with three quarts of rich consomme [No. 133] ; boil five 
minutes, pour into a soup-tureen, and serve with grated parmesan 
cheese separately on a plate. 

Striped Bass a la Maitre d' Hotel. — Procure a four-pound 
striped bass ; scrape well (dealers always leave more or less scales round 
the fins and shoulders and these are very unpleasant on broiled fish) ; pare 
off the fins, wash well, slit down the back, remove the spine, wipe dry, put 
on a dish with salt, pepper, and oil , half an hour before serving place in a 
heated and oiled double gridiron, and broil briskly and to a nice color 
on both sides ; slide on a dish, the inside uppermost, spread a mellow 
maitre d' hotel sauce over, surround with quartered lemon, and serve. 

Lamb-Trotters, Curry Sauce. — Take a dozen scalded, white 
Iamb-trotters ; singe off the remaining hairs, tie in three bunches, and 
cook as directed for sheep-trotters [No. 199] ; drain on a cloth, remove 



COOKERY BOOK. 



403 



the hairy tuft and shank-bone, pare both ends ; put in a saucepan with 
a pint of curry sauce and mix carefully ; invert a border of plain boiled 
rice [No. 169] on a dish ; range the trotters and sauce in the centre, 
and serve. 

Curry Sauce. — Chop an onion, put it in a saucepan with two 
ounces of butter, a small bunch of parsley, and an ounce of chipped 
raw ham ; stir on a slow fire until the onion is soft, sprinkle with two 
ounces of flour and a tablespoonful of curry-powder, mix well ; dilute 
with a pint and a half of white broth, boil fifteen minutes, press through 
a fine strainer, boil again, finish with a liaison of two egg-yolks and two 
ounces of butter, mix well without boiling. 

Eggs a la Creole. — Have some boiling-hot oil in a small egg- 
pan ; break separately eight or more fresh-laid eggs and fry them, one 
at a time, light brown on both sides, and soft in the centre ; drain on a 
cloth, salt, dish up in a circle alternately with egg-shaped slices of 
bread fried in oil ; pour a creole sauce [No. 116] in the centre, sprinkle 
chopped parsley over, and serve. 

Roast Ham a 1' Alsacienne. — Steep overnight in cold water, 
pare and roast a ham as directed [No. 49] ; remove the rind, sprinkle 
with rasped crust of bread and powdered sugar, and glaze to a nice 
color ; place on a dish, surround with stewed red cabbage [No. 193}, 
add a white-paper ruffle to the hock-bone, and serve with a sauce-bowl 
of espagnole sauce well reduced with a tablespoonful of beef-extract 
and a gill of good rhine wine. 

Lemon Jelly a la Sevillane. — Choose eight large, smooth, and 
juicy lemons ; cut an inch-round hole on the stem side, remove the 
pulp, and prepare as directed for oranges [No. 234] ; place them on 
broken ice and fill them partially with lemon jelly [No. 2] ; let con- 
geal, then fill to the opening with cream jelly [No. 201] ; let cool 
thoroughly, cut in quarters, and range symmetrically on a crystal or china 
graduated dish, with green citron, orange, or imitation leaves. 



No. 243. 

Friday, August 31, — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Pike, i la Champlain. 

Fried fillets of kingfish a 1' Italienne ; 
Potatoes a la Navarraise. 

Leg of lamb with lettuce ; 
Boiled onions au veloute. 

Reed-bird pie, Pilhiviers style ; 
Lettuce and sweet-pepper salad. 

Pear tart au marasquin. 



404 FRA NCO-A ME RICA N 

Pike Soup el la Champlain.— Prepare three quarts of fish-broth 
[No. 327] ; thicken with three quarts of flour cooked in butter, add 
some mussel Hquor, half a pint of catawba wine, a garnished bunch of 
parsley, and a pinch of red pepper ; boil an hour ; take and pare the 
fillets of a two-pound fresh-water pike ; put the parings and bones in 
the soup ; chop the meat very fine, rub through a wire sieve, pound with 
half the quantity each of fresh bread-crumbs and butter ; add salt, pep- 
per, nutmeg, chopped paisley, and two egg-yolks ; mix well, turn on a 
floured table, make small round balls, dip in beaten egg-whites, roll in 
rice flour or yellow meal, and fry slightly in butter ; remove the pars- 
ley, skim, and finish the soup with a liaison of four egg-yolks, four 
ounces of butter in small bits, and a cup of cream ; mix well, strain 
into a soup-tureen, add the small balls, a pint of mussels, and serve 
with small round outer crusts of bread fried in butter separately 
on a plate. 

Fried Fillets of Kingfish ^ 1' Italienne.— Take the fillets of 
four kingfish ; pare off the skin and bones, season with salt and pep- 
per, fold in two, flatten slightly, and cook till firm in a sautoir with 
melted butter and lemon-juice ; drain, and press slightly between two 
tin sheets until cold ; then dip in a light flour batter [No. 5], and fry 
crisp in plenty of clear, hot fat ; drain on a cloth, salt, dish up on a 
folded napkin, put fried parsley atop, surround with quartered lemon, 
and serve with an italian sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Leg of Lamb with Lettuce. — Take a leg of lamb ; pare off the 
hip-bone and superfluous fat, trim the handle, truss firmly, put in a 
saucepan with two ounces of butter and fry light brown all round ; 
drain off the butter, wet with half a pint of white wine, white broth, 
and half a pint of espagnole sauce ; add a bunch of parsley with aro- 
matics and an onion with three cloves stuck in it ; cover and let sim- 
mer an hour and a half ; drain the lamb, skim the fat ; strain and re- 
duce the gravy to a demi-glaze sauce ; place the lamb on a dish, 
surround with braised lettuce [No. 266], pour the sauce over, add a 
paper ruffle to the bone, and serve. 

Reed-Bird Pie, Pithiviers Style. — Prepare a short-paste with a 
pound and a half of flour [No. 351]; also the same quantity of fine sausage- 
meat [No. 223] ; pick, void, and pare off the heads, pinions, and legs 
of eighteen fat reed birds ; with a rolling-pin flatten half of the paste 
in an oblong shape, about twelve inches by nine, and place it on a but- 
tered baking-sheet ; spread a layer of sausage-meat two inches from 
the edge on each side ; range the birds in two rows, put the rest of the 
meat over them in a dome form, cover with thin bardes of fat pork. 



COOKERY BOOK. 405 

and put a bay-leaf atop ; raise the edge squarely against the meat and 
wet the outside ; flatten and place a similar flat of paste over the whole, 
press gently against the base to make the two flats adhere, pinch the 
paste regularly all over with a pastry-pincher, egg the surface, make an 
inch-round hole in the centre, and bake to a nice color in a moderate 
oven for about an hour and a quarter ; cool partially, fill with meat 
jelly, close the hole with a piece of paste, and serve thoroughly cold on 
the following day. 

If preserved truffles can be had, half a pint placed with the birds 
improves this excellent pie. 

Pear Tart au Marasquin. — Proceed exactly as directed [No. 
209], but use halved or quartered pears cooked in syrup instead of 
peaches, and reduce the syrup with half a gill of maraschino liqueur. 



No. 244. 

Saturday, September i. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Ox-cheek, a la Nelson. 

Broiled black-fish, chilli sauce ; 
Boiled potatoes. 

Veal steaks a la Genoise ; 
Fried sweet potatoes. 

Salmi of duck a la Castillane ; 
Chiccory salad. 

Souffle of rice. 

Ox-Cheek, ^ la Nelson. — Procure two fresh ox-cheeks, steep 
them in cold water for an hour, wash well ; put in a soup-pot with a 
knuckle of veal, two pounds of soup-beef, salt, and a piece of ham ; 
cover with cold water, boil slowly, and scum well ; add a bunch of 
parsley with aromatics, an onion with three cloves in it, pepper-corns, 
a stalk of celery, and a quartered carrot and turnip ; cover partially, 
and let simmer three hours ; take up the cheeks, add a little water, and 
boil two hours longer ; press the cheeks between two tin sheets with a 
weight on top until cold ; cut some carrots and turnips in half-inch 
squares, and cook them separately in a little white broth, salt, sugar, 
and butter ; peel a dozen small white onions, put them in a sautoir 
with an ounce of melted butter and a little sugar, and fry slowly until 
soft and light brown ; pare and cut the cheeks in half-inch squares, put 
them in a saucepan with the carrots, turnips, and drained onions ; skim 
the fat and strain three quarts of the broth over, add a gill of madeira 
wine, and a few drops of caramel, boil a few minutes, skim again, taste, 
pour into a soup-tureen, and serve. 



4o6 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Broiled Black-Fish, Chilli Sauce. — Take four pounds of me- 
dium-sized black-fish ; pare, scale well, wash, and wipe dry ; cut 
slight incisions on each side, season with salt and pepper, baste with 
oil, and broil slowly for half an hour ; slide on a dish, pour a chilli 
sauce over, and serve. 

Chilli Sauce. — Chop a shallot and two chillies (guinea pepper- 
pod) ; put them in a saucepan with an ounce of butter, and fry 
slightly ; add two raw peeled and seedless tomatoes cut fine, two pared 
and sliced green limes, a glass of catawba wine, and half a pint of 
velout^ sauce ; stir and reduce to the consistency of a sauce, and finish 
with two ounces of butter and chopped parsley ; boil no longer. 

Veal Steaks ^ la Genoise. — Cut four pounds of tender noix of 
veal in eight steaks ; flatten well, pare a little, season with salt and 
pepper, place in a sautoir with two ounces of butter and two ounces of 
oil, and fry briskly and light brown on both sides ; drain part of the 
fat off, add a chopped onion, half a pint of sliced mushrooms, and a 
bunch of parsley ; fry a little longer, wet with a gill of marsala wine, 
a little broth, and a pint of thick gravy and tomato sauce in equal 
parts ; cover and let simmer twenty minutes ; range the veal on a dish, 
put a row of raviolis a la genoise [No. 324] around ; remove the parsley, 
press the juice of a lemon in the sauce, pour it over the meat, and serve. 

Salmi of Duck a la Castillane. — Singe and draw two spring 
ducks ; pare, season, cut, and put the livers inside again with a 
chopped shallot ; truss and roast the ducks rare ; divide on a plate, 
pare the pieces, season with salt and pepper, and keep hot in a covered 
dish ; take the rind of two sour oranges cut in shreds, blanch and 
drain them on a sieve ; put the bones and duck parings in a saucepan 
with a pint of espagnole sauce, aromatics, two glasses of sherry wine, 
and a little broth ; boil fifteen minutes, strain, reduce to the desired 
consistency, and finish with orange-juice and the blanched shreds ; stir 
the ducks in this sauce without boiling, dish up, pour the sauce over, 
surround with heart-shaped slices of bread fried in butter, range slices 
of orange on the edge, and serve. 

Souffle of Rice. — Wash well six ounces of rice ; put it in a sauce- 
pan with a quart of boiling milk, half a pound of sugar, and the thinly 
pared rind of a lemon tied up with a string ; stir to a boil, cover, and 
let simmer forty minutes ; take it off the fire, remove the lemon, stir, 
and add gradually six egg-yolks ; beat the six egg-whites to a hard 
froth, mix with the rice, pour into a slightly buttered deep baking-dish, 
and bake twenty minutes in a moderate oven ; sprinkle with powdered 
sugar, and serve immediately. 



COOKERY BOOK. 40; 

No. 245. 

Sunday, September 2. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Pigeon, Belgian style. 

Cod's-head and shoulders, clam sauce ; 
Potatoes a la HoUandaise. 



Timbale of chicken a la Toulouse ; 
Macedoine of vecetables. 



Roast fillet of beef a la Vernon ; 
Romaine salad. 



Moscowite of pears. 

Pigeon Soup, Belgian Style. — Take three tender pigeons ; singe, 
draw, cut in small pieces, put them in a saucepan with two slices of 
ham ; stir on the fire, fry light brown, sprinkle with three ounces of 
flour, fry a little longer, dilute with three quarts of chicken-broth [No. 
310], color slightly with a little caramel, add a bunch of parsley with 
aromatics, two leeks, and a stalk of celery tied together, and boil until 
the pigeon is cooked ; with the aid of a skimmer transfer the pigeon to 
another saucepan ; press the liquid through a napkin over the pigeon, 
add two glasses of sherry wine, a pinch of red pepper, a pint of carrots 
cut in small half-inch-across, round pieces ; boil a few minutes, skim, 
pour in a soup-tureen, add half a pint of small plain-boiled green peas, 
and serve. 

Cod's-Head and Shoulders, Clam Sauce. — Take the fore- 
half of a large, very fresh cod ; wash and truss nicely, place on the leaf 
in a fish-kettle, covering an inch with salted and acidulated cold water, 
put a sheet of paper over, and set on the fire ; when the water simmers 
move the kettle aside and let simmer half an hour ; drain the fish care- 
fully, dish up on a folded napkin surrounded with parsley-leaves, and 
serve with a large bowl of clam sauce. 

Clam Sauce. — Boil a quart of fresh-opened, small Little Neck 
clams with half a pint of water and an ounce of butter for five minutes ; 
knead in a saucepan two ounces of butter with an ounce of flour, white 
pepper, and nutmeg ; dilute with a pint of boiling water and clam 
liquor in equal parts ; stir with an egg-beater, boil a minute, add a 
liaison of two egg-yolks and lemon-juice, and press through a napkin, 
finish with four ounces of table butter in small bits, and mix well ; drain 
the clams, put them in the sauce, and serve. 

Timbale of Chicken a la Toulouse. — Prepare a pound and a 
half of raw chicken force-meat [No. 294] ; butter a plain timbale- 
mould, place a round buttered paper on the bottom ; ornament the 
sides and bottom symmetrically with fancy cuts of red beef-tongue and 



408 FRA NCO-A ME RICA N 

black truffles, then line carefully with about three fourths of an inch of 
force-meat ; fill the hollow to within half an inch of the top with a very 
consistent ragout of colloped chicken a la toulouse [No. 343] ; cover to 
the top with a layer of force-meat, make it stick to the edge, cover with 
a round buttered paper and the lid of the mould, make fast with a 
string, place in a saucepan with boiling water to half the height of the 
mould, cover the saucepan, and let simmer gently for two hours ; at 
serving-time remove the cover and paper, invert the mould on a dish, 
let stand ten minutes, take off the mould, pour a little of allemande 
sauce round the timbale, and serve. 

Roast Fillet of Beef a la Vernon. — Prepare a fillet of beef, 
fasten rows of salt pork on the pared»side and marinate as directed [No. 
231] ; make a poivrade sauce with the skimmed drippings, a little broth, 
two glasses of madeira wine, an ounce of prepared cacao, and two 
ounces of currant jelly ; boil a while, press through a napkin, and finish 
with two ounces of picked and steeped sultana raisins • pare and dish 
up the fillet, pour some of the sauce around, and serve with the rest in 
a sauce-bowl. 

Moscowite of Pears. — Pare, core, and rub enough well-flavored, 
ripe table pears through a hair-sieve to make a pint and a half of pulp ; 
add ten ounces of powdered sugar, and proceed exactly as directed [No. 
203] for peaches ; mould, and serve on a folded napkin. 



No. S46. 

Monday, September 3. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Veal and tomato, with rice. 

Fried oysters ; 
Saratoga potatoes. 

Minced fillet of beef a la Fontenelle ; 
Green-corn fritters. 

Leg of mutton a la Piemontaise; 
Lettuce and egg salad. 

Apple tart a la Saxonne. 

Veal and Tomato, with Rice. — Pare off the bones and cut 
two pounds of breast of veal in small pieces ; put it in a saucepan 
with two ounces of butter and an onion cut small ; stir, and fry light 
brown ; drain the butter off, wet with three quarts of veal-broth [No. 
298]; add a bunch of parsley with aromatics, pepper, a quart of peeled 
and pressed tomatoes cut in quarters, and a little green pepper cut 
small ; stir to a boil, cover, and cook an hour ; remove the parsley, 



COOKERY BOOK. 



409 



skim the fat, add a pint of plain-boiled rice, boil a minute longer, pour 
in a soup-tureen, and serve. 

Fried Oysters. — Procure three dozen large fresh-opened oysters 
drain on a cloth, and sprinkle with flour; beat three eggs with salt, white 
and red pepper ; dip the oysters one by one in the eggs, then in pul- 
verized crackers, and press gently between the hands ; heat very hot 
half a pound of lard in a large flat frying-pan, place the oysters in it, 
not too closely, and fry pretty crisp and light brown on both sides ; 
drain on a cloth, salt, dish up on a folded napkin, put fried parsley atop, 
surround with quartered lemon, and serve. 

Minced Fillet of Beef ^ la Fontenelle (supposing enough 
roast fillet to be left over the previous day). — Cut cold roast fillet of 
beef in thin slices, season with salt and pepper ; peel, slice, and parboil 
four large white onions ; cool, press the water out, put them in a sauce- 
pan with three ounces of butter, stir on the fire until soft, and rub 
through a sieve ; chop fine two shallots and a handful of mushrooms, 
put them in a saucepan with two glasses of white wine, a pinch of red 
pepper, and reduce to one fourth; add a pint of veloute sauce, the onion 
puree, and chopped parsley ; mix well, dip the sliced fillet in the sauce, 
range in a circle on an entree baking-dish, pour the sauce over, sprin- 
kle with bread-crumbs and a little grated cheese, drop small bits of 
butter atop, bake light brown in a brisk oven, and serve in the baking- 
dish. 

Leg of Mutton ^ Ja Piemontaise. — Procure a tender leg of 
mutton ; beat well with the cleaver, so as to bruise the fibres and make 
the mutton more tender ; remove the hip and most of the round bone, 
cut the large tendon so as to bend the knuckle-bone, and saw off the 
small end ; chop fine half a pound of lean mutton-meat with three 
ounces of beef-marrow, salt, pepper, chopped shallot and parsley, and 
a handful of fresh crumbs ; mix well, fill the place of the round bone, 
sew the opening, truss nicely, and roast in a moderate oven for about 
an hour ; untruss and place the mutton on a dish, skim all the fat; add 
a glass of marsala wine, two tablespoonfuls of currant jelly, and a ladle- 
ful of thickened gravy to the drippings ; boil five minutes, press through 
a napkin, pour some round the mutton, put a paper ruffle on the 
bone, and serve the rest of the sauce in a bowl. 

Apple Tart a la Saxonne. — Butter and line a ten-inch-wide 
and two-inch-high pastry-ring with tart-paste [No. 181] ; pare and core 
twelve large green apples, cut in quarters, range symmetrically on the 
paste, and bake slowly in a moderate oven ; put two eggs, two ounces 
of sugar, and two ounces of powdered almond macaroons in a basin; 



4IO FRANCO-AMERICAN 

beat well for ten minutes, add a tablespoonful of thick cream, spread 
over the apples, sprinkle a light coating of finely powdered sugar 
(glaze) over all, and glaze to a light color in a slow oven ; slide on a 
dish, and serve hot. 

No. 247. 

Tuesday, September 4. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Spaghetti, a la Turinoise. 

Codfish steaks a la Canadienne ; 
Boiled potatoes with butter. 

Shoulders of mutton a la Messoise ; 
Fried oyster-plant. 

Salmi of partridge a la Montglas ; 
Chiccory salad a la Gasconne. 

Nouille cake a la Fran9aise. 

Spaghetti, a la Turinoise. — Boil six ounces of spaghetti in 
slightly salted water for ten minutes ; cool, drain on a cloth, and cut 
in two-inch lengths ; put it in a saucepan with two quarts of con- 
somme [No. 133] and a quart of tomato puree ; boil ten minutes 
longer, skim, add a pint of small polenta quenelles ; pour into a soup- 
tureen, and serve with grated parmesan cheese separately on a plate. 

Polenta Quenelles. — Put four ounces of mellow butter in an 
earthen vessel with five egg-yolks ; stir quickly with a wooden spoon 
until frothy ; add five ounces of fine polenta (Indian meal), season 
with salt and nutmeg, and mix well ; fill a teaspoon with the prepara- 
tion, smooth with the blade of a knife dipped in hot water, and with 
another teaspoon, also dipped in hot water, scoop out the quenelle and 
drop it in boiling water ; repeat the operation until the whole is used 
up ; let simmer slowly until firm, drain on a cloth, pare a little, and 
use. 

Codfish Steaks, Canadian Style. — Procure four pounds of 
middle-cut fresh cod-steaks ; keep them in shape by trussing with short 
skewers ; put them in a large frying-pan with four ounces of melted 
butter, salt, pepper, and a chopped onion, and fry slowly on both sides 
until done, without browning ; drain the fish on a dish ; sprinkle an 
ounce of flour in the frying-pan, dilute with a gill of white wine and a 
pint of water ; stir to a boil, add four ounces of butter, chopped pars- 
ley, and lemon-juice ; pour the sauce over the fish, and serve. 

Shoulders of Mutton a la Messoise. — Remove the shoulder- 
blade and round bone of two shoulders of mutton ; pare the handle, 
fasten long shreds of fat pork inside, season with salt and pepper, roll 



COOKERY BOOK. 411 

nicely, and sew up the shoulders ; put them in a saucepan with 
two ounces of butter on a brisk fire, fry brown all round, drain 
off the butter ; add a quart of broth, a bunch of parsley with 
aromatics, an onion, two quartered carrots, and two ladlefuls of 
thick gravy ; boil, cover, and cook slowly for three hours ; strain, 
skim all the fat, and reduce the gravy to a demi-glaze sauce ; put a 
thick layer of sour-krout [No. 57] on a dish ; untruss, pare, and place 
the shoulders thereon, surround with small, short sausages 'cooked in 
the sour-krout ; pour the reduced gravy over all, add paper ruffles to 
the bones, and serve. 

Salmi of Partridge a la Montglas. — Take three fleshy, tender 
partridges ; singe, void, truss, cover the breast with thin bardes of fat 
pork, and roast rather rare ; divide each partridge in five parts (two 
legs, two fillets, and the upper breast with part of the fillets), season 
with salt and pepper, and keep hot ; put the bones and parings in a 
saucepan with aromatics, chopped shallots, a glass of sherry wine, and 
a pint of espagnole sauce ; boil ten minutes, strain, and finish with the 
juice of half a lemon and a tablespoonful of sweet oil ; dish up the 
partridges on a round, five-inch wide and two-inch thick cut of bread 
fried crisp in oil ; surround the base with a garnishing a la montglas 
[No. 306], pour part of the sauce over all, and serve the rest in a sauce- 
bowl. 

Nouille Cake a la Franpaise.— Prepare a pound of nouille-paste 
[No. 302] ; boil two quarts of milk with five ounces of sugar ; add the 
nouilles, boil ten minutes, and drain in a colander ; beat four eggs with 
four ounces of melted butter and a few drops of vanilla-extract ; add 
the nouilles and mix carefully ; butter and bread-crumb a plain char- 
lotte-mould [No. 241], fill with the nouilles, sprinkle bread-crumbs over, 
put on a baking-sheet, and bake for forty minutes ; invert on a dish, 
let stand a while, remove the mould ; serve with a sauce made with 
four egg-yolks, a pint of the milk used to boil the nouilles, and two 
ounces of sugar, stirred on the fire until thick. 



412 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 248. 

Wednesday, September 5. — Bill of fare for eight persons: 

Soup : Cream of barley a la jardinidre. 

Broiled oysters on toast ; 
Saratoga potatoes. 

Curry of veal with rice ; 
Oron<Tes a la Bordelaise. 



Sirloin steaks, marrow sauce ; 
Tomato salad. 



Jam-roUy, English style. 

Cream of Barley a la Jardiniere. — Rub in the hands, and 
wash a pound of barley until the water comes clear ; parboil, drain, 
and put in a saucepan with two quarts of veal-broth ; boil, cover, and 
let simmer four hours, rub through a fine sieve, return to a saucepan, 
dilute to about three quarts with milk ; boil again, skim, put in a 
little sugar, a cup of cream, and tint slightly with three ounces of 
butter mixed with a little spinach-green [No. 107] ; add cooked car- 
rots and turnips, cut in half-inch lengths with a pencil-sized tin tube, 
small flowerets of cauliflowers, and half a pint of small green peas ; 
boil no longer, and serve. 

Broiled Oysters on Toast. — Procure three dozen large 
creamy oysters, drain on a cloth, and season with salt and pepper } 
have some melted butter in a large flat frying-pan, drop in the oysters, 
fry briskly for two minutes or so, only to stiffen the oysters on each 
side ; range closely on a hot and buttered double gridiron, and broil 
light brown on both sides over a moderate fire ; range them on thin 
buttered toast on a dish, pour the butter used to stiffen the oysters 
over them, surround with quartered lemons, and serve, 

Curry of Veal with Rice. — Remove the ribs and red breast- 
bones from about four pounds of white breast of veal, and cut it in 
pieces ; steep in water for an hour, put in a saucepan with fresh water 
to cover, and salt ; boil, scum, boil five minutes, turn into a large col- 
ander, and save the liquid ; cool and wash the veal, drain on a cloth, 
return to a saucepan with four ounces of butter ; stir, and fry until the 
butter turns clear ; sprinkle with an ounce and a half of flour and 
two tablespoonfuls of curry-powder ; mix well, dilute with the liquid, 
stir to a boil ; add a bunch of parsley with aromatics, a carrot, and an 
onion with three cloves stuck in it ; cover, and cook slowly for about 
fifty minutes ; remove the onion, carrot, and parsley ; thicken with a 
liaison of four egg-yolks, a little cream, and lemon-juice, and mix 
well by tossing the saucepan ; dish up the veal in a large border of 



COOKERY BOOK. 413 

plain-boiled rice [No. 169] ; pour part of the sauce over, and serve 
the rest in a bowl. 

Oronges a la Bordelaise. — Procure a quart of Bordeaux 
canned oronges (a sort of large, flat, orange-colored, and delicious 
mushroom very abundant in Southern Europe) ; open, and heat them 
by placing the can in boiling water ; drain in a colander, v/ipe with a 
soft cloth, for the oil is generally rancid, and cut in slices ; chop two 
shallots, put them in a sautoir with two tablespoonfuls of sweet oil, fry 
a little, add the oronges, and fry a little longer ; finish with two ladle- 
fuls of espagnole sauce, salt, pepper, chopped parsley, and lemon-juice ; 
mix well, and serve. 

Sirloin Steaks, Marrow Sauce. — Take four fat beef sirloin 
steaks weighing about a pound each ; flatten, pare a little, season with 
salt and pepper, baste with oil, and broil rare ; range on a dish, pour 
a marrow sauce over, and serve. 

Marrow Sauce. — Chop two shallots, put them in a saucpan with 
an ounce of butter ; fry a little, add half a pint of espagnole sauce 
and a little beef-extract ; boil a minute, add gradually four ounces 
of butter, a tablespoonful of vinegar, chopped parsley, and a pinch of 
red pepper ; finish with four ounces of slightly blanched beef-marrow 
cut in thin slices, and use immediately. 

Jam-Rolly Pudding. — Prepare a pudding-paste with a pound of 
flour as directed [No. 171] ; roll down to a fourth of an inch and in 
an oblong shape ; cover with a thin layer of some kind of fruit marma- 
lade ; roll the paste on itself, making a roller about three inches wide ; 
then roll again in a buttered and floured napkin, fasten firmly on both 
ends, and tie it every two or three inches ; plunge in boiling water, 
and boil steadily for an hour and a half ; drain, remove the napkin, 
cut transversely in half-inch thick slices, and serve with granulated 
sugar in a bowl. 

No. 249. 

Thursday, September 6. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Chicken, with okra. 

Spanish mnckeiel a la Venitienne ; 
Potatoes a la HoUaiidaise. 



Mutton chops breaded, sauce piqtiante ; 
Lima beans sautes in butter. 



Roast partridge, bread sauce ; 
Chiccory salad. 

Peaches a la Conde. 



414 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Chicken, with Okra. — Singe and draw a large, tender chicken ; 
cut it in small pieces, put it in a saucepan with two ounces of butter, 
two ounces of lean ham, and an onion cut in squares ; stir on the fire 
until the moisture is evaporated, drain off the butter, wet with two 
quarts of beef-broth ; add a quart of peeled and seedless tomatoes cut 
in pieces, half a green pepper cut small, four ounces of rice, and about 
fifty tender okras, pared at both ends and cut in rounds ; season with 
salt, pepper, nutmeg, a bunch of parsley with aromatics, also a leek 
and stack of celery tied together ; set to boil, cover, and let simmer 
fifty minutes ; skim the fat, remove the parsley, leek, and celery ; taste, 
pour into a soup-tureen, and serve. 

Spanish Mackerel a la Venitienne. — Procure a large Spanish 
mackerel ; pare off the fins, draw and cleanse nicely ; put in a buttered 
fish-pan with salt, pepper, nutmeg, chopped onion, and parsley, small 
bits of butter on top, and half a pint of white wine and white broth in 
equal parts ; cover with a buttered paper, boil, and then cook about 
forty minutes in a moderate oven, basting occasionally with the liquid; 
drain, and reduce the liquid with a pint of white or veloute sauce, 
thicken with a liaison of four egg-yolks and four ounces of butter ; 
stir without boiling, press through a napkin, and finish with the juice 
of a lemon, and two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped aud pressed 
parsley ; slide the fish on a dish, pour the sauce over, and serve. 

Mutton Chops Breaded, Sauce Piquante. — Cut eight large, 
fat-covered mutton chops ; season with salt and pepper, baste with 
melted butter, roll in fresh bread-crumbs, and broil rather rare and of 
a nice color over a moderate charcoal fire ; dish up in a circle, pour a 
piquante sauce [No. 351] in the centre, ornament the edge of the dish 
with sliced gherkins, put small paper ruffles on the bones, and serve. 

Roast Partridge, Bread Sauce. — Take three or four partridge 
(according to size) ; pick, singe, draw, and dress well ; cover ,the 
breast with thin bardes of fat pork, put on the spit or in the roasting- 
pan, and roast briskly for about twenty-five minutes ; untruss, dish up 
on toast ; add a little gravy to the drippings, pour this over the birds, 
and serve with a bread sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Bread Sauce. — Chop fine a white onion, parboil, cool, press the 
water out, put it in a saucepan with a pint of boiling milk, stale white 
crumbs enough to make a thick sauce, salt, white and a pinch of red 
pepper, and two ounces of butter ; boil ten minutes, flavor with a gill 
of white wine, and pass through a fine colander. 

Peaches ^ la Conde. — Cut in two, blanch in syrup, and peel 
eight large peaches ; drain them on a hair-sieve ; wash a pint of rice, 



COOKERY BOOK. 



415 



put it in a saucepan with three pints of milk ; boil, add two ounces of 
butter, six ounces of sugar, and some lemon-peel ; cover and cook 
half an hour ; remove the peel, add four egg-yolks, and mix well ; 
with part of the rice make a dozen small, peach-shaped croquettes ; 
dip them in beaten eggs, roll in fresh crumbs, smooth nicely, fry light 
brown, drain on a cloth, and roll in powdered sugar ; dress the rest of 
the rice on a dish, arrange the peaches in a dome form upon it ; orna- 
ment with fancifully cut pieces of candied angelicas and citron, malaga 
raisins, and almonds ; reduce the peach-syrup until pretty thick with a 
glass of madeira wine and four tablespoonfuls of peach marmalade ; 
pour this over the peaches, surround with the croquettes, and serve 
hot. 



No. 250. 

Friday, September 7. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Eel, Hartford style. 

Fried soft clams ; 
Potatoes a la Reitz. 

Mutton pudding, Scotch style ; 
Lima beans au veloute. 

Chicken saute a la Jersey ; 
Beet and chiccory salad. 

St. Honore cake au chocolat. 

Eel Soup, Hartford Style. — Take two pounds of medium- 
sized eels ; skin, draw, pare off the heads, tails, and fins, scrape off the 
blood inside, wash well, cut in short pieces, parboil a minute, and drain 
on a cloth ; parboil also a pint of scollops in salted water, drain and 
put them with the eel ; thicken three quarts of fish-broth [No. 327] 
with three ounces of flour cooked in butter ; add the eel, the scollops 
and a bunch of parsley with aromatics, and boil half an hour ; skim, 
remove the parsley, pour part of the liquid into a smaller saucepan ; 
add a liaison of four egg-yolks, four ounces of butter in small bits, and a 
pinch of red pepper ; mix well, put this with the fish, pour carefully 
into a soup-tureen, and serve with thin half-inch squares of bread fried 
in butter, separately on a plate. 

Fried Soft Clams. — Take three dozen of shelled soft clams ; re- 
move the tough muscle and drain on a cloth ; beat two eggs with 
an ounce of melted butter, a little milk, a pinch of red pepper, and 
a handful of flour ; mix the clams carefully in this batter, and drop 
them one by one in plenty of very hot, clear fat ; fry them pretty 
crisp and light brown ; drain on a cloth, salt, dish up on a folded 



4i6 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

napkin, surround with quartered lemons, put fried parsley atop, and 
serve. 

Mutton Pudding, Scotch Style. — Take a tender shoulder of 
mutton, pare off the bones and fat, and cut in collops ; put a chopped 
onion and two ounces of butter in a saucepan, fry a little, add the mut- 
ton, and fry a little longer ; drain the mutton, sprinkle a small 
tablespoonful of flour in the saucepan, dilute with half a pint 
of broth ; season with salt, pepper, ground aromatics, and a 
tablespoonful of " harvey-sauce " ; cool partially, and mingle with the 
meat; line a buttered pudding-mould with pudding-paste [No 171], 
turn the mutton and sauce into it, wet the edge, cover with a flat of the 
same paste and twist the edge carefully ; wet, butter, and flour the 
centre of a strong napkin, cover the bowl and tie the napkin firmly 
underneath ; plunge into a large saucepan of boiling water, and boil 
steadily for two hours ; drain,jlet stand a while, remove the napkin, 
turn on a dish, pour a madeira sauce round it, and serve. 

Chicken Saute a la Jersey. — Take two large, tender chickens ; 
pare, draw, and divide as for fricassee ; range in a sautoir with melted 
butter, fry light brown on both sides, drain most of the fat off, sprinkle 
with an ounce of flour, fry a little longer, dilute with half a pint of pure 
good cider and a pint of broth, add a bunch of parsley with aromatics, 
cover, and boil half an hour ; pare, cut in halves and core eight large 
green apples ; range them in a buttered sautoir, and butter over with a 
paste brush ; start on the fire, cook in the oven, and range in a circle 
on a dish ; remove the parsley, dish up the chicken in the centre, add 
lemon-juice to the sauce, pour it over the chicken, and serve. 

St. Honore Cake au Chocolat. — Prepare a St. Honore cake 
as directed [No. 151], but dip the small cakes in melted chocolate in- 
stead of caramel sugar ; sprinkle a little granulated sugar over and range 
them on the border ; mix two ounces of melted chocolate and a few 
drops of vanilla-essence in the cream instead of chopped lemon rind as 
directed in the above number, and serve in the same way. 



COOKERY BOOK. 417 

No. 251. 

Saturday, September 8. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Printanier. 

Sea-bass a la Buena- Vista ; 
Potato croquettes. 

Round of beef a la Flamande ; 
Baked macaroni. 

Roast chicken with cress ; 
Lettuce, sauce Mayonnaise. 

Peach fritters glazed. 

Printanier Soup. — Prepare and strain in a saucepan three quarts 
of consomme as directed [No. 133] ; with a small vegetable-scoop or 
tin tube cut enough carrots and turnips ; cook separately with a little 
water, salt, butter, and sugar, and reduce to a glaze ; put this with the 
consomme, boil five minutes, skim ; add a half pint each of cooked 
green peas and string-beans cut in short pieces, small flowerets of cauli- 
flowers, and a handful of finely cut chervil, sorrel, and lettuce-leaves ; 
boil two minutes longer, pour in a soup-tureen, and serve. 

Sea-Bass a la Buena- Vista. — Procure a large sea-bass weigh- 
ing about four pounds ; pare off the fins, draw, scale thoroughly, wash 
well, and wipe dry ; cut a deep lengthwise incision from head to tail 
on each side ; place the fish on a buttered fish-pan Avith a chopped 
onion, a bunch of parsley with aromatics, a pint of stewed tomatoes, 
and half a green pepper cut small ; season with salt and pepper, and 
wet with half a pint of port wine and a pint of broth ; put small bits of 
butter on top, set to boil, and cook in a moderate oven for forty min- 
utes, taking care to baste the fish once in a while with the liquid ; re- 
move the parsley, drain, and reduce the liquid sufficiently with a pint 
of espagnole sauce [No. 262] ; meanwhile scald and peel eight ripe 
tomatoes, and bake them whole in a buttered dish with salt, pep- 
per, and small bits of butter on each one ; slide the bass on a dish, 
range the tomatoes in a row on top ; add chopped parsley and lemon- 
juice to the sauce, pour it over all, and serve. 

Round of Beef a la Flamande. — Truss and put a round piece of 
beef in a saucepan with four ounces of beef-fat ; put it on the fire, and 
fry briskly and brown all round ; drain the fat off ; add two quartered 
onions and carrots, a' bunch of parsley with aromatics, a clove of garlic, 
and a little salt and pepper ; wet with a pint of white wine, half a pint of 
stewed tomatoes or tomato-puree, and nearly cover with white broth ; boil, 
put the lid on, and cook slowly for about three hours ; strain, skim the 
fat, add two ladlefuls of espagnole sauce, and reduce the gravy to a 



41 8 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

demi-glaze ; drain, pare, and dish up the beef ; surround with a gar- 
nishing a la flamande [No. 17], pour part of the sauce over, and serve 
the rest in a sauce-bowl. 

Roast Chicken with Cress. — Select two medium-sized fat, 
tender, and dry-picked chickens (those from Bucks County, Penn- 
sylvania, are the better prepared) ; singe, draw, pare off the necks 
and legs, and truss nicely ; cover the breast with thin bardes of fat 
pork, put a pinch of salt inside, and roast on the spit or in the oven for 
about forty-five minutes, basting occasionally with melted butter ; un- 
truss and dish up the chickens, surround with water-cress slightly sea- 
soned with salt and vinegar ; strain and pour the drippings over the 
chickens, and serve. 

Peach Fritters. — Have a dozen of not too ripe peaches ; cut them 
in two, remove the pits, pare, put in an earthen vessel with a glass of 
brandy and a handful of powdered sugar to steep an hour ; drain, dip 
in a flour batter [No. 5], and drop one by one in plenty of clear, very 
hot fat ; fry pretty crisp and light brown, drain on a cloth, put on a 
baking-sheet, the round side uppermost ; cover with powdered sugar, 
and put them in a very hot oven for about a minute or so until the 
sugar is melted to a glaze ; pare a little, range on a folded napkin, and 
serve. 

No. 252. 

Sunday September 9. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Puree of Lima beans. 

Fillets of sole a la Venitienne ; 
Baked mashed potatoes. 

Veal cutlets with chiccory ; 
Stuffed tomatoes. 



Roast duck, apple sauce ; 
Escarole salad. 



Mousse aux poires. 

Puree of Lima Beans. — Put two quarts of lima beans in a 
saucepan with salted boiling water, an onion with three cloves stuck in 
it, a quartered carrot, a bunch of parsley with aromatics, and two 
ounces of butter ; boil briskly until soft, drain in a colander, and save 
the liquid ; remove the onion, parsley, and carrot ; pound the beans to 
a puree, dilute with the liquid and enough white broth ; rub through 
a sieve, return to a saucepan, stir, and boil again ; skim, season to 
taste, finish with four ounces of butter, mix well, boil no more ; pour 
in a soup-tureen, add small squares of bread fried in butter, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 419 

Fillets of Sole ^ la Venitienne. — Take the fillets of two large 
flounders ; pare off the skin, fold the fillets, flatten, trim a little, 
put in a buttered sautoir with salt, pepper, nutmeg, a chopped onion, 
and two glasses of white wine ; set to boil, cover, and cook ten min- 
utes ; drain the liquid into a saucepan, add a pint of broth, thicken 
with an ounce of flour kneaded in butter ; boil ten minutes, add a 
liaison of four egg-yolks and four ounces of butter ; stir on the fire 
without boiling, press through a napkin, and finish with a tablespoon- 
ful of finely chopped and pressed parsley and lemon-juice ; dish up 
the fillets — one overlapping the other — in a row, put a head of mush- 
room on each one ; pour the sauce over, and serve. 

Veal Cutlets with Chiccory. — Take eight medium-sized veal 
cutlets from the loin ; pare off the spine and superfluous fat, flatten, 
season with salt and pepper, put in a sautoir with melted butter, and 
cook well and light brown on both sides ; drain off the butter, moisten 
with a gill of sherry wine, a little broth, and two ladlefuls of espagnole 
sauce ; boil, and let simmer fifteen minutes ; dress up some mashed 
chiccory on a dish, range the cutlets in a circle, fill the centre with 
more chiccory, pour the reduced gravy over the meat, and serve. 

Mashed Chiccory. — Trim off the greenest leaves and hard parts 
of eight chiccory stalks ; parboil five minutes in salted water, drain, 
cool in cold water, press the water out, put the chiccory on the table, 
and chop very fine ; put it in a saucepan on the fire with two ounces 
of butter, stir five minutes, sprinkle an ounce of flour over, mix well ; 
season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a little sugar ; dilute with white 
broth, boil, cover, and cook slowly for half an hour ; finish with two 
ounces of butter, and mix well. 

Roast Duck, Apple Sauce. — Take two large tame, summer 
ducks ; singe, draw, pare off the. neck, wings, and legs ; put a pinch of 
salt inside, close the lower aperture with the rump ; truss nicely, put 
on the spit or in the roasting-pan, and cook about forty minutes, 
sprinkling occasionally with the drippings ; salt, untruss, and dish up 
the ducks ; add a little rich broth to the drippings, strain over the 
ducks, and serve with an apple sauce [No. 51] in a sauce-bowl. 

Mousse aux Poires. — Pare, remove the core, and rub enough 
well-flavored table pears through a hair-sieve to obtain a pint of pulp ; 
put them in an earthen vessel with half a pound of powdered sugar, 
and stir with a wooden spoon on ice until very cold ; add a few drops 
of vanilla-extract, and mix with sufficient well-whipt cream to fill a 
three-pint conical entremet-mould previously lined with thin white 
paper ; cover hermetically, and imbed in salted ice for at least two 



420 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

hours ; at serving-time take the cover off, turn on a folded napkin, re- 
move the paper, and serve. 



No. 253. 

Monday, September lo. — Bill of fare for eight persons; 

Soup : Pea and vermicelli. 

Boiled cod, oyster sauce ; 
Boiled potatoes. 

Stewed chicken a la Creole ; 

Boiled rice ; 

Broiled sweet potatoes. 

Lobster salad. 



Pancakes with peaches. 

Pea and Vermicelli. — Prepare two quarts of puree of peas [No. 
269] ; put in a saucepan with a quart of beef-broth ; boil separately 
four ounces of large white vermicelli for ten minutes, in salted water ; 
drain, put with the soup, boil ten minutes longer, skim, and serve. 

Boiled Cod, Oyster Sauce. — Pare off the fins of a six-pound 
fresh codfish and cleanse well ; truss the head to the body .with a 
string ; put in a fish-kettle with salted and acidulated water to an inch 
over ; cover with a sheet of paper, boil and let simmer half an hour on 
the side of the fire ; drain, slide on a folded napkin, surround with 
parsley-leaves, and serve with an oyster sauce [No. 73] in a sauce- 
bowl. 

Stewed Chicken ^ la Creole. — Singe and draw two tender 
chickens ; cut in pieces, put in a sautoir with four ounces of melted 
butter, salt, and pepper ; fry light brown on both sides, drain off most 
of the butter, add two chopped onions, and fry a little longer ; 
scald, peel, and press the seeds out of eight tomatoes ; cut and put 
them with the chickens ; add half a green pepper cut small, a bunch of 
parsley with aromatics, two ladlefuls of espagnole sauce, and half a pint 
of white broth ; cover and let simmer half an hour ; remove the pars- 
ley, skim the fat, dish up in pyramidal form, pour the sauce over, and 
serve with plain-boiled rice separately on a dish. 

Boiled Rice. — Wash well, and boil a pint of rice in two quarts of 
slightly salted water for about fifteen minutes ; drain in a colander, 
cover with a thick cloth for about ten minutes so that the rice may 
absorb the moisture ; drop with a fork into a deep dish, and serve very 
hot. 

Lobster Salad. — Cook and take the meat out of two large 
lobsters ; cut it small and put in a bowl with salt, pepper, oil, and 



COOKERY BOOK. 421 

vinegar (if there is coral in the lobsters chop it fine to ornament the 
surface) ; remove the greenest leaves of three lettuce-stalks, pick, wash, 
drain well, save the hearts ; cut the leaves fine, and press the water 
out ; put into a salad-bowl, add the lobster, give a dome form, mask 
with a mayonnaise sauce [No. 254], surround with the quartered 
lettuce-hearts alternately with quartered hard-boiled eggs ; garnish 
symmetrically with stoned olives, capers, anchovy-fillets, and the chop- 
ped coral, and serve as cool as possible. 

Pancakes with Peaches. — Put in an earthen vessel four ounces 
of sifted flour, two ounces of sugar, two ounces of melted butter, a 
handful of bruised almond-macaroons, three eggs and three egg-yolks ; 
mix well with an egg-beater, and dilute to the consistency of a flour 
batter with cold milk ; butter two small omelet-pans and make a num- 
ber of thin pancakes ; put them on a cloth ; spread some finely sliced 
and consistent stewed peaches over, roll them one by one, sprinkle 
with powdered sugar ; put them on a baking-sheet, and glaze to a 
nice color, either in a very hot oven or with a red-hot glazing iron ; 
pare both ends, dish up in a circle, pour more stewed peaches in the 
centre, and serve hot. 

No. 254. 

Tuesday, September 11. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Puree a la Crecy. 

Fried scollops ; 
Potatoes saulees. 

Pillau of beef a la Navarraise ; 
Stuffed peppers. 

Mayonnaise of chicken ; 
Sliced tomatoes. 

Pears a la Portugaise. 

Pur€e el la Cr6cy. — Scrape, wash well, and slice fine the outer 
part of a dozen large, french carrots ; parboil five minutes, drain ; put 
in a saucepan with four ounces of butter, the white of four leeks, and 
two sliced onions ; stir on the fire until the moisture is mostly evapo- 
rated ; sprinkle four ounces of flour over, mingle well, dilute with white 
broth, season with salt and pepper, cover, and cook slowly ; rub the 
whole through a fine sieve, add more broth if necessary, and boil again ; 
skim, finish with two ounces of butter and a teaspoonful of sugar ; pour 
into a soup-tureen, add small squares of bread fried in butter, and 
serve. 

Fried Scollops. — Take three pints of large scollops ; season with 



422 



FRANCO-AMERICAN 



salt and pepper, sprinkle with flour, dip in beaten eggs ; then roll in 
pulverized crackers and fry them (not too many at a time) of a 
nice color in plenty of very hot lard ; drain on a cloth, salt a little, 
dish up on a folded napkin, surround with quartered lemons, and serve. 

Pillau of Beef ^ la Navarraise. — Cut two pounds of tenderloin 
of beef in about sixteen pieces ; put in a saucepan with half a pound 
of streaky salt pork cut in small squares, a chopped onion, a well-tied 
bunch of parsley with aromatics, and four ounces of butter ; set on a 
brisk fire, stir until the butter turns clear, wet with half a pint of broth, 
cover, and let simmer forty minutes ; add a pound of rice, a quart of 
broth, half ajDint of tomato sauce, salt, and a pinch each of powderpd 
saffron and red pepper ; stir to a boil, cover, and let simmer twenty min- 
utes longer ; remove the parsley, turn up on a dish, and serve. 

Stuffed Peppers. — Take eight or more medium-sized green pep- 
pers ; immerse for half a minute in scorching-hot fat, and rub them 
with a towel to remove the peel ; cut round the stem and remove both 
it and the seeds ; fill them with a tomato stuffing [No. 309], put in a 
baking-pan, baste with oil, and cook in a moderate oven for half an 
hour ; dish up, pour a tomato or demi-glaze sauce round them, and 
serve. 

Mayonnaise of Chicken. — Roast slowly two medium-sized spring 
chickens ; cool, pick off the meat, cut it small, put in a bowl, and 
season with salt and pepper ; take three lettuce-stalks, remove the 
greenest leaves, save the hearts, cut the rest in shreds, wash, press the 
water out, and put in a salad-bowl ; add the chicken, press down a 
little, cover with mayonnaise sauce, and smooth the surface ; put a 
small lettuce-heart on the centre, quarter the two others, and arrange 
them along the edge alternately with quartered hard-boiled eggs and 
thin slices of red beet, olives, and capers ; serve. 

Mayonnaise Sauce. — Put in a salad-bowl two egg-yolks, a tea- 
spoonful of mustard-flour, salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg ; stir quick- 
ly with a wooden spoon, adding drop by drop at the beginning, and 
then more quickly, a pint of sweet oil, with a few drops of vinegar when 
the sauce appears too thick ; this done, if too thick yet, and acidulated 
enough, dilute to the desired consistency with a little raw cream or cold 
water. 

Pears it la Portugaise. — Pare eight or more cooking-pears ; re- 
move the core with a small vegetable-scoop ; rub with half a lemon to 
maintain the whiteness and cook them in a light syrup ; drain on a 
sieve ; reduce the syrup with a glass of maraschino liqueur, and pour 
it over the pears into an earthen vessel ; let cool, dish up on a compot- 



COOKERY BOOK. 423 

dish, pour the syrup over, surround with fanciful cuts of quince or 
currant jelly, and serve. 



No. 255. 

Wednesday, September 12. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Julienne. 

Blue-fish, white-wine sauce ; 
Sliced potatoes with cream. 

Fricand-eau of veal with peas ; 
Egg-plant a 1' Italienne. 

Roast squab with cress ; 
Lettuce and egg salad. 

Queen fritters. 

Julienne Soup. — Cut lengthwise some carrots, turnips, the whites 
of two leeks, two stalks of celery, and a white onion, in short, fine shreds; 
shred also some white cabbage-leaves ; mix the whole together, put 
them in a saucepan with four ounces of butter, set on the fire, and stir 
occasionally until the moisture is evaporated ; wet with three quarts of 
beef-broth [No. 263], and boil slowly for about forty minutes ; skim 
the fat, add a teaspoonful of sugar, half a pint of small, cooked green 
peas, a handful of chervil, sorrel, and lettuce-leaves cut in fine shreds ; 
boil two minutes longer, pour into a soup-tureen, and serve. 

Blue-Fish, White- Wine Sauce.— Procure a blue-fish weighing 
about five pounds ; pare off the fins, cleanse and dress well ; place in 
a buttered fish-pan with salt, pepper, a bunch of parsley with aro- 
matics, a sliced onion, a pint of white wine, and half a pint of white 
broth ; cover with a buttered paper, boil and cook about forty minutes, 
basting the fish occasionally with the liquid ; drain, and thicken the 
liquid with an ounce of flour cooked in butter, boil ten minutes ; add a 
liaison of three egg-yolks, four ounces of butter, and lemon-juice ; mix 
well, stir on the fire without boiling, and press through a napkin, slide 
the fish on a dish, pour the sauce over it, and serve. 

Fricandeau of Veal with Peas.— Prepare, lard, and cook anoix 
of veal as directed [No. 204] ; drain, skim the fat, and reduce the 
gravy to a demi-glaze sauce ; dish on a garnishing of green peas [No. 
115], pour the gravy over the veal, and serve. 

Egg-Plant a 1' Italienne. — Take two medium-sized egg-plants ; 
pare off the stems, slit lengthwise in halves, trace incisions inside, fry 
the plants till soft, and drain on a cloth ; put in a saucepan two ounces 
of butter, two ounces of finely chopped salt pork, chopped shallots, 
and a pint of chopped mushrooms ; stir and cook ten minutes ; with a 



424 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

tablespoon take up most of the fleshy part of the egg-plants, chop a 
little, put with the above preparation , season with salt, pepper, and 
chopped parsley ; mix well, and then put this stuffing into the egg- 
plants on a baking-dish ; sprinkle with fresh bread-crumbs and grated 
parmesan cheese, drop a little sweet oil over, and bake light brown in a 
pretty hot oven ; slide on a dish, pour a ladleful of demi-glaze sauce 
round it, and serve. 

Roast Squab with Cress. — Take four squab ; singe, draw, sea- 
son, and put the livers inside again ; truss and cover the breast with 
thin bardes of fat bacon, and roast briskly for twenty minutes ; dish up 
on four pieces of dry toast, surround with water-cress, pour the drip- 
pings over, and serve. 

Queen Fritters. — Boil a pint of water in a saucepan with four 
ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of sugar, and the rind of a lemon for 
five minutes ; remove the lemon, add at once ten ounces of sifted flour, 
and mix quickly and well with a wooden spoon ; stir on the fire until 
the dough does not stick to the spoon and saucepan ; take off the fire, 
and then add one by one ten eggs, diluting the dough to the consistency 
of a thin paste ; fifteen minutes before serving have plenty of very hot 
frying-fat in a large, deep pan ; with the aid of a tablespoon and the 
forefinger of the left hand, drop large nutmeg-sized bits of the paste in 
the fat, fry slowly until pretty crisp and expanded about four times 
the original size ; drain on a cloth, dish up on a folded napkin, sprinkle 
with powdered sugar, and serve. 



No. 256. 

Thursday, September 13. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup ; Mutton, with barley. 

Fillets of mackerel, sauce ravigote ; 
Mashed potatoes. 

Fillet of beef a la jardiniere ; 
Stewed okra a 1' Espagnole. 

Reed birds on toast ; 
Celery salad. 

Gelee aux fruits. 
Mutton, with Barley. — Take a fore-quarter of mutton, save 
the chops for further use, take all the lean from the shoulder ; put 
all the rest — neck, bones of the shoulder, breast, trimmings of the 
chops, etc. — in a saucepan with two pounds of soup-beef, salt, pepper- 
corns, a bunch of parsley with aromatics, a quartered carrot, an onion 
with three cloves stuck in it, a turnip, two leeks, and a stalk of celery ; 



COOKERY BOOK. 425 

wet with two gallons of water, and boil three hours (save the breast, 
remove the bones, and press the meat between two tin sheets ; it will 
make a good dish for breakfast, breaded, and broiled with piquante 
sauce) ; meanwhile wash well and boil separately four ounces of barley 
with a quart of salted water for two hours ; cut the meat from the 
shoulder in small squares, and cook it also separately in broth for an 
hour ; drain the meat over the mutton-broth, drain also the barley, and 
put both in a saucepan ; skim the fat, and strain three quarts of broth 
through a wet napkin over the meat and barley ; boil ten minutes 
longer, and season to taste ; skim again, color slightly with a little car- 
amel, pour into a soup-tureen, and serve. 

Fillets of Mackerel, Sauce Ravigote. — Take the fillets of four 
fresh mackerel ; cut them ifi two., trim a little ; cook in a buttered 
sautoir with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a gill of white wine ; dish up 
in a circle ; put a pint of ravigote sauce in the sautoir, stir a little, pour 
over the fish, and serve. 

Ravigote Sauce. — Chop fine four shallots, and put them in a 
small saucepan with two ounces of butter and four tablespoonfuls of 
white-wine vinegar ; reduce to one half, add a pint of veloute sauce, 
boil a little longer ; finish with finely chopped tarragon, chervil, and 
parsley, and four ounces of butter in small bits. 

Fillet of Beef a la Jardiniere. — Prepare, lard, and cook a fillet 
of "beef as directed [No, 275] ; skim the fat, strain and reduce the 
gravy to the consistency of ademi-glaze with two ladlefuls of espagnole 
sauce ; drain, pare, and dish up the fillet ; surround with a garnishing 
a la jardiniere [No. 7], pour the sauce over the meat, and serve. 

Stewed Okra a 1' Espagnole. — Pare both ends, and wash 
enough tender okra : put it in a sautoir with salt, pepper, a ladleful of 
rich broth, and a pint of tomato and espagnole sauce in equal parts ; 
cover, and stew slowly for half an hour ; dish up carefully without 
breaking the okra, besprinkle Avith chopped parsley, and serve. 

Reed Birds on Toast. — Procure two dozen fat reed birds ; cut 
off the legs and wings, trim the heads, remove the eyes, crops, and giz- 
zards ; cover the breast with small thin slices of bacon, put them by 
threes on small, short skewers ; put in a pan, and roast light brown on 
both sides in a very hot oven for about six minutes ; drain, dish up on 
eight small dry pieces of toast ; add a little broth to the drippings, pour 
this over the birds, surround with water-cress, and serve. 

Gelee aux Fruits. — Clarify three pints of madeira jelly with an 
ounce and a half of gelatine as directed [No. 2] ; let cool partially ; 
pare, and cook separately some fresh fruit, such as pear, peach, and 



426 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

pineapple ; prepare also some raw green-gages and grapes, and drain 
the whole on a sieve ; imbed a cylindrical jelly-mould in ice, pour a 
third of an inch of jelly into it, and let it congeal; add a layer of fruits, 
cover with jelly, freeze again, and so on until the mould is filled ; let 
set thoroughly, and serve in the usual way on a folded napkin. 



No. 257. 

Friday, September 14. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Bouride i la Marseillaise, 

Beef a la mode ; 
Timbale of potatoes. 

Mutton chops with mushrooms ; 
Beet and lettuce salad. 

Souffle a la vanille. 

Bouride S, la Marseillaise. — This is a rather peculiar and 
strongly flavored family dish, and can only be appreciated by persons 
who are fond of garlic : Take about five pounds of firm, salt-water 
fish, such as black-fish, sea-bass, striped bass, eel, and lobster ; scale, 
pare off the fins, and cut in pieces as directed for bouillabaisse [No. 
278] ; put in a saucepan with two cloves of garlic, a bunch of parsley 
with aromatics, a sprig of thyme, two bay-leaves, salt, pepper, and 
ground spices ; cover with a pint of white wine and sufficient water, 
and boil briskly and uncovered for fifteen minutes ; this done, put two 
more cloves of garlic in a small mortar, pound to a pulp with an egg- 
yolk, and mix it with a cup of sweet oil and lemon-juice as you would 
for a mayonnaise sauce ; put this in a saucepan with three egg-yolks, 
stir with an egg-beater, dilute with the fish-broth, and whip on the fire 
until the soup thickens ; pour in a soup-tureen over some thin slices of 
bread previously moistened with fish-broth, and serve with the fish 
separately on a dish. 

Beef ^ la Mode. — Take a rump piece of beef weighing about 
eight pounds ; lard the inside with long, half-inch square shreds of 
fresh fat pork (salt pork gives a reddish tint to the meat) seasoned 
with salt, pepper, ground allspice, chopped parsley, aromatics, and 
garlic ; truss firmly, put in a stewpan with four ounces of beef-fat 
(butter burns too quick), fry briskly and brown all round ; drain the 
fat off ; cover with water, half a gill of brandy, a pint of white wine, 
and a pint of tomato sauce ; add salt, pepper-corns, a bunch of parsley, 
an onion with three cloves stuck in it, half a dozen carrots, and two 
scalded and boned calf's feet ; set to boil, cover, and let simmer three 



COOKERY BOOK, 427 

hours ; this done, skim the fat, strain, and reduce the gravy to a demi- 
glaze with half a pint of espagnole sauce ; drain, untruss, trim a Httle, 
and place the beef on a dish ; surround with the calf's feet, a dozen 
medium-sized glazed onions [No. 338], and the cooked carrots cut in 
two-inch lengths, quartered, and slightly pared ; pour the gravy over 
all, and serve. 

Mutton Chops with Mushrooms. — Pare and flatten eight 
mutton chops ; trim the rib-bone, season with salt and pepper, and put 
in a sautoir with melted butter ; put on a brisk fire, fry light brown on 
both sides, and cook rather rare ; drain the butter off, and put the 
chops on a plate ; put a gill of sherry wine and a pint of espagnole 
sauce in the sautoir ; boil five minutes, add a pint of sliced mushrooms, 
boil a little longer ; put in the chops, but do not boil, dish up in a 
circle alternately with heart-shaped slices of bread fried in butter ; 
pour the mushrooms and sauce in the centre, add small white-paper 
ruffles to the bones, and serve. 

Souffle a la Vanille. — Cut a vanilla-bean in pieces, put in a 
quart of boiling milk ; cover, take off the fire, and let infuse an hour ; 
put six ounces of flour and six ounces of sugar in a saucepan ; dilute 
with the strained vanilla infusion, stir on- the fire until boiling ; take 
off the infusion, add six egg-yolks, and mix well ; beat the six egg- 
whites to a hard froth, mix them quickly and carefully with the above 
preparation, put it in a slightly buttered entremet deep baking-dish, 
sprinkle with powdered sugar, and bake of a nice color in a moderate 
oven for about twenty minutes ; serve immediately. 



No. 258. 

Saturday, September 15. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Consomme with poached eggs. 

Sheep's-head a la Hollandaise ; 
Potatoes a la duchesse. 

Porterhouse steak a la Bearnaise ; 

Fried egg-plant. 

Chicken saute au chasseur ; 
• Vegetable salad. 

. Rice and peach meringued. 

Consomme with Poached Eggs.— Prepare three quarts of rich 
consomme as directed [No. 133] ; boil some slightly salted and acidu- 
lated water in a sautoir, remove to the side of the fire, let drop in it 
one by one and poach soft eight fresh eggs ; cool in cold water, and 



428 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

trim a little ; pour the consomme into a soup-tureen, add the eggs, 
and serve. 

Sheep's-Head a la Hollandaise. — Procure a large fresh sheep's- 
head ; pare off the fins, wash well, secure the head to the body with a 
string, place on the perforated sheet in a fish-kettle filled an inch over 
the fish with salted and acidulated water ; cover with a sheet of paper, 
set to boil, and let simmer on the side of the fire for forty minutes ; 
drain well, slide on a folded napkin, surround with parsley, and serve 
with a hollandaise sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Potatoes a la Duchesse. — Peal and boil sufficient mealy potatoes ; 
drain the water off, cover and put them five minutes in the oven to dry ; 
then add two ounces of butter, salt, white pepper, grated nutmeg, and 
four egg-yolks ; mix quickly, and rub through a colander ; turn on a 
floured table and make twelve balls the size and shape of a large egg ; 
range them on a slightly buttered baking-sheet, flatten a little, trace 
a few notches over, egg the surface, bake light brown in a brisk 
oven, and dish up on a folded napkin. 

Porterhouse Steaks a la Bearnaise. — Procure two large and 
tender porterhouse steaks ; flatten heavily, pare, season with salt and 
pepper, and broil rather rare over a bright charcoal fire ; place on a 
dish, pour a bearnaise sauce over, and serve. 

Bearnaise Sauce. — To make this admirable sauce — a souvenir of 
the mountain home of Henry of Navarre — put in a saucepan two table- 
spoonfuls of chopped shallots and four tablespoonfuls of white-wine 
vinegar ; reduce to one half, add six egg-yolks, two tablespoonfuls of 
beef-extract, and stir on the fire with a wooden spoon until the sauce 
thickens ; remove to the side, and add, a bit at a time, a half-pound 
of good table butter, dropping a little water in when the sauce be- 
comes too thick ; press through a napkin, and finish with finely chop- 
ped tarragon, chervil, parsley, and a pinch of red pepper. 

Chicken Saute au Chasseur. — Singe, draw, and divide two 
spring chickens as for fricassee •, season with salt and pepper, and put 
in a sautoir with two ounces of butter and sweet oil ; fry light brown 
on both sides, drain most of the fat, sprinkle two tablespoonfuls of 
chopped shallots, and fry a little longer; add two glasses of white wine, a 
little broth, half a pint each of tomato and espagnole sauce ; cover, 
boil twenty minutes, finish with two ounces of butter, chopped parsley, 
and the juice of a lemon ; dish in pyramidal form ; pour the sauce 
over, surround with heart-shaped slices of bread fried in butter, and 
serve. 

Rice and Peach Meringued.— Cook half a pint of rice and 



COOKERY BOOK. 429 

peaches as directed [No. 249] ; dish up the rice in a circle and place 
the peaches over it ; mask all over (without filling the centre) with 
a thick layer of meringue [No. 337] ; put more meringue in a fun- 
nel-shaped sheet of strong paper, fold and fasten at the top with a 
pin, and cut a pencil-sized hole at the lower end, then press out the 
meringue- gently and ornament the surface ; sprinkle with powdered 
sugar, and bake of a light color in a slow oven for twenty minutes; 
pour a cup of stirred currant jelly in the centre, and serve hot. 



No. 259. 

Sunday, September 16. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Brunoise. 

Sea-bass with melted butter ; 
Potatoes a la Hollandaise. 

Fricassee of chicken with mushrooms; 
Green peas. 

Woodcock with trail on toast ; 
Chiccory salad. 

Pyramid of ginger ice-cream. 

Brunoise Soup. — Pare and cut in small squares the red part of 
some carrots, turnips, celery and parsley-roots, two white onions, and 
the white of two leeks ; put the onion and leek with two ounces of but- 
ter in a saucepan, cook a little ; add the rest of the vegetables, with salt 
and a teaspoonful of sugar ; cook a little longer until the moisture is 
evaporated ; wet with three quarts of beef-broth [No. 263], and boil 
slowly for an hour ; skim the fat, add a pint of cooked green peas and 
a handful of finely cut sorrel, chervil, and lettuce-leaves; boil two, 
minutes longer, and serve. 

Boiled Sea-Bass with Melted Butter. — Procure two good-( 
sized sea-bass ; cleanse and dress well ; put them in a fish-boiler with 
salted Avater and a gill of vinegar ; cover with a sheet of paper, set to 
boil, and let simmer half an hour ; drain, and dish up on a folded nap- 
kin, surround with parsley, and serve with melted-butter sauce in a 
sauce-bowl. 

Melted-Butter Sauce. — Melt slowly and without boiling half a 
pound of table butter in a saucepan ; add a little white,pepper, grated 
nutmeg, lemon-juice, and mix well with a wooden spoon. 

Fricassee of Chicken. — Singe and draw two fat, tender chickens; 
divide each chicken in about ten pieces ; pare, and steep in water for 
an hour ; drain ; put in a saucepan with fresh water, salt, pepper, and 



430 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

nutmeg, and boil five minutes ; drain in a colander, save the broth ; 
cool, wash, pare again, and drain on a cloth ; return to a saucepan with 
four ounces of butter, stir, and fry briskly until the moisture is evapo- 
rated ; sprinkle with two ounces of flour, mix well, and dilute with the 
broth ; stir to boiling ; add a bunch of parsley with aromatics, and an 
onion with three cloves stuck in it ; cover, and boil for forty minutes ; 
remove the parsley and onion, skim the fat; add a pint of cooked fresh 
mushrooms or a pint of canned ones, a liaison of four egg-yolks [No. 
274], four ounces of butter in small bits, and the juice of a lemon; toss 
gently on the fire without boiling, dish up in pyramidal form, surround 
with heart-shaped slices of bread fried in butter, and serve. 

Woodcock with Trail on Toast. — Pick and singe four or more 
fresh woodcock ; skin the heads, remove the eyes, crops, and gizzards ; 
chop the trail with two chicken-livers, salt, pepper, and an ounce of 
butter, then put this on a plate ; truss the birds nicely, cover the breast 
with thin bardes of fat pork, and roast briskly and rather rare for about 
fifteen minutes ; toast as many slices of bread as there are birds, spread 
the trail over, sprinkle with a few fresh crumbs and bits of butter ; 
place this on a baking-sheet, and cook in the oven for five minutes; put 
them on a dish, range the woodcock over, garnish the lower end with 
water-cress and quartered lemon ; add a ladleful of rich broth to the 
drippings, pour it over the birds, and serve. 

Pyramid of Ginger Ice-Cream. — Put twelve egg-yolks, the rind 
of a lemon, and twelve ounces of sugar in a saucepan ; mix well, dilute 
with three pints of boiled cream, stir on the fire until the cream thick- 
ens, pass through a fine strainer, and stir occasionally while cooling ; 
pound six ounces of preserved ginger, moisten with half a gill of Jamaica 
rum, and rub through a sieve ; put the cream in the freezer, freeze in 
the ordinary way ; add the ginger, mix well, freeze a little longer ; put 
the cream in a pyramid-mould, cover hermetically, imbed for at least 
two hours in salted ice, immerse in tepid water, turn on a folded nap- 
kin, and serve with a dish of lady-fingers. 



COOKERY BOOK, 431 

No. 260. 

Monday, September 17. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Gumbo of crabs a la creole. 

Fried smelt, English style ; 
Parisian potatoes. 

Cold beef k la mode ; 
Sliced tomatoes. 

Roast partridge, currant jelly ; 
Escarole salad. 



Souffle au Parmesan. 

Gumbo of Crabs a la Creole. — Take eight large soft-shell crabs ; 
pare off the small legs, flaps, and gills, which are spongy and generally 
sandy ; wash, drain well, and cut each crab in about eight pieces ; put 
in a saucepan two ounces of butter, two chopped shallots, and two 
ounces of ham cut small ; fry a little, add half a pint of white wine, 
five pints of white broth, salt, pepper, a bunch of parsley with aromat- 
ics, half a green pepper cut small, and finally the crabs ; cover, boil 
slowly for an hour ; remove the parsley, skim the fat, and finish with 
six tablespoonfuls of gumbo-powder, dropped by the left hand raised 
somewhat high, while stirring with the right hand to prevent the soup 
from getting lumpy ; season highly, pour into a soup-tureen, and serve 
with plain-boiled rice on a separate dish. 

Fried Smelt, English Style. — Take three pounds of smelt, 
pare off the fins, clean, wash, and wipe dry ; sprinkle with flour, dip in 
beaten eggs, roll in fine white crumbs ; smooth the fish by rolling on 
the table with the blade of a knife ; put them on eight short skewers 
and fry only the half at a time in plenty of clear, very hot fat ; 
drain on a cloth, salt, dish up on a folded napkin ; surround with 
fried parsley and quartered lemon, and serve. 

Cold Beef d, la Mode. — On the previous day cook some beef a la 
mode as directed [No. 257] ; take a deep earthen dish or salad- 
bowl ; put the beef in it, surround with the onions, carrots, and 
calf's feet cut in small pieces ; pour the well-skimmed gravy over, 
cover with an inverted plate, press down with a weight on top, put 
in the larder and let cool thoroughly ; turn on a dish, surround the 
base with sliced gherkin, and serve. 

A little garlic cooked with the beef improves it for those who live 
by taste rather than by smell ; this dish, either hot or cold, is so good 
and economical that we cannot recommend it too highly. 

Roast Partridge, Currant Jelly.— Choose three or four fat, 
tender partridges (according to size) ; pick, singe, draw, truss nicely ; 



432 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

expose the breast to a brisk fire to stiffen it so as to lard it easily ; fas- 
ten rows of small strips of fat pork on them ; put them on the spit or 
in the roastino--pan and cook them of a nice color for twenty-five min- 
utes • drain untie, dish up on dry toast, and add a handful of water- 
cress • put a little gravy with the drippings, strain it over the birds, and 
serve with a glass of currant jelly turned on a plate. 

Escarole Salad (Broad-Leaved Endive).— Take two escarole 
stalks ; pare off the greenest leaves and wipe the white leaves with a 
soft cloth ; put them in a salad-bowl with chopped tarragon, chives, 
and chervil, and season at the last moment with salt, pepper, oil, and 
vinegar. 

Souffle au Parmesan. — Mix in a saucepan a pint and half of 
milk with six ounces of flour, salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; stir on the fire 
until boiling ; add six egg-yolks and four ounces of grated parmesan 
cheese ; mix quickly and stir a little longer ; beat the six egg-whites 
to a hard froth, mix the whole carefully ; pour this in a slightly but- 
tered deep dish ; sprinkle with grated cheese, and cook of a nice color 
in a moderate oven for about twenty minutes ; serve immediately. 



No. 261. 

Tuesday, September i8. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Sorrel. 

Striped bass, caper sauce ; 
Stewed potatoes. 

Calf's head a la poulette ; 
Succotash. 



Roast teal duck ; 
Celery salad. 

Apple fritters. 

Sorrel Soup. — Take two quarts of sorrel ; pick off the stems, cut 
them in fine shreds, put in a saucepan with two ounces of butter, salt, 
and pepper ; stir on a brisk fire for five minutes, wet with a quart of 
water, three pints of veal-broth, and boil two minutes ; put six egg- 
yolks in a soup-tureen, dilute with half a pint of cream ; add four 
ounces of butter in small bits, and a grated nutmeg ; pour the boiling 
soup over, stirring steadily with a dressing-spoon ; add two french rolls 
cut in thin sippets, and serve. 

Striped Bass, Caper Sauce. — Procure a striped bass weighing 
about five pounds ; pare off the fins, clean, and wash well ; cut an in- 
cision inside, and remove two joints of the spine to prevent the fish's 



COOKERY BOOK. .433 

breaking when it boils ; tie the head to the body with a string, put it 
in a fish-boiler with salted water acidulated with a gill of vinegar • 
cover with a sheet of paper, put on the fire, boil, and then set aside to 
simmer forty minutes ; drain, slide on a folded napkin, surround with 
parsley, and serve with a caper sauce [No. 103] in a sauce-bowl. 

Calf's Head ^ la Poulette. — Procure a well-scalded white calf's 
head ; singe to destroy the remaining hairs, bone carefully, steep in 
water for an hour ; parboil five minutes, cool in cold water, drain, 
scrape off the white skin from the tongue and cheeks ; divide in eight 
or more pieces, put in a saucepan with salted and acidulated water 
whitened with a handful of flour, add a bunch of parsley with aro- 
matics, pepper-corns, a quartered carrot, an onion with four cloves 
stuck in it, and four ounces of beef-suet chopped fine ; set to boil, 
cover, and cook about an hour until tender ; drain on a cloth, trim a 
little, remove the inner part of the ears with an inch-round tin tube, 
and make a few cuts in the small end of the ear to make it curl ; re- 
move the arteries, and cook the brain in salted water with a glass of 
vinegar, allspice, and aromatics ; dish up the head symmetrically, place 
the brain on the centre, pour a poulette sauce over, and serve with 
more sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Poulette Sauce. — Put a knuckle of veal in a saucepan with salt, 
spices, a carrot, an onion, a bunch of parsley with aromatics, and three 
quarts of water ; put on the fire, scum, cover, boil two hours, skim the 
fat, and strain through a napkin ; put in a small saucepan two ounces 
of flour and two ounces of butter, cook a little ; dilute with three pints 
of the above broth, boil ten minutes, skim, and thicken with four egg- 
yolks and four ounces of butter ; stir on the fire without boiling, press 
through a napkin, and finish with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley 
and the juice of half a lemon. 

Roast Teal Duck. — Select four blue-winged, fat teal ; pick, draw, 
singe, truss nicely ; put a little salt inside, and roast rare for about 
fifteen minutes ; dish up with a little rich gravy, and serve with a 
glass of currant jelly turned on a plate. 

Apple Fritters. — Take six large, sound, firm apples ; pare, core> 
cut off a thin slice on top and bottom, and divide each apple in four 
round slices ; put in an earthen bowl with a gill of brandy and sugar 
to steep an hour ; dip one by one in a flour batter [No. 5], and cook 
light brown and crisp in plenty of clear, very hot fat ; drain on a cloth, 
dish up on a folded napkin, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve. 



434 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 262. 

Wednesday, September 19. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Chicken and tomato. 

Baked fillets of sole ; 
Boiled and browned potatoes. 

Noix of veal with cucumbers ; 
' Spinach with crusts. 

Lamb chops a la Soubise ; 
Escarole salad. 

Beignets a la Medicis. 

Chicken and Tomato Soup. — Take a large, tender chicken ; 
singe, draw, and cut in small pieces ; put in a saucepan with two 
ounces of butter, two ounces of lean ham, and an onion cut small ; stir 
on the fire until light brown, strain off the butter, wet with two quarts 
of beef-broth and a pint of water ; add salt, white and a pinch of red 
pepper, and a bunch of parsley with aromatics ; scald, peel, press the 
seeds out, and cut a dozen tomatoes in quarters ; put them with the 
soup, cover, and cook an hour ; skim the fat, remove the parsley, pour 
in a soup-tureen, and serve. 

Baked Fillets of Sole. — Take the fillets of two large flounders ; 
pare off the skin, fold in two, flatten, and trim a little ; range in a row, 
one overlapping the other, on a buttered baking-dish ; add salt, pepper, 
chopped onion, parsley and mushrooms, a gill of white wine, a gill of 
white broth, bits of butter, and cook twenty minutes, basting occasion- 
ally with the gravy ; mask with well-reduced espagnole sauce, sprinkle 
with rasped bread-crust, add small bits of butter atop, and bake fifteen 
minutes longer ; press the juice of a lemon over, and serve in the 
baking-dish. 

Noix of Veal with Cucumbers. — Prepare and cook a noix of 
veal as directed [No. 204] ; place on a dish, surround with a garnish- 
ing of cucumbers [No. 229] stewed with a pint of reduced veal gravy ; 
pour the rest of the gravy over the larding, and serve. 

Espagnole Sauce. — Cut small and put in a saucepan two car- 
rots, two onions, hal-f a pound of lean veal, a bunch of parsley with 
aromatics, pepper-corns, a hock of ham cut in pieces, and four ounces 
of butter ; stir on a brisk fire until light brown ; drain the butter off, 
wet with six quarts of beef-broth, half a pint of sherry wine, and a 
pint of tomatoes ; boil an hour, melt six ounces of butter in a sauce- 
pan, add half a pound of the best wheat flour, stir on a slow fire with 
a wooden spoon until light brown, cool a little by immersing the bottom 
of the saucepan in cold water ; dilute gradually and carefully with the 



COOKERY BOOK. 435 

above-strained and skimmed preparation, stir to boiling, set by the 
side of the fire and boil an hour longer, adding more broth if the sauce 
is too thick ; skim, press through a napkin, stir occasionally while cool- 
ing, and keep till wanted. 

This ought to make about a gallon of sauce, but a small quantity 
can easily be made by reducing the proportions exactly ; as it is the 
principal ingredient in an infinite number of preparations, we give 
the most particular attention to its composition. 

Lamb Chops a la Soubise. — Procure eight large fat lamb chops ; 
flatten, pare, season with salt and pepper, and broil nicely ; dish in a 
circle, alternating with heart-shaped slices of bread fried in butter ; 
pour a soubise sauce [No. 337] in the centre, add paper-ruffles to the 
bones, and serve. 

Beignets ^ la Medicis. — Prepare and fry enough queen fritters 
as directed [No. 255] ; besprinkle with powdered sugar, dish up on a 
folded napkin, and serve with the following sauce in a compot-bowl : 
Dissolve half an ounce of gelatine with hal^ a gill of boiling water ; 
melt in a saucepan two ounces of plain chocolate, add four egg-yolks 
and four ounces of sugar, and dilute with half a pint of milk ; stir on 
the fire until the preparation thickens, add the gelatine and a few 
drops of vanilla-extract, press through a napkin, stir and cool until it 
begins to congeal ; mix with sufficient well-whipt cream [No. 77], and 
serve. 



No. 263. 

Thursday, September 20. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Rice. 

Boiled haddock, egg sauce ; 
Mashed potatoes. 

Compote of pigeon with peas ; 
Sweet potatoes a la Richmond. 

Fore-quarter of lamb, English style ; 
String-bean salad. 

Peaches a la Richelieu. 

Rice Soup. — Prepare a beef-broth as follows : Put four 
pounds of soup-beef in a soup-pot with two gallons of cold water 
and two tablespoonfuls of salt ; boil slowly, remove the scum ; 
add carrots, turnips, an onion with three cloves stuck in it, a clove 
of garlic, two leeks and a stalk of celery tied together ; cover par- 
tially, add a little water when required to replace that evaporated, and 
let simmer five hours ; color slightly with a few drops of caramel ; then 
skim the fat, and strain through a wet napkin. 



436 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Wash well half a pound of rice, parboil in water, cool in cold 
water, drain, and then cook it with a quart of beef-broth for twenty 
minutes ; pour into a soup-tureen, add two more quarts of broth, and 
serve. 

Boiled Haddock, Egg Sauce. — Procure a six-pound very fresh 
haddock ; scale, cut off the fins, cleanse, and wash well ; truss the 
head to the body with a string, put in a boiler with salted and acidu- 
lated water an inch over the fish ; cover with a sheet of paper, boil 
and then let simmer by the side of the fire for half an hour ; drain, 
slide on a folded napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve with an egg 
sauce [No. 279] in a sauce-bowl. 

Compote of Pigeon with Peas. — Take four fat and tender 
pigeons ; singe, draw, and dress nicely ; cut in small squares and put 
four ounces of streaky, salt-pork in a saucepan with four ounces of 
butter ; fry light brown, add the pigeons, fry a little longer, drain off 
most of the fat, sprinkle an ounce of flour over the birds, mingle 
and dilute with a quart of broth, add pepper and a bunch of pars- 
ley with aromatics ; cover and boil fifteen minutes ; then put in a 
quart of fresh-shelled green peas and a dozen small onions previously 
browned in butter ; cover again and boil half an hour longer ; re- 
move the parsley, skim the fat, dish up the pigeons, reduce the sauce 
to the desired consistency, pour over the birds, and serve. 

Fore-quarter of Lamb, English Style. — Remove the scrag 
from a fat and white fore-quarter of lamb ; cut off the spine, trim 
round the chops, crack the breast-bones, fold the breast inside and 
tie with a string so as to prevent the chops being cooked before the 
shoulder ; put it in the roasting-pan and cook about an hour (accord- 
ing to size) ; then cut the strings, open the full width, turn over so as 
to cook the inside, and roast fifteen minutes longer ; at the moment 
of serving, v/ith a sharp-pointed knife raise the shoulder slightly and 
introduce between it and the ribs a mellow maitre d' hotel sauce 
[No. 276] ; dish up, surround with alternate groups of flowerets of 
cauliflower and large olive-shaped fried potatoes, and serve with a 
rich gravy in a sauce-bowl. 

Peaches ^ la Richelieu. — Take eight large peaches ; cut them 
in halves, parboil in syrup, peel, drain on a hair-sieve, and reduce the 
syrup with a glass of kirschwasser and a glass of maraschino liqueur ; 
have four ounces of large lady-fingers, cut them crosswise in two, 
moisten slightly with part of the syrup, dish up in a circle, range the 
peaches over the cake, garnish with the blanched peach kernels, 
raisins, limes, citron, etc., and, at the last moment, pour the rest of the 
syrup over, and serve hot. 



COOKERY BOOK. 437 

No. 264. 

Friday, September 21. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Puree of cucumbers a la reine. 

Fried soft-shell crabs ; 
Saratoga potatoes. 

Hashed lamb a la Proven9ale ; 
Lima-beans suutes in butter. 



Roast beef a la Parmentier ; 
Lettuce salad. 



Rice croquettes, lemon sauce. 

Puree of Cucumbers k la Reine. — Pare eight large green 
cucumbers, slit them in quarters, remove the seeds, slice, parboil, and 
drain well ; put in a saucepan with four ounces of butter, salt, pepper, 
and nutmeg ; cover, and cook slowly for an hour ; melt in another 
saucepan five ounces of butter with six ounces of flour ; stir on the fire 
without allowing to brown ; dilute with the cucumbers two quarts of 
chicken-broth and a quart of boiled cream ; set to boil, stirring con- 
tinually for ten minutes ; rub through a fine sieve, stir to a boil again, 
add more broth if required ; finish v/ith two ounces of butter, a cup of 
raw cream, and a teaspoonful of sugar ; pour into a soup-tureen, and 
serve with small squares of bread fried in butter separately on a plate. 

Fried Soft-Shell Crabs. — Remove the flap and gill, and shorten 
the small legs of a dozen soft-shell crabs ; wash carefully, and drain in 
a cloth ; sprinkle with flour, dip in beaten eggs, roll in pulverized 
crackers, and fry them, only six at a time, slightly crisp and brown in 
plenty of clear, very hot fat ; drain on a cloth, salt, dish up on a folded 
napkin, surround with fried parsley and quartered lemon, and serve. 

Hashed Lamb a la Proven9ale. — Pare off the fat and chop 
fine some cold roast lamb (supposing enough to have been left over at 
the previous dinner) ; chop an onion, put it in a saucepan, with two 
ounces of butter, and fry a little ; add the lamb, salt, pepper, nutmeg, 
and two ladlefuls of espagnole sauce ; stir on the fire without boiling, 
but to a boiling heat ; dish up in a dome form, sprinkle with chopped 
parsley, surround with eight large tomatoes stuffed a la Provengale 
[No. 141] and a ladleful of demi-glaze sauce, and serve. 

Lima-Beans Sautes in Butter. — Take three pints of fresh- 
shelled lima beans, put them in salted boiling water, and cook till ten- 
der ; drain, put in a sautoir, with salt, pepper, and four ounces of 
butter ; toss on a brisk fire for a few minutes, add chopped parsley and 
lemon-juice, toss again, and serve. 

Roast Beef a la Parmentier. — Take a pretty thick, fat, and 



438 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

tender two-rib piece of beef ; saw off the spine, pare a little, shorten 
the ribs, truss firmly with small cord and skewers ; salt, put on a wire- 
lining in a roasting-pan with a glass of water and half a pound of beef- 
suet cut small ; put in the oven, and roast about an hour, turning the 
beef occasionally, and basting with the fat ; remove the wire lining (by 
this time the water ought to have evaporated) ; add a dozen raw, large 
peeled potatoes, roll them in the fat, and roast the whole for half an 
hour longer ; untruss, pare, and dish up the beef ; surround with the 
potatoes, and serve with a sauce-bowl of rich gravy and grated horse- 
radish separately on a dish. 

Rice Croquettes, Lemon Sauce. — Wash well and put a 
pound of rice in a saucepan with three pints of milk, six ounces of 
sugar, two ounces of butter, and the rind of a lemon ; stir to a boil, 
cover, and cook half an hour ; remove the lemon, add four egg-yolks, 
mix well, and cool partially • strew bread-crumbs on the table, 
turn the rice over, divide, and roll it in a dozen large cork-shaped cro- 
quettes ; dip in beaten eggs, roll in fresh crumbs, and fry light brown 
in plenty of clear, very hot fat ; drain, dish up on a folded napkin, 
sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve with a lemon sauce in a 
sauce-bowl. 

Lemon Sauce. — Put in a saucepan four egg-yolks, four ounces of 
sugar, an ounce of corn-starch, and the rind of a lemon chopped fine ; 
mix well, dilute with a pint of boiling milk, put on the fire, stir briskly 
with an egg-beater until the sauce thickens, and serve. 



No. 265. 

Saturday, September 22. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Mock turtle. 

Baked king-fish with fine herbs ; 
Potato croquettes. 

Boiled chicken a 1' Allemande ] 
Cauliflowers, white sauce. 



Mutton chops, tomato sauce ; 
Chiccory salad. 

Apples i la Portugaise. 

Mock-Turtle Soup. — Cook a small calf's head as directed [No. 
261] ; let cool, pare off the fat, cut in half-inch squares, put in a sauce- 
pan with half^a pint of madeira wine, a pinch of red pepper, and two 
tablespoonfuls of " Harvey's sauce " ; let simmer five minutes, add a 
quart of beef-broth and two quarts of espagnole sauce [No. 262J ; boil 



COOKERY BOOK. 



439 



slowly for twenty minutes, skim, pour into a soup-tureen over a pared 
lemon cut in thin slices, and serve. 

Baked King-Fish with Fine Herbs. — Have four well-cleaned 
medium-sized king-fish ; cut off the fins, make a lengthwise incision 
from head to tail on each side, and place them on a buttered baking- 
dish ; strew with chopped shallots, parsley, and mushrooms ; add salt, 
pepper, small bits of butter in the incisions, and two glasses of white 
wine ; cook slowly in the oven, and baste occasionally with the liquid ; 
then mask with sufficient well-reduced espagnole sauce, sprinkle with 
rasped crust of bread, and bake to a nice color for fifteen minutes 
longer ; pi;ess the juice of a lemon over, and serve in the baking-dish. 

Boiled Chicken ^ 1' Allemande. — Singe and draw two fat and 
tender chickens ; put a piece of butter inside, pare off the neck and 
legs, and truss nicely ; cover the breast with thin bardes of fat pork, 
put them in a saucepan with salt, a carrot, an onion with three cloves 
stuck in it, a bunch of parsley with aromatics, two leeks, and a celery- 
stalk ; cover with water, start briskly, then boil slowly for about fifty 
minutes ; drain, untie, remove the lard, place the chickens on a dish, 
pour an allemande sauce over, and serve. 

Allemande Sauce. — Put two ounces of flour with two ounces of 
melted butter in a saucepan ; stir a few minutes on the fire without 
allowing to brown ; dilute with three pints of well-skimmed and strained 
chicken-broth, stir to a boil, season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and 
boil half an hour ; skim, finish with a liaison of four egg-yolks, four 
ounces of butter, a little cream, and lemon-juice ; stir on the fire 
so as to cook the eggs without boiling the sauce, and press immediately 
through a napkin. 

Mutton Chops, Tomato Sauce. — Pare and flatten eight fat- 
covered mutton chops ; trim the ribs, season with salt and pepper^ 
baste with melted butter, roll in fresh crumbs, and broil slowly and 
rather rare over a moderate charcoal fire ; dish up in a circle, pour a 
tomato sauce [No. 197I in the centre, put small white-paper ruffles on 
the bones, and serve. 

Apples a la Portugaise. — Remove the cores, and pare eight or 
more large firm cooking-apples ; rub with a half lemon to maintain 
the whiteness while cooking ; boil carefully in syrup, drain on a hair- 
sieve, and reduce the syrup to the desired consistency with two glasses 
of maraschino liqueur ; range the apples on a compot-dish, fill the hole 
in the centre of the apples with currant-jelly, put a large cherry or a 
small plum over the jelly, pour the syrup over all, and serve. 



440 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 266. 

Sunday, September 23. — Bill of fare for eight persons 

Soup : Colbert, with eggs. 

Boiled salmon, anchovy sauce : 
Boiled potatoes. 

Loin of veal with lettuce ; 
Fried egg-plant. 

Prairie chicken, bread sauce ; 
Tomato salad. 



Pineapple cream a la Russe. 

Colbert, with Eggs.— Prepare three quarts of printaniere soup 
[No. 251] ; pour in a soup-tureen, add eight soft-poached eggs [No. 
259], and serve immediately. 

Boiled Salmon, Anchovy Sauce.— Take a piece of or a small 
salmon weighing about six pounds (if there is any left it will make an 
appetizing dish for breakfast when dressed with a vinaigrette or tartar 
sauce) ; cleanse and wash well, put in a boiler with salted and acidu- 
lated water an inch over the fish, a bunch of parsley with aromatics, 
and pepper-corns, allspice, and cloves ; tie these spices in a small 
cloth so as to extract the flavor without running the risk of serving 
them with the fish ; cover with a sheet of white paper, start slowly to 
a boil, and set by the fire to simmer forty minutes ; drain, slide on a 
folded napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve with an anchovy sauce 
iu a sauce-bowl. 

Anchovy Sauce. — Knead an ounce of flour with two ounces of 
fresh butter ; dilute with a pint of boiling water, stir to a boil, add a 
liaison of two egg-yolks, and mix well without boiling ; put four table- 
spoonfuls of anchovy-essence, four ounces of fresh butter, and lemon- 
juice, and press through a napkin. We recommend fresh butter be- 
cause the anchovy is salt enough ; if no fresh butter is on hand, wash 
the best you have thoroughly in fresh water before using. 

Loin of Veal with Lettuce. — Procure a loin of white and fat 
veal with the kidney attached ; saw off the spine, roll and truss firmly, 
put in a sautoir with two ounces of butter, and fry light brown all 
round ; drain off the butter, add salt, a quartered carrot, an onion, a 
bunch of parsley with aromatics, a quart of water, half a pint of white 
wine, and a pint of tomato and espagnole sauce in equal parts ; cover 
and cook in a moderate oven for two hours, sprinkling occasionally 
with the gravy so as to glaze of a nice color ; strain, skim the fat, and 
reduce the gravy to a demi-glaze sauce ; untruss, pare, and put the veal 
on a dish, surround with braised lettuce, pour the sauce over, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 441 

Braised Lettuce. — Remove the outer leaves, pare, and parboil for 
five minutes a dozen lettuce-stalks ; cool in water, press the water out, 
spread the lettuce on a towel, season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; 
form the heads nicely, fold in two, tie with a string, range in a buttered 
sautoir, moisten with a half pint of white broth, cover, and cook an 
hour ; drain on a cloth, untie, shape nicely, return to the sautoir, and 
let simmer a few minutes with two ladlefuls of demi-glaze sauce. 

Prairie Chicken, Bread Sauce. — Prepare, dress, and cook three 
prairie chickens as directed [No. 249] for partridge, and serve with a 
bread sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Pineapple Cream a la Russe. — Pare off, cut fine, and pound two 
pounds of pineapple to a pulp; add the juice of a lemon and rub through 
a fine sieve into an earthen vessel ; add ten ounces of powdered sugar 
and an ounce of gelatine diluted with two gills of water ; stir on ice 
until the preparation begins to congeal, mix with a quart of whipt 
cream, pour into a plain cylindrical sweet-meat mould, cover hermeti- 
cally by closing the chinks with a little butter, and imbed in salted ice 
for at least two hours ; immerse in lukewarm water, wipe the mould, 
turn upon a folded napkin, and serve. 



No. 267. 

Monday, September 24. — Bill of fare for eight persons ; 

Soup : Bisque of oysters, 

Pampano a la maitre d' hotel ; 
Potatoes saulees. 



Fricandeau of veal with sorrel ; 
Boiled sweet potatoes. 

Roast woodcock on toast ; 
Escarole salad. 

Omelet soufflee, fleur d' orange. 

Bisque of Oysters. — Put two quarts of oysters in a saucepan 
with white pepper, nutmeg, two blades of mace, a bay-leaf, a pinch of 
red pepper, two ounces of butter, and a pint of white broth ; cover, 
boil ten minutes, drain in a colander, and save the liquor ; then chop 
the oysters very fine, and put them on a plate ; knead five ounces of 
flour m a saucepan with four ounces of melted butter, stir, and cook a 
little without allowing to brown, dilute with three pints of boiled milk 
and the oyster liquor ; add the oysters, stir steadily, and boil ten min- 
utes ; rub through a very fine sieve, add more milk if required, stir, 
and boil agam ; finish with half a pint of raw cream, and four ounces 



442 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

of butter in small bits ; taste, pour in a soup-tureen, and serve with 
small squares of bread fried in butter, separately on a plate. 

Pampano a la Maitre d' Hotel. — Pampano is one of the most 
delicious southern fish, latterly very abundant in New York markets 
at this time of the year. Take two or three pampanos, according to 
size ; pare off the fins, clean nicely, wipe dry, cut slight incisions on 
each side, baste with sweet oil, season with salt and pepper, and broil 
slowly and of a nice color ; place on a dish, mask with a mellow maitre 
d' hotel sauce [No. 276], surround with quartered lemon, and serve. 

Fricandeau of Veal with Sorrel. — Attach strips of fat pork to a 
fricandeau of veal, preparing and cooking as directed [No. 204] ; dish 
up on a puree of sorrel, pour the reduced gravy over, and serve. 

Puree of Sorrel. — Pick off the stems of enough sorrel-leaves, wash 
well two or three times in water, changing the pan every time to take 
off all the sand ; drain well, put in a saucepan on a brisk fire with four 
ounces of melted butter, stir, and boil ten minutes ; cook two ounces 
of flour with a chopped onion and four ounces of butter in another 
saucepan, dilute with the sorrel and a little broth, season with salt and 
pepper, stir, and boil ten minutes again ; add a liaison of six egg-yolks, 
mix on the fire without boiling, finish with a cup of raw cream, and 
rub through a fine colander. This puree must be kept pretty thick. 

Roast Woodcock on Toast. — Prepare and singe four woodcock 
as directed [No. 259] ; remove the eyes, crop, and gizzard, leave the 
trail in if desired, and if the birds are not too gamy ; truss, cover the 
breast with thin bardes of fat pork, and roast them rare ; range on dry 
toast, garnish with water-cress and quartered lemon, add a glass of 
white wine to the drippings, strain this over the birds, and serve. 

Omelet Soufflee, Fleur d' Orange.— Put six egg-yolks in a 
large bowl with a teaspoonful of orange-flavored water and five ounces 
of sugar ; stir with a wooden spoon until very smooth and frothy ; beat 
in an egg-basin ten egg-whites to a hard froth, mix quickly and care- 
fully with the yolks, drop on a slightly buttered sweet-meat baking- 
dish, piling as high as possible ; smooth the surface, slit it deeply in 
the centre, trace a few notches on each side, cook in a moderately 
heated oven for about fifteen minutes ; sprinkle with powdered sugar, 
and serve immediately. 



COOKERY BOOK. 443 

No. 268. 

Tuesday, September 25. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Printanier, a la royale. 

Black-fish, port-wine sauce ; 
Potatoes a la duchesse. 



Boiled turkey, celery sauce ; 
Green peas. 

Roast loin of beef ; 
Salad e Russe. 



Rice cake. 

Printanier, ^ la Royale. — Prepare a printanier soup with three 
quarts of beef -broth as directed [No. 251], and make a garnishing a la 
royale in the following way : Break in a bowl twelve egg-yolks and two 
whole eggs ; add salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and dilute with a pint of 
boiled cream ; press through a fine cloth, pour into eight small slightly 
buttered timbale-moulds, cook in a sautoir with boiling water to half 
their height, and let cool partially ; pour the soup into a tureen and 
turn the timbales in tepid water so as to pare them a little ; cut each 
one in four or more pieces, put with the soup, and serve. 

Black-Fish, Port-Wine Sauce. — Scrape, wash well in hot 
water, and pare off the fins of two good-sized black-fish ; put in a fish- 
pan with a half pint of port wine, a pint of white broth and water in 
equal parts, salt, pepper, a bunch of parsley with aromatics ; cover and 
let simmer forty minutes, drain the fish, add a pint of espagnole sauce 
[No. 262] in the pan, reduce to the desired consistency, and press 
through a napkin ; add four ounces of butter, lemon-juice, and a pinch 
of red pepper ; dish up the fish, pour the sauce over, and serve. 

Boiled Turkey, Celery Sauce. — Singe, draw, truss nicely, and 
boil a tender, dry-picked turkey as directed [No. 265] for chicken • 
make an allemande sauce with the broth as directed in the same num- 
ber ; drain, untruss, and dish up the turkey, pour a celery sauce over, 
and serve. 

Celery Sauce. — Take the white part of four heads of celery ; cut 
in inch-lengths, wash well, parboil five minutes, drain, put in a sauce- 
pan with half a pint of turkey-broth, and boil until done and the broth 
mostly evaporated ; then mix with sufficient allemande sauce. 

Roast Loin of Beef. — Procure a two-joint middle-cut from a 
thick, tender, and fat loin of beef, and saw off the spine ; if necessary 
pare off the superfluous fat, but do not uncover the tenderloin ; fold 
and tie firmly, and roast for about an hour and a half, according to 
size, quality, and condition of the meat ; let rest a while so that the 



444 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

meat may lose its stiffness ; dish up, and serve with a rich gravy in a 
sauce-bowl and grated horseradish on a plate. 

Salade Russe. — Prepare a vegetable salad as directed [No. 63] ; 
season with salt, white and a pinch of red pepper, oil, vinegar, and four 
tablespoonfuls of melted meat jelly ; garnish with russian caviare, 
strips of red herring, anchovy, and smoked salmon, and thin slices of 
roasted poultry or game. It is essentially a salad of the season, and 
should be served very cold. 

Rice Cake a la Vanille. — Wash well, parboil, drain, and put a 
pound and a half of rice in a saucepan with three pints of milk, six 
ounces of sugar, a vanilla-bean cut in four or five pieces, and two 
ounces of butter ; stir to a boil, cover, and cook slowly for forty min- 
utes ; remove the vanilla, add four well-beaten eggs, four ounces of 
hardly melted butter ; then mix quickly and well ; butter a plain char- 
lotte-mould, sprinkle with bread-crumbs, roll beaten eggs all round it, and 
bread-crumb again ; fill with the rice, sprinkle bread-crumbs again, 
and bits of butter over ; place on a baking-sheet and bake in a mod- 
erate oven for forty minutes ; invert on a dish, let stand a while, re- 
move the mould, pour a vanilla sauce [No. 241] around, and serve with 
more sauce in a bcwl. 



No. S69. 

Wednesday, September 26. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Pea, aux croutons. 

Eel in matelote a la St. Ouen ; 
Parisian potatoes. 

Leg of mutton a la paysanne ; 
Wild mushrooms on toast. 

Squabs a la crapaudine ; 
Chiccory salad. 

Cream croquettes. 

Pea Soup aux CroOtons. — Take a quart of dry split peas, wash 
well; put in a saucepan with salt, pepper, a small hock of ham, a bunch 
of parsley with aromatics, a quartered carrot, an onion with three cloves 
stuck in it, two leeks and a stalk of celery tied together ; wet with two 
quarts of water and a quart of white broth, boil, cover, and cook slowly 
for two hours ; remove the ham and vegetables, and rub the puree 
through a fine sieve ; return the residue to a saucepan, add more broth if 
necessary, stir to a boiling, set by the side of the fire, and let simmer 
for fifteen minutes, skim all the froth as it rises to the surface ; finish 
with four ounces of butter and a tablespoonful of sugar, pour into a 



COOKERY BOOK, 445 

soup-tureen, and serve with small squares of bread (crotitons) fried in 
butter, separately on a plate. 

Eel in Matelote a la St. Ouen. — Take three pounds of large 
eels ; pare and wash them well, cut in four-inch lengths ; put in a 
saucepan with salt, pepper, a clove of garlic, and a garnished bunch 
of parsley ; wet with enough claret and water in equal parts to cover 
the fish and boil fifteen minutes ; stir two ounces of flour and two 
ounces of butter into another saucepan until light brown ; dilute with 
the eel-broth and boil fifteen minutes longer ; skim the fat, add four 
ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of anchovy essence and lemon-juice, 
and press through a napkin ; put the eel in this sauce with a pint of 
cooked mushrooms and two dozen small onions slightly browned and 
cooked in butter ; dish up in pyramidal form, pour the sauce and 
garnishing over, surround with heart-shaped slices of bread fried in 
butter alternately with eight boiled crayfish, and serve. 

Parisian Potatoes. — With a large round vegetable-scoop, scoop 
out enough potatoes ; parboil three minutes, drain, put in a sautoir 
(flat saucepan) with half a pound of clarified butter ; fry of a nice 
color, drain, sprinkle with salt and chopped parsley, and serve. 

Leg of Mutton a la Paysanne. — Prepare and cook a leg of 
mutton exactly as directed [No. 212] ; put on a dish, surround with a 
garnishing a la paysanne, add a paper ruffle to the handle, and serve. 

Garnishing a la Paysanne. — Skim the fat and strain the meat- 
(mutton) gravy in a sautoir ; add some carrots and turnips cut in half- 
inch rounds, parsley-xeaves, a finely sliced onion, and two pared and 
seedless tomatoes cut small ; cover and cook slowly for forty minutes, 
and see that the gravy is well reduced. 

Squabs a la Crapaudine. — Singe and dress four squabs, thrust 
the stumps inside, cut and partly raise the breast, commencing at the 
lower end of the wings ; spread them on the table, flatten slightly, 
season with salt and pepper, baste with melted butter, roll in fresh 
white crumbs, put in a double gridiron, and broil slowly and of a 
nice color ; dish up, garnish the edge of the dish with sliced gherkins, 
pour a piquante sauce [No. 351] round the birds, and serve. 

Cream Croquettes. — Put six eggs in a saucepan with half a 
pound of sifted flour, a pinch of salt, and the rind of a lemon chop- 
ped fine ; work well with a wooden spoon until very smooth ; dilute 
with a quart of milk, stir steadily on the fire, and boil fifteen minutes ; 
add at once four egg-yolks and four ounces of powdered sugar, mix 
well, pour into a slightly oiled dish-pan, and cool thoroughly ; strew 
dry crumbs on the table, turn the cream over, divide in oblong or 



446 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

lozenge pieces about two inches wide by three inches long ; dip in 
beaten eggs, roll in fine crumbs, fry them briskly and light brown, 
sprinkle with powdered sugar, and dish up on a folded napkin. 



No. 270. 

Thursday, September 27. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Macaroni. 

Boiled halibut, Bechamel sauce ; 
Hashed potatoes with cream. 

Boiled ham, Madeira sauce ; 
Mashed spinach with crusts. 

Roast Philadelphia chickens ; 
Beet and lettuce salad. 



Croutes aux peches. 

Macaroni Soup. — Boil half a pound of macaroni in slightly salted 
water for fifteen minutes ; cool, drain on a cloth, put in a saucepan 
with three quarts of beef-broth [No. 263], and boil ten minutes ; skim, 
pour into a soup-tureen, and serve with grated parmesan cheese sepa- 
rately on a plate. 

Boiled Halibut a la Bechamel. — Take a middle-cut of halibut 
weighing about four pounds ; wash well, put in a saucepan with cold, 
salted water to an inch over the fish, cover with a sheet of paper, start 
slowly, and let simmer forty minutes ; drain, dish up on a folded nap- 
kin, garnish with parsley, and serve with a bechamel sauce in a sauce- 
bowl. 

Bechamel Sauce. — Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan with 
two ounces of flour ; stir a few minutes on the fire without allowing to 
brown ; dilute with a quart of milk ; add a little salt, white pepper, 
grated nutmeg, and a bay-leaf ; boil and stir again for ten minutes 
longer ; finish with four ounces of butter and a pinch of sugar, and 
press through a napkin. 

Boiled Ham, Madeira Sauce. — Select a ham of about twelve 
pounds, not too fat nor too lean ; steep in cold water overnight, and 
boil slowly for three hours ; drain on a dish, take off the rind, sprinkle 
with granulated sugar, put in the oven with two glasses of madeira 
wine, and glaze to a nice color, basting occasionally with the wine ; 
trim the hock-bone, ornament it with a fancifully made paper ruffle, 
place on a dish ; pour madeira sauce round the ham, and serve with 
more sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Madeira Sauce. — Put a quart of espagnole sauce [No. 262] in a 



COOKERY BOOK. 447 

saucepan with a pinch of red pepper, a ladleful of tomato sauce, and a 
gill of madeira wine ; stir steadily, and boil briskly for ten minutes ; 
then press through a napkin. 

Mashed Spinach with Crusts. — Prepare enough pretty stiff 
mashed spinach as directed [No. 61] ; pour into a vegetable-dish, sur- 
round with triangle-shaped slices of fresh bread fried light brown and 
soft inside in clarified butter, and serve. 

Roast Philadelphia Chickens. — Choose two fat and tender dry- 
picked Philadelphia chickens ; singe, draw, and pare off the gall blad' 
der ; roll the livers in a thin slice of fat pork, fill the place of the crop 
with them, and put a piece of butter inside the chickens ; dress nicely, 
cover the breast with thin bardes of salt pork, and roast on the spit 
or in the oven for forty minutes ; salt a little, take off the strings, dish 
up, strain the drippings over, and serve. 

Croutes aux Peches. — Prepare and cook a dozen peaches as 
directed [No. 249], and drain them on a sieve ; cut two-inch wide by 
three-inch long thin slices of sponge-cake, sprinkle Avith maraschino 
liqueur and powdered sugar, and glaze slightly in the oven ; spread 
some peach marmalade on a dish, arrange the sponge-cake in a circle 
on the marmalade, then place the peaches over it ; garnish with candied 
fruit, such as citron, angelica, limes, raisins, etc. ; reduce the syrup 
with two glasses of maraschino liqueur, pour it over the peaches, and 
serve hot. 



No. 271. 

Friday, September 28. — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup : Oyster and okra. 

Boiled lake-trout, lobster sauce ; 
Mashed potatoes. 

Rump of beef a 1' Espagnole ; 
Wild mushrooms with fine herbs. 



Roast turkey, cranberry sauce ; 
Celery salad. 

Cabinet pudding. 

Oyster and Okra Soup. — Boil fifty large oysters with their 
liquor, a little water, white pepper, nutmeg, very little salt, and a piece 
of butter ; when cooked take the oysters out with a skimmer and pass 
the liquor through a fine strainer ; then put in another saucepan two 
ounces of butter, a chopped onion, and two ounces of lean ham cut 
small ; fry slowly for five minutes, add to these two quarts of beef or 
veal broth, the oyster liquor, four tablespoonfuls of rice, eight peeled 



448 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

and quartered raw tomatoes, half a green pepper cut fine, and about 
fifty small pared okras cut in small rounds ; boil slowly for half an 
hour, add the oysters, boil again, skim well, and serve. This is also 
served with plain boiled rice in a separate dish, and none in the soup. 

Boiled Lake-Trout, Lobster Sauce. — Take a trout weighing 
about five pounds ; cleanse, dress, and cook as directed for salmon 
[No. 266] ; drain, slide on a folded napkin, garnish with parsley, and 
serve with a lobster sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Lobster Sauce. — Knead an ounce of flour with two ounces of 
butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a pinch of red pepper ; dilute with a 
pint of boiling water, boil a minute ; add four ounces of butter, the 
juice of half a lemon, a teaspoonful of anchovy-essence, and tint slight- 
ly with a piece of red lobster-butter [No. 283] ; press through a napkin, 
and finish with half a pint of lobster meat cut in small squares. 

Rump of Beef a T Espagnole. — Take a rump piece of beef 
weighing about eight pounds ; insert strips of raw ham and fat pork, 
and cook as directed [No. 131] ; place on a dish, surround with toma- 
toes stuffed a 1' espagnole [No. 206] ; pour the reduced gravy over the 
beef, and serve. 

Wild Mushrooms with Fine Herbs. — Pare off the ground-end 
of the stalks and wash enough fresh-gathered wild mushrooms ; drain 
on a cloth, put in a large omelet-pan with four ounces of melted but- 
ter, salt and pepper, and cook on a very brisk fire ; add lemon-juice 
and chopped parsley ; mix well, and serve on dry toast. 

Roast Turkey, Cranberry Sauce. — Singe and draw a large, 
dry-picked spring turkey ; pare off the neck, legs, and wings ; stuff 
it [No. 33] ; truss nicely, and roast to a nice color for about an hour 
and a quarter ; untie, place on a dish, put a handful of cress at the 
lower end, and serve with cranberry sauce in a glass bowl. 

Cranberry Sauce. — Wash two pounds of cranberries ; drain, put 
in a saucepan with two pounds of sugar ; cover, and cook slowly for 
half an hour ; remove the cover, stir, and reduce briskly until the liquid 
stiffens, when a few drops are put in a cool place for a minute or two ; 
if sufficiently stiff, turn into an earthen vessel, and cool thoroughly. 

Cabinet Pudding. — Have a plain tin or copper mould well but- 
fered ; ornament with raisins, citron, and dry cherries ; fill the mould 
with alternate layers of sponge-cake, macaroons, and preserved fruit ; 
then fill up again with an uncooked custard made with twelve egg- 
yolks, three whole eggs, half a pound of sugar, a quart of milk, a glass 
of madeira wine, and the grated rind of a lemon ; steam the pudding 
in boiling water for two hours, boil slowly, and be careful not to let the 



COOKERY BOOK. 449 

water boil over the mould ; when done turn on a dish, pour a lemon 
sauce [No. 264] round the pudding, and serve. 



No, 272. 

Saturday, September 29. — Bill of fare for eight persons ; 

Soup : Puree of celery. 

Stewed terrapin, Maryland style. 

Sweetbreads with green peas ; 
Baked spaghetti. 

Hind-quarter of lannb, Colbert sauce ; 
Potato salad. 



Pears with rice. 

Pur^e of Celery. — Take two bunches of celery (about eight 
heads) ; pare off the green parts, cut in small pieces, wash well, par- 
boil five minutes, drain ; put in a saucepan with four ounces of butter, 
salt, pepper, nutmeg, and two ladlefuls of white broth ; cover, and let 
simmer slowly for an hour ; knead four ounces of butter with five 
ounces of flour in another saucepan; stir, and cook a little ; dilute with 
a quart of boiled cream, two quarts of veal or chicken broth, and the 
celery ; stir steadily and boil ten minutes ; rub through a fine sieve, 
stir, and boil again ; finish with two ounces of butter, a cup of raw 
cream, and a teaspoonful of sugar ; pour into a soup-tureen, and serve 
with small squares of bread fried in butter separately on a plate. 

Stewed Terrapin, Maryland Style. — Select three large, live 
diamond-back terrapin ; plunge them in boiling Avater to take the horny 
skin off ; cook them in slightly salted water ; drain and open them ; 
take out every thing from the shells ; remove the head, tail, nails, intes- 
tines, lights, and gall-bladder carefully ; put the eggs on a plate, and 
cut the rest in pieces ; put this in a saucepan with four ounces of but- 
ter and a half pint of madeira wine ; boil down until nearly evaporated; 
add six egg-yolks diluted with a pint of cream, a little salt and red pep- 
per, six ounces of table butter, and the eggs from the terrapin ; stir 
steadily on a brisk fire until the sauce thickens, without boiling, and 
serve immediately with quartered lemons separately on a plate. 

Sweetbreads with Green Peas. — Select eight heart sweet- 
breads ; prepare and cook them as directed [No. 150] ; pour a gar- 
nishing of green peas [No. 115] in a dish, range the sweetbreads in a 
circle over this with the best one on the centre ; glaze with the re- 
duced gravy, and serve. 

Hind-Quarter of Lamb, Sauce Colbert. — Take a small, white, 



450 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

and fat hind-qnarter of lamb ; pare off the spine carefully, trim the 
handle-bone, and cut the tendon so as to bend the bone easily ; fold 
the loin in the fat-leaf so as to prevent its being cooked before the leg ; 
truss nicely, and roast about an hour ; untruss, pare, and dish up the 
lamb ; put a ladleful of rich gravy around it, add a paper ruffle to the 
handle, and serve with a colbert sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Colbert Sauce. — Put in a saucepan two ladlefuls of espagnole 
sauce, two tablespoonfuls of beef-extract, white and red pepper, chopped 
parsley, the juice of a lemon, six ounces of butter in small bits, and 
mix by the side of the fire without boiling. 

Pears with Rice. — Pare, cut in halves, and remove the cores of 
eight or more large cooking-pears ; cook in syrup, and drain on a hair- 
sieve ; cook six ounces of rice with a quart of milk as directed [No. 
249] ; pile this up on a dish, and arrange the pears nicely over it ; 
reduce the syrup to the desired consistency with two glasses of maras- 
chino liqueur, pour it over the pears, and serve. 



No. 273. 

Sunday, September 30. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup ; Green turtle. 

Broiled salmon, maitre d' hotel ; 
Baked mashed potatoes. 

Mutton chops a la Nivemaise ; 
Stuffed peppers. 

Salmi of grouse au fumet ; 
Celery salad, sauce remoulade. 

Pineapple ice. 

Green-Turtle Soup. — As green turtle, when prepared, can be 
kept for weeks, and dealers are not willing to retail them, the best way 
is to get a small live turtle weighing about twenty-five pounds, hang it 
by the hind legs or fins, cut off the head, and let it bleed all day ; then, 
with a sharp knife, part the two shells ; remove the intestines ; take all 
the meat from the shells, bones, and fins ; cut each shell in four pieces, 
and plunge, for a moment only, the fins and shells in boiling water to 
take the horny skin off. 

Then make a broth as follows : Cut in pieces and put in a 
stock-pot twenty pounds of lean soup-beef, salt, and six gallons 
of water ; boil slowly and scum well ; add carrots, onions, four leeks, 
two heads of celery, a bunch of parsley garnished with four bay- 
leaves, thyme, basilic, and sage in proportion, a handful of whole 



COOKERY BOOK. 451 

peppers, some allspice, a few cloves, and a few blades of mace, all 
tied together in a small cloth ; boil six hours and pass the broth 
through a sieve into a large tin pan ; use some ot this broth diluted 
with water in a saucepan to cook the shells and fins, and some in 
another saucepan to cook the meat ; the shells require about an hour 
and the meat not over twenty minutes. When they are done take 
the shells, meat, and fins out of the broth and pass the latter through 
a fine strainer into another saucepan ; remove all the bones from 
the shells, fins, and meat, and cut in small square pieces ; mix the 
whole, and put it in a dish. 

This is a preliminary and essential preparation ; for a larger turtle, 
use more meat, etc. 

For soup for eight persons : Thicken three quarts of the broth with 
four ounces of flour browned in butter ; boil half an hour, skim 
well ; add half a pint of sherry wine, a gill of port wine, a pinch 
of red pepper, and enough of the turtle ; boil ten minutes, skim 
again, and serve with slices of pared lemon on a plate. 

To preserve what is left of the turtle : Reduce to a consistency 
the rest of the broth, add the turtle, boil five minutes, put in quart 
tin cans, which should not be quite filled, and when cold pour into 
each can over the turtle some melted lard to keep out the air ; set in a 
cool larder for further use. A quart can is enough for eight persons. 

Broiled Salmon, Maitre d' Hotel. — Procure four large salmon 
steaks ; season with salt and pepper, baste with oil, and broil of a nice 
color; dish up with a cold maitre d' hotel sauce [No. 276], garnish 
with two quartered lemons, and serve. 

Mutton Chops a la Nivernaise. — Pare, season, and broil eight 
mutton chops ; dish up in a circle, pour a garnishing of carrots a la 
nivernaise [No. 147] in the centre, and serve. 

Salmi of Grouse au Fumet. — Dress, cover the breast with bardes 
of fat pork, and roast three tender grouse rather rare ; pare the legs 
and cut the breast in thick slices ; keep them hot, covered, on a plate ; 
bruise and put the bones in a saucepan with a pint and a half of 
espagnole sauce, a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, a pinch of red pepper, a 
gill of sherry wine, and a little broth ; boil fifteen minutes and press 
through a napkin ; place a large, fried, thick slice of bread on a dish, 
range the grouse upon it, pour the sauce over, and serve. 

Pineapple Ice. — Pare off, slice fine, and pound to a pulp a pound 
of ripe pineapple ; put in an earthen vessel with a quart of thick syrup 
(about 30 degrees) ; steep for five hours, add the juice of two oranges 
and of two lemons, press the whole forcibly through a fine hair-sieve, 



4 5 2 FRA NCO-A ME RICA N 

see that the preparation is reduced to 20 degrees (pese-syrop), and 
freeze in the ordinary way. 



No. 274. 

Monday, October i. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Sago au consomme. 

Stewed frogs b. la poulette ; 
Potatoes a la Reitz. 

Leg of mutton, English style ; 
Boiled turnips. 

Roast English snipe on toast; 
Lettuce salad, French dressing. 

Queen fritters with preserves. 

Sago au Consomme. — Boil three quarts of well-strained con- 
somme [No. 133] in a saucepan ; let drop into it like rain six ounces of 
sago, stirring with a spoon in the right hand ; set by the fire, and let 
simmer forty minutes ; skim, pour into a soup-tureen, and serve. 

Stewed Frogs a la Poulette. — Procure three pounds of dressed 
frog-legs ; pare both ends, and cut each in three or four pieces ; 
put in a sautoir (flat saucepan) with four ounces of butter, salt, 
pepper, nutmeg, and a gill of white wine ; set on the fire, cover, 
and cook briskly for ten minutes ; drain on a plate, put a pint of 
veloute sauce with the liquid, reduce till nearly thick enough ; add a 
liaison of four egg-yolks, four ounces of butter, and lemon-juice ; stir 
on the fire without boiling, and press through a napkin ; return the 
frogs to the sauce, add chopped parsley, and mix carefully ; dish up, 
surround with heart-shaped slices of bread fried in butter, and serve. 

Veloute Sauce. — Put in a saucepan a knuckle of veal cut in small 
pieces, some chicken parings or a fowl, salt, and cold water to cover ; 
boil, scum well ; add a quartered carrot, an onion with three cloves 
stuck in it, a bunch of parsley with aromatics, two leeks, a stalk of cel- 
ery, and a few pepper-corns ; cover, and boil slowly for two hours ; 
skim the fat and strain the sauce through a napkin ; knead in another 
saucepan three ounces of flour with two ounces of butter, stir, and cook 
a little without browning ; dilute with two quarts of broth, and boil 
slowly for half an hour ; then skim, and press through a napkin. This 
sauce is easily made, and serves wherever veloute is required. 

Potatoes ^ la Reitz. — Peel and cut some potatoes in fourth-of- 
an-inch-square strips ; fry pretty crisp, drain on a cloth, salt, and serve. 

Leg of Mutton, English Style. — Procure a leg of fat and 
tender english or Canadian mutton ; trim a little, pare the handle, and 



COOKERY BOOK. 453 

plunge into salted boiling water ; boil steadily for about an hour and a 
quarter, drain without thrusting any instrument inside (for all the juice 
would escape), put on a dish, add a paper ruffle to the handle-bone, 
pour a caper sauce [No. 55] over, and serve with some more sauce in a 
sauce-bowl. 

Boiled Turnips. — Pare enough white or yellow turnips ; cut them 
in quarters, trim a little, parboil five minutes to remove the strong, 
offensive odor ; drain, and then cook either in mutton-broth or simply 
in salted water with a pat of butter and a little sugar ; drain and serve. 

Roast Snipe on Toast. — Pick eight fat english snipe ; singe, 
void, truss up the feet, skin the head, and take the eyes out ; skewer 
with the bill, cover the breast with fat bacon, and roast briskly for 
twelve minutes ; dish upon as many pieces of toast as there are birds, 
garnish with water-cress and quartered lemon, add a little broth to the 
drippings, strain them over the snipe, and serve. 

Queen Fritters with Preserves. — Prepare and fry enough 
queen fritters as directed [No. 255] ; drain on a cloth ; fill a funnel- 
shaped sheet of paper with currant jelly stirred up smooth with a spoon; 
fold the funnel at the top and cut the small end to make a hole the size 
of a pencil, then push it through the crust, and press the jelly gently 
out to fill the fritter ; repeat with every fritter, dish up in pyramidal 
form, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve. 



No. S75. 

Tuesday, October 2. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Italian paste. 

Salmon, Genevoise sauce ; 
Potato croquettes. 

Fillet of beef, Madeira sauce ; 
Mushrooms, Italian style. 

Teal duck, currant-jelly sauce. 
Celery, Mayonnaise sauce. 

Gelee au kirsch. 

Italian Paste. — Boil half a pound of small italian paste in salted 
water for ten minutes ; drain, put in a saucepan with three quarts of 
beef-broth [No. 263] ; boil ten minutes longer, skim, pour into a soup- 
tureen, and serve with grated parmesan cheese separately on a plate. 

Boiled Salmon, Genevoise Sauce. — Procure a head or tail piece 
of salmon weighing about four pounds ; dress and cook as directed 
[No. 266] ; dish up on a folded napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve 
with a genevoise sauce in a sauce-bowl. 



454 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Genevoise Sauce. — Put in a saucepan a carrot, an onion, and two 
ounces of ham cut in pieces, a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, two cloves, 
some parsley, a few whole peppers, a clove of garlic, and two ounces of 
butter ; stir and fry slowly until the moisture is evaporated ; add a 
pint of claret wine, boil, and reduce to one half, then put in sufficient 
espagnole sauce [No. 262] ; boil half an hour, skim, pass forcibly 
through a napkin, then mix with it a tablespoonful of anchovy essence 
and two ounces of butter. 

Fillet of Beef, Madeira Sauce. — Procure a whole fillet of beef, 
pare off the fat and the sinews from the surface, and with a larding- 
needle lard it over the pared side with small strips of salt pork ; then 
put in a roasting-pan a few large slices of carrots and onions, a gar- 
nished bunch of parsley, and a few slices of salt pork ; put the fillet on 
this and a buttered paper over, add two ladlefuls of fat from the sur- 
face of the soup-pot, and cook in a warm oven for about fifty minutes ; 
take off the fillet on a dish ; skim all the grease off the vegetables, put 
them in a saucepan wath two glasses of madeira wine and a pint of es- 
pagnole sauce ; boil till consistent enough, skim, add a pinch of red 
pepper, and press through a napkin ; dish up the fillet, pour the sauce 
round it, and serve. 

Fresh Mushrooms "k V Italienne. — Have two pounds of fresh 
cultivated mushrooms ; pare off the ground end of the stalks, wash 
well, drain, chop the stalks fine, and press the water out ; heat four 
ounces of sweet oil in a large flat frying-pan, throw the mushroom- 
heads into it, season with salt and pepper, and fry briskly for about 
ten minutes ; then, with a skimmer, transfer them to small pieces of 
dry toast placed on a dish ; put the chopped stalks in a frying-pan, fry 
a few minutes, season, add chopped parsley and lemon-juice, pour this 
over the mushrooms, and serve. 

Teal Duck, Currant-Jelly Sauce. — Pick, singe, draw, truss, 
and roast four blue-winged teal as directed [No. 261], and serve with a 
currant-jelly sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Currant-Jelly Sauce. — Stir half a pound of currant jelly in a 
saucepan, with the same quantity of espagnole sauce and a glass of 
port wine ; boil five minutes, skim, and press through a napkin. 

Gelee au Kirsch. — Clarify three pints of sweet jelly as directed 
[No. 2] ; cool partially, add a gill of kirschwasser, fill a mould, cool 
thoroughly, and serve in the ordinary way. 



COOKERY BOOK. 455 

No. 276. 

Wednesday, October 3. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Tomato. 

White-fish, maitre d' hotel sauce ; 
Hashed potatoes sautees. 

Round of beef with glazed onions ; 
Stewed celery a 1' Espagnole. 

Roast plover on toast ; 
Chiccory salad. 

Cups of vanilla custard. 

Tomato Soup. — Clean and wash two gallons of raw tomatoes ; 
bruise and put them in a saucepan ; put them on the fire, boil fifteen 
minutes, and drain off the water ; in another saucepan put three ounces 
of butter with two carrots, two onions, and three ounces of ham, all cut 
in pieces, and a garnished bunch of parsley ; fry slowly for fifteen min- 
utes, put in three tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well, add the tomatoes 
with two quarts of veal-broth, season with salt and pepper, cook slowly 
for an hour, pass through a fine sieve, boil again ; add two ounces of 
butter, a little fine sugar, and serve with small squares of bread fried 
in butter. 

White-Fish, Maitre d' Hotel. — Pare off the fins, wash well, 
wipe dry, and slit a large white-fish down the back ; remove the spine, 
season with salt and pepper, baste with oil, broil to a nice color and 
well ; slide on a dish, spread a soft maitre d' hotel sauce over the fish, 
garnish with quartered lemon, and serve. 

Maitre d' Hotel Sauce. — Knead the desired quantity of mellow 
table butter with finely chopped and pressed parsley, and lemon-juice. 
Use it unmelted with different preparations. 

Round of Beef with Glazed Onions. — Take an eight-pound 
piece of beef, prepare and cook as directed [No. 271] ; strain, skim the 
fat, and reduce the gravy to a demi-glaze sauce ; drain, pare, and dish 
up the beef ; surround with glazed onions, pour the sauce over the 
beef, and serve. 

Glazed Onions. — Peel two dozen medium-sized white onions ; 
put them in a sautoir (flat saucepan) with three ounces of melted but- 
ter, a little powdered sugar, and roll them in this ; fry slowly, and cook 
in a moderately hot oven for half an hour (they ought now to be of a 
rich yellow color); drain off the butter, add a ladleful of broth, two 
ladlefuls of demi-glaze sauce, cover, and cook half an hour longer. 

Stewed Celery ^ 1' Espagnole. — Have eight large heads of 
celery ; pare the root, and clear the green stalks out ; wash well, par- 



456 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

boil five minutes, drain on a cloth, cut them all the same length ; put 
them in a sautoir with salt, pepper, bits of butter, and white broth to 
cover ; put a buttered paper over, and let simmer slowly for an hour ; 
drain the celery on a sieve, add a half pint of espagnole sauce to the 
liquid, skim the fat, reduce to the consistency of a sauce, and press 
through a napkin ; range the celery on a dish, pour the sauce over it, 
and serve. 

Roast Plover on Toast. — Pick eight fat and fresh plover ; 
singe, void, truss, cover the breast with fat bacon, and roast briskly for 
twelve minutes ; dish up on eight small pieces of dry toast ; add a glass 
of white wine and a little rich broth to the drippings, strain them over 
the birds, garnish the lower end with water-cress and quartered lemon, 
and serve. 

Cups of Vanilla Custard. — Cut a vanilla-bean in short pieces, 
put it in a quart of boiling milk, set aside, and let infuse an hour; break 
two whole eggs and eight egg-yolks in a saucepan with half a pound of 
sugar, mix well, dilute with the vanilla infusion', and pass through a 
fine strainer ; fill the cups, put them in a sautoir with boiling water to 
half their height, cover, and let simmer slowly until the custard is well 
set ; let cool, wipe the cups, and serve. 



No. S77. 

Thursday, October 4. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Chicken, with rice. 

Curry of lobster, American style. 

Veal cutlets a la Milanaise ; 
Broiled tomatoes. 

Roast quail ; 
Lettuce and egg salad. 

Blanc manger aux amandes. 

Chicken, with Rice. — Singe, draw, and cut a large tender 
chicken in small pieces ; put it in a saucepan with two ounces of 
butter, stir and fry until the butter turns clear, then drain it off ; 
wet with two quarts of veal or chicken broth and three pints of 
water, add a little salt and pepper, four ounces of rice, a bunch of 
parsley with aromatics, and an onion with three cloves stuck in it ; 
boil, cover, and cook slowly for forty minutes ; skim the fat, remove 
the parsley and onion, pour into a soup-tureen, and serve. 

Curry of Lobster, American Style. — Take six pounds of live 
lobster ; remove the top shell, small legs, and the spongy part along 



COOKERY BOOK. 457 

the body ; slit open lengthwise, take out the intestines, then cut in 
pieces, tail, body, and claws with the shell ; put three ounces of butter 
in a saucepan with a chopped onion and two ounces of ham cut small, 
and fry a little ; add two ounces of flour and two tablespoonfuls of 
curry powder, fry a little longer, dilute with half a pint of catawba 
wine and a pint and a half of wliite broth, boil ; add salt, pepper, a 
bunch of parsley with aromatics and the lobster ; cover, and cook half 
an hour, remove the parsley, press in the juice of a lemon, dish up, 
and serve with plain-boiled rice separately on a dish. 

Veal Cutlets a la Milanaise. — Pare and flatten well eight 
small veal cutlets ; season with salt and pepper, and roll in dry 
crumbs ; break three eggs into two tablespoonfuls of sweet oil and 
beat them well ; mingle some fine fresh white-bread crumbs with a 
fourth of grated parmesan cheese ; dip the cutlets in the eggs, roll them 
in the prepared crumbs, then flatten slightly, and smooth them with 
the blade of a kitchen knife ; heat half a pound of butter and sweet 
oil in equal parts in a large sautoir (flat saucepan) ; place the cut- 
lets in it, fry light brown on both sides and well, and drain on a 
cloth ; pour some milanaise garnishing on a dish, range the cutlets in a 
circle upon it, pour more garnishing in the centre and a iadleful of 
tomato sauce over, and serve. 

Milanaise Garnishing. — Put half a pint of allemande sauce in a 
saucepan with two ounces of butter, four ounces of grated parmesan 
cheese, about half a pound of cooked macaroni cut in inch-lengths, 
two ounces of red beef-tongue, a few mushrooms, and two truffles (if 
any are to be had) cut in fine shreds, a little salt, nutmeg, white and a 
pinch of red pepper ; set these on the fire, boil a minute, toss the sauce- 
pan pretty quickly to make the preparation stringy, and use. 

Broiled Tomatoes. — Select a dozen large, ripe, and full tomatoes ; 
wash and wipe dry, slit in halves, season with salt and pepper, sprinkle 
with flour, baste with melted butter, and broil briskly in a double grid- 
iron ; dish up, pour melted butter over them, and serve. 

Roast Quail. — Pick, singe, draw, and truss nicely eight quail ; 
put thin bardes of salt pork on the breast and roast twenty minutes ; 
dish up on eight small pieces of dry toast ; add a Iadleful of rich gravy 
to the drippings, strain this over the birds, add a handful of water-cress 
and quartered lemons, and serve. 

Blanc Manger aux Amandes. — Blanch a pound of sweet almonds 
and a few bitter ones ; steep in cold water for an hour, drain, pound to 
a puree with a few drops of water ; dilute with a quart of milk, and 
press forcibly through a strong napkin to extract all the liquid ; melt 



458 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

separately an ounce and a half of clarified gelatine with a pint of water, 
add half a pound of sugar, press this through a napkin, and mix with 
the milk ; imbed a three-pint jelly-mould in ice, fill with the prepara- 
tion, cool thoroughly, and serve as you would a jelly. 



No. 278. 

Friday, October 5. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Bouillabaisse. 

Vol-au-vent of sweetbread ; 
Cauliflowers, white sauce. 



Fillets of beef a la Chateaubriand ; 
Vegetable salad. 

Apples a la Ninon. 

Bouillabaisse. — Take one black-fish, one sea-bass^ a small striped 
bass, a medium-sized live lobster, an eel, and two soft-shell crabs : clean 
them all and cut them in pieces ; put in a thin saucepan, pretty large 
and not too deep, two ounces of sweet oil, two cloves of garlic, and a 
bay-leaf ; fry a little, then put the fish in this saucepan with a dozen 
large raw oysters ; season with salt and pepper, a sliced lemon, three 
tomatoes peeled and cut small, half a teaspoonful of powdered saffron, 
a pint of white wine, and cold water enough to cover up the fish ; put 
this on a very brisk fire, and in fifteen minutes all the fish ought to be 
done and the gravy sufficiently reduced ; add a tablespoonful of chop- 
ped parsley and boil a minute longer ; put slightly toasted slices of 
bread in a deep dish, pour the liquid over, and send to table with the 
fish in another dish. At table, serve the same plate from the two 
dishes. 

Vol-au-Vent of Sweetbread. — Prepare a puff-paste feuilletage 
as follows : Sift a pound of flour on the table and arrange in a circle ; 
put in a little salt and a glass of iced water and make a soft, smooth 
dough ; cover with a cloth and let rest ten minutes ; meanwhile wash 
well a pound of butter in cold water, knead it in a cloth, and give it a 
fiat square shape ; then flour the table, and with a rolling-pin spread the 
paste in a square somewhat larger than the butter ; place the butter on 
the centre, bring back the four sides over it so as to cover it entirely ; 
flatten the paste and butter to a fourth of an inch thick by pushing 
them "forward with the rolling-pin ; fold the paste in three, press it with 
the rolling-pin, and make it perfectly square (this operation is termed 
a turn) ; give it half a turn to the right, roll it again as thin as before, 
fold the same way, and then the paste will have had two turns ; let it 



COOKERY BOOK, 459 

rest in a cool place for ten minutes ; then give two more turns as be- 
fore, and let it rest again ; then again give two more turns, which will 
make six and complete the operation ; roll it square to about an inch 
thick, let rest five minutes, then with the help of a plate or a paste- 
board model representing exactly the size wanted, cut the paste with 
the point of a knife, turn it over on a baking-sheet, egg the surface, 
and with the point of the knife again cut a ring in the paste about an 
inch from the edge, trace a few lines on the centre, and bake about 
forty minutes in a regularly heated but not too hot oven ; when done 
lift up the centre (cover) and empty it ; keep warm till wanted, then 
fill with a ragout of sweetbreads ; cover, and serve. 

Ragout of Sweetbread. — Steep in cold water and parboil six 
sweetbreads ; cool, drain, cut them in slices ; put in a sautoirwith three 
ounces of melted butter, salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; cover, and cook 
slowly, then add some cooked fresh or preserved mushrooms, and 
enough allemande sauce [No. 265] ; mix well without boiling. 

Fillets of Beef ^ la Chateaubriand. — Pare and flatten four 
large tenderloin steaks ; season with salt and pepper, baste with oil, and 
broil rare ; range on a dish, surround with parisienne potatoes [No. 
269], pour a sauce a la Chateaubriand over the meat, and serve. 

Apples a la Ninon. — Pare, core, and cook eight large cooking- 
apples in syrup as directed [No. 265] ; drain, place each apple on a 
small, round base of rice, prepared as for croquettes, with a higher one 
on the centre of the dish ; ornament with candied fruits, reduce the 
syrup, pour it over the apples, and serve. 



No. 279. 

Saturday, October 6. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Cream of sorrel. 



Boiled codfish, esEr sauce 



t)t> 



Poiatoes a la lioUandaise. 

Fricassee of chicken a la reine ; 
Baked cauliflowers au Parmesan, 

Entrecotes of beef, Bordelaise ; 
Beet and tomato salad. 

Apples a la fermiere. 

Cream of Sorrel. — Have enough sorrel ; pick off the stems, 
wash well, and put in a saucepan with four ounces of melted butter ; 
stir on the fire until the sorrel is melted, and boil ten minutes ; knead 
five ounces of flour with four ounces of butter in another saucepan ; 



46o FRANCO-AMERICAN 

cook a little, dilute with two quarts of veal-broth, a quart of boiled 
cream, and the sorrel ; add salt, pepper, and nutmeg, stir and boil 
briskly, and rub through a very fine sieve (the finer the sieve the better 
the puree) ; return to a saucepan, stir again to a boiling heat, finish 
with a liaison of four egg-yolks, half a pint of cream, and four ounces 
of butter ; mix well without boiling, pour into a soup-tureen, and serve 
with small squares of bread fried in butter, separately on a plate. 

Boiled Codfish, Egg Sauce. — Cleanse, dress, and truss a six- 
pound fresh codfish ; put it in a fish-kettle with salted and acidulated 
water an inch over the fish ; cover with a sheet of paper, boil slowly 
and let simmer half an hour ; drain, slide on a folded napkin, garnish 
with parsley, and serve with an egg sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Egg Sauce. — Put in a saucepan three ounces of butter, salt, pep- 
per, nutmeg, and two ounces of flour ; mix well without melting the 
butter ; add a pint of boiling water, stir with a small whip to get the 
sauce smooth and boil a moment ; add two egg-yolks, lemon-juice, and 
four ounces of butter ; press forcibly through a napkin, and serve with 
two hard-boiled eggs chopped fine. 

Chicken Fricassee a la Reine. — Take three small, fat, spring 
pullets (commonly called chicken a la reine) ; divide and cook as 
directed [No. 259], and add at the moment of serving some chicken 
quenelles [No. 294], heads of mushrooms, and sliced truffles ; dish up 
in a pyramidal form, surround with heart-shaped slices of bread fried 
in butter, and serve. 

Baked Cauliflowers au Parmesan. — Pare off the green leaves 
and boil two heads of cauliflower in slightly salted water with a small 
piece of butter ; drain, season inside and outside with salt, pepper, and 
grated nutmeg, and put in dome form on a buttered baking-dish ; take 
nearly a pint of pretty consistent bechamel sauce [No. 270], in a sauce- 
pan with four egg-yolks, and three ounces of grated parmesan cheese ; 
stir and boil this a moment, mask the cauliflower with the sauce, and 
smooth with the blade of a knife ; besprinkle with fine crumbs and 
grated cheese, drop small bits of butter over all, and bake to a nice 
color for twenty minutes ; serve on the baking-dish, 

Entrecotes of Beef, Bordelaise. — Procure two large, fat, and 
tender entrecotes of beef ; season with salt and pepper, baste with oil 
and broil rather rare over a bright charcoal fire ; place on a dish, pour 
a bordelaise sauce [No. 209] over, and serve. 

Apples a la Fermiere. — Pare and core eight large cooking- 
apples; place them on a well-buttered baking-dish, sprinkle with ground 
cinnamon, fill the hole in the centre with powdered sugar, baste with 



COOKERY BOOK. 461 

melted butter, and bake in a moderate oven, taking care to sprinkle 
occasionally with the butter in the dish ; serve in the baking-dish, or 
transfer carefully to another. 



No. 280. 

Sunday, October 7. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Terrapin. 

Fried eel, Tartar sauce ; 
Potato cakes, 

Lamb chops, Macedoine ; 
Stuffed tomatoes, Carolina style. 

Roast grouse, currant sauce ; 
Celery salad. 

Napolitaine ice-cream. 

Terrapin Soup. — Cook and prepare two terrapin as directed [No. 
272], but cut them smaller ; put in a saucepan two quarts of espagnole 
sauce, a quart of veal-broth, halt a pint of sherry wine, a glass of port 
wine, two tablespoonfuls of " Harvey's sauce," and a pinch of red pep- 
per ; add the terrapin, boil half an hour, skim well, and serve with 
slices of lemon on a plate. 

Fried Eels, Tartar Sauce.— Have three large eels well cleaned 
and cut in five-inch lengths ; put them in a saucepan with salt, pepper, 
a garnished bunch of parsley, a gill of vinegar, sliced carrots and 
onions, and cold water enough to cover the fish ; put this on the fire, 
boil slowly for ten minutes, and let cool in the liquid ; drain the eels 
on a cloth, roll in dry crumbs, dip in eggs beaten with salt, pepper, and 
two tablespoonfuls of sweet oil ; roll in fresh crumbs again, smooth 
them with the blade of a knife, and fry crisp and light brown in clear, 
pretty hot fat ; drain, serve on a folded napkin with fried parsley and 
quartered lemons, and a tartar sauce [No. 83J in a sauce-bowl. 

Lamb Chops a la Macedoine. — Have eight well-trimmed lamb 
chops ; season with salt and pepper, and broil them ; with a vegetable- 
scoop, scoop out carrots and turnips as for printanier soup [No. 251 J, 
and cook them in the same way ; drain, and put them in a saucepan 
with green peas, lima and string-beans, a piece of butter, salt and pep- 
per, and a teaspoonful of sugar ; warm well, add a pint of bechamel 
sauce, and mix carefully by tossing the saucepan ; pour half of this 
macedoine on a dish, dress the chops in a circle alternately with chop- 
shaped slices of bread fried in butter ; put the rest of the garnishing 
in the centre, add a small head of cauliflower on top, and small paper 
ruffles to the bones ; serve. 



462 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Stuffed Tomatoes, Carolina Style. — Select a dozen large, 
sound, ripe tomatoes ; open them at top by taking out an inch-round 
piece, saving these pieces ; with a scoop or a teaspoon take all the 
seeds and water out ; cook in a saucepan a pint of Carolina rice with a 
quart of veal or beef broth, salt, and half of a green pepper cut fine ; 
boil fifteen minutes, add four ounces of clarified butter, mingle well, 
and let rest for ten minutes ; then with a teaspoon fill the tomatoes 
with the rice, put on as covers the pieces previously saved, put them in 
a baking-pan, sprinkle a little sweet oil over, and bake for half an hour 
in a moderately heated oven ; dish up, surround with two ladlefuls of 
tomato sauce, and serve. 

Roast Grouse, Currant Sauce. — Pick, dress, and roast three 
grouse ; dish up on dry toast, add a little rich broth to the drippings ; 
strain this over the birds, and serve with a currant sauce [No. 352] in 
a sauce-bowl. 

Napolitaine Ice-Cream. — Have a square or oblong-shaped ice- 
cream mould (or rather a frame) with a movable bottom ; fill it with 
three layers of ices, such as orange, vanilla, and pistachio (see the in- 
dex for these preparations), placed one on the other ; cover hermeti- 
cally^ imbed for two hours in salted ice, turn on a folded napkin, the 
orange ice uppermost, and serve. 



No. 281. 

Monday, October 8. — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup : Giblet, French style. 

Sheep's-head k I'lndienne ; 
Boiled rice. 

Boiled turkey, parsley sauce ; 
Celery au veloute. 

Roast beef with potato croquettes. ; 
Cauliflower salad. 



Pancakes with macaroons. 

Giblet Soup, French Style. — When dressing the turkey, save the 
neck, wings, gizzard^ and heart ; clean, cut them in pieces, put in a 
saucepan with a chopped onion and two ounces of butter, stir and fry 
light brown ; drain off the butter, wet with two quarts of beef-broth, 
[No. 263] and two quarts of water, add a little salt, pepper, a bunch of 
parsley with aromatics, small, thin rounds of carrot and turnip,, the 
white part of a leek, two white stalks of celery cut small, and three 
ounces of rice ; cover, and boil slowly for forty minutes ; remove the 
parsley, skim the fat, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 463 

Sheep's-Head a 1* Indienne. — Take a large sheep's-head, put in 
a fish-boiler with a pint of water, a pint of white wine, two ounces of 
butter, salt, pepper, two chopped onions, a green pepper cut fine, and a 
well-garnished bunch of parsley ; put a buttered paper over, let boil 
slowly and cook an hour ; when done drain the fish on a dish ; melt 
three ounces of butter in a saucepan with three tablespoonfuls of curry 
powder and two ounces of flour, dilute with the fish gravy ; two table- 
spoofuls of chutney sauce, and some veal-broth ; boil fifteen minutes, 
skim off the fat, and finish with two ounces of butter and lemon-juice ; 
slide the fish on its dish, pour some of the sauce over, and serve with 
the rest in a sauce-bowl along with a dish of plain boiled rice. 

Boiled Turkey, Parsley Sauce. — Prepare, truss, and boil a tur- 
key as directed [No. 268] ; make a quart of allemande sauce with part 
of the broth, and mix with it a tablespoonful of freshly chopped and 
pressed parsley ; drain well and dish up the turkey, pour part of the 
sauce over, and serve with more sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Celery au Veloute. — Cook eight large heads of celery as directed 
[No. 276] ; drain on a sieve, add half a pint of veloute sauce to the 
saucepan, reduce to the desired consistency, and finish with two ounces 
of butter ; dish up the celery, pour the sauce over, and serve. 

Roast Beef with Potato Croquettes. — Saw off the spine, 
shorten the ribs, and truss nicely a fat and tender two-rib piece of 
beef ; roast about an hour and a quarter ; untruss, pare a little, place 
on a dish surrounded with small cork-shaped potato croquettes, and 
serve with a rich gravy in a sauce-bowl, and scrapings of horseradish 
separately on a plate. 

Pancakes with Macaroons. — Prepare and cook a number of 
pancakes as directed [No. 255] ; spread them on a cloth, mask each 
one with a cream a la frangipane [No. 347], mixed in equal parts with 
bruised almond macaroons ; roll them, place on a baking-sheet, be- 
sprinkle with powdered sugar and glaze light brown, either in a very 
hot oven, or with a red-hot glazing-iron ; pare both ends, dish up on a 
folded napkin, and serve. 



464 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 283. 

Tuesday, October 9. — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup : Tapioca. 

Fried weak-fish, tomato sauce ; 
Potato croquettes. 

Carbonades of mutton, sauce poivrade ; 
Stewed okra, Virginia style. 

Cutlets of partridge, port-wine sauce ; 
Escarole salad. 



Rice fritters. 

Tapioca Soup. — Put three quarts of beef-broth in a saucepan ; 
boil, let drop into it six ounces of pulverized tapioca, stirring steadily 
with the right hand ; boil slowly for half an hour, skim well, and serve. 

Fried Weak-Fish, Tomato Sauce. — Have eight medium-sized 
weak-fish (when too large they do not fry well) well cleaned, and cut 
the fins off ; with a sharp knife cut small incisions on both sides, dip them 
in cold milk and roll them in flour ; then fry light brown and pretty 
crisp in very hot fat ; salt a little, dish up on a folded napkin, surround 
with fried parsley and quartered lemons, and serve with tomato sauce 
in a sauce-bowl. 

Carbonades of Mutton, Sauce Poivrade.—Take two fillets of 
mutton (the part between the chops and legs) ; take out the bones and 
fat from the inside, season v/ith salt and pepper ; take off also most of 
the fat and all the sinews from the surface of the large fillets, lard them 
with salt pork as explained for fillets of beef [No. 275], and tie them 
firmly with a string ; put in a flat saucepan two carrots, two onions, 
and two ounces of ham (all sliced), and a garnished bunch of parsley ; 
set the carbonades over, add sufficient beef-broth, cover with a buttered 
paper, and cook slowly in an oven for about two hours, taking care to 
baste occasionally with the liquid, and glaze to a nice color ; untie, 
pare a little, dish up on two large, thick slices of fried bread ; pour the 
sauce round the meat, ornament the dish with sliced gherkins, and 
serve. 

Poivrade Sauce. — Drain all the fat out of the pan in which the 
mutton has been cooked ; add a glass of vinegar and a few pepper- 
corns ; boil a few minutes, then put this in a saucepan with a pint of 
espagnole sauce ; reduce to the desired consistency, and press through 
a napkin. 

Stewed Okra, Virginia Style.— Select fifty small, tender okras ; 
cut both ends and wash them well ; have ready a well-buttered sauce- 
pan, put the okras in it, salt, pepper, a green pepper chopped fine, and 



COOKERY BOOK. 465 

a pint of tomato sauce ; cover, cook slowly for half an hour, and serve 
with the sauce. 

Cutlets of Partridge, Port-Wine Sauce. — Pick, singe, and 
void four tender partridges ; slit the back, remove all the bones but the 
pinions and stumps ; cut the birds in halves, season with salt and pep- 
per, and place in a sautoir (flat saucepan) with melted butter ; a few 
minutes before serving put them on a very brisk fire and cook quickly 
and light brown on both sides ; dish up m a circle, the stumps pointing 
upward, alternately with heart-shaped slices of bread fried in butter 
pour a port-wine sauce in the centre, glaze the cutlets, add small paper 
ruffles to the stumps, and serve. 

Port- Wine Sauce. — Chop two shallots, put them in a saucepan 
with the bruised partridge bones, two ounces of butter, a bay-leaf, and 
a sprig of thyme ; stir and fry ten minutes ; add a gill of port wine, a 
little broth, and a pint and a half of espagnole sauce ; boil half an 
hour, strain, and press through a napkin. 

Rice Fritters. — Prepare and cook some rice as for rice croquettes 
[No. 294] ; cut it in thin oblongs or lozenges, dip in a flour batter [No. 
5] ; drop one by one in plenty of very hot fat, and fry light brown ; 
drain on a cloth, dish up on a folded napkin, sprinkle with powdered 
sugar, and serve. 

No. 283. 

Wednesday, October 10. — Bill of fare for eight persons ; 

Soup : Mock turtle, French style. 

Fillets of sole a la Joinville ; 
Potatoes i la duchesse. 



Boiled partridge, celery sauce ; 
Baked sweet potatoes. 

Porterhouse steaks, marrow sauce ; 
Tomato and onion salad. 

Meringues with preserves. 

Mock Turtle, French Style. — Bone, steep in cold water for an 
hour, parboil, and then cook a small, white calf's-head [No. 261] ; drain, 
pare off the fat, press slightly between two tin sheets, and let cool ; then 
cut in half-inch squares ; put in a saucepan with five pints of rich con- 
somme [No. 133], a gill of madeira wine, a bunch of parsley with aro- 
matics, and a pinch of red pepper ; boil, and let simmer half an hour ; 
remove the parsley, add half a pint of small egg quenelles, pour into a 
soup-tureen over some thin slices of pared lemon, and serve. 

Egg Quenelles. — Rub six hard-boiled egg-yolks through a fine 



466 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

sieve ; put them in a vessel with salt, pepper, an ounce of butter, four 
raw egg-yolks, and four ounces of flour : knead the whole to a paste, 
put on a floured table, roll and cut in small balls the size of a large 
marrowfat pea ; cook in boiling water for three minutes, and drain in 
a colander. 

Fillets of Sole a la Joinville. — Take the fillets of two large 
flounders ; pare off the skin, told in two, flatten slightly, season with 
salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg; put in a buttered sautoir (flat sauce- 
pan) with hali a gill of white wine and small bits of butter ; cover and 
cook ten minutes ; drain, dish up in a circle, fill the centre with cooked 
mushrooms, oysters, and coUoped lobster ; pour a joinville sauce over, 
insert the end of a small leg of lobster in each fillet, and serve. 

Joinville Sauce. — Knead an ounce and a half of flour with apiece 
of butter in a saucepan ; stir and cook a little ; dilute with the fish 
f^ravy and a pint of white broth, stir and boil ten minutes ; finish with 
a liaison of four egg-yolks, four ounces of butter, lemon-juice, a pinch 
of red pepper, and enough lobster butter to give a reddish tint to the 
sauce • mix on the fire without boiling, and press through a napkin. 

Red Lobster Butter. — Take the coral and eggs from one or 
more cooked lobsters ; wash well, wipe in a cloth, pound to a paste, 
mix with very firm table butter, and rub through a very fine sieve. 

Boiled Partridge, Celery Sauce. — Pick, draw, and truss 
three partridges ; cover the breast with thin slices of fat pork, put 
in a saucepan with a quartered carrot, an onion with three cloves stuck 
in it, a bunch of parsley, celery stalks with aromatics, salt, and pep- 
per-corns ; wet with white broth and water in equal parts, nearly 
covering the birds ; cover the saucepan, and boil about forty minutes 
(according to the tenderness of the partridges) ; drain, untruss, dish up, 
pour a celery sauce [No. 268") made with the partridge-broth over the 
birds, and serve. 

Porterhouse Steaks, Marrow Sauce. — Procure two large, 
tender porterhouse steaks ; pare off the spine and superfluous fat, 
flatten heavily, season with salt and pepper, baste with oil, and broil 
of a nice color and rather rare over a charcoal fire ; pour a marrow 
sauce [No. 248] over, and serve. 

Meringues with Preserves. — Prepare and cook a number of 
meringue shells as directed [No. 3] ; fill the hollow side with cur- 
rant jelly, stick two shells together so as to form one meringue, repeat- 
ing for all ; arrange them on a folded napkin, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 467 

No. 284. 

Thursday, October 11. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Bisque of lobster. 

Brook-pickerel a la maitre d' hotel ; 
Lyonnaise potatoes. 

Veal chops a 1' Italienne ; 
Stewed tomatoes. 

Salmi of woodcock ; 
Celery salad, Mayonnaise. 

Gelee aux oranges. 

Bisque of Lobster. — Take six pounds of small live lobsters ; 
open them raw, take out the stony pouch and the intestines ; cut the 
meat in pieces, and put on a dish ; put in a saucepan four ounces of 
butter, two onions, four ounces of ham and salt pork in equal parts 
the whole cut fine, and a bunch of parsley ; stir, and fry till light 
brown ; add the lobster, a pint of white wine, a quart of broth, white 
and red pepper, and nutmeg, and boil an hour ; put in another sauce- 
pan a pint and a half of rice Avith two quarts of white broth, stir it 
once in a while, and cook slowly for one hour (this must be thoroughly 
cooked to a paste) ; drain the lobster and save the gravy ; put the lob- 
ster in a mortar, shell and all, and pound it very fine ; add the rice, 
pound again, dilute with the lobster gravy, and more broth if required • 
rub through a very fine sieve, stir, and heat well without boiling ; 
finish with three ounces of butter, a glass of sherry wine, and serve 
with small squares of bread fried in butter. 

Brook-Pickerel a la Maitre d' Hotel.— Take eight pickerel, 
about half a pound each ; cleanse and dress nicely, cut small incisions 
on each side, baste with oil, season with salt and pepper, and broil 
well ; put on a dish spread with maitre d' hotel sauce, surround with 
quartered lemons, and serve. 

Lyonnaise Potatoes. — Take cold boiled potatoes ; cut in slices, 
and season with salt and pepper ; put four ounces of butter in a large 
frying-pan with two sliced onions, and fry two minutes ; add the pota- 
toes, stir, and fry again till they are of a nice brown color ; drain the 
butter off, sprinkle with chopped parsley, and serve. 

Veal Chops £t 1' Italienne. — Pare and flatten eight medium-sized 
veal chops ; season with salt and pepper, put in a sautoir with six 
ounces of butter and oil in equal parts, and fry light brown on both 
sides ; drain off the fat, add a glass of white wine and about a pint 
and a half of italian sauce ; cover, and let simmer ten minutes ; dish 
up in a circle alternately with heart-shaped slices of bread fried in 



468 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

butter ; pour the sauce in the centre, and put small white-paper ruffles 
on the bones ; serve. 

Italian Sauce. — Put two ounces of butter and sweet oil (or the 
fat drawn from the chops) in a small saucepan with two tablespoonf uls 
of chopped shallots ; stir, and fry a little ; add pepper, nutmeg, half a 
pint of chopped mushrooms, and fry a little longer ; wet with a pint 
and a half of espagnole sauce [No. 263], a gill of white wine, and a 
ladleful of tomato sauce ; boil ten minutes, skim the fat, and finish 
with chopped parsley and the juice of half a lemon. 

Salmi of Woodcock. — Pick eight woodcock, skin the head, re- 
move the eyes, craw, gizzard, and wings ; cover the breast with thin 
slices of bacon, and roast the birds rare ; then proceed and serve as 
directed [No. 189], substituting madeira for red wine, and garnishing 
with heads of mushrooms. 

Gelee aux Oranges. — Peel and divide six juicy oranges in quar- 
ters ; pare carefully, and remove the seeds ; prepare three pints of or- 
ange jelly as directed [No. 121] ; imbed a cylindrical jelly-mould in 
ice, and pour into it a third of an inch of jelly ; let congeal, cover 
symmetrically with quarters of orange ; add more jelly, let congeal 
again, and so on until the mould is filled ; cool thoroughly, and serve 
in the usual way on a folded napkin. 



No. 285. 

Friday, October 12. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Oyster. 

Sea-bass au court-bouillon ; 
Potatoes a la Colbert. 



Corned beef-tongue with spinach ; 
Mashed turnips. 

Roast stuffed chickens ; 
Vegetable salad. 



Omelets a la Celestine. 

Oyster Soup. — Put a little water, salt, nutmeg, pepper, and small 
bits of butter in a saucepan ; add two quarts of fresh-opened, medium 
oysters ; cover, put on a brisk fire, and stir occasionally until boiling ; 
then stir again, return to the fire, and boil a moment longer so that the 
oysters may be evenly cooked ; set by the fire, skim, add four ounces 
of butter in small bits, half a pint of boiled milk, a pint of white sauce, 
and some bruised butter-crackers ; pour into a soup-tureen, and serve 
with more crackers separately on a plate. 



COOKERY BOOK. 469 

Sea-Bass au Court-Bouillon. — Have two large sea-bass ; trim 
them well, put in a wide stewpan with salt, pepper, three ounces of 
butter, two large onions sliced crosswise to give the shape of a ring, 
parsley-leaves, a bunch of parsley, and claret wine enough to cover up 
the fish ; boil and let simmer forty minutes, drain the fish on a dish ; 
take off the bunch of parsley, put the onions and parsley-leaves on the 
fish, and keep warm ; put two ounces of butter and two tablespoonfuls 
of flour in a saucepan, stir and cook five minutes, dilute with the fish 
gravy and enough broth, and boil fifteen minutes ; skim the fat, press 
through a napkin with three ounces of butter, see that the fish is well 
drained, pour the sauce over the dish, and serve. 

Potatoes a la Colbert. — Cut cold boiled potatoes in squares ; 
season with salt and pepper, put in a saucepan with a little water and 
a pint of espagnole sauce ; boil ten minutes, finish with four ounces of 
butter and chopped parsley, and serve. 

We recommend cold boiled potatoes, because if raw and cut in 
squares, or if newly boiled and hot, they go to pieces before they are 
done. 

Corned Beef-Tongue has to be pricked with a dressing-needle, 
and soaked three hours in warm water before boiling ; two hours' boil- 
ing is enough to cook it ; boil the spinach separately in slightly salted 
water ; drain it without cooling, season with pepper and butter, and 
put on a dish ; remove the horny skin from the tongue, split it in two 
or cut it in slices ; put on the spinach, and serve. 

Roast Stuffed Chickens. — Take two fat, dry-picked chickens ; 
singe, draw, remove the lights, wash inside, wipe with a cloth, season 
a little, and stuff the crop and a little inside with poultry stuffing [No. 
T^-^ ; truss nicely, cover the breast with thin slices of fat pork, and roast 
for about fifty minutes ; untruss, dish up, and put a handful of water- 
cress at the lower opening ; add a little broth to the drippings, strain 
them over the chickens, and serve. 

Omelets ^ la Celestine. — Break a dozen eggs in a bowl ; beat 
them well ; mix with them four ounces of pulverized macaroons, two 
tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, and a little salt ; with these make 
eight small omelets of the same size garnished as follows : two with 
currant jelly rolled inside, two with apple sauce, two with marmalade, 
and two with cranberry sauce or jelly (or any other kinds of sweet 
jellies or frangipane) ; sprinkle fine sugar over, glaze them with a red- 
hot iron, and dish up in a circle. 



'470 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 286. 

Saturday, October 13. — Bill ot fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Paysan. 

Oyster patties. 

Shoulders ot lamb with rissoles ; 
Potatoes fried in quarters. 

Broiled teal-ducks ; 
Celery, remoulade sauce. 

Apple tart with jelly. 

Paysan Soup. — Pare and slice fine four carrots, four turnips, two 
onions, and the half of a medium-sized cabbage ; put these in a stew- 
pan with four ounces of butter and a tablespoonful of sugar, stir and 
fry light brown ; drain the butter ofi, wet with three quarts of beef- 
broth and ; quart of water, and boil one hour ; add a handful of finely 
cut sorrel and chervil, and boil two minutes longer ; cut in thin sippets 
and toast slightly four ounces of french bread ; put in a soup-tureen, 
pour the soup over, and serve. 

Oyster Patties. — Prepare about a pound of feuilletage paste [No. 
.278] ; then with a rolling-pin roll it down to a fourth of an inch thick, 
and let it rest five minutes ; with a channelled or a round paste-cutter 
three inches in diameter, cut eight or more rounds in the paste ; turn 
them over, put on a baking-sheet, egg the surface, and with a smaller 
round paste-cutter previously dipped in hot water cut an incision in 
the paste, and trace a few lines on the centre ; bake about twenty 
minutes, empty them, save the covers, and keep warm. 

Cook about three dozen good-sized oysters with pepper, nutmeg, 
and a little butter ; drain on a cloth, and save the liquor ; put in a 
saucepan an ounce of butter with an ounce of flour ; cook a little, 
dilute with part of the oyster liquor and veal-broth ; boil five minutes, 
add three egg-yolks, two ounces of butter, lemon-juice, and a pinch of 
red pepper ; stir, mix well without boiling, and press through a napkin 
into another saucepan ; add the oysters ; fill the patties, and dish up 
on a folded napkin. 

Shoulders of Lamb with Rissoles. — Bone two shoulders of 
lamb, season with salt and pepper, roll and tie them up with a string ; 
put them in a saucepan with four ounces of butter and fry light brown 
all round ; drain off the fat, add a pint of broth, a pint of white wine, 
the broken bones, a ladleful of tomato and two ladlefuls of espagnole 
sauce, an onion, and two sliced carrots and a bunch of parsley with 
aromatics ; cover and cook an hour and a half ; drain the shoulders, 
trim a little, strain and free the gravy of its fat and reduce to a demi- 



COOKERY BOOK, 471 

glaze sauce ; dish up the shoulders, surround with spinach rissoles, 
pour the sauce over the meat, and serve. 

Spinach Rissoles. — Prepare some well-seasoned and pretty thick 
mashed spinach ; have on a floured table some feuilletage paste [No. 
278], or trimmings of it ; roll down to the eighth of an inch ; with a 
paste-cutter cut four-inch rounds, put tablespoonfuls of spinach on 
each piece, moisten with a paste-brush, fold over, and press the edge 
with the thumb ; a few moments before serving, dip them in beaten 
eggs, and fry them slowly in plenty of clear, hot fat, then drain on a 
cloth. 

Broiled Teal. — Pick, singe, and draw four fat teal (lean ones are 
not worth picking) ; slit down the back, flatten slightly, season with 
salt and pepper, baste with oil and broil rare ; dish up on dry toast ; 
sprinkle a little rich gravy and melted butter over the birds, and serve. 

Apple Tart with Jelly. — Pare, core, and cut in halves six large 
cooking-apples ; cook in syrup and drain on a sieve ; prepare and 
bake a tart crust as directed [No. 156] ; line the bottom with apple 
marmalade ; arrange the boiled apples symmetrically over the mar- 
malade, mask with the well-reduced syrup, let cool, ornament with 
fanciful cuts of apple or currant jelly, and serve. 



No. 287. 



Sunday, October 14. — Bill of fare for eight persons 

Soup au pain (bread soup). 

Beef glazed wiih vegetables. 

Cutlets of squab, shallot sauce ; 
Broiled potatoes. 

Dame of salmon, Mayonnaise sauce. 

Pyramid of ice-cream panachee. 

The above, with the addition of small cakes and fruits of the season, 
is a common and abundant french family-dinner. 

Soup au Pain. — Cut half a pound of french bread in thin sippets ; 
put it in a soup-tureen ; strain and pour over it three quarts of well- 
skimmed beef-broth in which the following dish has been cooked, and 
serve. 

Beef Glazed with Vegetables. — Beef and vegetables which with 
the soup constitute the french pot-au-feu ; put in a stock-pot a piece of 
the round of beef weighing about ten pounds with four gallons of cold 
water and two ounces of salt ; boil slowly, scum well, add a little water 



472 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

to stop the boiling, and scum again ; then add four large carrots, four 
turnips, an onion, a parsnip, four leeks, and two stalks of celery tied 
together ; cook slowly for three hours, take out the beef, trim it neatly, 
and put it in a saucepan with a ladleful of the surface of the broth ; 
with a paste-brush spread some beef-extract on the fatty part, let it 
glaze slowly for an hour in a moderately hot oven ; have a large savoy 
cabbage cut in four parts ; boil it for five minutes in salted water to 
take away the strong odor ; cool, drain, and put in the broth after the 
beef has been taken out ; boil an hour longer and skim off all the fat. 
When the beef is of a nice brown color set it in a dish, trim neatly the 
carrots and turnips, and with the cabbage range them alternately around 
the beef, and serve ; a bowl of tomato sauce passed at the same 
time improves the dish. 

Cutlets of Squab, Shallot Sauce. — Take four or more large 
squab ; cut them in halves, remove all the bones but the wings and 
stumps, flatten a little, season with salt and pepper, put in a buttered 
sautoir, and fry three minutes only, to stiffen the meat ; press them be- 
tween two tin sheets and let cool ; then pare them a little, sprinkle 
with crumbs, dip in melted butter, roll in fresh crumbs, and broil 
slowly ; dish up in a circle alternately with slices of bread fried in but- 
ter ; pour a shallot sauce [No. 207] in the centre, add paper ruffles to 
the stump-bones, and serve. 

Darne of Salmon, Sauce Mayonnaise. — Procure a middle-cut 
of salmon weighing about five pounds and cook as directed [No. 266] ; 
let cool in the water ; then drain well and pare off the skin carefully ; 
trim three lettuce-stalks, save the hearts, cut the leaves in fine shreds, 
wash them well, press the water out, put in the centre of a flat dish, 
place the salmon thereon, and mask all over with a mayonnaise sauce 
[No. 254] ; surround with the quartered lettuce-hearts alternately with 
quartered hard-boiled eggs ; garnish with stoned olives, capers, and 
sliced beets, and serve. 

Pyramid of Ice-Cream Panachee. — Imbed a three-pint ice-cream 
pyramid-mould in ice ; fill perpendicularly by halves with vanilla and 
pistachio ice-cream (or some other sorts of different colors) ; cover 
hermetically and imbed entirely in salted ice for at least two hours ; 
serve in the ordinary way on a folded napkin. 



COOKERY BOOK. 473 

No. 288. 

Monday, October 15. — Bill of fare for eight persons: 
Soup : Puree of chicken a la reine. 

Sheep's-head, Georgia style ; 
Potatoes with melted butter. 

Tenderloin steaks with mushrooms ; 
String-beans sautes. 

Summer ducks, giblet sauce ; 
Celery salad. 

Cups of orange-flower custard. 

Puree of Chicken a la Reine. — Put in a stewpan a large 
chicken, a knuckle of veal, salt, a carrot, an onion with two cloves 
stuck in it, a bunch of parsley, two leeks, two stalks of celery, and five 
quarts of cold water ; set on the fire, scum well, and let boil ; when the 
chicken is done take it out, take off all the meat, put the skin and 
bones back in the stewpan, and let boil two hours longer ; by this time 
have in a saucepan a pint of well-washed rice with a quart of broth 
from the stewpan, strained and freed froin its grease ; season with a 
little white pepper and nutmeg, and cook an hour ; then chop the 
chicken-meat, and pound it very fine in a marble mortar ; add the 
rice, and pound again ; strain the rest of the broth through a napkin, 
skim the fat, dilute gradually the chicken and rice, and rub forcibly 
through a fine sieve ; return the puree to a saucepan, stir steadily, and 
heat without boiling ; finish with a pint of boiling creain, a little sugar, 
and two ounces of butter, and serve with small squares of bread fried 
in butter. 

Sheep's-Hea'd, Georgia Style. — Dress a large sheep's-head ; 
put it in a fish-pan with four ounces of butter, salt, a bunch of parsley, 
a green pepper, and an onion chopped fine, six peeled and sliced large 
tomatoes, a pint of white wine, and a pint of water ; set on the fire, 
boil, and let siinmer forty minutes ; then drain the fish, and keep 
warm ; remove the parsley, put the rest in a saucepan, reduce to one 
half, add a pint and a half of espagnole sauce, and boil down to a de- 
sirable consistency ; have eight medium-sized green peppers, take off 
the skin by immersing them for half a minute in frying-hot grease and 
then wiping the skin off with a towel ; cut them round the stem, and 
take it out with the seeds ; cook a pint of rice with a quart of broth, a 
ladleful of stewed tomatoes, a little salt, and two ounces of butter ; 
boil twenty minutes ; cool a little, fill the peppers with this, range them 
in a baking-pan, drop a little oil over, and bake them to a nice color in 
the oven ; slide the fish on a large dish, pour some of the sauce over, 



474 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

range the peppers round the fish, and serve with the rest of the sauce 
in a sauce-bowl. 

Tenderloin Steaks with Mushrooms. — Take four large tender- 
loin steaks ; flatten, pare nicely, and season with salt and pepper ; heat 
four ounces of beef-fat in a sautoir, place the steaks in it, fry briskly 
light brown on both sides and rather rare ; put the meat on a plate and 
drain off the fat ; put half a gill of madeira wine and a pint of espagnole 
sauce in the sautoir, boil a little, and add enough cooked mushrooms ; 
dish up the steaks in a row, one overlapping the other ; range the best 
of the mushrooms on top, pour the sauce over and the rest of the 
mushrooms round the steaks, and serve. 

Summer Ducks, Giblet Sauce. — Singe, draw, truss, and roast 
two large summer ducks ; boil the livers in a little fat, drain, slice fine, 
mingle with a ladleful of espagnole sauce, a little broth, and a pinch of 
red pepper ; untruss and dish up the ducks, add a little gravy to the 
drippings, strain them over the ducks, and serve with the sauce in a 
sauce-bowl. 

Cups of Orange-Flower Custard. — Proceed exactly as di- 
rected [No. 276], substituting two teaspoonfuls of orange-flower 
water for the vanilla-bean infusion. 



No. 289. 

Tuesday, October 16. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Rice and tomato. 

Fried sole a la Colbert ; 
Stewed potatoes. 

Epigrammes of lamb with timbales ; 
Brussels sprouts, sautes. 

Roast larded partridge ; 
Lettuce salad. 

Rum omelet. 

Rice and Tomato Soup. — Wash well six ounces of rice and par- 
boil for ten minutes in water ; cool, drain, put in a saucepan with two 
quarts of beef-broth [No. 263] and a quart of tomato puree ; boil fif- 
teen minutes longer, skim, add a teaspoonful of sugar, and serve. 

Fried Sole a la Colbert. — Choose three medium-sized sole (floun- 
ders) ; trim and scale them well, wash and wipe dry ; with a knife 
make an incision on the back from head to tail, and cut off the heads ; 
dip the fish in cold milk, then in flour, fry them crisp and of a nice 
color in plenty of clear, very hot fat ; drain them on a cloth, take the 
back-bone out, fill its place with cold butter seasoned with chopped 



COOKERY BOOK. 475 

parsley and lemon-juice ; turn them on a dish, the white side upper- 
most, garnish with fried parsley and quartered lemon, and serve imme- 
diately. 

Epigrammes of Lamb with Timbales. — Have eight lamb 
chops well trimmed, seasoned with salt and pepper, then breaded by 
being immersed first in melted butter, and then rolled in bread- 
crumbs ; have one large or two small breasts of lamb ; cook them in 
the stock-pot or by themselves with just enough water to cover the 
trimmings of the chops, salt, aromatics, and vegetables ; when done, 
drain them, take out the bones, and press the breasts between two flat 
dishes until cold ; then cut in pieces the shape and size of the chops, 
and bread them by dipping them first in beaten eggs, then in fresh 
bread-crumbs ; have besides a very consistent and highly seasoned 
macedoine of vegetables [No. 331], and eight small timbale-moulds, 
well buttered ; mix a liaison of eight egg-yolks with the macedoine, 
put this in the moulds, and cook for twenty minutes in a sautoir filled 
with boiling water to half the height of the moulds ; a few moments 
before serving, broil the chops and fry the breasts in clarified butter ; 
dish up in a circle a chop and a piece of breast, turn out the timbales, 
and range them with small flowerets of cauliflower round the meat ; 
pour a bechamel sauce in the centre, and serve. 

Brussels Sprouts, Sautes. — Pick about two quarts of small, 
firm sprouts ; wash well and boil in slightly salted water until tender ; 
cool and drain in a colander ; melt four ounces of butter in a large 
omelet-pan ; put in the sprouts, salt, and pepper ; set this on a brisk 
fire, and toss the pan until the sprouts are heated through ; add 
chopped parsley and lemon-juice, and serve. 

Roast Larded Partridge. — Pick, singe, and dress four tender 
partridge ; expose the breasts to the fire so as to stiffen them ; fasten 
to them rows of fine strips of fat pork, and roast about thirty minutes ; 
untruss, and dish up on four pieces of dry toast ; add a little broth to 
the drippings, strain them over the birds, add a handful of water-cress, 
and serve ; a bowl of bread sauce [No. 249] may be passed with the 
birds. 

Rum Omelet. — Break two eggs in a kitchen-vessel, and beat 
them with two ounces of sugar and a glass of rum ; melt four ounces 
of butter in an omelet-pan, and add the eggs ; stir on the fire, cook, 
roll the omelet on itself, turn on a dish, sprinkle with powdered sugar, 
and send to table ; then pour a glass of Jamaica rum on each side, ap- 
ply a lighted match to it, and serve after the alcohol has almost burned 
itself out. 



4/6 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 290. 

Wednesday, October 17. — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup : Sorrel and rice. 

Sea-bass au beurre noir ; 
Potatoes sautees. 

Baked chicken pot-pie ; 
Cauliflowers a la Bechamel. 



Loin of venison, currant-jelly sauce ; 
Celery salad. 

Apples a la Windsor. 

Sorrel and Rice Soup. — Pick and cook some sorrel as directed 
[No. 261] ; at the moment of serving add a liaison of four egg-yolks, 
two ounces of butter, and a cup of cream ; mix well without boiling, 
pour into a soup-tureen over a pint of hot boiled rice, and serve. 

Sea-Bass au Beurre Noir. — Boil four medium-sized sea-bass in 
salted water acidulated with vinegar ; when done and ready to serve, 
drain them very well, and set them in a dish with salt, pepper, and 
vinegar ; meanwhile put in an omelet-pan four ounces of butter, set 
on the fire, cook it to a dark-brown color, and take the pan off the fire; 
scum, and, while frying-hot, pour the clear part over the fish (the bot- 
tom is always black and muddy) ; add a handful of fried parsley, and 
serve. 

Baked Chicken Pot-Pie. — Have two chickens cut in pieces 
smaller than for fricassee ; put in a saucepan two ounces of butter 
with four ounces of streaked salt pork cut in square pieces, and fry five 
minutes ; put in the chicken, fry five minutes longer, and add an ounce 
and a half of flour ; mix well, dilute with water enough to cover the 
meat ; season with salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, a well-garnished bunch 
of parsley, and two quartered onions ; set to boil, stirring once in a 
while, and cook fifteen minutes ; then add six large raw potatoes cut in 
pieces, boil again till nearly done ; remove the parsley, skim the fat, 
pour the whole into a large earthen baking-dish, smooth the surface, 
and let cool ; in the meantime have enough feuilletage paste [No. 278] 
or trimmings, and roll it down on a floured table to the sixth of an inch 
thick ; moisten the edge of the dish, lay the paste over, trim it, and egg 
the surface ; with the point of a knife trace a few tranverse lines on the 
paste, make a hole in the middle, and bake for forty minutes in a mod- 
erately hot oven ; serve in the baking-dish. 

Loin of Venison, Currant-Jelly Sauce. — Take a good-sized 
loin of venison (half a saddle) ; saw off the spine, pare the surface of 
the large fillet, and fasten on that rows of fine salt-pork strips ; put the 



COOKERY BOOK. 477 

venison in a dish with salt, pepper, oil, a sliced lemon, and an onion 
also sliced, sprays of parsley, sprigs of thyme, and two bay-leaves ; 
let steep two hours ; then roll the flap over the small fillet, tie up, and 
roast rather rare for about an hour ; untie, pare a little, place on a 
dish, pour a little rich gravy round the venison, and serve with a cur- 
rant-jelly sauce [No. 275] in a sauce-bowl. 

Apples a la Windsor. — Pare and core eight large cooking- 
apples ; rub with half a lemon to preserve the whiteness ; boil in a 
light syrup, and drain on a sieve ; spread half-an-inch thick on a 
baking-pan some rice prepared as for croquettes [No. 264] ; smooth 
the surface, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and glaze light brown in the 
oven ; with an apple-sized paste-cutter cut rounds in the rice, put an 
apple on each round, and fill the hole in the centre with some marma- 
lade, range them on a dish, ornament with candied fruits, reduce the 
syrup to a proper consistency, pour it over the apples, and serve hot. 



No. 291. 

Thursday, October 18. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Ox-tail, French style. 

Broiled white-fish with sorrel ; 
Boiled potatoes. 

Partridge with cabbage. 

Roast loin of veal ; 
Lettuce and egg salad. 

Rice croquettes with currants, 

Ox-Tail, French Style. — Cut three ox-tails in short pieces ; 
steep them in cold water for two hours ; drain, parboil in fresh water, 
cool, wash well, and drain on a cloth ; melt three ounces of butter in 
a saucepan, put in the tails, stir, and fry until the butter turns clear, 
then drain it off ; wet with two quarts of beef-broth and two quarts of 
water, set to boil, skim, add a little salt and pepper, three carrots, a 
bunch of parsley with aromatics, two leeks tied with celery-stalks, and 
an onion with two cloves stuck in it ; cover, and cook slowly until the 
meat easily parts from the bones ; meanwhile fry light brown a dozen 
medium-sized onions in butter ; drain, wet with half a pint of broth, 
and cook slowly ; take up on a cloth the carrots cooked with the tails, 
divide in half-inch lengths, then with a half-inch tin tube cut them in 
small rounds ; with the aid of a skimmer transfer the tails to another 
saucepan, strain the broth over, add the rounds of carrot, the cooked 
onions, and more beef-broth if required ; boil, and skim again ; pour 
in a soup-tureen, and serve. 



478 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Broiled White-Fish with Sorrel.— Split down the back and 
boil a large or two medium-sized white-fish ; put them in a dish, spread 
a little melted butter over, and serve with fricasseed sorrel [No. 267] 
in a sauce-bowl. 

Partridge with Cabbage. — Select three large, fat partridge ; 
pick and dress them ; take two large savoy cabbages cut in quarters, 
wash, and boil them in salted water for ten minutes ; cool, press out 
the water, spread them on a cloth ; remove the stalks ; season with 
salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg ; have ready a stewpan large enough, 
put bardes of fat pork on the bottom, then the partridge, two carrots, a 
garnished bunch of parsley, a turnip, an onion with two cloves in 
it, half a pound of sausages, a piece of salt pork, and the cabbage 
spread on top ; put more bardes of fat pork over, and press all gently 
down with the hand ; moisten with two glasses of white wine and a 
quart of fat broth from the surface of the stock-pot ; set on the fire, 
and boil slowly for two hours (if the partridge are tender they will 
cook in half an hour, and may be taken out with the sausages ; if 
tough, let them boil longer) ; when the cabbages are done remove the 
upper layer of pork, then turn the whole over into a large colander 
previously set over a saucepan ; take up the pork and vegetables ; 
when the cabbages are well drained put some in a large dish, then the 
partridges, the rest of the cabbage over ; give the whole the form of a 
dome, garnish with the sausages, the pork and the carrots, all cut in 
thick slices and ranged alternately round the cabbage ; pour two 
ladlefuls of espagnole sauce over all, and serve. 

Roast Loin of Veal. — Take a white and fat loin of veal with 
the kidney attached ; saw off the spine and remove what is left of the 
hip-bone, season with salt and pepper ; tie up the flap over the kidney, 
put in a buttered sautoir with a glass of water, and bits of butter on 
top ; cover with a buttered paper, and cook in a moderate oven for 
nearly two hours, basting occasionally with the gravy ; drain, untie, 
place on a dish, add a little broth to the sautoir, skim the fat, reduce 
to a demi-glaze sauce, strain over the veal, and serve. 

Rice Croquettes with Currants. — Cook a pound of rice as di- 
rected for croquettes [No. 264], with the addition of six ounces of 
picked dry currants ; fry, and serve with a lemon sauce in a sauce- 
bowl. 



COOKERY BOOK. 479 

No. 292. 

Friday, October 19. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup: Bisque of crayfish. 

Baked smelts a la Mantoue ; 
Potato balls a la Rouennaise. 

Ribs of beef a la bourgeoise ; 
Brussels sprouts a 1' Espagnole. 

Roast black-birds on toast ; 
Escarole ami celery salad. 

Suedoise of pears. 

Bisque of Crayfish. — Have three dozen live crayfish ; wash them 
well, remove the intestine by picking the extreme end of the centre fin 
and with a sudden jerk withdrawing the gist containing the gall ; then 
put in a saucepan two ounces of butter, a carrot, an onion, a stalk of 
celery, two ounces of salt pork, all cut small, and a bunch of parsley 
with aromatics ; stir and fry ten m.inutes ; add the crayfish, a pint of 
white wine and a quart of veal-broth ; cover and boil gently for an 
hour ; then turn into a colander, remove the parsley, and save the 
liquid ; pick the meat from the crayfish tails, trim neatly, and keep till 
wanted ; cook separately a pint and a half of rice with three pints of 
veal-broth ; pound the rest of the crayfish and vegetables, add the rice, 
and pound again ; dilute with the saved liquid and more broth if re- 
quired, rub through a fine sieve, and return to a saucepan ; stir steadily 
with a wooden spoon, and heat well without boiling ; finish with three 
ounces of butter, a glass of madeira wine, and a pinch of red pepper ; 
pour into a soup-tureen, add the crayfish tails, and serve. 

Baked Smelt a la Mantoue. — Put in a narrow baking-dish 
half-an-inch thick of fish force-meat [No. 12] ; arrange two dozen large 
and well-cleansed smelt upon it ; strew salt, pepper, chopped parsley, 
and mushrooms over them ; mask with veloute sauce [No. 274], 
sprinkle with fresh crumbs and a little grated parmesan cheese ; put a 
bit of butter on each smelt, and bake briskly for twenty minutes ; press 
the juice of a lemon over, and serve in the baking-dish. 

Potato Balls ^ la Rouennaise. — Make a preparation as for 
potatoes a la duchesse [No. 258] ; put it on a floured table, divide and 
roll in pieces the shape and size of a pigeon's egg ; dip them in a flour 
batter, and fry light brown in plenty of clear, very hot grease ; sprinkle 
fine salt over them, and serve on a folded napkin. 

Ribs of Beef ^ la Bourgeoise. — Take a two-rib piece of beef; 
saw off the spine, shorten the ribs, truss firmly, and cook as directed 
[No. 271] ; drain, untruss, and pare a little ; dish up, surround with 



48o FRANCO-AMERICAN 

quartered carrots cooked with the beef, and glazed turnips and onions 
cooked separately ; pour part of the reduced gravy over the beef, and 
serve. 

Brussels Sprouts a V Espagnole. — Boil and prepare brussels 
sprouts as directed [No. 289] ; turn them in a deep dish, pour round 
them some demi-glaze sauce from the beef, and serve. 

Roast Black-Birds on Toast. — Pick two dozen black-birds ; 
void, pare off the neck, wings, and legs ; cover the breast with thin 
slices of bacon, put them on eight short skewers, and roast briskly 
for twelve minutes ; range on eight pieces of dry toast ; add a glass 
of white wine or broth to the drippings, pour them over the birds, 
garnish with water-cress, and serve. 

Suedoise of Pears. — Pare, cut in halves, and core a dozen cook- 
ing-pears (keep the best one whole for the centre) ; rub with lemon- 
juice to preserve the whiteness, cook in a light syrup, and drain on 
a hair-sieve ; then proceed and serve as directed [No. 194] for 
peaches. 

No. 293. 

Saturday, October 20. — Bill of fare for eight persons . 

Soup : Croute au pot. 

Fresh mackerel a la Havraise ; 
Potatoes, English style. 

Mutton chops, gherkin sauce ; 
Cauliflowers a la HoUandaise. 



Sweetbreads a la Villeroi ; 
Chiccory salad. 

Calf's-foot jelly au Dantzic. 

Croute au Pot. — Prepare a strong beef-broth [No. 287] ; cook in 
it half a savoy cabbage previously boiled in salted water to take away 
the strong odor ; when done take the carrots, turnips, leeks, and cab- 
bage out of the broth ; trim them all, cut in pieces, and keep warm till 
wanted ; meanwhile have two french rolls, cut each one in four pieces, 
remove the white crumb, butter them lightly, and dry them on a mod- 
erately heated oven for ten minutes ; when ready to serve, put the vege- 
tables in a soup-tureen, the bread-crusts over, and then enough boiling 
beef-broth, freed from its grease ; cover up, and serve. 

Fresh Mackerel a la Havraise. — Choose four large, fresh 
mackerel ; clean well, make an incision down the back to the bone ; 
be sure to remove the blood-vessel along the spine, for in boiled or 
baked fishes it always gives a bad, oily taste ; put them in a fish-pan 



COOKERY BOOK. 481 

with four ounces of butter, two tablespoonfuls of chopped shallots, salt, 
pepper, and nutmeg ; moisten with a pint of white wine, cover up, and 
cook slowly for thirty minutes ; drain the fish on a dish, thicken the 
sauce with an ounce of flour kneaded with butter ; boil five minutes, 
add a liaison made of three egg-yolks and a cup of cream ; mix well 
without boiling, press through a napkin, finish with lemon-juice- and 
chopped parsley, pour over the well-drained fish, and serve. 

Potatoes, English Style. — Boil enough even-sized potatoes ; 
peel them, put them in a vegetable-dish with salt, pepper, and nut- 
meg ; pour some melted butter over, and serve ; be sure that the but- 
ter does not boil, for it would lose all its savor. 

Mutton Chops, Gherkin Sauce. — Cut and pare eight mutton 
chops ; season with salt and pepper, and broil rare ; dish up in a circle 
alternately with heart-shaped slices of bread fried in butter ; pour a 
gherkin sauce in the centre, add small paper rufiles to the bones, and 
serve. 

Cauliflowers ^ la Hollandaise. — Cauliflowers are so good and 
cheap at this time of the year, that we can hardly refrain from recom- 
mending them every day, in one way or another ; pare out the green 
leaves, and boil two heads of cauliflower in slightly salted water ; 
drain, dish up on a folded napkin, and serve with a hollandaise sauce 
in a sauce-bowl. 

Sweetbreads a la Villeroi. — Pare four large sweetbreads ; 
steep in water for an hour, parboil in fresh water, cool, and press be- 
tween two sheets ; this done, slit each sweetbread in two, put them in 
a sautoir on a slow fire with four ounces of butter, salt, pepper, and 
grated nutmeg ; cover, and cook slowly on both sides until done ; add 
a pint of allemande sauce and four egg-yolks ; stir them in, and cool 
partially ; transfer the sweetbreads to an oiled tin sheet, having 
wrapped them well in the sauce, and let cool ; sprinkle with dry 
crumbs, dip them in beaten eggs, roll in fresh crumbs, smooth with the 
blade of a knife, and fry in clarified butter ; drain on a cloth, dish up 
in a circle on a folded napkin, put fried parsley in the centre, and 
serve with a tomato sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Calf S-Foot Jelly au Dantzic. — Boil four calf's feet and prepare 
three pints of jelly as directed [No. 198] ; cool till it begins to stiffen ; 
add a gill of gold-leaf-spangled dantzic brandy, and mix carefully ; 
pour into a three-pint cylindrical jelly-mould previously imbedded in 
ice ; cool thoroughly, and serve in the ordinary way. 



482 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 294. 

Sunday, October 21. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Printanier, aux quenelles. 

Oysters a la poulette. 

Loin of beef, Bruxelloise ; 
Potatoes, Julienne, 

Widgeon duck, currant jelly ; 
Celery salad. 

Charlotte glacee a la vanille. 

Printanier, aux Quenelles. — Prepare three quarts of printanier 
soup cis directed [No. 25] ; add a pint of small chicken quenelles ; 
pour into a soup-tureen, and serve. 

Chicken Force-Meat for Quenelles, etc. — Begin by making a 
bread panada as follows : Take four ounces of stale white crumb, soak 
in cold water for ten minutes, press out the water, and put in a sauce- 
pan with two ounces of butter ; set on the fire, and stir until the bread 
gets pasty, and sticks neither to the saucepan nor the wooden spoon ; 
then add four egg-yolks, and cook two minutes longer ; turn on a 
plate, put an oiled paper over, and let cool till wanted ; have ten 
ounces of raw white chicken meat, take out all the sinews, chop and 
pound the meat to a pulp ; rub it vigorously through a wire sieve 
with the back of a wooden spoon, then put it in the mortar with the 
bread panada ; pound and mix well, add six ounces of fresh butter, 
previously kept on ice, and season with salt, white pepper, and nutmeg ; 
then stir into it one by one four whole eggs, four egg-yolks, and two 
tablespoonfuls of either veloute, allemande, or bechamel sauce ; take 
up and keep on ice till wanted ; then with a teaspoon drop small quan- 
tities of the above preparation on a floured table, and with the palm of 
the hand roll them down the shape and size of an olive ; drop them in 
boiling water, let simmer two minutes, and drain on a sieve. 

We are very particular in giving the above recipe, as it forms a 
large part of so many preparations, and is often referred to. 

Oysters a la Poulette. — Cook and prepare three dozen large 
oysters as directed [No. 286] ; add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, 
mix well, and dish up either in a bread border [No. 155], or surround 
with heart-shaped slices of bread fried in butter ; serve. 

Loin of Beef a la Bruxelloise. — Prepare and cook a ten-pound 
loin piece of beef as directed [No. 81] ; strain, skim the fat, and reduce 
the gravy to a demi-glaze sauce ; untruss, pare, and dish up the beef ; 
surround with prepared Brussels sprouts [No. 289], pour part of the 
sauce over the beef, and serve the rest in a sauce-bowl. 



COOKERY BOOK 483 

Widgeon Duck, Currant Jelly. — Pick, dress, and cook four 
widgeon, as directed for teal [No. 261] ; serve in the same way with a 
glass of currant jelly turned up on a plate. 

Charlotte Glacee ^ la Vanille. — Line the bottom and sides of 
a plain charlotte-mould with lady-fingers, and fill with vanilla ice- 
cream [No. 91] ; cover hermetically, imbed in salted ice until serving- 
time, turn on a folded napkin, and serve. 

Liaison of Egg- Yolks to Thicken White Sauces, Soups, 
etc. — Put in a bowl the desired number of egg-yolks, with twice the 
quantity of cold water ; mix well, and press through a napkin ; when 
using, always put with this small bits of butter, to prevent the soup or 
sauce from curdling. 



No. 295. 

Monday, October 22. — Bill of fare for eight persons 

Soup : Bisque of oysters a la Shrewsbury. 

Stuffed lobster, Narragansett style ; 
Potato croquettes. 

Bouchees i la reine ; 
Baked cauliflowers, Bechamel. 



Sirloin steaks, Lyonnaise sauce ; 
Tomato salad. 



Apple dumplings. 

Bisque of Oysters ^ la Shrewsbury. — Make a bisque of 
oysters as directed [No. 267], but instead of bread-crumbs serve in 
it half a pint of small oyster crabs previously cooked for two minutes 
in boiling salted water. 

Stuffed Lobster, Narragansett Style. — Have two large lob- 
sters ; boil them for thirty minutes in salted water seasoned with half 
a pint of vinegar, pepper-corns, two sprigs of thyme, and four bay- 
leaves ; let them cool, drain, and cut them lengthwise ; clean out the 
intestines, take all the meat from the bodies, tails, and claws ; chop it 
a little, and save the shells from bodies and tails ; put in a saucepan 
two ounces of butter and two tablespoonfuls of chopped shallots • stir 
and cook a while ; add a pint of allemande or bechamel sauce, then 
the lobster meat with two handfuls of moistened and pressed white 
bread-crumbs ; season with salt, white and red pepper, and grated nut- 
meg ; let boil five minutes, stirring steadily with a wooden spoon ; add 
four egg-yolks, mix well, and boil two minutes longer ; finish with the 
juice of a lemon and chopped parsley ; set the eight pieces of lobster- 
shell (four from the two bodies and four from the tails) iu z, baking- 



484 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

dish ; fill them with the above preparation, smooth the surface with the 
blade of a knife, sprinkle fine bread-crumbs over, put small bits of but- 
ter atop, bake for ten minutes in a very hot oven, and serve immedi- 
ately on a folded napkin. 

Bouchees d la Reine. — With some feuilletage paste [No. 278] 
make eight or more small patty crusts, as explained for oyster patties 
[No. 286], but half an inch smaller ; then prepare a garnishing a la 
reine as follows : Cut in small dices some cooked white chicken meat 
and mushrooms, enough of both to fill the patties ; put this in a small 
saucepan with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and a ladleful of allemande 
sauce, and heat well ; fill the patties, set the cover on, and serve on a 
folded napkin. 

Sirloin Steaks, Lyonnaise Sauce. — Take four sirloin steaks of 
about twelve ounces each ; flatten pretty well, pare, season with salt 
and pepper, and broil rare ; place on a dish, pour a lyonnaise sauce 
over, and serve. 

Lyonnaise Sauce. — Chop four onions, put them in a saucepan 
with two ounces of butter, and fry light brown ; add a tablespoonful of 
white-wine vinegar and a pint of espagnole sauce ; stir and boil five 
minutes, and finish with a pinch of black pepper and a tablespoonful 
of chopped parsley. 

Apple Dumplings. — Have eight large cooking-apples, peel them, 
and take the cores out ; make a paste with a pound of flour, warm 
milk, and half an ounce of salt ; make as many balls as you have 
apples, put them on a floured table, and roll them down very thin ; put 
an apple on the centre of each, fill the hole in the centre with powdered 
sugar, moisten the edges, and fold the paste up ; tie each one in a small 
cloth previously buttered and floured ; have boiling water in a large 
stewpan, plunge the apples in it, and boil forty minutes ; drain, take off 
the cloth, put the dumplings on a dish, and serve either with a hard 
sauce separately on a plate, or with a lemon sauce [No. 264] poured 
over the dumplings. 



COOKERY BOOK. 485 

No. 296. 

Tuesday, October 23. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Rice, a la Turque. 

Fillets of sole, English style ; 
Potatoes a la Mantaise. 

Blanquette of veal ; 
Boiled cauliflowers, butter sauce. 

Haunch of venison, game sauce ; 
Chiccory salad. 

Mirlitons de Rouen. 

Rice, ^ la Turque. — Put in a saucepan two ounces of butter and 
a pint of well-washed dried rice ; stir and fry fave minutes ; add a pint 
and a half of boiling beef-broth, a little salt, and half a teaspoonful of 
pulverized saffron ; boil twenty minutes ; meanwhile have ready eight 
or more small, plain timbale-moulds well buttered • fill them with the 
rice, press it gently down, and keep them warm in a saucepan with hot 
water to half their height ; when ready to serve send up enough beef- 
broth in a soup-tureen ; turn the timbales on a plate, and serve one to 
every person with the broth. 

Fillets of Sole, English Style. — Take the fillets of two large 
flounders ; pare off the skin, season with salt and pepper, sprinkle with 
flour, dip in beaten eggs, roll in fresh crumbs, smooth nicely, and fry 
light brown in plenty of very hot fat ; drain, dish up on a folded nap- 
kin, garnish with fried parsley, and serve with a tomato sauce in a 
sauce-bowl. 

Potatoes a la Mantaise. — Cook and mash potatoes as directed 
[No. 258] ; save four tablespoonfuls and pile up the rest in dome form 
in a buttered vegetable-dish ; put what has been saved in a saucepan 
with two egg-yolks, an ounce of butter, and a little milk ; stir and cook 
two minutes ; beat three egg-whites to a froth, mix with the potatoes 
in the saucepan, mask those in the dish with this, smooth the surface, 
sprinkle with fresh crumbs, drop a little melted butter over, and bake 
light brown for fifteen minutes ; serve immediately. 

Blanquette of Veal. — Procure a short breast of white veal ; cut 
it in pieces and steep in water for an hour ; drain, put in a saucepan 
with fresh water, and boil five minutes ; turn in a colander and save 
the broth ; wash the meat well, drain on a cloth, trim a little, return to 
a saucepan with four ounces of butter ; put this on a brisk fire and stir 
until the butter turns clear, sprinkle two ounces of flour over, mix well, 
dilute with the broth ; add salt, pepper, nutmeg, a bunch of parsley 
with aromatics, a carrot, and an onion with three cloves in it ; cover 



486 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

and boil slowly for about forty minutes ; skim the fat, remove the pars- 
ley, carrot, and onion, add a liaison of four egg-yolks, two ounces of 
butter, and lemon-juice, stirring the sauce without boiling ; dish up, 
garnish with heart-shaped fried slices of bread, and serve. 

Haunch of Venison, Game Sauce. — Take a small haunch (leg 
and hip), saw off the shank-bone, pare and lard the surface, truss, and 
roast to a nice color about an hour and a half ; dish up, pour a little 
gravy round the venison, add a paper ruffle to the handle, and serve 
with a game sauce [No. 15] in a sauce-bowl and currant jelly on a plate. 

Mirlitons de Rouen. — Make a feuilletage paste [No. 278] ; roll 
it out a sixth of an inch thick ; then with a tin paste-cutter cut rounds 
three inches in diameter ; put each one in a small round and buttered 
plain tart-mould ; with the thumbs and forefingers raise the edge of the 
paste about half an inch higher ; for a dozen mirlitons break in a small 
basin three eggs with three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, three 
tablespoonfuls of double-thick sweet cream, and three drops of lemon 
oil ; beat this preparation with a tablespoon ; when well mixed divide 
in the prepared moulds, and with a sugar sprinkler spread a pretty 
thick coat of sugar dust (glaze) over them ; bake them immediately in 
a moderately hot oven. 

No. 297. 

Wednesday, October 24. — Bill of fare for eight persons ; 

Soup : Vermicelli, Windsor style. 

Striped bass a la dauphine ; 
Potatoes, Hollandaise. 



Haricot of lamb, Parisienne 
Baked tomatoes. 



Green goose, apple sauce ; 
Beet and lettuce salad. 



Croutes au Madere. 

Vermicelli Soup, Windsor Style.— Prepare three quarts of 
consomme [No. 133] ; thicken with three ounces of flour cooked in but- 
ter, season with white and a pinch of red pepper, and grated nutmeg ; 
boil half an hour, skim, and press through a napkin ; add six ounces 
of vermicelli previously boiled in salted water and half a pint of 
chicken quenelles [No. 126] ; give it a boil, add a cup of raw cream, 
pour into a soup-tureen, and serve. 

Striped Bass a la Dauphine.— Take a striped bass of about 
four pounds ; pare and clean nicely ; put on a fish-pan with salt, pep- 
per, a bunch of parsley with aromatics, a sliced onion, a pint of white 



COOKERY BOOK. 487 

wine, a pint of water, and four ounces of butter in small bits on top ; 
cover with a buttered paper, boil, and then cook in a moderate oven 
for about forty minutes, basting often with the liquid * drain the bass, 
add some white broth and oyster liquor to the gravy, and strain it in a 
small saucepan ; skim the fat, thicken with two ounces of flour kneaded 
in butter, boil ten minutes, add a liaison of three egg-yolks, four ounces 
of butter, a tablespoonful of anchovy-essence, a pinch of red pepper, 
and lemon-juice ; stir on the fire without boiling and press through a 
napkin ; slide the fish on a dish, garnish lightly with mushrooms, 
blanched oysters, and scollops ; pour the sauce over the fish and gar- 
nishing, surround with eight boiled crayfish, and serve. 

Haricot of Lamb a la Parisienne. — Select a fat and white fore- 
quarter of lamb ; save the chops for further use ; cut the neck, breast, 
and shoulder in square pieces ; put them in a saucepan with four ounces 
of butter ; stir and fry briskly until of a nice brown color ; drain off 
the fat, add two ounces of flour, mingle well, cook a minute longer ; 
dilute with three pints of water and two ladlefuls of tomato sauce ; 
season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and set to boil ; then with a 
skimmer transfer the meat to another saucepan and press the sauce 
through a fine strainer over the meat ; add a bunch of parsley with 
aromatics, some trimmed carrots and turnips cut small, and two dozen 
small onions lightly sugared and colored in frying butter ; boil half an 
hour, then add a pint of potatoes scooped in parisian style [No. 269], 
boil slowly half an hour longer' ; take the saucepan off the fire, let it 
rest for ten minutes, remove the parsley and all the fat ; dish up in a 
pyramidal form, and serve. 

Baked Tomatoes. — Scald and peel about sixteen ripe tomatoes ; 
put them on a buttered baking-dish with salt and pepper ; baste with 
melted butter, and cook in a brisk oven ; dish up, pour a ladleful of 
tomato sauce round, and serve. 

Roast Green Goose, Apple Sauce. — Singe, draw, and truss 
nicely a fat goose not over four months old ; roast for about an hour 
and a quarter ; salt, untruss, dish up, add a ladleful of rich gravy to 
the drippings, skim the fat, strain the gravy over the goose, and serve 
with apple sauce [No. 51] in a sauce-bowl. 

Croutes au Madere. — Prepare and serve the croQtes au madere 
as the croutes aux peches [No. 270], but garnish them with every kind 
of fresh-cooked and preserved fruits on hand, and reduce the syrup 
with four tablespooafuls of apricot marmalade and two glasses of ma- 
deira wine. 



488 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 298. 

Thursday, October 25. — Bill of fare for eight persons: 

Soup : Sorrel and veal. 

Lobster sautes a la Bonnefoy ; 
Boiled rice. 



Veal cutlets a la Zingara ; 
Fried sweet potatoes. 

Roast red-head ducks ; 
Curled celery in glass. 

Qlufs a la neige (floating islands). 

Sorrel and Veal Soup. — Pick and melt enough sorrel as 
directed [No. 261] ; wet with five pints of veal-broth; season with a 
little salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and boil five minutes ; add a liaison of 
four egg-yolks, two ounces of butter, and a cup of raw cream ; mix 
well without boiling, pour into a soup-tureen over two french rolls cut 
in thin sippets, and serve. 

Veal-Broth. — Put in a stewpan eight pounds of knuckle of veal 
with three gallons of cold water ; set on the fire, start slowly, skim 
well, season with salt, a tablespoonful of pepper-corns, half a nutmeg, 
two carrots, two leeks, two onions with four cloves stuck in them, four 
stalks of celery, and a garnished bunch of parsley ; boil slowly for 
three hours, skim off the fat and pass the broth through a wet napkin ; 
we recommed a wet napkin or cloth to strain all the broths, because 
they pass through more quickly, clearly, and free from any soapy taste. 
This recipe with a little water added may be used for all dishes re- 
quiring veal-broth. 

Lobster a la Bonnefoy. — Select three medium-sized live lobsters ; 
trim and cut them as for a curry of lobster [No. 277] ; put two ounces 
of butter and two tablespoonfuls of sweet oil in a saucepan with two 
tablespoonfuls of chopped shallots ; fry a little, add the lobster, a pint 
of white wine, a glass of brandy, salt, white and red pepper, a gar- 
nished bunch of parsley, a pared and sliced lemon freed from seeds, 
and a pint of veloute sauce ; boil quickly for fifteen minutes, remove 
the parsley, add two ounces of butter, and serve with boiled rice, 
separately, on a dish. 

Veal Cutlets a la Zingara. — Pare and flatten eight veal cutlets ; 
put them in a sautoir with four ounces of butter, and fry light brown 
on both sides ; drain off the butter, add a glass of sherry, wine, a ladle- 
ful of veal-broth, a pint of espagnole sauce, and let boil slowly for half 
an hour ; have eight thin boiled slices of ham cut the shape of the cut- 
lets, put them with the cutlets, let the whole simmer a minute or so, 



COOKERY BOOK. 489 

dish up alternately in a circle, pour the sauce in the centre, and serve. 

Fried Sweet Potatoes. — Have sufficient cold, boiled sweet 
potatoes ; cut them in quarters, sprinkle with flour, and fry light brown 
in plenty of clear and very hot fat ; drain on a cloth, salt, dish up on a 
folded napkin, and serve. 

Roast Red-Head Ducks. — Pick two or more large and fat red- 
head ducks ; singe, draw, truss nicely, and roast briskly for twenty- 
five minutes ; dish up, put a tablespoonful of cold water inside of each 
duck to prevent the juice from coagulating, and serve with a glass of 
currant jelly, turned on a plate. 

CEufs a la Neige (Floating Islands). — Have a dozen fresh eggs ; 
part the yolks from the whites and keep the yolks till wanted ; whip 
the whites very hard (like snow) ; mix with them six ounces of powdered 
sugar and a few drops of vanilla-essence ; then drop one by one table- 
spoonfuls of this preparation in boiling sweetened milk ; when done on 
one side, turn them over, then drain them all on a sieve ; put the yolks 
in a saucepan with six ounces of sugar and a pint and a half of milk 
(or the milk previously used with less sugar) ; mix well and stir steadily 
on the fire until the milk thickens without boiling, strain, and let cool ; 
pour some in a dish, range the cooked egg-whites over, and serve with 
the rest of the sauce in a sauce-bowl. 



No. 299. 

Friday, October 76. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Gumbo of oysters. 

Minced cod a la Bechamel ; 
Baked mashed potatoes. 

Racks of mutton, mashed turnips ; 
Green-corn fritters. 

Roast broad-bill ducks , 
Celery, Mayonnaise sauce. 



Gelee a la Benedictine. 

Gumbo of Oysters. — Put in a stewpan two ounces of butter, two 
tablespoonfuls of chopped shallots, and two ounces of salt pork cut 
small ; fry light brown, add an ounce of flour, dilute with half a pint 
of white wine, a quart of water, and a quart of veal-broth ; season 
with salt, a green pepper cut very small, a garnished bunch of parsley, 
two leeks, four blades of mace, and two stalks of celery tied together ; 
boil slowly for forty minutes, then add three dozen good-sized oysters 
with their liquor ; boil four minutes longer, remove the parsley, leeks, 
and celery ; skim well ; let drop into the soup like rain six tablespoon- 



490 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

fuls of gumbo-powder, stirring all the while ; boil no longer, taste the 
seasoning ; serve in a soup-tureen, and with the soup a dish of plain- 
boiled rice. 

Minced Cod a la Bechamel. — Have a fresh cod weighing 
about eight pounds ; cut it in three or four pieces, boil it in salted 
water acidulated with a glass of vinegar ; let cool, drain, and pick off 
all the meat from the bones and skin ; prepare a quart of bechamel 
sauce [No. 270], add three egg-yolks to make it stiff er, and season 
highly ; have a plated or china baking-dish, butter the bottom, strew it 
with fresh bread-crumbs ; then put in a thick layer of minced cod, 
follow with a few tablespoonfuls of sauce, then another layer of cod, 
and so on until the whole is used, finishing with sauce and giving the 
mass a dome form ; sprinkle more bread-crumbs over, then a few bits 
of butter, and bake to a nice color for about thirty minutes in a mod- 
erate oven ; serve in the baking-dish. 

Racks of Mutton and Mashed Turnips. — Choose two racks, 
ten ribs each, of not too fat but juicy and tender mutton (see that the 
ends of the breast-bones are reddish, which shows that the mutton is 
young) ; trim them, and cut off the spinal bone ; tie each one firmly 
with a string to keep the fat in its place ; put them in a saucepan, gar- 
nish, and cook as directed for carbonades of mutton [No. 282] ; when 
done, trim them neatly, and keep them warm in a dish ; strain the 
gravy, free it from its fat, and reduce with two ladlefuls of espagnole 
sauce ; serve the mutton on a thick layer of pretty stiff puree of white 
turnips, and pour the gravy over. 

Corn Fritters. — Cut enough fresh-cooked sweet corn off the 
cobs ; put in a large bowl two raw eggs, three tablespoonfuls of flour, 
salt, pepper, and a little milk ; mix well, add the corn, mix again ; 
have some hot lard in a large flat frying-pan ; heat well, and with a 
tablespoon drop the preparation into the pan ; when done on one side, 
turn, and cook the other side ; drain on a cloth, and serve on a folded 
napkin. 

Roast Broad-Bill Ducks. — Select four fresh and fat broad-bill 
ducks ; pick, dress, roast, and serve as directed for widgeon [No. 294]. 

Gelee a la Benedictine. — Clarify three pints of sweet jelly with 
an ounce and a half of gelatine as directed [No. 2] ; cool partially, add 
a gill of benedictine liqueur, and mix carefully with a silver spoon ; 
imbed a cylindrical jelly-mould in ice, pour in the jelly, cool thor- 
oughly, and serve in the usual way. 



COOKERY BOOK. 

No. 300. 

Saturday, October 27. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Giblet, English style. 

Salmon a la regence ; 
Boiled potatoes, melted butter. 

Lamb chops, Proven^ale ; 
Succotash. 



491 



Entrecotes of beef, with marrow ; 
Lettuce salad. 



Cream fritters, apricot sauce. 

Giblet Soup, English Style. — Cut the giblet, and proceed as 
for giblet, french style [No. 281], so far as frying in butter ; sprinkle 
with three ounces of flour, stir, and fry two minutes longer ; dilute at 
first with a quart of cold water, and then with two quarts of boiling 
beef-broth ; stir with a wooden spoon until the whole boils (to be cer- 
tain that it is smooth) ; transfer with a skimmer all the meat to an- 
other saucepan, and strain the liquid over ; add a garnished bunch of 
parsley, the white stalks of two heads of celery cut in square pieces, 
two dozen small onions previously lightly sugared and browned in fry- 
ing butter, a gill of sherry wine, a little salt, white and red pepper ; 
boil gently for an hour, skim well, and serve. 

Salmon a la Regence. — Choose a thick piece of salmon weigh- 
ing about five pounds ; pare off the skin from one side ; with the blade 
of a knife spread a thick layer of fish force-meat on the pared side, and 
with a few slices of truffles and lobster-coral (if any) make a few orna- 
ments on the force-meat ; put thin bardes of fat pork on the ornaments, 
and a buttered paper over ; put the fish in a large flat saucepan with a 
garnished bunch of parsley, salt, and white pepper, a pint of white 
wine, and half a pint of water ; cover the whole, and cook slowly for 
an hour ; drain the fish on a dish, and keep the lard and paper until 
the moment of serving ; add a little veal-broth to the gravy, and make 
a joinville sauce [No. 283] with it ; slide the fish on a large dish, re- 
move the paper and lard, garnish with a few heads of mushrooms, a 
few slices of truffles, and force-meat quenelles ; pour the sauce over 
the garnishing, range eight or more cooked crayfish round the dish, 
and send to table with more sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Lamb Chops a la Provengale. — Take eight large lamb chops ; 
pare, flatten, season with salt and pepper, and put in a sautoir (flat 
saucepan) with two ounces of sweet oil ; fry briskly and light brown on 
both sides ; drain off the oil, add a pint of proven^ale sauce [No. 305], 
stir a minute, dish up in a circle alternately with chop-shaped slices of 
bread fried in oil, pour the sauce in the centre, and serve. 



492 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Succotash. — Put in equal parts in a saucepan cooked corn off the 
cob, lima-beans, and string-beans cut in short pieces ; add salt, pepper, 
four ounces of butter, and a pint of milk ; boil ten minutes, and serve. 

Entrecotes of Beef, with Marrow. — Flatten, pare, season 
with salt and pepper, baste with oil, and broil rare two large entrecotes 
of beef ; place on a dish, pour a marrow sauce over, and serve. 

Marrow Sauce. — Put in a small saucepan an ounce of butter, 
four shallots chopped fine, and two glasses of white wine, and reduce 
to one half ; add half a pint of espagnole sauce, salt, pepper, and 
chopped parsley ; a few moments before serving, slice, and put the 
beef-marrow in a small strainer ; dip this for a minute or so in boiling 
salted water, and drain ; put it on the steaks, pour the sauce over and 
round the dish, and serve very hot. 

Cream Fritters, Apricot Sauce. — Prepare some cream fritters 
as directed [No. 269] ; divide in the same way, dip in a flour batter 
[No. 5], and fry pretty crisp and light brown in plenty of very hot fat ; 
drain on a cloth, sprinkle with powdered sugar, dish up on a folded 
napkin, and serve with an apricot sauce [No. 34] in a sauce-bowl. 



No. 301. 

Sunday, October 28. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Printanier, a la Victoria. 

Scolloped oysters ; 
Potatoes sautees. 



Leg of mutton, with glazed turnips ; 
Spinach, English style. 

Roast canvas-back ducks ; 
Celery salad. 

Bombe aux fruits, 

Printanier, ^ la Victoria. — Prepare and cook some vegetables as 
for printanier soup ; put them in a saucepan with three quarts of con- 
somme [No. 133] ; boil five minutes, skim, add a handful of finely 
shredded chervil, sorrel, and lettuce-leaves, and boil a minute longer ; 
pour into a soup-tureen, add a pint of small chicken force-meat que- 
nelles, lightly reddened with lobster-coral pounded to a paste, and 
serve. 

Scolloped Oysters. — Cook the oysters and proceed as directed 
[No. 294], but make the sauce shorter and a little thicker by adding 
four egg-yolks ; have a deep, lightly buttered baking-dish, sprinkle 
with pulverized crackers, put the oysters in, sprinkle more crackers 



COOKERY BOOK. 493 

over, put small bits of butter on top ; bake for fifteen minutes in a 
pretty hot oven, squeeze half a lemon over, and serve immediately. 

Potatoes Sautees. — Pare and slice enough small, cold boiled 
potatoes ; put them in a large omelet-pan with four ounces of melted 
butter, season with salt and pepper ; put on a brisk fire and toss them 
occasionally until they are light brown, drain off the butter, add an 
ounce more of fresh butter, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and 
serve. 

Leg of Mutton with Glazed Turnips.— Select a large leg of 
tender mutton ; pare the handle and remove the hip-bone, season 
with salt and pepper, tie up the leg firmly with a string, and stew it 
slowly for three hours, with a garnishing of vegetables, two glasses of 
white wine, and a quart of broth ; this done, drain the mutton on a dish, 
pare a little, and keep warm ; strain and free the gravy from its fat, 
and reduce with a pint of espagnole sauce. 

Glazed Turnips.- — Have fifteen good-sized white turnips ; peel 
them neatly, cut each one in about four pieces, trim a little, and put in 
a frying-pan with a pound of hot lard and a little sugar ; set on the 
fire, and fry briskly until all the pieces are of a dark-yellow color ; 
drain on a colander, transfer to a flat saucepan, with a ladlef ul of beef- 
broth and a pint of espagnole sauce ; season with salt and pepper, and 
let simmer slowly until well done ; dish up the mutton, range the tur- 
nips round it, pour the mutton gravy over all, and serve. 

Roast Canvas-Back Ducks. — Pick, singe, and draw two can- 
vas-back ducks ; put a pinch of salt inside, truss nicely, use the head 
to close the upper opening, and the rump for the lower one, and roast 
them rare (on the spit, if possible) for about twenty-five minutes ; salt 
a little, place them on a dish, put a tablespoonful of cold water inside 
to prevent the coagulation of the juice, and serve with a glass of cur- 
rant jelly, turned on a crystal plate. 

Bombe aux Fruits. — Line the two halves of a bombshell ice- 
cream mould with chocolate ice-cream ; fill with vanilla mingled with 
a glass of kirschwasser, half a JDint of whipt cream, and candied fruits 
cut small and steeped in syrup ; close hermetically, and imbed in 
salted ice for at least two hours ; at serving-time immerse in cold 
water, take off the mould, and serve on a folded napkin. 



494 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 302. 

Monday, October 29. — Bill of fare for eight persons 

Soup : Brunoise, with bread-crusts. 

Stewed terrapin, New York style ; 
Potato cakes. 



Round of beef with nouilles ; 
Boiled cauliflowers with sauce. 



Roast stall-fed pigeons ; 
Escarole salad. 



Pear fritters. 

Brunoise, with Bread-Crusts. — Prepare three quarts of bru- 
noise soup as directed [No. 259] ; cut two french rolls in thin sippets, 
dry them in the oven, put in a soup-tureen, pour the boiling soup over, 
and serve. 

Stewed Terrapin, New York Style. — Scald, cook, trim, and 
cut the terrapin as for Maryland style [No. 272] ; then put the pieces 
in a saucepan with two ounces of butter, two glasses of sherry wine, 
white and red pepper ; put this on the fire, reduce the liquid to one 
half, add a pint of well-reduced espagnole sauce, and boil five minutes 
longer ; finish with a little salt (if required), four ounces of butter in 
small bits, the juice of a lemon, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, 
and mix carefully by gently tossing the saucepan on the side of the 
fire without boiling ; dish up, surround with heart-shaped slices of 
bread fried in butter, and serve with slices of pared lemon separately 
on a plate. 

When squeezing lemon-juice, always use a lemon-presser, lest the 
seeds fall into the preparation ; they give a bad taste, and are very un- 
pleasant if eaten. 

To Chop Parsley Properly. — Pick and wash the parsley, 
sponge the water off, cut small first, and chop very fine on a smooth 
table with a sharp knife ; then put in the corner of a clean kitchen- 
towel, let a little cold water run over it, press all the water out, and put 
on a plate to use when wanted. 

Potato Cakes. — Prepare enough thick mashed potatoes lightly 
buttered and passed through a colander ; add four egg-yolks, mix 
well, and cook three minutes longer ; turn on a dish, put a buttered 
paper over, and let cool ; when wanted, divide, and roll on a floured 
table, and give them the size and shape of codfish-balls ; dip in 
beaten eggs, roll in yellow meal, and fry of a clear yellow color ; drain 
on a cloth, and dish up on a folded napkin. 

Round of Beef with Nouilles,— Prepare and cook an eight- 



COOKERY BOOK. 495 

pound round piece of beef as directed [No. 81] ; strain, free the gravy 
from its fat, and reduce to a demi-glaze with two ladlefuls-of espagnole 
sauce ; have a thick layer of prepared nouilles on a dish, put the beef 
on them, pour part of the sauce over, and serve with the rest in a sauce- 
bowl. 

Nouilles. — Make a paste as follows : Have a pound of sifted flour 
on the table, form a hollow in the centre, put in a teaspoonful of salt 
with water enough to melt it, and about five eggs ; work the whole 
well together ; if too thick, add another egg, and finish working 
the paste by pushing it from you forcibly with the palms of the hands ; 
sprinkle a few drops of water over, knead into a ball, wrap in a cloth, 
and let rest an hour. This paste must be very consistent ; when 
wanted, divide in pieces, and with a rolling-pin roll them down very 
thin ; cut in narrow strips, boil in salted water, drain, and season with 
white sauce, nutmeg, grated parmesan cheese, salt, pepper, and a good 
lump of butter. 

Roast Stall-Fed Pigeons. — Take four or more young stall-fed 
pigeons ; singe, draw, and truss nicely, cover the breast with thin 
bardes of fat pork, and roast twenty-five minutes ; dish up on dry 
toast, put a handful of water-cress at the lower end ; add a little broth 
to the drippings, strain them over the birds, and serve. 

Pear Fritters. — Pare, cut in halves or quarters, according to 
size, and cook some pears in syrup ; drain, put in a vessel with a glass 
of brandy, and let them steep an hour ; dip in a flour batter, and fry 
pretty crisp ; drain on a cloth, range on a folded napkin, besprinkle 
with powdered sugar, and serve. 



No. 303. 

Tuesday, October 30. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Lazagne. 

Stuffed eel, Italian style ; 
Baked potatoes. 

Braised beef with stuffed onions ; 
Stewed beets. 

Fritot of chicken i la Parisienne ; 
Chiccory salad. 

Brioche cake. 

Lazagne Soup. — Lazagnes are a sort of large, flat macaroni, much 
used in Central Italy. Cook six ounces of them in the same way as 
macaroni for soup ; cool, drain, cut them in lozenges, put in a stewpan 



496 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

with three quarts of beef-broth, and boil five minutes longer ; skim, 
pour into a soup-tureen, and serve with a plate of grated parmesan 
cheese. 

Stuffed Eel, Italian Style.— Have a very large eel ; skin, keep 
the head on, trim well, cut off the fins, cut small crosswise incisions on 
each side ; pass the eel for a minute or so over live coals, and it will 
appear as if larded ; then remove the spinal bone and stuff the eel with 
fish force-meat ; mix it with chopped parsley and mushrooms ; then 
sew the eel up to hold the stuffing ; give it the form of a circle ; with a 
string tie the tail along the head and thrust two skewers across to keep 
it in proper position ; put in a flat saucepan with two ounces of butter, 
a bunch of parsley, a chopped onion, a pint of white wine ; season with 
salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and cook an hour, sprinkling occasionally 
with the liquid to glaze to a nice color ; drain the fish on a dish, re- 
move the parsley, and add a pint of espagnole sauce and half a pint of 
chopped mushrooms to the gravy ; boil five minutes longer, skim, and 
finish with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley and lemon-juice ; dish 
up the eel, remove the strings and skewers, pour the sauce in the centre, 
and serve. 

Braised Beef with Stuffed Onions. — Take a rump piece of beef 
weighing about eight pounds ; prepare and cook as directed [No. 8i] ; 
drain the beef, strain, and free the gravy from its fat, and reduce to a 
demi-glaze with half a pint of espagnole sauce ; place the beef on a 
dish, surround with stuffed onions, pour part of the sauce over, and 
serve with more sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Stuffed Onions. — Have a dozen large white onions ; parboil for 
twenty minutes in salted water with an ounce of butter to make it 
whitish ; drain on a cloth, and let them cool ; with a teaspoon or a large 
vegetable-scoop take out the inner part of the onions on the table, and 
add to this two handfuls of fresh bread-crumbs and the same quantity 
of mushrooms ; chop the whole very fine ; put in a saucepan with a 
handful of espagnole sauce, chopped parsley, salt, and pepper ; mix 
well, stuff the onions with this, put them in a buttered sautoir (flat 
saucepan), sprinkle with bread-crumbs, put a small bit of butter on 
each one, and bake of a light-brown color for half an hour in a moder- 
ately hot oven. 

Fritot of Chicken a la Parisienne. — Divide and pare two tender 
chickens as for fricassee ; put in an earthen vessel with salt, pepper, 
lemon-juice, oil, parsley, a bay-leaf, and a sliced onion to marinate an 
hour ; drain on a cloth, dip in milk, roll in flour, and fry for about 
twenty minutes, slowly at first and briskly when nearly done (the legs 



COOKERY BOOK. 497 

take five minutes longer) ; drain, salt, dish up on a folded napkin, 
with a handful of fried parsley, and serve with a shallot sauce in a 
sauce-bowl. 

Gdteau Brioche (Cake). — Prepare two pounds of brioche paste 
as directed [No. 53] ; keep about the eighth part of it to form the head, 
roll the rest in a ball, put in a buttered brioche-mould, make a hole in 
the centre, and wet it ; roll the small kept piece in a pear shape, put 
it, the small end downward, in the hole ; egg the whole surface, cut a 
few incisions round the cake, and bake in a moderately heated oven 
for about forty minutes ; serve cold. 



No. 304. 

Wednesday, October 31. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Pea and Julienne. 

Fillets of sole a la Horly ; 
Potatoes a la Bordelaise. 

Sweetbreads a la financiere ; 
Cauliflower a la Lucquoise. 

Salmi of venison a la Sultana ; 
Lettuce salad with chervil. 



Pain de poires au cedrat. 

Pea and Julienne Soup. — Prepare two quarts of julienne soup 
with beef-broth [No. 255] ; mix with a quart of pea puree [No. 269], 
boil the whole together for five minutes, skim, pour in a soup-tureen, 
and serve. 

Fillets of Sole a la Horly. — Have the fillets of two large soles 
(flounders) ; pare off the skin, trim a little, and season with salt and 
pepper ; break two eggs in a soup-plate with two ounces of melted 
butter, and beat well ; shake the fillets in a cloth with a handful of 
flour, then dip them in the beaten eggs, roll in fresh bread-crumbs, 
smooth them with the blade of a knife, give every one the form of a 
ring by soldering both ends with beaten eggs, then thrust a skewer 
through each one to keep it in proper shape, fry pretty crisp and light 
brown in plenty of clear, very hot fat ; drain on a cloth, dish up on a 
folded napkin, garnish with fried parsley and quartered lemons, and 
serve with tomato sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Potatoes ^ la Bordelaise. — Peel enough small raw potatoes, 
slice thin, wash in cold water to prevent sticking together while cook- 
ing ; fry them soft, drain on a cloth, put in a large omelet-pan with 
two ounces of melted butter and two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion ; 



498 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

put on the fire, stir and fry again for five minutes, drain in a colander ; 
add salt, pepper, and chopped parsley ; mix well, and serve. 

Sweetbreads a la Financiere. — Procure eight white heart sweet- 
breads ; prepare and cook as directed [No. 343] ; pour a garnishing 
a la financiere [No. 359] on a dish, range the sweetbreads over it in a 
circle, keeping the best one for the centre ; surround with heart-shaped 
slices of bread fried in butter, and serve. 

Cauliflower a la Lucquoise. — Parboil two cauliflowers in salted 
water till nearly done ; drain and part them in small flowerets ; break 
three eggs in a large bowl witji six ounces of flour, salt and pepper, two 
tablespoonfuls of sweet oil, and a glass of milk ; beat the whole with an 
egg-whipper ; see that it is very smooth, dip the flowerets in this batter, 
drop one by one in plenty 'of clear, very hot fat, and fry crisp and 
light brown ; drain on a cloth, dish up on a folded napkin, and serve. 

Salmi of Venison a la Sultana. — Have about three pounds of 
venison steaks ; cut them in small pieces, pare and flatten slightly, 
season with salt, pepper, and ground cinnamon, put in a frying-pan 
with four ounces of butter and oil in equal parts, and fry rare and light 
brown on both sides ; drain off the fat, and transfer the meat to a 
saucepan ; put two glasses of port wine and a pint of espagnole sauce 
in the frying-pan, reduce to the desired consistency, add a pint of 
picked and previously steeped sultana raisins, and boil two minutes 
longer ; pour this sauce over the meat, and stir a little ; dish up, sur- 
round with crescent-shaped slices of bread fried in butter, and serve. 

Pain de Poires au Cedrat. — Pare and core enough ripe and 
well-flavored pears to obtain a quart of pulp ; put in a basin with eight 
ounces of sugar, the juice of two lemons, and a glass of maraschino 
liqueur ; set on the fire, stir steadily, and reduce to a puree ; melt sepa- 
rately an ounce and a half of gelatine with a pint and a half of water, 
put this with the pear and rub the whole through a fine hair-sieve ; add 
some finely sliced citron-peel (cedrat), stir steadily on ice until the 
puree begins to congeal ; pour into a cylindrical jelly-mould, and put 
it on the ice ; let set thoroughly, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 499 

No. 305. 

Thursday, November 1. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Puree Crecy with rice. 

Striped bass au cardinal ; 
Hashed potatoes with cream. 

Mutton chops, Proven9ale ; 
Cepes a la Bordelaise. 

Roast turkey, cranberry jelly ; 
Cauliflower salad. 

Bavarois au chocolat. 

Puree Crecy with Rice. — Prepare two quarts of puree a la crecy 
as directed [No. 254] ; add a pint of boiled rice and a quart of 
beef-broth ; boil five minutes longer, skim, pour in a soup-tureen, and 
serve. 

Striped Bass au Cardinal. — Have a well-trimmed striped bass 
weighing about four pounds ; cook in a fish-boiler with a pint of 
water, half a pint of white wine, four ounces of butter, a bunch of 
parsley, a sliced carrot and onion, salt and pepper, for about forty 
minutes ; drain the fish, add a pint of white broth to its gravy, strain, 
and free it from its fat, them make with the gravy a joinville sauce [No. 
283] ; dish up the fish, slice neatly the meat of two claws and the tail 
of a large lobster ; range these in a regular row over the fish, pour the 
sauce carefully over the whole, surround with eight boiled crayfish, 
and serve. 

Mutton Chops ^ la Provengale.— Cut eight mutton chops; 
flatten, pare, and season with salt and pepper ; put in a sautoir with 
four ounces of butter and sweet oil in equal parts ; fry briskly and 
cook rather rare ; then put the chops on a plate, and drain most of the 
fat off. 

Provengale Sauce. — Put a chopped onion and two bruised cloves 
of garlic in the sautoir ; fry a little, add a pint of finely sliced mush- 
rooms, and fry a little longer ; wet with a pint of espagnole and two 
ladlefuls of tomato sauce, and boil five minutes ; put the chops in the 
sauce with a pinch of red pepper, chopped parsley, and lemon-juice ; 
stir them in without boiling ; dish up in a circle alternately with 
heart-shaped slices of bread fried in oil ; pour the sauce in the centre, 
put small paper ruffles on the bones, and serve. 

C^pes ^ la Bordelaise. — They can be purchased already pre- 
pared in first-class groceries ; they only require to be opened, heated by 
placing the can in boiling water, some of the superfluous oil dripped 
away, and turned over in a dish ; then a ladleful of rich gravy mixed 



500 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

with the juice of a lemon and chopped parsley must be poured over 
the cepes. 

Roast Turkey, Cranberry Jelly.— Singe, draw, and truss a 
large, tender, dry-picked turkey ; salt inside and roast about an hour 
and a quarter ; untruss, place on a dish, surround with water-cress ; 
add a little broth to the drippings, strain this over the turkey, and serve 
with cranberry jelly in a glass dish. We omit the stuffing, for the 
meat of a fowl plainly roasted is more juicy and tastes better than 
when filled with bread dressing. 

Cranberry Jelly. — Wash enough red cranberries ; put them in a 
saucepan with water to nearly cover ; boil half an hour and strain the 
liquid without pressure through a soft cloth ; put the residue in a cop- 
per basin -with the same weight of loaf-sugar (pound to a pound) ; set 
to boil, scum when required, and reduce to the consistency of a cur- 
rant jelly ; put in a jelly-glass, cover, and keep in a cool place till 
wanted. Add sugar to the cranberries, stir ten minutes on the fire, turn 
them into a vessel, and they will still make a passable cranberry sauce. 

Bavarois au Chocolat. — Infuse half a vanilla-bean in a pint and 
a half of milk ; melt four ounces of plain chocolate in a saucepan, add 
eight egg-yolks and eight ounces of sugar ; dilute with the milk and 
stir on the fire until the mixture thickens ; add an ounce and a half of 
gelatine previously steeped in cold water and well drained, stir well to 
dissolve it, and pass through a fine strainer ; stir on ice until the jelly 
begins to congeal, mix with a quart of well-whipt cream [No. 77], and 
fill a cylindrical jelly-mould previously imbedded in ice ; cover with an 
inverted plate, put more ice over, let set thoroughly, and serve. 



No. 306. 

Friday, November 2. — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup : Cream of rice a la St. Sever. 

Broiled white-fish, tartar sauce ; 
Quenelles of potatoes. 

Loin of veal a la Montglas ; 
Fried oyster-plant. 

Mongrel goose, sage sauce ; 
Escarole and beet salad. 



French custard au cafe vierge. 

Cream of Rice §. la St. Sever. — Wash a pound of rice ; put it 
in a saucepan with two ounces of butter, a little salt, nutmeg, and three 
quarts of milk ; set on the fire, heat slowly, stirring once in a while ; 



COOKERY BOOK. 501 

cover, and let simmer an hour ; pass through a fine sieve by rubbing 
vigorously with a wooden spoon, return the residue to a saucepan, 
dilute with more milk if required, stir steadily, and heat well without 
boiling ; finish with a little sugar, two ounces of butter, and a cup of 
boiling cream ; pour into a soup-tureen, add small lozenge-shaped 
pieces of bread fried in butter, and serve. 

Broiled White-Fish, Tartar Sauce. — Procure a large white-fish; 
clean and trim neatly ; slit open down the back, season with salt and 
pepper, baste with oil, and broil over a pretty brisk fire ; slide on a 
dish, surround with quartered lemon, and serve with a tartar sauce 
[No. 83] in a sauce-bowl. 

Quenelles of Potatoes. — Wash and roast sixteen large potatoes ; 
break them open and take the pulp out, pound fine, rub through a col- 
ander ; add four ounces of butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg, two whole 
eggs, six egg-yolks, and chopped parsley, and mix well ; beat the six 
egg-whites to a hard froth, mix carefully with the potatoes, turn the 
whole on a floured table, divide and roll in pieces the size and shape 
of a small egg ; flatten a little, drop them in salted boiling water, let 
simmer a few minutes on the side of the fire until firm, drain on a 
sieve, and serve either plain or with a colbert sauce [No. 272]. 

Loin of Veal a la Montglas. — Prepare and cook a loin of veal 
as directed [No. 266] ; put on a dish, surround with a garnishing a la 
montglas, pour the reduced gravy over, and serve. 

Garnishing a la Montglas.— Cut in fine shreds (like vegetables 
for julienne soup) a pint of preserved mushrooms, two ounces of 
cooked beef-tongue, two ounces of truffles, and four ounces of white 
veal or chicken meat also cooked ; season with salt, white and a pinch 
of red pepper, and grated nutmeg ; add two ounces of butter and two 
ladlef uls of the reduced veal gravy ; heat well without boiling, carefully 
tossing in the saucepan, and finish with the juice of half a lemon. 

Roast Mongrel Goose, Sage Sauce. — Dress a tender mongrel 
goose ; put a tablespoonful of chopped sage in sufficient poultry stuf- 
fing [No. 2)Z\ ; put this in the goose, truss nicely, close both ends, and 
roast about an hour and a quarter ; put two chopped shallots in a 
saucepan with an ounce of goose-fat, fry a little ; add half a pint of 
espagnole sauce, a glass of white wine, the skimmed and strained goose 
drippings, salt, and pepper, and boil five minutes ; skim again, and fin- 
ish with a tablespoonful of chopped sage ; dish up the goose, pour a 
little gravy round it, and serve with the sage sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

French Custard au Cafe Vierge (we mean by coffee " vierge " 
an infusion in boiling milk of fresh-roasted coffee, not ground ; this 



502 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

method extracts all the flavor and taste, leaving the custard perfectly 
white). — Put in a copper kitchen-basin, not tinned, but perfectly clean, 
four ounces of mocha coffee-beans ; set the basin on the fire, roast the 
coffee to a dark-brown color, but not black ; add a pint of milk, cover, 
and set it on the side of the fire for half an hour ; strain this infusion^ 
and make two quarts of custard [No. 276] with it ; put this in a large, 
round deep custard-dish, set the dish on a stewpan nearly filled with 
boiling water, put a large cover over it, and a few live coals or hot 
ashes on the cover, and cook by letting the water simmer gently on the 
side of the fire ; when the custard is set take it off, clean the edge of 
the dish, let cool, and serve. This is one of the oldest and best french 
sweet-dishes. 



No. 307. 

Saturday, November 3. — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup : Mutton, Grecian style. . 

Fried smelt, fine-herb sauce ; 
Baked potatoes. 

Aloyau of beef a la Lombarde ; 
Macaroni a la Miianaise. 



Brochettes of robins on toast ; 
Water-cress salad. 



Orange fritters. 

Mutton Soup, Grecian Style. — Bone a .small shoulder of mut- 
ton, and cook it in mutton-broth [No. 220] ; pare off the fat and 
sinews, and cut the lean in small squares ; cut also in small squares 
some vegetables as for brunoise soup, and cook them with three pints 
of mutton-broth ; cook a pint of split peas with a small piece of ham 
and mutton-broth, rub through a sieve, and make three pints of puree ; 
mix the whole together — mutton, vegetables, and puree ; boil, scum, 
season to taste, pour in a tureen, and serve. 

Fried Smelt, Fine-Herb Sauce. — Take three pounds of smelt ; 
pare off the fins, clean nicely, wipe dry, put on eight short skewers, 
sprinkle with flour, dip in beaten eggs, roll in fine crumbs, and fry, the 
half at a time, in plenty of clear, very hot fat ; drain on a cloth, salt, 
dish up on a folded napkin, and serve with a fine-herb sauce in a sauce- 
bowl. 

Fine-Herb Sauce. — Chop two shallots, put in a saucepan with a 
little butter, white pepper, grated nutmeg, and a glass of white wine ; 
boil down to one half, add half a pint of veloute sauce, and boil a 



COOKERY BOOK. 503 

minute ; thicken with a liaison of three egg-yolks, stir without boiling, 
then put in carefully, stirring all the while, four ounces of butter in 
small bits, chopped parsley, and lemon-juice. 

Aloyau of Beef a la Lombarde. — Procure a two-joint, pretty 
thick, and middle-cut piece of loin of beef ; saw off the spine, pare off 
the superfluous fat, truss firmly, and cook as directed [No. 140] ; drain, 
skim the fat, strain the gravy, and reduce it to a demi-glaze sauce ; 
pare and dish up the beef, surround with stuffed tomatoes [No. 155], 
pout the gravy over, and serve. 

Macaroni a la Milanaise. — Boil a pound of macaroni for twenty 
minutes in slightly salted water, and drain without cooling ; put it in a 
saucepan with a pint of bechamel sauce, pepper, grated nutmeg, four 
ounces of butter in small bits, some previously-cooked Italian mush- 
rooms, four ounces of red beef-tongue, two truffles (if any on hand) cut 
in fine shreds, and half a pound of grated parmesan cheese ; mix well 
by tossing in the saucepan ; turn into a deep dish, pour some well- 
reduced beef gravy over, and serve. 

Brochettes of Robins on Toast. — Pick two dozen robins ; 
void, skin the head , pare off the eyes, wings, and legs ; put thin slices 
of fat bacon on the breast, and truss them on eight small skewers ; 
roast briskly for about twelve minutes, range on eight pieces of dry 
toast, add a little broth to the drippings, strain them over the birds, 
and serve. 

Orange Fritters. — Peel the oranges, part in quarters, remove the 
seeds, and boil for five minutes in thick syrup ; drain well on a sieve, 
immerse in a light flour batter, and fry them quickly in plenty of clear, 
very hot fat to a light-brown color ; drain on a cloth, pare, sprinkle 
with powdered sugar, and serve on a folded napkin. 



No. 308. 

Sunday, November 4. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Printanier, a la Parmesane. 

Hure of salmon a la Jean-Bart ; 
Potatoes a la duchesse. 



Fricassee of chicken a la chevali^re ; 
Lettuce braised au veloute. 



Roast loin of beef, English style ; 
Celery salad. 

Charlotte glacee a la Florentine. 

Printanier, a la Parmesane. — Prepare three quarts of printanier 
soup with consomme [No. 133] ; pour into a soup-tureen, and serve 



504 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

with crusts k la parmesane prepared thus : Put in a kitchen-basin four 
egg-yolks, stir them smooth, beat the four whites to a hard froth, and 
mix them with the yolks ; add two ounces of flour, three ounces of 
grated parmesan cheese, nutmeg, a little sugar, and mix carefully ; lay 
a buttered paper in a thin baking-pan, spread the preparation over the 
paper about a third of an inch thick, and cook slowly in a moderate 
oven ; when done, turn it over on the table, remove the paper, cut in 
square or lozenge-shaped pieces, and serve separately on a plate. 

Hure of Salmon a la Jean-Bart.— (In french we call a hfire 
of salmon the head, shoulders, and part of the body.) Choose the 
salmon as fresh as possible ; clean well, principally the blood-vessel 
adhering to the spine, and stuff inside with a little fish force-meat [No. 
1 2] ; with a string and dressing-needle tie the head to the body, and 
tie also the other end to keep the stuffing inside ; put in a fish-boiler 
with two ounces of butter, a garnished bunch of parsley, two sliced 
onions, salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; moisten with a pint each of white 
wine, water, and white broth ; put a sheet of paper over the fish, and 
a cover over the whole ; set on the fire, start slowly, and let simmer 
an hour ; drain the fish, leave the paper on, and keep warm ; strain, 
and skim the gravy, and make a genevoise sauce [No. 275] with it ; 
meanwhile prepare the following garnishing : a dozen quenelles of fish 
force-meat, a dozen large oysters, some mussels, and scollops ; cook 
them all, and drain them ; dress the fish in a large oval dish, put the 
garnishing round it, pour some sauce over all, and serve with the rest 
in a sauce-bowl. 

Fricassee of Chicken ^ la Chevaliere.— Have two plump, 
fat chickens ; singe, draw, and with the point of a knife slit open the 
skin of the breasts, and take up the four large and the four minion 
fillets (under and slightly adhering to the large ones) ; lard the large 
fillets with fine shreds of pork, and put them in a sautoir with a thin 
layer of fresh lard ; pare, and decorate the minion fillets by cut- 
ting slight incisions and inserting thin slices of truffles ; put in 
a small sautoir with melted butter, cut the rest of the chicken, 
and cook as for an ordinary fricassee ; when cooked, drain, and pare 
the legs, dip them in the sauce, cool, bread in beaten eggs and white 
crumbs, and fry them in clarified butter ; the large fillets should be 
cooked with a ladleful of chicken-broth, and nicely glazed in the oven ; 
the minion fillets should simmer only a few minutes in the butter ; 
when serving, set the inferior parts of the chicken in the centre of the 
dish, garnish with mushrooms, add the legs with a few more mushrooms 
in the centre, then the large fillets, the small ends pointing upward, 



COOKERY BOOK. 505 

and then the minion fillets, the small ends also pointing up, between 
the large ones ; with a knife cut them even at the top ; set a large 
truffle thereon, range cooked cock's-combs round the base, pour the 
rest of the sauce round the dish, and serve. 

Roast Loin of Beef, English Style. — Prepare and cook two 
or three centre-joints of loin of beef as directed [No. 268] ; serve with 
a Yorkshire pudding, either cooked in a greased pan under the drip- 
pings if the beef is roasted on the spit, or separately with some drip- 
ping of the beef if roasted in the oven. 

Yorkshire Pudding. — Put in a vessel half a pound of flour, three 
beaten eggs, salt, half a pint of milk, and two ounces of melted beef- 
fat ; knead to a thick, smooth batter, and cook as directed above. 

Charlotte Glacee a la Florentine. — Line a plain charlotte- 
mould with lady-fingers ; fill with ice-cream a la florentine [No. 119] ; 
cover hermetically, imbed in salted ice till serving-time, and serve on a 
folded napkin. 

No. S09. 

Monday, November 5. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Nouille and tomato. 

Broiled smelt ; 
Lyonnaise potatoes. 

Shoulders of lamb, stuffed tomatoes ; 
Stewed oyster-plant. 

Prairie hens, English style ; 
Doucette salad. 



Apple marmalade a la gelee. 

Nouille and Tomato Soup. — Make half a pound of nouille 
paste [No. 302] ; cook in salted water, and cut in regular short pieces; 
put in a saucepan three pints of beef-broth, three pints of tomato sauce, 
and enough nouilles ; boil a few minutes longer, skim, and serve with 
grated parmesan cheese separately on a plate. 

Broiled Smelt. — Select three pounds of very large smelt ; draw, 
cut the fins, and wipe dry with a soft towel ; season with salt and pep- 
per, baste with sweet oil, put in a double gridiron, and broil over a 
brisk fire ; range and dish up on a mellow maitre d' hotel sauce [No. 
276], garnish with quartered lemons, and serve. 

Shoulders of Lamb, Stuffed Tomatoes. — Bone two shoulders 
of lamb, and cook as directed [No. 286] ; strain and free the gravy 
from its fat, and reduce to a demi-glaze with two ladlefuls of espagnole 
sauce ; pare and dish up the shoulders, surround with stuffed tomatoes, 
pour the gravy over, and serve. 



5o6 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Stuffed Tomatoes. — Have a dozen large tomatoes all of one size; 
cut round the stem with the point of a knife, remove the seeds and 
water, and drain on a sieve ; make a stuffing as follows : Put in a 
saucepan two ounces of butter, two tablespoonfuls of sweet oil, two 
chopped onions, and a pint of chopped mushrooms ; stir, and fry about 
ten minutes to evaporate the moisture ; season with salt, white and a 
pinch of red pepper, and nutmeg ; add a ladleful each of espagnole 
and tomato sauce, boil a little ; then put in three handfuls of fresh 
bread-crumbs, four egg-yolks, and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley ; 
mix well, stir, and cook three minutes longer ; turn on a dish, and let 
cool ; fill the tomatoes with this preparation, put them on a buttered 
baking-pan, sprinkle with bread-crumbs, put a small bit of butter on 
each one, and bake to a nice color for about twenty minutes. 

Stewed Oyster-Plant. — Scrape and cook two bunches of stewed 
oyster-plant in salted and acidulated water whitened with an ounce of 
flour ; drain on a cloth, cut in short pieces ; put in a saucepan with 
butter sauce, salt, pepper, and chopped parsley ; mix well, turn into a 
deep dish, and serve. 

Prairie Hens, English Style. — Procure three large tender 
prairie hens ; pick, singe, draw, truss, cover the breast with thin 
bardes of fat pork, and roast half an hour ; add a little broth to the 
drippings, skim the fat, put in a saucepan with three tablespoonfuls 
each of stirred currant jelly and espagnole sauce, boil five minutes, and 
press through a napkin ; dish up the birds on dry toast, pour a little 
gravy round them, and serve with the above sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Apple Marmalade and Jelly. — Pare, core, cut in pieces, and 
cook enough apples to fill a large compot-dish, adding a little inner 
cinnamon-bark and enough water for a pint of apple-juice ; rub the 
apple through a colander, sweeten, reduce to the consistency of a thick 
marmalade, and let cool ; boil the apple-juice with a pound of loaf- 
sugar, reduce to the stiffness of currant jelly, and turn into a large flat 
plate to cool ; dish up the marmalade in dome form, invert the jelly 
upon it so as to mask it entirely, and serve. This may be ornamented 
with quince or currant jelly instead of apple jelly. 



COOKERY BOOK. 

No. 310. 

Tuesday, November 6. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Chicken-broth a la Palestine. 

Striped bass, Hollandaise ; 
Boiled potatoes. 

Green goose a 1' estouffade ; 
Cauliflowers a 1' Allemande. 

Lamb chops a la Bretonne ; 
Lettuce and chervil salad. 



507 



Custard fritters a la vanille. 

Chicken-Broth a la Palestine. — Chicken-broth for soups, etc. : 
Put in a stock-pot two pounds of lean beef, two pounds of lean veal, 
a large tender fowl, two tablespoonfuls of salt, and two gallons of cold 
water ; set on the fire, start slowly, when boiling scum well ; add two 
carrots, an onion with three cloves in it, two stalks of celery, two leeks 
and parsley-roots tied together ; let boil slowly for five hours, adding 
at times a little water to replace the evaporation ; when the fowl is 
done, take it off and keep for further use ; then skim the fat and strain 
the broth through a wet napkin into a saucepan, and keep warm. 

Garnishing. — Have a dozen roots of Jerusalem artichokes ; boil a 
few minutes in water, drain, peel, cut them in slices, and let simmer a 
little longer in a saucepan, with two tablespoonfuls of beef-extract and 
a ladleful of chicken-broth ; pour three quarts of boiling broth into a 
soup-tureen, add the artichokes and their gravy, also a pint of rice pre- 
viously cooked in broth, and serve. 

Striped Bass £L la Hollandaise. — Take a five-pound striped 
bass ; wash and trim nicely, put in a fish-kettle with salted and acidu- 
lated water to an inch over ; cover with a sheet of paper, set to boil, 
and then let simmer half an hour ; drain, slide on a folded napkin, 
garnish with parsley, and serve with a hollandaise sauce [No. 98] in a 
sauce-bowl. 

Green Goose a 1' Estouffade. — Draw and stuff a young goose as 
follows : Chop fine two large onions, parboil, drain, cool, and press 
the water out ; put in a kitchen basin with salt, pepper, nutmeg, sage, 
and thyme-leaves pulverized fine, four ounces of bread soaked in cold 
water and pressed, four ounces of sausage-meat, two ounces of butter, 
two eggs, and chopped parsley ; mix the whole together, fill the goose, 
tie both ends to keep in the dressing ; truss neatly ; place it with the 
breast up in an oval stewpan, with four ounces of butter, a bunch of 
parsley with aromatics, an onion with three cloves in it, two stalks of 
celery, two glasses of sherry wine, and a pint of broth ; set on the fire, 



5o8 ■ FRANCO-AMERICAN 

let boil, cover, then put in the oven; let the whole simmer gently for an 
hour and a half, taking care to turn the goose occasionally ; drain the 
goose, strain and free the gravy from its fat, add half a pint of espag- 
nole sauce, and reduce to an appropriate consistency ; untruss and 
dish up the goose, and garnish with a border of glazed turnips [No. 
301] ; pour the sauce over and serve. 

By stewing a goose the meat is made more tender, is less oily, has a 
richer flavor, and is more easily digested. 

Cauliflowers a 1' Allemande. — Boil two cauliflowers in the ordi- 
nary way ; part them in flowerets, season with salt and pepper, and 
put them in a vegetable-dish ; put half a pound of butter in a frying- 
pan, heat it well without browning, scum the surface, then drop in 
two handfuls of fresh white bread-crumbs ; fry a minute, and when 
the foam comes down pour all over the cauliflowers. 

Lamb Chops a la Bretonne. — Pare eight large lamb chops ; 
flatten, season with salt and pepper, and broil nicely ; dish up in a 
circle alternately with chop-shaped slices of bread fried in butter ; pour 
a bretonne sauce in the centre, add paper ruffles to the bones, and 
serve. 

Bretonne Sauce. — Chop two onions, put them in a saucepan 
with two ounces of butter, and fry light brown ; add an ounce of flour, 
stir and dilute with a pint of broth, season with salt and pepper, and 
boil ten minutes ; skim the fat, and rub the sauce through a fine 
strainer, and finish with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. 

Custard Fritters a la Vanille. — Prepare and proceed exactly as 
directed [No. 341], but substitute a vanilla infusion for the orange- 
flower water. 



No. 311. 

Wednesday, November 7. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Cream of barley a la Viennoise. 

Baked scollops in shells ; 
Hot-slaw a la Bohemienne. 

Chickens braised a la Vigo ; 
Sweet potatoes sautees. 

Roast black ducks ; 
Celery salad. 

Rhine-wine jelly. 

Cream of Barley a la Viennoise. — Take a pint of barley, wash 
well ; put in a stewpan with two quarts of light veal or chicken broth, 
a little salt, grated nutmeg, a teaspoonful of sugar, and two ounces of 



COOKERY BOOK. 509 

butter ; set to boil, and stir once in a while with a wooden spoon, so 
that the barley will not stick to the bottom ; boil slowly till it is cooked 
to a pulp (about three hours) ; dilute with more broth if required ; 
rub- the whole forcibly through a fine hair-sieve, and put the residue in 
a very clean stewpan ; meanwhile with an ounce and a half each of 
flour and butter, a quart of milk, and a pint of cream make a light be- 
chamel sauce ; mix with the barley, stir steadily while heating, but do 
not let boil ; add three ounces of table-butter, and serve with white of 
bread cut in small thin lozenges and fried in clarified butter. 

Baked Scollops in Shells. — Put two quarts of scollops in a 
saucepan with three ounces of melted butter ; season with salt, white 
and a pinch of red pepper, and grated nutmeg ; cook on a brisk fire 
for five minutes ; put a colander over a saucepan, and drain the scol- 
lops ; then with a pint of veal-broth, little milk, the liquor of the scol- 
lops, two ounces of butter, and an ounce and a half of flour make a 
pint and a half of white sauce ; thicken with four egg-yolks, add the 
scollops and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and mix well ; have 
eight or more tin or silvered shells (coquilles) already buttered and 
sprinkled with bread-crumbs ; fill them with the prepared scollops, 
sprinkle more bread-crumbs over, and put a bit of butter on each one ; 
put in a baking-pan, and bake a light-brown color in a hot oven for 
about ten minutes ; press the juice of a lemon over the fish, range on a 
folded napkin, and serve. 

Hot-Slaw a la Bohemienne. — This is a relish, and tastes well 
with scollops : Cut a cabbage in fine shreds ; put in a saucepan with 
salt, pepper, two ounces of butter, a glass of white-wine vinegar, and 
two glasses of water ; set on a brisk fire, and boil quickly for twenty 
minutes ; drain in a strainer, dress up on a flat dish, and send to table. 

Chickens Braised a la Vigo. — Draw, singe, and truss two plump 
young chickens ; put them in a hermetically-closing oval copper stew- 
pan with two tablespoonfuls of sweet oil and two ounces of butter ; fry 
them a light-brown color, add two glasses of Xeres (sherry) wine, two 
ladlefuls of beef-broth, a bunch of parsley with aromatics, sliced car- 
rots, and onions ; boil, close the cover tightly, and cook for about forty 
minutes ; drain the chickens, strain, and free the gravy from its fat, 
add a ladleful of espagnole and two ladlefuls of tomato sauce, and re- 
duce to a proper consistency ; dish up the chickens ; garnish with per- 
fectly ripe tomatoes, scalded, well seasoned, and baked whole ; pour 
the sauce over, and serve. 

Sweet Potatoes Sautees. — Pare some small, cold boiled pota- 
toes ; cut in thin slices, put in a large frying-pan with four ounces of 



5[o FRANCO-AMERICAN 

melted butter and a little salt ; toss on a brisk fire until light brown, 
drain off the butter, besprinkle with chopped parsley, and serve. 

Roast Black Ducks. — Singe, draw, and truss nicely three black 
ducks, and roast half an hour ; salt, dish up with a little rich gravy, 
and serve with currant jelly on a plate. 

Rhine- Wine Jelly. — Clarify an ounce and a half of gelatine with 
a quart of water and twelve ounces of sugar as directed [No. 2] ; cool 
partially, and mix with a pint of rhine wine ; pour into a jelly-mould 
previously imbedded in ice ; let set thoroughly, and serve. 



Noo 312. 

Thursday, November 8. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Calf s-foot, English style. 

Baked flounder i la Parisienne ; 
Broiled potatoes. 

Leg of mutton a la Bourguignotte ; 
Cauliflowers a 1' Espagnole. 

Broiled quail ; 
Chiccory salad. 

Beignets (fritters) a 1' alliance. 

Calf S-Foot, English Style. — Take four calves' feet ; bone, soak, 
and wash well ; put them in a stock-pot with a knuckle of veal, two 
pounds of soup-beef, a tablespoonful of salt, and a gallon and a half of 
water ; set on the fire, start slowly, scum well ; add a well-garnished 
bunch of parsley, two leeks, and two stalks of celery tied together, and 
a sliced carrot and onion ; let boil, and in about two hours the feet will 
be done ; take them out, add some water to replace the evaporation, 
and let the rest boil two hours longer ; immerse the feet in cold water, 
remove all the bones, lay the feet flat between two tin sheets, press 
lightly, and let cool ; then cut them in inch-lengths half an inch 
wide, and put in a stewpan till wanted ; strain and free the broth from 
its fat, and thicken five pints of it with a brown roux made with two 
ounces of butter and three ounces of flour ; add half a pint of sherry 
and two glasses of port wine, two tablespoonfuls of " Harvey's sauce," a 
pinch of red pepper, and more broth if required ; boil slowly for half 
an hour, skim the fat, and press through a napkin over the prepared 
calves' feet ; mix gently, boil a minute, and send to table with sliced 
lemon on a plate. 

Baked Flounder ^ la Parisienne. — Take a large flounder of 
about four pounds ; pare off the head and fins short, clean well, and 



COOKERY BOOK. 511 

wipe dry ; make an incision from head to tail on the back, and by- 
sliding a strong knife on each side and cutting crosswise near the tail 
take out the spine ; fill the inside with fish force-meat [No. 12] ; turn 
the white part uppermost on a buttered baking-dish, with salt, pepper, 
half a pint of white wine and oyster liquor, small bits of butter on tcp, 
and a buttered paper over ; set to boil and cook in the oven for forty 
minutes, basting occasionally with the liquid ; strain the liquid and 
make a normande sauce [No. 313] with it ; mask the fish with part 
of the sauce, sprinkle with fresh crumbs, and bake light brown in a 
brisk oven ; slide carefully on a large dish, garnish with cooked oys- 
ters, mussels, and mushrooms ; pour the rest of the sauce over the 
garnishing, and serve. 

Leg of Mutton a la Bourguignotte. — Prepare and cook a leg 
of mutton as directed [No. 30] ; untruss, dish up, pour a bourguig- 
notte sauce round it, add a paper ruffle to the bone, and serve. 

Bourguignotte Sauce. — Put in a small saucepan two tablespoon- 
fuls of chopped onion with a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a blade of 
mace, two cloves, a few sprays of parsley tied together, and a pint 
of burgundy wine ; boil down to one half, add a pint of espagnole 
sauce or the thickened mutton gravy ; boil, skim, remove the bunch 
of parsley, etc., and reduce to the desired consistency. 

Broiled Quail. — Take eight quail ; pick, singe, draw, slit down 
the back, crack the main bones, flatten slightly, season with salt and 
pepper, baste with sweet oil, and broil over a bright charcoal fire ; 
dish up on eight small pieces of dry toast, surround with water- 
cress and quartered lemon, pour a melted maitre d' hotel sauce over, 
and serve. 

Beignets (Fritters) a V Alliance. — Peel and core out four large 
apples ; cut crosswise in five slices each, put to steep for half an hour 
in an earthen basin with a glass of brandy and a little fine sugar ; 
drain and spread them on a clean cloth, put on the centre of each 
piece a teaspoonful of thick peach marmalade ; then put the half 
of a canned peach over the marmalade ; join them together and dip 
in a light flour batter and fry pretty crisp and light brown ; drain, 
put on a flat pan, sprinkle with powdered sugar, glaze in a very hot 
oven, and serve on a folded napkin. 



5 1 2 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 313. 

Friday, November 9. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Sago, a la Tessinoise. 

Fillets of sole a la Normande ; 
Potato croquettes. 

Veal cutlets, sauce piquante ; 
Fried oyster-plant. 

Broiled widgeon ducks ; 
Celery in glass. 

Fondues a la Fribourg. 

Sago, ^ la Tessinoise. — Roast two partridges ; take the fillets, 

cut in thin collops, season with salt and pepper, keep hot on a covered 
plate, and put the bones and p^arings in the broth ; prepare three quarts 
of game-broth as directed [No. 329], strain through a wet napkin, boil, 
stir, let drop like rain six ounces of sago, and boil half an hour ; scald, 
peel, and cook about two dozen italian chestnuts in white broth, and 
drain them on a sieve ; skim the soup, add a cup of cream, mix well, 
pour into a soup-tureen with the colloped partridge and chestnuts, and 
serve with grated parmesan cheese separately on a plate. 

Fillets of Sole a la Normande. — Take the fillets of two large 
flounders ; pare off the skin, fold in two, flatten slightly, trim a little, 
season with salt and pepper ; put in a buttered sautoir (flat saucepan) 
with a gill of white wine, a chopped onion, and small bits of butter ; 
boil, baste with the gravy, and cook ten minutes ; then make a sauce 
as follows : 

Normande Sauce. — Put two ounces of butter and two ounces of 
flour in a saucepan ; stir and cook a little without allowing to brown ; 
dilute with the fish gravy, oyster liquor, and white broth, making a pint 
and a half of sauce, and boil ten minutes ; skim, thicken with a liaison 
of four egg-yolks, and stir on the fire without boiling ; add four ounces 
of butter in small bits and lemon-juice, mix well, and press through a 
napkin ; dish up the fillets in a row, one overlapping the other ; put a 
head of mushroom upon each one; surround with a few cooked oysters, 
mussels, and scollops ; pour the sauce over all, garnish with heart- 
shaped crusts of french bread fried in butter, and serve. 

Veal Cutlets, Sauce Piquante. — Pare and flatten eight small 
veal cutlets off the loin ; season with salt and pepper, put in a sautoir 
with four ounces of butter, and cook light brown on both sides ; put the 
cutlets on a plate and drain most of the butter off ; put a chopped onion 
in the sautoir, fry light brown, sprinkle two ounces of flour over, and 
fry a little longer ; dilute with a pint and a half of broth and half a 



COOKERY BOOK. 513 

gill of white-wine vinegar, boil five minutes, add the chops, and boil 
ten minutes longer ; dish up in a circle, skim the sauce ; add finely 
chopped gherkins, capers, and parsley ; mix well, pour into the centre, 
make a border of sliced gherkin on the edge of the dish, and serve. 

Fried Oyster-Plant. — Scrape and cook two bunches of large 
oyster-plant as directed [No. 309] ; drain on a cloth, cut them all the 
same length, dip in a flour batter, and fry pretty crisp in very hot fat ; 
drain, salt, dish up on a folded napkin, and serve. 

Broiled Widgeon Ducks. — Choose four fat widgeon ; prepare, 
cook, and serve as directed [No. 286]. 

Fondues a .la Fribourg. — Put eight egg-yolks in a basin with a 
little water, Avhite pepper, and grated nutmeg ; with an egg-beater mix 
in gradually six ounces of melted butter, and stir on the fire until the 
preparation thickens, without curding the eggs ; then add gradually 
again twelve ounces of freshly grated gruyere cheese, mixing until very 
smooth ; take off the fire, mix with eight egg-whites beaten to a froth, 
and fill eight or more medium-sized and buttered square white- 
paper cases ; sprinkle with more grated cheese, range on a baking- 
sheet, and cook for fifteen minutes in a moderately heated oven ; range 
on a folded napkin, and serve immediately. 



No. 314. 

Saturday, November 10. — Bill of fare for eight persons, : 

Soup a la Nivernaise. 

Salmon-trout, crayfish sauce ; 
Potatoes, English style. 

Breast of veal, stuffed ; 
Chiccory with gravy. 

Venison chops, sauce poivrade ; 
Beet and doucette salad. 

French custard au caramel. 

Soup it la Nivernaise. — With a vegetable-scoop, scoop out 
enough carrots and turnips in pieces the size of a very small olive ; put 
them in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, and fry five minutes ; 
drain the butter, add three quarts of clear beef-broth, let boil gently on 
the side of the fire till the vegetables are thoroughly done, then skim 
the butter off ; a few minutes before serving throw into the soup while 
boiling some very small brussels sprouts previously cooked, and small 
quenelles of chicken force-meat [No. 126] ; boil an instant, skim again, 
and serve. 



514 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Salmon-Trout, Crayfish Sauce. — Boil the trout on a grate in a 
fish-boiler with salted water acidulated with a gill of vinegar, and sea- 
soned with a well-garnished bunch of parsley and a handful of pepper- 
corns ; cook two dozen crayfish, pick the shells from the tails, trim the 
tails, and keep till wanted ; make a well-buttered white sauce, give a 
pale-reddish tint with butter mingled Avith pounded crayfish-shells, 
warmed and pressed out ; dish up the fish on a folded napkin, and 
garnish with parsley ; mingle the crayfish tails with the sauce, add the 
juice of a lemon, and serve in a large bowl along with the fish. 

Stuffed Breast of Veal. — Have a fat breast of white veal ; pare 
and remove the rib-bones, cut a deep incision in the large end, season 
with salt and pepper ; fill with a stuffing made of half a pound of veal 
chopped fine, half a pound of fresh white bread soaked in cold water 
and well pressed, four ounces of butter, four egg-yolks, two whole eggs, 
salt, pepper, nutmeg, and chopped onion and parsley ; sew up the 
opening ; put sliced vegetables in a deep baking-pan, set the veal upon 
them (the white side uppermost) with a quart of veal-broth, two glasses 
of white wine, and a buttered paper over ; put on the fire, start slowly, 
cook gently for two hours in a moderately hot oven ; sprinkle the sur- 
face occasionally with the gravy, and glaze to a light-brown color ; 
drain, pare neatly, strain, and free the gravy from its fat, add a pint 
of espagnole sauce, and reduce to the desired consistency ; dish up 
the veal, pour part of the sauce round it, and serve. Cook and pre- 
pare the chiccory as directed [No. 25 2 J ; turn into a vegetable-dish, 
pour a little of the veal gravy over, garnish with heart-shaped slices of 
bread fried in butter, and serve. 

Venison Chops, Sauce Poivrade. — Procure eight medium- 
sized venison chops ; pare, and trim neatly, flatten a little, and season 
with salt and pepper ; heat four ounces of butter and oil in a sautoir, 
and fry the chops on both sides and rather rare ; dish up in a circle 
alternately with chop-shaped slices of bread fried in butter ; drain the 
fat, and put a pint of poivrade sauce in the sautoir, stir, and boil a 
minute, pour into the centre of the dish, add small paper ruffles to the 
bones, and serve. 

Sauce Poivrade. — Cut a carrot, an onion, and two ounces of salt 
pork in small squares ; put them in a saucepan with a bay-leaf, a sprig 
of thyme, pepper-corns, sprays of parsley, and two ounces of butter, 
and stir until light brown ; drain off the butter, put in a gill of vine- 
gar, reduce to one half, add a pint of espagnole sauce (or any thickened 
brown gravy), and boil ten minutes ; skim, and press through a napkin. 
French Custard au Caramel. — Prepare a vanilla custard as 



COOKERY BOOK. 515 

directed [No. 276], but add two more eggs to the quart of milk, and 
cook some sugar to a brown color — not burning it ; pour this sugar in 
a plain charlotte-mould, and spread it all over the inside so as to obtain 
a thin brown coating ; then fill the mould with the custard, and set it 
in a larger pan with boiling water ; cover up, steam slowly until well set 
(about an hour) ; ten minutes before serving, invert the mould on a 
dish, and keep it on till the moment of serving ; serve either hot or 
cold. (The melted caramel-sugar makes the sauce.) 



No. 315. 

Sunday, November 11. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : MuUagatawny. 

Fillets of sole a la marechale ; 
Long Branch potatoes. 

Mutton chops a la Maintenon ; 
Brussels sprouts au Parmesan. 

Roast goose stuffed with chestnuts ; 
Celery salad. 

Meringues glacees a la vanille. 

MuUagatawny Soup. — Take a well-fed but not too fat chicken ; 
cut it in pieces a little smaller than for fricassee ; put in a stewpan with 
four ounces of butter, two large onions coarsely cut, and four ounces 
of lean, raw ham sliced fine ; fry the whole till the chicken is lightly 
browned, add two tablespoonfuls each of flour and of curry powder, 
moisten with three quarts of good white broth, stir, and boil slowly ; 
skim the fat, add a ladleful of sour-apple sauce, the rind of a lemon, 
a well-garnished bunch of parsley, and two leeks and celery-stalks tied 
together ; cover up, boil gently till the chicken is done, then with a 
skimmer and a fork transfer the pieces of chicken to another stewpan, 
strain the liquid over, and press down the seasoning to extract all the 
flavor ; boil three minutes longer, taste the seasoning, and serve with 
a dish of plain boiled rice, to be passed with the soup. 

Fillets of Sole ^ la Marechale. — Take the fillets of two large 
flounders ; cut each in two, trim neatly ; season with salt, pepper, and 
lemon- juice, and place them a little apart on a large flat tin pan ; then 
cover each piece with a thin coating of well-reduced bechamel sauce, 
and put them for half an hour or more in a very cool place ; roll each 
fillet in fine bread-crumbs, then in beaten eggs, and again in bread- 
crumbs ; smooth and shape them with the blade of a knife, and fry 
light brown on both sides in clarified butter ; drain on a cloth, dish up 



5i6 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

in a circle on a folded napkin, put fried parsley in the centre, and 
serve with a well-buttered bechamel sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Long Branch Potatoes. — Peel enough potatoes, cut in long 
shreds with a patent potato-cutter ; fry in plenty of very hot lard, dry 
well, salt, and serve on a folded napkin. 

Mutton Chops ^ la Maintenon. — Take eight or more fat-cov- 
ered mutton chops ; pare well; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and 
put them in a flat saucepan with four ounces of hot clarified butter ; cook 
rare, drain the chops in a dish, and the butter off ; put a glass of sherry 
wine and a pint of espagnole sauce in the saucepan, reduce well, pour 
this sauce over the chops, and let cool ; meanwhile have as many 
sheets of large thick note-paper as there are chops ; cut in heart-shape 
and oil them, spread them on the table, put two very thin slices of 
cooked ham or beef-tongue on each paper, one on each side ; then put 
the chop with its sauce on the right side, fold the paper over, and with 
the forefinger and thumb of the right hand twjst the edges of the 
paper in very close tight folds ; repeat for every chop ; fifteen minutes 
before serving put the whole on a large flat baking-pan, and bake a 
light-brown color in a moderately heated oven ; dish up in a circle, 
and send to table with a bowl of Italian sauce. 

Brussels Sprouts au Parmesan. — Prepare and cook the sprouts 
as directed [No. 289] ; range them boiling hot- in a deep dish, with 
alternate layers of grated parmesan cheese, salt, pepper, and melted 
butter, and serve very hot. 

Stuffed Goose with Chestnuts. — Singe and draw a. fat, tender 
goose ; slit, blanch, and peel some three dozen Italian chestnuts (or 
more, if small) ; put the nuts in a sautoir with two ounces of butter, 
salt, and pepper ; stir and fry a little ; mix with poultry stuffing [No. 
33], and fill the goose ; close both ends, truss, and roast for an hour 
and a quarter, with a sprig of sage in the drippings ; untruss, dish up, 
add a little broth to the drippings, skim the fat, strain the gravy over 
the goose, and serve with an apple sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Meringues Glacees ^ la Vanille. — Have sixteen meringue- 
shells [No. 3] ; fill them moderately with vanilla ice-cream ; join them 
together, smooth the edges, range on a folded napkin, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 517 

No. 316. 

Monday, November 12. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Julienne, with poached eggs. 

Salmon steaks a la marini^re ; 
Omelet of potatoes. 

Curry of chicken, Indian style ; 
Fried celery, tomato sauce. 

Roast leg of lamb ; 
Doucette and beet salad. 



Compote of pears with Maraschino. 

Julienne, with Poached Eggs. — Prepare three quarts of juli- 
enne soup as directed [No. 255] ; boil some slightly acidulated water 
in a sautoir ; let drop into it, one by one, eight fresh eggs, and let them 
stand until the white is partly set ; take them up with a small skimmer, 
put in tepid water, and round off the ragged edges ; pour the julienne 
in a soup-tureen, add the eggs, and serve. 

Salmon Steaks a la Mariniere. — Take four middle-cut salmon 
steaks ; season with salt and pepper, baste with sweet oil, and broil 
light brown on both sides and well ; dish up in a row, one steak over- 
lapping the other ; surround with small glazed onions, oysters, and 
mussels ; pour a genevoise sauce [No. 275] over, and serve. 

Omelet of Potatoes. — Peel and boil the potatoes in the ordinary 
way ; drain them well ; season with salt, white pepper, and grated nut- 
meg ; add a good piece of butter, mash well, add four egg-yolks, and 
rub the whole through a large colander (it should be rather thick) ; 
melt two ounces of butter in a large frying-pan, put in the potatoes, set 
on the fire, give the whole the shape of a huge omelet, fry of a light- 
brown color, and serve. 

Curry of Chicken, Indian Style. — Have two fat and tender 
chickens ; cut them in pieces as for fricassee ; melt four ounces of 
butter in a saucepan, add the chickens with two tablespoonfuls of 
chopped onion and a few slices of raw ham ; stir, and fry till the 
chicken is lightly browned ; add a tablespoonful of flour and two table- 
spoonfuls of curry powder or paste ; mix well, dilute with enough light 
veal or chicken broth to cover the meat ; season with a little salt, the 
rind of a lemon, and a garnished bunch of parsley ; set on the fire, and 
stir once in a while with a wooden spoon to prevent the sauce from 
getting lumpy ; cover up, and boil slowly for about forty minutes ; take 
off the fat, the parsley, lemon-rind, and slices of ham ; taste the sauce, 
and see that it is of a proper consistency ; serve in a border of plain- 
boiled rice [No. 169]. 



5i8 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Fried Celery, Tomato Sauce. — Take two bunches of celery ; 
pare off the green stalks, trim the roots, shorten to a five-inch length, 
including the root, and boil in slightly salted water with a little butter ; 
drain on a cloth, slit the larger heads in two, season with salt and pep- 
per, dip in a flour batter [No. 5], and fry pretty crisp in plenty of very 
hot fat ; drain, dish up on a folded napkin, and serve with a tomato 
sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Roast Leg of Lamb. — Take a fat, large leg of lamb ; saw off 
the shank-bone, flatten with the cleaver, truss, and roast an hour ; salt 
a little, dish up, add a ladleful of rich broth to the drippings, skim the 
fat, strain the gravy over the meat, and serve either with a shallot or a 
mint sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Compote of Pears with Maraschino. — Choose- eight large 
cooking-pears; cut in halves or quarters, pare, and cook in a light syrup; 
drain and let cool on a sieve ; range in a compot-dish, reduce the 
syrup with two glasses of maraschino liqueur, let cool, pour it over the 
pears, and serve. 



No. 317. 

Tuesday, November 13. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Green-pea, a la duchesse. 

Cutlets of lobster a la Victoria ; 
Sweet potatoes, Carolina style. 

Calf's head, sauce piquante ; 
Mashed squash. 

Roast turkey stuffed ; 
Lettuce and egg, Mayonnaise. 

Souffle au chocolat. 

Green-Pea, ^ la Duchesse. — Wash a quart of green split-peas 
several times in cold water ; put them in a saucepan with half a pound 
of raw ham, a garnished bunch of parsley, a quartered carrot, an 
onion, two leeks and two stalks of celery tied together, and a little 
salt ; add three quarts of light broth, boil, scum well, put in two 
ounces of butter, cover, and set by the side of the fire to simmer 
for two hours ; remove the ham and vegetables, and rub through a 
fine sieve ; return the residue to a saucepan, dilute with more broth 
if required ; stir, boil, and skim again, and finish with four ounces 
of butter and a teaspoonful of sugar ; prepare some duchesse crusts 
as follows : Grate the dry crust of a piece of stale bread ; then from 
the soft crust cut small flat squares or lozenges and fry in clarified but- 



COOKERY BOOK. 519 

ter ; drain on a cloth, and serve separately with the soup. In England 
they usually serve with this soup a plate of mint chopped fine. 

Cutlets of Lobster a la Victoria. — Take all the meat of two 
large cooked lobsters ; chop fine, put in a saucepan two ounces of 
butter with two tablespoonfuls of chopped shallots, fry a while ; add 
the lobster meat, a pint of bechamel sauce, two handfuls of chopped 
mushrooms, salt, white and red pepper, and grated nutmeg ; add also 
the eggs and coral of the lobster (if any) pounded fine with a piece of 
butter ; set on the fire, stir, and boil three minutes, add four egg-yolks, mix 
well, boil a minute longer, and finish with chopped parsley and lemon- 
juice ; turn into a buttered dish-pan and let cool ; strew bread-crumbs 
on the table, divide the preparation in pieces the size of an egg, roll in 
the crumbs, give then> the shape of a chop, dip in beaten eggs, roll in 
the crumbs again, and smooth them with the blade of a knife ; a few 
moments before serving fry them crisp and light brown in plenty of 
very hot lard ; drain, insert in the small end of each cutlet the end of 
a small leg of lobster, dish up in a circle on a folded napkin, put fried 
parsley in the centre, and serve with tomato sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Sweet Potatoes, Carolina Style. — Pare, wash, and boil enough 
small sweet potatoes ; peel while hot, put in a vegetable-dish, season 
with a little salt, pour a partially melted butter sauce over, and serve 
very hot. 

Calf's Head, Sauce Piquante. — Steep in water, blanch, and cook 
a medium-sized calf's head [No. 261] ; drain, pare, and dish up as di- 
rected in the above number ; pour a piquante sauce over, garnish 
symmetrically the edge of the dish with sliced gherkins, and serve with 
more sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Mashed Squash. — Pare and remove the seeds of sufficient Boston 
squash ; boil in salted water, drain thoroughly, and rub through a col- 
ander ; return to a saucepan ; add salt, pepper, nutmeg, a teaspoonful 
of sugar, four ounces of butter, and a cup of cream ; stir to a boil, and 
serve. 

Roast Stuffed Turkey. — Choose a large, dry-picked turkey ; 
singe, draw, fill with poultry-stuffing [No. 33], and roast for about an 
hour and a quarter ; salt and dish up the turkey ; add two ladlefuls of 
broth to the drippings, strain it over, and serve with a cranberry sauce 
or jelly in a glass dish. 

Souffle au Chocolat. — Melt four ounces of plain chocolate in a 
saucepan ; put six ounces of flour and six ounces of sugar in a basin 
and dilute with a quart of milk previously flavored with vanilla ; put 
this with the chocolate, stir on the fire until boiling, set aside, add six 



520 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

egg-yolks, and mix well and quickly ; heat six egg-whites to a hard 
froth, mix carefully with the preparation, turn into a slightly buttered 
baking-dish, sprinkle powdered sugar over, and bake for twenty min- 
utes in a moderately heated oven ; serve immediately. 



No. 318. 

Wednesday, November 14. — Bill of fare for eight persons: 

Soup : Flemish. 

Stewed eels, English style ; 
Stewed potatoes, Navarraise. 

Beef braised, Polonaise ; 
French peas. 

Salmi of quail a 1' essence ; 
Endive salad. 



Apples a la Manhattan. 

Flemish Soup. — ^With a small, pear-shaped vegetable-scoop, 
scoop out enough carrots and turnips, and cut the white of two leeks 
and of two heads of celery in small squares ; parboil, drain, and put 
them in a stewpan with three quarts of beef-broth ; boil, skim, cover, 
and let simmer gently until done ; cook separately a pint of brussels 
sprouts in boiling water ; drain well, and add to the soup with half a 
pint each of french peas and french beans cut in short pieces ; season 
with a little white pepper, add a teaspoonful of sugar, boil five minutes 
longer, and serve with small round crusts of bread previously buttered 
and dried in the oven. 

Stewed Eels, English Style. — Take two large eels ; pare, and 
clean well, and cut in three-inch lengths ; put in a saucepan with sliced 
carrots, onions, pepper-corns, a little salt, and a garnished bunch of 
parsley ; moisten with port wine and water in equal parts, cover, and 
stew gently for twenty minutes ; then drain the fish in another sauce- 
pan, and keep warm ; melt in a smaller saucepan two ounces of but- 
ter with two ounces of flour, stir, and cook till light brown, dilute with 
the eel gravy, and let boil fifteen minutes ; skim well ; finish with two 
ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of anchovy essence, and juice of 
a lemon ; see if the fish is well drained, add to it a pint of cooked 
mushrooms, strain the sauce over, and mingle well by carefully toss- 
ing the saucepan ; dish up in pyramidal form, pour the sauce over, 
garnish with heart-shaped slices of bread fried in butter, and serve. 

Beef Braised a la Polonaise. — Select a ten-pound loin of beef 
of good quality ; bone, season inside with salt and pepper, roll, and 



COOKERY BOOK, 



521 



tie up firmly with strong strings ; cook in the same way as beef \ la 
mode, omitting the calf's fat ; when done (it takes about three hours), 
drain, pare, glaze, and keep warm till wanted ; strain, and free the 
gravy from its fat, and reduce with a pint of espagnole sauce ; dish 
up the beef on a layer of stewed red cabbage, garnish with alternate 
groups of glazed onions and boiled beet-roots nicely rounded, pour the 
sauce over the garnishing, and serve. 

French Peas. — Open the can, and turn the peas into a saucepan ; 
heat to a boil, drain well, add a little salt, sugar, and butter in small 
bits (no pepper) ; mingle well, and serve. 

Salmi of Quail a 1' Essence. — Choose eight fat quail ; pick, 
singe, void, truss, cover the breasts with slices of bacon, and roast them 
rather rare ; cut each quail in three pieces, pare a little, and keep 
them hot ; put the parings and drippings in a small saucepan with a 
few pepper-corns, a pinch of red pepper, a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, 
parsley, a gill of sherry wine, two chopped shallots, and a pint of es- 
pagnole sauce ; boil slowly for twenty minutes, skim the fat, strain 
through a fine strainer, and reduce to the desired consistency ; put 
the quail in the sauce, dish up nicely on eight small but pretty thick 
square slices of bread fried in butter, pour the sauce over, and serve. 

Apples a la Manhattan. — Peel and core eight large cooking- 
apples ; cook in a light syrup, and drain on a hair-sieve ; have as 
many round pieces of sponge-cake as there are apples ; cut them the 
same size, and an inch thick ; sprinkle fine sugar over, and glaze them 
in a moderately heated oven ; dish up the apples on the cakes, set a 
candied or preserved green gage on the top of each, reduce the syrup 
with half a glass of currant jelly, pour it over, and serve. 



No. 319. 

Thursday, November 15. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Scotch broth. 

Boiled pike, aurora sauce ; 
Timbale of potatoes. 

Ham, glazed with spinach ; 
Onions, veloute sauce. 

Salmi of teal ducks au pecheur ; 
Curled celery in glass. 

Pain d' abricots au marasquin, 

Scotch Broth. — Procure a not too fat fore-quarter of mutton ; bone 
the shoulder, pare the breast and keep the parings for further use ; cut 



522 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

the chops rather short, pare off the superfluous bones, fat, and skin, and 
keep them on a plate till wanted ; put all the rest — the neck cut in 
pieces, the parings of the chops and the bones of the shoulder — into a 
saucepan with two pounds of soup-beef, salt, pepper-corns, a bunch of 
parsley with aromatics, and two gallons of water ; set on the fire, start 
slowly, scum well, and boil gently for four hours ; meanwhile put the 
chops in a saucepan with the red part of two carrots, two turnips, two 
onions, the white of two leeks, and four white stalks of celery, these 
all cut in small squares, cover with mutton-broth, and let simmer gently 
for about two hours ; cook also four ounces of barley in another sauce- 
pan, with a quart of broth ; when done, drain, and put the barley with 
the chops and vegetables ; add more broth, boil five minutes longer, 
skim, add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and serve. 

Boiled Pike, Aurora Sauce. — Take a large or two medium- 
sized pike ; scale and dress well, put in a fish-kettle with salted and 
acidulated water to cover, and a highly garnished bunch of parsley ; 
boil and let simmer gently for half an hour, drain, slide on a folded 
napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve with an aurora sauce in a 
sauce-bowl. 

Aurora Sauce. — Make a pint of bechamel sauce [No. 270] ; add 
four ounces of butter, a little cream, a pinch of red pepper, a table- 
spoonful of tarragon vinegar, and enough red lobster butter [No. 283] 
to give a reddish aurora tint ; mix well without boiling. 

Ham, Glazed with Spinach. — Have a twelve-pound ham ; pare, 
trim the hock, remove the hip-bone, and steep in cold water over- 
night ; put in a boiler with cold water to cover, start slowly, and let 
simmer two hours ; drain, pare off the rind, sprinkle on the fatty side 
with powdered sugar and bread-crumbs, put in a dish-pan with a gill 
of sherry wine in a moderately heated oven, and glaze slowly for an 
hour longer, sprinkling occasionally with the liquid in the pan ; place 
on a dish, surround with plain or mashed spinach, add a paper ruffle 
to the bone, and serve with madeira sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Onions au Veloute. — Peel a dozen large onions (take care 
not to cut the tops or roots too much, or they will go to pieces before 
they are done) ; put in a saucepan with plenty of boiling water, salt, 
and an ounce of butter, and boil till tender ; drain on a cloth, range 
on a dish, pour a well-buttered veloute sauce over, and serve. 

Salmi of Teal Ducks au Pecheur.— Roast four teal ducks ; cut 
in pieces, pare, and keep them hot ; put the parings in a saucepan with 
half a pint of burgundy wine, two shallots, a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, 
a pinch of red pepper, and a pint of espagnole sauce ; reduce briskly, 



COOKERY BOOK. 523 

strain the sauce over the ducks ; add two ounces of butter, about half a 
pint of picked crayfish tails, and lemon-juice ; mix well without boil- 
ing, dish up nicely on a large and thick slice of bread fried in butter ; 
pour the sauce over the ducks, surround with eight large crayfish, 
and serve. 

Pain d' AbricOts au Marasquin. — Remove the pits, and put a 
quart of preserved apricots in a basin with a gill of maraschino 
liqueur, the juice of two lemons, and eight ounces of sugar ; melt an 
ounce and a half of gelatine in a pint of boiling water, mingle with the 
apricots, and rub the whole forcibly through a fine hair-sieve ; put back 
in a clean basin, set in broken ice, stir steadily with a wooden spoon 
until the preparation begins to thicken ; pour the whole into a jelly- 
form, return to the ice, let set thoroughly, and serve as a jelly. 



No. 320. 

Friday, November 16. — Bill of fare for eight persons 

Soup : Puree of potatoes a la Jackson. 

Black bass a la maitre d' hotel ; 
Saratoga potatoes. 

Veal cutlets breaded, with spinach ; 
Stewed tomatoes, Boston style. 

Roast goose, dauphinoise ; 
Lettuce salad a la comtoise. 



Rissoles aux fruits. 

Pur6e of Potatoes a la Jackson. — Peel, wash, and cut enough 
potatoes ; put them in a stewpan with water to nearly cover, four 
ounces of butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg, four ounces of salt pork, a 
bunch of parsley, an onion, and a head of celery sliced up ; cook to a 
puree, dilute with white broth, remove the lard and parsley, and rub 
through a sieve ; transfer to another stewpan, add more broth if re- 
quired, stir, and boil again ; skim off the froth as it rises to the surface, 
and a moment before serving finish with a pint of boiling cream, two 
ounces of butter, and a tablespoonful of sugar ; taste, pour into a soup- 
tureen, add small squares of bread fried in butter, and serve. 

Black Bass a la Maitre d' Hdtel. — Dress, wash well, and wipe 
dry four good-sized black bass ; cut slight incisions on both sides, sea- 
son with salt and pepper, baste with oil, and broil slowly and well ; 
range on a dish, pour a partly melted maitre d' hotel sauce [No. 276] 
over the fish, add two quartered lemons, and serve. 

Saratoga Potatoes. — Peel and cut some potatoes in very thin 



524 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

chips ; wash, drain well, and fry not too many at a time and pretty 
crisp in plenty of very hot, clear fat ; drain on a cloth, salt, dish up on 
a folded napkin, and serve. 

Veal Cutlets Breaded, with Spinach. — Cut eight small veal 
cutlets from the loin ; pare, flatten, season with salt and pepper, sprin- 
kle with dry crumbs, dip in beaten eggs, roll in fresh crumbs, smooth 
with a knife-blade, and fry light brown on both sides in a large frying- 
pan with clarified butter and oil in equal parts ; drain, dish up in a 
circle, pour mashed spinach in the centre and a little gravy round the 
dish, and serve. 

Stewed Tomatoes, Boston Style. — Stew tomatoes in the usual 
way, add half the quantity of bruised Boston crackers, season to taste, 
boil all together, and serve pretty thick. 

Roast Goose a la Dauphinoise. — Dress a large, fat young 
goose, and stuff it with chestnuts prepared as follows : Slit, scald, and 
peel two quarts of chestnuts ; put in a saucepan with two ounces of 
butter, two tablespoonfuls of chopped shallot, a little salt, a bunch of 
parsley with aromatics, and a pint of beef-broth ; cover, and cook 
slowly ; when done remove the parsley, and fill the goose with the 
chestnuts ; truss, and place it in a deep earthen dish with half a pint 
of white wine, salt, pepper, two bay-leaves, and a sprig of thyme ; put 
a buttered paper over, cover the whole thoroughly with a stiff dough 
made of flour and water, so as to keep all the aroma inside, and roast 
for about two hours in a moderately heated oven ; when done break 
up the crust, drain the goose ; strain the gravy, free it from its fat, re- 

:e if desired ; add the juice of two oranges and of half a lemon, 
aiso the rind of the oranges cut in fine shreds ; dish up the goose, pour 
the uce over, and serve with a glass of currant jelly turned on a 
plati. 

Lectuce Salad a la Comtoise. — Clean, drain, and put the salad 
in a bowl with pepper and a little vinegar ; have four ounces of petit 
sale (streaked salt pork) ; take off the rind, cut in small squares, put 
in a frying-pan with an ounce of melted butter, and fry pretty crisp ; 
pour this hot over the salad, mix the whole briskly, and serve immedi- 
ately. Put no salt in the salad, for the pork is generally salt enough. 

Rissoles aux Fruits. — Cut some candied or preserved fruits very 
small, mix with a little marmalade, and make a number of rissoles as 
directed [No. 67] ; drain on a cloth, roll in powdered sugar, dish up on 
a folded napkin, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 

No. 331. 

Saturday, November 17. — Bill of fare for eight persons 

Soup : Semolina, Venetian style. 

Sheep's-head, Louisiana style ; 
Boiled rice. 



525 



Chicken hash a la Portugaise ; 
Fried potatoes. 

Loin of beef k la Londonderry ; 
Italian salad. 



Croutes aux oranges. 

Semolina, Venetian Style. — Let drop half a pound of semolina 
in three quarts of well-strained beef-broth in which two partially roasted 
partridges have been boiled ; cook slowly for half an hour, skim well ; 
add a liaison made with five egg-yolks and half a pint of cream, a glass 
of sherry wine, a pinch of red pepper, and two nunrf^c of cr^^^^r^^^ ■r)Zt 
mesan cheese ; set on the fire, stir steadil ;^^e. hui do not let 

boil ; add the juice of a lemon, pour 
of partridges pared and cut in small ( 
parsley ; mix a little, and serve. 

Sheep's-Head, Louisiana Style. — Take a large sheep's-head ; 
cleanse, wash, and wipe dry ; put in a well-buttered baking-dish, 
with salt, two onions and a green pepper chopped fine, two ladlefuls 
of stewed tomatoes, a pint of white wine, a bunch of parsley, a fe' 
bits of butter on top, and a buttered paper over all ; set on the ' 
start slowly, and let simmer for forty minutes, taking care to sr 
the fish occasionally with its gravy ; when done drain the 
keep it warm ; remove the parsley and put the rest in - ' 

with a pint of espagnole sauce ; reduce to a proper co- 
finish with the juice of a lemon, and chopped parsley ; ' 
pour the sauce over, and serve with plain boiled rice 

Chicken Hash a la Portugaise. — Pick oF two 

cold boiled or roasted chickens ; chop it fine, pu acepan 

two ounces of butter with two tablespoonfuls of flou s cook a 

little ; dilute with a pint of chicken-broth, boil five mmutes ; add 
four egg-yolks mixed with a little cream, the juice of a lemon, two 
ounces of butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a tablespoonful of chop- 
ped parsley ; stir and cook a little without boiling ; then add the 
chicken, stir, and warm well, but boil no longer ; pour into a dish, 
smooth the surface, put a row of eight poached eggs over the hash, 
surround with triangular slices of bread fried in butter, and serve. 

Fried Parsnips. — Pare, quarter, and boil some parsnips in slightly 



526 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

salted and acidulated water whitened with a little flour ; drain on a 
cloth, cut them all the same length, roll in flour, and fry light brown 
in pretty hot fat ; drain, salt a little, dish up on a folded napkin, 
and serve. 

Loin of Beef a la Londonderry. — Pare and roast a loin piece 
of beef as directed [No. 308] ; pare and boil partially some eighteen 
large irish potatoes ; roast them in the fat round the beef when it is 
nearly done, then sprinkle a little salt over ; dish up the beef, surround 
with the potatoes, and serve with a sauce-bowl of rich gravy and grated 
horse radish on a plate. 

Italian Salad. — With a half-inch wide tin tube cut lengths of car- 
rot and turnip ; cook separately in slightly salted water, cool, drain on 
a cloth, and cut in small rounds ; cut also some cold boiled potatoes 
and beets, range symmetrically in a salad-bowl with brussels sprouts, 
string-beans, and flowerets of cauliflowers ; pour a ravigote sauce [No. 
91] over, and serve. 

Croutes aux Oranges. — Peel and quarter some six oranges ; pare, 
remove the seeds, boil ten minutes in syrup, drain on a sieve, reduce 
the syrup with two glasses of curafoa liqueur \ then proceed exactly 
and serve as directed [No. 270] for peaches. 



No. 323. 

Sunday, November 18. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Consomme 4 la d' Orleans, 

Stewed black-fish au court-bouillon ; 
Mashed potatoes k\ Espagnole. 

Roll of veal a la Bechamel ; 
Stewed carrots, veloute sauce. 

Canvas-back ducks, currant jelly ; 
Celery salad, Mayonnaise. 

Excellent au cafe. 

Consomm§ S, la d* Orleans. — Prepare three quarts of rich con- 
somme as directed [No. 133] ; a few moments before serving put into 
it enough small quenelles of chicken force-meat [No. 126] made of 
three different colors — white, green, and red, — and a pint of preserved 
green peas (the green is obtained with an extract of spinach, and the 
red with lobster-coral or an extract of orchanet) ; boil a minute longer, 
skim well, and serve. 

Black-Fish au Court-Bouillon. — Choose two good-sized black- 
fish ; immerse them in boiling water, that they may be easily scaled ; 
draw, cut the fins short, and wipe dry ; put them in a buttered baking- 



COOKERY BOOK. 527 

pan with a little salt, white and red pepper, grated nutmeg, a bunch of 
parsley with aromatics, half a pint of port wine, a pint of water, a few 
bits of butter on top, and a buttered paper over all ; set on the fire, let 
boil, and cook slowly, occasionally sprinkling the fish with the gravy ; 
when done (it takes about forty-five minutes), drain the fish and keep 
it warm ; remove the parsley, and put the gravy and seasoning in a 
medium-sized saucepan with a pint of broth, and two ounces of butter 
kneaded with an ounce and a half of flour ; mix well, stir, and boil 
ten minutes ; skim, finish with two ounces of butter, two tablespoonfuls 
of anchovy-essence, and lemon-juice ; mingle well without boiling, 
dish up the fish, pour the sauce over, and serve. 

Roll of Veal a la Bechamel. — Select a short loin of white and 
fat veal ; saw off the spine, roll, and tie firmly with a string ; put in a 
not too deep sautoir (a kind of flat copper saucepan) with a garnishing 
of vegetables and a little water ; season with salt, pepper, and a gar- 
nished bunch of parsley, and lay a buttered paper over ; put in a mod- 
erately heated oven, and cook slowly for about two hours, sprinkling 
occasionally with the gravy ; drain the veal, strain, and free the gravy 
from its fat, add a little more broth, and reduce to a demi-glaze ; mix 
part of this with a quart of bechamel sauce [No. 270] ; pare and dish 
up the veal, glaze the surface with the rest of the reduced gravy, pour 
part of the sauce round the veal, and send to table with the rest in a 
sauce-bowl. 

Roast Canvas-Back Ducks, Currant Jelly. — Choose a pair of 
heavy and fresh canvas-back ducks ; see that the eyes are bright and 
the webs of the feet soft (this shows that they have not hung a long 
time on the stands) ; then prepare, cook rare, and serve as directed 
[No. 301]. 

N. B. — A canvas-back overdone tastes like common wild duck. 
Celery, Mayonnaise Dressing. — Cultivated celery goes natu- 
rally with roasted canvas-back duck ; the birds killed in the latter part 
of November and through December on the Potomac and Susquehanna 
rivers feed on wild celery, which makes the flesh so particularly juicy : 
Pare off the green leaves of two bunches of celery ; cut in short pieces, 
wash well, drain on a cloth, put in a salad-bowl, add a well-seasoned 
mayonnaise dressing [No. 254] ; mix well, and serve. 

Excellent au Cafe (ingredients enough for two quarts). — Make 
an infusion with four ounces of fresh-roasted coffee-beans and half a 
vanilla-bean in a quart of boiling milk ; then put in a kitchen-basin 
sixteen egg-yolks and twenty ounces of sugar, dilute with the strained 
infusion, set on the fire, and stir steadily with a wooden spoon until the 



528 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

mixture begins to thicken ; strain immediately through a sieve into a 
larger basin, and stir occasionally while cooling ; then just before 
freezing add a quart of well-whipt cream [No. 77], mix well, and 
freeze in the ordinary way. This ice-cream is generally moulded in a 
square tin form, then taken out of the form and wrapped around and 
underneath with white paper, and served in a fancy pasteboard box. 



No. 323. 

Monday, November 19. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Puree of cauliflowers. 

Baked halibut with cream ; 
Potatoes soufflees. 

Leg of mutton a la Soubise ; 
Risot a la Napolitaine, 

Partridges a 1' Andalouse ; 
Vegetable salad. 

Apple omelets a la Claremont. 

Puree of Cauliflowers. — Boil well two cauliflowers in salted 
water with a little butter ; drain, and rub through a colander ; dilute 
with two quarts of veloute sauce and a pint of white broth ; add salt, 
pepper, nutmeg, and a tablespoonful of sugar ; then pass the whole 
forcibly through a fine sieve (the finer the sieve the better the puree) ; 
put the residue in a stewpan, stir steadily to a boil ; finish with a liaison 
of six egg-yoks, a pint of cream, and four ounces of butter ; mix well 
on the fire without boiling, and serve with small squares of bread fried 
m butter. 

Baked Halibut with Cream. — Boil four pounds of halibut in 
salted water, drain and pick off all the meat from the bones and skin ; 
have a buttered baking-dish ; put a layer of fish in the centre with salt, 
pepper, nutmeg, chopped mushrooms, and a few tablespoonfuls of 
bechamel sauce, then another layer of fish, and so on until the whole 
is used ; give the form of a dome, pour more sauce over, sprinkle with 
bread-crumbs and a few drops of melted butter, bake light brown in a 
very warm oven, and serve in the baking-dish. 

Potatoes Soufflees. — Roast a dozen large potatoes, break them 
open, take out all the pulp and pound it fine ; add about the fourth of the 
quantity of potatoes of choux-paste (see below) and the same of butter ; 
mix well, then add one by one five whole eggs and a little cream, and 
season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; turn on a floured table, divide in 
pieces the size of a walnut, roll in melted butter, then in bread-crumbs, 



COOKERY BOOK. 529 

and fry, not too many at a time, in plenty of clear, hot fat ; drain, and 
serve on a folded napkin. 

Choux-Paste, Plain, for Force-Meats, etc. — Boil in a sauce- 
pan a pint of water, a little salt, and four ounces of butter ; add at 
once ten ounces of flour, mix well, stir, and cook ten minutes. 

Leg of Mutton a la Soubise. — Pare and cook a leg of mutton 
as directed [No. 30] ; place it on a dish, pour some soubise sauce [No. 
337] around it, and a little reduced gravy over ; add a paper ruffle to 
the bone, and serve with more soubise sauce in a bowl. 

Risot a la Napolitaine. — Chop an onion, and put it in a sauce- 
pan with four ounces of butter ; fry a little, add a pound of rice ; stir, 
fry three minutes longer ; wet with a quart of broth and a ladleful of 
tomato sauce, and season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a pinch of 
saffron ; boil twenty minutes, put the pan aside, add four ounces each 
of melted butter and grated parmesan cheese, and a small garnishing 
of crayfish tails, and mushrooms already cooked and cut small ; cover, 
let rest five minutes, and serve. 

Partridges ^ I'Andalouse. — Pick, draw, and truss three part- 
ridges ; put them in a saucepan with four ounces of butter, the same of 
lean ham sliced fine, and fry light brown all round ; drain off the butter, 
add half a pint of espagnole sauce, the same of water, a gill of sherry 
wine, a bunch of parsley with aromatics, white, and a pinch of red pepper ; 
cover and cook slowly for forty minutes, drain and untruss the 
partridges, remove the parsley, dish up on three square slices of bread 
fried in butter ; skim the fat, reduce and strain the sauce over the 
partridges, and serve. 

Apple Omelets £l la Claremont. — Beat eight egg-yolks with 
four ounces of fine sugar and the rind of a lemon chopped fine ; add 
the eight whites beaten to a hard froth and half a pound of flour at the 
same time ; mix carefully and well, then mix again half a pint of well- 
whipt cream ; with this and two large frying-pans make two large, 
flat omelets ; cook them well by putting the pans in a moderately heated 
oven for five minutes ; then put some very thick apple sauce inside, 
roll the omelets, and put them side by side in a dish ; sprinkle powdered 
sugar over, and glaze with a red-hot iron. 



530 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 324. 

Tuesday, November 20. — Bill of fare for eight persons 

Soup : Raviolis h. la Genoise. 

Stewed codfish with oysters ; 
Potatoes, Hanoverian style. 

Beef tongue with spinach ; 
Fried oyster-plant. 

Woodcock a la Rouennaise , 
Parisian salad. 



Apple pudding with rice. 

Raviolis ^ la Genoise. — Make a pound of nouille-paste [No. 
302] ; prepare chicken force-meat as follows : Chop and pound fine 
half a pound of cooked fowl and two ounces of cooked ham, add the 
half of a calf's brain and four egg-yolks, and rub through a sieve ; put 
the residue in a small basin with two ounces of grated parmesan cheese, 
salt, pepper, nutmeg, and chopped parsley, and mix well ; divide the 
paste in two parts, roll down as thin as possible ; take one flat of paste, 
and with a tablespoon arrange in straight rows, two inches apart, a 
number of balls of force-meat the size of a horse-chestnut ; with a 
paste-brush moisten the rows, then lay the second flat of paste over 
the garnished one, press between the rows to stick them together, then 
every one is a ravioli ; with a pastry-wheel part all the raviolis in 
squares, range them on sheets of paper, cover with a napkin to pre- 
vent drying ; fifteen minutes before serving plunge them in salted 
boiling water, boil two minutes, and let simmer on the side of the fire 
for five minutes longer ; drain on a cloth, range by layers in a deep 
dish, spread grated parmesan cheese between each layer, moisten with 
four tablespoonfuls of beef-extract diluted with two ladlefuls of tomato 
sauce ; strain three ounces of well-cooked but not browned butter over, 
and serve with a tureen of rich beef-broth. 

Stewed Cod with Oysters. — Pare off the head and tail and wash 
six pounds of fresh cod ; part in six pieces, range in a buttered sau- 
toir ; season with salt, pepper, and chopped onion ; moisten with half 
a pint of white wine and the liquor of two dozen cooked oysters, boil 
and cook slowly for fifteen minutes ; drain the fish, add two ounces of 
butter kneaded with an ounce and a half of flour to thicken the sauce ; 
boil five minutes, pass through a napkin, finish with four ounces of 
butter and lemon-juice ; dish up the fish, put the oysters round it and 
the sauce over, and serve. 

Potatoes, Hanoverian Style. — Peel, pare, and slice enough raw 
potatoes ; put them in a saucepan with salt, pepper, and veal-broth to 



COOKERY BOOK. 531 

nearly cover ; boil quickly ; when done (the broth ought to be nearly 
absorbed), add four ounces of butter and chopped parsley ; mix care- 
fully by tossing the saucepan, and serve. 

Beef Tongue with Spinach. — Prepare, clean, lard and cook a 
fresh beef tongue as directed [No. 17] ; put a layer of thick mashed 
spinach on a dish, slit the tongue lengthwise ; turn it heart-shaped, the 
inside uppermost, on the spinach ; surround with triangular slices of 
bread fried in butter, pour the reduced gravy over the tongue, and 
serve. 

Woodcock §. la Rouennaise. — Pick, trim, void, and roast four or 
more woodcock as directed [No. 259] ; prepare the trail on eight 
heart-shaped slices of bread fried in butter, and bake slightly ; divide 
the birds into small joints ; put in a chafing-dish with a glass of claret, 
two ladlefuls of espagnole sauce, a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, two 
chopped shallots, salt, and pepper ; coverj^ light the lamp, let simmer a 
few minutes, turn the lamp down, remove the thyme and bay-leaf ; 
add chopped parsley, lemon-juice, and two tablespoonfuls of sweet oil, 
and serve with the prepared toast. 

N. B. — This being a family dish, it is better to put the chafing-dish 
on the dinner-table. 

Apple Pudding with Rice. — Wash and boil a pint of rice for 
fifteen minutes in two quarts of water ; drain, put in a basin with four 
ounces of sugar, four ounces of butter, and the rind of a lemon 
chopped fine ; mix well and let cool ; wet and press the water out of a 
large strong napkin, and butter the centre ; have ten large apples, 
peeled and cored and partly cooked with melted butter and sugar in a 
saucepan ; put a layer of rice on the centre of the napkin, then a layer 
of apple, another layer of rice, and so on until the whole is used, fin- 
ishing with rice ; tie up firmly, plunge in a saucepan of boiling water, 
and boil for an hour and a half ; drain, turn the pudding over on a 
dish, pour an apple syrup over, and serve. 



No. 325. 

Wednesday, November 21. — Bill of fare for eight persons 

Soup : Puree of celery a 1' Espagnole. 

Dame of salmon a 1' Amiral ; 
Timbale of potatoes. 

Lamb chops, puree of mushrooms ; 
Spaghetti k 1' Italienne. 

Quail k la cendre ; 
Onion and oyster-plant salad. 

Beignets (fritters) i la Montansier. 



532 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Puree of Celery ^ V Espagnole. — Cut in pieces and parboil 

eight heads of celery ; drain and put them in a saucepan with four 
ounces of butter ; cover, and let simmer half an hour ; add four more 
ounces of butter kneaded with flour, mix, and dilute with three quarts 
of veal-broth ; add salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a teaspoonful of sugar ; 
boil ten minutes, rub through a very fine sieve, boil again, skim well, 
finish with four egg-yolks and a cup of cream, and serve with small 
squares of bread fried in butter. 

Darne of Salmon a i' Amiral. — Have a five-pound middle-cut 
of salmon ; put it in a saucepan with sliced carrots and onions, a bunch 
of parsley, salt, pepper, four ounces of butter, a pint of claret, a pint of 
light broth, and a buttered paper over ; boil and cook slowly for an 
hour ; strain, skim the fat, and thicken the gravy with a brown roux 
made of two ounces of flour and two ounces of butter ; boil ten min- 
utes, skim again, press through a napkin, and finish with a tablespoon- 
ful of anchovy-essence, four ounces of butter, and the juice of a lemon ; 
pare off the skin, and dish up the fish ; pour the sauce over, surrouud 
with a dozen fried oysters, and the tail of a lobster cut in collops, and 
serve. 

Timbale of Potatoes. — Cook, drain, mash, and rub two quarts 
of potatoes through a colander ; put them in a saucepan with six 
ounces of butter, two whole eggs, six egg-yolks, salt, pepper, and nut- 
meg ; butter a plain timbale-mould, sprinkle with dry crumbs, roll 
beaten eggs all over the inside, and bread-crumb again ; put the pre- 
pared potatoes in with a little more bread-crumbs and small bits of 
butter on top ; bake for an hour in a moderately hot oven, turn on a 
dish, let rest a while, remoye the mould, and serve. 

Lamb Chops with Puree of Mushrooms. — Cut, pare, and 
broil eight lamb chops ; dish up in a circle alternately with heart- 
shaped slices of bread fried in butter, pour a puree of mushrooms [No. 
156] in the centre, and serve. 

Quail a la Cendre. — These are prepared in two ways : One way 
is to cook them in a tightly covered stewpan with slices of veal, ham, 
aromatics, butter, and white wine ; then serve with the gravy reduced 
with two ladlefuls of espagnole sauce. But we prefer the old method : 
Procure and dress eight fat quail ; put the livers inside again with a 
little salt and butter ; roll the birds in thin bardes of fat pork, then in 
well-buttered thick white paper, and cook them for half an hour in hot 
wood embers as you would potatoes ; remove the paper, range them on 
dry toast, and serve with a sauce-bowl of gravy reduced with a glass of 
sauterne wine. 



COOKERY BOOK. 533 

Beignets (Fritters) a la Montansier. — Prepare a light paste 
with an ounce of concentrated yeast, a pound of flour, five eggs, three 
ounces of melted butter, an ounce of sugar, a small glass of rum, the 
rind of a lemon chopped fine, and two gills of milk ; first make a light 
dough with the yeast, a fourth of the flour, and half of the milk ; mix 
and work well, put in a small basin, and let rise in a warm place ; put 
the rest of the flour in another basin, make a hole in the centre ; put in 
the eggs, a little salt, butter, sugar, lemon, and the rest of the milk ; 
work vigorously for ten minutes with a wooden spoon, lifting the paste 
every time ; add the raised dough, and work a little longer ; cover, and 
put to rise for an hour in a warm place ; turn on a floured table, divide 
in two parts, and roll down very thin ; with a two-inch-round paste- 
cutter cut pieces out of the paste, put a teaspoonful of very thick mar- 
malade on one half, wet the edge, and cover with the other half ; press 
down gently with the blunt end of a smaller paste-cutter, put on floured 
tin sheets, and let rise again ; then fry them, a few at a time, in plenty 
of very hot fat ; drain, roll in powdered sugar, and serve on a folded 
napkin. 

No. 326. 

Thursday, November 22. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
I^Soup : Printanier, a la Parisienne. 

Broiled Savannah shad ; 
Potatoes sautees. 



Fried chicken, tartar sauce ; 
Puree of celery aux croutons. 

Leg of venison, pepper-sauce ; 
Doucette salad. 



Compote of peaches. 

Printanier, ^ la Parisienne. — Prepare and cook some vegetables 
as for printanier soup [No. 251] ; put them with three quarts of con- 
somme [No. 133], boil five minutes, skiin, pour in a soup-tureen ; serve 
with small timbales a la parisienne put in a separate dish with two 
ladlefuls of consomme. 

Timbales Parisiennes for Soups, etc. — Ornament eight or 
more small, lightly buttered timbale-moulds with thin, fancy cuts of 
red beef tongue and truffles ; fill them with a cream chicken force-meat 
made as follows : Remove the sinews, chop, and pound very fine half a 
pound of raw, lean chicken-meat ; season with salt, white pepper, and 
nutmeg ; rub forcibly through a sieve, pound again, stir into it — one at 
a time — the whites of three eggs and a pint of good fresh cream ; when 



534 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

all the moulds are filled, place them in a flat saucepan with boiling 
water to half their height, boil carefully lest the water get in the 
moulds, then cover, and let simmer on the side of the fire for about 
ten minutes. 

Broiled Savannah Shad. — Procure two medium-sized shad ; 
pare off the fins, slit, and open down the back ; season with salt and 
pepper, baste with oil, and broil of a nice color ; slide on a dish, 
spread a maitre d' hotel sauce over, surround with quartered lemons, 
and serve. 

Fried Chicken, Tartar Sauce. — Divide two fat and tender 
chickens as for fricassee ; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; roll in 
melted butter and fresh bread-crumbs, and fry very slowly and light 
brown in clarified butter ; dish up on a folded napkin, garnish with 
fried parsley and quartered lemons, and serve with a tartar sauce [No. 
83] in a sauce-bowl. 

Puree of Celery aux Croutons. — Cut in pieces, wash well, and 
parboil a dozen heads of celery , drain, and put them in a saucepan 
with two ounces of butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a little sugar ; 
set to boil, and cook slowly for an hour ; meanwhile make a white roux 
with three ounces of butter and three ounces of flour ; dilute with the 
celery and a pint of cream, and pass forcibly through a sieve (keep 
this puree pretty thick) ; warm again, add two ounces of butter, dish 
up, smooth the surface, surround with triangular slices of bread (crou- 
tons) fried in clarified butter, and serve. 

Leg of Venison, Pepper-Sauce. — Saw off the shank and re- 
move the hip-bone ; pare, lard, and pickle a small leg of venison as di- 
rected [No. 290] ; roast on the spit or in the oven for about an hour 
and a quarter ; place on a dish, add a paper ruffle to the bone, pour 
some pepper-sauce round the venison, and serve with some more in a 
sauce-bowl. 

Pepper-Sauce. — Put a tablespoonful of mignonette pepper (or 
pepper-corns) in a small saucepan with the ingredients used to pickle 
the venison, and a gill of white-wine vinegar , reduce to one fourth, 
add a pint of espagnole sauce, boil fifteen minutes, skim, and press 
through a napkin. 

Compote of Peaches. — Open two quart-cans of firm peaches, and 
drain on a sieve ; reduce the syrup with a little more sugar and a glass 
of maraschino liqueur ; range the peaches in dome-form on a compot- 
dish, put the cooled syrup over them, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 535 

No. 327. 

Friday, November 23. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Fish-broth with quenelles. 

Baked fillets of mackerel ; 
Mashed potatoes with fine herbs. 

Beef braised a la Marseillaise ; 
Stewed oyster-plant a 1' Espagnole. 

Broiled chicken with cress ; 
Escarole salad. 



Souffle of apricots a la Viennoise. 

Fish-Broth with Quenelles. — Put in a large stewpan four 
ounces of butter, with two onions, two carrots, and two leeks, all sliced 
fine ; fry long enough to evaporate the moisture ; add four pounds of 
bony fish — such as perch, flounder, bass, or black-fish, — and the head of 
a large, fresh cod ; moisten with a quart of white wine and six quarts 
of water ; season with salt, pepper-corns, a highly garnished bunch of 
parsley, and a few blades of mace ; cover the stewpan and boil half an 
hour ; strain the broth, and free it from its fat ; chop up two pounds 
of cod or bass, mix with two eggs, dilute with the broth, add a few 
more sliced vegetables, set on the fire, let boil slowly, stirring until the 
broth begins to boil, then let simmer ten minutes and strain through a 
wet napkin (this ought now to be a limpid, good, healthy broth) ; pour 
some three quarts in a soup-tureen with about four dozen small fish 
force-meat quenelles [No. 12]. 

Baked Fillets of Mackerel.— Take the fillets of four fresh 
mackerel ; pare, remove the skin, and season with salt and pepper ; 
butter an oval baking-dish, spread a little fish force-meat in the 
centre ; place the fillets on it with two handfuls of chopped onion, pars- 
ley, and mushrooms mixed together ; mask with tour ladlefuls of 
espagnole sauce, sprinkle bread-crumbs over, put a few small bits of 
butter atop, and bake for half an hour in a moderate oven ; press the 
juice of a lemon over, and serve in the baking-dish. 

Beef Braised a la Marseillaise. — Cut a piece of rump-beef of 
about ten pounds into eight or more pieces, interlard them with salt 
pork seasoned with allspice ■ and garlic ; cut up a pound of streaky 
salt pork in small pieces, put m a deep stewpan with four ounces 
of lard, fry a little, add the beef, and fry for twenty minutes longer; 
moisten with a bottle of claret ; cook slowly until the wine is all re- 
duced and absorbed by the meat ; add two cloves of garlic, a bunch 
of parsley, a quart of broth, two quartered carrots, two onions, and two 
boned calves' feet, cut in pieces ; cover up hermetically, and let simmer 



536 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

slowly for three hours ; drain, and dish up the meat ; skim off the fat ; 
surround with the carrots, onions, and calves' feet, pour the strained 
gravy over, and serve. 

Garnished Bunch of Parsley for General Use.—Spread on 
the table a few sprays of parsley, put on them a bay-leaf, a sprig of 
thyme, a clove of garlic, and two cloves ; fold the parsley well over 
these ingredients, and tie the whole pretty tightly with a string. 

Broiled Chicken with Cress.— Singe, draw, and pare two tender 
chickens ; slit down the back, crack the main bones, flatten, season 
with salt and pepper, and broil slowly and of a nice color ; dish up 
on four pieces of buttered toast, pour a melted maitre d' hotel sauce over, 
surround with water-cress slightly seasoned with salt and vinegar, and 
serve. 

Souffle of Apricots ^ la Viennoise. — Rub through a sieve 
enough well-strained canned apricots to obtain a pint of pulp ; re- 
duce on the fire with twelve ounces of sugar and the rind of an 
orange chopped fine, turn into another vessel and stir on ice until 
the pur^e thickens ; then mix quickly and carefully with eight egg- 
whites whipped to a hard froth, put in a slightly buttered sweet- 
meat baking-dish, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and bake for twenty 
minutes in a moderate oven ; serve immediately. 



No. 328. 

Saturday, November 24. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Consommd a la Xavier. 

Pike a la Soyer ; 
Potato croquettes. 

Haunch of mutton with gravy ; 
Mashed turnips. 

Chicken saute a la Cumberland ; 
Salsify-leaf salad. 

Gele'e au Montana. 

Consomme a la Xavier. — Put in a medium-sized saucepan half 
a pound of flour, half a pint of milk, four ounces of melted butter, and 
four ounces of grated parmesan cheese ; season with salt, pepper, and 
nutmeg, and work with a wooden spoon ; put on the fire, and stir 
quickly and steadily until the mixture begins to thicken ; remove from 
the fire, and work well a little longer, when it ought to have the appear- 
ance of a fine smooth paste ; then add three eggs, and mix well ; make 
up two sheets of strong paper in the form of a long funnel with a hole 



COOKERY BOOK. 537 

the size of a pencil at the point, fastening at the top with a pin ; into 
each of these put as much of the paste as will nearly fill it, close the 
large end by folding the paper, and gently force the paste out of the 
small end in the shape of good-sized marrowfat-peas into a buttered flat 
pan ; pour boiling water over this, let simmer a few minutes, strain on 
a sieve, and put them in a saucepan with three quarts of consomme 
(No. 133] ; boil three minutes longer, and serve with grated parmesan 
cheese separately on a plate. 

Pike a la Soyer. — Choose a pike weighing about six pounds ; 
cleanse, and place on the drainer in a fish-kettle with salt, pepper-corns, 
a bunch of parsley, two ounces, of butter, a carrot and an onion sliced 
fine, a pint of white wine, and a quart of water ; put a thickly buttered 
paper over, set to boil, and let simmer for forty minutes ; prepare a 
sauce as follows : With two ounces of butter mixed with flour and 
diluted with sufficient fish gravy make a white sauce ; thicken with a 
liaison of three egg-yolks, and press through a napkin ; finish with 
lemon-juice, two tablespoonfuls of " Soyer's sauce," and four ounces of 
butter ; drain, and slide the pike on a folded napkin ; garnish with 
parsley, and serve with the preceding sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Haunch of Mutton with Gravy. — Procure a haunch of mutton 
(leg and hip) ; shorten the handle, and remove the hip-bone ; flatten 
with the cleaver, and truss firmly ; put in a close-fitting oval stewpan 
and cook as directed [No. 30] ; strain and free the gravy from its fat, 
and reduce to a demi-glaze sauce ; drain, pare, and dish up the mutton; 
pour the reduced gravy over, add a paper ruffle to the handle, and 
serve. 

Mashed Turnips. — Peel, slice, and boil enough turnips in 
slightly salted water with a little butter ; drain, press the water out, 
rub through a colander ; add salt, pepper, a little sugar, and four 
ounces of butter ; stir to a boil, turn into a dish, surround with triangu- 
lar slices of bread fried in butter, and serve. 

Chicken Saute ^ la Cumberland. — Cut up two chickens as for 
fricassee ; pare, and flatten slightly ; put in a sautoir with melted butter, 
salt, pepper, and chopped onion ; cover, and fry very slowly, not allow- 
ing meat or onions to brown ; drain off part of the butter, sprinkle with 
two ounces of flour, dilute with a pint of milk and a cup of cream, and 
let simmer fifteen minutes ; finish with chopped parsley and a pinch of 
red pepper ; dish up the chickens, pour the sauce over, garnish with 
heart-shaped slices of bread fried in butter, and serve. 

Salsify-Leaf Salad (these are as good, if not better, than chiccory 
or escarole, and are always thrown away). — When oyster-plant is used 



538 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

save the tops of the heads with the leaves on, pare off the green ones, 
and cut every small head with the white leaves in four pieces ; steep in 
cold water for an hour, drain, wipe dry, and serve as a chiccory salad. 
Gelee au Montana. — Clarify three pints of jelly with twelve 
ounces of sugar, the juice of two lemons, and an ounce and a half of 
gelatine as directed [No. 2] ; cool partially, add a gill of Montana 
liqueur, mix well, fill a jelly-mould, cool thoroughly, and serve. 



No. 339. 

Sunday, November 25. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Bisque of grouse au chasseur. 

Salmon-trout, shrimp sauce ; 
Potatoes a la duchesse. 

Round of veal, English style ; 
Nouilles au Parmesan. 



Canvas-back ducks, cranberry jelly ; 
Celery salad. 

Meringues panachees, 

. Bisque of Grouse au Chasseur. — Roast two grouse ; take off 
the fillets, pare, cut in fine shreds, and keep them till wanted ; then 
make a game-broth as follows : Put in a soup-pot the bones and trim- 
mings of the grouse, two rabbits (you may save the fillets for further 
use), an old hen, two pounds of soup-beef, four ounces of ham, a gar- 
nishing of vegetables, a little salt,*thyme, two bay-leaves, pepper-corns, 
four blades of mace, a little sage, four cloves, a pint of catawba wine, and 
eight quarts of water ; start slowly, scum, cover, and let simmer gently 
for three hours ; this done, free the broth from its fat and strain through 
a napkin ; soak a pound of bread in cold water, press the water out, 
put in a saucepan with four ounces of butter, and stir on a brisk fire 
till this become a thick dough ; dilute with game-broth to the desired 
consistency, rub through a sieve, stir, boil, and skim again ; finish with 
two ounces of butter and a pinch of red pepper, pour into a soup- 
tureen, add the fillets of grouse, and serve. 

Salmon-Trout, Shrimp Sauce. — Cleanse and trim a good-sized 
salmon-trout ; put it in a fish-boiler with salt, pepper-corns, vinegar, a 
bunch of parsley, and water enough to cover ; boil slowly for half an 
hour ; drain and slip the fish on a folded napkin, garnish with parsley, 
and serve with a shrimp sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Shrimp Sauce. — Make an ordinary white sauce with butter, flour, 
and water ; redden a little with lobster butter [No. 283] ; add the juice 



COOKERY BOOK. 539 

of a lemon, four ounces of butter in small bits, and the pared tails of 
three dozen shrimp. 

Orchanet Butter. — When lobster butter is not available prepare 
a tincture thus : Put two ounces of bruised orchanet-root with four 
ounces of butter in a small saucepan \ cover, put the saucepan in boil- 
ing water to half its height for half an hour, then press the butter 
through a fine cloth and keep it on ice till wanted. 

Round of Veal, English Style. — Cut a thick round piece from 
the middle of a leg of veal ; remove the bone, fill its place with a well- 
seasoned stufifing made with bread, butter, raw eggs, chopped onion^ 
and parsley , thrust two iron skewers crosswise through the veal, tie 
with a string to keep it in shape, roll in doubled buttered paper, and 
roast on an english combination spit for an hour and a half (if there is 
none, cook in a roasting-pan with a few sliced vegetables, a little broth 
under and a buttered paper over) ; be careful to baste occasionally 
with the gravy to obtain a clear glazed surface ; drain, untie, and dish 
up the veal ; garnish with plain boiled vegetables such as flowerets of 
cauliflower, brussels sprouts, small carrots, and string-beans ; strain 
and free the gravy from its fat, reduce with a ladleful of espagnole 
sauce, pour over the garnishing, and serve. 

Nouilles au parmesan is a proper dish to serve with the veal. Pre- 
pare, cook, and serve as directed [No. 302], using part of the veal 
gravy. 

Canvas-back Ducks, Cranberry Jelly. — See Nos. 301 and 322 
for directions and advice about canvas-back ducks, and serve with 
cranberry jelly [No. 305] in a crystal dish. 

Meringues Panachees. — Have sixteen meringue-shells as di- 
rected [No. 3] ; fill eight with vanilla ice-cream and the others with 
strawberry or chocolate ; join the two different colors, range on a 
folded napkin, and serve. 



No. 330. 

MoNDAYp November 26. — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup ; Tapioca and tomato. 

Baked colloped lobster ; 
Potatoes a la maitre d' hotel- 
Boiled turkey, stuffed with oysters ; 
Stewed celery a 14 paysanne. 

Entre-cotes of beef a la Parisienne ; 
Doucette and beet salad. 

Blanc-manger a la fleur d' orange. 



540 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Tapioca and Tomato Soup. — Boil two quarts of beef-broth in 
a saucepan ; let drop like rain four ounces of pulverized tapioca, stir- 
ring with a dressing-spoon in the right hand ; cook slowly for twenty 
minutes, skim, add a quart of tomato puree, boil a little longer, skim 
again, pour into a soup-tureen, and serve. 

Baked CoUoped Lobster. — Slice the meat of two large cooked 
lobsters ; have vcv a saucepan a pint of bechamel sauce, reduced with a 
little oyster liquor ; thicken with four egg-yolks ; season with white and 
red pepper ; add the lobster, and chopped parsley ; put in a large but- 
tered baking-dish, sprinkle fine white bread-crumbs over, put small bits 
of butter atop, bake for twenty minutes in a moderate oven, press the 
juice of a lemon over, and serve. 

Boiled Turkey, Stuffed with Oysters. — Choose a large, ten- 
der, fat, dry-picked turkey ; singe, dress, and then fill with oysters pre- 
pared thus : Have two dozen large oysters ; cook them in their liquor 
with two ounces of butter and a little veal-broth, drain the oysters, 
thicken part of the liquid with an ounce of flour kneaded with butter, 
stir and boil ; add three egg-yolks, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and lemon- 
juice, and press through a napkin over the oysters ; let cool ; put them 
in the turkey with the sauce, truss the turkey carefully, and sew up 
both ends, cover the breast with bardes of fat pork ; put in a stewpan 
of adequate size with sliced carrots, onions, a bunch -of parsley, two 
leeks, and four stalks of celery tied together, a little salt, a quart of 
water, and a quart of veal-broth ; cover, start slowly, and let simmer 
gently for an hour, taking care to turn the turkey when half done ; 
strain, and free the broth from its fat, and make an allemande sauce 
[No. 265] with it ; untruss and dish up the turkey, garnish with a few 
more cooked oysters, pour the sauce over it, and serve. 

Stewed Celery st la Paysanne. — Pare off the green stalks of 
two bunches of celery ; cut them all the same length (about five inches), 
parboil, drain, tie them by two, and cook in some light broth with salt 
and pepper ; drain on a cloth ; thicken some of the broth with an 
ounce of flour kneaded in butter, and boil five minutes ; dish up the 
celery, add two ounces of butter to the sauce, pour it over the celery, 
and serve. 

Entre-Cotes of Beef a la Parisienne. — Pare, season, oil, and 
broil two entre-cotes of beef in the ordinary way ; then make a cold 
Parisian sauce as follows : Chop fine four shallots ; mix with four ounces 
of butter, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, lemon-juice, and two 
tablespoonfuls of extract of beef ; dish up the entre-c6tes, spread this 
sauce over them, then put them for a minute or so in a very hot oven 



COOKERY BOOK. 541 

(just long enough to soften the butter), and send to table immediately. 
Blanc-Manger a la Fleur d' Orange. — Scald and blanch a 
pound of almonds with a few bitter ones ; steep them a Avhile in cold 
water, drain, and pound to a paste ; dilute gradually with a quart of 
milk, and press through a strong napkin to extract the liquid ; melt 
in a basin on the fire an ounce and a half of clarified gelatine with a 
pint of water and twelve ounces of sugar ; press through a napkin, cool 
partially, add the extract of almonds and a tablespoonful of orange- 
flower water, and mix well ; imbed a sweet-meat mould in ice, pour in 
the preparation, cool thoroughly, immerse in tepid water, invert on a 
dish, remove the mould, and serve. 



No. 331. 

Tuesday, November 27. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Puree of chestnuts 4 la Mancelle. 

Fillets of flounders a la Brighton ; 
Parisian potatoes. 

Fillet of beef a la Brillat-Savarin : 
Macedoine of vegetables. 

Croustades of quails ; 
Lettuce salad. 

Pain de pommes a la Chantilly. 

Puree of Chestnuts a la Mancelle. — Put two quarts of chest- 
nuts into a stewpan with a quart of game-broth [No. 329] ; cook 
slowly, mash well, dilute with more broth, rub through a sieve, and return 
the residue to a stewpan ; put on the fire and stir steadily till it boils ; 
finish with four egg-yolks diluted with a little broth, four ounces of 
butter, a little sugar, and grated nutmeg ; mix well, and serve with 
small squares of bread fried in butter. 

To Pare Chestnuts. — With a sharp-pointed knife slit the chest- 
nuts across on one side ; put them in a saucepan with boiling water, 
boil a minute, drain well, and put them in a large frying-pan with a 
piece of butter ; stir and fry three minutes on a brisk fire, and cover 
with a thick cloth to keep them warm while shelling. 

Fillets of Flounders ^ la Brighton. — Take the fillets of two 
large flounders ; pare off the skin, fold in two, season with salt and 
pepper, oil, and broil of a nice color in a double gridiron ; dish up on 
small toasted and buttered slices of bread, surround with cooked oys- 
ters and quenelles of fish force-meat ; make an anchovy sauce [No. 
266] with butter, flour, water, and the oyster liquor ; pour over the fish 
and garnishing, and serve. 



542 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Fillet of Beef a la Brillat-Savarin. — Procure a whole fillet of 
beef ; pare off the fat and sinews, and thrust inside small oblong pieces 
of truffles ; mask with a thin layer of sliced vegetables and aromatics, 
cover over with thin bardes of fat pork, tie up the fillet with strings ; 
place it on a narrow baking-pan with more sliced vegetables and aro- 
matics, moisten with a pint of white wine and water in equal parts, put 
in the oven, roast slowly for an hour, and be careful to sprinkle occa- 
sionally with the gravy ; this done, drain the fillet, untie, remove the 
vegetables, pare, and keep warm ; add a little more broth to the gravy, 
strain and free it from its fat, and reduce with a pint of espagnole 
sauce and a glass of madeira wine ; dish up the fillet, garnish with 
groups of sliced sweetbreads, calf's brain, and small glazed onions ; 
pour part of the sauce over all, and serve the rest in a sauce-bowl. 

Macedoine of Vegetables. — With a vegetable-scoop prepare and 
cook enough carrots and turnips with a little sugar, butter, and water ; 
drain and mix with peas, string-beans, and brussels sprouts ; have in a 
saucepan a pint of bechamel sauce ; add salt, pepper, nutmeg, and 
the vegetables ; heat thoroughly without boiling, turn into a deep 
dish, put a small head of cauliflower atop, surround with triangular 
slices of bread fried in butter, and serve. 

Croustades of Quails a la Champenoise. — Slit down the back 
and bone eight quails, leaving the stump and pinion ; fill them with game 
force-meat [No. 365] mixed with the livers and mushrooms cut in small 
squares ; sew them up, roll them in thin slices of fat pork, put them in 
a sautoir with a gill of white wine, a gill of broth, and a small bunch 
of parsley ; cover with a buttered paper and cook half an hour in the 
oven, remove the lard, glaze the breast, drain, untie, and put on eight 
small inch-thick concave croustades of bread fried in butter ; skim 
the fat, strain and reduce the gravy to a demi-glaze sauce, pour it 
over the quails, and serve. 

Pain de Pommes ^ la Chantilly.— Prepare a quart of thick 
apple sauce with twelve ounces of sugar and the rind of a lemon 
chopped fine ; add an ounce and a half of gelatine dissolved with a 
pint of water ; rub the whole through a fine sieve, stir on ice until it 
begins to stiffen ; pour into a wide cylindrical jelly-mould and cool 
thoroughly, turn on a dish, fill the centre with whipt cream [No. 77], 
and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 543 

No. 332. 

Wednesday, November 28. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Consomme a la Deslignac. 

Striped bass au commodore ; 
Mashed potatoes a la bourgeoise. 

Lamb chops, puree of chestnuts ; 
Parsnip cakes. 

Roast mallard ducks ; 
Celery, sauce remoulade ; 



Rice pudding, Grecian style. 

Consomme ^ la Deslignac. — Put in a small vessel eight egg- 
yolks with salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; dilute with half a pint of con- 
somme [No. 133], press through a napkin, and put in a lightly buttered 
plain mould ; steam this as you would a custard, let cool, turn on a wet 
napkin, and cut in small pieces ; put three quarts of consomme in a 
soup-tureen, add the above preparation and a pint of green peas, and 
serve. 

Striped Bass au Commodore. — Choose a four-pound bass ; 
cleanse and wipe dry, stuff it with fish force-meat, sew up the opening, 
and secure the head to the body with a string ; put in a fish-boiler with 
sliced vegetables, a bunch of parsley, a pint of white wine, and oyster 
liquor in equal parts ; put a buttered paper over, cover, and cook 
slowly for forty minutes ; drain the fish, strain and free the gravy of 
its fat, reduce to the desired consistency with enough espagnole sauce, 
finish with a tablespoonful of anchovy-essence, four ounces of butter, 
and lemon-juice ; pare and dish up the fish ; garnish in groups with 
quenelles of fish force-meat, reddened with lobster-coral, and cooked 
oysters and scollops ; pour the sauce over, and serve. 

Mashed Potatoes a la Bourgeoise. — Mash the potatoes in the 
ordinary way, but have them a little thick ; put in a buttered baking- 
dish in dome form, baste the surface with melted butter, sprinkle finely 
grated bread-crumbs over, drop in a little more butter, and bake for 
fifteen minutes in a moderate oven. 

Lamb Chops with Puree of Chestnuts. — Cut eight large fat 
lamb chops ; pare, flatten pretty well, and season with salt and pepper ; 
melt two ounces of butter in a flat saucepan, put in the chops and fry 
briskly and light brown on both sides ; drain the chops on a plate and 
the butter off ; put a little broth and a ladleful of espagnole sauce in 
the saucepan, boil a minute, and put the chops in the sauce ; pour a 
thin layer of pur^eof chestnuts [No. 78] on a dish, and range the chops 
alternately with chop-shaped slices of bread fried in butter ; pour more 



544 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

puree in the centre and the sauce on the chops ; add small paper 
ruffles to the bones, and serve. 

Roast Mallard Ducks. — Choose two large mallard ducks ; singe, 
dress, and roast as directed [No, 298] for red-head ducks ; serve with 
currant jelly in a glass dish. 

Celery, Sauce Remoulade. — Take two bunches of celery ; pare 
off the green stalks, cut in short pieces, wash and drain in a cloth ; put 
in a salad-bowl with a remoulade sauce [No. 85], and mix well. 

Rice Pudding, Grecian Style. — Ingredients : two quarts of 
milk, four heaped tablespoonfuls of rice, eight egg-yolks, two table- 
spoonfuls of corn-starch, an ounce of cinnamon bark, and half a pound 
of sugar ; prepare an infusion with the cinnamon and half a pint of 
milk ; cook the rice with the rest of the milk until thoroughly done ; 
in another saucepan put the starch, sugar, and eggs, and the infusion 
passed through a napkin ; mix well with a small wire whip ; then add 
the rice and milk, set on the fire, stir steadily with a wooden spoon, 
and let boil three minutes ; pour into a large, flat, oval dish, or into 
eight smaller ones ; let cool, and serve with ground cinnamon separately 
on a saucer. 

No. 333. 

Thursday, November 29. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

THANKSGIVING DINNER. 

Raw oysters. 

Soup : Clear green turtle, English style. 

Cod's head and shoulders, caper sauce ; 
Potatoes a la Hollandaise. 

Bouchees au salpicon. 

Roast turkey, stuffed with chestnuts ; 
Lettuce salad. 

Mince pie. 

Clear Green Turtle, English Style. — Prepare and cook the 
turtle as directed [No. 273] ; cut in small squares, put enough in a 
saucepan with a quart of broth from the turtle, two quarts of strong, 
clear beef-broth, two glasses of sherry wine, a bunch of parsley, and a 
pinch of cayenne pepper ; let boil, skim well, remove the parsley, and 
serve with slices of peeled lemon separately on a plate. Preserved 
(canned) turtle can be prepared the same way, provided the gravy is 
clear ; if not, it should be clarified like jelly with a beaten egg ; it may 
also be easily thickened by the addition of flour (browned in butter) to 
the broth. 



COOKERY BOOK. 545 

Cod's Head and Shoulders, Caper Sauce. — Procure the fore- 
half of a large fresh codfish ; pare off the fins, wash well, secure the 
head to the shoulders with a string, put in a deep fish-boiler with salted 
and acidulated water to an inch over ; cover with a sheet of paper, put 
on the fire, start slowly, and let simmer forty minutes ; take up the fish, 
let drain a while, slide on a folded napkin, garnish with parsley, and 
serve with a caper sauce [No. 103] in a sauce-bowl. 

Bouchees au Salpicon. — Make a dozen or more bouchees with 
puff-paste (feuilletage) as directed [No. 295] ; a few moments before 
serving fill with a salpicon made with tongue, chicken, and mushrooms ; 
mixed with good, consistent madeira sauce. A salpicon is a compound 
of either meat, game, fowl, or fish with mushrooms, livers, or truffles — 
the whole cut in small pieces. 

Roast Turkey, Stuffed with Chestnuts. — Select a good-sized, 
fat, and tender turkey ; singe, draw, cut off the legs and neck, not 
omitting to remove the lights, which would spoil the stuffing ; wash the 
inside, and wipe dry ; remove the sinews from half a pound of lean 
veal, and the strings from a pound of leaf-lard ; chop separately and 
fine, put all together in a mortar with salt and pepper, pound vigor- 
ously for five minutes, moisten with a ladleful of broth, add four dozen 
of peeled and cooked chestnuts, fill the breast and body of the turkey, 
tie both ends very closely, truss firmly with strong twine and a dress- 
ing-needle, and roast for about an hour and a half ; add a ladleful of 
broth to the drippings, strain, and skim the fat ; untie and dish up the 
turkey, and serve with the gravy separately in a bowl. 

Mince Pie. — (As to ingredients, we give certain quantities, but 
more or less may be used :) A pound and a half of roasted and pared 
sirloin of beef, one pound of beef-suet, and one pound of apples — the 
whole cut fine ; one pound each of brown sugar, malaga, currant, and 
sultana raisins ; four ounces each of candied citron, orange and lemon 
peel cut in fine shreds ; the rind, of two lemons and of two oranges 
chopped very fine ; an ounce of allspice ; a pint of brandy and a bottle 
of sherry wine ; mix well, put in a jar, close tightly, and keep a fort- 
night in a cool place ; or, if you are in a hurry, place the jar for two 
days in a warm closet ; put a thin flat of feuilletage paste [No. 278] on 
a pie-plate, garnish the centre with mince-meat, wet the edge, and cover 
with another flat of the same paste ; press the edge gently with the 
thumbs, egg the surface, make a hole in the middle, and with the point 
of a knife trace a few incisions over and cut a little round the edge ; 
bake thoroughly in a moderate oven, sprinkle with powdered sugar, 
and serve hot. 



546 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Xo. 334. 

Friday, November 30. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Flounder, k V Americaine. 

Boiled mackerel a la Bolonaise ; 
Mashed potatoes. 

Turkey-giblets with turnips ; 
Roast Portuguese onions. 

Mutton chops breaded, English style ; 
Celery salad. 

Souffle a r orange. 

Flounder Soup a I' Americaine. — Put in a saucepan three 
ounces of butter with three ounces of flour ; stir, cook a little ; dilute 
with five pints of fish-broth [No. 327], a pint of oyster and scollop liq- 
uor, and half a pint of catawba wine ; season with white and red pep- 
per, put on the fire, and stir steadily till the soup boils ; skim well, and 
cook slowly for half an hour ; then prepare in a soup-tureen (the whole 
well drained) two dozen small cooked oysters, half a pint of cooked 
scollops, the fillets of two small flounders colloped the size of the oys- 
ters and cooked in a little butter and oyster liquor, and at the last 
moment two handfuls of round flat cuts of bread-crust fried in clarified 
butter ; press the soup through a napkin, add two ounces of table but- 
ter, mix well, pour into the tureen over the garnishing, and serve very 
hot. 

Boiled Mackerel ^ la Bolonaise. — Cleanse, pare, and remove 
the heads and tails of four large, very fresh mackerel ; cut in halves 
crosswise ; put in a flat saucepan with sliced onions, a bunch of pars- 
ley, salt and pepper, white wine, and enough boiling water to nearly 
cover the fish, and a buttered paper over ; set on the fire, boil, and let 
simmer gently for fifteen minutes ; when done dish up on a folded 
napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve with a sauce-bowl of ravigote 
sauce [No, 256] made with the broth from the fish. The rest of the 
broth can be advantageously used in the soup. 

Turkey-Giblets with Turnips. — Take the giblets — that is, the 
necks, wings, gizzards, hearts, and livers of two turkeys, — keep the 
livers for later use ; cleanse, wash, wipe dry, and cut the rest in 
pieces ; put in a stewpan four ounces of butter with six ounces of salt 
pork cut in square pieces ; fry a little, add the giblets, stir, and fry 
again until the whole is of a nice brown color ; sprinkle two table- 
spoonfuls of flour over, mix well, dilute with broth and water in equal 
parts ; season with salt, pepper, and a bunch of parsley, and set on the 
fire ; stir once in a while before it boils, so that the sauce will not get 



COOKERY BOOK. 547 

lumpy, and let simmer gently till nearly done ; then add the livers cut 
in slices, and enough turnips cut in pieces, having been trimmed, lightly 
sugared, partially browned on a brisk fire in a large frying-pan with hot 
lard, and well drained ; cook slowly for about fifteen minutes longer ; 
let rest a while, skim off the fat, remove the parsley, dish up, pour the 
sauce over, and serve. 

Roast Portuguese Onions. — Take four large or eight small 
Portuguese onions, and roast them in the peel until soft in hot wood- 
embers or in a moderately heated oven, as you would roast potatoes ; 
pare off the roots and tops and all the skins but the last one, and serve 
them in the folds of a large napkin with melted butter separately in a 
sauce-bowl. 

Mutton Chops Breaded, English Style.— Cut eight fat- 
covered mutton chops ; flatten pretty heavily, season with salt and 
pepper, baste with melted butter, roll in fresh crumbs, and broil slowly 
and rather rare ; dish up in a circle, and serve with a currant-jelly 
sauce [No. 275] in a sauce-bowl. 

Souffle ^ 1' Orange. — Make a preparation as directed [No. 257], 
but for the vanilla-bean substitute the rind of two oranges chopped 
very fine with powdered sugar, and mix at the same time with the 
egg-yolks ; add the egg-whites beaten to a hard froth, cook, and serve 
as directed in the above number. 



No. 335. 

Saturday, December i. — Bill of fare for eight persons; 
Soup : Giblet, with leeks. 

Broiled eels, sauce hachee ; 
Broiled potatoes. 

Grenadins of veal, tomato sauce ; 
Baked macaroni. 



Timbale of turkey livers i la Vefour ; 
Cabbage salad a la Savoyarde. 

Glazed apples with crusts. 

Giblet Soup with Leeks. — Parboil two giblets, either of turkey 
or goose ; save the livers for further use, wash, drain, wipe dry, pare, 
and divide the giblets in small pieces ; put them in a saucepan with 
three ounces of butter, fry long enough to evaporate the moisture, drain 
off the butter, add three pints each of beef-broth and water, a bunch 
of parsley, two heads of celery, and the whites of eight large leeks tied 
in a bunch ; set to boil and let simmer till the meat is thoroughly 



548 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

done ; a few moments before serving remove the leeks, celery, and 
parsley ; untie the leeks, cut them in inch-lengths, return them to the 
soup, and serve. 

Broiled Eels, Sauce Hachee. — Have two large eels, cut them 
in five-inch lengths, put in a saucepan with sliced carrots and onions, 
a bunch of parsley, salt, pepper-corns, half a pint of vinegar, and cold 
water enough to cover ; boil slowly for ten minutes, let cool, drain well 
on a cloth, roll in bread-crumbs, dip in two beaten eggs mixed with 
two ounces of sweet oil ; roll again in fresh crumbs, and smooth all 
round with the blade of a knife ; fifteen minutes before serving broil 
them of a nice color in an oiled paper over a moderate charcoal fire. 

Sauce Hachee. — Chop fine and put in a saucepan two table- 
spoonfuls of chopped shallots, two ounces of butter, a glass of white 
wine, and a glass of vinegar ; reduce one half, add a pint of espagnole 
sauce, and boil five minutes ; finish with a tablespoonful each of 
chopped mushrooms, parsley, gherkins, and capers, and two ounces of 
butter ; mix well, dish up the fish, surround with quartered lemons 
and fried parsley, and serve with the above sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Grenadins of Veal, Tomato Sauce. — Prepare, lard, and cook 
eight or more good-sized grenadins of veal as directed [No. 135] ; dish 
up in a circle alternately with round slices of bread fried in butter, 
pour a tomato sauce in the centre and the reduced gravy on the veal, 
and serve. 

Timbale of Turkey Livers ^ la Vefour. — Remove the gall- 
cysts from eight or ten good turkey livers ; put them in a sautoir with 
half a pound of thinly sliced fat pork, salt, pepper, a few blades of 
mace, a loosely tied bunch of parsley, chopped shallots, and two ounces 
of butter ; fry carefully on a brisk fire till the livers are well set ; 
moisten with a glass of sherry, and reduce till nearly evaporated; remove 
the parsley and let cool ; then pound the whole in a mortar with a 
third of its quantity of bread panada [No, 294] ; add gradually eight 
egg-yolks, two whole eggs, and a ladleful of espagnole sauce ; rub 
through a fine sieve ; add two handfuls of white turkey-meat cut in 
small squares ; mix well, and put this in a buttered plain cylinder- 
mould ; place a buttered paper over, put in a saucepan with boiling 
water to half the height of the mould, cover, and boil slowly for an 
hour ; fifteen minutes before serving, invert the mould on a dish, drain 
off the liquid that may ooze out of the cylinder ; pout a madeira sauce 
over, and serve. 

Glazed Apples with Crusts. — Pare, quarter, remove the cores, 
and slice a dozen cooking-apples ; put them in a large sautoir with 



COOKERY BOOK. 549 

four ounces of melted butter, the rind of two lemons chopped very 
fine, and twelve ounces of sugar ; put on a brisk fire, and toss the 
apples occasionally till cooked ; dish up in dome form, surround with 
triangular slices of bread fried in butter and glazed with powdered 
sugar ; sprinkle powdered sugar over the apples, brown slightly with a 
red-hot glazing iron, and serve. 



No. 336. 

Sunday, December 2. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Consomme a la RacheL 

Baked oysters a la Duxelles ; 
Slewed potatoes. 

Stewed quail with rice ; 
Spinach with cream. 

Fillet of beef a la financiere ; 
Lettuce and egg salad. 

Pyramid of chestnut ice-cream. 

Consomme ^ la Rachel. — Spread in a buttered, small, square 
tin pan about twelve ounces of cream chicken force-meat [No. 326] ; 
place it in a larger pan with a little boiling water, and put in a brisk 
oven for about four minutes to set ; when pretty firm, let cool ; turn 
on a large sheet of paper, divide with a small, round, paste-cutter ; put 
in a soup-tureen with half a pint each of small green peas and string- 
beans cut in short pieces ; thicken five pints of consomm^ [No. 133] 
with three ounces of flour cooked in butter, boil fifteen minutes, skim, 
add a liaison of four egg-yolks, a cup of cream, a little sugar and nut- 
meg ; mix well without boiling, strain over the garnishing in the tureen, 
and serve. 

Baked Oysters a la Duxelles. — Cook three dozen large oysters 
with two ounces of butter and a little broth ; drain and reserve the 
liquor ; put in a saucepan a chopped onion, a pint of chopped mush- 
rooms, and three ounces of butter ; fry long enough to evaporate the 
moisture, add the oyster liquor ; thicken with two ounces of flour 
kneaded with butter, set on the fire, stir to a boil, add the oysters, 
and let simmer a minute ; finish with a liaison of four egg-yolks, 
lemon-juice, chopped parsley, and a pinch of red pepper ; mix well, 
turn into a deep baking-dish, sprinkle pulverized crackers over, add 
small bits of butter, and bake of a nice color in a brisk oven ; serve 
immediately. 

Stewed Quail with Rice. — Take six fat quail, draw, and dress 



550 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

nicely ; put in a saucepan with two ounces of butter, and four 
ounces of streaky salt pork cut small, and previously boiled for two 
minutes in water ; set this on the fire, stir and fry light brown, add a 
chopped onion and a pint of rice, and fry a little longer ; add three 
pints of broth and a bunch of parsley, cover and cook half an hour ; 
drain the quail and remove the parsley ; put a layer of rice on a dish, 
range the quail symmetrically upon it, cover and fill the spaces with the 
rest of the rice, and give the whole a dome form, letting the breasts 
of the quail slightly protrude ; pour a demi-glaze sauce round the dish, 
and serve. 

Spinach with Cream. — Prepare some mashed spinach [No. 6i] ; 
dilute with a pint of boiling cream ; turn into a dish, surround with tri- 
angular slices of bread fried in butter, and serve. 

Fillet of Beef a la Financiere. — Take a whole fillet of beef ; 
pare, lard, and cook as directed [No. 275] ; drain, pare, and serve on 
a large oval dish with groups of colloped sweetbreads, mushrooms, 
quenelles of chicken force-meat, and blanched Spanish olives previously 
stoned ; glaze the fillet with a paste-brush dipped in beef-extract ; pour 
a madeira sauce over the garnishing, and serve. 

Pyramid of Chestnut Ice-Cream (Ingredients for two 
quarts.) — Peel and roast white, eighteen large chestnuts ; boil till 
thoroughly done in a syrup made with half a pound of sugar ; drain, 
pound to a puree, dilute with sixteen egg-yolks, the syrup, and a pint 
of milk ; add twelve ounces of powdered sugar, and a vanilla-bean cut 
in short pieces ; put in a kitchen-basin, set on the fire, stir till the 
preparation thickens, remove and rub through a fine sieve ; add a quart 
of raw cream ; mix well ; freeze in the ordinary way, put in a pyramid- 
mould, cover hermetically, and bury in a pail of salted ice for at least 
two hours ; when ready to serve, dip in warm water, invert on a folded 
napkin, and serve. 

No. 337. 

Monday, December 3. — Bill of fare for eight persons ; 
Soup : Cabbage, with pork. 

Baked white-fish with fine herbs ; 
Potato balls h. la Rouennaise. 

Sheep-tongues a la Soubise ; 
Oyster-plants sautes. 

Cutlets of partridge, Colbert sauce 5 
Escarole salad a la Gasconne. 

Meringued apples. 



COOKERY BOOK. 551 

Cabbage Soup with Pork. — Take a three-pound breast piece 
of salt pork ; wash in tepid water, put in a soup-pot with six quarts of 
water, boil half an hour ; add a savoy cabbage cut in eight pieces, a lit- 
tle salt and pepper, a carrot, an onion, two turnips, and two leeks, the 
whole cut in pieces ; boil again for an hour and a half, add also a few 
sliced raw potatoes, and boil a little longer ; this done, drain and put 
the vegetables in a soup-tureen alternately with sippets of french bread ; 
pour the broth over, and serve. The pork may also be served sepa- 
rately with some of the cabbage kept for the purpose. 

White-Fish with Fine Herbs. — Have two medium-sized white- 
fish ; cleanse and remove the head ; place side by side in a baking-dish 
with chopped onions, mushrooms, and parsley, &alt, pepper, nutmeg, a 
glass of white wine, a little broth, and a few small bits of butter over ; 
put in a brisk oven, baste once in a while,, and cook till the liquid is 
evaporated ; then mask with veloute sauce, sprinkle with fine crumbs, 
add small bits of butter atop, and bake light brown in a brisk oven ; 
press the juice of a lemon over, and serve in the baking-dish. 

Sheep-Tongues a la Soubise. — Parboil, scrape, and pare eight 
sheep-tongues ; put them in a saucepan with salt, sliced vegetables, a 
bunch of parsley, and water enough to cover, and cook slowly till well 
done ; drain and keep them warm ; strain, and free the liquid from its 
fat, and reduce to a demi-glaze sauce ; pour a little soubise sauce in a 
dish ; cut in two, and range the tongues over in a circle ; pour more 
sauce in the centre and the demi-glaze over the meat, and serve. 

Soubise Sauce. — Peel, slice, and parboil a quart of white onions ; 
drain, cool, and press out the water ; put in a saucepan with two ounces 
of butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a little sugar ; put on a slow fire 
and let simmer gently for half an hour ; add two ounces of flour kneaded 
with butter, mix, dilute with a pint of milk, stir, and boil ten minutes ; 
then rub through a fine sieve, stir again, heat without boiling, and finish 
with two ounces of butter. 

Oyster-Plants Sautes. — Cook two bunches of oyster-plants as 
directed [No. 309] ; drain, cut in two-inch lengths, put in a frying-pan 
on a brisk fire with four ounces of butter, and toss till light brown ; 
drain the butter ; add salt, pepper, and chopped parsley ; mix, and 
serve. 

Cutlets of Partridge, Sauce Colbert. — Prepare and cook eight 
cutlets of partridge as directed [No. 282] ; dish up in a circle with 
round slices of bread fried in butter ; pour a colbert sauce in the centre, 
and serve. 

Meringued Apples. — Pare, core, and slice a dozen apples ; put 



552 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

them in a saucepan, stir, and cook to a thick consistency with two 
ounces of butter, sugar, and the rind of a lemon chopped fine ; dish up 
in dome form ; an hour before serving mask over with meringue and 
smooth the surface ; make up a sheet of paper in the form of a long 
funnel with a hole the size of a large pencil at the point ; fasten the 
top with a pin, fill the funnel with sufficient meringue, close the large 
end by folding the paper, force out the meringue gently, and decorate 
the surface ; sprinkle sug^r all over and cook light brown for twenty 
minutes in a moderate oven ; garnish the dish with small cuts of cur- 
rant jelly, and serve. 

To Make Meringue. — Part carefully the whites of twelve eggs 
from the yolks ; put them in a very clean copper kitchen-basin ; with 
a wire egg-whip beat them to a hard froth, mix quickly and carefully 
with them a pound of fine sifted powdered sugar and a teaspoonful of 
vanilla-sugar ; the preparation then is ready for every case — for shells, 
kisses, petits fours, swiss meringues, baskets, charlottes, etc. 



No. 338. 

Tuesday, December 4. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Consomme a la Celestine. 

Stewed perch a la bateliere ; 
Baked potatoes a la Vaudoise. 

Stewed quail with cabbage ; 
Onions glazed, Spanish style. 

Porterhouse steak, Bohemian sauce ; 
Chiccory salad. 

Gelee a la Chartreuse. 

Consomme d, la Celestine. — Prepare three quarts of consommd 
[No 133] ; thicken with three ounces of flour cooked in butter, and 
let boil slowly ; meanwhile get ready a pancake preparation without 
sugar, made with three eggs, two egg-yolks, four ounces of flour, a little 
water, and melted butter ; mix well, and pass through a colander ; 
then melt a little butter in a large frying-pan, and make about a dozen 
very thin, well done, and lightly colored pancakes ; cover one side of 
one half with a thin layer of cream chicken force-meat [No. 3^6], mixed 
Avith a handful of grated parmesan cheese, then put the other half over 
these, press down gently, place them apart in a large flat dish-pan, 
resting that for a minute or so in the oven, in order to set the force- 
meat ; with a very sharp knife divide in small regular pieces, and put in 
a soup-tureen ; skim, add a liaison of three egg-yolks, a little cream 



COOKERY BOOK. 553 

and two ounces of butter to the soup ; strain this over the garnishing, 
and serve. 

Stewed Perch a la Bateli^re. — Have four pounds of well- 
cleaned perch ; put them in a flat saucepan with salt, pepper, two 
sliced onions, a bunch of parsley, claret and water in equal parts to 
nearly cover the fish, and cook slowly for half an hour ; drain the fish, 
remove the parsley, thicken the gravy with two ounces of flour kneaded 
with butter, and boil a few minutes ; finish with a tablespoonful of 
anchovy-essence, lemon-juice, and two ounces of butter ; dish up the 
fish, pour the sauce over, and serve. 

Potatoes a la Vaudoise. — Peel and slice a dozen potatoes ; 
butter a deep baking-dish, range the potatoes in layers, alternating 
with a little salt, pepper, nutmeg, and grated gruyere cheese ; give a 
dome shape, moisten with half a pint of veal or chicken broth, and 
sprinkle grated cheese, bread-crumbs, and small bits of butter on top ; 
cook and bake light brown in a moderate oven for about forty minutes, 
basting once in a while with the liquid. 

Quail with Cabbage. — Dress and truss four or more fat quail, 
and proceed exactly as directed [No. 291] for partridge ; serve in the 
same way, but be careful not to over-cook the quail. 

Onions Glazed, Spanish Style. — Peel carefully and put a dozen 
large onions in a buttered sautoir with two ladlefuls of espagnole sauce 
and one of broth ; sprinkle a little sugar over, put a small bit of butter 
on each onion, set on the fire, start slowly without displacing the 
onions, place a buttered paper over, and let simmer gently in a moder- 
ate oven till done ; dish up with a fork, taking care not to break them; 
skim the fat, and if necessary reduce the gravy ; strain over, and serve. 

Porterhouse Steaks, Bohemian Sauce. — Pare, flatten, season 
with salt and pepper, and broil rather rare two large porterhouse 
steaks ; put them on a dish with a little melted butter over, and serve 
with a bohemian sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Bohemian Sauce. — Put in a saucepan four handfuls of fresh 
bread-crumbs, dilute with two ladlefuls of good broth, season with salt 
and pepper, let boil ten minutes, taking care to stir the sauce occasionally, 
and pass forcibly through a fine strainer as you would a bread sauce ; 
add four tablespoonfuls of fresh-grated horseradish and two ounces of 
butter ; mix well, but boil no longer ; pour into a sauce-bowl, and serve 
along with the steaks. 

Gelee a la Chartreuse. — Clarify three pints of sweet jelly as 
directed [No. 2] ; cool partially, add a gill of chartreuse liquor, mix 
carefully, fill a jelly-mould, cool on ice, and serve. 



554 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 339. 

Wednesday, December 5. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Puree of chiccory. 

Boiled halibut, shrimp sauce ; 
Stuffed potatoes. 

Breast of mutton, sauce Robert ; 
Macaroni a 1' Italienne. 

Roast partridges a la Perigueux ; 
Lettuce salad. 

Gateau Savarin (cake) with rum. 

Puree of Chiccory. — Pare off the green leaves and parboil eight 
chiccory (endive), drain, cool, press the water out and chop fine ; melt 
four ounces of butter in a saucepan ; add the chiccory, salt, pepper, and 
nutmeg ; set on a brisk fire, stir steadily with a wooden spoon till the 
moisture is mostly evaporated, add four ounces of flour, mix well, 
dilute with two quarts of white broth and a quart of milk, stir 
occasionally, and boil gently for half an hour ; rub through a fine 
sieve, boil again ; finish with four egg-yolks beaten with half a pint 
of cream, two ounces of butter, and a tablespoonful of sugar ; mix 
again, and serve with small squares of bread fried in butter. 

Broiled Halibut, Shrimp Sauce. — Procure three pounds of 
middle-cut halibut steaks ; season with salt and pepper, baste with 
oil, roll in flour, and broil over a pretty brisk fire ; range on a dish, 
pour a little melted butter over, and serve with a shrimp sauce, in a 
sauce-bowl. 

Shrimp Sauce. — Prepare an ordinary white butter sauce, lightly 
reddened with lobster butter ; finish with a pinch of red pepper, the 
juice of half a lemon, and the shelled tails of fifty shrimps pared 
and cut in two (if you have no shrimps use two tablespoonfuls of 
Crosse & Blackwell's essence of shrimps, but put no salt in the sauce). 

Stuffed Potatoes. — Bake slowly a dozen large, mealy, irish 
potatoes ; select eight or ten of the best, cut a hole in the top, 
take out the pulp ; put it in a saucepan with three ounces of butter, 
salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; mash well and add a handful of grated par- 
mesan cheese ; with this fill the potato crusts, close the opening with 
the removed piece, place them upright in a sautoir, and bake for a few 
minutes longer. 

Breast of Mutton, Sauce Robert. — Pare and bone carefully 
two breasts of mutton ; cut a deep incision in the large breast, and fill 
with german stuffing [No. 344] ; sew up the opening ; put the smooth 
side uppermost in a sautoir with sliced vegetables, a bunch of parsley, 



COOKERY BOOK. 555 

and broth to nearly cover ; put a buttered paper over, cover the sau- 
toir, boil and cook in a moderate oven for an hour and a half ; drain 
the mutton, strain, skim the fat, and reduce the gravy to a demi-glaze 
sauce ; untie, pare and dish up the breasts on two long and thick fried 
slices of bread, pour the gravy over, and a robert sauce [No. 355] 
round the dish, and serve. 

Roast Partridge a la Perigueux. — Dress and roast four tender 
partridge as directed [No. 289] ; dish up on four pieces of dry toast, 
strain the drippings over, and serve with a perigueux sauce [No. 72] 
in a sauce-bowl. 

Savarin Cake au Rhum. — Sift in a basin four ounces of flour, 
form a hollow in the centre, add an ounce of yeast ; dilute with warm 
milk, make a light dough, knead well, and let rise in a warm closet ; 
meanwhile prepare in a larger basin twelve ounces of flour with a hole 
in the centre also ; add a little salt, four ounces of sugar, a little milk, 
five ounces of butter, and eight eggs ; work vigorously with the hand 
for ten minutes, lifting the paste with every movement ; then add the 
dough, work for five minutes longer, and finish with a half-cup of 
cream ; cover the basin and let rise in a warm closet again for about 
three hours ; butter one or more plain tin savarin-moulds, sprinkle fine 
shredded almonds in them ; fill three fourths of the mould with the 
paste ; let rise till the mould is full, and bake in a pretty hot oven; 
turn the cakes over, dip them in warm rum syrup, drain on a wire 
grate, and serve hot. 



No. 340. 

Thursday, December 6. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Chicken-broth with barley. 

Baked lobster a la Bechamel ; 
Stewed potatoes a la bourgeoise. 

Sirloin steaks with onions ; 
Stewed cabbage a la Fribourg. 

Mallard ducks a la Proven9ale ; 
Celery, sauce remoulade. 

Apricot tart, French style. 

Chicken-Broth with Barley. — Dress and quarter a year-old 
well-fed hen ; put in a stewpan with a little salt, a knuckle of veal and 
six quarts of water; boil, scum; add a carrot, an onion, two leeks, and 
two stalks of celery ; cover and cook slowly for two hours ; wash and 
parboil half a pound of barley, drain, wash, and cook in chicken-broth ; 
put this in a soup-tureen, add enough of well-skimmed and strained 



556 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

chicken-broth, and serve. This is a most healthy and nourishing soup 
for convalescents, and, there being no spices in it, is specially recom- 
mended for children and invalids. 

Baked Lobster ^ la Bechamel. — Boil two good-sized lob- 
sters ; cut them lengthwise, take the meat off the tails and claws ; re- 
serve the shells of the bodies and tails ; slice the meat fine, mix it with 
a pint of bechamel sauce, salt, pepper, nutmeg, a pinch of red pepper, 
four egg-yolks, two ounces of butter, lemon-juice, and chopped pars- 
ley ; stir and boil a minute ; fill all the shells, smooth the surface ; 
sprinkle fresh bread-crumbs over, put small bits of butter on top, bake 
light brown in a brisk oven, and serve on a folded napkin. 

Stewed Potatoes a la Bourgeoise. — Peel and quarter enough 
small, cold boiled potatoes ; put them in a saucepan with salt, pepper, 
nutmeg, two ounces of butter, and a pint of broth ; cover and boil till 
the liquid is reduced one half, add two more ounces of butter and 
chopped parsley, and serve. 

Sirloin Steaks with Onions. — Season four medium-sized sirloin 
steaks with salt and pepper, and broil them rare ; dish up, pour an 
onion sauce over, and serve. 

Onion Sauce. — Slice fine four onions, fry a light-brown color in 
butter ; add half a pint of espagnole sauce, and a ladleful of broth, salt, 
and pepper ; reduce to a proper consistency, and finish with chopped 
parsley and a few drops of vinegar. 

Stewed Cabbage a la Fribourg. — Cut in quarters and slice 
coarsely two savoy cabbage ; wash and drain well ; chop an onion 
and put it in a saucepan with two ounces of butter ; stir and fry 
till lightly browned ; add the cabbage, a gill of white-wine vinegar, 
a pint of white broth, salt, and pepper ; cover and let simmer for about 
two hours, when the moisture ought to have nearly evaporated ; finish 
with three ounces of butter kneaded with an ounce of flour ; mix well, 
boil a few minutes longer, and serve. 

Mallard Ducks a la Provengale. — Singe and draw two fat 
mallard ducks ; remove the gall and chop the livers with a clove of 
garlic ; mix with poultry stuffing [No. 33], stuff the ducks, tie both 
ends ; truss and roast for about thirty-five minutes, untruss, dish up, 
add a little broth to the drippings, strain them over the ducks, and serve 
with a shallot sauce [No. 207] in a sauce-bowl. 

Apricot Tart, French Style. — Butter and line a ten-inch pastry- 
ring with tart-paste as directed [No. 156] ; cook and prepare in the 
same way ; spread some marmalade on the bottom, cover with well- 
drained preserved apricots, reduce the syrup with a little more sugar 



COOKERY BOOK. 557 

and a glass of maraschino liqueur ; let cool, pour this over the apricots, 
and serve cold. 



No. 341. 

Friday, December 7. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Eel, i la St. Laurent. 

Fried herring, mustard sauce ; 
Fried potatoes a la Julienne. 

Fricassee of chicken with salsify ; 
Boiled onions au veloute. 



Roast racks of mutton, currant jelly; 
Chiccory salad. 

Custard fritters a la fleur d' orange. 

Eel Soup ^ la St. Laurent.— Cut the fillets of two large eels 
the size of an oyster ; put them in a sautoir with two ounces of butter, 
two glasses of white wine, salt, and pepper ; cover, and let simmer 
fifteen minutes ; drain, and put in a soup-tureen with three dozen shelled 
crayfish tails ; cut in slices and put in a saucepan two carrots, two 
onions, parsley and celery roots, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, three 
cloves, a handful of pepper-corns, two blades of mace, and four ounces 
of butter ; stir, and fry long enough to free the vegetables from moist- 
ure ; add the bodies of crayfish, a small bruised raw lobster, a head of 
fresh cod or of any other fish, the bones and trimmings of the eels, salt, 
three quarts of water, a pint of white wine, and the gravy from the eels ; 
set on the fire, and boil slowly for an hour ; skim the fat, strain, and 
pass the broth forcibly through a napkin ; then make a light roux with 
three ounces of butter and three ounces of flour, dilute with the broth, 
boil fifteen minutes, skim ; finish with a liaison of four egg-yolks, a cup 
of cream, two ounces of butter, and chopped parsley ; mix well, boil 
no longer, pour into the tureen, and serve. If there is no crayfish, the 
colloped tails of two small lobsters may be used instead. 

Fried Herring. — Cleanse and make incisions on both sides of a 
dozen fresh herring ; dip in milk, roll in flour, and fry pretty crisp in 
very hot lard ; drain, dish up on a folded napkin, and serve. 

Mustard Sauce. — Make an ordinary well-buttered white sauce, 
add four tablespoonfuls of prepared mustard, mix well, and serve in a 
sauce-bowl. 

Fricassee of Chicken with Salsify. — Select two fat, tender 
chickens ; draw, singe, and cut in pieces, steep in cold water for an 
hour, drain ; put in a saucepan with fresh water, salt, pepper, and nut- 
meg, and boil five minutes ; set a colander on another saucepan, turn 



558 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

the whole in, and strain ; reserve the broth, then wash the chickens in 
cold water, drain on a cloth, and pare a little ; return to a saucepan 
with four ounces of butter ; stir, and fry on a brisk fire till the butter 
turns clear ; sprinkle two ounces of flour over, mix well, dilute gradu- 
ally with the broth, boil ; add a bunch of parsley, an onion, and a 
bunch of salsify cut in three-inch lengths ; cover, and cook slowly ; re- 
move the onion and parsley, skim the fat, and finish with a liaison of 
four egg-yolks, a cup of cream, two ounces of butter, and lemon-juice ; 
mix carefully, and serve. 

Roast Racks of Mutton, Currant Jelly. — Take the two racks 
of mutton in one piece — that is, from the fifth rib to the kidney — with 
the fat attached ; pare the red skin off the surface, crack the ends of 
the ribs, truss firmly, and roast about an hour (according to size); 
salt, drain, untie, pare both ends, dish up with a ladleful of rich gravy, 
and serve with currant jelly in a glass dish. 

Custard Fritters ^ la Fleur d' Orange. — Put in a plain but- 
tered mould and steam in the usual way a custard made as follows : 
Put in a basin twelve egg-yolks and three whole eggs, two ounces of 
corn-starch, and twelve ounces of sugar ; mix well, dilute with a quart 
of hot milk and a tablespoonful of orange-flower Avater ; put on the 
fire, stir steadily till the preparation begins to thicken (otherwise the 
starch would settle in the bottom) ; pass through a strainer, put in 
the mould, and cook in boiling water to half the height of the mould ; 
when done, let cool and divide into square flat pieces of about two 
inches each ; dip them, one by one, in a light flour batter, and fry of 
a nice color in plenty of clear, very hot fat ; drain on a cloth, sprinkle 
powdered sugar over, and serve on a folded napkin. 



No. 843. 

Saturday, December 8, — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Hare, American style. 

Boiled pike with melted butter ; 
Boiled potatoes. 

Mutton pie, English style ; 
Fried celery h. la Villeroy. 

Roast turkey a la St. James ; 
Lettuce salad. 



Pain de peches au noyau. 

Hare Soup, American Style.— Skin, pare off the legs, and 
paunch two fresh-killed hares, not too sagy ; cut them in small pieces ; 
slice fine and put in a saucepan a carrot, two onions, a head of celery, 



COOKERY BOOK, 559 

and four ounces of salt pork with four ounces of butter ; put this on 
the fire, and stir to a light-brown color ; add the hare, and fry a little 
longer ; sprinkle two ounces of sifted flour over, mix well ; dilute with 
two quarts of veal-broth, two quarts of water, and a pint of catawba 
wine ; boil, add a bunch of parsley, and cook about an hour ; then with 
a skimmer and fork place the meat on a dish ; select the nicest pieces, 
and put them in a soup-tureen ; strain the soup in a colander, and put 
the vegetables, etc., in a mortar ; remove the bones, pound fine, dilute 
with the soup, and rub through a fine sieve; stir, and heat again without 
boiling ; add two ounces of butter, pour over the meat in the tureen, 
and serve. 

Boiled Pike with Melted Butter. — Procure a green-backed, 
fresh-water pike of about five pounds (the darker ones are generally 
soft and have a groundy taste) ; clean well, tie the head to the body 
with a string, put on the grate in a narrow fish-boiler with salted and 
acidulated water to cover and a bunch of parsley ; put a sheet of paper 
over, and cook slowly for half an hour ; drain, slide on a folded nap- 
kin, garnish with parsley, and serve with a melted butter sauce [No. 
259] in a sauce-bowl. 

Mutton Pie, English Style. — Select a tender, fleshy rack of 
mutton, remove the superfluous fat, and cut in rather short chops ; 
boil the trimmings with some broth, vegetables, and a few spices to 
make a rich gravy for the pie ; season with salt and pepper, and range 
the chops in a circle, one overlapping the other and the fleshy end up, 
in a deep pie-dish ; fill the centre with small round potatoes, reduce 
the broth until there is just enough to cover the meat, let cool, wet the 
edge, cover with a thin flat of feuilletage paste [No. 278], egg the sur- 
face, trace a few slight incisions, bake slowly for an hour and a half, 
and serve. 

Celery a la Villeroi. — Pare, wash, and cook eight large heads of 
celery as directed [No. 276] ; drain well, slit in halves, roll in well- 
reduced allemande sauce, and let cool ; fifteen minutes before serving 
roll them in bread-crumbs, then in beaten eggs, and in the crumbs 
again ; fry carefully and of a light-brown color, drain on a cloth, and 
serve on a folded napkin. 

Roast Turkey a la St. James. — Singe, draw, and remove the 
lights of a good-sized, tender, dry-picked turkey ; wash inside, and 
wipe dry ; pare off the gall, and chop the liver with two shallots ; stir 
these a little in a small pan on the fire to cook the liver, mingle with a 
pound of sausage meat and about three dozen chestnuts cooked whole; 
stuff the turkey with this, tie both ends, truss nicely, and roast an hour 



56o FRANCO-AMERICAN 

and a quarter ; salt a little, untie, and dish up the turkey ; add a little 
broth, strain the drippings over, and serve with a glass of cranberry 
jelly [No. 305] turned on a plate. 

Pain de Peches au Noyau. — Proceed as directed [No. 319] for 
apricots au marasquin, substituting preserved peaches for the apricots, 
and noyau liqueur for the maraschino ; serve. 



No. 343. 

Sunday, December 9. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Consomme i la MacDonald. 

Fried smelt, tomato sauce ; 
Parisian potatoes. 

Sweetbreads a la Toulouse ; 
French peas. 

Roast loin of beef, Bordelaise ; 
Lettuce and egg salad. 

Coffee ice-cream. 

Consomme a la MacDonald. — Have three quarts of good, clear 
chicken-broth [No. 310] ready to serve, and prepare the following gar- 
nishing : Peel carefully and cook in white broth two dozen very small 
white onions and the white stalks of three heads of celery cut in small 
squares ; make eight or more small, plain timbales with a cooked calf's 
brain bruised with a ladleful of allemande sauce, eight egg-yolks, two 
whole eggs, salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and rub through a fine strainer ; 
butter the timbale-moulds, fill them with the preparation, and cook in 
a sautoir with boiling water as you would cups of custard ; at serving- 
time pour the chicken-broth in a soup-tureen, add the drained onions 
and celery ; turn the timbales in a deep dish with a little broth, and 
serve with the soup, one to each person. When in season add sliced 
and cooked cucumbers. 

Fried Smelt, Tomato Sauce. — Procure three pounds of large 
unfrozen smelt ; clean, wash with a cloth, put on eight short skewers, 
thrusting them through the eyes ; roll in flour, dip in beaten eggs, and 
roll again in fresh crumbs ; fry them a half at a time in plenty of clear, 
very hot fat ; drain, salt a little, put on a folded napkin, and serve with 
a tomato sauce [No. 197] in a sauce-bowl. 

Sweetbreads a la Toulouse. — There are two kinds of veal sweet- 
breads, and house-keepers should be able to select the better — that is, the 
heart sweetbread, which is round, generally white and thick ; the irreg- 
ular and long throat sweetbread is inferior, and is mostly cut up for 



COOKERY BOOK. 561 

garnishing, croquettes, etc. Trim eight heart sweetbreads of equal size 
and steep them in cold water for three hours ; parboil in water for a 
few minutes till they are firm ; cool and press them between two tin 
sheets with a weight on top till cold ; lard the best side with small 
shreds of salt fat pork ; put them in a sautoir with sliced onions and 
carrots, a few aromatics, and pork trimmings, half covering with white 
broth ; put a buttered paper over ; heat on a quick fire and afterward 
let simmer gently in a moderate oven for forty minutes, sprinkling oc- 
casionally with the liquid to glaze of a bright yellow color ; transfer to 
another sautoir, strain, and free the gravy from its fat, reduce to a demi- 
glaze sauce, pour over the sweetbreads, and keep warm. 

Garnishing ^ la Toulouse. — Cook separately and put in a 
saucepan a pint of mushrooms, a sliced sweetbread, sliced trufiles, 
chicken quenelles, and cock's-combs ; add a pint of allemande sauce and 
heat thoroughly without boiling ; pour into a dish, range the sweet- 
breads over the sauce, garnish with heart-shaped slices of bread fried 
in butter, and serve. 

Roast Loin of Beef, Sauce Bordelaise. — Prepare and cook 
a middle-cut of loin of beef as directed [No. 268] ; dish up, pour a 
rich gravy around, and serve with a bordelaise sauce [No. 209] in a 
sauce-bowl and grated horseradish on a plate. 

Coffee Ice-Cream. — Put ten egg-yolks in a kitchen-basin with 
twelve ounces of sugar, a pint of good extract of coffee, and a pint of 
milk ; mix well, set on the fire, stir steadily with a wooden spoon until 
the preparation thickens ; then strain immediately through a fine sieve 
and stir occasionally while cooling ; add a pint of raw cream, mix well, 
and freeze in the ordinary way ; serve either moulded in a form or 
rocher-like on a folded napkin. 



No. 344. 

Monday, December 10. — Bill of fare for eight persons ; 
Soup : Cabbage, with rice. 

Baked flounder a la Bonvallet ; 
Stewed potatoes. 

Stewed rabbit, Burgundy style ; 
Baked sweet potatoes. 

Roast loin of veal, German style ; 
Lettuce and minced-ham salad. 



Compote of apples an caramel. 

Cabbage Soup with Rice. — Choose a hard savoy cabbage ; trim, 
cut in quarters, remove the core, and slice pretty fine ; put in a sauce- 



562 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

pan half a pound of salt pork cut in small, square pieces, with two 
ounces of butter and chopped onion ; set on the fire, fry slightly, add 
the cabbage, and fry a little longer ; wet with three quarts of beef- 
broth and two quarts of water ; boil half an hour ; add half a pint of rice, 
salt and pepper ; cover and boil half an hour more ; skim the fat, pour 
into a tureen, and serve. 

Baked Flounder a la Bonvallet. — Choose a flounder of about 
five pounds ; remove the head and tail, and cut the fins short ; make a 
lengthwise incision in the back, then place it, the white side uppermost, 
in a fish-pan with salt, pepper, nutmeg, chopped onion, a few bits of 
butter, a glass of white wine, and half a pint of white broth ; set on the 
fire, cover, and cook slowly ; drain well, and slide the fish on a baking- 
dish ; add more broth, and thicken the gravy with two ounces of flour 
kneaded with butter ; mix well, boil, add a liaison of three egg-yolks 
and chopped parsley ; pour this sauce over the fish, sprinkle with fresh 
bread-crumbs, and bake light brown for about four minutes in a very 
hot oven ; press lemon-juice over the fish, and serve immediately. 

Stewed Rabbit, Burgundy Style. — Remove the legs, skin, 
draw, and cut in pieces two or three young rabbits ; put in a saucepan 
four ounces of butter, with six ounces of salt pork cut small ; fry light 
brown, add the rabbit, fry a little longer, sprinkle two ounces of flour 
over, mingle well, dilute with red wine and water in equal parts, 
enough to cover the meat ; boil ; season with salt, pepper, a bunch of 
parsley, and a bruised clove of garlic ; add two dozen small onions, 
partially cooked and browned in frying butter ; cover, and let simmer 
gently until done (about forty minutes) ; remove the parsley, skim the 
fat, dish up, pour the sauce over, and serve. 

Baked Sweet Potatoes. — Pare both ends of enough red-rooted 
sweet potatoes ; wash well, and bake in a moderate oven until soft ; 
serve plain in the folds of a large napkin. 

Roast Loin of Veal, German Style.— Prepare a german stuffing 
as follows : Parboil, cool, and press the water out of two white chopped 
onions ; put in a saucepan with four ounces of butter, and fry until 
soft ; add twelve ounces of white, stale bread soaked in cold water and 
well pressed ; set on the fire, stir steadily till it assumes the consistency 
of a paste and does not stick to the stewpan ; add salt, pepper, nut- 
meg, chopped parsley, four egg-yolks, and two handfuls of boiled ham 
cut in small squares ; bone the veal, season and put the stuffing inside, 
sew the opening, roll and truss lightly, and roast of a brown color in a 
moderate oven for about two hours ; drain, pare, and put on a dish ; 
add a little broth to the drippings, skim the fat, strain them over the 
veal, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 563 

Apple Compote au Caramel. — Pare, quarter, and core a dozen 
large cooking-apples ; put them in a sautoir with four ounces of melted 
butter, twelve ounces of sugar, and a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon; 
toss and then stir them on a brisk fire until pretty stiff, without allow- 
ing to brown ; cool, put up in dome form in a large compot-dish, and 
sprinkle with powdered sugar ; brown all over with a red-hot glazing- 
iron, garnish symmetrically with cuts of currant jelly, and serve. 



No. 345. 

Tuesday, December 11. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Puree of lentils. 

Boiled salmon a la Victoria ; 
Potatoes a la duchesse. 



Beef braised a la chipolata ; 
String-beans sautes in butter. 

Red-head ducks, sauce bigarade ; 
Celery, sauce Mayonnaise. 

Galea au kiimel. 

Puree of Lentils. — Wash, and boil for two hours three pints of 
lentils with two quarts of cold water, two quarts of broth, salt, pepper, 
a bunch of parsley, four ounces of salt pork, four stalks of celery, and 
two leeks tied together, and an onion ; heat, and cook slowly ; when 
done, remove the lard and vegetables, and rub the lentils through a fine 
sieve as you would a pea soup ; return to a stev/pan, add more broth 
if required, and boil half an hour longer ; skim, and finish with three 
ounces of butter and a teaspoonful of sugar ; pour into a soup-tureen, 
and serve with small squares of bread fried in butter, either in the soup 
or separately on a plate. 

Boiled Salmon a la Victoria. — Cook in salted water acidulated 
with vinegar a piece of salmon weighing about six pounds ; season with 
pepper-corns and a highly garnished bunch of parsley, and cover with 
a sheet of paper (a sheet of paper should never be omitted in boiling 
fish, as it prevents the scum from setting on the skin, and preserves the 
natural color of the fish) ; when the fish is done, slide on a folded nap- 
kin, garnish with small lobster croquettes and parsley, and serve with 
a well-buttered lobster sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Beef Braised ^ la Chipolata. — Tie firmly a piece of beef (ribs 
or loin) weighing about ten pounds ; put in a large stewpan with four 
ounces of butter ; set on a brisk fire, and fry light brown all round ; 
drain off the fat ; add a quart of beef-broth, a pint of white wine, two 
ladlefuls of tomato sauce, sliced carrots and onions, a bunch of parsley, 



564 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

and two cloves of garlic ; cover, and let simmer gently for three hours ; 
drain, and pare the beef ; strain, and free the gravy from its fat, and 
reduce to ordinary thickness with a pint of espagnole sauce. 

Garnishing Chipolata. — Take of carrots and turnips about 
twenty pieces each, the size of a large olive ; cook separately in a little 
white broth ; cook likewise two dozen large peeled chestnuts ; fry 
slowly two walnut-sized sausages (called chipolata sausages), also a 
dozen small onions and a dozen heads of mushrooms ; drain, and mix 
these together with part of the sauce ; dish up the beef, range the 
garnishing round it, pour the rest of the sauce over, and serve. 

String-Beans Sautes in Butter. — Open two or three pint- 
cans of french string-beans, drain off the water, heat them in fresh 
water, and drain again ; put in a flat pan with four ounces of melted 
butter, salt, and pepper ; toss on a brisk fire, add chopped parsley and 
lemon-juice, mix well, and serve. 

Roast Red-Head Ducks. — Prepare and roast two red-head 
ducks as directed [No. 298] ; dish up, and serve with a bigarade sauce 
in a sauce-bowl. 

Bigarade Sauce. — With the bones of another duck and the par- 
ings of the red-heads draw an essence by boiling them with a pint of 
broth and a few aromatics ; strain, skim the fat, and put in a saucepan 
with the juice of two sour oranges, a little sugar, a pinch of red pep- 
per, and half a pint of espagnole sauce ; reduce to a demi-glaze sauce, 
and finish with the rind of the oranges cut in fine shreds. 

Gelee au Kiimel. — Clarify three pints of sweet jelly as directed 
[No. 2] ; cool partially, add a gill of kiimel liqueur, mix carefully, 
pour into a cylindrical jelly-mould previously imbedded in ice, cool 
thoroughly, and serve. 

No. 346. 

Wednesday, December 12. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Pea and brunoise. 

Stewed eel a la poulette ; 
Mashed potatoes. 

Chickens i la Montmorency ; 
Beets a la Poitevine. 



Roast leg of mutton ; 
Rabbit salad. 



Apples a la Conde. 

Pea and Brunoise Soup. — Mix two quarts of brunoise with a 
quart of pur^e of peas [Nos. 259 and 269J ; boil five minutes, skim, 



COOKERY BOOK. 565 

add a handful of small sippets of bread dried in the oven, and serve. 

Stewed Eel a la Poulette.— Skin and dress two large eels (do 
not neglect to remove the blood-vessel along the spine, for it always 
gives a rank, oily taste to the fish and the sauce) ; cut in four-inch 
lengths, steep in cold water for an hour and parboil for two minutes, 
cool and drain ; melt in a saucepan two ounces of butter with two 
ounces of flour ; fry a little, dilute with sufficent white wine and water 
in equal parts, boil ; add the eels, salt, pepper, and a bunch of parsley ; 
cook slowly until the fish is done ; with a skimmer and fork transfer 
the fish to another saucepan ; thicken the sauce with a liaison of four 
egg-yolks and two ounces of butter ; press it through a napkin over 
the fish, add chopped parsley and lemon-juice, and serve. 

Chickens a la Montmorency. — Singe, pare, and draw two well- 
fed chickens ; mix with chicken force-meat [No. 294], a salpicon made 
of sweetbreads, truffles, and mushrooms ; fill the chickens with this, tie 
both ends, truss nicely, and lard the breast with fine shreds of fat pork; 
put in a wide saucepan with sliced vegetables, a bunch of parsley, and 
a quart of white broth ; cook and glaze the larding to a nice color ; 
strain and free the gravy from its fat, and reduce with a pint of espagn- 
ole sauce ; drain, untruss, and dish up the chickens ; garnish with 
cooked and sliced sweetbreads, and two dozen heads of mushrooms ; 
pour the sauce over the garnishing, and serve. 

Beets a la Poitevine. — Boil, peel, and slice enough red beets ; fry 
a chopped onion in two ounces of butter, add an ounce of flour, and 
dilute with a pint of broth ; boil ; add the beets, salt, and pepper, and 
boil ten minutes longer ; finish with two ounces of butter and a table- 
spoonful of white-wine vinegar. 

Roast Leg of Mutton. — Cut the shank-bone and trim the 
knuckle of an eight-pound, fat leg of mutton ; beat it with the cleaver 
to break the fibres and make it more tender, and roast briskly for about 
an hour and a quarter ; dish up without thrusting any instrument in- 
side, lest the juice should escape ; pour a little rich gravy made with 
the drippings over the meat, and serve with a glass of currant jelly 
turned on a plate. 

Rabbit Salad. — Roast a young rabbit, take off all the meat, cut 
in thin slices ; put in a bowl with salt, pepper, chopped shallots and 
parsley, oil, and vinegar ; trim and wash four heads of lettuce, reserve 
the hearts, and put the leaves in a sauce-bowl ; arrange the rabbit over 
this, mask with a mayonnaise sauce ; garnish with four quartered hard- 
boiled eggs, capers, stoned olives, and the lettuce-hearts cut in quarters. 

Apples a la Conde. — Pare, quarter, and core eight large cooking- 



566 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

apples ; trim a little, and range them in a buttered sautoir ; sprinkle 
with powdered sugar, and drop a little lemon-juice and melted butter 
over ; start on a brisk fire, and cook in the oven ; dish up on a layer of 
rice, then proceed and serve as directed [No, 249] for peaches a la 
Conde. 



No. 347. 

Thursday, December 13. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Puree of vegetables, Livonian style. 

Paupiettes of fillets of weak-fish ; 
Potato croquettes a la Bechamel. 

Civet of venison ; 
Baked cauliflowers. 

Entre-cotes of beef with puff potatoes ; 
Red-cabbage salad a la Russe. 

Tourte a la frangipane. 

Puree of Vegetables, Livonian Style. — Cut in slices and put 
in a stewpan carrots, turnips, leeks, white onions, parsley and celery- 
roots, and four ounces of butter ; stir, and fry until the moisture is 
evaporated ; add a pint and a half of rice, three quarts of broth, and a 
quart of water ; cover, boil an hour, rub through a fine sieve, return to 
the stewpan, stir till nearly boiling, finish with a pint of boiling cream, 
mix with four egg-yolks, two ounces of butter, and a little sugar ; boil 
no longer, and serve with small squares of bread fried in butter. 

Paupiettes of Fillets of Weak-Fish. — Take the fillets of four 
small weak-fish ; remove the skin and most of the bones, lay them 
lengthwise on the table, spread a thin layer of fish force-meat on 
each one, roll them separately, put a skewer through to keep them in 
shape, place them, one end up, in a buttered baking-pan with a buttered 
paper over, and cook slowly in the oven ; when done, remove the 
skewers, cool, and roll in bread-crumbs, then in beaten eggs, and in 
bread-crumbs again ; fry of a light-brown color, drain, dish up on a 
folded napkin, garnish with fried parsley, and serve with a ravigote 
sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Potato Croquettes a la Bechamel. — Roast a dozen large 
potatoes, break them open ; take the pulp, and pound to a paste with 
two ounces of butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg, four egg-yolks, an egg, and 
a cup of cream ; rub through a colander, put in a saucepan, stir, and 
cook three minutes ; cool, divide in pieces the size of a large cork, dip 
in beaten eggs, and roll in pulverized crackers ; fry nicely, and serve 
on a folded napkin. 



COOKERY BOOK. 567 

Civet of Venison. — Cut three pounds of venison in medium-sized 
pieces ; cut also half a pound of salt pork, and put in a saucepan with 
four ounces of butter ; stir, and fry light brown ; put in the veni- 
son, and fry a little longer ; besprinkle with two ounces of flour, mix, 
dilute with a pint of claret and light broth enough to cover ; add salt, 
pepper, and a bunch of parsley ; cover, and stew slowly for half an 
hour ; add a dozen small onions lightly browned in butter and a pint 
of mushrooms ; stew for half an hour longer, skim the fat, remove the 
parsley, dish up, and serve. 

Entre-Cotes of Beef with Puff Potatoes. — Procure two tender 
entre-cotes ; pare, flatten, season with salt and pepper, baste with oil, 
and broil rather rare ; put on a dish with a cold maitre d' hotel sauce, 
surround with a border of large fried puff potatoes [No. 87], and serve. 

Red-Cabbage Salad a la Russe. — Cut a red cabbage in fine 
shreds, parboil three minutes, cool, drain on a cloth, and put in a basin 
with salt and tarragon vinegar ; make a dressing as follows : Put in a 
salad-bowl the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs, mash with a spoon, sea- 
son with pepper and a little more vinegar ; add half a pint of thick 
cream, chopped chervil, and parsley ; drain and put the cabbage over 
this, mix well, and serve. 

Tourte a la Frangipane. — Put in a saucepan four egg-yolks, 
four ounces of flour, a pint of milk, four ounces of sugar, and two 
ounces of butter ; mix well, stir steadily, and boil five minutes ; turn 
into a basin, and let cool ; then add two ounces of chopped almonds 
and a tablespoonful of orange-flower water ; this should have the con- 
sistency of a thick batter; put a thin flat of feuilletage paste on a round 
baking-sheet, wet the edge, lay on it a rim of the same paste an inch 
and a half wide and a third of an inch thick, pour the frangipane in the 
centre, egg the rim, make a few small cuts round it, bake thoroughly, 
sprinkle powdered sugar over, glaze the paste of a bright color, and 
serve either hot or cold. 

No. 348. 

Friday, December 14. — Bill of fare for eight persons ; 
Soup : Bisque of crabs. 

Striped bass, American style ; 
Fried potato balls. 

Grenadins of veal with chiccory; 
Hulled sweet corn. 



Roast brant-ducks ; 
Celery salad. 

Omelet with preserves. 



568 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Bisque of Crabs. — Boil a dozen large hard-shell crabs in salted 
water for three minutes ; drain, open, remove the gills (which are gen- 
erally sandy), wash, and cut them in pieces ; slice a carrot, two 
onions, a head of celery, and four ounces of salted pork ; put in a 
stewpan with four ounces of butter, and fry till lightly browned ; add 
the crabs, a bunch of parsley, salt, white and red pepper, a quart of 
veal-broth, and a pint of white wine ; cover, and boil an hour ; mean- 
while cook in another stewpan for an hour a pint and a half of rice 
with two quarts of broth, stirring occasionally ; drain the crabs in a 
colander, save the gravy, remove the parsley, pound very fine, add the 
rice, pound again, dilute with the gravy of the crabs and more broth if 
required, rub through a fine sieve, and return to a stewpan ; stir till 
nearly boiling, finish with three ounces of butter and a glass "of sherry 
wine, and serve with small squares of bread fried in butter. 

Striped Bass, American Style. — Cleanse a six-pound bass, wash 
well and wipe dry ; then, with the point of a sharp knife, carefully re- 
move about the half of the spine without injuring the outside of the 
fish ; cook half a dozen oysters with a pint of scollops, strain and 
thicken a little of the liquor with an ounce of flour kneaded in butter, 
add two egg-yolks and lemon-juice, return the oysters and scollops to 
this sauce, cool ; fill the bass with this preparation, sew the opening, 
tie the fish round the body ; place it on the grate in a narrow fish- 
boiler with a pint of white wine, a pint of water, a sliced onion, a 
bunch of parsley, a little salt, small bits of butter, and a but- 
tered paper over ; cover, boil on a slow fire, and let simmer gently for 
an hour ; drain the fish, but leave it on the grate ; strain and free 
the gravy of its fat, thicken with two ounces of flour mixed with but- 
ter, boil five minutes; finish with a liaison of four egg-yolks, four ounces 
of butter, lemon-juice, and chopped parsley ; mix well, and boil no 
longer ; slide the fish on a dish, remove the strings, pour part of the 
sauce over it, garnish with fried oysters and scollops at both ends, 
and serve with the rest of the sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Grenadins of Veal with Chiccory. — Cut from a noix of veal 
eight or more slices about three inches wide, four long, and one thick ; 
pare, lard, and cook as directed for veal sweetbread [No. 343] ; serve 
with a garnishing of mashed chiccory [No. 252]. 

Hulled Sweet Corn. — Open two cans of hulled corn ; turn it in 
a saucepan with a little salt, two ounces of butter, and half a pint of 
milk ; boil a minute, and serve. 

Roast Brant-Ducks. — Singe, draw, and truss two or more brant- 
ducks ; roast and serve as directed [No. 332] for red-head ducks, with 
some currant jelly in a glass dish. 



COOKERY BOOK. 569 

Omelet with Preserves. — Break in a kitchen-basin a dozen 
eggs, with two tablespoonfuls of fine sugar ; beat well ; melt three 
ounces of butter in a large omelet-pan, add the eggs, and cook as you 
would an ordinary omelet ; when it is well set, garnish inside with 
four tablespoonfuls of currant jelly, fold in, turn in a dish, shaping 
nicely ; sprinkle fine sugar over, glaze with a red-hot iron, and serve. 



No. 349. 

Saturday, December 15. — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup : Puree a la Conde'. 

Boiled eels a la Ste. Catherine ; 
Hashed potatoes witli cream. 

Ribs of beef with small patties ; 
Cauliflowers in marinade. 



Roast hare, sauce poivrade ; 
Vegetable salad. 

Omelet soufflee, lemon flavor. 

Puree §, la Conde. — Wash a quart of red beans and put them in 
a stewpan with half a pound of raw ham, a bunch of parsley, two leeks 
and a head of celery tied together, a quart of broth, and two quarts of 
rain-water (if possible) ; set on the fire, heat slowly, and after boiling 
skim well ; add a little salt, pepper, and two ounces of butter ; cover, 
and let simmer gently for about three hours ; when done, remove the 
ham and vegetables, rub through a fine sieve (using a wooden presser), 
return to the stewpan, and add more broth if required ; boil, skim 
again, finish with three ounces of butter and a teaspoonful of sugar, 
and serve with small squares of bread fried in clarified butter. 

Boiled Eels a la Ste. Catherine. — Skin two large fresh-water 
eels ; cleanse, wash, and wipe dry ; cut in five-inch lengths ; put in a 
stewpan with salt, pepper-corns, a bunch of parsley, a gill of vinegar, 
and water enough to cover ; boil slowly, and cook twenty minutes ; 
drain, range on a folded napkin, garnish with parsley-leaves, and serve 
with a fine-herb sauce [No. 307] in a sauce-bowl. 

Hashed Potatoes with Cream. — Peel and chop fine some cold 
boiled potatoes ; put them in a saucepan with salt, white pepper, three 
ounces of butter, and a pint of cream ; boil slowly for five minutes, 
stir, mix well with a wooden spoon, and serve. 

Ribs of Beef with Small Patties. — Trim and shorten the 
bones of a two-rib piece of beef weighing about ten pounds ; tie firmly 
to keep in shape, put in a stewpan with butter, fry brown all round, 
and drain the butter off ; garnish with two carrots, two onions, and a 



570 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

bunch of parsley ; add a little salt, a pint of white wine, and a quart 
of broth ; cover, and boil slowly for about three hours ; drain, and 
pare the beef ; strain, and free the gravy from its fat, and reduce with 
a pint of espagnole sauce (if you have no espagnole sauce, make a 
brown roux with an ounce of butter and an ounce of flour, and dilute 
with the beef gravy) ; have a dozen small patties (bouchees) au salpi- 
con, made with feuilletage paste [No. 333] ; dish up the beef, surround 
with the patties, pour a little of the sauce over, and serve with the rest 
in a sauce-bowl. 

Cauliflowers in Marinade.— Boil two heads of cauliflowers in 
salted water with a little butter ; drain, part them in rather large 
flowerets ; put in a large bowl with salt, pepper, a little vinegar, and oil, 
to steep for an hour ; dip them in a light flour batter [No. 5], mixed with 
beaten eggs and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, fry a light-brown 
color, and serve on a folded napkin with a garnishing of fried parsley. 

Roast Hare, Sauce Poivrade.— Pare off the legs, skin, paunch, 
dress, lard, pickle, and roast an english or two Canadian hares as 
directed [No. 28] ; dish up, pour a little poivrade sauce [No. 314] 
round them, and serve with more sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Omelet Soufilee, Lemon Flavor. — Prepare and cook an omelet 
as directed [No. 267], substituting the rind of a lemon chopped very 
fine with a tablespoonful of sugar, for the orange-flower water. 



No. 350. 

Sunday, December 16. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Turkey-wing, New York style. 

Cod and potatoes a la St. John, - 

Vermont turkey, oyster sauce ; 
Broiled sweet potatoes. 

Mutton chops a la Soyer ; 
Celery and cold-slaw salad. 

Pyramid of rice and strawberry ice-cream. 

Turkey-Wing- Soup, New York Style. — Procure the wings of 
four turkeys ; trim the small ends, cut each wing in five pieces, put in 
a stewpan with two ounces of butter, stir and fry till the butter is clear 
and the meat lightly browned ; drain off the butter ; add two quarts 
of beef-broth, three pints of water, salt, pepper, and a bunch of 
parsley ; garnish with small, penny-shaped cut carrots and turnips, 
the white stalks of two heads of celery cut in small squares, and a 
dozen and a half small white onions lightly sugared and browned 



COOKERY BOOK. 571 

in butter ; boll about forty minutes, by which time all the ingredients 
ought to be done ; remove the parsley, skim off the fat, taste, and serve. 

Cod and Potatoes a la St. John (Newfoundland fashion). — 
Have two medium-sized very fresh cod ; remove the heads, tails, fins, 
and intestines ; save the sounds, tongues, and livers ; cut each cod in 
four pieces, boil them on a grate in a fish-boiler with the sounds 
and tongues in salted water ; this done, drain on the grate and keep 
warm ; boil the livers in salted water highly acidulated with vinegar 
to take away most of the oily taste and odor ; dress the fish high 
in a large dish, range round it some thick slices of fresh-boiled and 
peeled potatoes ; season with salt, pepper, and chopped parsley ; 
pour half a pound of melted but not boiled butter over, and send 
to table ; serve the livers separately on a folded napkin and garnished 
with parsley. 

Vermont Turkey, Oyster Sauce. — Dress and put the turkey 
in a not too large stewpan with salt, two carrots, an onion, a bunch 
of parsley, two leeks and two stalks of celery tied together, and 
water enough to cover ; set on the fire, boil, skim well, and cook 
slowly till the turkey is done ; drain it in another saucepan, cover, 
and keep warm ; at the same time cook about three dozen good-sized 
oysters with a pint of turkey-broth and two ounces of butter ; then 
strain enough oyster liquor and turkey-broth and make a quart of 
allemande sauce [No. 265] ; place the turkey on a large oval dish ; 
put the oysters in the sauce with white and a pinch of red pepper, 
lemon-juice, and chopped parsley ; pour some over and round the 
turkey, and send to table with the rest in a sauce-bowl. 

Mutton Chops a la Soyer. — Cut four or more large and thick 
mutton chops from across the saddle ; remove the spine without 
parting the chops, flatten pretty heavily, pare off the superfluous fat, 
season with salt and pepper, sprinkle with fresh bread-crumbs, and 
broil rare over a bright but moderate charcoal fire ; range on a dish, 
add a ladleful of rich gravy, and serve with currant jelly on a glass dish. 

Pyramid of Rice and Strawberry Ice-Cream. — Prepare a 
quart each of rice and strawberry ice-cream [Nos. 70 and 126] ; imbed 
a two-quart pyramid-mould in ice ; fill perpendicularly by halves with 
each preparation, and cover hermetically ; bury in a large pail of salted 
ice for at least three hours, and serve on a folded napkin. (As there 
are no fresh strawberries at this time of year, use a pint of preserved 
juice instead.) 



572 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 351. 

Monday, December 17. — Bill of fare for eight persons 

Soup : Chicken-broth a la Britannia. 

Baked frost-fish ; 
Potatoes a la Colbert. 



Breast of mutton, sauce piquante ; 
Mashed turnips. 

Roast goose a 1' orange ; 
Onion and cauliflower salad. 



Cream tart meringued. 

Chicken-Broth a la Britannia. — Prepare three quarts of strong 
chicken-broth [No. 310] ; butter a plain timbale-mould, spread on the 
bottom half an inch of cream chicken force-meat [No. 326] lightly 
reddened with lobster-coral ; then spread another half-inch of the 
same force-meat not colored ; put the mould in a saucepan with 
a little boiling water, cover, and steam slowly about fifteen minutes, 
until well set ; cool, turn carefully on a wet cloth, cut perpendicularly 
in small pieces, put in a soup-tureen with a garnishing of vegetables 
[printanier, No. 251], pour the broth over, and serve. 

Baked Frost-Fish. — Cleanse, wash, and wipe dry a dozen or 
more large frost-fish ; butter a baking-dish, and strew in the centre 
some chopped mushrooms, onions, and parsley ; range the fish closely 
over this, strew with more chopped mushrooms, etc.; mask the fish 
with three ladlefuls of espagnole sauce, sprinkle with bread-crumbs, 
put small bits of butter on top, and bake of a nice color in a pretty 
hot oven for about twenty minutes ; press the juice of a lemon over, 
and serve in the baking-dish. 

Breast of Mutton, Sauce Piquante. — Select two fleshy and 
not tod fat breasts of mutton ; tie them together, and boil in the 
stock-pot or in a stewpan with a garnishing of vegetables, aro- 
matics, and a little salt ; this done, remove the bones, pare, season 
with salt and pepper, roll in melted butter and fine, fresh white- 
bread crumbs ; place them on a gridiron, and boil slowly and of a 
light-brown color ; dish up, pour a piquante sauce round the mutton, 
and garnish the edge of the dish with sliced gherkins. 

Piquante Sauce. — Put in a saucepan, an ounce of butter, a gill of 
vinegar, a chopped onion, and a pinch of pepper ; boil and reduce one 
half ; add a pint of espagnole sauce, boil a few minutes, skim, and finish 
with chopped gherkins, capers, and parsley. If there is no espagnole 
sauce on hand, thicken some gravy as follows : 

Thick gravy, quickly made, and a good substitute for espagnole 



COOKERY BOOK. 573 

sauce. — Melt two ounces of butter in a saucepan, add two ounces 
of flour ; stir on a slow fire with a wooden spoon until light brown ; 
let cool a minute, dilute with a quart of strong broth, and boil ten 
minutes. 

Roast Goose a 1' Orange. — Dress a fat, tender goose ; remove 
the gall, and chop the liver with a shallot and little sage ; cook a 
little, and mix with poultry stuffing [No. ^-^ ; stuff the goose, tie 
both ends closely, and roast for an hour and a quarter ; untruss, 
dish up, and pour a little rich gravy over ; make a border of pared and 
sliced oranges on the edge of the dish, and serve with an orange 
sauce [No. 75], in a sauce-bowl. 

Cream Tart Meringued. — Make a short paste with a pound 
of flour, six ounces of butter, a little salt, and a glass of water ; mix 
and knead well with the palms of the hands ; wrap in a napkin, 
and let rest an hour ; put a buttered tart-circle (ring), about ten 
inches wide and an inch and a half high, on a buttered baking-sheet; 
flatten enough paste to about the sixth of an inch ; place in the 
circle, press to make it stick, and trim off the superfluous paste ; put 
an inch of frangipane [No. 347] inside, and bake in a moderate oven ; 
let cool, remove the circle, mask and ornament the tart with meringue 
[No. 337] ; sprinkle powdered sugar over the tart, and cook for half 
an hour, to a light-brown color, in a very moderate oven. 



No. 352. 

Tuesday, December iS. — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup : Puree of lobster with rice. 

Flounders a la Proven9ale ; 
Timbale of potatoes. 

Loin of veal a la Macedoine ; 
Boiled Portuguese onions. 

Roast quail, currant sauce ; 
E55 and lettuce salad. 



Gelee au Curapoa. 

Puree of Lobster with Rice. — Boil two medium-sized lobsters ; 
save the meat of the claws, break open, remove the stony pouch and 
intestines ; put in a mortar, meat, shells, and all, and pound till very 
fine ; put in a stewpan four ounces of butter, with a carrot, two onions, 
two stalks of celery, and two ounces of salt pork, all sliced fine ; stir, 
and fry until the moisture is evaporated and the butter turns clear ; put 
in four ounces of flour, mix well ; add four quarts of veal-broth, a gill 



574 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

of sherry wine, white and red pepper, nutmeg, and a bunch of parsley, 
and stir till it boils ; then add the pounded lobster, cover, and boil 
gently for an hour ; remove the parsley, rub through a very fine sieve, 
return to a stewpan, and boil again, stirring steadily ; skim the froth, 
finish with three ounces of butter in small bits, pour into a soup-tureen, 
add the meat of the claws cut in small squares and a pint of rice boiled 
in broth, and serve. 

Flounders a la Provengale. — Cleanse two medium-sized plump 
flounders ; cut off the head, tail, and fins close ; wash, and wipe dry ; 
put in a hollow dish for four hours with salt, pepper, lemon-juice, sweet 
oil, sliced onions, parsley, thyme, two bay-leaves, and three bruised 
cloves of garlic ; turn the fish frequently, rubbing in the seasoning ; an 
hour before serving place the flounders in a large oiled baking-dish 
with the seasoning, a pint of white wine and broth in equal parts, a few 
bits of butter, and a buttered paper over all ; start on a slow fire, and 
cook in a moderate oven for half an hour, sprinkling the fish frequently 
with the liquid ; when done, drain the fish, strain and free the liquid 
from its fat ; add a little more broth, thicken with two ounces of flour 
kneaded with butter, boil, skim ; finish with a liaison of four egg-yolks, 
lemon-juice, chopped parsley, and a pinch of red pepper ; dish up the 
fish, pour part of the sauce over it, and serve the rest in a sauce-bowl. 

Loin of Veal a la Macedoine. — Remove the spine of a fat white 
loin of veal ; tie firmly ; put in a sautoir with sliced vegetables, aro- 
matics, salt, pepper, a quart of broth and white wine in equal parts, a 
few bits of butter on top, and a buttered paper over ; cook about two 
hours in a moderate oven, sprinkling the veal frequently with the gravy 
in order to obtain a clear, brown, glazed surface ; then drain and pare 
the veal ; strain and free the gravy from its fat, and reduce to a demi- 
glaze sauce. 

Garnishing d, la Macedoine. — Prepare in a saucepan a garnish- 
ing of cooked vegetables, such as carrots and turnips scooped in small 
round pieces, peas, and string-beans ; season with salt, pepper, and 
nutmeg ; add a pint of well-buttered bechamel sauce and a little sugar, 
and mix well ; dish up the veal, put the garnishing round it, add a 
small cauliflower at each side, pour the reduced gravy over the veal, 
and serve. 

Roast Quail, Currant Sauce. — Pick, draw, and truss eight quail; 
cover the breast with thin slices of fat pork, roast, untruss, and dress 
them on pieces of dry toast; pour the strained drippings over the birds, 
and serve with a currant sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Currant Sauce. — Put in a small saucepan a pint of espagnole 



COOKERY BOOK. 575 

sauce, a glass of port wine, and two tablespoonfuls of stirred currant 
jelly ; boil five minutes, press through a napkin, add four ounces of 
currants previously picked and steeped in hot water, and boil two min- 
utes longer, 

Gelee au Curagoa. — Prepare three pints of sweet jelly as directed 
[No. 2] ; give a slight orange tint with a few drops of prepared cochi- 
neal, cool partially, add a gill of curag;oa liqueur, pour into a jelly- 
mould, cool thoroughly, and serve. 



No. 353. 

Wednesday, December 19. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Veal, Indian style. 

Broiled perch, maitre d' hotel ; 
Potatoes, Bordelaise. 

Boiled chicken with rice ; 
Spinach with cream. 

Round of venison a la St. Hubert 
Beet and doucette salad. 

Bavarois au cafe. 

Veal Soup, Indian Style. — Cut two pounds of lean of veal in 
squares, using the bones and parings to make the veal-broth [No. 
298] ; put in a stewpan with four ounces of butter and four ounces 
of lean ham, also cut in squares ; stir, and fry till the veal is slightly 
browned ; sprinkle with three ounces of flour and two tablespoonfuls 
of curry-powder ; dilute with three quarts of veal-broth ; add a bunch 
of parsley, two leeks and stalks of celery also tied up, and the rind of 
a lemon ; boil, skim, cover, and cook gently for an hour ; remove the 
bunches of vegetables and lemon-peel, and with a fork and skimmer 
transfer the veal and ham to another stewpan ; pass the soup through 
a fine strainer over the meat, boil a minute longer, and serve with 
plain-boiled rice separately on a dish. 

Broiled Perch a la Maitre d' H6tel.— Take eigh-t medium- 
sized perch weighing about half a pound each ; scale, and clean 
nicely, cut slight incisions on each side, season with salt and pepper, 
baste with oil, and broil over a brisk charcoal fire ; range on a dish, 
mask with a partly melted maitre d' hotel sauce, garnish with quar- 
tered lemon, and serve. 

Boiled Chicken with Rice. — Singe and draw two well-fed, 
plump, and fat chickens (inferior poultry should not be used for this) ; 
truss nicely ; put in a stewpan with two quarts of water, salt, pepper, 



576 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

nutmeg, a bunch of parsley, a carrot, an onion, two leeks, and a head 
of celery ; boil, skim, cover, and cook slowly ; wash a pint and a half 
of rice, put it in a saucepan with three pints of strained chicken-broth, 
boil, and let simmer for twenty minutes ; add salt, pepper, and two 
ounces of butter, and mix carefully with a wooden spoon so as not to 
break the rice ; untruss, and put the chickens on a dish ; flank and 
cover with rice, shaping nicely, and serve with a bowl of allemande 
sauce made with part of the broth. 

Round of Venison a la St. Hubert. — Procure a round piece 
(about eight pounds) cut from a large leg of venison ; lard across with 
rather large shreds of salt pork ; put in a stewpan with four ounces of 
butter, fry pretty firm all round ; then add a bottle of claret wine, 
three pints of espagnole sauce, pepper, a piece of cinnamon bark, a 
tablespoonful of sugar, and a bunch of parsley ; heat slowly, skim 
well, cover, and boil very gently for two hours ; add about fifty good 
imported french prunes, boil half an hour longer ; dish up the meat, 
remove the parsley and cinnamon, and skim off the fat ; garnish with 
the prunes, pour the sauce over all, and serve, 

Bavarois au Cafe. — Put four ounces of fresh-roasted coffee in a 
pint and a half of boiling milk, cover, and let infuse an hour ; put 
eight egg-yolks in a basin with half a pound of sugar, work well, and 
dilute with the strained infusion ; stir on the fire until the preparation 
thickens, add an ounce of well-drained gelatine previously steeped in 
cold water, and dissolve it by stirring briskly with a dressing-spoon ; 
pass through a fine strainer ; put on ice, and stir steadily until it begins 
to congeal ; then mix with the same quantity of well-whipt cream [No. 
77] ; fill a large fancy mould, cool thoroughly, and serve. 



No. 354. 

Thursday, December, 20. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Spaghetti au Parmesan. 

Fillets of sole a 1' Italienne ; 
Potatoes, maltre d' hotel. 

Timbale of sweetbread, Parisienne : 

String-beans sautes. 

Roast goose k la Mount Vernon ; 
Celery in glass. 

Croquembouche d' oranges. 

Spaghetti au Parmesan.— Boil eight ounces of spaghetti in salted 
water for fifteen minutes ; drain, and cut in inch-long pieces ; put in a 



COOKERY BOOK. 577 

saucepan with three quarts of beef-broth, boil ten minutes longer, and 
serve with grated parmesan cheese separately on a plate. 

Fillets of Sole a 1' Italienne. — Pare the fillets of two large 
flounders ; fold in two, flatten a little, range in a buttered sautoir, with 
salt, pepper, chopped onion, and a glass of white wine ; cook ten min- 
utes and drain carefully ; reduce the gravy with four tablespoonfuls of 
chopped mushrooms and a pint of espagnole sauce, and finish with 
two ounces of butter, chopped parsley, and lemon-juice ; dish up in 
a circle, pour the sauce over, and serve. 

Potatoes a la Maitre d' Hotel. — Boil some potatoes in their 
"jackets" ; drain, cool, peel, and slice'; put in a saucepan with salt, 
pepper, nutmeg, an ounce of butter, and a pint of water, and boil five 
minutes ; add four ounces of butter in small bits and chopped parsley, 
mix well by tossing in the saucepan till the preparation thickens, and 
serve. 

Timbale of Sweetbread a la Parisienne. — Prepare a pound 
and a half of chicken force-meat [No. 294] ; butter a plain dome- 
shaped timbale-mould, ornament with fancy cuts of truffles and beef- 
tongue sliced fine, and line with three fourths of an inch of force- 
meat ; steep well, parboil, and cut in slices four veal sweetbreads; put 
in a sautoir with three ounces of butter, salt, and pepper; fry a little, 
add a glass of white wine, boil till nearly evaporated, add again half a 
pint of allemande sauce and a dozen mushrooms ; cool a little, then 
nearly fill the mould, and put in another layer of force-meat to close 
the opening ; put a buttered paper over, cover hermetically, place in a 
saucepan with boiling water to half the height of the mould, cover, and 
let simmer very gently at the side of the fire or in a moderate oven for 
fully two hours ; fifteen minutes before serving, uncover and invert 
on a dish ; let rest a while, remove the mould carefully, pour a little 
allemande sauce round the timbale, and serve. 

Roast Goose ^ la Mount Vernon. — Dress a young fat goose ; 
chop fine, press the water out, and fry slightly two onions with a little 
butter; mix with sufficient thick mashed potatoes, and stuff the goose 
with this ; sew both ends, truss, and roast an hour and a half ; pare, 
core, and cut a dozen large apples in halves, range in a large frying- 
pan with a little goose-grease and powdered sugar, and bake light 
brown ; dish up the goose, range the apples border-like round it, pour 
a ladleful of rich gravy over, and serve. 

Croquembouche of Oranges. — Peel, divide, and pare the quar- 
ters of six large oranges ; put a pound and a half of loaf-sugar in a 
copper basin with half a pint of water ; boil, skim, and reduce until 



5/8 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

the sugar is at 310 degrees Fahrenheit — that is, when a small bit dipped 
in cold water breaks with a sharp click ; then place it by the side of 
the fire, and be careful not to let it brown ; dip one by one the quar- 
ters of orange in the sugar, and line symmetrically a slightly oiled 
plain timbale-mould, commencing at the bottom ; let cool, turn on 
a folded napkin, add a few more quarters of orange, and some grapes 
and candied fruits also dipped in sugar, making an elegant group on 
top ; keep in a dry place until the moment of serving. 



No. 355. 

Friday, December 21. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Cream of rice. 

Pike a la Ni^oise ; 
Broiled potatoes. 

Ribs of beef, sauce Robert ; 
Puree of red beans. 

Partridge a la Chartraine ; 
Escarole salad. 

Marmalade of peaches. 

Cream of Rice. — Wash and put a pound of , rice in a saucepan 
with salt, nutmeg, and two quarts of veal-broth ; cover, and cook an 
hour ; pound to a pulp, dilute with boiled cream, and rub through a 
fine sieve ; stir and heat without boiling, finish with two ounces of 
butter, and a teaspoonful of sugar, and serve with small squares of 
bread fried in butter. 

Pike a la Ni^oise. — Cut a large pike in about eight pieces, and 
cook the head and tail in a little oil, salt, and a glass of water in a 
moderate oven ; put the steaks in a deep dish with oil, salt, pepper, 
a sliced onion, lemon-juice, parsley, and aromatics for about two 
hours ; drain, roll in fresh crumbs, and broil slowly ; dish up, and 
with the head and tail reconstruct the fish ; pour a ravigote sauce 
[No. 256] over, and serve. 

Broiled Potatoes. — Peel some cold boiled potatoes ; cut in 
thick slices, season with salt and pepper, dip in butter, broil nicely, 
and serve with a little melted butter. 

Ribs of Beef, Sauce Robert. — Take a thick two-rib piece of 
beef ; saw off the spine, shorten the bones, truss firmly, put in a stew- 
pan with four ounces of beef-grease, set on a brisk fire, and fry light 
brown all round ; drain the grease ; add a pint of white wine, a quart 
of water, salt, a bunch of parsley, a carrot, two onions, and a pint of 



COOKERY BOOK, S79 

tomato either plain or in sauce ; cover and stew slowly for three 
hours ; drain the beef ; strain and free the gravy from its fat, and re- 
duce to a demi-glaze sauce ; pare and dish up the beef, pour some of 
the gravy over it and a Robert sauce round it, and serve. 

Robert Sauce. — Chop two onions ; put them in a saucepan with 
two ounces of butter, fry brown, add a pint of espagnole sauce, a little 
gravy and vinegar, and four tablespoonfuls of prepared mustard ; 
mix well, boil, strain, and finish with two ounces of butter and chop- 
ped parsley. 

Puree of Red Beans. — Cook a quart of red beans as directed 
[No. 349], and make a thick purde ; finish with two ounces of butter, 
dish up, and surround with triangular slices of bread fried in butter. 

Partridges a la Chartraine.— Dress three fat and very fresh 
partridges ; cut in small squares a few truffles and fat livers, mix 
with sufficient cooked force-meat [No. 314], and stuff the partridges ; 
truss, tie a bard of lard on the breast and cook in a saucepan with 
two ounces of butter, a bunch of parsley, and a gill of madeira wine; 
this done and the partridge lightly browned, untruss and dish up 
with a garnishing of sliced truffles and fat livers ; drain off the fat, 
put a pint of espagnole sauce in the saucepan, boil a few minutes; 
strain, pour this over the partridge and garnishing, and serve. 

Marmalade of Peaches. — Peach marmalade is made in the 
peach season for winter use, so in anticipation we give the following 
recipe : Pare, remove the pits, and weigh eight pounds of peach pulp; 
put it in a copper basin, bruise and stir on the fire with a wooden 
spatula until melted ; add six pounds of crushed loaf-sugar, and stir 
steadily for about fifteen minutes longer ; when the marmalade becomes 
sticky it is done ; put it in glasses, let cool, put thin round papers dipped 
in brandy over, cover with tin-foil or a layer of paper wetted near 
the edge with mucilage, and keep in a cool closet for winter use. 

Canned peaches may also be used for making marmalade in this 
way. 

No. 356. 

Saturday, December 22. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Puchero (Spanish pot-au-feu). 

Chicken saute k la Bechamel ; 
Fried parsnips. 

Dame of salmon au bleu ; 
Potato salad. 



Limes with rice. 



58o FRANCO-AMERICAN 

PuChero Soup. — Put in an earthen soup-pot eight quarts of 
water, two pounds of round of beef, and a pint of garbancos (chick 
peas) previously steeped in salted water for twelve hours ; boil on a 
moderate fire, skim ; add half a pound of pork, half a pound of ham, 
a little salt and pepper, two leeks, and a head of celery tied in a bunch 
with parsley, a sprig of mint, three cloves, and two cloves of garlic ; 
cover, boil slowly for three hours ; add a good-sized choriso, a small 
head of savoy cabbage cut in quarters, and a good-sized piece of 
pumpkin freed from rind and seeds ; boil an hour longer, toast and 
put some thin slices of bread in a soup-tureen, skim the fat, strain the 
broth over the bread, and cover the tureen ; remove the parsley, celery, 
etc. ; dish up the peas and cabbage with the beef, ham, choriso, and 
pork, and serve with the soup. 

This dish is given chiefly to intimate its existence ; but, like the 
elder Dumas in his criticism on Spanish cookery, we do not recom- 
mend it unreservedly. The choriso is a large, smoked, and highly sea- 
soned saveloy much esteemed by Spaniards. 

Chicken Saute si la Bechamel. — Dress and cut two tender 
chickens each in eight pieces ; put in a sautoir with four ounces of 
butter, fry slowly until lightly colored, and drain off the butter ; put in 
half a pint of white wine, salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; reduce till mostly 
evaporated ; add a quart of bechamel sauce, a little white broth, and 
boil slowly fifteen minutes more ; dish in pyramid form ; press the 
sauce through a napkin ; finish with two ounces of butter, a few drops 
of lemon-juice, and chopped parsley ; pour this over the chicken, gar- 
nish with heart-shaped slices of bread fried in butter, and serve. 

Fried Parsnips. — Peel and boil some parsnips in salted water 
with a little flour and butter ; then cool, Avipe dry, divide in two or 
more pieces, dip in a flour batter, and fry light brown in plenty of hot 
lard ; sprinkle a little salt over, and serve on a folded napkin with fried 
parsley. 

Darne of Salmon au Bleu (in France, when a regular dish 
accompanies the soup, a cold or fried fish is usually served as a roast). 
— The day before it is needed cook slowly a six-pound piece of salmon 
in a court-bouillon made of red wine and water in equal parts, salt, 
pepper-corns, a sliced onion, and a bunch of parsley ; let cool in the 
liquid, and at dinner-time drain, place on a folded napkin with a bor- 
der of fresh parsley, and serve with a vinaigrette sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Vinaigrette Sauce. — Put in a large bowl salt, pepper, chopped 
shallots and parsley, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and half a pint of 
sweet oil ; beat well with a small wire whip, and serve immediately. 



COOKERY BOOK. 581 

Limes with Rice. — Cook a pint of rice with a quart of milk, two 
ounces of butter, four ounces of sugar, and rind of a lemon ; boil thirty 
minutes, remove the lemon, and mix well with a wooden spoon ; when 
a little cooled place the rice in the centre of a dish, flatten the top, and 
range upon it about a dozen preserved limes ; warm in a low oven, 
reduce the lime syrup with a wineglassful of kirschwasser, pour it 
over the limes, and serve. The limes may advantageously be gar- 
nished with almonds, candied cherries, citron, etc. 



No. 357. 

Sunday, December 23. — Bill of fare for eight persons 
Soup : Consomme a TAndalouse. 

Stewed eels a la Cauchoise ; 

Potato balls a la Rouennaise, 

Turkey a la Godard ; 
French peas. 

Porterhouse steaks, horseradish sauce ; 
Lettuce and beet salad. 



Pudding a la Nesselrode. 

Consomme a I'Andalouse. — Prepare three quarts of consomme 
[No. 133] ; make eight small soup-timbales with a pint of tomato sauce, 
twelve egg-yolks and two eggs, and cook as directed [No. 343] ; pre- 
pare also a garnishing of vegetables — carrots, turnips, celery-roots, and 
small white onions, all cut in thin round slices, half an inch wide ; pour 
the consomme in a soup-tureen, drop the vegetables into it, turn the 
timbales in a hollow dish with a little consomme, and serve with the 
soup, one to each person. 

Stewed Eels ^ la Cauchoise. — Skin two large eels, cleanse, 
wipe dry, cut in five-inch lengths, and put in a saucepan with a sliced 
carrot, an onion, a bunch of parsley, two cloves of garlic, a little salt, 
and some pepper-corns ; put in enough cider to cover the fish, and 
boil slowly for fifteen minutes ; make a brown roux with two ounces 
of butter and two ounces of flour, dilute with the strained gravy, and 
finish with two ounces of butter ; drain and dish up the eels, surround 
with two dozen slightly browned and glazed medium-sized onions, pour 
the sauce over all, garnish with heart-shaped slices of bread fried in 
butter, and serve. 

Turkey a la Godard. — Singe a good-sized, tender, dry-picked 
turkey-hen, and draw it very carefully ; remove the lights, wash in- 
side, wipe dry ; then partly fill with cooked chicken force-meat [No. 



582 FRANCO-AMERICA]^ 

314], mixed with sweetbread and mushrooms cut in small squares ; 
truss well to give a nice appearance ; tie closely at both ends ; stiffen 
the breast on a coal fire for a minute or so, in order to facilitate larding 
easily ; lard it with fine square shreds of fat pork ; place it in a stew- 
pan, breast uppermost, with sliced vegetables, a bunch of parsley, 
three pints of white broth, and a buttered paper over ; start on the 
fire, and cook slowly in the oven for about an hour and a half, sprink- 
ling the larding occasionally with the gravy to glaze of a light-brown 
color ; this done, drain the turkey, strain and free the gravy from its 
fat, and thicken it with two ounces of flour browned in two ounces of 
butter ; add a gill of madeira wine and more broth if required, stir till 
it boils, skim, reduce to the desired consistency, and keep warm ; 
meanwhile prepare a garnishing with cooked and sliced sweetbread, 
slices of truffles, mushrooms, cock's-combs, a dozen stoned olives, and 
two dozen small chicken force-meat quenelles ; untie and dish up the 
turkey, group the garnishing round it, pour part of the sauce over, and 
serve with the rest in a sauce-bowl. 

Porterhouse Steaks, Horseradish Sauce. — Procure two 
large porterhouse steaks, pare, flatten pretty heavily, season with salt 
and pepper, and broil rare over a brisk charcoal fire ; place on a dish, 
baste with a little melted butter, and serve with a horseradish sauce 
[No. 52] in a sauce-bowl. 

Nesselrode Pudding. — Prepare a chestnut ice-cream [No. 336] ; 
line the inside of a smooth jelly-form with it, and fill the hollow with the 
same preparation mixed with candied chestnuts and fruits previously 
soaked in a kirsch syrup ; cover the mould hermetically, and imbed in 
a pail of salted ice for fully two hours ; serve on a folded napkin with 
a kirsch sauce. 

Kirsch Sauce is simply a well-whipt cream [No. 77] sweetened 
and mixed with a glass of kirschwasser, and may be served in a sauce- 
bowl or over the pudding. 



No. 358. 

Monday, December 24. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Puree of partridge i la signora. 

Cod's head and shoulders, scallop sauce ; 
Potatoes a la HoUandaise 



Leg of mutton a la mode ; 
Baked spaghetti. 

Veal chops, sautees with fine herbs ; 
Lettuce salad a la Sotteville. 



Apples a la religieuse. 



COOKERY BOOK. 583 

Puree of Partridge a la Signora. — Prepare two quarts of game- 
broth [No. 329] ; thicken with four ounces of flour lightly browned in 
butter, and boil half an hour ; meanwhile roast two tender partridges, 
pick off the meat (putting the bones in the soup), chop very fine, pound 
to a puree, dilute with six egg-yolks and a gill of cream, and rub 
through a very fine sieve ; put this in a soup-tureen with a pinch of red 
pepper and three ounces of butter in small bits ; then skim, strain the 
soup, and pour it boiling hot and gradually into the tureen, stirring 
vigorously with a dressing-spoon ; serve with short pieces oigrisini bread 
separately on a plate. 

Cod's Head and Shoulders, Scallop Sauce. — Boil the fore 
half of a large and fresh cod [No. 2,zi\^ ^i^d serve with a scallop sauce 
in a sauce-bowl. 

Scallop Sauce. — Put a pint of scallops in a saucepan with two 
ounces of melted butter, salt, white and a pinch of red pepper ; cook 
five minutes, reduce the liquid, and finish with a pint of butter sauce 
and lemon-juice. 

Leg of Mutton a la Mode. — Shorten the knuckle, remove the 
hip and thigh bones, interlard, truss firmly, and cook a leg of mutton 
for three hours as directed for beef a la mode [No. 257] ; serve in the 
same way. 

Baked Spaghetti. — Spaghetti is a kind of fine, solid macaroni 
found in all the italian stores. Boil twelve ounces of spaghetti in 
salted water with a little butter ; drain, put in a saucepan with salt, 
pepper, nutmeg, a pint of bechamel sauce, six ounces of butter in small 
bits, and six ounces of grated parmesan cheese ; stir and toss briskly 
until stringy ; turn into a buttered baking-dish and give it a dome 
form ; sprinkle more cheese and bread-crumbs over, add small bits of 
butter, and bake light brown in a brisk oven. 

Veal Chops, Sautees with Fine Herbs. — Pare eight medium- 
sized veal chops ; season with salt and pepper, put in a sautoir with 
four ounces of melted butter, fry light brown on both sides and well ; 
dish up in a circle, drain off the butter ; put two ladlefuls of espagnole 
sauce with chopped chives and parsley, two ounces of butter, and a 
little gravy in the sautoir ; stir and melt without boiling, pour this over 
the chops, add paper ruffles to the bones, and serve. 

Lettuce Salad a la Sotteville. — Choose four large lettuces ; 
pare off the green leaves, wash, drain well, trim a little, range in a 
salad-bowl with the quartered hearts on top ; prepare a dressing as 
follows : Put in a bowl salt, pepper, a tablespoonful of white-wine vin- 
egar, and half a pint of thick sweet cream ; mix well, pour over the 



584 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

salad, and serve. This dressing is much used and highly appreciated 
in Normandy. 

Apples a la Religieuse. — Take a dozen large cooking-apples 
and core them ; cut them round with the point of a knife and put a 
small bit of butter in the holes left by the cores ; put them in a baking- 
pan with a glass of water, sprinkle fine sugar over, bake slowly, and 
serve them with their syrup, more powdered sugar over, and a tea- 
spoonful of currant jelly on the centre. When carefully done the peel 
over the incision will rise and look like a veil set over the apple. 



No. 359. 

Tuesday, December 25. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

CHRISTMAS DINNER. 

Raw oysters on the half shell. 

Soup : Puree of chicken with cream. 

Spanish mackerel with cucumbers ; 
Potatoes, English style. 

Vol-au-vent a la financiere ; 
Haricots flageolets. 

Roman punch. 

Roast goose a la chipolata ; 
Chiccory salad with capon of garlic. 

Plum pudding. 

Puree of Chicken with Cream. — Thicken two quarts of 
chicken-broth with a white roux made with three ounces of butter and 
four ounces of flour ; stir, boil, and skim well ; pound fine the meat 
of a chicken boiled in the broth ; dilute with four egg-yolks, a pint of 
cream, and a pint of broth ; add a little nutmeg and a pinch of sugar ; 
rub through a fine sieve, put in a stewpan, dilute again and gradually 
with the boiling soup ; set on the fire, stir steadily, heat well but do 
not boil ; finish with two ounces of table butter in small bits, and serve 
with small square pieces of white chicken-meat kept for that purpose. 

Spanish Mackerel with Cucumbers. — Good specimens of this 
delicious fish are occasionally found in our markets at this time of 
year, and so are hot-house cucumbers. Procure a large or two medium- 
sized Spanish mackerel ; cut off the fins, split open, remove the spine, 
season with salt and pepper, baste with oil, and broil on a slow fire ; 
dish up with a partly melted maitre d' hotel sauce over and quartered 
lemon round the dish ; peel, slice thin, season the cucumbers with salt, 
pepper, oil, and vinegar, and serve with the fish on a separate dish. 



COOKERY BOOK. 585 

Vol-au-Vent a la Financidre. — Make a raised pie with feuil- 
letage paste [No. 278] ; prepare a garnishing a la financiere as follows : 
Cook separately and put in a saucepan a sliced sweetbread, a beef 
palate cut in round pieces, mushrooms, cock's-combs, sliced truffles, 
quenelles of chicken force-meat, and a dozen stoned and parboiled 
olives ; add a quart of well-reduced madeira sauce [No. 270], and boil 
a few minutes ; skim, pour into the raised crust (vol-au-vent) ; cover, 
and serve. 

Roman Punch. — Prepare a quart of light syrup at twenty degrees 
(pese-syrop) with a gill of lemon-juice and the rind of a lemon ; cover, 
let infuse an hour, strain, and freeze in the ordinary way ; add a gill of 
Jamaica rum, mix well, and serve in punch-glasses. 

Goose a la Chipolata. — Choose a tender mongrel goose ; cleanse, 
truss, and roast slowly ; surround with a garnishing a la chipolata [No. 
345], and serve apple sauce separately in a bowl. 

A Capon of Garlic, in french gastronomic usage, is simply a clove 
of garlic rubbed on a thin crust of bread, put in a bowl under the salad 
before dressing, and then mixed with the salad to impart its flavor. 

Plum Pudding. — Put in a basin a pound of stringed beef-suet 
chopped fine, twelve ounces of brown sugar, half a pound each of well- 
picked currants, malaga and sultana raisins, four ounces each of can- 
died citron, lemon and orange peel cut in shreds, an ounce of ground 
spices (cinnamon, cloves, ginger, and nutmeg in equal parts), a glass of 
brandy, half a pint of milk, a pound of flour, four eggs, the rind of two 
lemons chopped fine, and a little salt ; mix well, and let rest two or 
three hours ; wet and press the water out of a large cloth, butter and 
flour the centre, place it over a hollow dish, pour the preparation into 
the cloth, tie the pudding firmly with a strong cord, plunge into a large 
stewpan of boiling water, cover, and let boil steadily for six hours ; 
drain, remove the cloth, turn on a dish, pour the following sauce over, 
and serve. 

English Sauce for Pudding. — Put in a small saucepan six egg- 
yolks, four ounces of sugar, a glass of sherry, a lemon rind rubbed on 
two small pieces of loaf-sugar, a pinch of salt, and a pint of milk ; 
mix well, put on a slow fire, stir briskly with an egg-whip until the 
sauce thickens and looks like a light, frothy, thick white sauce ; pour 
some over the pudding, and send the rest in a sauce-bowl. Do not 
heat too much, or the sauce will certainly curdle and be unfit to use. 



586 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

No. 360. 

Wednesday, December 26. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Mock turtle, English style. 

Striped bass au court-bouillon ; 
Timbale of potatoes. 

Calf's head i 1' Italienne ; 
Rice croquettes a la Piemontaise. 

Broiled grouse on toast ; 
Celery, sauce Mayonnaise. 

Wine jelly with quinces. 

Mock Turtle, English Style. — Procure a nicely scalded white 
calf's head ; wipe dry, singe off the remaining hairs, and bone care- 
fully, taking all the fat, meat, and tongue with the skin ; steep in tepid 
water for an hour, put in a stewpan with fresh water, and parboil five 
minutes ; drain, cool, scrape off the white skin from the tongue and 
cheeks, and cut in about a dozen pieces ; put in a st.ewpan, two ounces 
of flour, a pint of water, salt, and a little vinegar ; mix well, add the 
calf's head, a bunch of parsley, two carrots, an onion, about four 
ounces of beef-suet chopped fine, and water enough to cover ; boil, and 
cook slowly ; drain, cut sufficient of the leanest pieces in small squares, 
and put in a stewpan with three quarts of strong beef -broth, two glasses 
of sherry, and a pinch of red pepper ; boil ten minutes, skim well, add 
a pint of small egg-quenelles [No. 283], and serve. 

Break the frontal bone open, take out the brain, removing the 
arteries ; steep and cook in salted water acidulated with vinegar for 
half an hour, and keep till wanted. 

Striped Bass au Court-Bouillon. — Cleanse and divide in eight 
or more pieces, a large striped bass ; keep the head intact ; place the 
whole on the grate in a fish-boiler, with salt, pepper, three ounces of but- 
ter, two transversely-cut large onions, parsley-leaves, and a highly gar- 
nished bunch of parsley ; moisten with a bottle of red wine and a little 
water, boil, and let simmer gently an hour ; then drain and reconstruct 
the fish on a dish, range the sliced onions over it, and remove the 
bunch of parsley • thicken the gravy with two ounces of flour kneaded 
with three ounces of butter, boil ten minutes, skim ; add lemon-juice, 
a tablespoonful of anchovy-essence, and two pats of butter ; pour this 
over the fish, and serve. 

Calf's Head a 1' Italienne. — Drain the choicest pieces of calf's 
head left from the soup ; trim, and with a small round tin tube remove 
the centre of the ear (which is always unpleasant to serve), and cut 
small incisions in the small end, fold it over, and curl ; split the 



COOKERY BOOK. 58; 

tongue in two, dish up nicely, put the brain on top, pour an Italian 
sauce [No. 284] round it, and serve with more sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Rice Croquettes a la Piemontaise. — Cook a pint of rice with 
a quart of milk, two ounces of butter, salt, and nutmeg, for thirty 
minutes ; add four egg-yolks and four ounces of grated parmesan 
cheese ; mix well and cool a little ; sprinkle grated cheese on the 
table, turn the rice on it, divide in parts about an inch thick, two 
wide, and three long ; dip in beaten eggs, then in bread-crumbs ; 
shape nicely with the blade of a knife, fry light brown in plenty of hot 
lard, and serve on a folded napkin. 

Broiled Grouse on Toast. — Pick, singe, draw, and trim two or 
three grouse ; slit down the back, crack the large bones, flatten, pare a 
little, season with salt and pepper, and broil rare ; dish up on dry toast, 
garnish with water-cress and quartered lemon, pour a melted maitre 
d' hotel sauce over, and serve with currant jelly on a plate. 

Wine Jelly vrith Quinces. — Clarify a quart of sweet jelly with 
ten ounces of sugar, the syrup of a quart-can of quinces, and an ounce 
and a half of gelatine as directed [No. 2] ; cool partially, and mix in 
half a pint of sherry wine ; have the quartered quinces well drained on 
a cloth, range them by layers in a cylindrical jelly-mould as directed in 
the above number ; cool thoroughly, and serve. 



No. 361. 

Thursday, December 27. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Puree of white beans. 

Fried eels, sauce vert-pre ; 
Potato croquettes. 

Stewed hare a la mode ; 
Stewed celery a 1' Espagnole. 

Roast noix of veal a la demi-glaze ; 
Lettuce salad with eggs. 

Compote of greengages. 

Puree of White Beans. — Wash a quart of dry beans ; put them 
in a stewpan with half a pound of parboiled salt pork, a bunch of pars- 
ley, an onion, two leeks, a head of celery, a carrot, two quarts of water, 
and a quart of veal-broth ; heat slowly, skim ; add salt, pepper, 
and two ounces of butter ; cover, and boil slowly for three hours ; 
remove the lard and vegetables, rub through a fine sieve, and return to 
a stewpan ; add more broth if required, boil ten minutes longer, skim 
again, finish with a little sugar and two ounces of butter, and serve with 
small squares of bread fried in butter. 



588 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Fried Eels, Sauce Vert-Pre. — Skin, pare, and cut in five-inch 
lengths two large eels ; put them in a stewpan with salted and acidu- 
lated water, pepper-corns, a sliced carrot and onion, a bunch of parsley, 
two cloves of garlic, and four blades of mace ; boil slowly for fifteen 
minutes, cool in the liquid, and drain on a cloth ; roll in pulverized 
crackers, dip in beaten eggs, and roll in crackers again ; smooth nicely 
with the blade of a knife, fry light brown in plenty of hot lard, dish up 
on a folded napkin, garnish with fried parsley and quartered lemon, 
and serve with a vert-pre sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Vert-Pre Sauce. — Bruise and parboil two handfuls of spinach 
with a handful each of parsley, chives, and tarragon ; cool, and press 
the water out ; then pound, adding a piece of butter ; rub through a 
very fine sieve, and mix with white ravigote sauce [No. 256] ; this 
ought to be of a pale-green color. 

Stewed Hare a la Mode. — Skin, paunch, trim, and cut two hares 
in pieces, saving the blood ; thrust small seasoned shreds of larding- 
pork in the pieces, put in a stewpan four ounces of butter with four 
ounces of salted pork cut in squares, fry five minutes, add the hares, 
and fry five minutes longer ; drain off most of the fat ; add a pint of 
red wine and a pint of broth, salt, pepper, a bunch of parsley, two 
bruised cloves of garlic, two carrots cut in small pieces, and a dozen 
small onions browned in frying butter ; boil, cover, and let simmer 
gently until thoroughly done ; then with a skimmer drain and dish up 
the meat and garnishing, free the gravy of its fat, thicken with the 
blood (if there is none, or if you prefer, use a little flour), and put in a 
few bits of butter ; mingle by tossing in the saucepan vigorously at the 
side of the fire, add a few drops of vinegar, boil no longer ; pour this 
over the meat, and serve. 

Noix of Veal, Demi-Glaze Sauce. — Select a nice white noix of 
veal ; put it in a buttered copper roasting-pan with salt, a bunch of 
parsley, half a pint of water, small bits of butter on top, and a buttered 
paper over ; put in a moderately heated oven, and roast light brown 
for about two hours, taking care to sprinkle the meat frequently with 
the gravy ; this done, drain the veal, add a little broth to the gravy, 
skim the fat, reduce to the desired consistency with a ladleful of 
espagnole sauce, and press through a napkin ; dish up the veal, pour 
the sauce round it, and serve. 

Compote of Greengages. — Open two quart-cans of firm green- 
gages, and drain on a sieve ; reduce the syrup with a glass of fine 
brandy, range the gages in a deep compot-dish, pour the cooled syrup 
over them, and serve. 



COOKERY BOOK. 589 

No. 362. 

Friday, December 28. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Stewed oysters, Boston style. 

Fried halibut, tomato sauce ; 
Potatoes, Lyonnaise. 

Haricot of mutton j 
Fried parsnips. 

Roast Guinea-fowls ; 
Water-cress salad. 

Souffle praline a la d' Artois, 

Stewed Oysters, Boston Style. — Cook four dozen large stew- 
ing oysters as directed [No. 89], but place small pieces of buttered 
toast in the tureen before pouring the soup into it. 

Fried Halibut, Tomato Sauce. — Take eight even-sized small 
halibut steaks ; pare off the skin and bones, dip the fish in milk, roll in 
flour, and fry light brown ; salt, dish up on a napkin, and serve with a 
tomato sauce in a sauce-bowl. 

Haricot of Mutton. — Proceed as directed [No. 297] for haricot 
of lamb, but boil half an hour longer. 

Roast Guinea-Fowls. — Dress, lard, and roast two tender guinea- 
fowls as directed [No. 54] ; dish up, add a ladleful of rich gravy to 
the drippings, strain them over the birds, and serve with cranberry jelly 
on a plate. 

Souffle Praline a la d' Artois. — Blanch six ounces of almonds, 
chop fine, put on a baking-sheet in a moderate oven, and let color 
slightly ; pound very fine ; dilute gradually with a quart of milk, mix 
with six ounces of sugar and six ounces of flour, then proceed exactly 
and serve as directed [No. 257] for souffle a la vanille. 

Boned Turkey. — Prepare force-meat as follows : Chop fine, 
separately, two pounds of white lean veal, and the same of fresh, fat 
pork ; put in a mortar, pound vigorously; add salt, white pepper, nut- 
meg, four egg-yolks, and a glass of sherry; pound again, and put in a 
basin ; cut in long square shreds about a quarter of an inch thick, half 
a pound each of fat pork, red beef-tongue or ham, and lean of veal or 
pork tenderloin. Singe slightly a fine, dry-picked, tender turkey-hen ; 
cut off the wings and legs, and bone carefully ; lay the turkey open, 
the inside uppermost, on a large napkin; transfer sliced pieces from the 
breast where it is too thick, to the legs and neck where the meat is 
scant, and sprinkle with salt and pepper ; spread a layer of force-meat 
on the centre, about an inch thick, seven wide, and ten long; 
then a layer of pork, beef-tongue, veal, and slices of truffles, 



590 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

arranging neatly ; then another layer of force-meat, etc., till all 
has been used, finishing with the force-meat and a thin layer of 
slices of fat pork on top ; bring up the sides together, sew the 
back from end to end ; roll tightly in the napkin, and fasten both 
ends firmly ; put in an oval, deep copper pan (braisiere) two sliced 
onions and carrots, the pork and veal trimmings, then the boned tur- 
key, a bunch of parsley, pepper-corns, two leeks, a head of celery, two 
blades of mace, and finally the broken carcass of turkey ; add six 
quarts of boiling broth and a little salt ; boil, cover, and let simmer 
gently for three hours ; drain, cool enough to handle, remove the napkin 
carefully, and rinse and press the water out ; spread the napkin on the 
table, return the turkey in it, roll, and tie firmly again, place in a hollow 
dish with the fat from the broth, put a flat dish and a heavy weight on 
top, and leave it thus overnight in a cool place. Strain and free the 
broth (there ought to be about three quarts) of every particle of fat ; 
add six ounces of isinglass, clarify in the usual way with four beaten 
eggs, a gill of sherry, and the same of tarragon vinegar ; strain through 
a jelly-bag and put to set in a cool place. When ready to serve take 
the turkey out of the napkin, remove the string used to sew the back, 
trim both ends, glaze with some jelly reduced for the purpose, place on 
a dish, ornament the surface with jelly cut in fanciful shapes, garnish 
the base with jelly chopped fine, and range neatly cut squares or 
triangles on the edge of the dish. 

We give this recipe a few days in advance for the benefit of house- 
keepers who wish to prepare for New Year's. If the truffles were 
omitted, the turkey would still be a first-class dish. 



No. 363. 

Saturday, December 29. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Tapioca, with rice. 
Stuffed crabs. 



Ducks stewed with olives ; 
Broiled sweet potatoes. 

Timbale a la Savoisienne. 



South-Down mutton chops i la Colbert ; 
Chiccory salad. 

Croutes a 1' abricot. 
Tapioca with Rice. — Prepare three quarts of beef-broth [No. 
263] ; boil, stir, let drop like rain four ounces of pulverized tapioca, 
and boil half an hour ; cook separately six ounces of rice in white 



COOKERY BOOK. 591 

broth, drain, put with the tapioca, boil a few minutes longer, skim, 
pour into a soup-tureen, and serve. 

Stuffed Crabs. — Procure two dozen live hard-shell crabs (the fe- 
males are the best, and may be easily distinguished by the wide flap 
and red claws) ; boil five minutes in salted water ; cool and break 
open, preserving eight or more of the best shells, remove the gills, wash 
off the sand ; pick all the meat and creamy part from the shells and 
bodies, and chop fine ; put in a saucepan three ounces of butter, two 
tablespoonfuls of chopped shallots, and two ounces of flour, and fry 
without browning ; dilute with a pint of milk, season with salt, white 
and red pepper, stir, and boil five minutes ; add the crab-meat, four 
egg-yolks, and boil two minutes longer ; finish with lemon-juice and 
chopped parsley ; fill the shells, sprinkle bread-crumbs over, smooth 
the surface, put in a baking-pan with small bits of butter atop, and 
bake light brown ; dish up, garnish with quartered lemon, and serve. 

Ducks Stewed with Olives. — Singe, draw, and truss two ten- 
der tame ducks ; put them in a stewpan with three ounces of butter, 
fry brown all round, sprinkle two ounces of flour over, fry again, and 
dilute with three pints of broth ; add pepper, a bunch of parsley, and an 
onion ; boil, and let simmer gently for an hour ; drain the ducks, free 
the gravy from its fat, reduce to the desired consistency, and press 
through a napkin ; stone three dozen large olives, parboil, put them 
into the sauce, and boil a few minutes ; untruss and dish up the ducks ; 
pour the sauce and olives round them, and serve. 

Timbale ^ la Savoisienne. — Put four ounces of butter in a 
saucepan with a chopped onion, and fry a little ; add twelve ounces of 
rice, and fry a little longer ; wet with a quart of white broth, add half 
a pound of sausages, cover, and cook thirty minutes ; take up the 
sausages ; put four ounces of grated parmesan cheese and six ounces 
of butter with the rice, mix with a wooden spoon, cover and let rest 
five minutes, so that the rice may absorb the butter ; butter a plain 
timbale-mould, besprinkle with rasped crumbs, turn into the mould 
some liquid-beaten egg-whites, roll them around, turn the mould over, 
and bread-crumb again ; fill with the rice, mixed with the sliced 
sausages ; cover with a buttered paper and the lid of the mould ; put 
on a baking-sheet, and bake in a brisk oven ; at serving-time slip a 
knife between the rice and the mould, invert on a dish, pour a demi- 
glaze sauce round it, and serve. 

South-Dov/n Mutton Chops ^ la Colbert. — Cut eight or 
more fat-covered south-down mutton chops, and trim nicely, leav- 
ing on all the fat ; season with salt and pepper, broil slowly and 



592 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

rare, dish in a circle, pour a colbert sauce [No. 272] in the centre, and 
serve. 

Croutes a 1' Abricot. — Open sufficient California apricots (they 
are perfect and not too dear) ; drain on a sieve, and proceed as di- 
rected [No. 270] for croutes aux peches, using apricots instead. 



No. 364. 

Sunday, December 30. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 
Soup : Consomme 4 la chatelaine. 

Striped bass k la Conti ; 
Potatoes 4 la Vaudoise. 

Beef braised with macaroni ; 
Beet sautes in butter. 

Fried chicken, sauce poivrade ; 
Lettuce, sauce Mayonnaise. 

Chocolate ice-cream. 

Consomme a la Chitelaine. — Make eight small, plain timbales 
with a half pint of purde of white onions mixed with a gill of cream, 
ten egg-yolks, and two eggs, salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and cook in a 
flat saucepan with boiling water to half the height of the timbale- 
moulds ; pour into a soup-tureen three quarts of consomme [No. 133] 
with a pint of peas and string-beans cut in short pieces ; turn the tim- 
bale into a deep dish with a little consomme, and serve one to each 
person with a plate of soup. 

Striped Bass a la Conti. — Cleanse and draw a striped bass of 
about six pounds ; cut the fins short, make a few incisions on both 
sides, and place in an oval copper baking-pan with three ounces of the 
best sweet oil, salt, pepper, two tablespoonfuls of chopped shallots, a 
bunch of parsley, a pint of white wine, and a pint of broth, and an 
oiled paper over ; boil and cook for an hour in a moderate oven, taking 
care to sprinkle the fish occasionally with the gravy ; drain the bass, 
remove the parsley, reduce the gravy to the desired consistency with a 
pint of espagnole sauce ; add lemon-juice and chopped parsley, dish 
up the fish, pour the sauce over it, and serve. 

Beef Braised with Macaroni. — Take a six-pound round piece 
of beef ; truss firmly and cook as directed [No. 345] ; put a thick layer 
of macaroni a 1' Italienne on a dish, place the beef on it, pour part of 
the reduced gravy over, and serve. 

Macaroni a 1' Italienne. — Boil twelve ounces of macaroni in 
salted water with a small piece of butter ; drain and put in a large 



COOKERY BOOK. 593 

saucepan with salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, grated gruyere and parme- 
san cheese (four ounces each), four ounces of butter, and two ladlefuls 
of allemande sauce ; mix well by vigorously tossing the saucepan, and 
turn into a large dish with a little good beef gravy over. 

Beet Sautes in Butter. — Boil enough beets ; cool, peel, and 
slice ; put them in a saucepan with four ounces of butter, salt and 
pepper ; stir a little, add a few drops of vinegar, and serve very hot. 

Fried Chicken, Sauce Poivrade. — Dress and divide two tender 
chickens ; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg • sprinkle with flour, 
dip in beaten eggs, and roll in bread-crumbs ; fry slowly and well in 
clarified butter ; drain and dish up on a folded napkin, garnish with 
fried parsley and quartered lemons, and serve with a poivrade sauce 
[No. 314] in a sauce-bowl. 

Chocolate Ice-Cream (proportions for two quarts). — Melt on a 
plate in a slow oven half a pound of plain chocolate (cacao) ; put in a 
kitchen-basin sixteen egg-yolks, twenty ounces of sugar, an infusion of 
half a vanilla-bean, and the melted chocolate ; mix well, add a quart 
of milk, set on the fire, stir steadily with a wooden spoon until the milk 
thickens ; then strain immediately through a fine strainer and stir oc- 
casionally while cooling ; add a quart of raw cream and freeze in the 
ordinary way ; serve either rocher-like on a folded napkin or moulded 
in a form. 



No. 365. 

Monday, December 31. — Bill of fare for eight persons : 

Soup : Consomme 4 la Napolitaine. 

Fresh mackerel, white-wine sauce ; 
Stewed potatoes. 

Boiled partridge, puree of celery ; 
Baked cauliflowers. 



Mutton chops a la financiere ; 
Escarole salad. 



Omelet with quinces. 

Consomme ^ la Napolitaine. — Prepare three quarts of game- 
broth as directed [No. 329] ; cut the white stalks of four heads of 
celery in small squares, and cook in slightly salted water with a little 
butter ; make about three dozen small game-quenelles ; cook four 
ounces of macaroni, and cut it in inch lengths ; have these ingredients 
well drained, and put them in the broth ; boil a few minutes, skim, 
pour into a soup-tureen ; add small, round, thin outer crusts of bread 
fried in butter, and serve with grated parmesan cheese on a plate. 



594 FRANCO-AMERICAN 

Game Force-Meat. — Take the fillets of a grouse ; pare off the 
sinews, and chop very fine ; pound, mix in an equal quantity of bread 
panada, and proceed as directed [No. 294] for chicken force-meat and 
quenelles. 

Fresh Mackerel, White-Wine Sauce. — Cleanse, wash, and 
wipe dry three fresh mackerel ; put in a sautoir with butter, salt, 
pepper, nutmeg, chopped onion and parsley, a bunch of parsley, and 
half a pint of white wine ; cover, and cook slowly for half an hour ; 
drain the fish, remove the bunch of parsley, add a pint of white broth 
to the gravy, thicken with two ounces of flour kneaded with two ounces 
of butter, and boil a few minutes ; add three egg-yolks, mix well, pour 
this over the fish, sprinkle with fresh crumbs, and put small bits of 
butter atop ; bake light brown, press the juice of a lemon over, and 
serve in the baking-dish. 

Boiled Partridge, Puree of Celery. — Dress four fat partridges ; 
cover the breast with fat pork ; put them in a stewpan with a sliced 
carrot and onion, salt, a bunch of parsley, and a quart of water ; cover, 
and boil slowly ; when done drain the partridges, untie, dish up on dry 
toast, pour a puree of celery over, and serve. 

Puree of Celery. — Pare off the green part of two bunches of 
celery ; cut the white in pieces, parboil five minutes, drain ; put in a 
saucepan with four ounces of butter, salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; set on 
the fire, and stir a few minutes ; cover, and cook slowly for half an 
hour ; sprinkle two ounces of flour over, mix well, dilute with a pint of 
partridge-broth and a cup of cream, boil ten minutes, rub through a 
fine sieve, and finish with two ounces of butter and a little sugar. 

Mutton Chops a la Financiere. — Pare and flatten eight fat- 
covered mutton chops ; trim neatly, season with salt and pepper, and 
broil rare ; dish up in a circle alternately with chop-shaped slices of 
bread fried in butter ; pour a garnishing a la financiere [No. 359] in the 
centre of the dish, and serve. 

Omelet with Quinces. — Break eight or more eggs in a kitchen- 
basin with a tablespoonful of sugar and a glass of brandy ; mix, and 
beat well ; warm in a small saucepan some sliced and well-drained 
preserved quinces with two tablespoonfuls of stirred quince jelly ; melt 
three ounces of butter in a large frying-pan, add the eggs, and make 
the omelet ; spread it in the pan, pour the prepared quinces in the 
centre, fold over, roll nicely, and turn into a dish ; sprinkle with pow- 
dered sugar, glaze with a red-hot iron, and serve. 



INDEX. 



A. 

Almond cream, 27. 
custard, 103. 
ice-cream, 28. 
(to blanch), 176. 
Anchovy butter, 41. 

patties, 82. 
Antelope steaks, 38. 
Apples a r angelique, 39. 
a la Conde, 346. 
4 la duchesse, 93. 
a la fermiere, 279. 
k la Manhattan, 318. 
h la Ninon, 278. 
41a Polonaise, 125. 
k la Portugaise, 265. 
4 la religieuse, 358. 
4 la Windsor, 290. 
baked a la Bourdaloue, 46. 
cake, 32. 

charlotte, currant jelly, 86. 
chartreuse, 19. 
croquettes, 120. 
croustades, 52. 
croutes a la Normande, loi. 
dumplings, lemon sauce, 295. 
fritters, 261. 

4 la Nemours, 97. 

currant-jelly sauce, 75. 

in surprise, 149. 

hard sauce, 5. 
glazed with crusts, 335. 
marmalade au caramel, 96. 

a la gelee, 309. 
meringued, 337. 
miroton, 109. 

omelet a la Claremont, 323. 
(pain of) a la Chantilly, 331. 
pudding au sabayon, 92. 

with rice, 324. 
stewed with quince jelly, 79. 
(suedoise of), 15. 
tart 4 la Saxonne, 246. 

with jelly, 286. 
timbale, 54. 
(green) tart 4 la Jersey, 236. 



Apricot 4 la Colbert, 34. 
fritters, 50. 
ice-cream, 210. 
(pain of) au marasquin, 319. 
pudding a la Nan5oise, 59. 
souffle a la Viennoise, 327. 
tart, French style, 340. 
with rice, 22. 
Artichoke a la Barigoule, 185. 
4 r Italienne, 178. 
4 la Lyonnaise, 175. 
boiled, white sauce, 182. 
bottoms slufifed, 16 and 200. 
bottoms (to prepare), 173. 
fried, 184. 
salad, 181. 
Asparagus a la Fribourg, 147. 
baked, iii. 
boiled, white sauce, 96. 

on toast, 98. 

sauce Hollandaise, loi. 
salad, 106. 

4 la Ni9oise, 154. 
tops au veloute, 142. 

sautes in butter, 97. 

with gravy, 1 18. 

B. 

Baba cake with rum, lo. 
Bacon with sour-krout, 57. 
Batter for fritters, 5. 
Bavarois 4 1' orange, 187. 

4 la Praslin, 233. 

4 la vanille, 164. 

au cafe, 353. 

au caramel, 116. 

au chocolat, 305. 

au the, 219. 

aux abricots, no 

aux fraises, 148. 

aux peches, 213. 

glace au marasquin, 77. 

with ginger, 41. 
Beef 4 la mode, 257. 
cold, 260. 

aloyau a la Franfaise, 81. 



Figures refer to number of Menu. 
595 



596 



INDEX. 



Beef a la Godard, 105. 

a la Lombarde, 307. 
a la Turinoise, 140. 
braised a la bourgeoise, 292. 

i la Brisse, 92. 

a la Chipolata, 345. 

i la Marseillaise, 327. 

ck la Nivernaise, 147. 

a la Parisienne, 31. 

h. la Polonaise, 318. 

with macaroni, 364. 

with stuffed onions, 303. 
(corned) with cabbage, 152. 

tongue, with spinach, 285. 
croquettes h. 1' Italienne, 34. 
entrecotes a la Bearnaise, 26. 

a la Bordelaise, 279. 

k. la maitre d' hotel, 211. 

alamoelle (marrow), 300. 

a la Parisienne, 330. 

k la Rockawav, 154. 

with anchovy butter, 41. 

with puff poiatoes, 347. 
fillet a r Anglaise, 14. 

a r Athenienne, 203. 

a la Brillat-Savarin, 331. 

a la Chateaubriand, 278. 

i la Claremont, 133. 

ci la Conflans, 28. 

a la financiere, 336. 

a la Gouffe, 217. 

a la jardiniere, 256. 

a la marinade, 231. 

a la Moscovienne, i. 

a la Polonaise, 191. 

a la Proven9ale, 224. 

a la royale, 126. 

a la Sicilienne, 176. 

4 la Vernon, 245. 

California style, 238. 

croquettes, 218. 

Madeira sauce, 275. 

Robert sauce, 175. 

minion a la Bordelaise, 209. 
a la Duxelles, 99. 
glazed 4 la jardiniere, 74. 

tomato sauce, 27. 

with cabbage, 50. 

with lazagnes, 95. 

with vegetables, 287. 
(Hamburg) with spinach, 143. 
kidney stewed, 155. 
loin a la Bruxelloise, 294. 

roasted, 268. 

a r Anglaise, 308, 

k la Londonderry, 321. 

h. la Parisienne, 35. 

sauce Bordelaise, 343. 

Madeira sauce, 19. 



Beef (minced fillet of), 162. 

a la Fontenelle, 246. 
a la Richmond, 239. 
sauce poivrade, 232. 
(noix of) a la bourgeoise, 20. 
palates a la Horly, 125. 
a r Italienne, 62. 
a la ravigote, 179. 
croquettes, 198. 
patties a la Viennoise, 208. 
pie a la Londonderry, 161. 
pillau a la Navarraise, 254. 
porterhouse steak a la Bearnaise, 258. 
a la Bohemienne, 338. 
4 la Parisienne, 164. 
4 la Rosny, 227. 
a la Soyer, 135. 
Boston style, 83. 
horseradish sauce, 357. 
marrow sauce, 283. 
sauce Colbert, 13. 
shallot sauce, 213. 
pudding, English style, 171. 
ribs a la Bontoux, 63. 
a la Mazarin, 137. 
sauce Robert, 355. 
with French beans. 220. 
with horseradish, 100. 
with small patties, 349. 
roasted a la Hessoise, 182. 
i la Matignon, 11. 
a la Parmentier, 264. 
English style, 53. 
with potato croquettes, 281. 
rissoles, sauce Colbert, 181. 
(round of) a la Calabraise, 75. 
a la Columbus, 222. 
a la Flamande, 251, 
German style, 124. 
with glazed onions, 276. • 

with nouilles, 302. 
(rump of) a 1' Andalouse, 226. 
a la Badoise, 2ig. 
a r Espagnole, 271. 
a la Parmentier, 194. 
a la Portugaise, 16. 
i la Windsor, 131. 
with spinach, 201. 
rump-steak a la Parisienne, 145. 
a la Polonaise, 150. 
sauce Chateaubriand, 57. 
with horseradish butter,96. 
sirloin a la printaniere,' 121. 
roasted a la cardinal, 235. 
steak a la maitre d' hotel, 108. 
a la Napolitaine, 4. 
Albert sauce, 225. 
marrow sauce, 248. 
sauce Lyonnaise, 295. 



Figures refer to number of Menu. 



INDEX, 



597 



Beef, sirloin steak with onions, 340. 
with potatoes, 94. 
stewed a la Hongroise, 129. 

a la Parisienne, 229. 
tenderloin steak a 1' hoteliere, 174. 
alaMirabeau, 122. 
Madeira sauce, 168. 
sauce Colbert, 142. 
sauce piquante, 56. 
tomato sauce, 86. 
with mushrooms, 288. 
with nouilles, 207. 
with olives, 160, 
tongue a la Flamande, 17. 
a la Romaine, 69. 
au gratin (baked), 97. 
au Parmesan, 114. 
with spinach, 324. 
tournedos a la chasseur, 58. 
a la Colbert, 228. 
sauce poivrade, I02. 
Beef and pork with cabbage, 2. 
Beefsteak a 1' Anglaise, 90. 
a la Bardoux, 128. 
a la Colbert, 71. 
k la Grecque, 195. 
a la Veron, 240. 
Beet a la Chartreuse, 40. 
a la Poitevine, 346. 
sautes in butter, 364. 
stewed, 9. 

American style, 52. 
with cream, 60. 
(sour) juice, 207. 
Beignets (fritters) a 1' alliance, 312. 
a la Medicis, 262. 
a la Montansier, 325. 
Biscuit de Savoie, 107. 

glace a la vanille, 7. 
Bisques {see soups). 
Black bass a 1' etuvee, 25. 

a la maitre d' hotel, 320, 
in matelote, 47. 
stewed, American style, 9. 
stuffed, crayfish sauce, 69. 
Blackberry pudding, 184. 

shortcake, English style, 183. 
tart, 181. 
with cream, 186. 
Blackbirds on toast, 292. 
Black-fish, American style, 172. 

baked with fine herbs, 234. 
broiled, chilli sauce, 244. 
in matelote, 195. 
stewed a la Newport, 184. 
au court-bouillon, 322. 
port-wine sauce, 268. 
Blanc-manger a la fleur d' orange, 330. 
au cafe, 108. 



Blanc-manger aux amandes, 277. 
cups, a la vanille, 214. 
fritters, 117. 
panache, 124. 
Blue-fish, broiled, mustard sauce, 167. 
sauce matelote, 138. 
white-wine sauce, 255. 
fillets a la Duxelles, 216. 
anchovy sauce, 233. 
Boar's head with jelly, 29. 
Bombe a la souveraine, 49. 

aux fruits, 301. 
Boned calf's head, sauce ravigote, 8. 

turkey with jelly, I. 
Bonito a la Polonaise, 200. 
a la Proven9ale, 218. 
Border of bread, 155. 

of plain rice, 169. 
of potatoes, 237. 
of rice a la Demidoff, 12. 
Bouchees a la reine, 295. 
au salpicon, 333. 
of prawns, 97. 
Bouillabaisse, 278. 
Bouride a la Marseillaise, 257. 
Brandade de morue (codfish), 89. 
Bread-and-butter pudding, 237. 

panada, 294. 
Brioche cake, 303. 
Broad-beans a la Bechamel, 205. 

a la Westphalieune, 191. 
English style, 186. 
puree, 198. 
with savory, 179. 
Brook-pickerel, maitre d' hotel, 284. 
Brook-trout a la Berchoux, 205. 
a la Biarritz, 228. 
a la Conde, 221. 
a la Durance, 149. 
a r hoteliere, 140. 
a la maitre d' hotel, 84. 
a la Vatel, 133. 
anchovy sauce, 105. 
broiled, 77. 

court-bouillon sauce, 119. 
fried, 145 

sauce Genevoise, 112. 
Hollandaise, 98. 
tartar sauce, 91. 
Broths (see soups). 

Brussels sprouts a 1' Espagnole, 292. 
au Parmesan, 315. 
sautes, 289. 
Buffalo-tongues a la St. Louis, 241. 
Bunch of parsley (to make), 327. 
Buisson of crayfish, 131. 

of prawns, 105. 
Butter, anchovy, 41. 
crayfish, 135, 



Figures refer to number of Menui 



598 



INDEX. 



Butter, horseradish, g6. 

lobster, 283. 

orchanet, 329. 

to clarify, n. 
Eutter-fish, fried, 155. 



Cabbage paupiettes a la Milanaise, 215. 
stewed a la Fribouig, 340. 
i la Navarraise, 167. 
with butter, 158. 
stuffed, 86. 
a la St. Denis, 171. 
(red) k la Flamande, 193, 
Cabinet pudding, 271. 

a r orange, 36. 

a la royale, 6g. 
Cake, almond, 27. 
apple, 32. 
baba, au rhum, 10. 
blackberry (short), 183. 
brioche, 303. 

couronne, 53. 
cheese, 230. 
Compiegne, 227. 
cougloff, a r AUemande, 113. 
cream, 78. 

dariole, with almonds, 4. 
feuillete (puff), 17. 
Flemish, 192. 
Genoese, 31. 
lady-fingers, 2i. 
Madeleine, 81. 
Mazarin, 62. 
Mecca, 47. 
Nougat, 176. 

nouille, French style, 247. 
plum (wedding), 142. 
rice, a la vanille, 268. 

with raisins, 61. 
Savarin, au rhum, 339. 
Savoy (biscuit de Savoie), 107. 
Semolina, 100. 
St. Honore, 151. 

a r ananas, i6g. 

i r orange, 228. 

au chocolat, 250. 

with strawberries, 162. 
strawberry, English style, 167. 

^m\.{see blackberry), 183. 
surprise a la Regente, 218. 
talmouse, 24. 

vermicelli, a la vanille, 241. 
Calf's brain a 1' Italienne, 35. 

fried, tartar sauce, 192. 

in marinade, 54. 

in matelote, 132. 
ears a la Lyonnaise, 118. 

stuffed, tomato sauce, 22. 



Calf's ears with mushrooms, 170. 
feet a la poulette, 167. 
tomato sauce, 26. 
foot jelly a la Windsor, 198. 
head (to coolc a), 360. 
a la Destiliere, 60. 
al' Italienne, 360. 
ci la poulette, 261. 
a la vinaigrette, 47. 
boned, sauce ravigote, 8. 
in tortue, 73. 
sauce piquante, 317. 
liver a la bourgeoise, 236. 
a r Italienne, IIO 
roasted, 127. 
tongue in paper, 149. 
tomato sauce, 80. 
Capon a la chanceliere, 91. 
roasted, 10. 

cranberry jelly, 40. 
with water-cress, 48. 
stuffed, 33. 

truffled (chapon truffe), 65. 
Capon-pullet a la bourgeoise, 87. 
a la Cavour, 85. 
a la Genoise, 34. 
au gros sel, 49. 
Capon of garlic for salad, 359. 
Caramel custard, 314. 
"Cardoons a 1' Espagnole, 210. 

marrow sauce, 221. 
Carp a la Coblentz, 240. 
i la Genevoise, 65. 
a la Romaine, 53. 
fried, 96. 
in matelote, 82. 
Carrots a la bourgeoise, 168. 
a r Espagnole, 162. 
k la Lilloise, 196. 
d la maitre d' hotel, 213. 
sautees, 181. 
stewed au veloute, li. 
Casserole of rice a la Toulouse, iSg 
Cauliflowers a 1' AUemande, 310. 
a r Espagnole, i. 
a la Hollandaise, 293. 
b. la Lucquoise, 304. 
baked, 279. 
a la Bechamel, 13, 
in marinade, 349. 
salad, 97. 
white sauce, 265. 
Celery a 1' Espagnole, 276. 
a la Tessinoise, 79. 
h. la Villeroi, 342. 
au veloute, 281. 
fried, tomato sauce, 316. 
puree aux croutons, 326. 
stewed a la fermiere, 44. 



Figures refer to number of Menu. 



INDEX. 



599 



Celery a 1" Italienne, 12. 
a la paysanne, 330. 
with beef-marrow, 6g. 
with gravy, 83. 
Celery-knobs a la Villeroi, 71. 

stewed, 48. 
Cepes a la Bordelaise, 305. 
a la Provenjale, 65. 
Chapon truffe, 56. 

Charlotte glacee a la Florentine, 308. 
a la Medicis, 84. 
\ la vanille, 294. 
Plombieres, 2i. 
of apples, 86. 
of peaches, 207. 
of pears, 48. 
russe, 6. 
Chartreuse of apples, 19. 

of lamb au gastronome, 234. 
of partridge, 23. 
of pigeon a la Rouennaise, 240. 
of vegetables, 100. 
Cheese cake, English style, 230. 
Cherry-ice, 1S5. 

fritters, 170. 
pie, French style, 166. 
tart, with rice, 179. 
Chestnuts (to peel), 331. 
ice-cream, 336. 
puree, 24. 
stuffing, 333. 
timbale a la vanille, 66. 
Chicory, with gravy, 314. 

puree, 252. 
Chicken a la Chivry, 132. 
a r estragon, 112, 
k r Ivoire, 128. 
i la Montmorency, 346. 
a la Proven^ale, 194. 
a la reine, sauce supreme, 190. 

sauce vert-pre, 196. 
41a St. Cloud, 184. 
a la Turinoise, 211. 
baked, pot pie, 290. 
boiled, a 1' Allemande, 265. 
a la Venitienne, 14. 
with rice, 353. 
bouchees a la reine, 295. 

au salpicon, 333. 
braised a la Vigo, 311. 
tomato sauce, 154. 
with polenta, 202. 
broiled a la Livournaise, 186. 
deviled sauce, 109. 
sauce piquant e, 205. 
with water-cress, 327. 
Yorkshire sauce, 146. 
cutlets, a r Allemande, 226. 
a la Montpensier, 214. 



Chicken cutlets 4 la Villeroi, 3. 

sauce supreme, 220. 
cromesquis, 148. 
croquettes a 1' Italienne, 175. 
croustades a la Parisienne, 231. 
curry 4 la Turque, 38. 

Indian style, 316. 

with rice, 83. 
epigrammes a la Macedoine, 217. 
fillets a la Dauphine, 224. 
force-meat, 294. 

with cream, 326. 
fricassee i la chevaliere, 308. 

a la reine, 279. 

a la St. Lambert, 134. 

with mushrooms, 259. 

with oyster-plant, 341. 
fried a la Bearnaise, 183. 

a la duchesse, 180. 

a la Florentine, 130. 

a la Rockaway, 1 1 1. 

a la Viennoise, 147. 

sauce poivrade, 364, 

tartar sauce, 326, 
fritot a la Parisienne, 303. 

tomato sauce, 156. 
legs a la Macedoine, 225. 
marinade, 31. 
pot-pie, 290. 
roasted a 1' Allemande, 4. 

a la Bressoise, 236. 

a r Italienne, 170. 

Philadelphia style, 270, 

stuffed, 285. 

with cress, 251. 
saute a la Bayonnaise, 206. 

a la Bearnaise, 229. 

a la Bechamel, 356. 

a la Castillane, 153. 

i la Cumberland, 328. 

a la Demidoff, 12. 

a 1' ecarlate, 221. 

a la fermiere, 139. 

h. la Hongroise, 5. 

a la Jersey, 250. 

a la Lyonnaise, 136. 

a la Marengo, 158. 

k la Paschaline, 238. 

a la printaniere, 215. 

a la St. Florentin, 179. 

au chasseur, 258. 
(spring), broiled, 107. 

roasted, 140. 

stewed a la Creole, 253. 

a la paysanne, 187. 

k la Pondichery, 21. 
timbale a la Toulouse, 245. 
and ham pie, 133. 
Chiffonnade, 114. 



Figures refer to number of Menut 



6oo 



INDEX, 



Chocolate ice-cream, 364. 
white, 35. 
custard, 57. 
(souffle of), 317. 
Choux-paste (plain), for force-meat, 323. 

(sugared), for cakes, 47. 
Clams, fried in battel', 237. 
coquilles, 128. 
croquettes, 135. 
Codfish, baked a la New Bedford, 131. 
k la Ste. Menehould, 79. 
with smelts, 68. 
boiled, a la HoUandaise, 95. 
egg sauce, 279. 
Flemish sauce, 4. 
oyster sauce, 253. 
with potatoes, a la St. John, 
350. 
fillets a r Espagnole, 31. 
fried, tartar sauce, 236. 
minced a la Bechamel, 299. 
salted a la maitre d' hotel, 104. 
salted and baked, 117. 

with cream, 18. 
steaks, Canadian style, 247. 
stewed with oysters, 324. 
stuffed, Shrewsbury style, 57. 
(brandade of salt), 89. 
Cod's head and shoulders, caper sauce, 333. 
clam sauce, 245. 
scallop sauce, 358. 
Coffee ice-cream, 343. 
white, 112. 
custard, 15.S. 
Consomme {see soups). 
Compot of apples au caramel, 344. 
of apricots, 89. 
of green gages, 361. 
of oranges, 60. 
of peaches, 202. 

preserved, 326. 
of pears au marasquin, 316. 

a la St. Germain, 99. 
of pineapples, 129. 
of prunes, 88. 
of quinces, 118. 
of strawberries, iced, 161. 
Coquilles of clams, 128. 
of lobster, 63. 
of salmon, Italienne, 198. 
Corn cakes, 183. 

hulled, 348. 
boiled (green), 190. 
(green), off the cob, 207. 
fritters, 299. 
Corned beef and cabbage, 152. 

tongue with spinach, 2S5, 
ham a la Bayonnaise, 157. 
Couglof cake a 1' Allemande, 113. 



Couronne de brioche, 53. 
Crabs, deviled, 49. 

stewed a la Creole, 94. 

stuffed, 363. 
Cranberry jelly, 305. 
Crayfish, a la Bordelaise, lOi. 

a la Colbert, 119. 

a la Nan9oise, 137. 

(buisson of), 131. 

butter, 135. 
Cream, almond, 27. 

a r Andalouse, 73. 

a la Chantilly, 77. 

a la Florentine, 119, 

Bavaroise with ginger, 41. 

biscuit with lemon, 55. 

cake, 78. 

Colbert with almonds, 193. 

croquettes, 269. 

with bitter almonds, 130. 

frangipane 347. 

fritters, apricot sauce, 300. 

gooseberry, English style, 155. 

iced [see ices). 

jelly au chocolat, 226. 
English style, 201, 

St. Honore, 151. 

tart, meringued, 351. 

dressing for salads, 83. 
Crimpled halibut, caper sauce, 33. 
Cromesquis of chicken, 148. 
Croquembouche d' oranges, 354. 
Croquettes of apples, 120. 

of beef a 1' Italienne, 34. 

of beef-palates, 198. 

of chicken, mushrooms, 175. 

of clams, 135. 

of cream, 269. 

of eggs, 99. 

of fillet of beef, 218. 

of macaroni, 81. 

of nouilles, 20. 

of oysters, 12. 

of partridge, 39. 

of potatoes, 75. 

a la Bechamel, 347. 

of rice, a la Parmesane, 232. 
lemon sauce, 264. 
with currants, 291. 

of salmon, lor. 

of semolina, 216. 

of sweetbread a la Duxelles, 151. 
Croustades of apples, 52. 

of chicken a la Parisienne, 231. 

of English snipe, 121. 

of plover a la Proven^ale, 116. 

of potatoes, English style, 35. 

of quail i la Champenoise, 331. 
Croutes a 1' abricot, 363. 



Figures refer to number of Menui 



INDEX. 



6oi 



Cioutes a la Normande, loi. 
a r orange, 321. 
au Madere, 297. 
aux champignons, ic8. 
aux fraises, 139. 
aux peches, 270. 
Cucumbers a la Bechamel, 150. 
a r Espagnole, 144. 
a r Italienne, 163. 
puree, 205. 
sauce supreme, 154. 
stuffed, 135. 

Grecian style, 201. 
Currant ice, 154. 

jelly fritters, 43. 
tarts, 172. 
Curry of chicken, Indian style, 316. 

k la Turque, 38. 
of lamb, English style, 182. 
of lobster h. la Creole, 229. 

American style, 277. 
of veal, with rice, 248. 
Custard au caramel, 314. 
au chocolat, 57. 
(cups of almond), 103. 

of coffee, 158. 

of orange-flower, 288. 

of tea, 223. 

of vanilla, 276. 
(French) au cafe vierge, 306. 
(French lemon), 13. 
fritters a la vanille, 310. 

a la fleur d' orange, 341. 
Cutlets of lobster a la Victoria, 317. 

D. 

Dandelion, boiled, 74. 
Dariole cake with almonds, 4. 
Deviled crabs, 49. 

lobster, 165. 
Dressing for salads, 274. 
Duck (tame) k la Nivernaise, 218. 
with peas, 209. 
with small onions, 2oo. 
with turnips, 59. 
fillets, English style, 120. 
roasted, a la Valencienne, 178. 
pie a la Chartraine, 223. 
stewed a la bourgeoise, 165. 
Irish style, 237. 
stewed with olives, 363. 
(spring) a la Duclair, 192. 
a la Rouennaise, 149. 
a la St. Mande, 197. 
au verjus, 177. 
roasted, 126. 
shallot sauce, 207, 
stuffed, 161. 
(summer), apple sauce, 252. 



Duck, broiled, fine-herb sauce, 234. 
roasted, giblet sauce, 288. 
salmi a la Castillane, 244. 
(black) roasted, 31 1, 
(brant) roasted, 348. 

currant-jelly sauce, 79. 
(broad-bill), currant jelly, 299. 
(canvas-back), roasted, 301. 

currant jelly, 322. 

cranberry jelly, 329. 

with essence of celery, 42. 
(mallard), roasted, 332. 

American style, 1 14. 

a la Proven^ale, 340. 
(red-head), broiled, 20. 

roasted, 298. 

sauce bigarade, 345. 

sauce orange, 75. 
(teal), broiled, 286. 

roasted, 261. 

currant-jelly sauce, 275. 

salmi au pecheur, 319. 
(widgeon), broiled, 313. 

with currant jelly, 294. 

fillets with anchovies, 30. 
(wild), in salmi, 27. 

E. 

Eel, a la Bordelaise, 6. 
h. la Suffren, 43. 
a la Villeroi, 80. 
boiled a la Ste, Catherine, 349. 
broiled, sauce hachee, 335. 

ravigote, 46. 
fried, English style, 107. 

sauce tartar, 280. 
vert-pre, 361. 
galantine a la Nifoise, 82. 
matelote a la St. Ouen, 269. 
pie a la Cumberland, 89. 

a la Lorraine, 201. 
roasted, shallot sauce, 114. 
stewed a la canotiere, 222. 

a la Cauchoise, 357 

a la mariniere, 15. 

a la poulette, 346, 

English style, 318. 

with cucumbers, 160. 
stuffed a 1' Italienne, 303. 
and carp matelote a la Bercy, no. 
Eggs, k la Bechamel, 102. 
a la comtesse, 225, 
a la Creole, 242. 
aux pistaches, 94. 
(oeufs), a la neige, 298. 
baked k 1' aurore, iSo. 

a r Avignonnaise, 173. 

k la Maltaise, 194. 

a la Siennoise, 89. 



Figures refer to number of Menu. 



602 



INDEX. 



Eggs croquettes, 99. 

fricassee a la tripe. 87. 
with cream, 1 17. 

glazed a 1' orange, 132. 

(liaison of), 294. 

poached, with spinach, 93. 

quenelles, 283. 

scrambled, with asparagus, no. 
with mushrooms, 124. 

soft boiled, with sorrel, 164. 

stuffed, with cream, 90. 

vol-au-vent, cream sauce, 68. 
Egg and peach pudding, 240. 
Egg-plant, broiled a la Proven9ale, 211. 
melted butter, 202, 

fried, 258. 

stuffed k r Italienne, 255. 
English pheasant, roasted, 70. 
English turbot a la HoUandaise, 56. [217. 
Epigrammes of chicken a la Macedoine, 

of lamb h. la printaniere, 104. 
aux timbales, 289. 
with peas, 117, 
Essence of celery, 42. 
Excellent au cafe, 322. 



Feuilletage (puff-paste), 278. 
Filbert ice-cream, 105. 
Fish force-meat. 12. 

stuffing, 50. 
Flageolet-beans, maitre d' hotel, l8S. 
Flemish cake, 192. 
Flounder a la Jules Janin, 235. 

a la Proven^ale, 352. 

baked a la Bonvallet, 344. 
a la Parisienne, 312. 
a la St. Malo, 93. 

broiled a la Chivry, 215. 

fillets a la Brighton, 331. 
a la Dieppoise, 226. 
tartar sauce. 29. 

white-wine sauce, 55. 

with fine herbs, 59. 
Fluke h. la Dufferin, 61. 
Fondue a I'Americaine, 68. 

a la Fribourg, 313. 

with cheese, 26. 
Force-meat of chicken, 294, 
with cream, 326, 

of fish, 12. 

of game, 365. 

of veal, cooked, 314. 
Frangipane, 347. 
French dressing for salads, 274, 
French peas, 318. 
Fritters a 1' alliance, 312. 

a la Medicis, 262. 

a la Montansier, 325. 



Fritters apple, 261. 

a la Nemours, 97. 

currant-jelly sauce 75. 

in surprise, 149. 

hard sauce, 5. 
apricot, 50. 
blanc-manger, 1 1 7. 
cherry, 170. 
corn, 299. 

cream, apricot sauce, 300. 
currant-jelly, 43. 
custard, 310. 

a la fleur d' orange, 341. 
marrow-pudding, 146. 
orange, 307. 
peach a la Viennoise, 212. 

glazed, 251. 

marmaladCi 83. 
pear, 302. 
potato, 33. 
queen, 255. 

with preserves, 274. 
rice, 282. 

Scotch marmalade, 20, 
strawberry, 137. 
Fritto-misto, Roman style, 222, 
Frogs, fried, English style, 159. 
stewed a la poulette, 150. 
Fromage glace, praline a 1' orange, 9S. 
Frost-fish, baked, 351. 
fried, 2, 



Galantine (boned turkey), 362. 

of eel a la Ni9oise, 82. 
Game force-meat and quenelles, 365. 

salad, 31. 
Garbures {see soups). 
Garlic for salads, 359, 
Garnishing for soups {see soups). 

a r Amiral, 325. 

a la Beaufort, 14. 

a la Bontoux, 63, 

a la bourgeoise, 292. 

a la Bretonne, 30. 

a la Bruxelloise, 294, 

a la Byron, 144. 

a la Cambacer^s, 39. 

a la cardinal, 305. 

a la Castillane, 35. 

a la Cavour, 28. 

a la Chambord, 66. 

a la Chartreuse, 66. 

a la chevali^re, 308. 

k la chipolata, 345. 

a la Chivry, 132. 

a la Claremont, 133. 

a la Dauphine, 297. 

a la Dreux, 96. 



figures refer to number of Menu. 



INDEX, 



603 



Garnishing a la Dufferin, 61. 
a la Durand, 5. 
a la financiere, 359. 
a la Flamande, 17. 
a la Georgienne, 288. 
i la Godard, 105. 
4 la Havraise, 214. 
ji, la jardiniere, 7. 
a la Jean-Bart, 308. 
a la Lyonnaise, 67. 
a la Macedoine, 352. 
a la mariniere, 15. 
a la matelote, 82. 
i la Milanaise, 277. 
h. la Montebello, 74. 
i la Montglas, 306. 
a la Nesle, 71. 
i la Nivernaise, 147. 
a la Normande, 313. 
a la Parisienne, 31. 
i la paysanne, 269. 
a la Polonaise, 318. 
a la Portugaise, 16. 
k la printaniere, 104. 
k la regence, 300. 
a la Richmond, 24. 
i la Rockaway, 154. 
a la royale, 126. 
k la St. Lambert, 134. 
a la St. Malo, 93. 
a la Toulouse, 343, 
a la Vatel, 133. 
a la Victoria, 19. 
a la Vigo, 311. 
^ la Windsor, 131. 
of artichoke bottoms, 16. 
of asparagus tops, 102. 
of beans (Mexican), 146. 
of beef a la mode, 257. 
of cabbage, 291, 
of chicory, 252. 
of cucumbers, 129. 
of lettuce, 266. 
of mashed spinach, 61. 
of milts (soft roes), 86, 
of mushrooms, ill. 
of nouilles, 302. 
of onions, glazed, 276. 

stuffed, 303. 
of polenta, 202. 
of potatoes a la Bignon, 216. 
of rice a la Bayonnaise, 157. 

a la Turinoise, 211, 
of salpicon, 333. 
of sour-kraut, 57. 
of spinach rissoles, 286. 
of timbales a 1' Ecossaise, 13S 

a r Indienne, 229. 

a la Macedoine, 289. 



Garnishing a la Turinoise, 140. 
a la Venitienne, 41. 
of polenta, 202. 

of turnips, glazed, 301. 
Gateau d' amandes, 27. 

de plomb. III. 

Mazarin, 62. 

feuillete, 17. 

with preserves, 102. 
Gelee {see jellies). 
Genoese cake, 31. 
German stuffing, 344. 
Giblet of turkey a la chiporata, 58, 

with turnips, 334. 
Ginger ice-cream, 259. 
Gnocchis a 1' Italienne, 199-. 

a la Parisienne, 212. 
Goose (green) a 1' estouffade, 310. 

apple sauce, 297. 

roasted, a la chipolata, 359. 
a r orange, 351. 
a la Mount Vernon, 354. 

stuffed with chestnuts, 315. 
a la Dauphinoise, 320. 

(mongrel), sage sauce, 306. 
Gooseberry cream, English style, 155. 

(green) tart, 159. 
Grape tart a la Fontainebleau, 225. 
Gravy (thickened), 351. 
Green corn, 190. 
Green-gage tart, with rice, 221. 
Green peas, 77. 

a la Parisienne, 128. 

English style, 84. 

with ham, 122. 

with lard, 115. 

with lettuce, 126. 

with small onions, 123. 
Green turtle {see soups'). 
Grouse, broiled, on toast, 360. 

roasted, currant-jelly sauce, 280. 
game sauce, 15. 
plum sauce, 47. 

salmi a 1' Ecossaise, 51. 
au chasseur, 7. 
an fumet, 273. 
Guinea fowl a la Periqueux, 72. 

roasted, 362. 

larded, 54. 
Gumbo {see soups). 

H. 

Haddock, boiled, egg sauce, 263. 
white sauce, 10. 
stuffed, baked, 50. 
Halibut, baked, with cream, 323. 
boiled, a la Becliamel, 270. 
cream sauce, 75. 
fleurette sauce, 21. 



Figfures refer to number of Menu. 



6o4 



INDEX. 



parsley sauce, 156. 

broiled, shrimp sauce, 339. 

scolloped au Parmesan, 51. 

crimpled, caper sauce, 33. 

fried, tomato sauce, 362. 

pie, 26. 
Ilam a la Comtoise, 210. 

boiled, Madeira sauce, 270. 

corned, a la Bayonnaise, 157. 
with sour-kraut, 88. 

glazed a la Clamart, 141. 
with spinach, 319. 
Ham, roasted a I'Alsacienne, 242. 
English style, 49. 
Yorkshire sauce, 233. 

and chicken pie, 133. 
Hare (civet of), 44. 

cold potted (lievre en gtte), 50. 

English, a la Finnoise, 28. 

fillets a la Sicilienne, 46. 

roasted, sauce poivrade, 349. 

stewed a la mode, 361. 

stuffed a la fermiere, 32. 
Haricots-flageolets, 35. 

panaches, 170. 

maitre d' hotel, 189. 
Haricot of lamb, 297. 

of mutton, 362. 
Head-cheese with jelly, 84. 
Herring, broiled, maitre d' hotel, 27. 
cream sauce, 11. 

fried, mustard sauce, 341, 

salad a la Bremoise, 68. 
Horse-radish butter, 96. 
Hotchpot, English style, 65. 
Hot-slaw a la Bohemienne, 311. 



Ices, ice-creams, etc. 

apricot ice-cream, 2IO. 
Bavarois glace au marasquin, 77. 
biscuit glacee a la vanille, 7. 
bombe a la souveraine, 49. 

aux fruits, 301. 
Charlotte glacee a la Florentine, 308. 

a la Medicis, 84. 

k la vanille, 294. 

Plombi^res, 21. 
cherry ice, 185. 
chocolate ice-cream, 364. 

white, 35. 
coffee ice-cream, 343. 

white, 112. 
cream a la Florentine, 119. 
currant ice, 154. 
excellent au cafe, 322. 
filbert ice-cream, 105. 
fromage panache a 1' orange, 98. 
lemon ice, 147. 



Ices, meringues a la vanille, 315. 

panachees, 329. 
mousse au cafe noir, 175. 

au cafe vierge, 56. 

aux fraises, 133. 

aux framboises, 165. 

aux poires, 252. 

aux peches, 188. 

au marasquin, 224. 
Muscowite of pears, 245. 

of peaches, 203. 

with currants, 168. 
Napolitaine ice-cream, 280. 
oranges a la Portugaise, 196. 
orange ice, 42. 
parfait au cafe, 14. 
peach ice, 189. 

ice-cream, 217. 
pear ice-cream, 238. 

pudding a la Bartlett, 231. 
pineapple cream a la Russe, 266. 

ice, 273. 
pistache ice-cream, 63. 
pudding a la Nesselrode, 357. 
pyramid of almond ice-cream, 28. 

of chestnut ice-cream, 336. 

of ginger ice-cream, 259. 

of rice ice-cream, 70. 

of strawberry and rice ice- 
cream, 350. 

panachee, 287. 
raspberry ice-cream, 182. 
riz a r imperatrice, 140. 
Koman punch, 359. 
strawberry ice-cream, 126. 

compot, iced, 161. 
vanilla ice-cream, gi. 

J. 

Jam-rolly pudding, English style, 248. 
Jelly (to clarify meat), 362. 

a r anisette, 9. 

a la Benedictine, 299. 

a la Chartreuse, 338. 

a la creme de cacao, 37. 

a la Macedoine, 2. 

au champagne, 72. 

au Dantzig, 293. 

au Cura9ao, 352. 

au kirsch, 275. 

au kummel, 345. 

au Madere, 44. 

au marasquin, 30. 

au Montana, 328. 

au rhum, 51. 

aux fraises, 131. 

aux fruits, 256, 

aux mirabelles, 23. 

aux oranges, 284. 



Figures refer to number of Menu. 



INDEX. 



605 



Jelly, aux poires, 58. 

aux raisins de Malaga, 16. 

apple, 309. 

calf s-foot, k la Windsor, 198. 

cranberry, 305. 

cream, English style, 201. 

with chocolate, 226. 
fouettee a 1' abricot, 65. 

a la Russe, 136. 

au citron, 114. 
lemon a la Scvillane, 242. 
maraschino aux peches, 220. 
of red currants, 173. 
of white currants, 163. 
orange-flower, igi. 

French style, 121. 

in the peel, 234. 
pineapple, 205. 
Rhine-wine, 311. 
rose-leaf, 195. 

strawberry, a la Victoria, 160. 
wine, with quinces, 360. 
Jerusalem artichokes. Bechamel, 66. 

a la Georgienne, 72. 

K. 

Kidney, beef, Madeira sauce, 155. 

mutton, stewed, 144. 

veal, a la Demidoff, 174. 
Kingfish, i la Hollandaise, 171. 

baked, fine herbs, 265. 

broiled, maitre d' hotel, 180. 

fillets k la Colbert, 163. 

fried a 1' Italienne, 243. 

fried, tomato sauce, 197. 

white-wine sauce, 189. 
Kohl-rabis a 1' Espagnole, 177. 

stuffed, 197. 



Lady-fingers, 21. 

Lafayette-fish, sauce mustard, 199, 

Lake-trout a la Montebello, 74. 

lobster sauce, 271. 
Lamb, blanquette, with peas, 106. 
breast a la marechale, 136. 
k la Turque, 230. 
a la Villeroi, 127. 
shallot sauce, 92. 
stuffed a la Very, 180. 
with asparagus, 102. 
carbonades a la Bech:imel, 168. 
chartreuse au gastronome, 234. 
chops, 4 la Bearnaise, 237. 
k la Bretonne, 310. 
i la Cussy, 219. 
a la jardiniere, 98. 
i la Macedoine, 280. 



Lamb chops, h. la Maltaise, 210, 

a la minute, 124. 

a la Provenfale, 300. 

i la Soubise, 262. 

4 la Villeroi, 171. 

in paper, 112. 

with cucumbers, 129. 

with green peas, gi. 

with puree of chestnuts, 332. 

with puree of mushrooms, 325, 
curry, English style, 182. 
epigrammes k la printaniere, 104. 

aux timbales, 289. 

with green peas, 117. 
fillets a la Ste. Menehould, 187. 
fore-quarter a la Winchester, 169. 

English style, 263. 

sauce ravigote, 155. 

stuffed, 84. 
fries, English style, 164. 
hash a la Provenfale, 264. 
haricot k la Parisienne, 297. 
hind-quarter a la Milanaise, 109. 

sauce Colbert, 272. 
leg a la Bretonne, 232. 

4 r Ecossaise, 138. 

mint sauce, loi. 

roasted, 316, 

with lettuce, 243. 

with small onions, 214. 

with spinach, 198. 

with turnips, 153, 
pie k la Windsor, 165. 
saddle, roasted, 119. 
(spring), mint sauce, 77. 
shoulders a la Chevet, 134. 

k la Parisienne, 97. 

k la paysanne, 221. 

aux rissoles, 286. 

glazed, 115. 

stuffed tomatoes, 309. 
stewed with peas, 176. 
stuffing, 84. 

trotters, curry sauce, 242. 
Lazagnes, k la Milanaise, 27. 

stewed, 92. 
Lettuce, k V Espagnole, 149. 
au veloute, 166. 
stewed, with gravy, 140. * 
stuffed, 137. 
Lemon custard, 13. 
ice, 147. 

jelly a la Sevillane, 242. 
Lenten dinners, Nos. 45, 68, 82, 8g. 
Lentils, puree, 80. 
stewed, 59. 
Liaison of eggs, 294. 
Lievre en gite (potted hare), 50. 
Lima-beans, maitre d' hotel, 264. 



Figures refer to number of Nlenui 



6o6 



INDEX. 



Lima-beans, 4 1' Espagnole, 2i. 
au veloute, 226. 
sautes, in butter, 249. 
Limes with rice, 356. 
L )bster a la Nantaise, 117. 
a la Portland, 213. 
baked a la Bechamel, 340. 
(bouchees of), 88. 
coUoped and baked, 330. 
(coquilles of), 63. 
curry, Indian style, 22g. 

American style, 277. 
cutlets a la Victoria, 317. 
deviled, 165. 
salad. Mayonnaise dressing, 253. 

plain dressing, 49. 
sauce marinade, 206. 

Mayonnaise, no. 
saute a la Bonnefoy, 298. 
stewed a la Gloucester, 38. 

au court-bouillon, 8. 
stuffed a la Narragansett, 295. 
turban a la Mazarin, 24. 

a la Suedoise, 220. 
Lobster-butter, 283. 

M. 

Macaroni a 1' Italienne, 364, 
a la Milanaise, 307. 
a la Napolilaine, 119. 
baked, 75. 
croquettes, 81. 
stewed, tomato sauce, 127. 
timbale of, 51. 
Macedoine a la gelee, 2. 
of vegetables, 331. 
salad, 91. 
vol-au-vent, 45. 
Mackerel a la Havraise, 293. 

a la maitre d' liotel, 130. 
boiled a la Bolonaise, 334. 

caper sauce, 123. 

gooseberry sauce, 148. 

sauce persillade, 141. 
broiled a la Flamande, 192. 
fillets a la Horly, 241. 

a r Indienne, 132. 

sauce ravigote, 256, 

baked, 327. 

with cream, 230. 

white-wine sauce, 365. 
pie, English style, 174. 
stuffed, anchovy sauce, 208. 
Mackerel (Spanish) a la Castillane, 224. 
a r estouffade, 152. 
h. la maitre d' hotel, 162. 
\ la Nassau, 157. 
i la Venitienne, 249. 
anchovy sauce, 196, 



Mackerel, Livoumaise sauce, 161. 

with cucumbers, 359. 

with fine herbs, 126. 
Madeleine cakes, 81. 
Marinade (pickling), 28. 

of calf's-brain, 54. 

of chicken, 31. 
Marmalade of apples, 309. 

of green-gages, 232. 

of peaches, 355. 

of verjuice, 190. 

fritters, 20. 
Marrow pudding a la Cambridge, 143. 

fritters, 146. 
Marrow toasts, 217. 
^layonnaise of chicken, 254. 

of lobster, 253. 

of salmon, 287. 
Mazarin cake, 62, 
Mecca cakes, 47. 
Meringued apples, 337. 
Meringues a la Chantilly, 3, 

glacees a la vanille, 315. 
panachees, 329. 

preparation, 337. 

with gooseberry cream, 150. 

with preserves, 283. 

with strawberry cream, 157. 
Minced cod a la Bechamel, 299. 

fillet of beef, 162. 

a la Fontenelle, 246. 
a la Richmond, 239. 
sauce poivrade, 232. 
Mince-pie, 333. 
Mirepoix, 49. 
Mirlitons de Rouen, 296. 
Miroton of apples, 109. 
Mousses {see ices). 
Mullet, broiled, sauce ravigote, 87. 

with melted butter, 81. 
Mussels a la poulette, 136. 

a la mariniere, in. 

California style, 158. 
Muscowites {see ices). 
Mushrooms a la Bordelaise, 145. 

a r Italienne, 275. 

a la Napolitaine, i5r. 

a la Piemontaise, 70. 

k\a. Proven9ale, 134. 

broiled, on toast, 203. 

(croutes with), 108. 

stuffed, 88. 
Musk-melon, 215. 
Mutton breast, sauce piquante, 351. 
sauce Robert, 339. 
with fresh beans, 163. 
with spinach, 61. 

carbonades a la Chartreuse, 66. 
sauce poivrade, 282. 



Figures refer to number of Menui 



INDEX. 



607 



Mutton chops i I'Avignonnaise, 186. 

a la bouchere, 148. 

a la Byron, 144. 

k la Choiseuil, 204. 

a la Clamart, 201. 

a la financiere, 365. 

a la Maintenon, 315. 

a la Mancelle, 78. 

a la Nivernaise, 273. 

a la Proven9ale, 305. 

a la Salvandy, 190, 

a la Soubise, 183. 

braised, small onions, 10. 

breaded, English style, 334. 
sauce piquante, 249. 

gherkin sauce, 293. 

(off saddle) a la Duxelles,65. 

tomato sauce, 265. 

with chicory, 196. 

with mushrooms, 257. 

with puree of beans, 15. 
of mushrooms, 156. 
cutlets k la Bardoux, 178. 
fillets a la minute, 25. 

a la Polonaise, 72. 

currant-jelly sauce, 21. 

port-wine sauce, 151. 

with peas, 185. 
(haricot of), 362. 
hash a la Portugaise, 173. 
haunch, English style, 274. 

Languedocienne, 172. 

demi-glaze sauce, 328. 

roasted, currant jelly, 36. 
kidneys, stewed, 144. 
leg a r Armenienne, 80. 

a la Bignon, 216. 

a la Bourguignotte, 312. 

a la Bretonne, 30. 

a la Durand, 5. 

a la Mexicaine, 146. 

a la mode, 358. 

a la Piemontaise, 246. 

a la Proven9ale, 46. 

a la Soissons, 212. 

a la Soubise, 323. 

boiled, caper sauce, 55. 

braised, a la paysanne, 269. 
glazed turnips, 301. 
puree of chestnuts, 76. 
with rissoles, 18. 

roasted, 346. 

k !a Rosny, 159. 
au chasseur, 12. 
(navarin of) with vegetables, 43. 
neck, English style, 142. 

roasted, currant jell)', 206. 
pie, English style, 342. 
pudding, Scotch style, 250, 



Mutton racks a la jardiniere, 139. 

roasted, currant jelly, 341. 

with mashed turnips, 299. 
saddle, English style, 44. 

a la Bretonne, 42. 
shoulders a la Croissy, 33. 

a la demi-glaze, 40. 

a la Messoise, 247. 

a la Soubise, 59. 
steaks a la Chateaubriand, 167, 

a la jardiniere, 62. 

sauce Colbert, 202. 
stewed with turnips, ]66. 
(Canadian) chops a la Soyer, 350. 
(South Down) chops a la Colbert, 

363- 

N. 

Napolitaine ice-cream, 280. 
Navarin, with vegetables, 43. 
Noques a la Badoise, 192. 

a la Frascati, 218. 
Nougat cake, 176. 
Nouille paste, 302. 

k r Allemande, 2. 

k la Badoise, 214. 

au Parmesan, 329. 

cake a la Franjaise, 247. 

croquettes, 20. 

O. 

Okra stewed, Spanish style, 256. 

Virginia style, 282. 
Omelet a la Celestine, 285. 
a la Clairmont, 323. 
a la Macedoine, 19. 
soufilee, fleur d' orange, 267. 

a la vanille, 208. 

au citron, 349. 

au marasquin, 216. 

aux pistaches, go. 
with kirschwasser, 122. 
with peaches, 82. 
with preserves, 348. 
with quinces, 365. 
with raspberries, 174. 
with rum, 289. 
Onions boiled au veloute, 319. 

glazed a 1' Espagnole, 338. 
(Bermuda) boiled, 106. 
(Portuguese), boiled, 352. 

roasted, 334. 
stuffed, 303. 
Orange a la DemidofI, 85. 
k la Portugaise, ig6. 
compot of, 60. 
croquembouche, 354, 
croutes aux, 321. 
flower custard, 28S. 



Figures refer to number of Menu. 



6o8 



INDEX. 



Orange jelly, igi. 

fritters, 307. 
ice, 42. 

jelly, French style, 121. 
in the peel, 234. 
(souffle a 1'), 334. 
Orchanet butter, 329. 
Oronges a la Bordelaise, 248. 
Oysters a la poulette, 294. 
a la Villeroi, 42. 
baked a la Duxelles, 336. 

in shells, 16. 
broiled, on toast, 248. 
croquettes, 12. 
fricassee, 70. 
fried, 246. 

a la Monroe, 78. 
patties, 286. 
scolloped, 301. 
stewed, 89. 
Oyster-plant, fried, 313. 

saute in butter, 337. 
stewed, white sauce, 309. 
a r Espagnole, 14. 



Pain d' abricots au marasquin, 319. 

de foies de volaille, 77. 

de peches au noyau, 342. 

de poires au cedrat, 304. 

de pommes k la Chantilly, 331. 
au kirsch, 12. 
Pampano a la maitre d' hotel, 267. 
Panada for soups, etc., 294. 
Pancakes a la Mancelle, 74. 

plain, 95. 

with chocolate, 40. 

with macaroons, 281. 

with peaches, 253. 

with preserves, 115. 
Paper-cases, 48. 
Parfait au cafe, 14. 
Parsley (to chop), 302. 

bunch, with aromatics, 327. 
Parsnips, boiled, 57. 

cakes, 85. 

fried, 321. 

stewed, 15. 
Partridges k X Andalouse, 323, 

a la Parisienne, 53. 

i la Periquex, 339. 

boiled, celery puree, 365. 
celery sauce, 283. 

chartreuse, 23. 

croquettes, 39. 

cutlets, Colbert sauce, 337. 
port-wine sauce, 282. 

roasted, bread-sauce, 249. 
larded, 2S9. 



Partridge roasted, with currant jelly, 260. 

salmi a la Montglas, 247. 

stuffed a la Chartraine, 355. 

with cabbage, 291. 
Paste for baba, 10. 

batter for fritters, etc, 5. 

brioche, 53. 

choux for cakes, 47. 

for meats, etc., 323. 

Compiegne, 227. 

cougloff, 113. 

English pudding, 171, 

feuilletage, 278. 

nouille, 302. 

pies (meat and fish), 22. 

Russian, 144. 

Savarin, 339. 

short, 351. 

tart, etc., 181. 

Viennese, 212. 
Patties (small anchovy), 82. 

(beef) a la Viennoise, 208. 
(oyster), 286. 
(sweetbread), 36. 
Paupiettes of cabbage, Milanaise, 215. 

of fillets of sole au vin blanc, 223. 
weak-fish, 347. 

of veal a la jardiniere, 233. 
puree of mushrooms, 163. 
Peaches a la Conde, 249. 

a la Richelieu, 263. 

a la Windsor, 29. 

Charlotte, 207. 

ice, 189. 

ice-cream, 217. 

fritters k la Viennoise, 212. 
glazed, 251. 

marmalade, 355. 

rissoles, 200. 

(Suedoise of), 194. 

tart a la Montreuil, 204. 
k la Portugaise, 209. 
meringued, 128. 

with rice, 8. 

and rice pudding, 206. 
Pears a la marquise, 104. 

a la Portugaise, 254. 

Charlotte, 48. 

fritters, 302, 

ice-cream, 238. 

pudding k la Bartlett, 231. 

(Suedoise of), 292. 

tarts k la Fran9aise, 18. 
au marasquin, 243. 

with rice, 272. 
Pepper (sweet) salad, 178, 

stuffed, 254. 
Perch 4 la Venitienne, 5. 

baked a 1' Italienne, 146. 



Figures refer to number of Menui 



INDEX. 



609 



Perch, boiled, oyster sauce, 113. 

broiled a la maitre d' hotel, 353. 
fried, English style, 72. 

in brown butter, 22. 
stewed a la bateliere, 338. 

a la Stanley, 54. 
water souchet (English), 19. 
Pheasant (English), roasted, 70. 
Pickerel a la maitre d' hotel, 284. 

fried, tomato sauce, 44. 
Pie, cold, cherry, French style, 166. 

duck a la Chartraine, 223. 

ham and chicken, 133. 

pork, English style, 55. 

quail au gastronome, 60. 

reed-bird a la Pithiviers, 243. 

salmon, French style, 62. 

snipe, 115. 

strawberry a la Parisienne, 153. 
hot, beef a la Londonderry, 161. 

chicken pot, 290. 

eel a la Cumberland, 89. 
a la Lorraine, 201, 

halibut, 26. 

lamb a la Windsor, 165. 

mackerel, English style, 174. 

mince, 333. 

Mutton, English style, 342. 

pigeon, English style, 157. 

rabbit, 22. 

sturgeon a la Neva, 144. 

terrapin, American style, 182. 
Pig (young) a la Rouennaise, 52. 
Pigeons a 1' Espagnole, 145. 
broiled, on toast, 103. 
chartreuse a la Rouennaise, 240. 
compote, with mushrooms, 64. 

with peas, 263. 
cutlets a la Marigny, 143. 

a la Provencale, 113. 

h. la Talleyrand, 230. 

au supreme, 69. 
pie, English style, 157. 
stewed a 1' Americaine, 93. 

ala bourgeoise, 169. 

a la rentiere, igr. 
stall-fed, roasted, 302. 
Pike a la Castillane, 35. 
a la Cavour, 28. 
a la Nifoise, 355. 
a la Normande, 67. 
baked, sauce marinade, 23. 
boiled, aurora sauce, 319. 

caper sauce, 103. 

horse-radish sauce, 52, 

with melted butter, 342. 
stewed a la Soyer, 328. 
stuffed, wine sauce, 120. 
Pillau of beef k la Navarraise, 254. 



Pilot-fish, fried, tartar sauce, 204. 
Pineapple a la Riclielieu, 138. 

cream a la Russe, 266. 

fritters, 127. 

ice, 273. 

jelly, 205. 

pudding, 229. 
Pistachio ice-cream, 63. 
Plover, croustades a la Provenjale, 116. 

(golden) broiled, 81. 

I'oasted, on toast, 276. 

(salmi of), 123. 

(tureen of), 118. 
Plum cake, 142. 

-pudding, 359. 

Madeira sauce, 64. 
with rum, i. 
Polenta, 209. 

quenelles, 247. 
Porgies, broiled, sauce ravigote, 194, 

fried, tartar sauce, 227, 
Pork chops, apple sauce, 51. 
sauce piquante, 85. 
sauce Robert, 6. 

cutlets, sauce poivrade, 100. 

leg, roasted, English style, 78. 

pie, English style, 55. 

steaks, gherkin sauce, 107. 

tenderloins, broiled, 17. 

and beans, 11. 
Pot-au-feu (French), 287. 
Potatoes a 1' Anglaise, 293. 

a la Bignon, 216. 

a la Bordelaise, 304, 

a la Braban9onne, 3. 

a la Bretonne, 125. 

k la Chateaubriand, 109, 

i la Colbert, 285. 

a la duchesse, 258. 

a la villageoise, 5. 

a la Hanovrienne, 324. 

a la HoUandaise, 4. 

a la Julienne, 99. 

a la Lyonnaise, 6. 

a la maitre d' hotel, 354. 

a la Navarraise, 7. 

a la Parisienne, 269. 

a la Reitz, 274. 

baked, 9. 

a la bourgeoise, 332. 
a la Vaudoise, 338. 
mashed, 15. 

a la Mantaise, 296. 

balls i la Rouennaise, 292. 

boiled, I. 

with melted butter, 10. 
(Bermuda), 103. 
and browned, il. 

border, 237. 



Figures refer to number ot IVIenUi 



6io 



INDEX. 



Potatoes, broiled, 355. 
cakes, 302. 
croquettes, 75. 

a la Bechamel, 347. 
croustades a la regente, 2. 
hashed a la maitre d' hotel, 13. 

with cream, 349. 
fried k la Provengale, 139. 

French style, 122. 

in quarters, 27. 

Long Branch, 315. 

puff, 87. 

Saratoga, 320. 
fritters, 33. 
mashed, 18. 

h. r Espagnole, 90. 

sautees, 25. 
quenelles, 306. 
salad, 132. 
sautees, 301. 
sliced, with cream, 21. 
soufflees, 323. 
(souffle of), 134. 
stewed, 81. 
stuffed, 339. 
timbale, 325. 
Poule au pot, 90. 
Prairie-hens, roasted, English style, 309. 

bread sauce, 266. 
Prawns, baked in shells, 124, 
(bouchees of), 97. 
(buisson of), 105. 
fricasseed a la Creole, 116. 
ProfiteroUes au chocolat, 76. 
Ptarmigan, roasted, Scotch style, 74. 

on toast, 67. 
Pudding i la diplomate, 145. 
4 la Humboldt, 45. 
a la Nesselrode, 357. 
apricot a la Nan9oise, 59. 
apple au sabayon, 92. 

with rice, 324. 
beef, English style, 171. 
blackberry, 184. 
bread and butter, 237. 
cabinet, 271. 

a r orange, 36. 

a la royale, 69. 
egg and peach, 240. 
jam-roily, 248. 
marrow, 143. 
paste, 171. 
peach and rice, 206. 
pear a la Bartlett, 231. 
plum, 359. 

Madeira sauce, 64. 

with rum, i. 
raspberry and currant, 178. 
rice au caramel, 106. 



Pudding Sultana au marasquin, 235. 

Yorkshire, 308. 
Puddingha (Grecian pudding), ir. 
Puree a la Croissy, 33. 

of beans, with cream, 47. 

of celery, 365. 

of chestnuts, 24. 

of cucumbers, 205. 

of fresh beans, 212. 

of green peas, 141. 

of mushrooms, 156. 

of sorrel, 267. 

of chicory, 204. 

of white beans, 15. 

{For other purees, see soups. ^ 
Pyramids {see ices). 

Q. 

Quails h. la cendre, 325. 
broiled, 312. 

croustades a la Champenoise, 331. 
pie au gastronome, 60. 
roasted, 277. 

currant sauce, 352. 

with fine crumbs, 43. 
salmi a 1' essence, 318. 
stewed with cabbage, 338. 

with rice, 336. 
Queen fritters. 255. 

with preserves, 274. 

a la Medicis, 262. 
Quenelles, force-meat, 294. 
of chicken, 126. 
of eggs, 283. 
of game, 365. 
of polenta, 247. 
of potatoes, 306. 
of semolina, 143. 
Quince jelly, 360. 

a la Conde, 71. 

tart a la Portugaise, 87. 

R. 

Rabbit, broiled, sauce ravigote, 16. 

in paper a 1' Italienne, 9. 

pie, 22. 

salad, 346. 

saute with fine herbs, 19. 

stewed a la poulette, 13. 
Burgundy style, 344. 
Raspberries and cream, 171. 
Raspberry and currant pudding, 1 78. 

ice-cream, 1S2. 

jelly a la Victoria, 180. 

omelet, 174. 
Raviolis a la Genoise, 324. 

a la Sarde, 204. 
Red beans a la Maconnaise, 94. 

puree aux croutons, 355. 



Figures refer to number of Menu. 



INDEX. 



6ii 



Red cabbage a la Flamande, 193. 
Red-fish a la Texienne, 40. 
Red lobster-butter, 283. 
Red snapper a la Beaufort, 14. 
Reed-birds on toast, 256. 

pie a la Pithiviers, 243. 
Rice a la Bayonnaise, 157. 

a la Creole, 8. 

a r Egyptienne, 219. 

a la Grecque, 332. 

a r imperatrice, 140, 

a la Turinoise, 211. 

i la Virginienne, 208. 

cake a la vanille, 268. 
aux raisins, 61. 

border a la Demidoff, 12. 
plain, 169. 

casserole a la Toulouse, 189. 

croquettes a la Piemontaise, 360, 
lemon sauce, 264. 
with currants, 291. 

fritters, 282. 

ice-cream, 70, 

pudding au caramel, 106. 

timbale a la Savoisienne, 363. 
small, a 1' Indienne, 229. 

and apple pudding, 92. 

and peach meringued, 258. 
Risot a la Napolitaine, 323. 

a la Piemontaise, I, 
Rissoles a la Frangipane, 144. 

a la Marie Stuart, 67. 

aux fruits, sauce abricot, 320. 

of beef, sauce Colbert, 181. 

of beef marrow, 37. 

of chicken, sauce supreme, 172. 

of peach marmalade, 200. 

of spinach, 286. 
Robins on toast, 307. 
Roman punch, 359. 
Rose-leaf jelly, 195. 
Rouennaise stuffing for ducks, 149, 
Russian paste, 144. 



Salad a la Dumas, 183. 
a la Grinod, loi. 
a la Macedoine, 91. 
a la paysanne, 64. 
a. la Russe, 268. 
a la Suedoise, 34. 
apple and cress, 53, 
artichoke, 18 r. 
asparagus, 106. 

a la Ni9oise, 154. 
bean and bacon, 184. 
beet and cabbage, 4. 

and doucette, 51. 
cabbage i la Savoyarde, 80. 



Salad (capon of garlic for), 359. 
cauliflower, 97. 

and onion, 108. 
celery, 92. 

sauce Mayonnaise, 322. 

curled in glass, 84. 

knobs, sauce remoulade, 85. 
chicory, 359. 

a la Gasconne, 37. 
cold slaw, 89. 
dandelion, 90. 
doucette, 8r. 
escarole, 103. 
game, 31. 

herring a la Bremoise, 68. 
lettuce a la comtoise, 320. 

plain, 98. 

a la Parisienne, 54. 

a la Sotteville, 358. 

French dressing, 274. 

with cream, 83. 

and minced harn, 158, 

and tomato, 109. 
lobster, plain dressing, 49. 
potato, 132. 
rabbit, 346. 

red cabbage a la Russe, 347. 
Romaine, 145. 
string-bean, 123. 
sweet pepper, 178. 
tomato, 186. 
vegetable a la Dieppoise, 167, 

a r Italienne, 321. 

a la Lyonnaise, 139. 
water-cress, 33. 

and pepper-grass, 1 16. 
wild chicory, 155. 
white bean, r02. 
white salsify-leaf, 328. 
Salmon a la regence, 300. 
a la Victoria, 345. 
baked, California style, 137. 

with scallops, 36. 
boiled, anchovy sauce, 266. 

nonpareil sauce, 185. 

oyster sauce, 73. 

prawn sauce, 121. 

sauce diplomate, 100. 

sauce Genevoise, 275. 

soy sauce, 20. 
broiled a la Bordelaise, 142. 

a la maitre d' hotel, 273. 
colloped a 1' Espagnole, 187. 

a la Nantaise, 202. 
coquilles a 1' Italienne, 198. 
croquettes, loi. 
cutlets a la Chevreuse, 193, 
dame a 1' Amiral, 325. 

a la Chambord, 66. 



Figures refer to number of Menu. 



6l2 



INDEX. 



Salmon 4 la Hollandaise, i. 

a la Mayonnaise, 287. 

au bleu (cold), 356. 

tartar sauce, 45. 
fillets a la Horly, 32. 

mussel sauce, 207. 
grenadins a la Venitienne, 179, 
hure a la Cambaceres, 39. 

a la Jean Bart, 308. 

a la Proven^ale, 170, 
pie, French style, 62. 
sliced, with cucumbers, 166. 
steak a la mariniere, 316. 

claret sauce, 175. 

tartar sauce, 7. 
Salmon-trout a la Genoise, 210, 
k la maitre d' hotel, 203. 
k la Richelieu, 147. 
crayfish sauce, 314. 
shrimp sauce, 329. 
with oyster croquettes, 58. 
Sauce i la minute, 25. 

a r orange for sweets, 36. 
Albert, 225. 
AUemande, 265. 
anchovy, 266. 
apple, 51. 
apricot, 34. 
aurora, 319. 
Avignonnaise, 186. 
Bahama, 217. 
Bearnaise, 258. 
Bechamel, 270, 
beurre noir, 290. 
bigarade, 345. 
Bohemian, 338. 
Bordelaise, 209. 

white, 142. 
Boston, 83. 
Bourguignotte, 312. 
bread, 249. 
Bressoise, 236. 
Bretonne, 310. 
brown-butter, 125. 
California, 238. 
caper, 103. 
celery, 268. 
chasseur, 7. 
Chateaubriand, 57. 
chilli, 244. 
chocolate, 40. 
clam, 245. 
Colbert, 272. 
court-bouillon, 285. 
cranberry, 271. 
crayfish, 314. 



cream, II. 
Creole, 116. 
currant-jelly, 275. 



Sauce, currant, 352. 
curry, 242. 
demi-glaze, 361. 
deviled, X09. 
diplomate, 13. 
duchesse, 180. 
Duxelles, 65. 
egg. 279. 

English pudding, 359. 
Espagnole, 262. 

or thick gravy, 351. 
essence of celerj', 42. 

of game, 318. 
estragon, 112. 
fermiere, 32. 
fine-herbs, 307. 
Flemish, 4. 
fleurette, 21. 
fruit for ice-creams, 238. 
game, 15. 
Genevoise, 275. 
gherkin, 107. 
giblet, 6. 
gooseberry, 148. 
gravy, thickened, 351. 
hachee, 335. 
hard, 5. 
Havraise, 293. 
Hessoise, 182. 
Hollandaise, 98. 
horse-radish, 52, 
Italienne, 284. 
Joinville, 283. 
Kirschwasser, 357. 
lemon, 264. 
Livournaise, i6x. 
lobster, 271, 
Madeira, 270. 

for pudding, 64. 
maitre d' hotel, 276. 
Maltaise, 210. 
marinade, 197. 
marrow, 248. 
Mayonnaise, 254. 
Medicis, 262. 
melted-butter, 259. 
mint, 77. 
Mirabeau, 122. 
mussel, 238. 
mustard, 341, 
Nantaise, 117. 
Napolitaine, 4. 
Nifoise, 154. 
nonpareil, 185. 
Normande, 313. 
onion, 340. 
orange, 75. 

for sweets, 36. 
oyster, 73. 



Figures refer to number of Menu. 



INDEX. 



613 



Sauce, oyster-crab, 57. 

Parisienne, 330. 

parsley, 156. 

pepper, 326. 

Perigueux, 72. 

persillade, 141. 

piquante, 351. 

plum, 47. 

poivrade, 314. 

Polonaise, 150. 

poor-man, 107. 

port-wine, 282. 

poulette, 261. 

prawn, 121. 

Proven cale, 305. 

ravigote, 256. 
cold, 91. 

remoulade, 85. 

Robert, 355. 

Romaine, 53. 

sabayon, 143. 

sage, 306. 

salmi, 27. 

scallop, 358. 

Sicilienne, 176. 

shallot, 207. 

shrimp, 339. 

Soubise, 337. 

soy, 20. 

Soyer, 328. 

Sultana, 304. 

supreme, 128. 

tartar, 83. 

Texienne, 40. 

tomato, 197. 

tortue, 73. 

vanilla, 241. 

veloute, 274. 

Venitienne, 252. 

verjuice, 177. 

vert-pre, 361, 

vinaigrette, 356, 

white, 10. 

white-wine, 255. 

Yorkshire, 233. 
Sauce-purees {see purSe). 
Savarin cake, 330. 
Savoy cake, 107. 
Scallops, baked in shell, 311. 

fried, 254. 
Sea-bass a la Buena- Vista, 25 1. 

au beurre noir, 290. 

au court-bouillon, 285. 

boiled, parsley sauce, 143. 
with melted butter, 259. 

broiled, 209. 

fried, tartar sauce, 177. 

in matelote, 183. 
Sea-kale, English style, 187. 



Semolina cake, 100. 

croquettes, 216. 
Shad au court-bouillon, 115. 

baked, with fine herbs, gg. 

with roes, go. 
boiled a la Hollandaise, 106. 

caper sauce, 64. 
broiled a la Clermont, 76. 
sauce Italienne, 85. 
with sorrel, 92. 
roasted, sauce ravigote, 102. 
(Savannah) boiled, 326. 
(Wilmington) boiled, 30. 
Shad-roes, maitre d' hotel, 109. 
baked, 129. 

brown-butter sauce, 125. 
fried, tomato sauce, 122. 
Sheep's-head a la Caroline, 188. 
a la Hollandaise, 258. 
a r Indienne, 281. 
a la Louisiannaise, 321, 
a la Mobile, 164. 
a la Georgienne, 2S8. 
Bahama sauce, 217. 
caper sauce, 151. 
mussel sauce, 238. 
parsley sauce, 173. 
broiled, anchovy butter, 186. 
Sheep-tongues a la Soubise, 337. 
baked a la Duxelles, 193. 
Sheep-trotters k la poulette, 199. 

stuffed a la Rouennaise, 215. 
Short-paste, 351. 

Skate-fish, with browned butter, 60. 
Smelts, baked a la Duxelles, 34. 
a la Mantoue, 2g2. 
broiled, 309. 
fried, English style, 260. 
with fine herbs, 307. 
tartar sauce, 83. 
tomato sauce, 343. 
Snipes (English) broiled, 95. 
in croustades, 121. 
pie, 115. 
roasted, 274. 
salmi, 106. 
(sand) with cress, 119. 
(yellow-legged) broiled, 152. 
roasted, 160. 
Snowbirds on toast, 88. 
Soft clams, fried in batter, 250. 

in crumbs, 17. 
Soft-shell crabs, Indian style, 169, 
broiled, 139. 
fried in crumbs, 264. 
plain, 154. 
Soft-shell turtle {see sotips), 203. 
Sole, broiled a la maitre d' hotel, 37. 
fillets a r Anglaise, 296. 



Figures refer to number of Menui 



6i4 



INDEX. 



Sole fillets, i la Dauphine, 2ii, 
a la Horly, 304. 
a r Italienne, 354. 
4 la Joinville, 283. 
a la marechale, 315. 
a la Normande, 313. 
4 la Trouville, 41. 
k la Venitienne, 252. 
au gratin, 262. 
hatelets a la Villeroi, 191. 
paupiettes au vin-blanc, 223. 
timbale, 108. 
turban, baked, 3. 
with oysters, 45. 
fried a la Colbert, 289. 
fritot a la Bretonne, 219. 
Sorrel, puree, 267. 

with soft eggs, 164, 
Souffle a r orange, 334. 
a la vanille, 257. 
au cafe, 211. 
au chocolat, 317. 
au Parmesan, 260. 
aux amandes, 38. 
aux fruits, 141. 
praline a la d' Artois, 362, 
of apricots i la Viennoise, 327. 
of potatoes, 134. 
of rice, 244. 
Soups, Broths, Garnishings : 
beef broth, 263. 
chicken broth, 310. 
consomme, 133. 
fish broth, 327. 
game broth, 329. 
lait d' amandes, 54. 
lamb broth, 209. 
mutton broth, 220, 
panada for soups, 294. 
pot-au-feu, 287. 
veal broth, 298. 
vegetable broth, 33. 
water souchet (English), 19. 
Garnishings : 

a la pluche, 153. 

4 la chiffonnade, I14. 

of agnolottis, 18. 

of cream custard, 231, 

of fish croquettes, 243, 

of poached eggs, 81. 

of raviolis, 324. 

of cabbage, 36. 

of timbales, Parisienne, 326. 

of quenelles of beef-meat, 216. 
of chicken, 294. 
of eggs, 283. 
of fish, 12. 
of polenta, 247. 
of semolina, 143. 



Soups a r Alsacienne, 145, 
a la Bagration, 5. 
a la bourgeoise, II. 
a la chanoinesse, 82. 
a la Dieppoise, 85. 
a la Faubonne, 93. 
4 la Fran9aise, 95. 
a la Nivernaise, 314. 
a la Palestine, 45. 
a la paysanne, 286, 
a la Solferino, 98. 
agnolotti a la Piemontaise, 18, 
au lait d' amandes, 54. 
au pain (bread), 287. 
barsch a la Polonaise, 207. 
beef a 1' Anglaise, 16. 

palate a la Parisienne, 165. 
English style, 206. 
bisque of clams, 215. 
of crabs, 348. 

Virginia style, 236. 
of crayfish, 292. 
of grouse au chasseur, 329. 
of lobster, 284. 

a la Nantaise, 142. 
of oysters, 267. 

a la Shrewsbury, 295. 
of partridge a la Dauphine, 9. 
a la signora, 358. 
a la Viennoise, 46, 
of pigeon a 1' hoteliere, 234. 
of plover a la Rossini, iii. 
bouillabaisse, 278. 
bouride a la Marseillaise, 257, 
brunoise, 259. 

with bread-crumbs, 302. 
Italian paste, 27. 
puree of lentils, 13. 
rice, 4. 

vermicelli, 86. 
cabbage a la Chambery, 216. 
a la Languedocienne, 36. 
a la rentiere, 2. 
k la Rouennaise, 129. 
with pork, 337. 
with rice, 344. 
(green) and potato, 148. 
calf's-foot, English style, 312. 

a la Dumas, 193. 
calf's-head a la Brighton, 237, 

a la duchesse, 199. 
calf's-tail a 1' Allemande, 37. 
chicken a la chiffonnade, 114. 
a la Kitchenner, 149. 
a la Malmaison, 196. 
k la Messinoise, 214. 
a la princesse, 189. 
k la Sontag, 53. 
a la St. George, 241. 



Figures refer to number of Menui 



INDEX. 



615 



Soups, chicken, English style, 216, 
with okra, 249. 
with rice, 277. 
with tonaato, 262. 
chicken-broth a la Britannia, 351. 
a la clievaliere, 31. 
a la Choiseuil, 123, 
a la Ni^oise, 163. 
a la Palestine, 310. 
a la Viennoise, 175. 
with barley, 340. 
with poached eggs, 81. 
clam, American style, 229. 

chowder, 180. 
cockie-leekie, 120. 
cod-fish chowder, 194. 
Colbert, with eggs, 266. 
consomme a 1' Andalouse, 357. 
a la Bourdaloue, 7. 
i la Brisse, 105. 
a la Careme, 133. 
i la Celestine, 338. 
4 la Chatelaine, 364. 
4 la Crecy, 169. 
ci la Cussy, 21. 
4 la Deslignac, 332. 
h. la d' Orleans, 322. 
a la d' Orsay, 213. 
a r imperiale, 182. 
k la MacDonald, 343, 
a la Magenta, 188. 
k la Medicis, 147. 
a la Montmorency, 112. 
a la Napolitaine, 365, 
a la Piemontaise, 34. 
i la Rachel, 336. 
a la Rivoli, 224. 
a la Roqueplan, 140. 
k la Sevigne, 28. 
i la Talma, 217. 
a la Xavier, 328. 
aux laitues, 119. 
aux profiteroUes, 14. 
aux quenelles, 126. 
with bread-crusts, go. 
with poached eggs, 258. 
cream custard au consomme, 231. 
of barley a la jardiniere, 24S. 
a la Joinville, 135. 
a la Viennoise, 311. 
of cauliflower, 174. 
of rice a la Buffon, 156. 
i la Cavour, 204. 
a la Medicis, 221, 
a la princesse, 132. 
a la St. Sever, 306. 
aux croutons, 355. 
with chervil, 115. 
of sorrel, 279. 



Soups, cream of sorrel a la Navarraise, 166. 
with rice, 109. 
of semoule, 87. 

with herbs, 118. 
of turnips a la Conde, 65. 
croiite-au-pot, 293. 
cucumber a la Beauvilliers, 158. 

and green-pea, 134. 
duck a la Hongroise, 202. 
eel, American style, 187. 
a la Hartford, 250. 
h. la St. Laurent, 341. 
fidelini a la royale, 233. 
fish a la Braban9onne, 138. 
broth a la bateliere, 26. 
a la Duclair, 124. 
a la Russe, 208. 
with quenelles, 327. 
Flemish, 318. 

flounder, American style, 334. 
French pot-au-feu, 287. 
frog a la Normande, 173. 
game a la Cor5oise, 41. 

a la Tyrolienne, 49. 
garbure a la Clermont, 152. 
a la Freneuse, 227. 
a r Italienne, 154. 
k la printaniere, 136, 
with cabbage, 8. 
with cucumbers, 172. 
giblet, English style, 300. 
French style, 281. 
with leeks, 335. 
green-pea 4 la duchesse, 317. 
a la Marly, 100. 
a la printaniere, 130. 
k la St. Cloud, 150. 
k la St. Germain, 162. 
with rice, 97. 
green-turtle, American style, 273. 

(clear), English style, 333. 
gumbo of chicken, 88. 

of crabs a la Creole, 260. 
of oysters, 299. 
hare, American style, 342. 
hodge-podge, 226. 
Italian paste, 275. 
Julienne, 255. 

a la Montpensier, 56. 
k la Russe, 211. 
au maigre, 33. 
and poached eggs, 316. 
lamb a la Piemontaise, 167. 
a la Winchester, 209. 
broth a la reine, 128. 
with barley, 121, 
lazagnes, 303. 
leek a la Picarde, 6. 
lettuce a 1' Amphitryon, 178, 



Figures refer to number of Menu. 



6i6 



INDEX. 



Soups, lemon, with eggs, 71. 

lobster, Indian style, 122. 

a la mariniere, 201, 
macaroni, 270. 

a la Calabraise, 139. 

a la Canine, 195. 

a la Toscane, 177. 

a la villageoise, 67, 

and tomato, 232. 
milk a la Monaco, 40. 
mock-turtle, 265. 

English style, 360. 

French style, 283. 
mullagatawny, 315. 
mussel, 131. 
mutton a la Cowley, 73. 

a la Grecque, 307. 

with barley, 256. 

broth 4 la Rouennaise, 205. 
a la Viennoise, 220. 
French style, 15. 
nouilles au consomme, 242. 

with tomato, 309. 
onion a la Plessy, 22. 

with cheese, 38. 

with eggs, 59. 

(small) a la chevreuse, 137. 
ox-cheek 4 la Nelson, 244. 
ox-tail, English style, 39. 

• French style, 291. 
oyster, 2S5. 

with okra, 271. 
panada au niaigre, 68. 

with broth, 57. 
pea a la Napier, 157. 

i la villageoise, 16S 

and brunoise, 346. 

and Julienne, 304. 

and vermicelli, 253. 

aux croutons, 269. 
perch, fillets, English style, 19. 
pickerel a la Malmesbury, 222. 
pigeon a la Fabert, 108. 

Belgian style, 245. 
pike a la Champlain, 243. 
pilaf au consomme, 51. 
potato, with leeks, 55. 
priatanier, 251. 

a la Parisienne, 326. 

a la Parmesane, 308. 

bi la royaile, 263. 

k la Victoria, 301. 

au vert-pre, iio. 

aux quenelles, 294. 

with herbs, 92. 

with poached eggs, 91. 
puchero, 356 
puree a la Colbert, 20. 

i la Conde, 349. 



Soups, puree, a la Crecy, 254. 

with rice, 305. 
a la Croissy, 230. 
a la Gallicienne, 179, 
a la Livonienne, 347. 
of asparagus, 102. 

h. la printaniere, 151. 

i la royale, 141. 
of barley, 80. 

of black-beans a la Puebla, 58. 
of cabbage a la Piemontaise, 155 
of carrots a 1' Allemande, 72. 

aux croutons, 17. 
of cauliflower, 323. 
of celery, 272. 

a r Espagnole, 325, 
of chestnuts a la Mancelle,33l. 
of chicory, 339. 
of chicken d la Bearnaise, 70. 

a la Jussienne, 35. 

h. la Milesienne, 84. 

h. la Perigord, 63. 

a la reine, 288. 

a la St. Mande, 185. 

with cream, 359. 
of cucumbers, 127. 

k la reine, 264. 
of duck a la Norfolk, 74. 
of fresh beans a la Soubi5e,l97, 

with rice, 190. 
of Jerusalem artichokes, 45. 
of leeks, 104. 
of lettuce, with peas, 223, 
of Lima beans, 252. 
of lentils, 345. 
of lobster, with rice, 352. 
of onions a la Bretonne, 78. 

k la Dieppoise, 12. 

a la Nantaise, 184. 

a la Nassau, 171. 
of peas, with rice, 25. 
of potatoes k la Faubonne, 3. 

a la Jackson, 320, 

a la Parmentier, 69. 

k la Turenne, 113. 

with chervil, 94. 

with cream, 160. 
of pumpkin, 30. 
of sorrel, 99. 
of spinach, 107. 
of string-beans, 144. 

a la Savart, 164. 
of turnips k \' Espagnole, 10. 
k la Savoisienne, 239. 
with cream, 23. 
with sago, 218. 
of water-cress, 170. 
of white-beans, 361. 
rabbit k la Polonaise, 76. 



Figures refer to number of MenUi 



INDEX. 



617 



Soups, ravioli a la Genoise, 324. 
rice a la Flamande, 212. 

a r Indienne, 79. 

k la Maintenon, 42. 

k la paysanne, loi. 

^ la sultane, 238. 

a la Turque, 296. 

and asparagus, 1 1 7. 

and curry, 52. 

and Julienne, 48. 

and lemon, 198. 

and tapioca, 363. 

and tomato, 289. 

with broth, 263. 

with milk, 61. 
risot a la Piemontaise, I. 
riz au lait d' amandes,'96, 
rofol a la Varsovienne, 176. 
sago a la Tessinoise, 313. 

au consomme, 274. 

and tomato, 235. 
salep, with broth, 60. 
Scotch broth, 319. 
semolina a la Piemontaise, 143. 

a la Venitienne, 321. 

au consomme, 44. 
sheep's-tail a 1' Armenienne, 181. 
soft-clam, 47. 
soft-shell turtle, 203. 
sorrel and veal, 298. 

with cream, 261. 

with rice, 290. 
spaghetti a la Sicilienne, 125. 

a la Turinoise, 247. 

au Parmesan, 354. 

and tomato, 43. 
stewed oysters, 89. 

Boston style, 362. 
sturgeon k la Suedoise, 159. 
sweetbread a la Pontoise, 200. 
tapioca a la Montglas, 24. 

au consomme, 282. 

and tomato, 330. 

witli puree Crecy, 29, 

with rice, 363. 
terrapin, 2S0. 

Virginia style, 161. 
tomato, 276. 
tschi a la Russe, 183. 
turkey-wing, New York style, 350. 
turnip a la Freneuse, 32. 
veal a 1' Indienne, 353. 

k la Poissy, 106. 

and barley, 66. 

and rice, English style, 228. 

and tomato, 246. 

broth a la dauphine, 116. 

with celery, 62. 
vegetable k la bourgeoise, 50. 



Soups, vegetable a la Hollandaise, 146. 

a la Polonaise, 192. 

farmer's style, 75. 
vegetable-roots a 1' Italienne, 64. 
vermicelli a la Grecque, 191. 

a la Navarraise, 186. 

4 la pluche, 153. 

k la Windsor, 297. 

au maigre, 103. 

and sorrel, 240. 

and tomato, 225. 

with broth, 83. 

with milk, 219. 
water-souchet (English), 19. 
with herbs, 92, 
Sour beet-juice, 207. 
Sour-krout, with bacon, 57. 
Spaghetti a la Napolitaine, 325. 

baked, 358, 
Spanish mackerel {see mackerel^. 
Spinach a la Bechamel, 153. 
au veloute, 136. 
English style, 125, 
mashed, 61. 

with sugar, 68, 
with poached eggs, 159. 
or vegetable-green, 107. 
Squab a la crapaudine, 269, 
broiled, on toast, 61. 
cutlets, sauce Colbert, 212. 

shallot sauce, 287, 
roasted a la Gallicienne, 73. 

a la Prince Albert, 24I, 

with cress, 255, 

with peas, 173. 
tomato sauce, 94. 
(wild), on toast, 66. 
Squash, mashed, 317. 
St, Honore cake, 151. 
a r ananas, 169. 
k V orange, 228, 
au chocolat, 250, 
with strawberries, 162. 
Strawberries a la Maconnaise, 135. 
cake, English style, 167, 
compote, iced, 161. 
croiites (aux fraises), 139. 
fritters, 137. 
ice-cream, 126. 
jelly a la Victoria, 160, 
pie a la Parisienne, 153. 
short-cake {see blackberry), 183. 
tart, 156. 
with cream, 123, 
String-beans a la Bretonne, 131, 
a la Lyonnaise, 151. 
a la maitre d' hotel, 120, 
k la poulette, 195. 
a la Very, 169. 



Figures refer to number of Menui 



6i8 



INDEX. 



String-beans, English style, i6o. 

sautes, 288. 
Striped bass a 1' Americaine, 348. 
a la Conti, 364. 
a la dauphine, 297. 
a la maitve d' hotel, 242. 
a la Victoria, 19. 
au cardinal, 305. 
au commodore, 332. 
au court-bouillon, 360, 
boiled a la HoUandaise, 310. 

caper sauce, 261. 
fillets a la Bordelaise, 71. 
a la Manhattan, 212. 
in paper, 178. 
grenadins, with mussels, 118. 
with milts (soft roes), 86. 
Stuffing for ducks, 149. 
for fish, 50. 
for poultry, 33. 

chestnuts, 333. 
German, 344. 
Sturgeon alaNormande, 153. 
au court-bouillon, 127. 
fricandeau, with sorrel, 176. 
pie a la Neva, 144. 
roasted, sauce vert-pre, 134. 
steak a la Romaine, 225. 
Succotash, 261. 

Sucking-pig a la Rouennaise, 52. 
Suedoise of apples, 15. 
of peaches, 194. 
of pears, 292. 
Sultana pudding au marasquin, 235. 
Surprise cakes a la regente, 218. 
Sweetbread (see veal). 
Sweet potatoes a la Richmond, 95. 
baked, 344. 
boiled, 220. 
broiled, 8. 
fried, 29S. 
sautees, 311. 
Virginia style, 317. 
Swiss tart, 199. 

T. 

Tagliarini a 1' Italienne, 121. 
Talmouse cakes, 24. 
Tart paste, 181. 

apricot, French style, 340. 

apple a la Jersey, 236. 
a la Saxon ne, 246. 
with jelly, 2S6. 

blackberry, 181. 

cherry, with rice, 179. 

currant, 172. 

gooseberry, 159. 

grape a la Fontainebleau, 225. 

green-gage, with rice, 221. 



Tart paste, peach a la Montreuil, 204. 
a la Portugaise, 209. 
meringued, 128. 
with rice, 8. 
pear a la Franjaise, 18. 
au marasquin, 243. 
quinces a la Portugaise, 87. 
strawberry, 156. 
Swiss, 199. 
vanilla, 80. 
Tea custard, 223. 

Terrapin pie, American style, 182. 
stewed, Maryland style, 272. 
New York style, 302. 
Terrine de foies gras a la gelee, 63 
Timbale of apples, 54. 

of chestnuts a la vanille, 66. 
of chicken k la Toulouse, 245. 
of fillets of sole, 108. 
of macaroni a la Milanaise, 104. 
of potatoes, 325. 
of rice a la Savoisenne, 363. 
of sweetbread a la Parisienne, 354. 
of turkey-livers a la Vefour, 335. 
(small) a 1' Ecossaise, 138. 
a r Indienne, 229. 
a la Venitienne, 41. 
k la Turinoise, 140. 
of polenta, 202. 
Tomatoes, baked, 297. 
broiled, 277. 
puree, 197. 
salad, 254. 
stewed, 284. 
stuffed, 309. 

k la Carolina, 280. 
k V Espagnole, 206. 
a la Florentine, 155. 
a la Provencale, 141. 
a la Sicilienne, 148. 
Tournedos of beef a la chasseur, 58. 
a la Colbert, 228. 
sauce poivrade, 102. 
Tourte a la frangipane, 347. 
a la moelle, 152. 
au verjus, 190. 
aux prunes, 25. 
of green gages, 232. 
of peaches, 197. 
of pineapple marmalade, 177. 
Trifle a la Victoria, 239. 
Tunny a la St. Augustin, 232. 

steak, sauce Robert, 239. 
Turban of fillets of sole, baked, 3. 
with oysters, 45. 
of lobster a la Mazarin, 24. 
a la Suedoise, 220. 
Turbot, English, a la HoUandaise, 56. 
Turkey a la Reyniere, 39. 



Figures refer to number of WlenUt 



INDEX. 



6io 



Turkey a la Toulouse, 29. 

boiled, celery sauce, 268. 

oyster sauce, 350. 

parsley sauce, 281. 
boned a la gelee, 362. 
braised a la Godard, 357. 
roasted a la St. James, 342. 

cranberry jelly, 305. 
sauce, 271. 

giblet sauce, 6. 
stuffed, 317. 

with chestnuts, 330. 

with oysters, 339. 
giblets a la chipolaia, 58. 

with turnips, 334. 
livers (timbale of) a la Vefour, 335. 
wings, puree of chestnuts, 24. 
Tureen of plover, 118. 
Turnips a la poulette, 157. 
au veloute, 55. 
boiled, 274. 

glazed a 1' Espagnole, 58. 
puree, 328. 

stewed, with gravy, 152. 
Turtle, green, 273. 

soft shell, 203. 
terrapin, 272. 



Vanilla custard, 276. 
ice-cream, 91. 
tart, 80. 
Veal, blanquette, 296. 

breast a 1' Allemande, 64, 

a la bourgeoise, 52. 

a la Portugaise, 158. 

roasted, 239. 

stuffed, 314. 
chops a la demi-glaze, 122. 

a la Dreux, 96. 

a r ecarlate, 116. 

i r Italienne, 284. 

a la maitre d' hotel, 93. 

in belle-vue, 76. 

German style, 213. 

Madeira sauce, 141. 

sautees, with fine herbs, 358. 
collops a la Savoisienne, 223. 

with asparagus, II3. 
curry, wiih rice, 248. 
cutlets a la Bordelaise, 159. 

a la Castillane, 181. 

a la Milanaise, 277. 

a la Pajarski, 199. 

a la Zingara, 298. 

breaded, English style, 195. 
with chicory, 252. 
with spinach, 320. 

in paper, 120. 



Veal cutlets, sauce piquante, 313. 

with cucumber puree, 205. 

with ham, 177. 

with string-beans, 208. 
fillet a la Milanaise, 227. 

roasted, g. 
fricandeau a la regence, 130. 

with chicory, 204. 

with peas, 255. 

with sorrel, 267. 
grenadins a la fermiere, 216. 

tomato sauce, 335. 

with chicory, 348. 

with peas, 135. 
gristles au veloute, 79. 

broiled, sauce piquante, 184. 

in marinade, 197. 

with mushrooms. III. 
kidney, roasted, 86. 

stewed a la Demidoff, 174. 
loin a la jardiniere, 7. 

a la Lithuanienne, 70. 

a la Macedoine, 352. 

a la Montglas, 306. 

a la Provemjale, 193. 

roasted, 291. 

German style, 344. 

with cream, 32. 

with lettuce, 266. 
noix A la Bechamel, 18S. 

a la gendarme, 99. 

a la Lyonnaise, 67. 

a la Nivernaise, 25. 

a la Sarde, 228. 

a la Trianon, 37. 

roasted a la demi-glaze, 361. 

with cucumbers, 262. 
paupiettes a la jardiniere, 233. 

puree of mushrooms, 163. 
rack, roasted, 125. 

a la Very, 200. 
(roll of), k la Bechamel, 322. 
round, English style, 329. 
rump, roasted, 23. 
saute a la Marengo, 138. 
steaks a la Genoise, 244. 
stewed with green peas, 103. 
sweetbreads a 1' Espagnole, 48. 

a la financiere, 304. 

a r Italienne, 123. 

a la Matignon, 144. 

a la Toulouse, 343. 

a la Villeroi, 293. 

baked, with mushrooms, 235. 

broiled, sauce Colbert, 162. 

croquettes a la Duxelles, 151. 

fried, tomato sauce, 166. 

larded a la Milanaise, 150. 

small patties, 36. 



Figures refer to number of Menu, 



620 



INDEX. 



Veal sweetbread, timbale a la Parisienne, 

354- 

vol-au-vent, 278. 
with green peas, 272. 
Vegetable chartreuse, 100. 
-green, 107. 
salad (see salads). 
Venison chops, sauce poivrade, 314. 
with fine herbs, 2. 
(civet of), 347. 
fillets, sauce piquante, 18. 
haunch, game sauce, 296. 
leg a la Richmond, 24. 

larded, pepper sauce, 326. 
loin, currant-jelly sauce, 290. 
round k la St. Hubert, 353. 
saddle, roasted, 3. 
steaks, with olives, 8. 
salmi a la Sultana, 304. 
Verjuice marmalade, 190. 
Vermicelli cake a la vanille, 241. 
Viennese paste, 212. 
Vol-au-vent a la financiere, 359. 
a la Macedoine, 45, 
i la Nesle, 71. 
of egg, cream sauce, 68. 
of sweetbread, 278. 

W. 
Water-melon, 222. 
Weak-fish, baked, 168. 

fillets a la Havraise, 214. 



Weak-fish fillets a la Horly, igo. 
in cases, 48. 

fried, sauce Nifoise, 181. 
tomato sauce, 282. 

(paupiettes of), 347. 
Whipt cream a la Chantilly, 77, 
Whitebait a la Blackford, 231. 
White beans k 1' Espagnole, 42. 

a la maitre d' hotel, 6. 

puree, with cream, 47. 

salad, 102. 
White-fish k la maitre d' hotel, 276. 

baked, with fine herbs, 337. 

broiled, tartar sauce, 306. 
with sorrel, 291. 

sauce diplomate, 13. 
Wild duck (salmi of), 27. 
Windsor beans a la Bechamel, 205. 

a la Westphalienne, 191. 

English style, 186. 
Woodcock a la Rouennaise, 324. 

au gastronome, 203. 

broiled, with cress, 188. 

with trail on toast, 259, 

roasted a la Grimod, 185. 
on toast, 267. 

salmi au chasseur, 189. 
with mushrooms, 284. 



Yorkshire pudding, 308. 



Figures refer to number of Menu. 



